How are aesthetics and ethics related to the practical realities of the global fashion industry? Both have played an important role in academic fashion studies to this point, but they are most often discussed in the context of abstract phenomena such as modernity and capitalism, or identity issues such as sexuality, class and gender. The essays in this volume strive instead to show how the realities of the global fashion industry have important and pertinent aesthetic and ethical consequences. This collection provides critical and philosophical analysis of the interplay of aesthetics and ethics within the global fashion industry. Characterized by an increasingly fast spinning production, the industry is highly exploitative in terms of environment and labor force: underpaid textile workers, retailers working under brutal competition from the mass-merchandise discounters, young designers, seamstresses and curators often working for free, and a vast body of aspiring models. In addition, fashion-related aesthetic ideals are becoming more influential than ever in directing consumers in their social and personal identification processes and bodily practices with sometimes fatal consequences. Covering a wide range of subjects such as fashion's highly problematic production and consumption practices, the possibility of producing and consuming fashion ethically, fashion's intimate connection with nature and technology, Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics highlights the powerful aesthetical presence of fashion in relation to its ethical premises and often problematic outcomes.

One of the most important shoe designers of the mid- to late twentieth century, Arsho Baghsarian spent more than four decades working behind the scenes for prestigious companies with men's names on the label, including Christian Dior, Andrew Geller, I. Miller, and Stuart Weitzman, as well as Shoe Biz. Her creative genius is illustrated in this photographic collection of full-page sketches, prototypes, and production pairs that she donated to the Fashion Institute of Technology. Known for her sculptural heels and the use of exotic materials such as snakeskin, crystal, and Lucite, Baghsarian's extraordinary journey spans from a childhood in Turkey to prolific partnerships with major American shoe labels and the international factories that produced her designs. Connoisseurs of high-fashion footwear will be fascinated by the story of Baghsarian's pioneering career and inspirations, which ranged from Mexican art and the Philippine jungle to the passing of time.

More Dress Pattern Designing covers advanced cutting, lingerie, tailoring and children's patterns. This volume expands the basic course of Natalie Bray's Dress Pattern Designing and shows the application of the basic principles and methods to more advanced styles as well as to specialised cutting.

Part 1 is devoted to a thorough examination of the princess cut, the construction and special problems of the kimono, the raglan, drop-shoulder and other elaborate sleeves and armholes, and a variety of draped styles.

Part 2 shows the application of these methods to several branches of specialist cutting: lingerie cutting, tailored and sportswear garments and patterns for children of different ages.

This edition includes a Fashion Supplement which provides more information on the cutting of trouser blocks with subsequent various styling and details on trouser fastenings, turn-ups and other features. A jumpsuit block is provided with suggestions for development. The essential subject of grading is also set out clearly and concisely

"A powerful expose of Parisian haute couture" - Book of the Week, Times Higher Education Fashion is one of the most powerful industries in the world, accounting for 6% of global consumption and growing steadily. Since the 1980s and the birth of the neoliberal economy, it has emerged as the glittering face of capitalism, bringing together prestige, power and beauty and occupying a central place in media and consumer fantasies. Yet the fashion industry, which claims to offer highly desirable job opportunities, relies significantly on job instability, not just in outsourced garment production but at the very heart of its creative production of luxury. Based on an in-depth investigation involving stylists, models, designers, hairdressers, make-up artists, photographers and interns, anthropologist Giulia Mensitieri goes behind fashion's glamorous facade to explore the lived realities of working in the industry. This challenging book lays bare the working conditions of 'the most beautiful job in the world,' showing that exploitation isn't confined to sweatshops abroad or sexual harassment of models, but exists at the very heart of the powerful symbolic and economic centre of fashion.

The BBC2 primetime series, The Great British Sewing Bee, is set to return to the nation's screens this year. The companion book to the sixth series of this flagship BBC2 show, The Great British Sewing Bee: Sustainable Style accompanies sewers at all levels on their creative journey to reduce, reuse and recycle - ultimately creating their own considered closet. Starting with the essentials, sewers will learn how to maintain and care for their sewing machine, find out the secrets to using an overlocker (and what to do if you don't have one) and the key to pattern matching. With a guide that demystifies the fitting process, and with expert sewing tips on making alterations, you'll be able to choose from 27 projects, for both women and men, that will ease you into the world of sustainable sewing. For burgeoning dressmakers, this book showcases a vast array of sustainable and natural fabrics, reveals how to breathe life into old garments and entices the would-be sewer to dress handmade. Interspersed with sustainable tips, from advice on keeping an eco-friendly sewing space and how to better care for your garments, to guidance on recycling old clothes, using up fabric scraps and making repairs, this book is an indispensable reference to a more considered approach to sewing, that will encourage you to create long-lasting projects to cherish. With womenswear sizes ranging from 8 to 22 and menswear sizes ranging from XS to XL, along with five full-size pattern sheets, expert sewers Caroline Akselson and Alexandra Bruce cover everything you need to build your sewing repertoire and grow in confidence as you sew yourself sustainable.

Through ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's (R), and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers. These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption. Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3e

Pays homage to 'the Chelsea Set', a bohemian, progressive clique that would change the course of sixties contemporary design, with a focus on Mary Quant and Terence Conran. Narrates the history of an era through a meld of biography, fashion photography and vintage ads. Informative, attractive, stylish - the perfect gift for someone with an eye for fashion. Transporting you back to London at the height of the Swinging Sixties, this book provides vital context for two of the biggest and boldest names in 'Pop' fashion: Mary Quant, alleged mother of the miniskirt, and Terence Conran, the entrepreneur behind the new wave of 'lifestyle' stores. Friends, associates and allies in design, Quant and Conran stood at the head of an informal but influential bohemian group who steered the rudder of style during the Pop era. 'The Chelsea Set' resist definition; there was no comprehensive members list. Conran/Quant: Swinging London - A Lifestyle Revolution explores the contributions of designers and artists from Laura and Bernard Ashley to Eduardo Paolozzi, Nigen Henderson and Alexander Plunket Greene, all of whom were essential generators of Sixties Style.

Chinese clothing has undergone continuous transformations throughout history, providing a reflection of the culture in place at any given time. A wealth of archaeological findings coupled with ancient mythology, poetry and songs enable us to see the development of distinctive Chinese fashions through the ages. This illustrated introductory survey takes the reader through traditional Chinese clothing, ornamentation and ceremonial wear, discusses the importance of silk and the diverse costumes of China's ethnic groups before considering modern trends and China's place in the fashion world today.

This volume brings together a stunning collection of contemporary sculpture and installation art made for the world at large. The featured artists have reached new heights of creativity and ingenuity, resulting in pieces that are exemplary expressions of culture and place. These projects seek not only to represent the societies around them, but also to engage them through interactive features and designs that are made to be climbed, walked through, sat on and programmed. Public Art is an essential resource for all those interested in art created for the community. Highlights include LAVA's Digital Origami Emergency Shelter, the Eden Project's biomes, which form the largest plant enclosure in the world, Aether & Hemera's Voyage, a display of three hundred paper boats with interactive LED lights, and Tonkin Lui's symbol of hope for renewable energy, Future Flower, which uses small wind turbines to power its lights.

This comprehensive men's patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each step of the patternmaking process. Noting the subtle difference between patternmaking for men versus women, Kim and Kim provide readers with a complete understanding of the male anatomy, how to take measurements and fitting techniques. Patternmaking for Menswear has a unique modular organization, moving from basic sloper development to detailing slim-fit versus classic-fit garments with design details grouped together to allow readers to combine them to create unlimited design variations. With many fashion-forward and on-trend patterns, this book is an indispensible resource for creating modern and professional-looking menswear designs.

Australian Fashion Unstitched provides a compelling and authoritative survey of the myriad influences and attributes of Australian fashion over the last sixty years. This post-war period saw Australia's fashion industry come of age. The word couturier became part of the Australian lexicon and glamorous Paris catwalk shows graced our shores, showcasing overseas styling to large audiences in our major cities. Displaying pride in our nationhood and paying tribute to our heritage, our young and emerging designers, in turn, embarked upon a long, sometimes arduous journey to offer Australian fashion to the world. Unique indigenous textile design, cutting-edge swimwear, and fresh interpretations of global trends infiltrated the international marketplace, sustaining and bolstering the trademark of Australian design. Australian Fashion Unstitched narrates this fascinating story through the eyes of the designers themselves, as well as the journalists, academics, fashion photographers and museum curators who represent this vibrant industry.

Despite its limited number of inhabitants and rather small surface, the Belgian province of Limburg has a great number of designers with an international reputation. Based on the 10 principles of good design by Dieter Rams this book discovers the roots of Limburg's top design of the last 25 years. With famous names such as Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, Bram Boo, Dieter Bikkembergs and Pieter Stockmans but also unknown or almost invisible design. With contributions by Jesse Brouns, Veerle Windels, Hettie Judah, Virginia Tassinari, Nik Baerten. Cultural platform Design supports and promotes designers and design made in Limburg. In collaboration with different partners they provide inspiring thinking patterns about design and create a dynamic climate for design in Flanders.

A unique monograph of over 50 collections created by the fashion designer Marc Jacobs in the past 25 years and illustrated by Grace Coddington

In 2016, internationally acclaimed designer Marc Jacobs commissioned his friend and talented illustrator Grace Coddington to select and draw her personal selection from his collections dating back to 1992, the year he presented his now-infamous grunge-inspired collection. Sofia Coppola contributes an introduction and the illustrations are punctuated with Jacobs's written commentary about the collections. Personal and insightful, this is the first look back on Jacobs's groundbreaking career.

With The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric and Form: Contouring, Structure, Textile Designs Focusing on Concepts: Adaptation, Reduction, Zero Waste Online resources include a downloadable pattern block, which is available in US sizes 4-18. www.bloomsburyonlineresources.com/fashion-design-toolkit

Glamour is one of the most tantalizing and bewitching aspects of contemporary culture - but also one of the most elusive. The aura of celebrity, the style of the fashion world, the vanity of the rich and beautiful, and the publicity-driven rites of cafe society are all imbued with its irresistible magnetism. But what exactly is glamour? Where does it come from? How old is it? And can anyone quite capture its magic? Stephen Gundle answers all these questions and more in this first ever history of the phenomenon, from Paris in the tumultuous final decades of the eighteenth century through to Hollywood, New York, and Monte Carlo in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, from Napoleon to Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe, from Beau Brummell to Gianni Versace. Throughout, the book captures the excitement and sex appeal of glamour while exposing its mechanisms and exploring its sleazy and sometimes tragic underside. As Gundle shows, while glamour is exciting and magnetic, its promise is ultimately an illusion that can only ever be partially fulfilled.

Fashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain - separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked - this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fashion scholars to consider how global and local networks of dress dissemination converged to shape fashionable dress in Britain, and how British methods and aesthetics spread outwards across the world. From the drawing rooms of 19th-century London, to the verandas of 19th-century Australia, contributors to Disseminating Dress develop narratives of commodity and knowledge exchange to consider how fashion circulated.

When she was 16, Tala Raassi went to a party. She talked to boys, and wore a mini-skirt. She was punished with 40 lashes and five days in jail. Growing up in Tehran, Tala learnt to use fashion as a getaway whenever she suffered from the restrictions of her society. Labeled a rebel with a propensity to break the rules, she quickly came to realise being hungry for freedom in Iran was a recipe for disaster. Tala's lashes served as a stark warning to her - she needed to escape. Moving to the USA, she was able to develop her own clothing label to massive success. But the cut-throat world of Western fashion wasn't exactly how she had imagined it. She witnessed first-hand the ups and downs of hard work, hard decisions, and hard truths. Fashion Is Freedom is an inspiring true story of how courage, a dream, and some needle and thread can change a life forever...

The Watch is the most popular book on vintage and contemporary mechanical watches, appealing to both beginners and experts. In the decade since it was published, the international audience of watch lovers and watch collectors has grown exponentially. It's time for The Watch, Thoroughly Revised. For this new edition, the original author, Gene Stone, is joined by Stephen Pulvirent of Hodinkee.com. Together, they have thoroughly revamped the book to reflect the current state of the watch world, with the addition of new brands, new models, and more focused and nuanced coverage of the traditional brand leaders, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, and TAG Heuer.

Dress is everywhere imbued with symbols that reflect different meanings in different contexts. This compelling book convincingly demonstrates how clothing is analogous to a working language and is similarly underpinned by deeper meanings and philosophies.From tattoos and mini-skirts, to skin decoration, makeup and hair, Calefato unpicks the multiple functions of modern dress. Exploring intriguing commonalities - for example, between tattooed Egyptian mummies of 2000 BC and modern subcultural styles - Calefato considers the psychological, cultural, spiritual and symbolic significances at play in what she aptly labels 'body cartography'. What we wear is a vehicle for the (often contentious) expression of politics, gender and identity, placing clothing at the root of a complex set of messages, many of which are paradoxical. Clothing may, for example, liberate through the pleasures of masquerade and at the same time 'cage' or control the body. The Clothed Body shows how semiotics can provide a convincing template for understanding dress in a wide range of contexts and will be essential reading for anyone interested in the meaning of what we wear.