"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement The Enlightenment (1650-1800) was the Golden Age of hair. Hair dominated fashion as never before or since, with more men and women than ever donning elaborate wigs and hairdos. Such unprecedentedly extravagant styling naturally increased the demand for the services of professional hairdressers, whose numbers grew apace throughout the period. They, in turn, created a new range of hair-care products and a new literature of hair-care advice, ranging from hairstyles to hygiene, thus enlarging the market and further stimulating consumption. A Cultural History of Hair in the Enlightenment offers a record of their marketing success, mindful that the ultimate product of this culture of consumption was the consumer. Literary and visual arts celebrated the ambitious tetes and coifs of the period, but they also lampooned and caricatured the most fashionable in society. By exploring paintings, prints, plays, poems, novels, treatises, and advice manuals, the contributors to this volume show how hair in this period expanded beyond the fashionable and the superstitious, and became newly understood as material, inspiring empirical research and powering applications such as in the woolen goods industry. The essays in this volume-covering Religion and Ritualized Belief, Self and Society, Fashion and Adornment, Production and Practice, Health and Hygiene, Gender and Sexuality, Race and Ethnicity, Class and Social Status, and Cultural Representations-explore hair's many meanings and its importance during the Enlightenment period.

"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement Over the last century, there has been a revolution in self-presentation and social attitudes towards hair. Developments in mass manufacturing, advances in chemical science and new understandings of bodies and minds have been embraced by new kinds of hairdressers and their clientele and embodied in styles that reflect shifting ideals of what it is to be and to look modern. The emergence of the ladies hairdressing salon, the rise of the celebrity stylist, the impact of Hollywood, an expanding mass media, and a new synergy between fashions in clothing and hairstyles have rippled out globally. Fashions in hair styles and their representation have taken on new meanings as a way of resisting dominant social structures, experimenting with social taboos, and expressing a modern sense of self. From the 1920s bob to the punk cut, hair has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources, and illustrated with 75 images, A Cultural History of Hair in the Modern Age presents essays that explore how politics, science, religion, fashion, beauty, the visual arts, and popular culture have reshaped modern hair and its significance as an agent of social change.

This is your invitation to the front row. Spanning over seven decades and 300 shows, this beautiful book tells the story of the high fashion catwalk. Through this inspirational collection of fashion show invites and tales from fashion week, curator and fashion writer Iain R Webb opens a window into the world's most exclusive fashion houses. Whether it's dreamy romance at Givenchy, cutting-edge modernity at Alexander McQueen, floral drama at Valentino, vintage-inspired fun at Kenzo or heartfelt emotion at Yves Saint Laurent's final haute couture show, the unique themes and styles that have graced the runway in the past 50 years are gloriously curated and described in The Fashion Show. From understated presentation to melodramatic performance, this stylish archive is your passport to the international fashion collections.

From the award-winning costume designer of Amazon Prime Video's The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, a collection of the show's costumes, with never-before-seen photography, sketches, production stills, and more Amazon Prime Video's Emmy- and Golden Globe-winning series The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel centers on Miriam "Midge" Maisel, a 1950s New York City woman whose seemingly perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn, taking her from a comfortable life on Riverside Drive through the basket houses and nightclubs of Greenwich Village as she embarks on a groundbreaking standup comedy career. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino (creator and showrunner of Gilmore Girls), and starring Rachel Brosnahan, Alex Borstein, and Tony Shalhoub, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel has garnered fan and critical praise alike, with much of the attention focused on the exquisitely designed period costumes. Madly Marvelous: The Costumes of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel explores the inner workings of award-winning costume designer Donna Zakowska's process, as well as the many inspirations for the show's wardrobe, including period photography, American and European fashion trends, and the various cultures and countercultures of late-1950s New York. The clothes of Mrs. Maisel are gorgeous, authentically detailed, and carefully crafted. Illustrated with sketches, photographs from Zakowska's workspace, behind-the-scenes shots, and production stills, the book follows the series from season to season, showing how the vocabulary of fashion-context, style, color, cut, accessories, and more-is integral to defining and developing the characters in the show. Madly Marvelous is a must-have for fans of the show and fashionistas alike, providing readers with a curated and well-informed look at an integral period in fashion history.

Winter is coming. Every Sunday night, millions of fans gather around their televisions to take in the spectacle that is a new episode of Game of Thrones. Much is made of who will be gruesomely murdered each week on the hit show, though sometimes the question really is who won't die a fiery death. The show, based on the Song of Fire and Ice series written by George R. R. Martin, is a truly global phenomenon. With the seventh season of the HBO series in production, Game of Thrones has been nominated for multiple awards, its cast has been catapulted to celebrity and references to it proliferate throughout popular culture. Often positioned as the grittier antithesis to J. R. R. Tolkien's Lord of the Rings, Martin's narrative focuses on the darker side of chivalry and heroism, stripping away these higher ideals to reveal the greed, amorality and lust for power underpinning them. Fan Phenomena: Game of Thrones is an exciting new addition to the Intellect series, bringing together academics and fans of Martin's universe to consider not just the content of the books and HBO series, but fan responses to both. From trivia nights dedicated to minutiae to forums speculating on plot twists to academics trying to make sense of the bizarre climate of Westeros, everyone is talking about Game of Thrones. Edited by Kavita Mudan Finn, the book focuses on the communities created by the books and television series and how these communities envision themselves as consumers, critics and even creators of fanworks in a wide variety of media, including fiction, art, fancasting and cosplay.

The long-running popular TV series Doctor Who is, Piers Britton argues, a 'uniquely design intensive text': its time-and-space-travel premise requires that designers be tirelessly imaginative in devising new worlds and entities and recreating past civilizations. While Doctor Who's attempts at worldbuilding are notorious for being hit-and-miss - old jokes about wobbly walls and sink plungers die hard - the distinctiveness of the series' design imagery is beyond question. And over the course of six decades Doctor Who has produced designs which are not only iconic but, in being repeatedly revisited and updated, have proven to be an ever-more important element in the series' identity and mythos. In the first in-depth study of Doctor Who's costumes, sets and graphics, Piers Britton offers an historical overview of both the original and the revived series, explores theoretical frameworks for evaluating Doctor Who design, and provides detailed analysis of key images. Case studies include the visual morphology of Doctor Who's historical adventures, the evaluative character of cosplay, and the ongoing significance for the Doctor Who brand of such high-profile designs as the Daleks and the TARDIS interior, the 'time-tunnel' title sequence, and the costumes of the Fourth and Thirteenth Doctors.

This exciting book explores one of the most diverse and innovative periods in British fashion and showcases the work of some of the decade's leading designers - including Betty Jackson, Leigh Bowery, John Galliano, Body Map, Vivienne Westwood and many others. Highlighting the decade's extraordinarily creative interaction between fashion and popular music, the book shows how both catwalk and club fashions were interpreted for a wider audience through the striking photography and innovative graphic designs of key magazines. 80s Fashion includes interviews and original archive material from practitioners such as Wendy Dagworthy and Paul Smith that casts new light on the designs of the decade.

"Why have you not sent the clothes which you were supposed to send from the province of the Frisians? For the sake of God the Almighty, send them soon."- from an anonymous letter to a cleric in Frisia in the spring of 748. In this work the author presents a pioneering cultural history of clothing from approx. 750 to 1050, which places the clothing and life of medieval people in their social context. The findings of this volume are based on the detailed examination and evaluation of written, graphic and archaeological sources. The author presents the clothing of the laity, the robes of the ruling classes and the habits of monks and cathedral clergy, and gives an overview of the changes in clothing and fashion. A more technical second section deals with raw materials, dyes, and production and processing technology.

Packed with 60 gorgeous projects selected from the best-selling Love to Sew series, this bumper book will give you all the inspiration you need to get creative, bust that stash and make wonderful items for your home or for friends and family. Authored by best-selling, sewing superstars such as Debbie Shore, Alistair Macdonald and Debbie von Grabler-Crozier to name a few, Love to Sew offers all the expert guidance you'll need to make useful and unique items for your home or loved ones. Choose from practical items such as coasters, a wall tidy, a door stop and a tablet case, to beautiful, decorative pillows, cosy, warm quilts and practical, stylish bags. Each project is clearly explained step by step, with supporting photographs and illustrations. The book contains all the templates needed, along with a handy techniques section at the start to make sure you have all the information you need to get going.

A fascinating history of Irishmen, woven through the clothes they wear. Taking the clothes they wore as a starting point, Paul Galvin skilfully weaves together a collection of stories of Irish men who defined the culture and mood of their time. In 'Push' he tells the story of the legendary Walker Brothers - cyclists and soldiers who pedalled through a storm for Ireland at the 1912 Stockholm Games. In 'Born Mad', discover another side to Samuel Beckett - sartor and prolific sportsman who had knockout power as a champion boxer in school. In 'Boland' we learn about Harry Boland's background as a trained tailor, and in 'Jack' we encounter Jack B. Yeats at the Olympic Games in Paris. These are just some of men who have inspired Paul's own fashion collections and whom he writes about here in a fascinating collection that shines a light on how history is woven into the clothes Irishmen wear.

Knowing how to sew will make you a better designer; you will learn what is possible, and be inspired by the creative possibilities of sewing techniques. In this book you will start by learning the basics: how to choose tools; how to choose and use thread; pressing techniques; and how to choose and use appropriate interfacings and linings. Basic techniques include seam and hem finishes, sewing buttons and buttonholes, working with knit fabrics and finishing details including bindings and spaghetti straps, tailored pockets and zips. Each lesson is illustrated with step-by-step photographs.

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world's influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world. This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today's rapidly changing modern world. Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

This new edition of the classic reference is enhanced with hundreds of new color photographs depicting a wide array of collectors' treasures. Victorian hatpins, required to fasten large hats, and the holders used to store them when not in use, are presented in close views with extensive text to interpret their use and place them among popular historical fashion accessories. Precious and everyday materials alike are found in hatpins, and the holders are generally glass or porcelain. This new book will be a valuable aid to collectors and all who are interested in period costume, jewelry, and memorabilia

Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, Third Edition, shows readers how to recognize, evaluate, and correct fit for 88 figure variations. This comprehensive guide presents proven methods of style selection, fitting, and alteration. The authors use a multi-level approach that is both logical and easy to follow, and each procedure is clearly identified and fully illustrated with a second color added to clarify the procedure and show directional measuring. Each figure is drawn to scale ensuring consistency and accuracy. The cause for the fitting problem is clearly identified and explained--giving readers the why behind each fitting procedure. Highlights of this edition include new photographs of common fit problems, as well as instructions for working with multi-sized patterns and correcting garments that have more than one fit problem. New to this Edition ~ Chapters open with added key terms and chapter objectives ~ End-of-chapter discussion questions allow the reader to fully engage with the content ~ New 2-color graded pattern illustrations, measurement illustrations, photos of actual body types and illustrations of advanced bodice and pant fitting patterns ~ Updated Reality Check boxes present further details on the topic at hand and reinforce the learning experience Introducing Fitting and Pattern Alteration STUDIO--an online tool for more effective study! - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions

How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarede's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

In recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe. Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene - and looks at the evolution of the 'ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashion professionals with close analyses of garments and advertising, Menswear Revolution provides an authoritative account of menswear design today. Highlighting its relationship to changing concepts of gender, the book provides a much-needed update to scholarship on masculinity, fashion and the body.

Jean-Paul Goude is a modern legend in the world of commercial art. From his New York days with Esquire magazine to his latest work for Galeries Lafayette, he has consistently provoked and delighted those who have encountered his work. He was Grace Jones's Pygmalion, creating unforgettable images of her, from androgyne to cyber-superwoman to supreme diva. This volume, published to accompany a major retrospective at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, is a celebration of his creative zest and perfectionism, and his unique affinity for making fresh and engaging work. Around 600 images are on show, including many working documents published here for the first time, from inspired doodles to final images that sparkle with creative vigour. Selected and arranged by Goude himself, they present a gallery of artworks that have redefined advertising and brand photography as we know them. Sexy, irreverent and full of humour, this book will inform and instruct all those concerned with the art of image-making, whether professionals or simply those prepared to be entertained by chic, witty images that work.

Yves Saint Laurent (1936 2008) is credited with reviving French haute couture in the 1960s, with making ready-to-wear reputable, and with using non-European cultural references. In addition to the kaleidoscope of images in this book, a coterie of tastemakers have supplied listings that encompass YSL s style inspirations (C is for Costumes, as exemplified by the Russian theme of the famed autumn-winter 1976 77 collection; T is for Tuxedo, which the designer initially referenced with his 1965 Le Smoking ) and important facets of his life (J is for Jardin Majorelle, the garden of the couturier s paradisiacal retreat in Marrakech; R is for Rive Gauche, the bohemian, chic neighbourhood of Paris where the YSL boutique is situated and also the name of the house s famous perfume launched in 1970). This distillation and celebration of the designer s life reveals the inner world of a twentieth-century master.

Men's jewelry has a long and fascinating history, with storied houses, famous patrons and a diverse range of modern designers. Behind each tiny piece often lies a complex narrative of patronage, personality and craftsmanship. This is the first publication dedicated solely to a neglected subject. Drawing on his expertise on men's style and insider's knowledge of the jewelry industry, men's style aficionado James Sherwood tells the story of men's relationship with jewelry and presents the contemporary artisans who keep the art alive. Through thematic chapters, works by key jewelers are profiled and richly illustrated, including pieces by Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Cartier, Boucheron and Ara Vartanian. Hundreds of exquisite photographs, many specially commissioned, of rings, cufflinks, studs, pins, slides, bracelets, chains and pendants chart changing fashions and evolving attitudes to men's jewelry over the centuries. Pieces by great craftsmen and -women and the patrons who commissioned them, from the Maharaja of Kashmir to David Bowie, are brought to life through vivid texts and contemporary and archival portraits. This sumptuous guide to sartorial elegance sets men's jewelry in its proper historical and cultural contexts, offering an unexpected resource for jewelers and a trove of inspiration for anyone who wears, gifts or simply admires men's jewelry.

Here is a new look at some very smart, old shoes. In 1896, detailed engravings of 3000 styles of shoes and boots for men, women, and children were cataloged for sale by Geo. D. Ramsdell of Rochester, N.Y. They included the most fashionable designs in shoes for a discriminating clientele. Today, these shoe designs look romantic and stylish and enjoy renewed popularity among the young and old alike. The styles shown here will inspire another look at the beautiful shapes, materials, and workmanship that were expected of a shoe in 1896. The styles for women include laced and buttoned boots; flat and spring-heel styles; wool, straight, and congress shoes; oxfords; and slippers. For men there are dress shoes in wool and leather, sporting and oxford types, boots, rubbers, leggings, overgaiters, and slippers. For boys and girls there are everyday and dressy shoes, oxfords, and again, slippers. This book also presents charming advertising cuts for the retail trade to use when it publicized these shoes in newspapers. A Price Guide relates the values for shoes of this type on the market today.

Cartier: The Story Behind the Style is a beautifully illustrated, handbag-sized visual history of one of the world's most iconic brands. From the brand's inception in Paris in 1847, Cartier has been the go-to jeweller for the world's most stylish set. Filled with photographs and information from the company's 175 years, go behind the scenes to discover the story of how Cartier became synonymous with luxury. Chart the rise of the famous jeweller and watchmaker from humble beginnings in 19th-century Paris to the slick empire it is today. Discover how the ambitious Cartier family broke fresh ground in design, enchanted maharajas and presidents, struck up strategic creative partnerships, and became a household name with iconic designs such as the Panthere, Tank and Love bracelet. Cartier: The Story Behind the Style is the perfect book for any fashion or jewellery lover. Also available, Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining, and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.

As the epitome of reckless devil-may-care cool, denim jeans have been embraced by people from practically all cultures and walks of life, and favoured for their sheer versatility and style."Delirious Denim" chronicles the garment's meteoric rise in popularity and its role in building iconic brands like Levi's and Wranglers, and celebrities from James Dean to Andy Warhol.While showcasing the creative and infinitely varied modifications of jeans to express the unique identity of the wearer, "Delirious Denim" offers insightful interviews with jeans collectors and afficionados to articulate their irresistible allure.Illustrated with full-colour photography throughout, "Delirious Denim" is a colourful tribute to jeans for designers and fashionistas everywhere.