After toppling the Ming dynasty, the Qing conquerors forced Han Chinese males to adopt Manchu hairstyle and clothing. Yet China's new rulers tolerated the use of traditional Chinese attire in performances, making theater one of the only areas of life where Han garments could still be seen and where Manchu rule could be contested. Staging Personhood uncovers a hidden history of the Ming-Qing transition by exploring what it meant for the clothing of a deposed dynasty to survive onstage. Reading dramatic works against Qing sartorial regulations, Guojun Wang offers an interdisciplinary lens on the entanglements between Chinese drama and nascent Manchu rule in seventeenth-century China. He reveals not just how political and ethnic conflicts shaped theatrical costuming but also the ways costuming enabled different modes of identity negotiation during the dynastic transition. In case studies of theatrical texts and performances, Wang considers clothing and costumes as indices of changing ethnic and gender identities. He contends that theatrical costuming provided a productive way to reconnect bodies, clothes, and identities disrupted by political turmoil. Through careful attention to a variety of canonical and lesser-known plays, visual and performance records, and historical documents, Staging Personhood provides a pathbreaking perspective on the cultural dynamics of early Qing China.

Montreal is a la mode. A fashionable city in its own right, it also boasts fashion schools, an industry packed with local designers and manufacturers and a dynamic scene that exhibits local and international collections. With its vibrant cultural life and affordable cost of living, designers and artists flock from all over to be a part of Montreal's hip fashion community. MontrealChic is the first book to document this scene and how it connects with the city's design, film, music and cultural history. Scholars Katrina Sark and Sara Daniele Belanger-Michaud are intimately acquainted with Montreal and use their firsthand knowledge of the city's fashion to explore urban culture, music, institutions, scenes and subcultures, along the way uncovering many untold stories of Montreal's fashion scene.

Discover the signature sartorial and literary style of fifty men and women of letters, including Maya Angelou; Truman Capote; Colette; Bret Easton Ellis; Allen Ginsberg; Patti Smith; Karl Ove Knausgaard; and David Foster Wallace; in this unique compendium of profiles-packed with eighty black-and-white photographs, excerpts, quotes, and fast facts-that illuminates their impact on modern fashion. Whether it's Zadie Smith's exotic turban, James Joyce's wire-framed glasses, or Samuel Beckett's Wallabees, a writer's attire often reflects the creative and spiritual essence of his or her work. As a non-linear sensibility has come to dominate modern style, curious trendsetters have increasingly found a stimulating muse in writers-many, like Joan Didion, whose personal aesthetic is distinctly "out of fashion." For decades, Didion has used her work, both her journalism and experimental fiction, as a mirror to reflect her innermost emotions and ideas-an originality that has inspired Millennials, resonated with a new generation of fashion designers and cultural tastemakers, and made Didion, in her eighties, the face of Celine in 2015. Legendary Authors and the Clothes They Wore examines fifty revered writers-among them Samuel Beckett; Quentin Crisp; Simone de Beauvoir; T.S. Eliot; F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald; Malcolm Gladwell; Donna Tartt; John Updike; Oscar Wilde; and Tom Wolfe-whose work and way of dress bears an idiosyncratic stamp influencing culture today. Terry Newman combines illuminating anecdotes about authors and their work, archival photography, first-person quotations from each writer and current designers, little-known facts, and clothing-oriented excerpts that exemplify their original writing style. Each entry spotlights an author and a signature wardrobe moment that expresses his or her persona, and reveals how it influences the fashion world today. Newman explores how the particular item of clothing or style has contributed to fashion's lingua franca-delving deeper to appraise its historical trajectory and distinctive effect. Legendary Authors and the Clothes They Wore is an invaluable and engaging look at the writers we love-and why we love what they wear-that is sure to captivate lovers of great literature and sophisticated fashion.

This book examines how sustainability has the potential to transform both the fashion system and the innovators who work within it. Sustainability is arguably the defining theme of the twenty-first century. The issues in fashion are broad-ranging and include labour abuses, toxic chemicals use and conspicuous consumption, giving rise to an undeniable tension between fashion and sustainability. The book is organized in three parts. The first part is concerned with transforming fashion products across the garment's lifecycle and includes innovation in materials, manufacture, distribution, use and re-use. The second part looks at ideas that are transforming the fashion system at root into something more sustainable, including new business models that reduce material throughput. The third section is concerned with transforming the role of fashion designers and looks to examples where the designer changes from a stylist or creator into a communicator, activist or facilitator.

London Couture is the first book to examine, in detail, the luxurious garments produced by the rarefied London couture industry - from lavish ballgowns to sharply tailored suits, by way of spectacular royal dress - as well as the designers who conceived them, their clients and the prestigious publications that disseminated and promoted the `London Look' to the world. Expert authors from around the world have delved into the archives of prestigious designers, textile suppliers and fashionable journals, to bring together this pioneering study of the London Fashion houses of the early to mid-twentieth century, renowned for their superb craftsmanship and attention to detail. The full breadth of London's offering is examined, from royal favourite Norman Hartnell to pioneer Charles James, and prestigious houses such as Worth, Hardy Amies and Lucile. The ancillary dressmaking trades in London are also considered, as are the international market for London couture, and the impact of royal dress on high-end fashion. A wealth of visual material supports the extensive, original research - from beautiful features by celebrated photographer Norman Parkinson to the elegant illustrations of Francis Marshall. Previously unseen garments are illustrated throughout the book, alongside historical photography that documents the houses of the great designers, their favoured fabrics and their most glamorous clients, including Queen Elizabeth, Margot Fonteyn, Rose Kennedy and countless stars of stage and screen.

David Bowie's career as a pioneering artist spanned nearly 50 years and brought him international acclaim. He continues to be cited as a major influence on contemporary artists and designers working across the creative arts. Published to accompany the blockbuster international exhibition launched at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, this is the only book to be granted access to Bowie's personal archive of performance costume, ephemera and original design artwork by the artist, and brings it together to present a completely new perspective on his creative work and collaborations. The book traces his career from its beginnings in London, through the breakthroughs of Space Oddity and Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars, and on to his impact on the larger international tradition of twentieth-century avant-garde art. Essays by V&A curators on Bowie's London, image, and influence on the fashion world, are complemented by Howard Goodall on musicology; Camille Paglia on gender and decadence and Jon Savage on Bowie's relationship with William Burroughs and his fans. Also included is a discussion between Christopher Frayling, Philip Hoare and Mark Kermode, held at the V&A, of Bowie's cultural impact. Over 300 images include personal and performance photographs, costumes, lyric sheets giving an unique insight into Bowie's world.

A comprehensive and beautifully illustrated examination of dress, clothing, fashion, and sewing in the Regency seen through the lens of Jane Austen's life and writings This lively book reveals the clothing and fashion of the world depicted in Jane Austen's beloved books, focusing on the long Regency between the years 1795 and 1825. During this period, accelerated change saw Britain's turbulent entry into the modern age, and clothing reflected these transformations. Starting with the intimate perspective of clothing the self, Dress in the Age of Jane Austen moves outward through the social and cultural spheres of home, village, countryside, and cities, and into the wider national and global realms, exploring the varied ways people dressed to inhabit these environments. Jane Austen's famously observant fictional writings, as well as her letters, provide the entry point for examining the Regency age's rich complexity of fashion, dress, and textiles for men and women in their contemporary contexts. Lavishly illustrated with paintings, drawings, historic garments, and fashion plates-including many previously unpublished images-this authoritative yet accessible book will help readers visualize the external selves of Austen's immortal characters as clearly as she wrote of their internal ones. The result is an enhanced understanding of Austen's work and time, and also of the history of one of Britain's most distinctive fashion eras.

Celebrating decades of achievement by one of the foremost names in British fashion, whose vitality and influence continue to shine Zandra Rhodes provides a luscious documentary of this leading British designer, spanning her 50-year career in fashion and textile design. The book showcases not only Rhodes's work but also her vivid personality and creative energy. Both a fashion trailblazer and a consummate textile designer, she has influenced the work of contemporary labels such as Mary Katrantzou and Alice Temperley. The book honors the centrality of textile design in Rhodes's work, while exploring the versatility of her imagination throughout her long career; contributors include Pierpaolo Piccioli (creative director of Valentino), Suzy Menkes (editor of Vogue International), and celebrated fashion designers Anna Sui and Rajeev Sethi. It also commemorates the 50th anniversary of the house of Zandra Rhodes, a British-owned and -made brand, and Rhodes's successful establishment of the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Published in association with the Fashion and Textile Museum, London Exhibition Schedule: Fashion and Textile Museum, London (September 27, 2019-January 26, 2020)

The face has inspired artists around the world for millennia, and Japan's Noh theater has provided a complex domain for exploring human emotion. Inspired by these practices, "Traditions Transfigured" examines fourteen contemporary works by Noh mask-maker and artist Bidou Yamaguchi. These apply the forms, techniques, transformative spirit, and mysterious elegance of Noh masks to iconic female portraits from the European art historical canon, and to Kabuki actor prints by Sharaku, Japan's 18th century portrait master.

This book explores these masks in the context of Noh through essays by art historians, a Noh specialist, and an award-winning novelist.

Kendall H. Brown, professor of Asian art history at California State University, Long Beach is author of "Deco Japan" and "Water and Shadow."

Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry. Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia). Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.

Jean-Paul Goude is one of the world s most brilliant and unorthodox image-makers. This book assembles a collection of advertising artwork he created over a ten-year period for Galeries Lafayette Paris s most celebrated department store. Approximately 200 works are included: drawings, sketches, and final images that sparkle with creative vigor. Selected and arranged by Goude himself, they present a gallery of artworks that have not only defined a brand, but have redefined advertising and brand photography as we know them. Goude is behind some of the wittiest billboards in Paris, in perfect control of his medium and with an intuitive sense of chic. In an inspired moment, Galeries Lafayette gave Goude a rare degree of creative freedom, and Goude responded with some of the best work he has ever made: a modern classic of commercial art. This book is a celebration of Goude s creative zest and perfectionism, and his unique affinity for making fresh and engaging commercial art. It will inform and instruct anyone concerned about the art of image-making, whether design professionals or simply those prepared to be delighted and entertained by chic, witty images that work.

Louis Vuitton, the global luxury fashion house, and world-famous artist Yayoi Kusama partner again, and in the storied history of the brand’s epic collaborations with artists, this is the most ambitious to date.

In this important volume about this powerhouse collaboration, artwork by trailblazing artist Yayoi Kusama is featured alongside the groundbreaking fashion collection she designed with Louis Vuitton, and is organized around the seminal artistic themes that inspired the project.

Edited by Ferdinando Verdi and Isabel Venero, the volume includes contributions from renowned experts in both fashion and art, including writer Jo-Ann Furniss who explores the collaboration, designer Marc Jacobs who initiated the house’s relationship with Kusama, and curators Mika Yoshitake and Philip Larratt-Smith, both of whom have organized important exhibitions on the artist’s work. And Hans Ulrich Obrist, the renowned curator and Artistic Director of Serpentine Galleries, London, Hans Ulrich Obrist talks with longtime Kusama expert Akira Tatehata.

In the spirit of this iconic partnership and with a nod to the popular fascination with Kusama, the book includes musings from some of the most important contemporary artists and musicians working today—including Arca, Katherine Bradford, Anne Imhoff, Ryan McNamara, Raúl de Nieves, Ryan Trecartin, Nora Turato, and Jacolby Satterwhite—talking about Kusama’s impact and her extraordinary ability to build fantastical worlds through her signature polka dots and mirror balls, which are joyful representations of her deeply thoughtful philosophy about art and the universe.

Fashion Design for Living explores the positive contribution that the contemporary fashion designer can make within society. The book seeks to reveal new ways of designing and making fashion garments, which can lead towards the creation of fashion products that enhance and enrich our lives. This book sets out to question and challenge the dominant, conventional process of fashion design, which as a practice has been under-researched. While the fashion designer in industry is primarily concerned with the creation of the new seasonal collection, which is designed, produced and measured by economically driven factors, society now expects the designer to make a positive contribution to our social, environmental and cultural life. Consequently an emergent set of designers and research-based practitioners are beginning to uncover new ways to think about fashion designing. The contributors within the book argue that fashion designing should move beyond developing garments that are chiefly aesthetically pleasing but instead should consider wearers, experiences, movement, problems, desires, contexts, situations, engagement, scenarios and use.The practitioners and researchers who have contributed to this book each share different perspectives on how fashion design can positively contribute to our social, environmental and cultural existence. These accounts reveal an approach to fashion design that can focus on users, lived experiences, actual and everyday problems or scenarios, which often remain unfamiliar or aside from the fashion design process applied in industry or in the educational fashion design studio. Therefore Fashion Design for Living proposes to champion new approaches to fashion practice, through a rich and diverse set of views and reflective experiences, which aim to inspire fresh, innovative and creative responses to the world around us.

Historical Wig Styling: Victorian to the Present, 2nd edition, is a guide to creating beautiful, historically accurate hairstyles for theatrical productions and events. This volume covers hairstyles from the Victorian era through the contemporary styles of today. Chapters begin with an overview of historic figures and styles that influenced the look of each period, followed by step-by-step instructions and photographs showing the finished look from every angle. The book also explores the necessary supplies and styling products needed to create the perfect coif, tips for proper wig handling, a brief history of the makeup for each historical period, and basic styling techniques useful when working with wigs or real hair. New hairstyles featured in this edition include: - Civil War era women - Late Victorian African-American men - 1910s' Full width style women - 1920s' glossy waves - 1940s' Victory rolls - 1950s' Poodle updos - 1960s' flips With over 1,000 full-color images and detailed instructions on how to create iconic hairstyles and makeup, Historical Wig Styling: Victorian to the Present, 2nd edition, is an excellent resource for professional costume designers and wig makers, as well as for students of Costume Design and Wig Making and Styling courses.

This is a complete history and visual guide to over 400 famous tartans. It is a comprehensive and informative visual directory of tartans, both ancient and modern. It contains a fascinating account of how tartan is woven into every aspect of the story of the Scottish nation, examining its history, origins, and contemporary uses. It shows how Scotland's heritage now extends far beyond her shores, and how tartan is used to unite and identify a diverse ancestral tradition. It is lavishly illustrated throughout with evocative fine art images and a complete directory of major tartan setts, from the Bruce clan to the Stewarts. It includes corporate and international tartans as well as family and associated tartans. This illustrated guide provides a detailed insight into the origins and history of tartan, from the very earliest samples, through those worn by the warring clans in the Stuart rebellions, to the Katsushika Japanese Dancers. The first section details the story of tartan, with information on the way the fabric and weaves developed and how it became a symbol of resistance. The main part of the book is a directory illustrating the major clan tartans followed by international and modern tartans, with a wealth of history and background to each. From the ancient Bruce family to Neil Armstrong, who took his family tartan to the moon, tartan is one of the most enduring symbols of national price and individual reputation. It is also a peculiarly inclusive, adapatable way of proclaiming allegiance and belonging.

A stunning and comprehensive overview of the legendary house of Dior, from its founding in 1947 to today, featuring over 170 collections presented through original catwalk photography In spring 1947, Christian Dior presented the first collection of his newly founded eponymous fashion house. Soon dubbed the "New Look," it grabbed headlines all over the world and turned Dior into one of the most influential brands of all time. After the couturier's untimely death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took the helm of the fashion house before being succeeded by Marc Bohan, who was in turn replaced by Gianfranco Ferre in 1989. In 1996, John Galliano was appointed creative director, designing flamboyant collections for a decade, before the arrival of Raf Simon in 2012, who gave the house a newly imagined identity for the 21st century. Maria Grazia Chiuri's arrival in 2017 as the first woman designer in Dior's history also marks the seventieth anniversary of the "New Look." For the first time, every Dior haute couture collection is gathered here in a single, lavishly illustrated volume--providing a unique opportunity to chart the development of one of the world's most famous fashion brands and to discover rarely seen collections. Dior: The Complete Collections opens with a concise history of the house of Dior before exploring the collections themselves, which are organized chronologically. Each new "era" in Dior's history is inaugurated by a brief overview and biography of the new designer, while individual collections are introduced by a short text unveiling their influences and highlights and illustrated with carefully curated catwalk images. A rich reference section, including an extensive index, concludes this definitive publication.

Muses of attitude, brains and confidence come together in this glossy compendium of the female icons who use their personal style and influence to change the way we look and dress. From the obvious to the outrageous, Frida Kahlo to Cara Delevingne, 100 Women * 100 Styles profiles the personalities of each woman, showing what made them who they are, and how they can inspire you.

Enchanting Embroidery Designs invites you to create your own world using bright thread colors and imaginative stitches. Full of motifs that are both simple and playful, from zany crocodiles, and cuddly cats to big-eared bats and stealthy ravens. This book invites you to be creative with its whimsical designs and step-by-step instructions--whether you use these projects as visible mending techniques or simply to add interest to a piece. The sweet scenes and cute characters are full of life and texture, making them at home on your favorite clothing, home accessories or wall hangings. The unusual and versatile designs in this book include: Cheery flowers on a broach Pretty pine trees on hanging ornaments A colorful curly sheep Fluffy and stormy clouds Bushy-tailed foxes Moss on stone and microorganisms in Petri dishes And more! Simple how-tos take you through every recommended stitch, while a section on combining colors will inspire you to try mixing and matching to create something new. There's also a section on turning your stitchery into embellishments you can use, wear and share. Put your imagination and hands to work with the help of this inspiring embroidery book.

Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather.

A polaroid is the physical and organic reminder of a particular moment, enabling the creative team to step back and fully consider the technical and artistic direction of a photoshoot. The excitement of watching the image slowly developing and seeing the final result makes the polaroid a tiny artwork all of its own.In this book, uber-stylist and storyteller Jo Hambro showcases some of her vast personal records of polaroids taken from the fashion shoots she has worked on over the last two decades. Combined with her extraordinary notebooks, scribbles and sketches formulating the stories that each shoot is based on, (in which polaroids are an indispensable part), we are taken into the hidden world of fashion's creative process.

Malene Birger is the epitome of creativity, timelessness, and eclectic style. Whether as a fashion designer and founder of her brands - the latest being By Malene Birger - or as an interior designer, until now only expressed in her own homes and offices - Birger's love for uncompromising design and traditional craftsmanship is in evidence everywhere. In her newest book, Move and Work, this self-proclaimed nomad, who searches around the world for inspiration, grants an exciting insight into her three homes that amaze with their limitless wealth of design ideas. She additionally provides an exclusive preview of her new showroom in Copenhagen for her design and interiors firm Birger1962. This creative studio is dedicated to design, interiors, and art and provides others with a source of inspiration on how to redecorate and rearrange their own homes and spaces. Thanks to numerous personal and professional moves, Malene Birger is the best example of how to create new environments using one's existing furniture while moving forward and adding new expressions. Her houses are a perfect mix of old and new, craftsmanship, modernity, art, and influences from other cultures. Malene Birger lived in Mallorca for 6 years and moved to London in 2013, where she is now personally and professionally based. Text in English, German, French and Spanish.

Men's Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains: step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries; drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat; patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections. From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.

This fun introduction to design opens the world of style to budding fashionistas Bestselling art instructor Chris Hart not only gives step-by-step instructions on drawing figures from many points of view and in varying poses, he explains the tricks of the trade: how to "dress" your figure; render color, texture, and print; and create accessories, hairstyles, and makeup looks. An overview of tools, materials, and essential skills will help you bring your creative vision to life

The latest volume of this popular series allows anyone interested in fashion to glimpse its future: the emerging trends in European design. More than 340 photos capture the designs and insights of 70 of Europe's top fashion students from the most prominent fashion design colleges and universities in Denmark, England, Ireland, the Netherlands, and Sweden. Europe's up-and-coming designers reveal insights about their design choices, their use of materials, and their chosen techniques in creating womenswear and menswear. This is an essential reference for every fashion program, and for everyone interested in the most exciting trendsetters entering the fashion world.

This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.