A showcase of ground-breaking photography of fashion magazines over the last century

Acclaimed photography critic Vince Aletti has selected 100 significant magazine issues from his expansive personal archive, revealing images by photographers rarely seen outside their original context. With his characteristic élan and featuring stunning images, Aletti has created a fresh, idiosyncratic, and previously unexplored angle on the history of photography.

Issues, a luxury, oversized object, richly illustrated with brilliant reproductions, and enclosed in an elegant archival-style magazine-file box, is an essential addition to every book collection on photography, fashion, and graphic design.

It's the first survey to explore the history of photography through the lens of fashion magazines, spanning the years 1925 to 2018. Magazines featured include American, British, and French Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, W, Details, Purple Fashion, The Face, Dutch, and many more.

The book includes images rarely, if ever, republished by fashion and art photographers, including Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Edward Steichen, Toni Frissell, Irving Penn, Diane Arbus, Collier Schorr, Inez and Vinoodh, Juergen Teller, Bill Cunningham, and Cindy Sherman.

"Women are into fashion, men are into style, style is forever" Domenico Dolce Womenswear progresses in leaps and bounds, fuelled by the readiness of women to wear what may at the time be perceived as the radical or outrageous. Not so menswear -menswear evolves, slowly. But from what? Behind nearly every item in the modern male wardrobe is a 'first of its kind' - the definitive item, often designed by a single company or brand for specialist use, on which all subsequent versions have been based (and originals of which are now collector items in the booming vintage market). The T-shirt, for example, may now be an innocuous, everyday item, but was created by American company Hanes for US Navy personnel at the turn of the 20th century and was subsequently adopted by sportsmen and bikers. Other items have been designed for sport, farm work, protection and made their way into everyday usage. Icons of Men's Style examines, garment by garment, the most important and famous of these products - their provenance and history, the stories of their design, the brand/company that started it all and how the item shaped the way men dress today.

Barbara Hulanicki tells the story of the rise and fall of the tiny, energetic boutique that grew into a vast emporium and epitomised Swinging London. The Biba store was to become an icon of hip '60s and '70s London and a hangout for artists, film stars and rock musicians, including the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot and Marianne Faithful. But in the early 1970s, Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon lost control after a series of bitter boardroom struggles and for Barbara, Biba was lost. This lively autobiography evokes the adventurous spirit of the 1960s and describes an extraordinary life with clarity and wit.

Coco Chanel was founder and queen of a fashion empire, and her name is forever linked to an unmistakable style. Before all this, Mademoiselle Coco was Gabrielle, a poor orphan who rejected convention and put her independence above all else. With her grit and tenacity, she made her fortune and restored freedom to women. This volume celebrates a true icon 50 years after her passing, coinciding with the 100th anniversary of the timeless Chanel N Degrees5. She revolutionized the concept of feminine elegance with straight dresses and inventions that would later become icons: these were the little black dress, Chanel N Degrees 5, costume jewellery, the suit with gold buttons, the quilted bag. Her myth lives again in a biography illustrated by images portraying her as the perfect embodiment of the timeless elegance. Because, as Coco said, "fashion passes; style remains."

In 1997, Jeff Staple walked into a boutique in New York City wearing a shirt he printed in his silkscreen class at Parsons School of Design. What started as a small T-Shirt line handmade by Jeff Staple, grew organically and began to gain visibility in NYC. In the process of building this burgeoning brand, Nike asked Jeff Staple in 2005 to create a special commemorative sneaker that would represent New York. The Staple Pigeon Dunk SB was conceived and led to much fanfare upon its release and exposed Staple as well as sneaker culture to the masses. With roots tied to Fader Magazine, a history of collabs with Shake Shack, and three separate projects with automotive companies. In Jeff s words, to understand is to see, and to see is to have clarity of mind. That clarity has helped develop his iconic Pigeon logo (and brand) into a global force that has graced the heels of almost every major footwear brand imaginable. This book offers readers a history lesson in streetwear and the sneaker industry while also uncovering design context to a series of Staple s most crucial projects. A beautiful visual reference, this book invites you to travel down an intricate maze of streetwear history told through an insider s point of view. Archival sketches, drawings, magazine covers, and a foreword by Hiroshi Fujiwara make this an indispensable volume for lovers of streetwear and design.

Fashioning James Bond is the first book to study the costumes and fashions of the James Bond movie franchise, from Sean Connery in 1962's Dr No to Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015). Llewella Chapman draws on original archival research, close analysis of the costumes and fashion brands featured in the Bond films, interviews with families of tailors and shirt-makers who assisted in creating the 'look' of James Bond, and considers marketing strategies for the films and tie-in merchandise that promoted the idea of an aspirational 'James Bond lifestyle'. Addressing each Bond film in turn, Chapman questions why costumes are an important tool for analysing and evaluating film, both in terms of the development of gender and identity in the James Bond film franchise in relation to character, and how it evokes the desire in audiences to become part of a specific lifestyle construct through the wearing of fashions as seen on screen. She researches the agency of the costume department, director, producer and actor in creating the look and characterisation of James Bond, the villains, the Bond girls and the henchmen who inhibit the world of 007. Alongside this, she analyses trends and their impact on the Bond films, how the different costume designers have individually and creatively approached costuming them, and how the costumes were designed and developed from novel to script and screen. In doing so, this book contributes to the emerging critical literature surrounding the combined areas of film, fashion, gender and James Bond.

In the turbulent political and social landscape of Revolutionary France, dress played a major role in defining and displaying new identities. What people wore was, in fact, a vital symbol of their allegiances and beliefs. Drawing on a wide range of documentary and visual sources, this book offers a vivid picture of the highly charged politics of Revolutionary appearances. The author explores the dynamic complexity of the new socio-political world, where the identification of who stood for what was such an urgent, if vexed, issue: where identical items of dress could stand for opposing political ideologies, where a variety of institutions - from local societies to the national assembly - tried to define the meanings associated with clothing, and where the clothes a person wore could seal their fate. Tracing the stories surrounding the liberty cap, the different manifestations of official dress, the tricolore cockade and the sans-culotte provides a new and exciting insight into the complexities and uncertainties that made up life in Revolutionary France and the political culture that it created.

"Suzanne's fashion image are beautiful, bold and often strange. They perfectly capture the sartorial way of life on the runway of streets." - Amateur Photographer Shoes are part of the basic equipment of our everyday wardrobe. They can be seen as a utilitarian necessity, or as a unique and joyful fashion accessory that influences the entire outfit and makes it a distinctive expression of personal style, be it vintage or avant-garde, elegant or edgy, minimalist or extravagant. In It's All About Shoes, street style photographer Suzanne Middlemass presents a colourful mix of fab and fantastic shoes that are worn on the asphalt catwalks of the fashion capitals of the world, including New York, Paris, Milan, London, Berlin, and Copenhagen. This revised edition includes interviews with renowned shoe designers and asks them about design inspiration and sustainability.

Love What You Wear shows women how to be fabulous at ALL of their homes! High stress career got you on the move? Sick of spending thousands of dollars on clothing you never wear? Tried and failed with personal shoppers at high end department stores? Are you constantly wondering where your favorite sweater is? Love What You Wear will update your style without stress. Get dressed from ANYWHERE in the world. Look and feel great and appropriately dressed to tackle your day. Never stress about what to wear no matter what home you're in. Be your best dressed self wherever you are in the world. Styling powerhouse female clients since 2001, Alexandra's approach is easy and in-depth. Transform your style today!

Essays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and beyond. All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices. Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University. Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.

This final volume in the four-volume series Habits of Being shows how the dialectic between everyday appearance and outrageous acts is mediated through clothing and accessories. It considers how clothing and accessories can move quickly from the ordinary to the extravagant. Employing many different approaches, these essays explore how wearing an object-a crown, a flower, an earring, a corsage, a veil, even a length of material-can stray beyond the bounds of the body on which it is placed into the discrepant territory of flagrantly excessive public signs of love, status, honor, prestige, power, desire, and display. The varied contributions of scholars (historians, ethnographers, literary and film critics) and artists (photographers, sculptors, writers, weavers, and embroiderers) take up the threads of these forays into history, psyche, and aesthetics in surprising and useful ways. With examples from around the world, contributors address how the simple action of ornamenting the body, even with something as common as a button, are open to elaborate interpretations-which themselves offer new understandings of human behavior and artistic endeavor. When our "habits of being" receive close scrutiny, they seem anything but habitual. Contributors: Mariapia Bobbiobi; Camilla Cattarulla, U of Rome Three; Paola Colaiacomo, Sapienza, U of Rome; Maria Damon, Pratt Institute of Art; Joanne B. Eicher, U of Minnesota; Maria Giulia Fabi, U of Ferrara; Margherita di Fazio; Adeena Karasick, Fordham U; Tarrah Krajnak, Pitzer College; Charlotte Nekola, William Paterson U; Victoria R. Pass, Maryland Institute College of Art; Amanda Salvioni, U of Macerata; Maria Anita Stefanelli, U of Rome Three.

Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the 'fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.

"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement Over the last century, there has been a revolution in self-presentation and social attitudes towards hair. Developments in mass manufacturing, advances in chemical science and new understandings of bodies and minds have been embraced by new kinds of hairdressers and their clientele and embodied in styles that reflect shifting ideals of what it is to be and to look modern. The emergence of the ladies hairdressing salon, the rise of the celebrity stylist, the impact of Hollywood, an expanding mass media, and a new synergy between fashions in clothing and hairstyles have rippled out globally. Fashions in hair styles and their representation have taken on new meanings as a way of resisting dominant social structures, experimenting with social taboos, and expressing a modern sense of self. From the 1920s bob to the punk cut, hair has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources, and illustrated with 75 images, A Cultural History of Hair in the Modern Age presents essays that explore how politics, science, religion, fashion, beauty, the visual arts, and popular culture have reshaped modern hair and its significance as an agent of social change.

D_TEX presents itself as a starting point at a crossroads of ideas and debates around the complex universe of Textile Design in all its forms, manifestations and dimensions. The textile universe, allied to mankind since its beginnings, is increasingly far from being an area of exhausted possibilities, each moment proposing important innovations that need a presentation, discussion and maturation space that is comprehensive and above all inter- and transdisciplinary. Presently, the disciplinary areas where the textile area is present are increasing and important, such as fashion, home textiles, technical clothing and accessories, but also construction and health, among others, and can provide new possibilities and different disciplinary areas and allowing the production of new knowledge. D_TEX proposes to join the thinking of design, with technologies, tradition, techniques, and related areas, in a single space where ideas are combined with the technique and with the projectual and research capacity, thus providing for the creation of concepts, opinions, associations of ideas, links and connections that allow the conception of ideas, products and services. The interdisciplinary nature of design is a reality that fully reaches the textile material in its essence and its practical application, through the synergy and contamination by the different interventions that make up the multidisciplinary teams of research. The generic theme of D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2017, held at Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal on November 2-4, 2017, is Design the Future, starting from the crossroads of ideas and debates, a new starting point for the exploration of textile materials, their identities and innovations in all their dimensions.

As famous as the stars he photographed, Brian Duffy defined the image of Swinging London in the 1960s. Together with David Bailey and Terence Donovan, Duffy is recognised as one of the innovators of 'documentary' fashion photography, a style which revolutionised the industry. Their attitude and aesthetic iconified the scene, birthing the cult of the fashion photographer and inspiring the famous film Blow-Up (Michelangelo Antonioni, 1966). As Duffy put it, "Before 1960, a fashion photographer was tall, thin and camp. But we three are different: short, fat and heterosexual!" The press nicknamed the three photographers 'The Terrible Three', while Norman Parkinson added to their notoriety by naming them 'The Black Trinity'. Duffy's most famous photograph is the 'Mona Lisa of pop', the cover of Bowie's 'Aladdin Sane'. He collaborated with the artist over eight years and exerted a direct influence on the numerous reinventions of Bowie's image. It is fitting, therefore, that this new edition should expand on their work together with new images. This new edition of Duffy also features other, new images from the photographer's archive, depicting both star and photographer in their prime. Duffy's first commission came from Ernestine Carter, the then fashion editor of The Sunday Times. From there he was hired by British Vogue in 1957, where he remained working until 1963, photographing famous models such as Pauline Stone and Jean Shrimpton. In the 1960s Duffy worked for many of the major fashion magazines; his list of subjects was a roll call of the celebrities of that time, including Sidney Poitier, Michael Caine, Tom Courtney, Sammy Davis Jnr, Nina Simone, John Lennon, Paul McCartney, Charlton Heston and William Burroughs. He was also critically acclaimed for his advertising campaigns with Benson & Hedges and Smirnoff. Notoriously, in 1979 Duffy decided to give up photography, burning many of his negatives in a symbolic fire in his back yard - although he would later take up the camera again at the behest of his son. Thankfully, many of these negatives have been discovered and salvaged since. Duffy died on 31 May 2010. "Duffy and aggravation go together like gin and tonic." - David Bailey

The story of India's exuberantly colored textiles that made their mark on design, technology, and trade around the world Chintz, a type of multicolored printed or painted cotton cloth, originated in India yet exerted influence far beyond its home shores: it became a driving force of the spice trade in the East Indies, and it attracted European merchants, who by the 17th century were importing millions of pieces. In the 18th century, Indian chintz became so coveted globally that Europeans attempted to imitate its uniquely vibrant dyes and design-a quest that eventually sparked the mechanical and business innovations that ushered in the Industrial Revolution, with its far-reaching societal impacts. This beautifully illustrated book tells the fascinating and multidisciplinary stories of the widespread desire for Indian chintz over 1,000 years to its latest resurgence in modern fashion and home design. Based on the renowned Indian chintz collections held at the Royal Ontario Museum, the book showcases the genius of Indian chintz makers and the dazzling variety of works they have created for specialized markets: religious and court banners for India, monumental gilded wall hangings for elite homes in Europe and Thailand, luxury women's dress for England, sacred hangings for ancestral ceremonies in Indonesia, and today's runways of Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. Distributed for the Royal Ontario Museum Exhibition Schedule: Royal Ontario Museum (April 4-September 27, 2020)

Clothes the Deal is a savvy woman's guide to transformative personal style. In today's increasingly visual business world, personal style matters. A well-dressed woman conveys authority and confidence-critical traits for leading a team and driving revenue. Clothes the Deal shows women that enviable personal style isn't just for millennials and celebrities but is a skill they are more than qualified to master, with far less clothes than they ever imagined. Personal stylist and closet coach, Jenn Mapp Bressan, explains why closet size doesn't matter, the surprising places you store "closet fat", how to eliminate it for good, the 10 garments women need to create an endless wardrobe, and more. Featuring a foreword by the wildly talented and successful Christian Siriano, this handbook teaches readers how to master an enviable look-for work and play-that they can depend on for the rest of their life.

On April 24, 2021, the designer Alber Elbaz passed away due to complications from Covid-19. The artistic director of the House of Lanvin from 2001 to 2016, he was the most consequential figure from the fashion community lost to the pandemic. Love Brings Love, the celebration of Alber Elbaz s life and work that concluded Paris Fashion Week on October 5, 2021 remains a unique event in the recent history of the industry. In tribute, 44 designers, from nearly all the French and Italian maisons, to his dear friends in Japan and the United States, created dresses for a memorial fashion show the first collaborative one to have ever been held in Paris. Of the over 70 looks, thirty were by Alber, posthumously executed by his team at AZ Factory. The international fashion community came as one family to publicly mourn and remember one of their own, with a reverence and affection reserved only to someone so universally and genuinely loved. The book is divided into three parts, which includes texts written by Alber prior to his passing, a sequence of sketches by 44 designers/maisons, including Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons, Giambattista Valli, Gucci, John Paul Gaultier, Rick Owens, Valentino, on uncoated stock, and a section of completed dresses, including dresses designed by Alber, on matte coated stock. The sequence describes in ways both conceptual and material how his friends and peers saw him, and how they intimately honored his memory with their own work.

This is your complete guide to dressmaking, from designing, creating and customising your clothes. Master every dressmaking technique in the book! Fully illustrated and easy to use, this updated dressmaking book covers all the essential skills and techniques you need to make timeless wardrobe staples. It's a must-have for beginners and expert stitchers alike. Inside the pages of this reference book, you'll discover: - Step-by-step instructions and techniques, accompanied by clear, full-colour photography - Thorough sections on tools and equipment, to help the reader choose the right items for each project - 13 downloadable patterns for skirts, dresses, trousers, tops, and jackets that can be used to create 31 different garments - Over 80 techniques, including how to cut out a pattern, machine stitch, and hand stitch - Projects graded by difficulty level so as you can challenge yourself; whether you are a beginner, or looking for more advanced ideas Fed up with fast fashion and fancy making your own clothes? This is the ultimate dressmaking guide for absolute beginners. Comprehensive, step-by-step guides and dressmaking patterns cover everything from choosing the perfect fabric for any project to trying your hand at a range of machine-sewing techniques. Accompanied by close-up photographs, clear instructions, and a glossary of dressmaking terminology to demystify even the trickiest technique. This book will help you advance from a sewing learner to a seasoned stitcher in no time. Zoomed-in photographs of hand and machine tools show you the best dressmaking equipment for the job and teach you exactly how to use it. The Essential Guide to Dressmaking An updated edition of The Dressmaking Book that guides you through every hand stitch, machine stitch, and sewing technique you'll ever need. We've included the best way to stitch, alter, put in linings, seam and hem, so you can make your favourite bespoke outfits to suit your unique style. Old edition 9781409384632

Dating back to the fifth millennium BCE, India's rich and vibrant textile tradition boasts an enormous range of techniques and extraordinary level of artistry. Drawn from one of the world's finest collections of Indian textiles, this book presents a fascinating overview of centuries of artistic production from every corner of India. Each section examines a different region to reveal its distinct textile traditions, patterns, and processes: Patola silks from Gujarat, brocade lampas preserved in Tibetan temples, mordant resist dyed cottons from Indonesia, embroideries from rural Bengal, and silk saris from Murshidabad. The book also delves into the roles that textiles have played in daily life over the centuries, from household and dowry textiles to devotional pieces and exquisite materials crafted for rich patrons. Each object is photographed from multiple angles and reproduced in meticulous detail. Many of the antique pieces featured here are exceedingly rare, which makes this book an invaluable resource. Gorgeously illustrated, this volume makes a stunning gift for anyone interested in the history and craftmanship of one of the world's oldest textile traditions.

Tiaras are symbols of power and sophistication that Chaumet has mastered throughout 240 years of history crowning the beauty of prestigious clients, from Napoleon s wife, Empress Josephine, to contem-porary icons. Celebrating their most emblematic examples, this exceptional piece of bookmaking features colourful illustrations and short stories. The ten tableaux, each highlighting one iconic Chaumet piece, invite readers to travel through space and time: strolling in the Malmaison garden with Napoleon and Josephine; partying during the Roaring Twenties; wandering under the shade of Japanese cherry blossom trees; or dancing on a rooftop in contemporary Shanghai. Timeless and universal, the stories will appeal to a wide audience while intricate details of the laser-cut dioramas captivate the eye. An invitation to daydream, these scenes reflect an enchanting tale that readers can discover in one sitting or indulge in separately, according to their mood.

When war was declared in September 1939, young people around the world were expected to put on a uniform and fight in a conflict not of their making. They may have been dressed in regulation khaki or air force blue, or restricted by rationing, but driven by angst, patriotism and survival, they took every opportunity to express themselves by adapting their clothing. Away from the war their lives were shaped by swing music and its fashions, allowing individualism to flourish despite repression and offering a rebellious reaction to the fearful sound of jackboots marching in unison. It was a time of new identities, factions and hierarchies. From the British Tommies and the American GIs, to the 'Glamour Boys' of the RAF, the 'Spitfire Girls' of the ATA and members of the French Resistance, Kitted Out is a fresh take on the history of the Second World War through a fashionable eye. The poignant and inspiring stories behind the uniforms, styles and self-expression in Britain, the United States, North Africa and occupied Europe will be painfully resonant to a new generation of young people.

Recent Advances in Decolorization and Degradation of Dyes in Textile Effluent by Biological Approaches outlines various eco-friendly, cost effective methods for removal of toxic textile dyes. Large amounts of dye are unbound and released into the environment due to inefficient dyeing processes. The release of wastewater containing dye into the environment has several adverse effects as it is toxic, mutagenic and has other undesirable effects on living organisms. Hence, it is necessary to remove these dyes from industrial effluents to have a sustainable environment. This book deals with conventional as well as advanced effective treatment methods for the removal of dyes in order to increase the domain knowledge of readers. Salient features: Describes physico-chemical characteristics of textile effluent, dye classes and toxicity of dyes commonly used in the textile industry Assembles effective approaches which are used to remove dyes from textile effluent prior to their release into the environment Presents several advanced approaches such as genetic engineering, nanotechnology, immobilized cells or enzymes, biofilms and microbial fuel cells, etc. for the removal of dyes.