In this facsimile of a handwritten leather-bound journal, Pierre Berge, the longtime partner of Yves Saint Laurent, remembers their life together In this handwritten, personal memoir, Pierre Berge recalls his life with Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco. He remembers their arrival in Marrakech in 1966, their first home purchased together, and their exploration of Morocco and its fascinating light. He remembers friends-Loulou de La Falaise, Fernando Sanchez, Andy Warhol, Betty Catroux-who, like them, chose to live in Morocco, or who accompanied them on their adventure. He awakens the past with personal photographs, many published for the first time, and drawings and watercolors by Lawrence Mynott that evoke the magic of Morocco. This moving, intimate book, bound to resemble a leather journal, offers a rare glimpse into the personal life of the celebrated designer, revealing how Morocco's vibrant culture and extraordinary landscapes inspired some of YSL's greatest collections.

Guiding you through key fashion drawing and design techniques, this title contains self-explanatory drawings, photographs of the fashion model, together with artwork from international designers and illustrators, demonstrating the accepted design standards used in the fashion industry.

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.

The unexpected story of an essential 18th and 19th century accessory This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women's everyday lives-from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen-and to explore their consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity. A wealth of evidence reveals unexpected facets of the past, bringing women's stories into intimate focus. "What particularly interests Burman and Fennetaux is the way in which women of all classes have historically used these tie-on pockets as a supplementary body part to help them negotiate their way through a world that was not built to suit them."-Kathryn Hughes, The Guardian "A riveting book . . . few stones are left unturned."-Roberta Smith's "Top Art Books of 2019," The New York Times "A brilliant book."-Ulinka Rublack, Times Literary Supplement

Muses of attitude, brains and confidence come together in this glossy compendium of the female icons who use their personal style and influence to change the way we look and dress. From the obvious to the outrageous, Frida Kahlo to Cara Delevingne, 100 Women * 100 Styles profiles the personalities of each woman, showing what made them who they are, and how they can inspire you.

Ever wondered why Yayoi Kusama dresses in dots or dreamt of asking Picasso: why the Breton tee? Enter sARTorial, a fun guide to the signature looks of 60 key artists from the 19th century to today. Short texts unpack the style essentials of icons such as Claude Monet to millennials including Tauba Auerbach, revealing how they construct their looks and why it reflects the works they create. Featuring fantastic images of the artists in all their splendour, sARTorial is essential reading for anyone looking to decode the 'drobe, and gain valuable insight into the cult of the artist.

Fashion Sewing: Advanced Techniques guides the reader through a range of intermediate and advanced skills, such as tailoring, sewing with knits, inserting linings and facings and how to sew a wide range of design variations for collars, pockets and sleeves. The detailed step-by-step instructions are easy to follow, with clear accompanying illustrations. This comprehensive guide is an ideal accompaniment to the first book in the series, Fashion Sewing: Introductory Techniques, but it will also enable those with little sewing experience to master their fashion sewing skills and create beautiful, professional-looking garments.

Fifty major fashion designers are profiled in this book with full-color spreads that showcase their most memorable creations. Red carpet regulars such as Armani, Prada, Calvin Klein, and Dolce & Gabbana are included, as well as the classic clothiers Christian Dior, Karl Lagerfield, and Oscar de La Renta. While some of these designers have designed for the masses - Ralph Lauren and Diane von Furstenberg - others prefer the avant-garde over function; Vivienne Westwood, for instance. Readers will learn how the early 20th-century designers such as Coco Chanel and Andre Courreges made fashion history, and discover who's making it now: Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford, to name a few. A celebration of diversity and innovation and an essential handbook to a century of fashion, this exciting and informative look into the world of style will delight readers of every taste and age.

The story of India's exuberantly colored textiles that made their mark on design, technology, and trade around the world Chintz, a type of multicolored printed or painted cotton cloth, originated in India yet exerted influence far beyond its home shores: it became a driving force of the spice trade in the East Indies, and it attracted European merchants, who by the 17th century were importing millions of pieces. In the 18th century, Indian chintz became so coveted globally that Europeans attempted to imitate its uniquely vibrant dyes and design-a quest that eventually sparked the mechanical and business innovations that ushered in the Industrial Revolution, with its far-reaching societal impacts. This beautifully illustrated book tells the fascinating and multidisciplinary stories of the widespread desire for Indian chintz over 1,000 years to its latest resurgence in modern fashion and home design. Based on the renowned Indian chintz collections held at the Royal Ontario Museum, the book showcases the genius of Indian chintz makers and the dazzling variety of works they have created for specialized markets: religious and court banners for India, monumental gilded wall hangings for elite homes in Europe and Thailand, luxury women's dress for England, sacred hangings for ancestral ceremonies in Indonesia, and today's runways of Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai. Distributed for the Royal Ontario Museum Exhibition Schedule: Royal Ontario Museum (April 4-September 27, 2020)

Men in khaki and grey squatting in the trenches, women at work, gender bending in goggles and overalls over their trousers, a girl at the Paris theatre in pleated, beaded silk, a bangle on her forearm made from copper fuse wire from the Somme. What people wear matters. Copiously illustrated, this book is the story of what people on both sides wore on the front line and on the home front through the seismic years of World War I. Nina Edwards, reveals fresh aspects of the war through the prism of the smallest details of personal dress, of clothes, hair and accessories, both in uniform and civilian wear. She explores how, during a period of extraordinary upheaval and rapid change, a particular preference for a type of razor blade or perfume, say, or the just-so adjustment to the tilt of a hat, offer insights into the individual experience of men, women and children during the course of World War I.

Who has not, well arranged in a cupboard, well folded, or under cover, a garment emblematic of its history: the one that we do not want to get rid of! Often abondoned with regret, we dream of postponing it. But its usury or its size disuades us. Souvenir of trave, timeless but worn, imprinted by the memory of a loved one, to classical but percisely our size, too strict also, chine in a frippe, we keep it intact and it moves with us! The seven workshops in this book explain how to redo the patterns of these garments without undoing them in order to preserve them. You will find pullover, pants, shirt and corsage but also dress and jackets. Using a variety of very simple techniques, you will be able to extract a pattern that you can transform to your taste to give your new garment a look that will only belong to you! Passionate about clothes, fabrics and cutting techniques in that it reveals the history of the wearer, Claire Wargnier has been dreaming of this work for a long time in order to allow everyone to redo a garment full of emotion and of experience. It was based on the technicality of Nathalie Coppin, professor of model CAD at ESMOD Paris, able to respond to the technique of patronage explained step by step in this book.

What do you use every day that is small and large, worthless and beyond price? It's easily found in the gutter, yet you may never be able to replace it. You are always losing it but it faithfully protects you; sexy and uptight, it is knitted in to your affections or it may give you nightmares. It has led to conflict, fostered and repressed political and religious change and epitomizes the great aesthetic movements. It's Eurocentric, and is found all over the world. On the Button is an inventive and unusual exploration of the cultural history of the button, illustrated with a multiplicity of buttons in black and white and colour. It tells tales of a huge variety of the button's forms and functions, its sometimes uncompromising glamour, its stronghold in fashion and literature, its place in the visual arts, its association with crime and death, its tender call to nostalgia and the sentimental. There have been works addressed to the button collector and general cultural histories. On the Button links the two, revealing why we are so attracted to buttons, and how they punch way above their weight.

Christian Dior famously noted that "the real proof of an elegant woman is what is on her feet." From the surprisingly sexy boots hiding under Victorian crinolines to the glittering T-strap heels worn by flappers dancing the Charleston, a woman's shoe choice has long been far more than a mundane practicality. Indeed, a beautifully shaped shoe can be a statement of wealth, style, or sexuality - and often all at once. This petite volume presents 250 eye-catching examples from the 17th century to the present, including many of today's top designers such as Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Roger Vivier, and Nicholas Kirkwood. Fashion historian Raissa Bretana introduces each new era with a concise overview of the period's fashionable styles and innovations. A must for shoe collectors and a delight for any fashionista, this Tiny Folio (TM) will inspire you to put your best foot forward.

This volume brings together a stunning collection of contemporary sculpture and installation art made for the world at large. The featured artists have reached new heights of creativity and ingenuity, resulting in pieces that are exemplary expressions of culture and place. These projects seek not only to represent the societies around them, but also to engage them through interactive features and designs that are made to be climbed, walked through, sat on and programmed. Public Art is an essential resource for all those interested in art created for the community. Highlights include LAVA's Digital Origami Emergency Shelter, the Eden Project's biomes, which form the largest plant enclosure in the world, Aether & Hemera's Voyage, a display of three hundred paper boats with interactive LED lights, and Tonkin Lui's symbol of hope for renewable energy, Future Flower, which uses small wind turbines to power its lights.

In Exquisite Slaves, Tamara J. Walker examines how slaves used elegant clothing as a language for expressing attitudes about gender and status in the wealthy urban center of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Lima, Peru. Drawing on traditional historical research methods, visual studies, feminist theory, and material culture scholarship, Walker argues that clothing was an emblem of not only the reach but also the limits of slaveholders' power and racial domination. Even as it acknowledges the significant limits imposed on slaves' access to elegant clothing, Exquisite Slaves also showcases the insistence and ingenuity with which slaves dressed to convey their own sense of humanity and dignity. Building on other scholars' work on slaves' agency and subjectivity in examining how they made use of myriad legal discourses and forums, Exquisite Slaves argues for the importance of understanding the body itself as a site of claims-making.

Combining transnationalism and exoticism, transorientalism is the new orientalism of the age of globalization. With its roots in earlier times, it is a term that emphasizes alteration, mutation, and exchange between cultures. While the familiar orientalisms persist, transorientalism is a term that covers notions like the adoption of a hat from a different country for Turkish nationalist dress, the fact that an Italian could be one of the most influential directors in recent Chinese cinema, that Muslim women artists explore Islamic womanhood in non-Islamic countries, that artists can embrace both indigenous and non-indigenous identity at the same time. This is more than nostalgia or bland nationalism. It is a reflection of the effect that communication and representation in recent decades have brought to the way in which national identity is crafted and constructed-yet this does not make it any less authentic. The diversity of race and culture, the manner in which they are expressed and transacted, are most evident in art, fashion, and film. This much-needed book offers a refreshing, informed, and incisive account of a paradigm shift in the ways in which identity and otherness is moulded, perceived, and portrayed.

This wonderfully practical book literally shows you how to make costumes for plays, pageants and musicals at the lowest possible expense! Over 150 detailed illustrations work with the easy-to-follow text to walk you through every step of the process. Just about every basic period is covered: Biblical to Medieval, Renaissance, Angels, The Fabulous Fifties, 1800s to World War I, The Roaring Twenties and more. Many helpful hints on making or buying realistic period theatrical costumes on a shoestring budget from cast-offs, donations, scraps and other easily-obtained materials. Also included are "special effects" costumes, helpful hints for getting into and out of costumes, and a glossary of costuming terms. A book that will pay for itself with its first use. Contents: Resources: Where Do I Start?, Period Costumes, Who Was That Masked Man?, Undemeath it All, Helpful Hints and Useful Information, The Play's the Thing, Epilogue: Behind the Scenes, Glossary.

So you've mastered the basics in shirtmaking and you are looking to create your own couture blouses, dress shirts, or jackets... Well, you are in luck then. David Page Coffin, author of "Shirtmaking," is back to help you through amazing custom patterns for men and women Inside you'll find a helpful guide explaining specific concepts, structures, and styles, such as: Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block, Sport (or Unshaped) Shirt Block, Knit (or Stretch-to-Fit) Shirt Block, Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block, and Shirt-Jacket (or Over-Sized) Block. "The Shirtmaking Workbook" also includes lists for further reading, suppliers, and references to help make your custom shirtmaking easier. With these shirtmaking basics, you'll be creating hundreds of fashionable designs in no time

African wax print fabric is trending!As understanding diversity and inclusivity is rising, interest in this traditional African art form is increasing likewise. African fabric is an inexhaustible source of inspiration for sewists and designers; the gorgeous, colorful fabric inspires new ideas and patterns for creating one-of-a-kind pieces. In-depth instructions and solutions guide your way to making beautiful and bold skirts, tops, elegant dresses, and much more. Add a touch of beautiful African prints to your abode with cushions, a basket, and a flowerpot. Readers will also learn how to care for the wax fabric to enjoy pieces for years to come. 20 projects for women's garments and accessoriesSewists and designers around the world are using African wax fabricBeautiful and bold prints add a huge pop of color to any wardrobe

"Fashion is balance, with a dash of theatre," was Nino Cerruti's favourite bon mot. This monograph, the most substantial on him to date, is an entertaining and gorgeously illustrated homage to the great Italian fashion designer, whose deconstructed jackets and supple fabrics revolutionised menswear in the 1960s. He took over the family business, which his father established in 1881, at the age of 20 and immediately began to make his mark. In 1965 he opened a boutique in Paris where he launched women's fashion, being the first designer to focus on pants (this at a time when many restaurants in Paris denied women entry if they were wearing pants). He dressed generations of movie stars, both on and off screen, including Jean-Paul Belmondo, Yves Montand, Catherine Deneuve, Richard Gere (wearing a Cerruti suit in Pretty Woman), Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas, Tom Hanks, and Kathleen Turner, among others. This book showcases the elegant nonchalance and uncompromising creativity that went into his designs and follows his career as one of the great pioneers of 20th century fashion.

Veiling in Fashion enters the worlds of women who wear the hijab, both as an aspect of their religious observance and community belonging, and as a fashion statement, drawing upon global Islamic fashion history. The book uses rich ethnographic investigation of everyday veiling practices among Muslim women in the city of Helsinki as a lens through which to reflect on and advance understanding of matters concerning Muslim dress in international Muslim minority contexts. The book provides an innovative approach to studying veiling by connecting varied realms of practice, demonstrating how domains as apparently separate as fashion, materiality, city spaces, private life, religious beliefs, and cosmopolitan social conditions are all tightly bound up together in ways that only a sensitive multi-disciplinary approach can reveal. It will appeal to scholars and students in fashion, gender, religion, material cultures, and the construction of space.

D_Tex is proposed as a hub around which it is possible to look at textiles in their different forms, in order to better understand, study, adapt and project them for the future. It is intended to build a flow of ideas and concepts so that participants can arrive at new ideas and concepts and work them in their own way, adapting them to their objectives and research. D_Tex is intended as a space for sharing and building knowledge around textile material in order to propose new understandings and explorations. Present in all areas of knowledge, the textile material bets on renewed social readings and its evolutions to constantly reinvent itself and enable innovative cultural and aesthetic dimensions and unexpected applications to solve questions and promote new knowledge. D_Tex proposes to promote discussion and knowledge in the different areas where textiles, with all their characteristics, can ensure an important contribution, combining material and immaterial knowledge, innovative and traditional techniques, technological and innovative materials and methods, but also new organization and service models, different concepts and views on teaching. With the renewed idea of the intrinsic interdisciplinarity of design and sharing with different areas that support each other, the research and practice of textiles was proposed by the D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2019, held June 19-21, 2019 at the Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal under the theme "In Touch" where, as broadly understood as possible, different areas of textiles were regarded as needing to keep in touch with each other and end users in order to promote and share the best they can offer for the welfare of their users and consumers.