In this visually stunning book, Lauren speaks candidly about himself and his art. In part one, we get to know the designer through never-before-seen pictures of him in private life and with his family, living the lives he designs for. In the second part, Lauren displays and writes about his most iconic and most beloved work, handpicked from hundreds of collections and his signature cinematic advertising campaigns. Lauren s aesthetic influence and unique design sensibility are captured here by fashion s finest photographers, including Bruce Weber, Deborah Turbeville, and Patrick Demarchelier.

Artificial intelligence (AI) now infiltrates our culture. After a couple of difficult winters, AI today is a word on everybody's lips, and it attracts everyone's attention regardless of whether they are experts or not. From Apple's Siri to Amazon's Alexa, Tesla's auto-driving cars to facial recognition systems in CCTV cameras, Netflix's film offering services to Google's search engine, we live in a world of AI goods. The advent of AI-powered technologies increasingly affects people's lives across the globe. As a tool for productivity and cost-efficiency, AI also shapes our economy and welfare. AI-generated designs and works are becoming more popular. Today, AI technologies can generate several intellectual creations. Fashion is one of the industries that AI can profoundly impact. AI tools and devices are currently being used in the fashion industry to create fashion models, fabric and jewellery designs, and clothing. When we talk about AI-generated designs, we instead focus on the fruits of innovation - more best-selling apparels, more fashionable designs and more fulfilment of customer expectations - without paying heed to who the designer is. Designers invest a lot of talent, time and finances into designing and creating each article of clothing and accessory before they release their work to the public. Pattern drafting is the first and most important step in dressmaking. Designers typically start with a general sketch on paper; add styles, elements and colours; revise and refine everything; and finally deliver their design to dressmakers. AI accelerates this time-consuming and labour-intensive process. Yet the full legal consequences of AI in fashion industry are often forgotten. An AI device's ability to generate fashion designs raises the question of who will own intellectual property rights over the fashion designs. Will it be the fashion designer who hires or contracts with the AI programmer? Will it be the programmer? Will it be the AI itself? Or will it be a joint work of humans and computers? And who will be liable for infringement deriving from use of third-party material in AI-generated fashion designs? This book explores answers to these questions within the framework of EU design and copyright laws. It also crafts a solution proposal based on a three-step test and model norms, which could be used to unleash the authors, rights holders and infringers around AI-generated fashion designs.

New modes of making and innovations in materials are inspiring shoe designers to challenge what shoes can look and feel like. This book explores today s most futuristic footwear designs, from the use of new technologies such as 3-D printing and smart technology to the invention of sustainable materials, including leather made from mushrooms and soles made from reclaimed ocean plastics. It also examines footwear design in the virtual world where adherence to things like comfort and gravity are no longer part of the equation. The importance of sneakers in games such as Grand Theft Auto and Fortnite are explored as is the new enthusiasm for collectable non-fungible token (NFT) sneakers that are being acquired for tens of thousands of dollars for a single pair. In-depth interviews with of-the-moment designers, including Iris van Herpen, the team at RTFKT, Steven Smith, Eric Avar, Alexander Taylor, and more, all conducted by the author, dive deep into the creative process, influences, and the future of shoe design. The introduction offers an overview of great footwear innovations from the past that have kept us a step ahead.

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches - including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.

Featuring over 100 images, including step-by-step examples illustrating how to improve costume renderings. This is an invaluable resource for students in Costume Rendering and Costume Design courses, along with professional costume designers looking to improve their rendering skills. Written to complement any rendering style.

Lingerie and sleepwear is a large sector of the fashion industry. Most brands from designer to the high street have a lingerie line and most fashion design courses will have a lingerie elective. In this book, Pamela Powell takes a very practical approach, showing how to design and construct lingerie, sleepwear and foundation garments. Step-by-step illustrations demonstrate the basic blocks and show how to manipulate them into different styles. Advice is given about how to work with the speciality fabrics used in the industry including woven, knit, power stretch and bias-cut fabrics. Specially commissioned photographs and diagrams are used to showcase construction techniques specific to lingerie including boning, elastic and lace insertion and how and where to use the myriad of closures available. A final chapter on embellishment shows how to add unique and personal touches to garments and apply that luxurious finish.

"It's a piece of art that I am really proud of" -Rihanna All hail Rihanna: Queen Size The statement volume for Rihanna fans, this luxury, queen-size edition is limited to 500 copies worldwide. An homage for fashion, music, and photography lovers and collectors, Rihanna: Queen Size is presented in a format worthy of the global legend herself. From her Barbados beginnings to her worldwide tours, from iconic fashion moments to private time with friends and family, Rihanna: Queen Size showcases intimate photographs of the star's evolution as an artist, performer, designer, and entrepreneur. Rihanna: Queen Size is hand-sewn and bound in bespoke padded Japanese-designed fabric with a pearlescent finish, and an embedded, matte black, laser-cut steel logo designed by Barnbrook studio. The endpapers feature a custom design by The Haas Brothers printed in spot gloss on a rich black paper stock. Rihanna's remarkable story unfolds in 504 pages and more than 1,000 images along with gatefolds and special inserts including bound-in booklets, a die-cut tip-in sheet, and a double-sided removable poster.

Despite the growing demand for design strategies to reduce our petroleum use, no one has yet brought together the lessons of the world's leading post-petroleum designers into a single resource. Post-Petroleum Design brings them together for the first time. Readers will be introduced to the most current, innovative, plastic-and petroleum-free products and projects in industrial design, architecture, transportation, electronics, apparel and more. Post-Petroleum Design explores firsthand the client and consumer motivations behind the demand, and shares the case studies, principles, best practices, risks and opportunities of the world's leading post-petroleum design experts who are already meeting that demand. It introduces 40 inspiring individuals from across the globe; people like Eben Bayer, the American innovator whose company, Ecovative, is growing houses from mushrooms; Mohammed Bah Abba, whose Zeer Pot is helping families keep produce fresh in the sweltering Nigerian summer without electricity; and the engineers at Mercedes-Benz Advanced Design Studios whose Biome car evolves from genetically engineered DNA. Post-Petroleum Design gives design professionals the information they need to research, evaluate, and select materials, technologies and design strategies that meet the growing demand for sustainable design, plastic-free materials and process energy conservation. Designer profiles, studies, statistics and many colour illustrations all highlight the work-some of the best design work to be found anywhere, and showcased here for the first time.

This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of "Layla and Majnun" and "Khusrau and Shirin" that appear on early modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural designs, the study presents original cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.

This book documents a collection of approximately 90 Paracas textiles. The collection consists of cloaks, ponchos, tunics, as well as some smaller fragments such as ribbons. Originally housed at the Ethnographic Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, the objects were returned to Peru during 2019 and 2020. Paracas textiles tell the story of the people living in Peru more than 2000 years ago and how they saw and viewed the world. In cultures without a written language imagery is very important. Textile pictures were created from the depths of the human senses, from thoughts and dreams. The makers of the Paracas textiles depict fantastic stories from their time and culture about creation, death and thoughts about life. Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson has studied, inventoried and analysed the Paracas textiles for decades, and cracked codes about how they were made. She also has pioneering theories about what they want to say and how the unbroken thread symbolises life. In this text, Kerstin documents and explains the secret behind these fantastic 2000-year-old textiles.

A celebration of the wonderful creative intersection between the architecture of Peter Marino and the aesthetic of fashion-house Chanel - a behind-the-scenes look at the buildings designed by Marino for Chanel in Chicago, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Los Angeles, Nanjing, New York, Miami, Osaka, Seoul, Singapore, and Tokyo This stunning celebration of the 25-year collaboration between two remarkable legends - the fashion house Chanel and Peter Marino - through a stunning collection of buildings that Marino designed to elevate Chanel's luxury retail spaces to the realm of fine art. With more than 300 stunning images, including architectural plans and original sketches by Marino together with an introduction by New York Times and Architectural Digest contributor Pilar Viladas, an interview by creator of Pin-Up magazine Felix Burrichter, and project descriptions by local writers, each perfectly placed to discuss Marino's work in its geographical context, this book features all 16 Chanel buildings worldwide for which Marino designed both the buildings and interiors - from the USA to Asia. Through his dedication to his craft and expert devotion to Coco Chanel's vision and resolutely modern spirit, Marino has ushered Chanel into a new age, all while perfecting the always elusive art of the timeless in architecture and design.

This book takes an in-depth look at the integration of fashion and philosophy. It challenges the deeply rooted prejudice or misconception that fashion is a field limited to body-oriented and appearance-related themes and practices. It also reveals that fashion is intermeshed with distinctively modern issues that belong to the realm of the mind as well as the body. In doing so, it refashions philosophy and philosophizes fashion, which ultimately amount to the same thing. The book argues that while the philosophization of fashion can give a clearer understanding of some esoteric areas of philosophy and fashion's close connection to modern societies and politics, it also shows that philosophy can assist in redeeming fashion from the objective, bodily world, positioning it as an indispensable part of the humanities. This is because fashion manifests critical aspects of human culture in our time, and is an expression of the zeitgeist, which is interwoven with the unfolding of history. This book will be highly relevant to students and researchers in fashion studies who are looking for the theoretical underpinnings and insights for their own work. It will also be of keen interest to scholars in the field of philosophy who are seeking to apply philosophical concepts to both everyday life and our empirical world.

The subject of religion and dress in Turkey has been debated at great length both in academia and the media. Through in-depth ethnographic research into the Turkish fashion market and the work of a category of new comers, namely headscarf-wearing fashion professionals, Islam, Faith, and Fashion examines entrepreneurship in this market and the aesthetic desirability, religious suitability, and ethical credibility of fashionable Islamic dress. What makes a fashionable outfit Islamically appropriate? What makes an Islamically appropriate outfit fashionable? What are the conditions, challenges and constraints an entrepreneur faces in this market, and how do they market their products? Is the presumed oxymoronic nature of Islamic fashion a challenge or a burden? Through case studies and ethnographic portraits, Craciun questions the commercialization of Islamic dress and tackles the delicate and often incompatible relationship between clothing worn in recognition of religious belief and clothing worn purely because it is fashionable. This timely analysis of fashion, religion, ethics, and aesthetics presents dress as a disputed and a contested locus of modernity. Islam, Faith, and Fashion will be essential reading for students of fashion, anthropology, and material and visual culture.

The Polo shirt is to Ralph Lauren what Mickey Mouse is to Disney or the Empire State Building is to New York City. Whether worn with the collar popped up, open and untucked, or dressed up under a suit jacket, the Polo embodies the optimism of American style. In Lauren s words, It s honest and from the heart and hopefully that is what touches the diversity of all who wear it. It was never about a shirt, but a way of living. Featuring a gallery of stars from the worlds of sports, politics, film, and music from Leonardo DiCaprio and Spike Lee, to Bill Clinton and Oprah Winfrey, to Pharrell Williams and Venus Williams as well as everyday people who make the Polo their canvas for self-expression, The Polo Shirt looks at the enduring cool of a wardrobe classic. Included are the full range of colours, styles, and fits the shirt has been produced in during its more than 50 year history. From the classic white to the weathered Polo, from the striped Polo to the US Olympic, US Open, and Wimbledon Championship collaborations, this catalogue celebrates the full spectrum of the Polo, making it a collector s dream.

Fashion is both big business and big news. From models eating disorders and sweated labour to the glamour of a new season's trends, statements and arguments about fashion and the fashion industry can be found in every newspaper, consumer website and fashion blog. Books which define, analyse and explain the nature, production and consumption of fashion in terms of one theory or another abound. But what "are" the theories that run through all of these analyses, and how can they help us to understand fashion and clothing?

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Fashion Theory: an introduction" explains some of the most influential and important theories on fashion: it brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion every day and shows how they depend on those theories. This clear, accessible introduction contextualises and critiques the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used different theoretical approaches to explain and sometimes to explain away the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Through engaging examples and case studies, this book explores:

• fashion and clothing in history
• fashion and clothing as communication
• fashion as identity
• fashion, clothing and the body
• production and consumption
• fashion, globalization and colonialism
• fashion, fetish and the erotic.

This book will be an invaluable resource for students of cultural studies, sociology, gender studies, fashion design, textiles or the advertising, marketing and manufacturing of clothes."

Goths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures of recent times. The dedication of those involved to a lifestyle which, from the outside, may appear dark and sinister, has spawned reactions ranging from admiration to alarm. Until now, no one has conducted a full-scale ethnographic study of this fascinating subcultural group. Based on extensive research by an 'insider', this is the first. Immersing us in the potent mix of identities, practices and values that make up the goth scene, the author takes us behind the faade of the goth mystique. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, Hodkinson details the inner workings of this intriguing group. Defying postmodern theories that claim media and commerce break down substantive cultural groupings, Hodkinson shows how both have been used by goths to retain, and even strengthen, their group identity. Hodkinson provides a comprehensive reworking of subcultural theory, making a key contribution to the disciplines of sociology, cultural studies, youth studies, media studies, and popular music studies. Readable and accessible, this groundbreaking book presents a unique chance to engage with a contemporary, spectacular culture.

A new edition as part of the Faber Greatest Hits - books that have taken writing about music in new and exciting directions for the twenty-first century. Re-make/Re-model tells the little known and fascinating story of the individuals and circumstances which combined to form the groundbreaking band Roxy Music -- how the art school avant-garde of the 1960s met the sweat, luck and attitude of chart-topping pop. Written with the co-operation of all of those involved, including Bryan Ferry, Brian Eno, Andy Mackay and Phil Manzanera, this is also the definitive account of a new pop vision that would dominate the 1970s. From student digs and provincial nightclubs to emerald-green eyeshadow and fake leopard skin, Re-make/Re-model is about a band which invented an era.

Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.

A wooden box holds the buttons of three generations of women in Lynn Knight's family - each one with its own tale to tell... Tracing the story of women at home and in work, from the jet buttons of Victorian mourning, to the short skirts of the 1960s, taking in suffragettes, bachelor girls, little dressmakers, Biba and the hankering for vintage, The Button Box lifts the lid on women's lives and their clothes with elegance and wit.

In 2002, when Carol Lim and Humberto Leon opened the downtown Manhattan retail shop Opening Ceremony, they created what has become the most innovative fashion and culture destination in New York. Bringing together the best emerging American talent with international designers and historic brands, Opening Ceremony represents the best in fashion and has played a vital role in launching the careers of many young designers. Celebrating the company s tenth anniversary, Opening Ceremony is a visually rich documentation of Leon and Lim s diverse inspirations, collaborators, and creative community, including Ryan McGinley, Rodarte, and Alexander Wang. A celebratory look at New York s quintessential style headquarters, this book will captivate and inspire readers from fashion, art, music, film, and beyond.

Fashion Drawing is a comprehensive, practical guide to fashion drawing for students of fashion design.This second edition features brand new illlustrations reflecting developments in pose, presentation and digital design, plus guidance on creating technical flats. * Step-by-step tutorials show how to create fashion drawings for women, men and children, and adapt them for different markets * More than 1000 illustrations depict work from leading designers and illustrators revealing a wide variety of approaches * Discover how to render fabrics, textures and effects, from faux fur and metallics to prints, woven and knitted materials * Includes an illustrated glossary of garment and fabric details and an extensive resource section

Enter the fascinating world of conversion costuming! Make your own theatrical costumes for less than a day's rental price and make them your way without any conventional sewing using patterns. Included in this book are more than 110 ingenious costume designs with photos and diagrams. Great costumes for standard theatrical characters like: Princess, Prince, Clown, Devil, Witch, Medieval Lady, Elves, Peter Pan, Captain Hook, Pinocchio and many more. Also, costumes for the leading characters in popular shows: Camelot, Oklahoma, Guys and Dolls, King and I, Pirates of Penzance and more. These conversion ideas will save you time, money and deadline disasters and give you precisely the costume you want. Section headings: Materials, Theatrical Costumes, Christmas Costumes, Storybook Costumes, Quick and Easy Costumes, Appendix.

Discover the rich creative possibilities of fragmentation and repair in textile art.Fragmentation and repair are two of the biggest buzzwords in textile and mixed-media art. In this fascinating book, renowned artist Shelley Rhodes explores both concepts, with a wealth of fresh ideas and practical advice.Drawing on her own practice, Shelley explains how she reconstructs and reassembles cloth, paper and other materials to create new pieces, often incorporating found objects and items she has collected over the years to add depth and emotional resonance. From piercing and devore to patching and darning, techniques include: *Fragmentation of materials, text and image. *Repair using darning and patching along with pins, tape, adhesive and plaster. *The Japanese concepts of wabi-sabi (finding beauty in imperfection) and mottainai (using every last scrap). *Using salvaged and recycled materials, and repurposing household items. *Methods of distressing and manipulating surfaces including weathering, abrasion, burning, piercing, staining and burying. *Collage, working in a series and collecting fragments.Beautifully illustrated with Shelley's own pieces alongside those of other leading artists, this fascinating book is the ideal companion for any textile artist wanting to bring notions of fragility, fragmentation and repair into their own work.

Exploring 35 years of creative output, this richly illustrated book offers an unprecedented look into Giorgio Armani's unique aesthetic, corporate and cultural strategies. More than any other designer, Armani best represents the global success of the 'Made in Italy' label. His impact is palpable not simply in women's fashion and red carpet glamour, but is also inseparable from the evolution of the menswear industry. Written in a lively and accessible style, the book includes thoughtful and provocative chapters exploring: the evolution of the man's suit; boutique culture in a global reality; the influence of Orientalism; the designer's ambivalent relationship with the fashion press; the business of vertical branding; the use of the evening dress to construct the house's history; power dressing for the modern woman; the relationship between textiles, film and the contours of masculinity; the continued dialogue with early twentieth-century aesthetics; as well as the spaces and bodies of the theatre of fashion. The first holistic and critical investigation of one of the most influential fashion houses in the world, Giorgio Armani: Empire of the Senses is a must read for anyone interested in the history and theories of fashion.