Featuring over 100 images, including step-by-step examples illustrating how to improve costume renderings. This is an invaluable resource for students in Costume Rendering and Costume Design courses, along with professional costume designers looking to improve their rendering skills. Written to complement any rendering style.

The importance of fashion and design in an events context remains under-researched, despite their ubiquity and significance from a societal and economic perspective. Fashion-themed events, for example, appeal to broad audiences and may tour the globe. Staging these events might help to brand destinations, boost visitor numbers and trigger popular debates about the contributions that fashion and design can make to identity. They may also tell us something about our culture and wider society. This edited volume for the first time examines fashion and design events from a social perspective, including the meanings they bestow and their potential economic, cultural and personal impacts. It explores the reasons for their popularity and influence, and provides a critique of their growth in different markets. Events examined include fashion weeks, fashion or design themed exhibitions, historical re-enactments, extreme/alternative fashion and design events, and large-scale public events such as royal weddings and horse races. International examples and case studies are drawn from countries as diverse as the USA, UK, Germany, Bhutan, New Zealand and Australia. These are used to develop and critique various thematic concepts linked to fashion and design events, such as identity, gender, aspirations and self-image, commodification, authenticity, destination development and marketing, business strategy and protection/infringement of intellectual property. Fashion, Design and Events also provides a futurist view of these types of events and sets out a future research agenda. This book has a unique focus on events associated with fashion and design and features a swathe of disciplinary backgrounds. It will appeal to a broad academic audience, such as students of art and design, cultural studies, tourism, events studies, sociology and marketing.

Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel takes a close look at the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear. Implementing materials, performance, technology, and design and marketing, the book examines this rapidly emerging textile market and outlines future directions and growing trends. The book begins by explaining how a comfort-driven focus has led the industry to embrace knitted fabric as a popular choice of constructional material. Using examples of leading brands, it outlines the basic terminology, structural details, and essential properties appropriate for performance apparel, especially for sportswear. This book describes the differences between woven and knitted structures, provides an understanding of fabric behavior and the characteristics of a functional garment, and outlines the importance of garment fit and consumer perception of garment comfort in its design and development. The authors present key research outcomes on the design and development of functional apparel designed for high-performance sportswear that explore smart materials, impact-resistant fabrics and pressure sensing. They consider the use of 3-D body scanning and its influence on pattern engineering for apparel product development; highlight the widely used fiber types for sportswear and the importance of fiber blends and their performance, and discuss the relevance of fabric structure and its interaction with the human body. The book also presents research on moisture management and temperature regulation and analyzes the performance and development of smart sportswear intended for monitoring health and performance for a range of end uses. A definitive guide detailing the future of functional clothing and sportswear, this book: Describes how to design and develop functional clothing for sportswear Reflects current research outcomes and industry requirements Clarifies with visual illustration, practical examples, and case studies an understanding of techniques and concepts Explores specifics of garment design such as fit, shape, function, fashion and design Focuses on a commitment to designing ethical and sustainable products

We know that way we dress says a lot about us. It's drilled into us by our parents as children, as adults throughout our working lives, and eternally from the culture surrounding us. Our dress tells the outside world of the culture and era we come from to our social status within that culture. Our dress can be telling of our political views, religious beliefs, sexuality and countless other identifying traits that we can keep hidden or show to the world by our choice of what to wear when heading venturing out. This was absolutely true, famously so, in the Victorian Era in which men and women alike wore their status on their often lavish, embellished sleeves. In her new book, Dr. Madeleine Seyes explores Victorian culture through the lens of fashion in her new book, Double Threads: Fashion and Victorian Popular Literature, which sits at the intersection of the fields of Victorian literary studies, dress and material cultural studies, feminist literary criticism, and gender and sexuality studies.

What's hot in Italian fashion now, and what soon will be hot. New stars are rising in the Italian fashion world--a varied group comprised of a young generation of designers who studied at fashion schools in Italy and abroad, who love contemporary art and architecture and are not afraid of facing new challenges. They all understand that it is necessary to go beyond the label of "Made in Italy" in order to find a new global identity for Italian fashion. The designers have been chosen by Maria Luisa Frisa for their critical philosophy of breaking with tradition and their ability to define new scenarios that emphasize "dressing" as part of a composite process.

Whiz Limited is a Japanese streetwear brand established in 2000 by Hiroaki Shitano. With a following in Japan as well as Hong Kong and mainland China, Shitano has become something of a cult figure, as one of the new generation of streetwear designers influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Consisting originally of handmade, printed tees, the label has since expanded to include a complete range of streetwear infused with an eccentric Japanese flair. Shitano was raised in the entertainment district of Shinjuku, and this is reflected in the clothing s distinctly downtown urban vibe and predominantly dark colour palette. Chronicling the history of the brand, alongside some of Whiz s most prolific projects to date, this book features beautiful, newly shot photographs of a long list of collaborations with streetwear icons, including Hiroshi Fujiwara/Fragment, Mastermind, Stussy, A Bathing Ape, Bristol, Bountyhunter, M&M, Kappa, New Era, Disney, Hello Kitty, G-Shock, Peanuts, Porter, The North Face, Marmot, First Down, and the estate of Keith Haring. This book also features an impressive archive of the brand s iconic sneaker designs, boasting collaborations with heavy hitters like mita sneakers, Adidas, New Balance, Asics, Puma, Reebok, Mizuno, Converse, and Ugg, making it a must-have for sneakerheads and lovers of streetwear style alike.

*A Financial Times Book of the Year* 'The first time I opened What Artists Wear, I gasped with pleasure. Imagine it as a kind of punk cousin to John Berger's Ways of Seeing, liberally illustrated with the most astonishing images of artists, decked out in finery or rags ... It transported me to somewhere glamorous, exciting, even revolutionary' Olivia Laing, Guardian Most of us live our lives in our clothes without realizing their power. But in the hands of artists, garments reveal themselves. They are pure tools of expression, storytelling, resistance and creativity: canvases on which to show who we really are. In What Artists Wear, style luminary Charlie Porter takes us on an invigorating, eye-opening journey through the iconic outfits worn by artists, in the studio, on stage, at work, at home and at play. From Yves Klein's spotless tailoring to the kaleidoscopic costumes of Yayoi Kusama and Cindy Sherman; from Andy Warhol's signature denim to Charlotte Prodger's casualwear, Porter's roving eye picks out the magical, revealing details in the clothes he encounters, weaving together a new way of understanding artists, and of dressing ourselves. Part love letter, part guide to chic, and featuring generous photographic spreads, What Artists Wear is both a manual and a manifesto, a radical, gleeful, inspiration to see the world anew-and find greater pleasure and possibility in the clothes we all wear.

As one of the most successful fashion houses in existence, Chanel owes much to the templates first laid down by its founder - Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel (1883-1971). Some of her most celebrated designs, such as the two-piece suit, the little black dress and the quilted handbag, remain in vogue to this day. Chanel designed first and foremost for herself: by creating clothes fit for an independent and active lifestyle, she anticipated the needs and wants of the modern woman. This beautiful book showcases a stunning array of Chanel's most notable designs from her 60 years in fashion, largely drawn from the collections of the Chanel Patrimoine, Paris and the V&A. It examines the cut, construction, embellishment and provenance of the ensembles, as well as the design themes and motifs Chanel returned to throughout her career. Newly commissioned photographs of the selected pieces, together with archival images, capture the design evolution of thie fashion icon.

Discover fashion that dared to be different, risked reputations and put careers in jeopardy. This is what happens when people take tradition and rip it up. FashionQuake introduces 50 pivotal moments that shook the world and changed mainstream fashion forever, telling the fascinating stories behind each piece's creation, reception and legacy. From awe-inspiring couture to protest T-shirts, bumster trousers to safety-pin dresses, this book profiles the cutting-edge of fashion, featuring enigmatic designers, risque campaigns, surreal haute couture and radical clothing. By tracing the history of modern fashion via the pieces that steered away from the norm, Caroline Young tells us how we got to the here and now. This fascinating and deeply insightful book presents an alternative introduction to fashion focusing on 50 moments that consciously questioned boundaries, challenged the status quo and made shockwaves we are still feeling today. This book is from the Culture Quake series, which looks into iconic moments of culture which truly created paradigm shifts in their respective fields. Also available are ArtQuake, FilmQuake and MusicQuake.

With so much focus on contemporary theory, it is easy to forget that the serious analysis of clothing and fashion has a long history. In fact, they have been the subject of intense cultural debate since the nineteenth century. Fashion Classics provides an interpretative overview of the groundbreaking and often idiosyncratic writings of eight theorists whose work has profoundly influenced the conceptual and theoretical basis of our contemporary understanding of clothes and the fashion system.
Carter fully revives early 'fashion theorists' - some canonical and others less well known - and examines them in light of more recent work. From Carlyle's fantastical character Professor Teufelsdrockh, through the first Freudian analysis of clothes by J.C. Flugel, the pioneering work of Spencer, Veblen, Simmel, Kroeber, Laver and finally Barthes' monumental work on the modern fashion system, this book explores and explains the foundations of fashion theory. Not only does it provide an historical outline of Western conceptions of clothes and fashion, but it also highlights how ideas intermix and build on one another.
Carter's lively narrative clearly shows that views on fashion have always been impassioned - perhaps most notably Carlyle's notorious attack on Dandyism and Veblen's suggestion that clothes should be made out of old newspaper. This book also makes sense of complex theory and is essential reading for anyone seeking an overview of the history of fashion theory.

Rosy Aindow examines the way fiction registered and responded to the emergence of a modern fashion industry during the period 1870-1914. She traces the role played by dress in the formation of literary identities, with specific attention to the way that an engagement with fashionable clothing was understood to be a means of class emulation. The expansion of the fashion industry in the second half of the nineteenth century is generally considered to have had a significant impact on the way in which lower income groups, in particular, encountered clothing: many were able to participate in fashionable consumption for the first time. Remaining alert to the historical specificity of these events, this study argues that the cultural perception of the expansion of the industry - namely a predominantly bourgeois fear that it would result in a democratisation in dress - had a profound effect on the way in which fashion was approached by contemporary writers. Drawing on existing cultural analogies that associated fashion with women and artifice, it concludes that women were particularly implicated in fictional accounts of class mobility. This transgression applied not only to women who wore fashionable clothing, but to those working in the fashion industry itself. An allusion to fashion has a socio-specific meaning, one which gained a new potency in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century narratives as a vehicle for the expression of class anxieties.

Fabrics can represent an era or a decade-the colors, patterns, textures, and fibers reveal as much about the culture as do the furnishings and clothing that relied on the fabrics. The decade of the 1960s was one of extremes. Traditional plaids were reintroduced and became popular at the same time as bold prints and geometrics, notably Op Art and "psychedelic" patterns and colors, characterized the decade. Synthetics took off, and phrases like "polyester knit" and "stretch knit" elicit visions of unmistakably '60s staples. The best way to experience the fabric of a decade is to see it, and this book is entirely dedicated to the sensory, the visual. Nearly 600 close-up color photographs with informative captions and index make this book a treat for designers, historians, and anyone interested in fashion and textiles.

Bestselling author Claire Shaeffer teaches you everything you need to know to plan and sew the perfect jacket. Based on couture techniques learnt from master tailors, this book begins with the equipment, materials, design elements, and sewing and construction techniques used in all types of tailoring. Part Two provides an illustrated step-by-step guide to making a couture jacket, explaining all the design options and alternative methods for making every element including collars, sleeves and pockets. Couture Tailoring includes over 800 step-by-step illustrations throughout, over 200 photographs of couture jackets by Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and more than 100 couture tips. Any aspiring tailor must have this book in their fashion library.

A visual journey through 100 years of wedding styles and dresses, Vintage Weddings takes a close look at the key periods, diverse styles, iconoclastic designers, significant ceremonies and cultural influences in wedding fashions. Organized chronologically, this book shows the reader how to recognize the silhouette that will best suit their body shape, identify luxurious fabrics, contrast various styles, and to source appropriate accessories, from gloves and shoes to flowers, veils, jewellery and table decorations. Throughout the book, individual pieces that epitomize the defining characteristic of each designer or decade are analysed in detail. This book is for those interested in collecting and acquiring all aspects of authentic vintage pieces relating to the wedding ceremony, and also for prospective brides who are buying new, but are looking for sources of inspiration.

'There isn't a more comprehensive source to Twenties fashion that I can think of ... An absolute must for anyone interested in Twenties fashion or art deco' Style High Club 'A source of all the styles, colours, shapes, and silhouettes of the Golden Twenties' Vogue From the glitz and glamour of the Roaring Twenties came a fashion revolution. The 1920s is a decade synonymous with social change, reflected in its groundbreaking fashions: from the daring elegance of the 'New Woman' to never-before-seen silhouettes, the styles of the Roaring Twenties still capture the imagination a century later. Sumptuously illustrated with over 500 original photographs, sketches and prints, this extensive sourcebook documents the season-by-season fashions of the Jazz Age. Follow the evolving fashion trends and uncover a fascinating analysis of the progression from haute couture to ready-to-wear in this essential handbook for all fashion historians, students and vintage enthusiasts. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

A chronicle of Grace Coddington's formative years at Vogue, now available as a jacketed paperback

Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue showcases some of the most memorable photographs published in British and American Vogue from 1972 to 2002, stories created by the iconic fashion editor Grace Coddington. Both monograph and memoir, the book shows how Coddington transformed static studio portraiture into modern vivid tableaux and turned location shoots into cinematic narratives.

Grace's commentary gives behind-the-scenes insight into many famous images and fashion personalities, from the iconic shoot of a bikinied Naomi Campbell in Irving Penn's studio to Steven Meisel's boundary-pushing grunge aesthetic in nineties Vogue. This volume features photography by Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Cecil Beaton, Guy Bourdin, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Steven Klein, Peter Lindbergh, among others.

First published in 2002 and reissued by Phaidon in 2015 to great success, this paperback, midi-sized edition includes forewords by fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld and American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel is an icon of fashion, and can lay claim to having invented the look of the 20th century. At the height of the Belle Epoque, she stripped women of their corsets and feathers, bobbed their hair, put them in bathing suits and sent them out to get tanned in the sun. She introduced the little black dress; trousers for women; costume jewelry; the exquisitely comfortable suit that became her trademark. Early in the Roaring Twenties, Chanel made the first ever couture perfume - No. 5 - presenting it in the famous little square-cut flagon that, inspired by Picasso and Cubism, became the arch symbol of the Art Deco style. No. 5 remains the most popular scent ever created. This volume, published to accompany a landmark exhibition in Paris, traces the birth and evolution of Chanel's timeless style. Specially commissioned photographs by Julien T. Hamon showcase the clothing, while essays by fashion historians illuminate a period, an event or a theme. Rare archival documents, including portraits of Gabrielle Chanel herself, round out the book.

Originally published in 1996, Stud: Architectures of Masculinity is an interdisciplinary exploration of the active role architecture plays in the construction of male identity. Architects, artists, and theorists investigate how sexuality is constituted through the organization of materials, objects, and human subjects in actual space. This collection of essays and visual projects critically analyzes the spaces that we habitually take for granted but that quietly participates in the manufacturing of "maleness." Employing a variety of critical perspectives (feminism, "queer theory," deconstruction, and psychoanalysis), Stud's contributors reveal how masculinity, always an unstable construct, is coded in our environment. Stud also addresses the relationship between architecture and gay male sexuality, illustrating the resourceful ways that gay men have appropriated and reordered everyday public domains, from streets to sex clubs, in the formation of gay social space.

Fashion Education explores how the classroom can transform the fashion industry towards body inclusion and social justice. The book is a collection of 16 essays by fashion educators from Australia, Canada, the US and the UK who recount their experiences, struggles and strategies of reimagining the exclusive foundation of fashion pedagogy and redesigning fashion curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans and queer worldviews, histories and bodies. This is the first book to explore the relationships between fashion pedagogy and social justice, and to map out new pedagogical frameworks and tools to redistribute power through fashion education. It shares the teaching practices of fashion educators implementing radical pedagogies and offers practical case studies that engage with a number of intersectional positions. Fashion Education engages with current pressing concerns for educators and is a valuable teaching resource for fashion educators - both theory and practice - working in art and design schools in Europe, the US and the UK. With chapters covering fashion theory, history, business, communication and design curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans, queer worldviews, histories and peoples it will appeal directly to the many disciplines within fashion. The discussions are also relevant to educators in other art, design and creative fields also looking to centre inclusion in their courses and the strategies presented will apply to them. Contributions from Tanveer Ahmed, Kevin Almond, Avalon Acaso, Ben Barry, Mal Burkinshaw, Johnathan Clancy, Robin J. Chantree, Deborah A. Christel, Brittany Dickinson, Greg Climer, Bianca Garcia, Denise Nicole Green, Alicia Johnson, Lucy Jones, Grace Jun, Carmen Keist, Riley Kucheran, Michael Mamp, Krys Osei, Lauren Downing Peters, Alexis Quinney, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Austin Reeves, Joshua Simon, Colleen Schindler-Lynch, Brandon Spencer and Sang Thai

Throughout history, fashion has emerged as one of the most powerful driving forces determining the political, economic and social ramifications of the production, distribution and circulation of goods. Indeed fashion, especially in relation to clothing and textiles, shapes the relationship between self and society in unique ways. In this light, the collected papers in this volume position fashion as the lens - the critical mediating force - through which to analyse and understand cultural, economic and political shifts within a broad spectrum of societies in Europe, Asia, Africa and America from the seventeenth to twenty-first centuries. Topics include a seventeenth-century failing fashion region, the material politics of marketing American abolitionist fashions, the construction of a fashionable ethos for French perfumes, and the use and meanings of clothing and textiles in the politics of Nigerian silk robes and early modern domestic decor in Europe. This volume represents an important shift in scholarship towards a more in-depth understanding of the role of fashion in early modern and modern times and will appeal to international readers interested in material culture, fashion, consumer studies and cultural anthropology, among other areas.

In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Bronte, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

There has been a great deal of recent interest in masculine clothing, examining both its production and consumption, and the ways in which it was used to create individual identities and to build businesses, from 1850 onwards. Drawing upon a wide range of sources this book studies the interaction between producers and consumers at a key period in the development of the ready-made clothing industry. It also shows that many innovations in advertising clothing, usually considered to have been developed in America, had earlier British precedents. To counter the lack of documentary evidence that has hitherto hampered research into the dress practices of non-elite groups, this book utilises thousands of unpublished visual documents. These include hundreds of manufacturers' designs, which underline an unexpected degree of investment by manufacturers in boys' clothing, and which was matched by heavy investment in advertising, with thousands of images of boys' clothing for shop catalogues in the Stationers' Hall copyright archive. Another key source is the archives of Dr Barnardo's Homes. This extraordinary collection contains over 15,000 documented photographs of boys entering between 1875 and 1900, allowing us to look beyond official polarization of 'raggedness' and 'respectability' used by charities and social reformers of all stripes and to establish the clothing that was actually worn by a large sample of boys. A close analysis of 1,800 images reveals that even when families were impoverished, they strove to present their boys in ways that reflected their position in the family group and in society. By drawing on these visual sources, and linking the design and retailing of boys' clothing with social, cultural and economic issues, this book shows that an understanding of the production and consumption of the boys clothing is central to debates on the growth of the consumer society, the development of mass-market fashion, and concepts of childhood and masculinity.

Whether you're a collector, fashion historian, costume designer, or dancer, you'll delight in this story of vintage clothing that swings to the beat of a blue note or eight-to-the-bar. Come on a pictorial tour of groovy threads from the 1930s through the 1950s. Jump into the mid-1930s, when swing was launched as a national dance fad, with jewel-tone satins and sunny printed cottons. Dozens of original color photos share top billing with hundreds of vintage ads and sketches. This lively book includes thumbnail bios of the musical artists who made it happen, from Basin Street to Harlem and Southside Chicago, plus a valuation guide, a resource directory, a glossary of music and fashion terms, and even tips on creating your own vintage look.