This classic text offers students and industry professionals detailed step-by-step instructions and illustrations for grading pattern pieces for women's, men's and children's wear.

The fourth edition of Schiffer Fashion Press's (SFP) runway compendium tells the story of the Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week collections from "Atelier to Runway." Sketches, inspirations, mementos, swatches, and mood boards from the studios of five top designers offer insights into the creative process behind the collections. The story further unfolds with compelling backstage coverage gathered before 10 runway shows. Here you'll see the pre-runway excitement of hair stylists, makeup artists, and designers creating the final look. Finally, over 1,500 runway and presentation images from the collections of 69 designers complete this New York Fashion Week experience. Complementing this dramatic fashion narrative, this volume also presents street fashion photography and an expanded trend guide with more details and analysis, plus hair and makeup coverage. Come behind the scenes with us to experience everything that makes this week the most exciting time in American fashion.

Fashion Education explores how the classroom can transform the fashion industry towards body inclusion and social justice. The book is a collection of 16 essays by fashion educators from Australia, Canada, the US and the UK who recount their experiences, struggles and strategies of reimagining the exclusive foundation of fashion pedagogy and redesigning fashion curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans and queer worldviews, histories and bodies. This is the first book to explore the relationships between fashion pedagogy and social justice, and to map out new pedagogical frameworks and tools to redistribute power through fashion education. It shares the teaching practices of fashion educators implementing radical pedagogies and offers practical case studies that engage with a number of intersectional positions. Fashion Education engages with current pressing concerns for educators and is a valuable teaching resource for fashion educators - both theory and practice - working in art and design schools in Europe, the US and the UK. With chapters covering fashion theory, history, business, communication and design curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans, queer worldviews, histories and peoples it will appeal directly to the many disciplines within fashion. The discussions are also relevant to educators in other art, design and creative fields also looking to centre inclusion in their courses and the strategies presented will apply to them. Contributions from Tanveer Ahmed, Kevin Almond, Avalon Acaso, Ben Barry, Mal Burkinshaw, Johnathan Clancy, Robin J. Chantree, Deborah A. Christel, Brittany Dickinson, Greg Climer, Bianca Garcia, Denise Nicole Green, Alicia Johnson, Lucy Jones, Grace Jun, Carmen Keist, Riley Kucheran, Michael Mamp, Krys Osei, Lauren Downing Peters, Alexis Quinney, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Austin Reeves, Joshua Simon, Colleen Schindler-Lynch, Brandon Spencer and Sang Thai

Numerous designers have pioneered cutting-edge garments and collections throughout the evolution of fashion. But all too often a lack of obvious fit or purpose has been mistaken for a lack of design sophistication. In an informed defence of innovative fashion, Why You Can Go Out Dressed Like That champions the improbable, the provocative, the uncomfortable and the seemingly ridiculous. Inspired by diverse sources, theories and concepts, as well as futuristic textiles and techniques, the book explores the groundbreaking work of designers who strive to extend the boundaries of their creativity. There are no fixed elements to the 100 designs featured in this book, which range from the cerebral conceptions of Comme des Garcons, to the augmented anatomies of Thierry Mugler and the exaggerated physicality of Thom Browne's broad-shouldered men. The garments do not have to fulfil a function, keep you warm, or increase sexual attraction, nor do they have to beguile or disarm. They do need to have impact at the time of creation and to prove influential in the longer term. Many original designs elicit the response: `You can't go out dressed like that!'. Marnie Fogg proves decisively that modern fashion is not as outrageous and unwearable as it may seem.

Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style is a beautifully illustrated, handbag-sized visual history of one of the world's most iconic brands. Open the world's most famous little blue box to discover the story of Tiffany & Co. since its founding in 1837. Packed with photographs and information from the company's 185 years, get a glimpse of the legendary designs that have made Tiffany & Co. a household name. Starting in New York City in 1837, you will discover just how far plucky upstart Charles Lewis Tiffany went to be crowned the King of Diamonds. It is a tale of fortunes won and lost, the discovery of new gems and design talent, and the making of some of the most iconic jewels of our times - including the classic Tiffany engagement ring. Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style is the perfect gift for any fashion or jewellery lover. Also available: Cartier: The Story Behind the Style

The best way to learn to draw is to DRAW! And this exciting little sketchbook is going to help you do just that. From cover to cover, this book is filled with 900 inspiring, modern drawings of little black dresses, summery hats, stylish shoes, faux fur coats and much, much more-plus plenty of room for sketching your own versions of all these delightful fashions. 20 Ways to Draw is an exciting new illustration series from Quarry Books, designed to offer artists, designers, and doodlers fun and sophisticated exercise books that help foster a creative spirit and provide learning tools and inspiration. This latest addition to the series focuses specifically on drawing and sketching fashion. Each spread features 20 inspiring illustrations of a single fashion item, for example: dresses, shoes, hats, bikinis, scarves-with blank space for you to draw your take on 20 Ways to Draw a Dress. The stylized items are simplified, modernized, and reduced to the most basic elements, showing how simple abstract shapes and forms meld to create the building blocks of any item that you want to draw. Each of the 20 interpretations gives you a different interesting approach to drawing a single item. Get out your favorite drawing tool, and remember, there are not just 20 Ways to Draw a Dress!

Apparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products, Second Edition is a user-friendly guide for evaluating apparel quality to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. This book provides an overview of apparel production, emphasizing quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences, and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and highlights the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods. The text is highly illustrated to provide students with the tools needed to evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products skillfully. New to this Edition: - New fabric technology including e-textiles, sew bots, and automation - International common size equivalents to accompany U.S. size classifications by sex, height, and age - Sustainability considerations for raw materials, design development, and apparel production - Expanded international labeling and safety regulations and compliance for the United States, Canada, EU, and Japan Instructor Resources - The Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, including sample syllabi, in-class activities, lab activities, and projects. - The Test Bank includes sample test questions for each chapter - PowerPoint (R) presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion Instructor's Resources may be accessed through www.fairchildbooks.com. STUDIO Features: - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary and image identification - Watch Videos that take you behind the scenes of factories and testing facilities, to see how concepts covered in the text are applied in the real world

Originally published in 1996, Stud: Architectures of Masculinity is an interdisciplinary exploration of the active role architecture plays in the construction of male identity. Architects, artists, and theorists investigate how sexuality is constituted through the organization of materials, objects, and human subjects in actual space. This collection of essays and visual projects critically analyzes the spaces that we habitually take for granted but that quietly participates in the manufacturing of "maleness." Employing a variety of critical perspectives (feminism, "queer theory," deconstruction, and psychoanalysis), Stud's contributors reveal how masculinity, always an unstable construct, is coded in our environment. Stud also addresses the relationship between architecture and gay male sexuality, illustrating the resourceful ways that gay men have appropriated and reordered everyday public domains, from streets to sex clubs, in the formation of gay social space.

Fibres to Smart Textiles: Advances in Manufacturing, Technologies, and Applications offers comprehensive coverage of the fundamentals and advances in the textile and clothing manufacturing sectors. It describes the basics of fibres, yarns, and fabrics and their end use in the latest developments and applications in the field and addresses environmental impacts from textile processes and how to minimize them. This book serves as a single comprehensive source discussing textile fibres, yarn formation, filament formation techniques, woven fabric formation, knitting technologies, nonwoven manufacturing technologies, braiding technologies, and dyeing, printing, and finishing processes. Testing of textile materials, environmental impacts of textile processes and use of CAD and CAM in designing textile products are also included. The book also discusses applications including textile composites and biocomposites, technical textiles, smart textiles, and nanotextiles. With chapters authored by textile experts, this practical book offers guidance to professionals in textile and clothing manufacturing and shows how to avoid potential pitfalls in product development.

From the internationally prestigious fashion brand, British Vogue, comes this gorgeous celebration of the must-have fashion accessory: the handbag "Any woman can wear shoes and handbags: it's not a question of how tall you are, how skinny you are, how blonde or blue-eyed or tanned or whatever." - Marc Jacobs Carolyn Asome reveals the fashion accessory that can make any woman feel fabulous - from the myriad surrealist creations of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel to Prada's democratic nylon backpack, from the exclusive Hermes Birkin bag to individual vintage gems, the handbag is fashion's most inventive accessory. No shock, then, that the handbag market today is worth more than a hundred billion dollars. From each season's must-have to five-figure rarities, the handbag symbolizes the inexplicable power of fashion desire. Vogue Essentials: Handbags explores all the greatest hits in a collection that any fashion devotee will covet. This irresistible series from Conran Octopus and British Vogue explores the key pieces in a stylish woman's wardrobe and features photographs from Vogue's peerless archive of more than a million pictures.

Founded in Los Angeles in 2014 by Kyle Ng and Ed Davis, Brain Dead is a collective of artists and designers from around the world. Employing a disruptive, graphic-led approach, the brand takes its cues from post punk, underground comics, skateboarding, horror films, and the spirit of subculture as a whole to produce an unmistakably bold, nonconformist vision that is wholly their own. Their erratic, internet-based designs and prints and distinctive collaborations with names like Magic the Gathering, The Academy of Motion Pictures, Marvel, and NTS Radio, brands including Reebok, Converse, A.P.C., The Northface, Asics, Dickies, Kiko Kostantinov, and Slam Jam, as well as musical artists including Dev Hynes, Belle and Sebastian, and Devandra Banhart, have quickly garnered the label a cult-like following that stretches from LA to New York, Paris, Milian, Japan, and beyond. This book chronicles the formation and development of the brand as they have engaged with and put a spotlight on alternative culture in their homebase of Los Angeles and around the globe and is packed Thoughtfully designed, while paying homage to classic underground zine culture, this volume is packed with Brain Dead s seminal output of graphics and interviews between the founders and collaborators sheds light on and gives context to the journey that lead Brain Dead s takeover. Not only essential for fans of streetwear and fashion, this volume is essential for graphic designers, audiophiles, and movie buffs alike.

Containing the stories of four legendary fashion houses, this collectable box holds a beautiful set of covetable style guides. Exploring four designers who exemplify elegance and high couture, these little books of fashion follow these brands from their creation, moving through their style evolutions, the key looks that define them and their impact on the fashion landscape today. Discover the story behind the Birkin with the Little Book of Hermes, the creation of red carpet elegance with Valentino, the construction of architectural masterpieces with Balenciaga and the complete re-imagination of the iconic brand with Chanel by Lagerfeld. Featuring hundreds of exquisite images and text by best-selling authors, these definitive guides to luxury style are the perfect gift for any fashion lover.

More than 350 photographs of historic fabric swatches explore design variations in foulards, the small motifs printed on silks and related fabrics that were intended for men's ties and dressing gowns. Take an inspiring visual tour of designs, from the traditional to pop art, in foulard prints. An invaluable guide for the historian and student, a treasure of ideas and inspiration for designers.

Take a look at the wild, bold, colorful, and naughty designs that have swelled men's chests throughout necktie history. Follow the development of this manly fashion, from fabrics to tie care, and enjoy an astounding kaleidoscope of colors and motifs. Hundreds of neck and bow ties from the late twentieth century are displayed in 340 color pictures. The designs range from the incredible "Bold Look" ties of the late 1940s and early 1950s to the thinly conservative ties of the late 1950s. The early 1960s produced mundane ties, but Pop, Op, and Psychedelic Art ushered in another era in the late 1960s and early 1970s called the "Peacock Look," characterized by extremely wide ties and extravagantly wild prints. Finally, take a tour of the stylistic progression ties made through the 1980s and 1990s.

Providing detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal comfort, which allows for systematic control of the measuring methods and the services and final products that are distributed on the global market. This book is aimed at industry professionals, researchers, and advanced students working in textile and clothing engineering, comfort testing, and ergonomics.

First published in 1981, In A Glamourous Fashion is not only a fascinating look at film fashion portraying the glamour and glitter of Hollywood's heyday; but is also an invaluable reference source for any student of the film, of costume, or of the social history. It documents some of the best work of the designers - names like Adrian, Cecil Beaton, Edith Head - but tells the often-dramatic story of their careers and their relationships with legendary stars such as Garbo, Dietrich, Monroe and many more. Here are the stories behind the screen's most famous costumes: Walter Plunkett's 'curtain dress' for Scarlett O'Hara; the red Jezebel gown Orry-Kelly designed for Bette Davis; the slinky back satin sheath Rita Hayworth wore in Gilda; and the extravagant gown - 15, 000 worth of mink - worn by Ginger Rogers in Lady in the Dark. The photographs and original sketches are an essential and decorative complement to the text; there is an index, bibliography, and a full list of Academy Award winners for costume design.

This book documents a collection of approximately 90 Paracas textiles. The collection consists of cloaks, ponchos, tunics, as well as some smaller fragments such as ribbons. Originally housed at the Ethnographic Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, the objects were returned to Peru during 2019 and 2020. Paracas textiles tell the story of the people living in Peru more than 2000 years ago and how they saw and viewed the world. In cultures without a written language imagery is very important. Textile pictures were created from the depths of the human senses, from thoughts and dreams. The makers of the Paracas textiles depict fantastic stories from their time and culture about creation, death and thoughts about life. Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson has studied, inventoried and analysed the Paracas textiles for decades, and cracked codes about how they were made. She also has pioneering theories about what they want to say and how the unbroken thread symbolises life. In this text, Kerstin documents and explains the secret behind these fantastic 2000-year-old textiles.

Barbara Hulanicki tells the story of the rise and fall of the tiny, energetic boutique that grew into a vast emporium and epitomised Swinging London. The Biba store was to become an icon of hip '60s and '70s London and a hangout for artists, film stars and rock musicians, including the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot and Marianne Faithful. But in the early 1970s, Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon lost control after a series of bitter boardroom struggles and for Barbara, Biba was lost. This lively autobiography evokes the adventurous spirit of the 1960s and describes an extraordinary life with clarity and wit.

A handbook for clothing designers, stylists and fashionistas, this dashing publication uses beautiful illustrations and drawings to highlight the design and key details of various forms of contemporary clothing, such as coats, jackets, shirts, tops, blouses, dresses, trousers, shorts and skirts. Traditional and contemporary materials, colors and textures for different styles are also listed. This atlas will help designers in their work, no matter which creative method of costume design they choose: inversion, analogy, empathy, fantasy, creating new combinations and problem-solving. It is meant to be a source of inspiration and a useful tool for artists and designers working with clothing, and will be of interest to anyone who is passionate about fashion and style.

Optimization and decision making are integral parts of any manufacturing process and management system. The objective of this book is to demonstrate the confluence of theory and applications of various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization techniques with reference to textile manufacturing and management. Divided into twelve chapters, it discusses various multi-criteria decision-making methods such as AHP, TOPSIS, ELECTRE, and optimization techniques like linear programming, fuzzy linear programming, quadratic programming, in textile domain. Multi-objective optimization problems have been dealt with two approaches, namely desirability function and evolutionary algorithm. Key Features Exclusive title covering textiles and soft computing fields including optimization and decision making Discusses concepts of traditional and non-traditional optimization methods with textile examples Explores pertinent single-objective and multi-objective optimizations Provides MATLAB coding in the Appendix to solve various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization problems Includes examples and case studies related to textile engineering and management

This book seeks to establish the meaning of design research, its role in the field, and the characteristics that differentiate research in design from research in other fields. The author introduces a model to explain the relationship between the components of the ontological reality of design: the designed object, the designer, and the user. Addressing design research across disciplines, the author establishes a foundational understanding of research, and research paradigms, for the design disciplines. This will be crucial for the emerging field of design research to find its own identity and move forward, building its own knowledge base as it finds its positioning between science and art. The book will be of interest to scholars working in design history, design studies, graphic design, industrial design, interior design, architecture, fashion design, and service design.

Artificial intelligence (AI) now infiltrates our culture. After a couple of difficult winters, AI today is a word on everybody's lips, and it attracts everyone's attention regardless of whether they are experts or not. From Apple's Siri to Amazon's Alexa, Tesla's auto-driving cars to facial recognition systems in CCTV cameras, Netflix's film offering services to Google's search engine, we live in a world of AI goods. The advent of AI-powered technologies increasingly affects people's lives across the globe. As a tool for productivity and cost-efficiency, AI also shapes our economy and welfare. AI-generated designs and works are becoming more popular. Today, AI technologies can generate several intellectual creations. Fashion is one of the industries that AI can profoundly impact. AI tools and devices are currently being used in the fashion industry to create fashion models, fabric and jewellery designs, and clothing. When we talk about AI-generated designs, we instead focus on the fruits of innovation - more best-selling apparels, more fashionable designs and more fulfilment of customer expectations - without paying heed to who the designer is. Designers invest a lot of talent, time and finances into designing and creating each article of clothing and accessory before they release their work to the public. Pattern drafting is the first and most important step in dressmaking. Designers typically start with a general sketch on paper; add styles, elements and colours; revise and refine everything; and finally deliver their design to dressmakers. AI accelerates this time-consuming and labour-intensive process. Yet the full legal consequences of AI in fashion industry are often forgotten. An AI device's ability to generate fashion designs raises the question of who will own intellectual property rights over the fashion designs. Will it be the fashion designer who hires or contracts with the AI programmer? Will it be the programmer? Will it be the AI itself? Or will it be a joint work of humans and computers? And who will be liable for infringement deriving from use of third-party material in AI-generated fashion designs? This book explores answers to these questions within the framework of EU design and copyright laws. It also crafts a solution proposal based on a three-step test and model norms, which could be used to unleash the authors, rights holders and infringers around AI-generated fashion designs.

Designers in the textile industry have a wide range of roles and responsibilities and are frequently required to make design decisions throughout the manufacturing process. This very practical handbook provides a comprehensive overview of the role of the textile designer within the textile industry. It deals with the all aspects of the design process from the beginning - from how to go about attracting clients through range planning and development to presentation. It firmly locates the work of the textile designer within the wider context of the global textile and clothing industries and considers the process of design for both freelance and in-house designers. Commercial considerations are also covered, together with trend forecasting and the factors influencing purchasing decisions.
Based on the author's experience as a textile designer in industry and as a lecturer at UMIST, Manchester, UK, this book covers the entire textile design process from briefing through initial ideas, research and design development, to finished fabrics being sold to garment manufacturers and to retail. The Handbook of textile design is an invaluable reference for students of textile design as well as buyers and merchandisers of textile products, and anyone requiring an understanding of the textile design process.
The range and diversity of textile design techniques available to the designerThe professional practice of running a textile design studioHow design work is carried out from the initial brief all the way through to invoicing the client