Written by an expert whose fashion knowledge extends around the globe, The Fashion Design Directory presents an enticing panorama of around 150 of the most influential players in the world of fashion from the beginning of the 20th century to the present day - the people and companies who have shaped contemporary fashion and defined the modern perception of style. Engaging, informative text sets the scene for each designer - their origins, their ethos and their pathway to success - while striking runway images showcase statement looks and pieces from each designer's career. Together, they give a compelling overview of their defining collections and labels.

This essential book provides the first comprehensive overview of the symbiotic relationship that exists between fashion and textiles. Because textiles represent a central ingredient of fashion (as with denim jeans, for example), their interrelationship should be an obvious theme for study, yet historically the two subjects are often considered separately. Gale and Kaur analyze fashion and textile's cultural, industrial and social relationships, as well as examining how the two fields compete with and influence one another. Taking as their starting point the nature of the relationship between fashion and textiles, Gale and Kaur then identify and discuss key arenas of commercial and cultural interaction, including raw materials, business, consumers, and future technology. Their examples are drawn from the experiences and opinions of industry professionals - designers, retailers, and manufacturers. Gale and Kaur look at how the raw materials from which clothing is made are heavily influenced by fashion trends on national and global levels. Why do we choose the fabrics we do, and how do our choices affect both industries? The story is very much a human one. Each garment has an intriguing history before a consumer even tries it on. Gale and Kaur unpick this history and examine how retail need and consumer demand impact upon the end product. The result is an exciting new book that begins at the level of supply and demand, and moves forward to consider issues about design, technology, globalization and broader fashion trends. Highlighting cultural differences and similarities between the two industry sectors, Fashion and Textiles offers varied professional perspectives, information about key roles and jobs, and practical considerations relating to economics, design, manufacture and retail. A key text for a wide range of courses on fashion and textiles, it is vital reading for anyone hoping to pursue a career in either field.

Inspired by new approaches in performance studies, theatre history, research in material culture and dress history, a rich discussion of the many aspects of costume in Shakespearean performance has begun. Shakespeare and Costume furthers this research, bringing together varied and stimulating essays by leading scholars that consider costume from literary, dramatic, design, performative and theatrical perspectives, as well as interviews with renowned theatre practitioners Jane Greenwood and Robert Morgan. The volume amply demonstrates how an analysis of the meaning of costume enriches our understanding of Shakespeare's plays. Beginning with an overview of the stage history of Shakespeare and costume, the volume looks at the historical context of clothing in the plays, considering topics such as royal self-fashioning, festive livery practices, and conceptions of race and gender exhibited in clothing choice, as well as costume in performance. Drawing on documentary evidence in designers' renderings, illustrations in periodicals, paintings, photographs, newspaper reviews and actors' memoirs, the volume also explores costume designs in specific Shakespeare productions from the re-opening of the London theatres in 1660 to the present day.

Deco dandy contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the style moderne (art deco) by exploring how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the 'deco dandy'. The book suggests a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body, masculinity and the dandy in this history than has been given to date. Important and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book provide insights into the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity. -- .

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel was, without doubt, the most influential designer of the 20th century. This book honours her influence by celebrating the key elements that defined and still define her style through inspired pairings of classic and contemporary photographs. Juxtaposing fashion plates from Chanel's own time with the most recent creations by Karl Lagerfeld, such as Cecil Beaton's portrait of Coco Chanel presented alongside one of Cate Blanchett by Lagerfeld himself, the resonance between archive and contemporary photographs becomes sharp, vibrant and telling. The vocabulary of Chanel's style - the little black dress, baroque inspirations, androgynous chic - is revealed in eleven chapters that compare original forms in the 1920s with the full range of their later expressions through every fashion era. Chanel's legendary fashion house continues to captivate a huge audience with an insatiable appetite for one of fashion's undisputed style perennials.

Fashionary's Bag Design encyclopedia is the most comprehensive resource for bag designers and bag lovers. Focusing on the specific needs of bag designers, Fashionary has provided essential information on bag anatomy, manafacturing, materials and much more in one compact, convenient volume.

This sumptuously illustrated book reveals the decorative seams, refined stitching, voluptuous drapery, strict corseting and slashing and stamping that make up some of the garments in the V&A's superlative 19th-century fashion collection. With an authoritative text, exquisite colour photography of garment details and line drawings showing the complete construction of each piece, it gives the reader a unique opportunity to examine historical clothing that is often too fragile to be on display. It is an inspirational resource for students, collectors, designers and anyone who is fascinated by fashion and clothing.

This book presents full step-by-step instructions for the making of early 17th-century men's clothes and accessories in a technically accurate, visually exciting and easy-to-follow format. Twelve garments - all historical pieces from the Victoria and Albert Museum's collections - are featured: a suit, three doublets and a cloak, as well as a felt hat, an embroidered nightcap and a plain nightcap liner, a pasteboard picadil, a sword girdle and hangers, a pair of mittens and a linen stocking. They have been analysed so that every aspect of the pattern is exact. Scale patterns and precise construction diagrams are accompanied by colour photography of the whole garment as well as an abundance of informative details and X-ray photographs that reveal the hidden structure of each piece, showing the precise number of layers and the types of stitches used inside. The methods and techniques of historical tailoring and plain sewing are shown in detail. The authors have some of the best historical tailoring skills in the world and have worked with world-renowned institutions such as the Globe Theatre in London, creating award-winning costumes for film, stage and television. This book is a unique resource for costume and fashion designers, fashion historians and students.

This is a visual record of the British people's habits of dress from the Victorians to Britpop. Social history is reflected in the outfits of the time, from the wartime austerity of the 1940s to the new couture of the 1950s. It takes us on a fascinating journey through a hundred years of fashion and style, both on the London catwalks and on the streets of ordinary towns. This is a celebration of punk rock and rockers since the early 1970s. 500 images from the MirrorPix archives illustrate the world of punk rock, capturing the atmosphere of gigs and venues, at festivals and in the recording studio. News pictures expose the hard-living, anarchic lifestyle of punk musicians and their transition into more acceptable members of society; the fashions and colourful hairstyles of punks; and, the conflicts with other cultural groups such as Teddy boys and football hooligans.

A fascinating look into the world of men's neckwear, chronicling the style, fabric, and design changes that evolved in the second half of the 20th century. The book features nearly 400 color photographs along with a current price guide. From the slim ties of the late 1950s and early 1960s to the wide and wild Kipper ties of the mid-60s was a dramatic shift. By the late 1970s men's fashion returned to a normal state and designer labels entered the fashion scene in full force. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, retro styles became apparent as manufacturers reproduced abstract and geometric styles of the 1940s and 1950s. As the 1990s progressed, new collectible ties began flooding the market . Collecting men's ties can be extremely entertaining and a real treasure hunt. Whether it be a contemporary example or one worn decades ago, a tie is wearable art!

This book presents a nostalgic look at baby and children's wear from the Victorian Era to the first half of the 20th century. It chronicles the changes in children's fashions over the decades and centuries, from the popularity of tartans and plaids in the 1880s, to Knickerbocker suits and box pleated tunics, introduced by the Victorians, to the ever popular and enduring sailor suit. Over 300 stunning, full color photographs showcase the many wonderful and unusual examples of vintage and antique children's clothing, along with detailed descriptions and pricing. From exquisite christening gowns made of cotton and silk, with beautiful embroidery and lace trimmings, to the poignancy of a baby's mourning outfit, this book is delightful and informative in its photography and historic content. It is a must have for anyone interested in the field of fashion and vintage clothing, as well as antiques and collectibles.

Clothing Goes to War: Creativity Inspired by Scarcity in World War II is the story of clothing use when manufacturing for civilians nearly stopped and raw materials and workers across the globe were shifted to war work. Governments mandated rationing programmes in many countries to regulate the limited supply, in hopes that the burden of austerity would be equally shared. Unfortunately, as the war progressed and resources dwindled, neither ration tickets nor money could buy what did not exist on store shelves. Many people had to get by with their already limited wardrobes, often impacted by the global economic depression of the previous decade. Creativity, courage and perseverance came into play in caring for clothing using handicraft skills including sewing, knitting, mending, darning and repurposing to make limited wardrobes last during long years of austerity and deprivation. This fascinating page-turner is the first cross cultural account of the difficulties faced by common people experiencing clothing scarcity and rationing during World War II. In person interviews of women from over ten countries are contextualized with stories of the roles played by newly developed textiles, gendered dress in the workplace, handicraft skills often forgotten today, romance and weddings, rationing represented in war era film and the ever-present black market. Period photos from private collections, magazines and periodicals add dimension to this captivating account of the often overlooked role of clothing during World War II. Clothing Goes to War will appeal to present day readers interested in curtailing their consumption of clothing in an effort to reduce greenhouse gas emissions fueling climate change. Adopting the conservation techniques of the World War II generation who: 'made do' and 'wore our clothes until they wore out' will help to curtail the fashion industries negative impact on the environment. 'We made do.' 'We wore patches on our patches.' 'We wore our clothes until they wore out.' 'I was so excited when they had a feed sack with a border print!' These are just a few examples of the amazing first-hand experiences of women from over ten countries faced with clothing shortages represented in this book. Governments, regardless of which side they were on, enforced rationing and restrictions on clothing so that scarce textiles could be diverted to outfit the military, leaving limited resources for civilians. Many people had to get by with their already limited wardrobes, often impacted by the global economic depression of the previous decade. Creativity, courage and perseverance came into play in caring for clothing using handicraft skills including sewing, knitting, mending, darning and repurposing to make limited wardrobes last during long years of austerity and deprivation. Seventy-five years later, the lifestyle of Western culture has become more focused on a sense of entitlement and overuse. Recently, a 'slow fashion' movement promoting growing awareness of the negative effects of over consumption on the environment has motivated people to voluntarily restrict their clothing consumption. This movement echoes the efforts of civilians during World War II to sustain their limited wardrobes. A great deal about leading a more sustainable lifestyle can be learned from the cultural knowledge presented here in the stories of people who lived through the Great Depression and World War II. Clothing Goes to War represents an important contribution to the history of textiles and clothing, sociology, environmental studies, material culture and the history of World War II. This is a book that will have genuinely wide appeal. Local historians and craft groups may want to include this in their libraries many craft groups maintain libraries that discuss fashion and craft in wartime. Academic readership will be among researchers, educators, scholars and students in fashion studies, history, cultural studies and feminist studies, who will particularly value the thorough documentation. General readers will particularly enjoy the personal stories and close examination or rationing and alternative methods of clothing families. History-loving readers will like to see war from the consumer side of conflict. The current COVID-19 situation provides an unexpected context for many potential readers who until now have never faced lack of consumer goods, hoarding and market-price manipulation.

Discover fashion that dared to be different, risked reputations and put careers in jeopardy. This is what happens when people take tradition and rip it up. FashionQuake introduces 50 pivotal moments that shook the world and changed mainstream fashion forever, telling the fascinating stories behind each piece's creation, reception and legacy. From awe-inspiring couture to protest T-shirts, bumster trousers to safety-pin dresses, this book profiles the cutting-edge of fashion, featuring enigmatic designers, risque campaigns, surreal haute couture and radical clothing. By tracing the history of modern fashion via the pieces that steered away from the norm, Caroline Young tells us how we got to the here and now. This fascinating and deeply insightful book presents an alternative introduction to fashion focusing on 50 moments that consciously questioned boundaries, challenged the status quo and made shockwaves we are still feeling today. This book is from the Culture Quake series, which looks into iconic moments of culture which truly created paradigm shifts in their respective fields. Also available are ArtQuake, FilmQuake and MusicQuake.

Despite recent challenges from New York, London and Milan, Paris is renowned as the greatest fashion capital in the world. Its distinctive categorization of haute couture, demi-couture, and prt--porter reflects a highly structured and tightly controlled system that non-western designers have had difficulty penetrating. Yet a number of the most influential Japanese designers have broken into this scene and made a major impact. How? Paris couturiers and designers operate a gate-keeping system that is not only exclusive and rigorous but highly demanding. But, Kawamura asks, does the system facilitate or inhibit new forms of creativity? She shows how traditional French fashion has been both disturbed and strengthened by the addition of outside forces such as Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Hanae Mori. At the same time she considers many other key questions the contemporary fashion industry should be asking itself. Has it, for example, become primarily preoccupied with the commercial projection of product images rather than with the clothing itself? And what direction will French fashion take without Saint Laurent, Miyake and Kenzo? This insightful book provides the first in-depth study of the Japanese revolution in Paris fashion and raises provocative questions for the future of the industry.

Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture, Second Edition, is a fully updated, expanded guide on the theories, processes, methodologies and technologies surrounding the footwear supply chain. Topics discussed include engineering design methodology, reducing manufacturing waste, footwear advertisement, emerging imaging technology, advice on the optimization of manufacturing processes for productivity, and summaries of the latest advances from researchers around the globe. This updated edition also includes coverage of sizing and grading based on different footwear styles and methods, AI based personalization and customization, emerging models for online footwear shopping (involving data mining), and new methods for foot data analysis and representation.

This book explains the past, present, and future of textile, fashion, apparel, and related majors of South Asian countries. The chapters express the hidden potential of textiles in South Asia. In this book, experts in textile engineering of each country describe the potential and prospects of textile education and how it can lead to internationalization. The book contains updated new illustrations, images, data, graphs, and tables. It also discusses the textile university alliance and the potential for international education related to textiles in the developing region.

As in a grammar book, this volume looks at the foundations and rules of the Western wardrobe. By exploring each garment with its functions that often called for extremely precise details, we have developed a teaching tool for the general public, using pieces from the author's enormous collection, to help understand the attraction and appeal of a specific garment. In this first volume, we explore the blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets which - Cover us up ! Both an introductory book and a reference document on the culture of fashion, this first book in the series focuses on exterior pieces : blousons, suits, raincoats, coats and jackets for woman and men.

This book seeks to establish the meaning of design research, its role in the field, and the characteristics that differentiate research in design from research in other fields. The author introduces a model to explain the relationship between the components of the ontological reality of design: the designed object, the designer, and the user. Addressing design research across disciplines, the author establishes a foundational understanding of research, and research paradigms, for the design disciplines. This will be crucial for the emerging field of design research to find its own identity and move forward, building its own knowledge base as it finds its positioning between science and art. The book will be of interest to scholars working in design history, design studies, graphic design, industrial design, interior design, architecture, fashion design, and service design.

ADIDAS SUPERSTAR. NIKE AIR MAX. ONITSUKA TIGER CORSAIR. BALENCIAGA TRIPLE S. YEEZY 700. STAN SMITH. VANS OLD SKOOL. AIR JORDAN. With over 300 styles and including all the essential trends and brands, this is the ultimate sneaker handbook.

An Encyclopedia of Men's Poses Poses for fashion illustration is a set of professional template cards tailor-made for developing fashion illustrations and sketches. It is packed with a wide range of occasions, dimensions, and body shapes - to provide all the practical poses you'll ever need in your career. For every fashion designer, Poses for fashion illustration is ready to turn your ideas into your greatest work. All the poses are placed inside a box with a filing system to provide easy access to every single pose. The box includes: Poses Cards x 100 Dividers x 12 Drawing Guide

*NYTBR Paperback Row Selection * The Independent's Best Fashion Book on Sustainability* An investigation into the damage wrought by the colossal clothing industry and the grassroots, high-tech, international movement fighting to reform it What should I wear? It's one of the fundamental questions we ask ourselves every day. More than ever, we are told it should be something new. Today, the clothing industry churns out 80 billion garments a year and employs every sixth person on Earth. Historically, the apparel trade has exploited labor, the environment, and intellectual property-and in the last three decades, with the simultaneous unfurling of fast fashion, globalization, and the tech revolution, those abuses have multiplied exponentially, primarily out of view. We are in dire need of an entirely new human-scale model. Bestselling journalist Dana Thomas has traveled the globe to discover the visionary designers and companies who are propelling the industry toward that more positive future by reclaiming traditional craft and launching cutting-edge sustainable technologies to produce better fashion. In Fashionopolis, Thomas sees renewal in a host of developments, including printing 3-D clothes, clean denim processing, smart manufacturing, hyperlocalism, fabric recycling-even lab-grown materials. From small-town makers and Silicon Valley whizzes to such household names as Stella McCartney, Levi's, and Rent the Runway, Thomas highlights the companies big and small that are leading the crusade. We all have been casual about our clothes. It's time to get dressed with intention. Fashionopolis is the first comprehensive look at how to start.