By today's standards, men wore formal dress every day in the 1890s. The color lithographs and line drawings of men dressed for work that are shown here bear striking contrast to men in the streets now. That very fact makes these clothes more than interesting today, they are actually time capsules for the lifestyle of a century ago. Heavy woolen cloth that has lasted a hundred years, and practical styles that were always comfortable and smart-looking bear witness to the time before automobiles and electricity. Now they have become antiques themselves. The hundreds of cloth swatches that appear have subtle patterns and plenty of texture to withstand much use. Vintage clothing collectors and designers will marvel at their variety.

Costume Design: The Basics provides an overview of the fundamental principles of theatrical costume design, from pre-production through opening night. Beginning with a discussion of what is costume design, why do people wear clothes, and what is the role of the costume designer, this book makes accessible the art and practice of costume design. Peppered with interviews with working costume designers, it provides an understanding of what it means to be a costume designer and offers a strong foundation for additional study. Readers will learn: How to use clues from the script to decipher a character's wardrobe Methods used to sketch ideas using traditional or digital media How to discuss a concept with a team of directors, producers, and designers Strategies to use when collaborating with a professional costume shop How to maintain a healthy work/life balance Courses of action when working under a limited money and labor budget. Costume Design: The Basics is an ideal starting point for aspiring designers looking for ways to achieve the best costumes on stage and realize their vision into a visual story told through clothing.

This series celebrates the Bodleian Library's acquisition of Tom Phillips's archive of over 50,000 photographic postcards dating from the first half of the twentieth century, a period in which, thanks to the ever cheaper medium of photography, 'ordinary' people could afford to own their portraits. Each title in this series is thematically assembled and designed by the artist, the covers featuring a linked painting specially created for each title from Tom Phillips's signature work, A Humument. With an illuminating foreword by Eric Musgrave, 'Menswear' presents postcards of men in all manner of outfits, whether formal, practical or casual, dating from around 1900 up to c. 1949. Most of the subjects are posing for portraits, displaying both their individual style and an interpretation of the fashions of the time. The rich variety of accessories on display includes ties, gloves, pocket squares, walking sticks, canes, boutonnieres and spats.

Annie Holt identifies the roots of contemporary Euro-American practices of costume design, in which costumes are an integrated part of the dramaturgy rather than a reflection of an individual performer's taste or status. She argues that in the period 1820-1920, as part of the larger project of modernism across the artistic and cultural field, the functions of "clothing" and "costume" diverged. Onstage apparel took on a more specific semiotic task, acting as a fresh channel for the flow of information between the performer, the literary text, and the spectator. Modernizing Costume Design traces how five kinds of artists - directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters - made key contributions to this new model of costume design. Holt shows that by 1920, costume design shifted in status from craft to art.

From the momentus invention of the needle some 40,000 years ago to the development of blue denim, from Neolithic weavers to the biggest names in the fashion industry today - this classic guide covers the landmarks of costume history, the forms and materials used through the ages, the underlying motives of fashion and the ways in which clothes have been used to protect, to express identity, and to attract or to influence others. This sixth edition features a new foreword and concluding chapter by Amy de la Haye. The book is brought right up to date with a discussion about the major political shifts within the fashion industry, highlighting how it has responded to issues surrounding racism and sexism; LGBTQI rights; mental health awareness; body and age diversity and global sustainability.

Coco Chanel is arguably the most significant influence on women's fashion in the twentieth century, a key designer to not only have captured a moment in fashion history, but to have shaped the fashion landscape in years to come.

Coco's World is a compilation of Megan Hess' stunning illustrations of the 100 most quintessential moments through Chanel's history, from Coco's incredible life, to the impact of Karl Lagerfeld as creative director of the brand, and the incredible items that have become fashion icons the little black dress, the classic tweed jacket, the luxurious bags, alluring jewellery and, of course, the renowned Chanel No. 5 perfume.

Interspersed with anecdotes and famous quotes from Coco herself, Karl Lagerfeld and other key fashion icons, this book is an elegant and immersive celebration of the moments that shaped Coco and the iconic Chanel brand.

This book investigates the interconnections between textile and architecture via a variety of case studies from the Middle Ages through the twentieth century and from diverse geographic contexts. Among the oldest human technologies, building and weaving have intertwined histories. Textile structures go back to Palaeolithic times and are still in use today and textile furnishings have long been used in interiors. Beyond its use as a material, textile has offered a captivating model and metaphor for architecture through its ability to enclose, tie together, weave, communicate, and adorn. Recently, architects have shown a renewed interest in the textile medium due to the use of computer-aided design, digital fabrication, and innovative materials and engineering. The essays edited and compiled here, work across disciplines to provide new insights into the enduring relationship between textiles and architecture. The contributors critically explore the spatial and material qualities of textiles as well as cultural and political significance of textile artifacts, patterns, and metaphors in architecture. Textile in Architecture is organized into three sections: "Ritual Spaces," which examines the role of textiles in the formation and performance of socio-political, religious, and civic rituals; "Public and Private Interiors" explores how textiles transformed interiors corresponding to changing aesthetics, cultural values, and material practices; and "Materiality and Material Translations," which considers textile as metaphor and model in the materiality of built environment. Including cases from Morocco, Samoa, France, India, UK, Spain, the Ancient Andes and the Ottoman Empire, this is essential reading for any student or researcher interested in textiles in architecture through the ages.

Enter the fascinating world of conversion costuming! Make your own theatrical costumes for less than a day's rental price and make them your way without any conventional sewing using patterns. Included in this book are more than 110 ingenious costume designs with photos and diagrams. Great costumes for standard theatrical characters like: Princess, Prince, Clown, Devil, Witch, Medieval Lady, Elves, Peter Pan, Captain Hook, Pinocchio and many more. Also, costumes for the leading characters in popular shows: Camelot, Oklahoma, Guys and Dolls, King and I, Pirates of Penzance and more. These conversion ideas will save you time, money and deadline disasters and give you precisely the costume you want. Section headings: Materials, Theatrical Costumes, Christmas Costumes, Storybook Costumes, Quick and Easy Costumes, Appendix.

The Blonds is an invitation to designer Phillipe Blond and creative director David Blond s inclusive, wild, and high-octane world. Since 2006, The Blonds have catered to the entertainment industry with glamor-usly over-the-top designs. Celebrities rely on the duo s intricate corsets, catsuits, and dresses for performances, award shows, editorials, and any other special occasion where they need to move and shine. Their first book, as riotous as the brand s legendary New York Fashion Week shows, unfolds in several acts, starting with an introduction to Phillipe and David, detailing their inspirations and how they built their rebellious brand over the last two decades. A chapter on their legendary runway shows includes details of their most iconic looks. The centerpiece showcases editorial and stage photography of celebrities, surrounded by anecdotes from the stars about their performances, life on stage, and their love of The Blonds. Including an in-depth look at the duo s high-profile partnerships, runway shows, and the craftsmanship behind each piece, The Blonds is a backstage pass from sketch to stadium.

Featuring easy-to-follow instructions on all the main basic and intermediate skills required to sew garments from a pattern, Fashion Sewing: Introductory Techniques is an excellent resource for fashion design students who want to improve their sewing skills. The book includes advice on setting up the home sewing studio, an introduction to fabrics, a fitting guide and a wide range of basic and intermediate techniques on stitches, seams, hems and fastenings.Featuring comprehensive instructions, accompanied by large, clear illustrations, this book enables readers to visualize each action and apply key sewing techniques to their own projects.

This book focuses on flame retardants (FR) for textile materials. It discusses basics of flame retardancy and flammability and covers various types of flame retardants and materials, including natural FRs, halogen, phosphorous, and nanomaterial-based FRs. This book also discusses methods of applications of FRs and discusses FRs and the environment. Covers a variety of interdisciplinary applications in the textile industry Emphasizes environmental aspects Reports on a large number of FR compounds studied globally Discusses in detail recent developments in halogen-free eco-friendly flame retardants Extensively describes basic aspects of flame retardancy and their measurements Aimed at the practitioner and textile engineering professional this work aims to ensure development of safe textile materials for various uses, including apparel, protective wear, floor coverings, upholstery, drapery, and others.

In this newest edition to a series, Emerging Fashion Designers 5 continues to be a platform for the next generation of young designers, exhibiting original designs by more than 50 recent graduates from 13 premier fashion design programs in the United States. More than 250 images showcase the designers' fresh perspectives on lingerie, sportswear, menswear, children's wear, evening wear, and more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each young designer, including inspiration and materials. This easy to navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by school and indexed graphically by designer. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion.

From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change.

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.

Contributions by Grace Elizabeth Hale, Katie Knowles, Ted Ownby, Jonathan Prude, William Sturkey, Susannah Walker, Becca Walton, and Sarah Jones WeickselFashion studies have long centered on the art and preservation of finely rendered garments of the upper class, and archival resources used in the study of southern history have gaps and silences. Yet, little study has been given to the approach of clothing as something made, worn, and intimately experienced by enslaved people, incarcerated people, and the poor and working class, and by subcultures perceived as transgressive. The essays in the volume, using clothing as a point of departure, encourage readers to imagine the South's centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants. Contributors explore such topics as how free and enslaved women with few or no legal rights claimed to own clothing in the mid-1800s, how white women in the Confederacy claimed the making of clothing as a form of patriotism, how imprisoned men and women made and imagined their clothing, and clothing cooperatives in civil rights-era Mississippi. An introduction by editors Ted Ownby and Becca Walton asks how best to begin studying clothing and fashion in southern history, and an afterword by Jonathan Prude asks how best to conclude.

As a glance down any street in America quickly reveals, American women have forgotten how to dress. We chase fads, choose inappropriate materials and unattractive cuts, and waste energy tottering in heels when we could be moving gracefully. Quite simply, we lack the fashion know-how we need to dress professionally and flatteringly.As historian and expert dressmaker Linda Przybyszewski reveals in The Lost Art of Dress , it wasn't always like this. In the first half of the twentieth century, a remarkable group of women,the so-called Dress Doctors,taught American women how to stretch each yard of fabric and dress well on a budget. Knowledge not money, they insisted, is the key to timeless fashion. Based in Home Economics departments across the country, the Dress Doctors offered advice on radio shows, at women's clubs, and in magazines. Millions of young girls read their books in school and at 4-H clothing clubs. As Przybyszewski shows, the Dress Doctors' concerns weren't purely superficial: they prized practicality, and empowered women to design and make clothing for both the workplace and the home. They championed skirts that would allow women to move about freely and campaigned against impractical and painful shoes. Armed with the Dress Doctors'simple design principles,harmony, proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis,modern American women from all classes could learn to dress for all occasions in a way that made them confident, engaged members of society.A captivating and beautifully-illustrated look at the world of the Dress Doctors, The Lost Art of Dress introduces a new audience to their timeless rules of fashion and beauty,rules which, with a little help, we can certainly learn again.

Little Book of Chanel is the pocket-sized and beautifully illustrated story of the most celebrated fashion designer in history. Chronicling the life and legacy of Coco Chanel, one of fashion's most influential couturiers, this gorgeous book offers a fascinating account of Chanel's evolution and innovation. From her early days of millinery, through her revolutionary inventions in sportswear and jersey fashions for women, to the classics that made her name, such as the Chanel cardigan jacket, little black dress and exquisite perfumes. Detailed photographs and sketches of Chanel's designs, along with fashion photography and catwalk shots, pay tribute to one of the world's most highly regarded fashion houses and the woman behind it, making a striking gift for any lover of fashion.

The Fashion Designer's Sketchbook is a must-have resource for both fashion students and practising designers who wish to learn new ways of generating design ideas in order to create successful fashion collections, and who wish to develop their own creative aesthetic. It demonstrates how the fashion design sketchbook serves as a crucial creative tool for professional development - and a valuable portfolio of design work to present to potential employers. This book identifies four distinct types of creative journal, each representing a different phase in the design process: the inspiration diary, the working journal, the presentation journal and the design log; and it explores how one develops out of the other, each stage in the idea generation process moving the process forward organically from discovery, to direction, to design development and delivery. The Fashion Designer's Sketchbook shows readers how to turn their sketchbooks into source books; how to generate design ideas from everyday experience; explores multiple ways of presenting and arranging elements within pages; details digital search and storage techniques as well as bulletin board journalling; and provides exercises to improve readers' illustration skills and enquiry, promoting in-store sketching and visual analysis to focus awareness of design aesthetics, taste levels and design vision. The book also explores the need to address market realities, consumer profiles and trend analysis, and shows how to build design collections based on target customer demographics and different markets. Beautifully illustrated and filled with a vast range of inspirational and full-colour design illustrations, The Fashion Designer's Sketchbook also features interviews with designers and industry experts. With a strong emphasis on exploratory design, this exciting resource provides readers with stimulating exercises designed to enable readers' sketchbook work and their creative vision to shine.

An inspiration to countless designers and the stomping ground of fashion's in-crowd, London is the capital of subculture. From Mary Quant to Alexander McQueen, from punks to goths, and from Twiggy to Naomi Campbell, Little Book of London Style is the beautifully illustrated guide to the essential brands, trends and people that make up the style DNA of this unique city.

More than 350 photographs of historic fabric swatches explore design variations in foulards, the small motifs printed on silks and related fabrics that were intended for men's ties and dressing gowns. Take an inspiring visual tour of designs, from the traditional to pop art, in foulard prints. An invaluable guide for the historian and student, a treasure of ideas and inspiration for designers.

Take a look at the wild, bold, colorful, and naughty designs that have swelled men's chests throughout necktie history. Follow the development of this manly fashion, from fabrics to tie care, and enjoy an astounding kaleidoscope of colors and motifs. Hundreds of neck and bow ties from the late twentieth century are displayed in 340 color pictures. The designs range from the incredible "Bold Look" ties of the late 1940s and early 1950s to the thinly conservative ties of the late 1950s. The early 1960s produced mundane ties, but Pop, Op, and Psychedelic Art ushered in another era in the late 1960s and early 1970s called the "Peacock Look," characterized by extremely wide ties and extravagantly wild prints. Finally, take a tour of the stylistic progression ties made through the 1980s and 1990s.

Numerous designers have pioneered cutting-edge garments and collections throughout the evolution of fashion. But all too often a lack of obvious fit or purpose has been mistaken for a lack of design sophistication. In an informed defence of innovative fashion, Why You Can Go Out Dressed Like That champions the improbable, the provocative, the uncomfortable and the seemingly ridiculous. Inspired by diverse sources, theories and concepts, as well as futuristic textiles and techniques, the book explores the groundbreaking work of designers who strive to extend the boundaries of their creativity. There are no fixed elements to the 100 designs featured in this book, which range from the cerebral conceptions of Comme des Garcons, to the augmented anatomies of Thierry Mugler and the exaggerated physicality of Thom Browne's broad-shouldered men. The garments do not have to fulfil a function, keep you warm, or increase sexual attraction, nor do they have to beguile or disarm. They do need to have impact at the time of creation and to prove influential in the longer term. Many original designs elicit the response: `You can't go out dressed like that!'. Marnie Fogg proves decisively that modern fashion is not as outrageous and unwearable as it may seem.