There is increasing interest in the area of protective vests, either for protection against bullets or protection from the most realistic threats within domestic frontline operations: edged weapon, knives, and medical needles. This volume addresses that need. This new book provides an in-depth survey of the state-of-the-art research and practical techniques in the area of protected fabrics, especially stab-resistant and bulletproof fabrics. The book covers: * The history of protective armor: the long history of the art of protective armor manufacturing. * Materials used for body armor: the design and materials used for soft armor to increase its perforation-resistance utilizing high-performance fibers. * Anti-stab and anti-bullet armor design: the different design parameters required for the design of flexible armor in order to stop high-velocity projectiles. * The comfort of the body armor design: the flexibility, thermal resistivity, and evaporative moisture resistivity through the fabric. * Methods of testing the flexible body armors: testing the components of flexible body armor, according to the level of the protection required, such as NIJ Standards, HOSDB Body Armour Standards for UK Police, and the German SK1 Standard, among others. Written by an expert in textile composite material engineering, this volume fills an important gap in the area of protective fabric against stabbing or bullets and provides invaluable practical knowledge for body armor design.

Ruth E. Carter is a living legend of costume design. For three decades, she has shaped the story of the Black experience on screen - from the eighties streetwear of DO THE RIGHT THING to the royal regalia of COMING 2 AMERICA. Her work on Marvel's BLACK PANTHER not only brought Afrofuturism to the mainstream, but also made her the first Black winner of an Oscar in costume design. In 2021, she became the second-ever costume designer to receive a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. In this definitive book, Carter shares her origins - recalling a trip to the sporting goods store with Spike Lee to outfit the SCHOOL DAZE cast and a transformative moment stepping inside history on the set of Steven Spielberg's AMISTAD. She recounts anecdotes from dressing the greats: Eddie Murphy, Samuel L. Jackson, Angela Bassett, Halle Berry, Chadwick Boseman, and many more. She describes the passion for history that inspired her period pieces - from MALCOLM X to WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT - and her journey into Afrofuturism. Carter's wisdom and stories are paired with deluxe visuals, including sketches, mood boards, and film stills. Stunning photography by Awol Erizku reveals the beautiful details of Carter's most iconic creations. Fans will even get a glimpse behind the scenes of the highly anticipated BLACK PANTHER: WAKANDA FOREVER. At its core, Carter's oeuvre celebrates Black heroes and sheroes, whether civil rights leaders or Wakandan warriors. She has brought the past to life and helped us imagine a brighter future. This book is sure to inspire the next generation of artists and storytellers.

Stunning new fashion designs in 285 color images. These are fresh, innovative creations from collections by recent graduates of sixteen of the most respected fashion design programs at colleges and universities across the United States. Garments from more than 100 talented designers now entering the fashion industry are featured, including looks for eveningwear, menswear, childrenswear, sportswear, and more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each designer, including inspiration, materials, flats, and full-color fashion illustrations. This easy to navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by designer and indexed graphically by school. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion.

This book examines the ways in which luxury fashion brands use their heritage in their digital storytelling and marketing. With chapters from authors in China and Macau (PRC), India, Romania, Turkey, the United Kingdom, and the United States, covering British, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indian, Italian, and Turkish brands, this truly global collection is the first book of its kind devoted solely to the emerging study of digital heritage storytelling. This method of reaching potential consumers and perpetuating brand identity is a hugely important factor in the marketing of luxury brands and has yet to be studied comprehensively. The book will be of interest to scholars working in fashion studies, fashion history, design history, design studies, digital humanities, and fashion marketing.

Optimization and decision making are integral parts of any manufacturing process and management system. The objective of this book is to demonstrate the confluence of theory and applications of various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization techniques with reference to textile manufacturing and management. Divided into twelve chapters, it discusses various multi-criteria decision-making methods such as AHP, TOPSIS, ELECTRE, and optimization techniques like linear programming, fuzzy linear programming, quadratic programming, in textile domain. Multi-objective optimization problems have been dealt with two approaches, namely desirability function and evolutionary algorithm. Key Features Exclusive title covering textiles and soft computing fields including optimization and decision making Discusses concepts of traditional and non-traditional optimization methods with textile examples Explores pertinent single-objective and multi-objective optimizations Provides MATLAB coding in the Appendix to solve various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization problems Includes examples and case studies related to textile engineering and management

By today's standards, men wore formal dress every day in the 1890s. The color lithographs and line drawings of men dressed for work that are shown here bear striking contrast to men in the streets now. That very fact makes these clothes more than interesting today, they are actually time capsules for the lifestyle of a century ago. Heavy woolen cloth that has lasted a hundred years, and practical styles that were always comfortable and smart-looking bear witness to the time before automobiles and electricity. Now they have become antiques themselves. The hundreds of cloth swatches that appear have subtle patterns and plenty of texture to withstand much use. Vintage clothing collectors and designers will marvel at their variety.

The wide range of sixties fabric designs reflected the transition from the comforting tranquility of the early years to the bolder, more "hip" end of the decade. Funky Fabrics of the 60s takes you on a nostalgic tour of pastel and splashy florals, patchwork calicos, denims and stripes, wild abstract geometrics, and neon paisleys. Whether you admired Jackie Kennedy's elegant style or danced barefoot in a peasant dress as a "flower child", this full color book with hundreds of designs will bring back memories of a unique time.

Contributions by Grace Elizabeth Hale, Katie Knowles, Ted Ownby, Jonathan Prude, William Sturkey, Susannah Walker, Becca Walton, and Sarah Jones WeickselFashion studies have long centered on the art and preservation of finely rendered garments of the upper class, and archival resources used in the study of southern history have gaps and silences. Yet, little study has been given to the approach of clothing as something made, worn, and intimately experienced by enslaved people, incarcerated people, and the poor and working class, and by subcultures perceived as transgressive. The essays in the volume, using clothing as a point of departure, encourage readers to imagine the South's centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants. Contributors explore such topics as how free and enslaved women with few or no legal rights claimed to own clothing in the mid-1800s, how white women in the Confederacy claimed the making of clothing as a form of patriotism, how imprisoned men and women made and imagined their clothing, and clothing cooperatives in civil rights-era Mississippi. An introduction by editors Ted Ownby and Becca Walton asks how best to begin studying clothing and fashion in southern history, and an afterword by Jonathan Prude asks how best to conclude.

Anita Pallenberg, instantly recognisable as a member of The Rolling Stones rock n roll circus in the Sixties and Seventies, was no docile groupie. Fluent in four languages, she partied with the jet set in Rome, met Warhol, Ginsberg and Ferlinghetti in New York, was at home with London s leading lights of popular culture and went on to star in over a dozen films, perhaps most notably in Performance. A German-Italian rebel and social phenomenon, Anita consistently gravitated towards the next wave of movers and shakers. Based on exclusive interviews with friends and family, and full of her extraordinary adventures with the rich and famous, as well as her personal triumphs and tragedies, She's a Rainbow delves deep into her fascinating and moving story for the first time ever.

Costume Design: The Basics provides an overview of the fundamental principles of theatrical costume design, from pre-production through opening night. Beginning with a discussion of what is costume design, why do people wear clothes, and what is the role of the costume designer, this book makes accessible the art and practice of costume design. Peppered with interviews with working costume designers, it provides an understanding of what it means to be a costume designer and offers a strong foundation for additional study. Readers will learn: How to use clues from the script to decipher a character's wardrobe Methods used to sketch ideas using traditional or digital media How to discuss a concept with a team of directors, producers, and designers Strategies to use when collaborating with a professional costume shop How to maintain a healthy work/life balance Courses of action when working under a limited money and labor budget. Costume Design: The Basics is an ideal starting point for aspiring designers looking for ways to achieve the best costumes on stage and realize their vision into a visual story told through clothing.

This series celebrates the Bodleian Library's acquisition of Tom Phillips's archive of over 50,000 photographic postcards dating from the first half of the twentieth century, a period in which, thanks to the ever cheaper medium of photography, 'ordinary' people could afford to own their portraits. Each title in this series is thematically assembled and designed by the artist, the covers featuring a linked painting specially created for each title from Tom Phillips's signature work, A Humument. With an illuminating foreword by Eric Musgrave, 'Menswear' presents postcards of men in all manner of outfits, whether formal, practical or casual, dating from around 1900 up to c. 1949. Most of the subjects are posing for portraits, displaying both their individual style and an interpretation of the fashions of the time. The rich variety of accessories on display includes ties, gloves, pocket squares, walking sticks, canes, boutonnieres and spats.

Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology discusses the design and manufacture of intimate apparel and how the industry is increasingly embracing novel materials, new technologies, and innovations in sizing and fit. The book reviews the ways in which new materials and methods are improving the range, function, and quality of intimate apparel, with particular focus on brassiere design. Part One introduces the advanced materials used for intimate apparel, including novel fabrics and dyes and finishes, along with materials for wiring and embellishments. Part Two discusses the role of seamless technology in intimate apparel production, covering lamination, moulding, and seamless knitting. Finally, Part Three reviews advances in design, fit, and performance.

Annie Holt identifies the roots of contemporary Euro-American practices of costume design, in which costumes are an integrated part of the dramaturgy rather than a reflection of an individual performer's taste or status. She argues that in the period 1820-1920, as part of the larger project of modernism across the artistic and cultural field, the functions of "clothing" and "costume" diverged. Onstage apparel took on a more specific semiotic task, acting as a fresh channel for the flow of information between the performer, the literary text, and the spectator. Modernizing Costume Design traces how five kinds of artists - directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters - made key contributions to this new model of costume design. Holt shows that by 1920, costume design shifted in status from craft to art.

From camisoles to corsets, basques to boudoir caps and girdles to garters, Underwear: Fashion in Detail gets up close to some of the most intimate items in the V&A. The book traces the evolution of underwear, from rare examples dating from the sixteenth century and the exaggerated shapes of eighteenth-century courtly undergarments, to Dior's curvaceous 'New Look' girdles to contemporary lingerie by Agent Provocateur and Rigby and Peller. Meticulous colour photography shows these fascinating garments in close detail, while intricate line drawings reveal their construction. The book also highlights the work of designers such as Vionnet and Westwood, who have taken influence from underwear for their own outerwear creations.

Enter the fascinating world of conversion costuming! Make your own theatrical costumes for less than a day's rental price and make them your way without any conventional sewing using patterns. Included in this book are more than 110 ingenious costume designs with photos and diagrams. Great costumes for standard theatrical characters like: Princess, Prince, Clown, Devil, Witch, Medieval Lady, Elves, Peter Pan, Captain Hook, Pinocchio and many more. Also, costumes for the leading characters in popular shows: Camelot, Oklahoma, Guys and Dolls, King and I, Pirates of Penzance and more. These conversion ideas will save you time, money and deadline disasters and give you precisely the costume you want. Section headings: Materials, Theatrical Costumes, Christmas Costumes, Storybook Costumes, Quick and Easy Costumes, Appendix.

This book investigates the interconnections between textile and architecture via a variety of case studies from the Middle Ages through the twentieth century and from diverse geographic contexts. Among the oldest human technologies, building and weaving have intertwined histories. Textile structures go back to Palaeolithic times and are still in use today and textile furnishings have long been used in interiors. Beyond its use as a material, textile has offered a captivating model and metaphor for architecture through its ability to enclose, tie together, weave, communicate, and adorn. Recently, architects have shown a renewed interest in the textile medium due to the use of computer-aided design, digital fabrication, and innovative materials and engineering. The essays edited and compiled here, work across disciplines to provide new insights into the enduring relationship between textiles and architecture. The contributors critically explore the spatial and material qualities of textiles as well as cultural and political significance of textile artifacts, patterns, and metaphors in architecture. Textile in Architecture is organized into three sections: "Ritual Spaces," which examines the role of textiles in the formation and performance of socio-political, religious, and civic rituals; "Public and Private Interiors" explores how textiles transformed interiors corresponding to changing aesthetics, cultural values, and material practices; and "Materiality and Material Translations," which considers textile as metaphor and model in the materiality of built environment. Including cases from Morocco, Samoa, France, India, UK, Spain, the Ancient Andes and the Ottoman Empire, this is essential reading for any student or researcher interested in textiles in architecture through the ages.

The Blonds is an invitation to designer Phillipe Blond and creative director David Blond s inclusive, wild, and high-octane world. Since 2006, The Blonds have catered to the entertainment industry with glamor-usly over-the-top designs. Celebrities rely on the duo s intricate corsets, catsuits, and dresses for performances, award shows, editorials, and any other special occasion where they need to move and shine. Their first book, as riotous as the brand s legendary New York Fashion Week shows, unfolds in several acts, starting with an introduction to Phillipe and David, detailing their inspirations and how they built their rebellious brand over the last two decades. A chapter on their legendary runway shows includes details of their most iconic looks. The centerpiece showcases editorial and stage photography of celebrities, surrounded by anecdotes from the stars about their performances, life on stage, and their love of The Blonds. Including an in-depth look at the duo s high-profile partnerships, runway shows, and the craftsmanship behind each piece, The Blonds is a backstage pass from sketch to stadium.

This book focuses on flame retardants (FR) for textile materials. It discusses basics of flame retardancy and flammability and covers various types of flame retardants and materials, including natural FRs, halogen, phosphorous, and nanomaterial-based FRs. This book also discusses methods of applications of FRs and discusses FRs and the environment. Covers a variety of interdisciplinary applications in the textile industry Emphasizes environmental aspects Reports on a large number of FR compounds studied globally Discusses in detail recent developments in halogen-free eco-friendly flame retardants Extensively describes basic aspects of flame retardancy and their measurements Aimed at the practitioner and textile engineering professional this work aims to ensure development of safe textile materials for various uses, including apparel, protective wear, floor coverings, upholstery, drapery, and others.

In this newest edition to a series, Emerging Fashion Designers 5 continues to be a platform for the next generation of young designers, exhibiting original designs by more than 50 recent graduates from 13 premier fashion design programs in the United States. More than 250 images showcase the designers' fresh perspectives on lingerie, sportswear, menswear, children's wear, evening wear, and more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each young designer, including inspiration and materials. This easy to navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by school and indexed graphically by designer. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion.

From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change.

Keiko Okamoto's Japanese Knitting Stitches presents 150 exquisite knitting and crochet stitches from one of Japan's most prolific and innovative designers. Her designs range from classic to ethnic to quirky in colours ranging from earthy to vivid. Keiko Okamoto is recognized around the world for her colourful and textural stitches, and this book features beautiful colour photos showing the full potential of these stitch patterns. An introduction by veteran Japanese knitting expert Gayle Roehm translator of Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible and 250 Japanese Knitting Stitches explains the ins and outs of using the Japanese-style knitting charts and executing the stitches in a way that is simple and easy for all knitters to understand. Full instructions and diagrams for crochet and knitting projects offer a chance to put these stitches to use. These projects include: A cardigan with charming crocheted strawberry garland A multi-coloured, fringed neck wrap A pair of funky, sculptural arm-warmers toasty and multi-textured A charming Fair Isle knitted basket bag A pair of fluffy, cuffed mittens An elegant A-line textured wool sweater suitable for any body type A chic Nordic-patterned short coat. This book will be a prized addition to every knitter's library, and a favourite reference for years to come!

Winner of 'History Book of the Year' in Scotland's National Book Awards 2021 A brilliant book revealing the complex messages that Stuart fashion conveyed about individual rulers' personalities, and about kingship more broadly This is the first detailed analysis of elite men's clothing in 17th-century Scotland and its influence on English male fashion. Focusing on the years 1566 through 1701, it centers on the clothing choices of five Stuart royals: James VI and I, Prince Henry, Charles I, Charles II, and James VII and II. The engaging text brims with details about the wardrobes and habits of Scottish royalty, such as how the men selected fabric and kept clothes clean. The book is organized along three themes: the significance of the Stuarts' Scottish heritage in the style they developed; the role of Scots in exporting their style to London and beyond; and the reception of Stuart style among the male elite in Scotland. Maria Hayward explores how Stuart style was displayed in sport, at political and social events, and at church. The book also reveals the importance of vital supporting players-namely, the courtiers who helped kings and princes develop their style, as well as the tailors who disseminated it to men beyond the royal court.

Everyone knows Steve Madden's name and his shoes, but few are familiar with his story. Over the past thirty years Steve Madden has taken his eponymous shoe company from the fledgling start up he founded with a mere $1,100 to a global, multi-billion dollar brand. But Madden's mistakes, from his battle with addiction to the financial shortcuts that landed him in prison, are as important to his story as his most iconic shoes. In this raw, intimate, and ultimately inspiring book, Madden holds nothing back as he shares what it took to get here and the lessons he's learned along the way. From his unconventional hiring strategies to his slavish devotion to product, Madden offers a business perspective that is as unique as his styles. In The Cobbler, readers are treated to the wild ride though his rise, fall, and comeback. But they will also walk away uplifted by a man who has owned up to his mistakes and come back determined to give back and use his hard-won platform to create positive change.

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.