Is there a peculiarly English 'look' and if so how does one define it? From the 'traditional' dress of the Victorian rural working class through to the contemporary collections of Vivienne Westwood and a younger generation of London-based designers, notions of Englishness, either real or imagined, have always been at play in considerations of English fashion and clothing. This provocative book explores how far these fraught ideals can be applied to the dress of the past and present. English expressions of taste and creativity have had a profound influence on style over the last three centuries, and the pursuit and subversion of an English 'look' have shaped conceptions of fashionability from the pastoralism of the eighteenth-century through to the eras of Twiggy, Punk and beyond. But are these simply stereotypical characterizations that relate to an imagined 'Englishness', or is there some concrete basis for them? If the former, what has led to their development? If the latter, what definitions can be employed to unravel such complicated conceptions of national identity? What role has social decorum played in developing an 'English' style, and is this preoccupation with etiquette in fact unique to England ? With chapters authored by leading scholars in the fields of costume history, social history and cultural studies, this is the first book to examine the ways in which fashion and dress might be considered in the context of national identities as they apply in England. Presenting an overview of how particular designers and consumer groups have striven to present or contest versions of Englishness through clothing from the 18th through to the 21st centuries, it will fascinate anyone interested in dress history, national and ethnic identity or English cultural history.

A striking, sumptuous portfolio of catwalk and behind-the-scene images of John Galliano's highly creative collections for his eponymous label John Galliano's (b. 1960) ascent in the world of fashion design was swift and filled with acclaim for his bold, quick-witted sensibility and his theatrical flair. He became head designer for Givenchy in 1995, and then for Christian Dior in 1996, and directed his own fashion label between 1996 and 2011. He was named Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards four times. Currently creative director of the Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela, Galliano has fascinated the fashion world with his often outrageous and whimsical creations, including some of the most memorable collections of the 20th century: from the iconic Suzie Sphinx collection to luxurious and edgy reinventions of Chinese, Peruvian, Yemeni, or Mongolian costumes. Unfolding chronologically with short texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox introducing each collection, John Galliano: Unseen captures the designer's mesmerizing creations for his eponymous label (including rich and idiosyncratic details) and the intense backstage work of Galliano's trusted collaborators. Robert Fairer's long stint as backstage photographer for Vogue gives him a unique perspective, and his exquisite photographs of Galliano's collections, many of which are published here for the first time, offer insights into the extravagance and playfulness of one of the world's most flamboyant, innovative, and controversial fashion designers at the zenith of his career.

Little Book of Chanel is the pocket-sized and beautifully illustrated story of the most celebrated fashion designer in history. Chronicling the life and legacy of Coco Chanel, one of fashion's most influential couturiers, this gorgeous book offers a fascinating account of Chanel's evolution and innovation. From her early days of millinery, through her revolutionary inventions in sportswear and jersey fashions for women, to the classics that made her name, such as the Chanel cardigan jacket, little black dress and exquisite perfumes. Detailed photographs and sketches of Chanel's designs, along with fashion photography and catwalk shots, pay tribute to one of the world's most highly regarded fashion houses and the woman behind it, making a striking gift for any lover of fashion.

No beginner should be without this book. Paper patterns often give insufficient information, but here clear diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions provide a method of working which is easy to follow. This comprehensive and practical book covers every aspect of making your own clothes from choosing machines, tools and equipment to the various stitches and hem finishes. Clear drawings illustrate the techniques needed to become a proficient dressmaker.

In this practical guide, Michelle Pye demystifies the process of making a handmade jacket. As an experienced bespoke tailor and teacher, she explains each step of the process from making a toile for fitting, cutting out, inserting the pockets, the application of the sleeves and collar, through to hand finishing and pressing the jacket. Much emphasis is placed on the preparation stage and then the alteration steps to ensure you get a fantastic fit. As well as explaining tailoring terms, Ladies Couture Tailoring warns of common mistakes and describes the techniques of the trade - such as using a clapper to absorb steam or shrinking out fullness to make the sleeve easier to put in - so you can enjoy making your jacket as much as wearing it. It is a rare opportunity to learn from an experienced tailor keen to share her skills and advise you throughout with her personal tips.

How does a style become a fashion? Why do trends spread and decline? Introducing Fashion Theory explores these questions and more to help you quickly get up-to-speed with fashion theories, from scarcity to conformity, through clear practical examples and fascinating case studies. This second edition, re-titled from Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry, includes expanded coverage on cultural appropriation, corporate greenwashing, and the criminal world of counterfeit goods. - Illustrated examples, from Apple's post-postmodernist iWatch to Savage X Fenty's body image message on diversity - Covers core fashion theories, from trickle-down to trickle-up, to political dress and conspicuous consumption - Filled with learning activities, key terms, chapter summaries, and discussion questions to inspire and inform

Ahead of the Curve is the first sewing book to empower curvy and plus size women to feel body confident by sewing a wardrobe that fits. Don't change your body to fit your clothes - change your clothes to fit your body! Ahead of the Curve includes 5 basic garment patterns (UK sizes 16-36/US size 12-32/EUR sizes 44-64), which includes a pair of trousers, a t-shirt, a sleeveless top and two dress designs. Jenny takes you through a series of "Fit Clinics" - tutorials and case studies demystifying the fitting process - showing you how to adjust these patterns to master the perfect fit for your body shape. Once you have got to grips with this, you can go on to customize your closet and create an unlimited array of fantastic clothes that celebrate your body. If you're curvy or plus size, trying to find clothes that fit and reflect your personal style can be incredibly difficult and frustrating. Plus size women feel constantly excluded and like they can't express their personality through clothes. This book finally changes that.

A Cultural History of Jewish Dress is the first comprehensive account of how Jews have been distinguished by their appearance from Ancient Israel to the present. For centuries Jews have dressed in distinctive ways to communicate their devotion to God, their religious identity, and the proper earthly roles of men and women. This lively work explores the rich history of Jewish dress, examining how Jews and non-Jews alike debated and legislated Jewish attire in different places, as well as outlining the big debates on dress within the Jewish community today. Focusing on tensions over gender, ethnic identity and assimilation, each chapter discusses the meaning and symbolism of a specific era or type of Jewish dress. What were biblical and rabbinic fashions? Why was clothing so important to immigrant Jews in America? Why do Hassidic Jews wear black? When did yarmulkes become bar mitzvah souvenirs? The book also offers the first analysis of how young Jewish adults today announce on caps, shirts, and even undergarments their striving to transform Jewishness from a religious and historical heritage into an ethnic identity that is hip, racy, and irreverent. Fascinating and accessibly written, A Cultural History of Jewish Dress will appeal to anybody interested in the central role of clothing in defining Jewish identity.

The relationship between popular music and fashion has been culturally significant since the 1950s, and this book explores the ways in which music and musicians play a key role in the shaping of identity, taste and consumption. Using a range of historical and contemporary examples, this book uncovers the way in which fashion and music have worked to shape contemporary attitudes to bodies and identities.
Focusing on performers as much as fans, on the mainstream as much as the underground, "Fashion and Music" provides a lens through which to examine themes of gender, sexuality, ageing and youth, ethnicity, body image, consumer culture, fandom and postmodernity.

In the later months of 1874, the great French poet, Stephane Mallarme, undertook a highly idiosyncratic project - the publication of a fashion magazine (La Derniere Mode) that he almost single-handedly wrote and edited. Using a variety of feminine and masculine pseudonyms to theorize about the concept of fashion and to report and advise on womens clothing, popular vacation destinations, home furnishings and entertainment, Mallarme created a spectacularly original work that lies somewhere between Baudelaires seminal treatment of fashion in his essay on modernity, The Painter of Modern Life, and The Fashion System, Barthes brilliant semiology of clothing in the latter twentieth century. But the distinguishing feature of Mallarms magazine, and what differentiates it from the writing of Baudelaire and Barthes, is that it explores the nature of fashion from the inside. It is a genuine fashion magazine aspiring to lead fashion, though at the same time, by ingenious and appealing ironies, subtly satirizing this whole genre of writing. Various theories have been entertained about the work in the past, such as its being a prose poem, or alternatively a hoax or a mere money-making venture, but the present translators, in their commentary, argue that such guesses are hopelessly off the mark. Complete with the original artwork and a contextualizing introduction and commentary, Furbank and Cains definitive translation of one of French literatures greatest puzzles and surprises represents a major contribution to students, critics, theoreticians, and intellectual historians alike.

Learn to paint outstanding fashion watercolors with expert guidance from a leading fashion illustrator. Watercolor is a wonderful medium for figure and fashion as it creates loose, impressionistic results that capture the essence of a look without getting too bogged down in the details. In this complete course, professional fashion illustrator Francesco Lo Iacono shows you how to master creating delicate, beautiful fashion illustrations. The book begins with the best tools and materials, from paints and brushes to pencils, paper and more. You'll then explore simple watercolor techniques such as washes, wet-on-wet, wet-on-dry, and using the white of the paper. Francesco then goes on to teach you about lighting and shading, which can have a dramatic effect on your work. And finally in the front section, you'll learn about colour, how to create palettes, how to mix colours and achieving a range of skin tones. Once you've covered these fundamentals, Francesco explores the key elements of illustrating fashion, with guidance on how to approach both male and female faces, a wide variety of hair types and styles, different male and female poses, and how to draw and paint garments, reflecting tailoring, drapery, volume, texture and patterns. Twenty step-by-step projects then take these building blocks and show you how to use them to create beautiful fashion watercolors, starting with easier subjects and building in complexity as your confidence grows. You'll begin by painting handbags and shoes without models before starting to introduce figures. The range of subjects included covers all angles, from full figures front on and in profile to close-up make-up and beauty illustrations. You'll also learn how to create dynamic compositions for editorial fashion illustration. Finally, Francesco covers the best ways to digitize and retouch your work, how to incorporate other media alongside your watercolors, how to work live at fashion events and how to take everything you've learned to develop your own personal style of fashion illustration. Francesco's clients include fashion brands Dior, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton - and with this book you'll have all the tools you need to become an A-list fashion illustrator too.

Deco dandy contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the style moderne (art deco) by exploring how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the 'deco dandy'. The book suggests a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body, masculinity and the dandy in this history than has been given to date. Important and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book provide insights into the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity. -- .

Perfect for students of costume design and history, A Handbook of Costume Drawing illustrates and describes the dominant male and female costume silhouettes for major historical periods ranging from Egyptian dynasties through the 1960s. Important details, including head and footwear, hair styles, fashion accessories, shoulders, waist, hem, and neckline are provided to maximize the historical accuracy of each design and to help you fully recreate the look and feel of each period.
Teaches how to draw a well-proportioned human body
Discusses the differences in fit between historical and contemporary clothing
Explains how to develop a stunning portfolio

Exploring the debate over the benefits of legal protection for fashion design, this book focuses on how a combination of minimal legal protections for design, evolving social norms, digital technology, and market forces can promote innovation and creativity in a business known for its fast-paced remixing and borrowing. Focusing on the advantages and disadvantages of the main US and EU IP laws that protect fashion design in the world's biggest fashion markets, it describes how recent US case law in copyright and trademark cases has led to misaligned incentives for the industry and a lack of clear protection, while in the EU, the CJEU's interpretation of the pan-European design rights system has created significant overlap with copyright law and risks leading to the overprotection of design. The book proposes that creativity and innovation in fashion derive some benefit from a limited unregistered design right protection and that cumulation with copyright protection is unhelpful. It also proposes that there is a larger role for developing social norms relating to sustainability, the ethics of cultural appropriation, and the online shaming of counterfeiters, that can also help create a fair equilibrium between protection and borrowing in fashion design.

This book documents the rise (and rise) of fashion design in China. Told through the stories of three generations of designers: those born in the 20s and 30s, who were active before the establishment of the People's Republic of China in 1949; those born in the 1950s and 60s, when fashion in China was isolated from the rest of the world and the wearing of "Mao suits" became obligatory; and those born in the 1970s and later, who are now attempting to integrate China in to the global fashion industry, not only as producers of clothing but as designers and marketers as well.
Chinese fashion in the past half-century is a fascinating case study, given that the country began in penury, isolation, and political correctness, went through a phase of militant anti-fashion ideology, and is now rapidly developing internationally-minded, and eager to challenge the world in all fields of endeavour. Written by an insider, this book provides a fascinating survey based on the personal, professional and creative experiences of the most influential Chinese fashion designers. As such it will be welcomed by all students of contemporary fashion and design.

In this classic book, Norah Waugh explores the changing shapes of women's dress from the 1500s to the 1920s. Simple laced bodices became corsets of cane, whalebone and steel, while padding at shoulders and hips gave way to the structures of farthingales, hoops and bustles. Corsets and Crinolines explains the cyclical nature of these fashions, and how waists and skirts changed shape and size through three distinct eras: The 1500s to 1670-farthingales and whaleboned bodies. 1670 to 1800-Stays and hooped petticoats. 1800 to 1925-corsets, crinolines and bustles. Each section describes how these garments originated, how they became popular and how they emerged as central to the fashions of the time. Extracts from diaries, journals, poems and newspapers, as well as over 100 illustrations, demonstrate the variety of these ubiquitous items of clothing throughout modern history. Corsets and Crinolines also contains a wealth of practical notes and resources for today's costume makers and designers, including: Scaleable patterns for the construction of 25 different bustles, crinolines, corsets, corselets, stays, pocket hoops, hooped petticoats and bodices. Detailed appendices on the manufacture of corsets and crinolines, including farthingales, supports and hooped petticoats. A list of further reading, including costume histories; textile and weaving histories; reconstruction of period clothing; contemporary application of foundational garments; and a list of museums and institutions with period clothing collections, for first-hand study. A glossary of terms and materials.

Moquette is the carpet-like fabric covering the seats we sit on in London's Tubes, buses, trams and Overground trains - and here is a brilliantly colourful guide to all its patterns. London Transport has always wanted the best design, be it Charles Holden's superb art deco Tube stations on the Piccadilly Line, its elegant Johnston typeface or Harry Beck's Tube map. And this pursuit of excellence has extended even to the design of the fabrics it covers our bus and Tube seats with: moquette. In the Thirties top artists like Paul Nash and Enid Marx were commissioned to design patterns; nowadays every line like Crossrail or the Overground gets its own unique, colour-co-ordinated moquette pattern. Now, in conjunction with the London Transport Museum, which has the definitive London Transport moquette archive, Andrew Martin has written a delightful, surprising and covetable guide to all these patterns, from the first horse bus to the latest Tube train.

This book presents high-quality original contributions on the fashion supply chain. A wide spectrum of application domains are covered, processing of big data coming from digital and social media channels, fashion new product development, fashion design, fashion marketing and communication strategy, business models and entrepreneurship, e-commerce and omni-channel management, corporate social responsibility, new materials for fashion product, wearable technologies. The contents are based on presentations delivered at IT4Fashion 2016, the 6th International Conference in Business Models and ICT Technologies for the Fashion Supply Chain, which was held in Florence, Italy, in April 2016. This conference series represents a targeted response to the growing need for research that reports and debates supply chain business models and technologies applied to the fashion industry, with the aim of increasing knowledge in the area of product lifecycle management and supply chain management in that industry.