This book investigates the interconnections between textile and architecture via a variety of case studies from the Middle Ages through the twentieth century and from diverse geographic contexts. Among the oldest human technologies, building and weaving have intertwined histories. Textile structures go back to Palaeolithic times and are still in use today and textile furnishings have long been used in interiors. Beyond its use as a material, textile has offered a captivating model and metaphor for architecture through its ability to enclose, tie together, weave, communicate, and adorn. Recently, architects have shown a renewed interest in the textile medium due to the use of computer-aided design, digital fabrication, and innovative materials and engineering. The essays edited and compiled here, work across disciplines to provide new insights into the enduring relationship between textiles and architecture. The contributors critically explore the spatial and material qualities of textiles as well as cultural and political significance of textile artifacts, patterns, and metaphors in architecture. Textile in Architecture is organized into three sections: "Ritual Spaces," which examines the role of textiles in the formation and performance of socio-political, religious, and civic rituals; "Public and Private Interiors" explores how textiles transformed interiors corresponding to changing aesthetics, cultural values, and material practices; and "Materiality and Material Translations," which considers textile as metaphor and model in the materiality of built environment. Including cases from Morocco, Samoa, France, India, UK, Spain, the Ancient Andes and the Ottoman Empire, this is essential reading for any student or researcher interested in textiles in architecture through the ages.

Object Lessons is a series of short, beautifully designed books about the hidden lives of ordinary things. Few clothing items are as ubiquitous or casual as blue jeans. Yet, their simplicity is deceptive. Blue jeans are nothing if not an exercise in opposites. Americans have accepted jeans as a symbol of their culture, but today jeans are a global consumer product category. Levi Strauss made blue jeans in the 1870s to withstand the hard work of mining, but denim has since become the epitome of leisure. In the 1950s, celebrities like Marlon Brando transformed the utilitarian clothing of industrial labor into a glamorous statement of youthful rebellion, and now, you can find jeans on chic fashion runways. For some, indigo blue might be the color of freedom, but for workers who have produced the dye, it has often been a color of oppression and tyranny. Blue Jeans considers the versatility of this iconic garment and investigates what makes denim a universal signifier, ready to fit any context, meaning, and body. Object Lessons is published in partnership with an essay series in The Atlantic.

This volume brings together a stunning collection of contemporary sculpture and installation art made for the world at large. The featured artists have reached new heights of creativity and ingenuity, resulting in pieces that are exemplary expressions of culture and place. These projects seek not only to represent the societies around them, but also to engage them through interactive features and designs that are made to be climbed, walked through, sat on and programmed. Public Art is an essential resource for all those interested in art created for the community. Highlights include LAVA's Digital Origami Emergency Shelter, the Eden Project's biomes, which form the largest plant enclosure in the world, Aether & Hemera's Voyage, a display of three hundred paper boats with interactive LED lights, and Tonkin Lui's symbol of hope for renewable energy, Future Flower, which uses small wind turbines to power its lights.

Annie Holt identifies the roots of contemporary Euro-American practices of costume design, in which costumes are an integrated part of the dramaturgy rather than a reflection of an individual performer's taste or status. She argues that in the period 1820-1920, as part of the larger project of modernism across the artistic and cultural field, the functions of "clothing" and "costume" diverged. Onstage apparel took on a more specific semiotic task, acting as a fresh channel for the flow of information between the performer, the literary text, and the spectator. Modernizing Costume Design traces how five kinds of artists - directors, performers, writers, couturiers, and painters - made key contributions to this new model of costume design. Holt shows that by 1920, costume design shifted in status from craft to art.

Throughout the twentieth century, everyone from Marxists to economic individualists assumed that social and political activity was driven by the rational pursuit of material gain. Today, the fundamental importance of the cultivation and preservation of identity is finally re-emerging. This book explores the rich fabric of speech, dress, diet and the built environment from which human identity is made. Synthesising methods and ideas from numerous disciplines - including history, political science, anthropology, law and sociology - it presents a picture of human life as more than just a collection of material interests. Its ultimate aim is to show that no human activity is trivial or meaningless, that everything counts and 'plumage' matters. An open access version of this book, funded by the London School of Economics and Political Science, is available under a CC-BY licence at www.manchesteropenhive.com and www.oapen.org. -- .

Costume Design: The Basics provides an overview of the fundamental principles of theatrical costume design, from pre-production through opening night. Beginning with a discussion of what is costume design, why do people wear clothes, and what is the role of the costume designer, this book makes accessible the art and practice of costume design. Peppered with interviews with working costume designers, it provides an understanding of what it means to be a costume designer and offers a strong foundation for additional study. Readers will learn: How to use clues from the script to decipher a character's wardrobe Methods used to sketch ideas using traditional or digital media How to discuss a concept with a team of directors, producers, and designers Strategies to use when collaborating with a professional costume shop How to maintain a healthy work/life balance Courses of action when working under a limited money and labor budget. Costume Design: The Basics is an ideal starting point for aspiring designers looking for ways to achieve the best costumes on stage and realize their vision into a visual story told through clothing.

From Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy, to sharp-suited gangsters in Tarantino movies, clothing is central to film. In Undressing Cinema, Stella Bruzzi explores how far from being mere accessories, clothes are key elements in the construction of cinematic identities, and she proposes new and dynamic links between cinema, fashion and costume history, gender, queer theory and psychoanalysis.
Bruzzi uses case studies drawn from contemporary popular cinema to reassess established ideas about costume and fashion in cinema, and to challenge conventional interpretations of how masculinity and femininity are constructed through clothing. Her wide-ranging study encompasses:
* haute couture in film and the rise of the movie fashion designer, from Givenchy to Gaultier
* the eroticism of period costume in films such as The Piano and The Age of Innocence
* clothing the modern femme fatale in Single White Female, Disclosure and The Last Seduction
* generic male chic in Goodfellas, Reservoir Dogs, and Leon
* pride, costume and masculinity in `Blaxploitation' films, Boyz `N The Hood and New Jack City
* drag and gender confusion in cinema, from the unerotic cross-dressing of Mrs Doubtfire to the eroticised ambiguity of Orlando.

eBook available with sample pages: HB:0415139562

Stunning new fashion designs in 285 color images. These are fresh, innovative creations from collections by recent graduates of sixteen of the most respected fashion design programs at colleges and universities across the United States. Garments from more than 100 talented designers now entering the fashion industry are featured, including looks for eveningwear, menswear, childrenswear, sportswear, and more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each designer, including inspiration, materials, flats, and full-color fashion illustrations. This easy to navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by designer and indexed graphically by school. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion.

Whiz Limited is a Japanese streetwear brand established in 2000 by Hiroaki Shitano. With a following in Japan as well as Hong Kong and mainland China, Shitano has become something of a cult figure, as one of the new generation of streetwear designers influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Consisting originally of handmade, printed tees, the label has since expanded to include a complete range of streetwear infused with an eccentric Japanese flair. Shitano was raised in the entertainment district of Shinjuku, and this is reflected in the clothing s distinctly downtown urban vibe and predominantly dark colour palette. Chronicling the history of the brand, alongside some of Whiz s most prolific projects to date, this book features beautiful, newly shot photographs of a long list of collaborations with streetwear icons, including Hiroshi Fujiwara/Fragment, Mastermind, Stussy, A Bathing Ape, Bristol, Bountyhunter, M&M, Kappa, New Era, Disney, Hello Kitty, G-Shock, Peanuts, Porter, The North Face, Marmot, First Down, and the estate of Keith Haring. This book also features an impressive archive of the brand s iconic sneaker designs, boasting collaborations with heavy hitters like mita sneakers, Adidas, New Balance, Asics, Puma, Reebok, Mizuno, Converse, and Ugg, making it a must-have for sneakerheads and lovers of streetwear style alike.

The wide range of sixties fabric designs reflected the transition from the comforting tranquility of the early years to the bolder, more "hip" end of the decade. Funky Fabrics of the 60s takes you on a nostalgic tour of pastel and splashy florals, patchwork calicos, denims and stripes, wild abstract geometrics, and neon paisleys. Whether you admired Jackie Kennedy's elegant style or danced barefoot in a peasant dress as a "flower child", this full color book with hundreds of designs will bring back memories of a unique time.

This book focuses on flame retardants (FR) for textile materials. It discusses basics of flame retardancy and flammability and covers various types of flame retardants and materials, including natural FRs, halogen, phosphorous, and nanomaterial-based FRs. This book also discusses methods of applications of FRs and discusses FRs and the environment. Covers a variety of interdisciplinary applications in the textile industry Emphasizes environmental aspects Reports on a large number of FR compounds studied globally Discusses in detail recent developments in halogen-free eco-friendly flame retardants Extensively describes basic aspects of flame retardancy and their measurements Aimed at the practitioner and textile engineering professional this work aims to ensure development of safe textile materials for various uses, including apparel, protective wear, floor coverings, upholstery, drapery, and others.

Contributions by Grace Elizabeth Hale, Katie Knowles, Ted Ownby, Jonathan Prude, William Sturkey, Susannah Walker, Becca Walton, and Sarah Jones WeickselFashion studies have long centered on the art and preservation of finely rendered garments of the upper class, and archival resources used in the study of southern history have gaps and silences. Yet, little study has been given to the approach of clothing as something made, worn, and intimately experienced by enslaved people, incarcerated people, and the poor and working class, and by subcultures perceived as transgressive. The essays in the volume, using clothing as a point of departure, encourage readers to imagine the South's centuries-long engagement with a global economy through garments, with cotton harvested by enslaved or poorly paid workers, milled in distant factories, designed with influence from cosmopolitan tastemakers, and sold back in the South, often by immigrant merchants. Contributors explore such topics as how free and enslaved women with few or no legal rights claimed to own clothing in the mid-1800s, how white women in the Confederacy claimed the making of clothing as a form of patriotism, how imprisoned men and women made and imagined their clothing, and clothing cooperatives in civil rights-era Mississippi. An introduction by editors Ted Ownby and Becca Walton asks how best to begin studying clothing and fashion in southern history, and an afterword by Jonathan Prude asks how best to conclude.

From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change.

This seminal text demystifies the terminology of working in the fashion industry today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials, new technologies, and processes. This book has been reorganized in a purely alphabetical order for easy reference. Lavishly illustrated with over 800 illustrations capturing the styles and details of fashion, this reference work is a must have for students, designers, fashion merchandisers, librarians, and fashion enthusiasts. The fifth edition also includes online availability to vocabulary and image flashcards via STUDIO for easy on-the-go access.

Sewing patterns have been the principle blueprint for making garments in the home for centuries. From their origins in the tailoring manuals of the 16th century to the widely produced pamphlets of the 18th and 19th centuries, through to the full size packet patterns of today, their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences. This accessible book explores this history, outlining innovations in patternmaking by the companies who produced patterns and how these reflected the fashions and demands of the market. Showcasing beautiful illustrations from original pattern pamphlets, packets and ads, as well as 9 complete patterns from which readers can reproduce vintage garments of different eras, the book provides a unique visual guide to homemade fashions as well as essential exploration of the industry that produced them.

Betty Halbreich is a true original. Now in her eighties, she has spent nearly forty years at the luxury store Bergdorf Goodman, working with socialites, stars and ordinary women. She has led many to appreciate their real selves through clothes, frank advice and her unique brand of wisdom; she is trusted by the most discriminating persons - including Hollywood's top stylists - to tell them what looks best. But her own transformation from cosseted girl to fearless truth-teller is the greatest makeover of all. Born into a successful Chicago family, aged twenty Betty married dashing Sonny Halbreich and came to Manhattan, where the couple threw themselves into a whirlwind of long hours, cocktails and Park Avenue parties, living the high life in 1950s New York. However, the marriage began to fray and after two decades came undone completely. Bereft, Betty attempted suicide. As she embarked on the frightening process of reclaiming herself, she was offered a lifeline: a job at Bergdorf Goodman. For Betty, with her innate sense of style and craftsmanship, it was a perfect fit. Hardworking, elegant, and gifted with sparkling wit and razor-sharp powers of observation, in her amazing life story as in her style guidance Betty Halbreich is never afraid to tell it straight.

Keiko Okamoto's Japanese Knitting Stitches presents 150 exquisite knitting and crochet stitches from one of Japan's most prolific and innovative designers. Her designs range from classic to ethnic to quirky in colours ranging from earthy to vivid. Keiko Okamoto is recognized around the world for her colourful and textural stitches, and this book features beautiful colour photos showing the full potential of these stitch patterns. An introduction by veteran Japanese knitting expert Gayle Roehm translator of Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible and 250 Japanese Knitting Stitches explains the ins and outs of using the Japanese-style knitting charts and executing the stitches in a way that is simple and easy for all knitters to understand. Full instructions and diagrams for crochet and knitting projects offer a chance to put these stitches to use. These projects include: A cardigan with charming crocheted strawberry garland A multi-coloured, fringed neck wrap A pair of funky, sculptural arm-warmers toasty and multi-textured A charming Fair Isle knitted basket bag A pair of fluffy, cuffed mittens An elegant A-line textured wool sweater suitable for any body type A chic Nordic-patterned short coat. This book will be a prized addition to every knitter's library, and a favourite reference for years to come!

Sleek. Chic. Notoriously guarded. Welcome to the secret world of Gabrielle Chanel.

The story of Chanel begins with an abandoned child, as lost as a girl in a dark fairy tale. Unveiling remarkable new details about Gabrielle Chanel's early years in a convent orphanage and her flight into unconventional adulthood, Justine Picardie explores what lies beneath the glossy surface of a mythic fashion icon.

Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. An authoritative account, based on personal observations and interviews with Chanel's last surviving friends, employees and relatives, it also unravels her coded language and symbols, and traces the influence of her formative years on her legendary style.

Feared and revered by the rest of the fashion industry, Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of eighty-seven, but her legacy lives on. Drawing on unprecedented research, Justine Picardie brings her fascinating, enigmatic subject out of hiding and uncovers the consequences of what Chanel covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and myth in a story that reveals the true heart of fashion.

In this newest edition to a series, Emerging Fashion Designers 5 continues to be a platform for the next generation of young designers, exhibiting original designs by more than 50 recent graduates from 13 premier fashion design programs in the United States. More than 250 images showcase the designers' fresh perspectives on lingerie, sportswear, menswear, children's wear, evening wear, and more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each young designer, including inspiration and materials. This easy to navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by school and indexed graphically by designer. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion.

Enter the fascinating world of conversion costuming! Make your own theatrical costumes for less than a day's rental price and make them your way without any conventional sewing using patterns. Included in this book are more than 110 ingenious costume designs with photos and diagrams. Great costumes for standard theatrical characters like: Princess, Prince, Clown, Devil, Witch, Medieval Lady, Elves, Peter Pan, Captain Hook, Pinocchio and many more. Also, costumes for the leading characters in popular shows: Camelot, Oklahoma, Guys and Dolls, King and I, Pirates of Penzance and more. These conversion ideas will save you time, money and deadline disasters and give you precisely the costume you want. Section headings: Materials, Theatrical Costumes, Christmas Costumes, Storybook Costumes, Quick and Easy Costumes, Appendix.

As our climate, ecological and social crises converge, urgent action is needed to maximize our chances of survival. A new commercial approach is possible but it requires a systemic shift, with companies learning to operate as part of a wider 'ecosystem', allowing fashion to restore what it has taken. Regenerative Fashion presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion. To keep our planet safe, we must cut production and end our dependency on fossil fuels. We must also create dignified livelihoods for the millions of people working in the industry. By using natural resources, paying factory workers and farmers a living wage and scaling up craft production, we can not only rebuild soils, ecosystems and biodiversity, but also support decarbonization, regenerate communities and ensure a just transition for all. Part guide and part manifesto, this book shares stories of our interconnectedness with the natural world and each other, divided into sections on Nature & Materials; People, Livelihoods & Crafts; and New Economy & Leadership. Fully illustrated throughout, it features interviews from best-practice designers and businesses around the world, as well as thought pieces from leading campaigners within the industry.

- What is an Apollo knot? - Who wore a Welch wig? - When were Zouave jackets the height of fashion? This new edition of The Dictionary of Fashion History further updates the landmark work of C. Willett Cunnington, Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard. Featuring over 60 new and revised entries on diverse topics such as the Onesie, Brothel Creepers and the Birkin Bag, this edition is even more comprehensive and brings this costume historian's bible fully up to date. With many more images to accompany the text and illustrate key fashions - including cartoons, prints and lavish color photographs of surviving garments - this version of the dictionary brings dazzling and unusual garments to life for researchers, students, costume designers and everyone interested in the subject. Clear, concise, and meticulous in detail, this essential reference work answers countless questions relating to the history of dress and adornment and will continue to be the definitive guide for many years to come.

In The Design Process, Fourth Edition author Karl Aspelund takes readers on a guided tour through the seven stages of design: from the initial Inspiration to Identification, Conceptualization, Exploration/Refinement, Definition/Modeling, Communication, and all the way through Production. This book focuses on developing a solid foundation in design critical thinking, no matter the discipline. The author highlights the all important factors of sustainability, teamwork, and how to best communicate with client or manufacturer. Each chapter is followed by an exercise that allows you to work on one full cross-disciplinary project continuously from brainstorm to a physical product. The appendices provide key references to further readings, artist profiles, design elements and principles, trend analysis, and history of modern design (from the 1800s through to the 21st century). This is the perfect book to make your design dreams into design reality. New to This Edition: -Updated examples, exercises, bibliography, and timelines -Revised coverage of sustainability reflects the newest findings in the field -New and revised Perspectives offer real life examples from artists and designers across fashion, interior design, public arts projects, and industrial and consumer products Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, and lecture notes -Test Bank includes sample test questions for each chapter -PowerPoint (R) presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion STUDIO Includes: -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips

Tom Ford has become one of fashion's great icons. In the past decade, he transformed Gucci from a moribund accessories label into one of the sexiest fashion brands in the world. His designs have increased sales at Gucci tenfold and have helped build the Gucci brand into the luxury goods conglomerate that it is today. Ford brought a hard-edged style synonymous with 21st century glamour to his clothes, and Hollywood sat up and took note.
This book is a complete catalogue of Ford's design work for both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 1994 to 2004. It chronicles not only Ford's clothing and accessories designs for both houses, but also explores Ford's grand vision for the complete design of a brand, including architecture, store design, and advertising.
Tom Ford features more than 200 photographs by Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Terry Richardson, Craig McDean, Todd Eberle, and numerous other photographers including many previously unpublished images.
Published to coincide with his departure from Gucci, this book has been created with Ford's full cooperation and every page reflects his exceptional taste. It is Ford's testament to a career of singular moments reinventing the boundaries of style and sensuality in clothing.