Take a look at the wild, bold, colorful, and naughty designs that have swelled men's chests throughout necktie history. Follow the development of this manly fashion, from fabrics to tie care, and enjoy an astounding kaleidoscope of colors and motifs. Hundreds of neck and bow ties from the late twentieth century are displayed in 340 color pictures. The designs range from the incredible "Bold Look" ties of the late 1940s and early 1950s to the thinly conservative ties of the late 1950s. The early 1960s produced mundane ties, but Pop, Op, and Psychedelic Art ushered in another era in the late 1960s and early 1970s called the "Peacock Look," characterized by extremely wide ties and extravagantly wild prints. Finally, take a tour of the stylistic progression ties made through the 1980s and 1990s.

Numerous designers have pioneered cutting-edge garments and collections throughout the evolution of fashion. But all too often a lack of obvious fit or purpose has been mistaken for a lack of design sophistication. In an informed defence of innovative fashion, Why You Can Go Out Dressed Like That champions the improbable, the provocative, the uncomfortable and the seemingly ridiculous. Inspired by diverse sources, theories and concepts, as well as futuristic textiles and techniques, the book explores the groundbreaking work of designers who strive to extend the boundaries of their creativity. There are no fixed elements to the 100 designs featured in this book, which range from the cerebral conceptions of Comme des Garcons, to the augmented anatomies of Thierry Mugler and the exaggerated physicality of Thom Browne's broad-shouldered men. The garments do not have to fulfil a function, keep you warm, or increase sexual attraction, nor do they have to beguile or disarm. They do need to have impact at the time of creation and to prove influential in the longer term. Many original designs elicit the response: `You can't go out dressed like that!'. Marnie Fogg proves decisively that modern fashion is not as outrageous and unwearable as it may seem.

Fibres to Smart Textiles: Advances in Manufacturing, Technologies, and Applications offers comprehensive coverage of the fundamentals and advances in the textile and clothing manufacturing sectors. It describes the basics of fibres, yarns, and fabrics and their end use in the latest developments and applications in the field and addresses environmental impacts from textile processes and how to minimize them. This book serves as a single comprehensive source discussing textile fibres, yarn formation, filament formation techniques, woven fabric formation, knitting technologies, nonwoven manufacturing technologies, braiding technologies, and dyeing, printing, and finishing processes. Testing of textile materials, environmental impacts of textile processes and use of CAD and CAM in designing textile products are also included. The book also discusses applications including textile composites and biocomposites, technical textiles, smart textiles, and nanotextiles. With chapters authored by textile experts, this practical book offers guidance to professionals in textile and clothing manufacturing and shows how to avoid potential pitfalls in product development.

Providing detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal comfort, which allows for systematic control of the measuring methods and the services and final products that are distributed on the global market. This book is aimed at industry professionals, researchers, and advanced students working in textile and clothing engineering, comfort testing, and ergonomics.

- What is an Apollo knot? - Who wore a Welch wig? - When were Zouave jackets the height of fashion? This new edition of The Dictionary of Fashion History further updates the landmark work of C. Willett Cunnington, Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard. Featuring over 60 new and revised entries on diverse topics such as the Onesie, Brothel Creepers and the Birkin Bag, this edition is even more comprehensive and brings this costume historian's bible fully up to date. With many more images to accompany the text and illustrate key fashions - including cartoons, prints and lavish color photographs of surviving garments - this version of the dictionary brings dazzling and unusual garments to life for researchers, students, costume designers and everyone interested in the subject. Clear, concise, and meticulous in detail, this essential reference work answers countless questions relating to the history of dress and adornment and will continue to be the definitive guide for many years to come.

The fourth edition of Schiffer Fashion Press's (SFP) runway compendium tells the story of the Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week collections from "Atelier to Runway." Sketches, inspirations, mementos, swatches, and mood boards from the studios of five top designers offer insights into the creative process behind the collections. The story further unfolds with compelling backstage coverage gathered before 10 runway shows. Here you'll see the pre-runway excitement of hair stylists, makeup artists, and designers creating the final look. Finally, over 1,500 runway and presentation images from the collections of 69 designers complete this New York Fashion Week experience. Complementing this dramatic fashion narrative, this volume also presents street fashion photography and an expanded trend guide with more details and analysis, plus hair and makeup coverage. Come behind the scenes with us to experience everything that makes this week the most exciting time in American fashion.

This beautiful and inspirational book written by a doyenne of British textile design explores the art of painting and making patterns on cloth. Fabrics bring colour and vibrance to our lives, adding inventiveness and charm to both our clothes and our domestic interiors. In this book, lifelong textile designer Sarah Campbell takes you through her world of pattern and colour to uncover the joys of design from dots, stripes and checks to more surprising decorative solutions. Beautifully illustrated with Sarah's colourful and internationally acclaimed work, her fabric designs show the comforting rhythm and universal language of pattern. - Learn how to create your own unique designs using a range of tools and techniques including brushes and potato-cuts, stencils and simple 'kitchen cupboard' resists. - Explore the delights of painting on different fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk and calico/muslin. - Develop your understanding of scale, colour, tonality and the organisation of pattern ideas, alongside suggestions on how to use your finished fabrics.

More than a footnote to the Second World War, or a foreword to the youth-obsessed exhilaration of the Sixties, the Fifties was a thrilling decade devoted to newness and freshness. The British people, rebuilding their lives and wardrobes, demanded modern materials, vibrant patterns and exciting prints inspired by scientific discoveries and modern art. Despite the influence of glamorous Paris couture led by Dior, home-grown fashion labels including Horrockses and the young Queen Elizabeth's couturier Norman Hartnell had an equally great, if not greater impact on British style. This book, written by an assistant curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum, is a fascinating look back to the days when post-war Britain developed a fresh sense of style.

Optimization and decision making are integral parts of any manufacturing process and management system. The objective of this book is to demonstrate the confluence of theory and applications of various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization techniques with reference to textile manufacturing and management. Divided into twelve chapters, it discusses various multi-criteria decision-making methods such as AHP, TOPSIS, ELECTRE, and optimization techniques like linear programming, fuzzy linear programming, quadratic programming, in textile domain. Multi-objective optimization problems have been dealt with two approaches, namely desirability function and evolutionary algorithm. Key Features Exclusive title covering textiles and soft computing fields including optimization and decision making Discusses concepts of traditional and non-traditional optimization methods with textile examples Explores pertinent single-objective and multi-objective optimizations Provides MATLAB coding in the Appendix to solve various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization problems Includes examples and case studies related to textile engineering and management

Fantastic fashion that won't cost you the earth. What is a 'fashion footprint'? What's the problem with fast fashion? And is there any alternative to it? This inspirational guide is your sustainable sourcebook full of activities and practical tips on how you can cut ties with unethical fashion practices and form new fashion habits that work for you - all without compromising your signature style! Author Laura Strutt will help readers identify the approach that will work best for them - are you a seasonal clothes swapper or would you rather get crafty? Covering topics such as motivational mindset changes, trusted brands to try, buying and selling secondhand clothes, inspiration for upcycles, mending techniques and questions to ask companies before you shop, this is the ultimate book for the closet-curious who want to create a wardrobe that doesn't cost the Earth.

Whiz Limited is a Japanese streetwear brand established in 2000 by Hiroaki Shitano. With a following in Japan as well as Hong Kong and mainland China, Shitano has become something of a cult figure, as one of the new generation of streetwear designers influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Consisting originally of handmade, printed tees, the label has since expanded to include a complete range of streetwear infused with an eccentric Japanese flair. Shitano was raised in the entertainment district of Shinjuku, and this is reflected in the clothing s distinctly downtown urban vibe and predominantly dark colour palette. Chronicling the history of the brand, alongside some of Whiz s most prolific projects to date, this book features beautiful, newly shot photographs of a long list of collaborations with streetwear icons, including Hiroshi Fujiwara/Fragment, Mastermind, Stussy, A Bathing Ape, Bristol, Bountyhunter, M&M, Kappa, New Era, Disney, Hello Kitty, G-Shock, Peanuts, Porter, The North Face, Marmot, First Down, and the estate of Keith Haring. This book also features an impressive archive of the brand s iconic sneaker designs, boasting collaborations with heavy hitters like mita sneakers, Adidas, New Balance, Asics, Puma, Reebok, Mizuno, Converse, and Ugg, making it a must-have for sneakerheads and lovers of streetwear style alike.

With remarkable panache and discernment, Iris Apfel combines styles, colors, textures, and patterns without regard to period, provenance, or aesthetic conventions. She is a unique style icon. Over ninety sumptuous color plates, photographed by Eric Boman, show off a selection of Apfel's extraordinary outfits on wittily posed mannequins, some sporting her trademark outsized spectacles. The originality of her style is typically revealed in her mixing of Dior haute couture with flea-market finds, Dolce & Gabbana lizard trousers with nineteenth-century ecclesiastical vestments, pink Lanvin worn with ropes of Navajo turquoise. Apfel's eclectic pieces might come from a Parisian couture house, an American thrift shop, or a North African souk, or they may have been made to her own design in a tiny studio. Detailed captions describe every aspect of the outfits, including names and dates of designers, plus full information on fabrics and accessories. A selection of audacious accessories also comes under the spotlight: a giant necklace made of bear claws, a turn-of-the-century Indian horse ornament worn as a necklace, a parrot's-head brooch in colored glass and rhinestones. The book includes an introduction by Harold Koda, director of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and an essay by Apfel herself, describing her lifelong love affair with style and illustrated with vintage photographs from her personal collection.

Since 1818, Brooks Brothers, America s oldest clothing brand, has grown into a global sartorial institution that has influenced American style through its iconic fashions, which conjure intimate memories of pivotal life events from your first navy blazer as a child to stepping into a bespoke suit on your wedding day. On the eve of its two-hundredth anniversary, Brooks Brothers remains synonymous with timeless style, the finest quality, and innovative designs that resonate with both old and new generations. This richly illustrated book is replete with photographs of the signature heritage pieces, from the Original Polo button-down oxford, grey flannel suit, and Rep ties to the camel overcoat, and features an unparalleled roster of high-profile political and cultural icons who have worn and made these pieces their own: from Abraham Lincoln and John F. Kennedy to Madonna, Lady Gaga, Grace Kelly, Katharine Hepburn, Miles Davis, and Andy Warhol, as well as TV and film stars in Glee, Gossip Girl, Mad Men, and Baz Luhrmann s The Great Gatsby. The text comprises interviews and personal anecdotes from the retailer s loyal clientele fashion designers, writers, and celebrities each sharing treasured memories and connections to Brooks Brothers. This dazzling volume invites readers to delve into the world of Brooks Brothers, providing insight into the people, places, and historical moments that have shaped and provoked the innovative yet timeless American institution, and is a must for those interested in fashion and American style.

How has fashion mirrored the social and cultural changes that have taken place in modern China? To what extent has fashion contributed to those changes?
This book provides the first comprehensive account of modern Chinese fashion from 1978 to the present day. The post-Mao era witnessed the birth of the Chinese market economy, the reawakening of Chinese fashion, and the rejuvenation of Chinese society. The program of economic reform turned China into the world's leading manufacturing powerhouse, and the Chinese fashion industry now plays a key international role. During the same period, Western companies discovered China as a significant market for branded fashion and luxury goods.
This book, which takes a chronological approach, offers an analysis of the development of the Chinese fashion industry as well as an analysis of the relationship between dress, gender, identity and consumption in contemporary China. As such it will be welcomed by all students of fashion and textiles.

Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technology and Application in Fashion and Textile Supply Chain highlights the technology of Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) and its applications in fashion and textile manufacturing and supply chain management. It discusses the brief history, technology, and working of RFID including the types of RFID systems. It compares differences, advantages, and disadvantages of RFID and barcode technologies. It also covers application of RFID technology in textile and fashion manufacturing, supply chain, and retail, and RFID-based process control in textile and fashion manufacturing. It covers various applications of RFID starting from fibre manufacturing through yarn and fabric manufacturing; fabric chemical processing; garment manufacturing and quality control; and retail management. It offers case studies of RFID adoption by famous fashion brands detailing the competitive advantages and discusses various challenges faced and future directions of RFID technology.

Design Materials and Making for Social Change spans the two interconnected worlds of the material and the social, at different scales and in different contexts, and explores the value of the knowledge, skills and methods that emerge when design researchers work directly with materials and hold making central to their practice. Through the social entanglements of addressing material impacts, the contributors to this edited volume examine homelessness, diaspora, migration, the erosion of craft skills and communities, dignity in work and family life, the impacts of colonialism, climate crisis, education, mental health and the shifting complexities in collaborating with and across diverse disciplines and stakeholders. This book celebrates the role of materials and making in design research by demonstrating the diverse and complex interplay between disciplines and the cultures it enables, when in search of alternative futures. Design Materials and Making for Social Change will be of interest to scholars in materials design, textile design, product design, fashion design, maker culture, systemic design, social design, design for sustainability and circular design.

- A one-of-a-kind book that examines Persian celebrations from their earliest incarnations to their present state- Reaches out to Iranians worldwide, embracing and celebrating their cultural heritage- Glossy full-color photographs capture the spirit of these ancient traditions in the modern day'Sofreh' is Persian for 'spread' - referring to the colorful arrangements of flowers, condiments and objects of spiritual or cultural importance that are displayed at Persian ceremonies. As the title promises, this book is a visual feast. Flush with lavish historical illustrations and contemporary photography, it documents Persian marriage and New Year celebrations in rich detail. Sofreh pays homage to ancient traditions, discussing the symbiosis of symbolism and culture. Despite their ancestral roots, the featured ceremonies are infused with life and creativity. Modern fabrics are welcomed alongside refined antique textiles, creative floral designs, unconventional pieces of furniture, and unexpected objects. References to Persian poetry, literature, art and folklore stimulate the imagination, and the text is illuminated with exquisitely detailed extracts from old manuscripts, antique woven textiles and embroideries. Each volume centers around a series of original and at times highly elaborate sofreh creations. Together they comprise an extensive project, involving research into Persian ceremonies and sofreh history by an eminent scholar, and the design and creation of stunning compositions. Book One is about the Persian New Year (Nowruz), which is celebrated on the first day of Spring. Book Two explores Persian marriage and wedding customs, and the elaborate settings for marriage ceremonies (Aqd). These two lavishly illustrated volumes which make an enduring gift are devoted to showcasing sofreh compositions in all of their glory. Never before have the splendor and beauty of the sofreh been presented in such an intricate and novel fashion.

An elegant collection of legendary designer Coco Chanel’s maxims on style, women and life

French couturière Coco Chanel has achieved legendary status across the world and continues to captivate young generations of fashion fans who eagerly collect and share her quotes, creations and insights.

A close friend of some of the leading wits and writers of her days (from Jean Cocteau to poet Pierre Reverdy), Coco Chanel was fierce and uncompromising in her pronouncements on fashion (‘Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity’; ‘Elegance is refusal’; ‘Fashion changes, but style endures’), women (‘A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future’; ‘Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman’) and life (‘The best things in life are free. The second-best are very expensive’). Much like her successor, Karl Lagerfeld, she never shied away from controversy, declaring one day of her detractors: ‘I don’t care what you think about me. I don’t think about you at all’. Chic, witty and accessibly priced, The World According to Coco is the perfect gift for fans of fashion in general and Chanel in particular.

What motivates people to dress in a manner that marks them out as different to the conventional norm? Is it true that, with dress, 'anything goes' in our mix-and-match postmodern culture? Have easily recognizable, authentic subcultures imploded in a glut of ironic revivals and stylistic fragmentation? Does this supposed 'post-subcultural' generation actively celebrate ephemerality, transience and disposability, merely casting off and trying on one alternative identity after another in an ever-accelerating fashion frenzy? This exciting book is a considered sociological examination of such questions. By listening to the voices of the subcultural stylists themselves - their subjective perceptions of their style and the ideas that lie behind them - the author provides original insights into issues of subjectivity and identity. Situating an empirical case study within a wider consideration of postmodernism and cultural change, the author rejects cultural studies perspectives that attempt to 'read' subcultures as texts. Drawing on extensive interviews with people who dress in what might be deemed a stylistically unconventional manner, he seeks instead to establish whether contemporary subcultures display modern or postmodern sensibilities and forms. He argues persuasively that they do both - a stress on postmodern hyperindividualism, fluidity and fragmentation runs alongside a modernist emphasis on authenticity and underlying essence. He concludes that a Romantic libertarianism has permeated working-class culture and that the distinction between 'individualistic' middle-class countercultures and 'collectivist' working-class subcultures has been over-emphasized.

This book documents a collection of approximately 90 Paracas textiles. The collection consists of cloaks, ponchos, tunics, as well as some smaller fragments such as ribbons. Originally housed at the Ethnographic Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, the objects were returned to Peru during 2019 and 2020. Paracas textiles tell the story of the people living in Peru more than 2000 years ago and how they saw and viewed the world. In cultures without a written language imagery is very important. Textile pictures were created from the depths of the human senses, from thoughts and dreams. The makers of the Paracas textiles depict fantastic stories from their time and culture about creation, death and thoughts about life. Kerstin Paradis Gustafsson has studied, inventoried and analysed the Paracas textiles for decades, and cracked codes about how they were made. She also has pioneering theories about what they want to say and how the unbroken thread symbolises life. In this text, Kerstin documents and explains the secret behind these fantastic 2000-year-old textiles.

The latest edition of this popular, growing series showcases the exciting new designs created by more than 80 recent graduates from 18 premier fashion design programs in the United States. With over 300 striking color images, this fourth edition brings the fresh perspective of the next generation of young designers to the forefront via beautifully designed garments and skillfully rendered illustrations for eveningwear, menswear, lingerie, activewear including yoga and snowboarding apparel, and much more. The wide range of work in this anthology is augmented with a brief dossier on each young designer, including that designer's source of inspiration and materials used. This easy-to-navigate resource has garments organized alphabetically by designer and indexed graphically by school. It is an essential reference to the newest talent and trends in fashion that will be valued by all who are passionate about this ever-changing field.

Fashion Education explores how the classroom can transform the fashion industry towards body inclusion and social justice. The book is a collection of 16 essays by fashion educators from Australia, Canada, the US and the UK who recount their experiences, struggles and strategies of reimagining the exclusive foundation of fashion pedagogy and redesigning fashion curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans and queer worldviews, histories and bodies. This is the first book to explore the relationships between fashion pedagogy and social justice, and to map out new pedagogical frameworks and tools to redistribute power through fashion education. It shares the teaching practices of fashion educators implementing radical pedagogies and offers practical case studies that engage with a number of intersectional positions. Fashion Education engages with current pressing concerns for educators and is a valuable teaching resource for fashion educators - both theory and practice - working in art and design schools in Europe, the US and the UK. With chapters covering fashion theory, history, business, communication and design curricula to centre Indigenous, Black, brown, fat, disabled, trans, queer worldviews, histories and peoples it will appeal directly to the many disciplines within fashion. The discussions are also relevant to educators in other art, design and creative fields also looking to centre inclusion in their courses and the strategies presented will apply to them. Contributions from Tanveer Ahmed, Kevin Almond, Avalon Acaso, Ben Barry, Mal Burkinshaw, Johnathan Clancy, Robin J. Chantree, Deborah A. Christel, Brittany Dickinson, Greg Climer, Bianca Garcia, Denise Nicole Green, Alicia Johnson, Lucy Jones, Grace Jun, Carmen Keist, Riley Kucheran, Michael Mamp, Krys Osei, Lauren Downing Peters, Alexis Quinney, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Austin Reeves, Joshua Simon, Colleen Schindler-Lynch, Brandon Spencer and Sang Thai

This book offers an essential reference for anyone interested in contemporary European jewellery design. Through guided conversations with the major designers of today, Roberta Bernabei reveals the creative, conceptual and technical working practices that underpin the aesthetic of each practitioner's work. In addition, the dialogues shed new light on these jewellers' inspiration and their ideas about functionality and the human body. Each interview is supported by photographs and a detailed bibliography and appendix which locates the jewellers' work in galleries, museums as well as online. Major jewellery artists present include: Giampaolo Babetto, Gijs Bakker, Otto Kunzli, Ruudt Peters, Mario Pinton and Tone Vigeland, alongside members of the emergent generation: Ted Noten, Annamaria Zanella and Christoph Zellweger. This book, which opens the door to contemporary jewellery practice, will be welcomed by all students, lecturers and practitioners.

Born in the Brazilian countryside, and nearly six feet tall by the age of 14, Gisele Bundchen grew from humble roots into the most successful supermodel in the world. This book celebrates her 20-year milestone in the industry with a unique and spectacular collection of jaw-dropping glamour and intimate, personal insights. Gisele was just 18 when she made her breakthrough in the S/S 1998 ready-to-wear "Rain" show of Alexander McQueen, who chose "The Body" thanks to her ability to walk in towering heels on a slippery runway. The same year, Gisele secured her first British Vogue cover, and swiftly became the most in-demand cover girl of her generation. The following year, she was chosen for the cover of American Vogue, shot by Steven Meisel, and lauded as "the return of the sexy model" with her bronzed, athletic beauty defying late-'90s grunge. Since then, Gisele has appeared on more than 1,000 covers around the globe, in approximately 450 fashion shows, and in multinational campaigns for the biggest fashion and beauty brands. With more than 300 photographs, this book is curated and art directed by Giovanni Bianco. From Gisele's legendary nude portrait by Irving Penn, chosen as the book's cover, to iconic shots from such industry luminaries as Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh, David LaChapelle, Juergen Teller, Inez & Vinoodh, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, and Corinne Day, it is a unique artistic presentation of the most famous Brazilian export together with Pele and Senna and the highest-earning model in the world. The breathtaking image collection is accompanied by an introduction by Steven Meisel and tributes from Gisele's closest friends, family, and fashion leaders, who shed light on how and why she has become one of the greatest models of all time. First published as a limited edition-now available in a popular TASCHEN edition! Gisele is donating all her proceeds from the book to charity.