Articulating eight decades of American style through the emotive language of clothing-from celebrated designers that established the modern legacy of sportswear to emerging creatives shaping the future of fashion in the United States "The design of the exhibition and the catalog is straightforward and compartmentalized, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves and contain their own narratives."-Laird Borrelli-Persson, Vogue.com This new presentation of American fashion features a revised vocabulary that emphasizes its expressive qualities. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion. The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by designers, from the pioneers who established the nation's style to the up-and-coming creatives shaping its future. In America: A Lexicon of Fashion includes designs by Gilbert Adrian, Geoffrey Beene, Thom Browne, Bonnie Cashin, Willy Chavarria, Telfar Clemens, Dauphinette (Olivia Cheng), Oscar de la Renta (Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim), Denim Tears (Tremaine Emory), Perry Ellis, Tom Ford, Rudi Gernreich, Halston, Elizabeth Hawes, Carolina Herrera, Conner Ives, Charles James, Donna Karan, KidSuper (Colm Dillane), Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, LRS (Raul Solis), Vera Maxwell, Claire McCardell, Norman Norell, Heron Preston, Pyer Moss (Kerby Jean-Raymond), Christopher John Rogers, Collina Strada (Hillary Taymour), Diane von Furstenberg, Vera Wang, and many more. Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press Exhibition Schedule: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (September 18, 2021-September 5, 2022)

Exploring 35 years of creative output, this richly illustrated book offers an unprecedented look into Giorgio Armani's unique aesthetic, corporate and cultural strategies. More than any other designer, Armani best represents the global success of the 'Made in Italy' label. His impact is palpable not simply in women's fashion and red carpet glamour, but is also inseparable from the evolution of the menswear industry. Written in a lively and accessible style, the book includes thoughtful and provocative chapters exploring: the evolution of the man's suit; boutique culture in a global reality; the influence of Orientalism; the designer's ambivalent relationship with the fashion press; the business of vertical branding; the use of the evening dress to construct the house's history; power dressing for the modern woman; the relationship between textiles, film and the contours of masculinity; the continued dialogue with early twentieth-century aesthetics; as well as the spaces and bodies of the theatre of fashion. The first holistic and critical investigation of one of the most influential fashion houses in the world, Giorgio Armani: Empire of the Senses is a must read for anyone interested in the history and theories of fashion.

The ultimate Japanese knitting and crochet stitch bible--now available for English-speaking crafters! 1000 Japanese Knitting & Crochet Stitches is a treasure trove of needlecraft patterns and motifs for experienced knitters and crocheters seeking to create and better understand the infinite variety of their craft. This Japanese reference work is beloved by knitters the world over, and the English version will allow even more crafters to enjoy these techniques. This dictionary includes 700 original knitting stitch patterns and 300 original crochet patterns that have inspired many modern Japanese knitwear designs. You'll find classic lacy, cable, Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, ethnic patterns; geometric, botanical and animal motifs; and so much more. This one-stop reference has detailed stitch diagrams showing how to execute over 60 different knitting stitches and over 40 different crochet stitches. Each pattern is charted with a delineation of the pattern repeat. Like Tuttle's other bestselling Japanese knitting dictionaries--including Hitomi Shida's Japanese Knitting Stitch Bible&#8212this one includes an introduction by Japanese knitting guru Gayle Roehm, which helps those who are new to Japanese knitting navigate the differences between the Japanese and Western styles of knitting and crochet.

This new detailed guide to learning the skills and techniques of drawing modern fashion and figure is also a rich reference source for a broad range of modern garments and accessories. Extensively illustrated, this introduction teaches by example, the power of drawing as a means of communication and expression and strives to show students how to perceive things in order to be able to draw them correctly. The first section is dedicated to drawing the human figure, while the second portion deals with how to draw a wide range of modern garments and accessories and the types of techniques used to render them convincingly and elegantly in different fabric designs and textures. This volume offers a complete presentation of proportions of the croquis, draping the figure, accessories, flats, and features an encyclopedia of details, how to draw textiles and real clothes, the art of illustration, and computers and fashion drawing. For designers, fashion professionals, teachers and students of fashion.

Fans--they are mysterious and magical, and have been elevated to an art form by the great artists and decorators. They can be viewed as a tangible extension of femininity, style, and elegance. This book tells the fascinating tale of the fan as both a charming fashion accessory and a sophisticated mirror reflecting the changes in fashion and culture over time. Covering medieval times to the twentieth century, individual chapters trace the history of fans and their relationship to the major fashion trends of each era. Over 255 images, including dramatic original photos as well as historical illustrations, showcase fans made of paper, silk, lace, wood, celluloid, feathers, and more. Different shapes and styles of fans are featured, including fixed, pleated, and brise fans, souvenir fans, even several restored fans shown in "before and after" photos. An outstanding resource for fashion historians, students, designers, collectors, and aficionados, this unique study of the fan and its relationship to fashion will be of great interest to anyone who appreciates beautiful clothing and beautiful accessories.

A timely celebration of British design legend Sir Paul Smith and his one-of-a-kind creativity

This innovative book captures the unique spirit of British fashion icon Sir Paul Smith through 50 objects chosen by Sir Paul himself for the inspiration they have provided him over the years – from a wax plate of spaghetti and a Dieter Rams radio to a Mario Bellini Cab chair and a bicycle seat.

Each object has impacted his worldview, his creative process, and his adherence to a design approach that’s always imbued with distinctly British wit and eccentricity. The book covers subjects as varied as breaking down the formality of wearing a suit, the importance of wit, and the benefits of remaining independent in an increasingly monopolized world, and includes personal contributions – handwritten notes, a sketch, or photograph – from such fashion and design heavyweights as Manolo Blahnik, Inès de la Fressange, Martin Parr, and John Pawson.

Updated with a fresh new fabric cover featuring the brand’s signature stripe and a brand-new preface written by Sir Paul especially for this edition, Paul Smith provides the ultimate insight into one of the fashion world’s most-loved creators.

Over the years, various garments have become increasingly popular collectible items as they grant insight into the cultures in which they were made. Collectors who love the sand, sun, and surf will delight in this extraordinary guide to handsome Hawaiian clothing. Filled with over 460 beautiful photos, this book gives a historical account of Hawai`i's fashion industry and its effect on the Western world. Unique island designs, exotic fabrics, and traditional garments--including the holoku and mu`umu`u--are all included within this spectacular display of Hawaiian paradise. Generations of tourists to Hawai`i will enjoy the explanations of clothing designs unique to the islands, and designers will find this an invaluable and inspiring reference tool.

A sumptuous monograph tracing the life and legacy of fashion luminary Oscar de la Renta. In October 2014 one of the fashion world's champions, Oscar de la Renta, passed away, a great loss brightened by the innumerable successes of his half-century reign. The acclaimed fashion designer dressed first ladies from Kennedy to Obama, and celebrities from Beyonce to Sarah Jessica Parker. Renowned for his unique charm, impeccable taste, and original lifestyle, he married the highest standards of French couture with the ultimate motivation that women must look and feel beautiful. In this intimate volume, longtime editor and friend Andre Leon Talley recounts de la Renta's journey through nearly 70 iconic dresses, mainly made for private clients, accompanied by fascinating stories of the exquisite craftsmanship and the legendary friends that brought each gown to life. Born in the Dominican Republic in 1932, de la Renta left for Madrid at nineteen to study art, where he rose to prominence as a sketch artist for newspapers and fashion houses. From his apprenticeship under Cristobal Balenciaga to his eponymous collections, the designer's simple lines elevated with a flamenco dancer's flourish reflect his deep connection to his roots and his commitment to transcendence through beautiful garments.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

A beautifully illustrated journey through the history of travel-and traveling in style-from one of the world's preeminent fashion brands The mid-19th and early 20th centuries heralded new means of transport and equipment and, with them, new and original ways of exploring the world. Transatlantic liners, automobiles, long-haul airplanes, zeppelins, and express trains unfurled new horizons and changed travel itself into an adventure. Distant lands were no longer solely accessible to aristocrats, explorers, and adventurers. Instead, the world opened up to new groups of people eager to circumvent the globe. And for many of these new globetrotters, traveling was synonymous with Louis Vuitton, the French label whose iconic and functional luggage trunks could be found on nearly every boat, plane, car, and train around the world. In this beautiful book, author Francisca Matteoli recounts 50 tales of thrilling travel undertaken in every possible mode of transit, from the hot air balloon to the space shuttle, each lavishly illustrated with more than 300 historical photographs and ephemera from Louis Vuitton's official archives. Louis Vuitton: Extraordinary Voyages is a journey all its own-an evocative and transporting account of the most surprising and transformative trips taken since the 19th century.

Mid-1930s clothing for men, women, and children are presented in 300 color photographs from the Sears catalogs. See the popular styles of dresses, suits, coats, and sleepwear; as well as hats, shoes, and undergarments. Printed and solid fabrics are shown with customary accessories and in the latest styles available. Today's fashion designers will find the pages inspiring, and vintage clothing collectors will enjoy authentic designs.

With remarkable panache and discernment, Iris Apfel combines styles, colors, textures, and patterns without regard to period, provenance, or aesthetic conventions. She is a unique style icon. Over ninety sumptuous color plates, photographed by Eric Boman, show off a selection of Apfel's extraordinary outfits on wittily posed mannequins, some sporting her trademark outsized spectacles. The originality of her style is typically revealed in her mixing of Dior haute couture with flea-market finds, Dolce & Gabbana lizard trousers with nineteenth-century ecclesiastical vestments, pink Lanvin worn with ropes of Navajo turquoise. Apfel's eclectic pieces might come from a Parisian couture house, an American thrift shop, or a North African souk, or they may have been made to her own design in a tiny studio. Detailed captions describe every aspect of the outfits, including names and dates of designers, plus full information on fabrics and accessories. A selection of audacious accessories also comes under the spotlight: a giant necklace made of bear claws, a turn-of-the-century Indian horse ornament worn as a necklace, a parrot's-head brooch in colored glass and rhinestones. The book includes an introduction by Harold Koda, director of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and an essay by Apfel herself, describing her lifelong love affair with style and illustrated with vintage photographs from her personal collection.

A striking, sumptuous portfolio of catwalk and behind-the-scene images of John Galliano's highly creative collections for his eponymous label John Galliano's (b. 1960) ascent in the world of fashion design was swift and filled with acclaim for his bold, quick-witted sensibility and his theatrical flair. He became head designer for Givenchy in 1995, and then for Christian Dior in 1996, and directed his own fashion label between 1996 and 2011. He was named Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards four times. Currently creative director of the Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela, Galliano has fascinated the fashion world with his often outrageous and whimsical creations, including some of the most memorable collections of the 20th century: from the iconic Suzie Sphinx collection to luxurious and edgy reinventions of Chinese, Peruvian, Yemeni, or Mongolian costumes. Unfolding chronologically with short texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox introducing each collection, John Galliano: Unseen captures the designer's mesmerizing creations for his eponymous label (including rich and idiosyncratic details) and the intense backstage work of Galliano's trusted collaborators. Robert Fairer's long stint as backstage photographer for Vogue gives him a unique perspective, and his exquisite photographs of Galliano's collections, many of which are published here for the first time, offer insights into the extravagance and playfulness of one of the world's most flamboyant, innovative, and controversial fashion designers at the zenith of his career.

Those swinging 50s are fondly remembered in this bright and catchy book of everyday fashions for men, women, boys and girls. The day and evening dresses, suits, sports clothing, sweaters, ties, socks, and sleepwear so typical of the 50s are pictured. Over 600 color photographs and sales catalog advertisements bring the clothes right into your living room. The popular Western styles for boys are a particularly strong group here. A glossary defines terms as they were used in the 50s, and the index will help locate your favorite article. The price guide reflects the current market for 50s fashions that are immensely popular today.

Polyester: The Indestructible Fashion is a picture book which explores the art of prints in collectible and wearable polyester clothing from the 1970s. Over 330 creative photographs of men's and women's clothing were taken in high-energy, urban settings to present this dynamic clothing that projects energy of its own. Today, in the late 1990s, the younger generation has embraced polyester once again! Not only are today's fashion designers clamoring to redesign the styles from the past, but the market is growing, too, for the exciting, one-of-a-kind, vintage pieces. This is truly a style of fashion that will not fade. The author has produced fashion shows in Philadelphia from his extensive collection of polyester clothing. He is a physical education teacher, artist, and part-time student at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts.

Stays were the most important article of women's clothing in eighteenth-century life. Worn from infancy, they were designed to reshape the female body into an accepted aesthetic ideal. Starting with their production and trade, Sorge-English uses surviving examples to look at the intricacies of the staymaker's craft, the role of gender in the design and manufacture of stays and their changing shape over time. The study shows how long-term use caused serious health problems throughout women's lives and that as they became more involved in the production process women influenced their design to become closer to the natural female form. This book takes a unique approach to the cultural and social history of clothing by combining material analysis with more traditional research methods that includes the discovery of an eighteenth-century staymaker's diary.

This exciting new Japanese stitch dictionary is from popular designer Yoko Hatta--the founder and driving force behind the Kazekobo Studio. Though this is her first book in English, her work already has an extensive following in Western countries--more than 1,000 of her designs can be seen on Ravelry.com. Hatta is one of several Japanese knitters whose patterns and designs have sparked an explosion of interest in Japanese knitting techniques and aesthetics around the world. Her work in knitwear design spans more than thirty years, and knitters love her modern-yet-timeless, fun-yet-classy styles. This book presents her 200 favorite Kazekobo stitch patterns--a delightful selection of multipurpose knit-and-purl, lace, cable, Aran and rib & twist stitches in solids and motifs. Sample projects give knitters a chance to practice Hatta's techniques. These include: Mini mufflers using knit-and-purl stitches A cozy scallop-edged scarf using lace stitches A beautifully textured pair of mittens using cable and Aran stitches A stylish and sturdy pair of two-tone socks using rib and twist stitches Experienced knitters will find a wealth of unique patterns just waiting to be brought to life. A guide to the basic symbols shows how to knit the stitches, step-by-step. Originally published in Japanese by Nihon Vogue, whose books have brought the designs of artists such as Hitomi Shida, Keiko Okamoto and others to knitters around the world, this book will be a much-anticipated addition to every knitter's library.

Described by an admirer as 'the High Druidess of fashion, the Supreme Pontiff, Perpetual Curate and Archpresbyter of elegance, the Vicaress of Style', Diana Vreeland is the cloth from which 21st-century fashion editors are cut. Diana joined Harper's Bazaar in 1936, where her pizzazz and singular point of view quickly made her a major creative force in fashion. During her time at Harper's Bazaar and later as the editor-in-chief of Vogue, the self-styled 'Empress of fashion' launched Twiggy's career, advised Jackie Kennedy, and enjoyed the full swing of sixties' London. In Diana's Vogue, women were encouraged to resist fashion orders from on high, and to use their own imaginations in re-creating themselves - much as Vreeland spent her own life doing. In this book, Amanda Mackenzie Stuart portrays a visionary: a fearless innovator who inspired designers, models, photographers and artists. Diana Vreeland reinvented the way we think about style and where we go to find it. As an editor, curator and wit, she made a lasting mark and remains an icon for generations of fashion lovers.

Learn how to develop, launch and build a successful fashion brand with this definitive textbook which explores the realities of the contemporary fashion industry. Fashion Brand Management is a complete guide to operating a fashion business in a multi-trillion revenue industry. Written by a leading innovator in the space, it describes how to gain competitive advantage, meaningfully embrace sustainability and purpose and successfully market to and engage consumers. Balancing theory with practical applications throughout, it also explores the key business models and financial management processes used in the industry and how fashion brands can build entrepreneurial advantage. Exploring the key challenges and opportunities for today's fashion businesses both large and small, Fashion Brand Management examines supply chain disruption, social selling and technological innovations including the metaverse, digital collections and blockchain. Featuring case studies from a range of innovative global brands including Ecoalf, MWHQ, Pala Eyewear and Unhidden, in-text features include learning objectives, key terms and activities. With supporting online resources consisting of lecture slides, self-test questions, group activities and worksheets, this is an essential resource for fashion students.

The study of fashion has exploded in recent decades, yet what this all means or quite where it might take us, is not clear. This new book helps to bring fashion into focus, with a comprehensive guide to the key theories, perspectives and developments in the field. Tim Edwards includes coverage of all the major theories of fashion, including recent scholarship, alongside subcultural analysis and an in-depth look at production. Individual topics include: * men's fashion, masculinity and the suit * women's fashion and the role of sexuality * children, the body and fashion * the role of celebrity and designer label culture * globalisation and the production of fashion. Fashion in Focus is the ideal companion for students in the arts and social sciences, especially those studying issues such as fashion, gender, sexuality and consumer culture.

There has been a great deal of recent interest in masculine clothing, examining both its production and consumption, and the ways in which it was used to create individual identities and to build businesses, from 1850 onwards. Drawing upon a wide range of sources this book studies the interaction between producers and consumers at a key period in the development of the ready-made clothing industry. It also shows that many innovations in advertising clothing, usually considered to have been developed in America, had earlier British precedents. To counter the lack of documentary evidence that has hitherto hampered research into the dress practices of non-elite groups, this book utilises thousands of unpublished visual documents. These include hundreds of manufacturers' designs, which underline an unexpected degree of investment by manufacturers in boys' clothing, and which was matched by heavy investment in advertising, with thousands of images of boys' clothing for shop catalogues in the Stationers' Hall copyright archive. Another key source is the archives of Dr Barnardo's Homes. This extraordinary collection contains over 15,000 documented photographs of boys entering between 1875 and 1900, allowing us to look beyond official polarization of 'raggedness' and 'respectability' used by charities and social reformers of all stripes and to establish the clothing that was actually worn by a large sample of boys. A close analysis of 1,800 images reveals that even when families were impoverished, they strove to present their boys in ways that reflected their position in the family group and in society. By drawing on these visual sources, and linking the design and retailing of boys' clothing with social, cultural and economic issues, this book shows that an understanding of the production and consumption of the boys clothing is central to debates on the growth of the consumer society, the development of mass-market fashion, and concepts of childhood and masculinity.

*A Financial Times Book of the Year* 'The first time I opened What Artists Wear, I gasped with pleasure. Imagine it as a kind of punk cousin to John Berger's Ways of Seeing, liberally illustrated with the most astonishing images of artists, decked out in finery or rags ... It transported me to somewhere glamorous, exciting, even revolutionary' Olivia Laing, Guardian Most of us live our lives in our clothes without realizing their power. But in the hands of artists, garments reveal themselves. They are pure tools of expression, storytelling, resistance and creativity: canvases on which to show who we really are. In What Artists Wear, style luminary Charlie Porter takes us on an invigorating, eye-opening journey through the iconic outfits worn by artists, in the studio, on stage, at work, at home and at play. From Yves Klein's spotless tailoring to the kaleidoscopic costumes of Yayoi Kusama and Cindy Sherman; from Andy Warhol's signature denim to Charlotte Prodger's casualwear, Porter's roving eye picks out the magical, revealing details in the clothes he encounters, weaving together a new way of understanding artists, and of dressing ourselves. Part love letter, part guide to chic, and featuring generous photographic spreads, What Artists Wear is both a manual and a manifesto, a radical, gleeful, inspiration to see the world anew-and find greater pleasure and possibility in the clothes we all wear.

"Cool" colors were hot for fabrics in the late 1960s. The youth of the day wore hot pinks and purples, chartreuse, orange, and yellow. Sometimes called neon colors, these cool hot colors were often combined into wild and psychedelic floral and geometric designs. Hundreds of splashy colors and designs from actual 1960s European and American textile manufacturers' sample books are photographed and displayed with full descriptions and fabric content information. This book takes the '60s enthusiast on a magical ride to an era of outrageous artistic expression.

This practical book explains how to achieve great designs and creative cuts by seeing ideas come to life three dimensionally. By manipulating and pinning fabric on the dress form or house model, fashion designers can visualise their ideas and become more confident with their own creative visions. This new book includes advice on how to measure the body, as well as prepare the mannequin and fabric; it explains the draping process in detail with step-by-step instructions and practical tips throughout. It gives advice on working at half scale and provides calico preparation diagrams. Finally, there are chapters which introduce new design elements and/or garment type, and covers dresses, skirts, shirts and blouses. Written by a leading designer, Draping for Fashion Design is an essential guide to this skill (also known as 'moulage'), and explains how the fashion designer can understand their designs more fully, as well as the fabric and the garment's fit, in order to achieve impressive and sometimes unexpected results.