'A photographic encyclopaedia of one of the 20th century's greatest creators' The Business of Fashion Founded by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge in 1961, shortly after the young couturier left his post at the helm of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent would soon become one of the most successful and influential haute couture houses in Paris. Introducing Le Smoking, the first tuxedo suit for women, in 1966, Saint Laurent also presented iconic art-inspired creations, from Mondrian dresses to precious Van Gogh embroidery and the famous Ballets Russes collection. This definitive publication opens with a concise history of the house, followed by a brief biographical profile of Yves Saint Laurent, before exploring the collections themselves, organized chronologically. Each collection is introduced by a short text unveiling its influences and highlights, and illustrated with a gallery of carefully curated catwalk images. These showcase hundreds of spectacular clothes, details, accessories, beauty looks and set designs - and, of course, the top fashion models who wore them on the runway. A rich reference section concludes the book.

Create the Cosplay Dress of Your Dreams Design and sew a ballgown fit for cosplay royalty! A crucial part of any cosplayer's wardrobe, the right ballgown can transform you into an elegant princess or a dramatic sorcerer. But it takes more than just magic to create jaw-dropping gowns and ball-worthy dresses. Follow along with world champion cosplayers Cowbutt Crunchies as they walk sewists of all skill levels through building a ballgown with all the flourishes. This book contains everything you need to know about silhouette, planning, patterning, construction, corsets, hoop skirts, and trims. Craft your own magical fairytale masterpiece from start to finish! - Curtsy with confidence! Sew elaborate cosplay ballgowns from scratch - Take your builds to the next level with tips from award-winning cosplayers Regan and Kelley - This complete guide helps new and experienced sewists build stunning showpiece gowns

Out of the Box: The Rise of Sneaker Culture showcases breakthrough sneaker's from the mid-nineteenth century for sports performance to present day cultural icon. Drawn from collections including Adidas, Nike, Reebok, PUMA, and Converse archives, as well as private collectors such as those of hip-hop legend Run DMC, sneaker guru Bobbito Garcia, and Dee Wells of Obsessive Sneaker Disorder. This selection is richly contextualized with interviews and essays by design innovators, sneaker collectors, and cultural historians, creating a backdrop of the technical innovation, fashion trends, social history, and marketing campaigns that shaped the form over the past two centuries. Out of the Box includes iconic sneakers ranging from an 1860 spiked running shoe, the replica track shoes worn by Olympian Jesse Owens in Converse in 1936, the Air Jordan series, and the original Air Force 1 and early Adidas Superstars to contemporary examples designed by such prominent figures as Damien Hirst, Christian Louboutin, and Kanye West, making this the definitive illustrated history of sneaker culture

An unforgettable journey through art history with Yves Saint Laurent as a guide. January 1962 saw the launch of the very first collection by Yves Saint Laurent. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the founding of his couture house, the Musee Yves Saint Laurent Paris is organizing a unique retrospective of the couturier's work that juxtaposes his creations with art works from the collections of four major Paris institutions: the Musee d'Orsay, the Centre Pompidou, the Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris and the Musee Picasso, as well as presenting a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the secrets of couture at the Musee Yves Saint Laurent. From the ancient world to pop art, Yves Saint Laurent regularly took inspiration from art history as he combined colours, carved out new forms and rethought the structure of garments in order to create his own masterpieces. Here, androgynous silhouettes and Proustian gowns stand alongside Manet's Le Dejeuner sur l'herbe, feather patterns respond to Jackson Pollock's drip paintings, flowing silhouettes merge with a mural by Raoul Dufy, Lucio Fontana's neon lights make metallic fabrics sparkle and the motifs on a coat echo The Dance by Henri Matisse. Exploring the couturier's deliberate homages to the masters of art and his never-ending quest for new means of aesthetic expression, this book takes readers on an unforgettable journey through art history with Yves Saint Laurent as a guide.

Bestselling author Claire Shaeffer teaches you everything you need to know to plan and sew the perfect jacket. Based on couture techniques learnt from master tailors, this book begins with the equipment, materials, design elements, and sewing and construction techniques used in all types of tailoring. Part Two provides an illustrated step-by-step guide to making a couture jacket, explaining all the design options and alternative methods for making every element including collars, sleeves and pockets. Couture Tailoring includes over 800 step-by-step illustrations throughout, over 200 photographs of couture jackets by Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and more than 100 couture tips. Any aspiring tailor must have this book in their fashion library.

Build the knowledge and understanding of garment technology essential to any designer In today's competitive fashion industry, it is essential that designers have a working understanding of garment technology. This 2nd edition has been comprehensively updated, with in-depth information on stitches, guides and attachments and sewing techniques, all of which are fully illustrated. There are enhanced chapters on machine and equipment technology explaining the uses, features and limitations of garment manufacturing equipment, enabling designers to create products that can be manufactured efficiently and with a high degree of quality. * Approached from the fashion designer's mindset, this book features illustrations to help users build their knowledge and understanding * Blends theoretical and practical material * Updated with the latest and most modern advances in clothing technology * Illustrated throughout to help shape the reader's knowledge and understanding of garment technology

In this visually stunning book, Lauren speaks candidly about himself and his art. In part one, we get to know the designer through never-before-seen pictures of him in private life and with his family, living the lives he designs for. In the second part, Lauren displays and writes about his most iconic and most beloved work, handpicked from hundreds of collections and his signature cinematic advertising campaigns. Lauren s aesthetic influence and unique design sensibility are captured here by fashion s finest photographers, including Bruce Weber, Deborah Turbeville, and Patrick Demarchelier.

To work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.

Foundations of Flat Patterning and Draping: For the Female Form provides the foundational tools necessary for success in the techniques of flat patterning and draping clothes and costumes. This book begins with the basics of taking measurements, preparing the fabric for draping, and preparing the dress form. The following chapters explore flat patterning and draping practices for bodices, skirts, pants, dresses, sleeves, collars, cuffs, and facings through detailed step-by-step instructions, checklists, and numerous diagrams. The bodice drafting instructions in this book, specifically, are a new method that accommodates all bust and cup sizes. There are instructions for small and large cup sizes allowing for a fit that does not gap at the armscye as typically happens with previous patterning methods, and additional sections for bodices and sleeves and how to manipulate them to create alternate looks. The techniques in this book generalize across sizes and shapes making it universally applicable for the student technician, as well as the person the garment is being developed for. Each method of drafting and draping has been class-tested and proven to produce well-fitting garments. Presented in an accessible format with clear instructions and detailed illustrations, this book is well suited for use as a textbook for the undergraduate college instructor teaching costuming or fashion, as well as for the student or individual learning on their own in theatre, film, or fashion industries.

Stays were the most important article of women's clothing in eighteenth-century life. Worn from infancy, they were designed to reshape the female body into an accepted aesthetic ideal. Starting with their production and trade, Sorge-English uses surviving examples to look at the intricacies of the staymaker's craft, the role of gender in the design and manufacture of stays and their changing shape over time. The study shows how long-term use caused serious health problems throughout women's lives and that as they became more involved in the production process women influenced their design to become closer to the natural female form. This book takes a unique approach to the cultural and social history of clothing by combining material analysis with more traditional research methods that includes the discovery of an eighteenth-century staymaker's diary.

The Mongol period (1206-1368) marked a major turning point of exchange - culturally, politically, and artistically - across Eurasia. The wide-ranging international exchange that occurred during the Mongol period is most apparent visually through the inclusion of Mongol motifs in textile, paintings, ceramics, and metalwork, among other media. Eiren Shea investigates how a group of newly-confederated tribes from the steppe conquered the most sophisticated societies in existence in less than a century, creating a courtly idiom that permanently changed the aesthetics of China and whose echoes were felt across Central Asia, the Middle East, and even Europe. This book will be of interest to scholars in art history, fashion design, and Asian studies.

Celebrating the astounding creativity and originality of designer Alexander McQueen, who relentlessly questioned and confronted the requisites of fashion "An authoritative and moving insight into the legacy of the British designer."-Carola Long, Financial Times "McQueen's brilliance is celebrated in this sumptuous tome."-Harper's Bazaar "Excellent."-Huffington Post Arguably the most influential, imaginative, and provocative designer of his generation, Alexander McQueen both challenged and expanded fashion conventions to express ideas about race, class, sexuality, religion, and the environment. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty examines the full breadth of the designer's career, from the start of his fledgling label to the triumphs of his own world-renowned London house. It features his most iconic and radical designs, revealing how McQueen adapted and combined the fundamentals of Savile Row tailoring, the specialized techniques of haute couture, and technological innovation to achieve his distinctive aesthetic. It also focuses on the highly sophisticated narrative structures underpinning his collections and extravagant runway presentations, with their echoes of avant-garde installation and performance art. Published to coincide with an exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art organized by The Costume Institute, this stunning book includes a preface by Andrew Bolton; an introduction by Susannah Frankel; an interview by Tim Blanks with Sarah Burton, creative director of the house of Alexander McQueen; illuminating quotes from the designer himself; provocative and captivating new photography by renowned photographer Solve Sundsbo; and a lenticular cover by Gary James McQueen. Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press Exhibition Schedule: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (May 4-August 7, 2011)

The study of fashion has exploded in recent decades, yet what this all means or quite where it might take us, is not clear. This new book helps to bring fashion into focus, with a comprehensive guide to the key theories, perspectives and developments in the field. Tim Edwards includes coverage of all the major theories of fashion, including recent scholarship, alongside subcultural analysis and an in-depth look at production. Individual topics include: * men's fashion, masculinity and the suit * women's fashion and the role of sexuality * children, the body and fashion * the role of celebrity and designer label culture * globalisation and the production of fashion. Fashion in Focus is the ideal companion for students in the arts and social sciences, especially those studying issues such as fashion, gender, sexuality and consumer culture.

There has been a great deal of recent interest in masculine clothing, examining both its production and consumption, and the ways in which it was used to create individual identities and to build businesses, from 1850 onwards. Drawing upon a wide range of sources this book studies the interaction between producers and consumers at a key period in the development of the ready-made clothing industry. It also shows that many innovations in advertising clothing, usually considered to have been developed in America, had earlier British precedents. To counter the lack of documentary evidence that has hitherto hampered research into the dress practices of non-elite groups, this book utilises thousands of unpublished visual documents. These include hundreds of manufacturers' designs, which underline an unexpected degree of investment by manufacturers in boys' clothing, and which was matched by heavy investment in advertising, with thousands of images of boys' clothing for shop catalogues in the Stationers' Hall copyright archive. Another key source is the archives of Dr Barnardo's Homes. This extraordinary collection contains over 15,000 documented photographs of boys entering between 1875 and 1900, allowing us to look beyond official polarization of 'raggedness' and 'respectability' used by charities and social reformers of all stripes and to establish the clothing that was actually worn by a large sample of boys. A close analysis of 1,800 images reveals that even when families were impoverished, they strove to present their boys in ways that reflected their position in the family group and in society. By drawing on these visual sources, and linking the design and retailing of boys' clothing with social, cultural and economic issues, this book shows that an understanding of the production and consumption of the boys clothing is central to debates on the growth of the consumer society, the development of mass-market fashion, and concepts of childhood and masculinity.

From the ashes of the Second World War came forward-thinking fashions, the likes of which had never been seen before. The early Forties were defined by thriftiness and practicality, a make-do-and-mend attitude in a time of war. However, the latter half of the decade saw the emergence of the traditional femininity, elegance and luxury often associated with the era. Spanning the austerity of the war years to the introduction of Dior's revolutionary New Look, this extensive survey brings together vintage photography and illustrations to follow the season-by-season fashion evolution of the Forties, providing a comprehensive overview of this period of contrasts. 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook covers every aspect of female fashions from the decade, from lace evening gowns, tailored jackets and furs to figure-sculpting undergarments, satin negligees and scandalous bikinis, offering the most comprehensive appraisal of this age of wartime and post-war glamour. This in-depth look at the styles and trends that shaped 1940s fashion features images of the decade's most iconic stars and designers. Stylish leading ladies such as Veronica Lake, Joan Bennett and Barbara Stanwyck are included as well as designs by Dior, Lucien Lelong, Balmain and Worth. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

The study of fashion has exploded in recent decades, yet quite what this all means, quite where it might take us, is not clear. This new book helps to bring fashion into focus, with a comprehensive guide to the key theories, perspectives and developments in the field. Tim Edwards includes coverage of all the major theories of fashion, including recent scholarship, alongside subcultural analysis and an in-depth look at production. Individual topics include: men's fashion, masculinity and the suit; women's fashion and the role of sexuality; children, the body and fashion; the role of celebrity and designer label culture; and, globalisation and the production of fashion. Fashion in Focus is the ideal companion for students in the arts and social sciences, especially those studying issues such as fashion, gender, sexuality and consumer culture.

Learn how to make and embellish six fabulous felt hats. 'A chic hat elevates any outfit and always draws compliments. I treasure my unique Bobbi Heath hat and now, thanks to her book, I can create my own from scratch at home. Bobbi is a natural teacher, she provides clear and easy-to-follow instructions and makes millinery fun.' - Susanna Brown - Curator, Victoria and Albert Museum A stunning felt hat is the perfect accessory for any occasion - from an everyday addition to your winter wardrobe to a head-turning statement piece for a special occasion. In this practical and informative guide, expert milliner Bobbi Heath shows you how to make felt hats in six different styles to perfectly complement any outfit, including a fabulous floppy hat, cloche, bucket, pill box, cap and button. Bobbi starts with the basics of how to measure your head, then talks you through the secrets of stiffening the felt, using steam to mould your fabric, and blocking. Learn invaluable stitching and edging techniques, then have fun experimenting with trimmings to make your hat unique. With a foreword by Dillion Wallwork, a London hat designer and prominent milliner for over 30 years, this practical book will appeal to all hat lovers and anyone looking for an easy introduction to the art of millinery.

Challenging the notion that fashion and furniture were or are separate enterprises and distinct material aesthetic traditions, this collection focuses on three material and conceptual links central to understanding the relationship between interior design and fashion-the body, fabric, and space. The volume considers the changing visual, material and spatial character, methodological challenges posed by, and formal, political and historiographical significance of, a wide range of British, European and North American case studies since the eighteenth century. The volume's eleven case studies allow the reader to understand connecting notions behind the formation of interiors and fashionable clothing. The essays combine a wide range of significant and challenging new examples alongside powerful reversionary analyses of the various periods, artists, designers, and their best and significant objects. Fashion, Interior Design and the Contours of Modern Identity is concerned not only with fabric, but also with the body and the implications of embodiment in the practices of both design domains which are equally invested in the comfort, aesthetic pleasure, extension and support of the body in different and yet seemingly identical ways.

"Women are into fashion, men are into style, style is forever" Domenico Dolce Womenswear progresses in leaps and bounds, fuelled by the readiness of women to wear what may at the time be perceived as the radical or outrageous. Not so menswear -menswear evolves, slowly. But from what? Behind nearly every item in the modern male wardrobe is a 'first of its kind' - the definitive item, often designed by a single company or brand for specialist use, on which all subsequent versions have been based (and originals of which are now collector items in the booming vintage market). The T-shirt, for example, may now be an innocuous, everyday item, but was created by American company Hanes for US Navy personnel at the turn of the 20th century and was subsequently adopted by sportsmen and bikers. Other items have been designed for sport, farm work, protection and made their way into everyday usage. Icons of Men's Style examines, garment by garment, the most important and famous of these products - their provenance and history, the stories of their design, the brand/company that started it all and how the item shaped the way men dress today.

Learn how to create historically accurate costumes for Elizabethan period productions with Elizabethan Costume Design and Construction! Extensive coverage of a variety of costumes for both men and women of all social classes will allow you to be prepared for any costuming need, and step-by-step instructions will ensure you have the know-how to design and construct your garments. Get inspired by stunning, hand-drawn renderings of costumes used in real life productions like Mary Stuart as you're led through the design process. Detailed instructions will allow you to bring your designs to life and create a meticulously constructed costume.

A striking, sumptuous portfolio of catwalk and behind-the-scene images of John Galliano's highly creative collections for his eponymous label John Galliano's (b. 1960) ascent in the world of fashion design was swift and filled with acclaim for his bold, quick-witted sensibility and his theatrical flair. He became head designer for Givenchy in 1995, and then for Christian Dior in 1996, and directed his own fashion label between 1996 and 2011. He was named Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards four times. Currently creative director of the Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela, Galliano has fascinated the fashion world with his often outrageous and whimsical creations, including some of the most memorable collections of the 20th century: from the iconic Suzie Sphinx collection to luxurious and edgy reinventions of Chinese, Peruvian, Yemeni, or Mongolian costumes. Unfolding chronologically with short texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox introducing each collection, John Galliano: Unseen captures the designer's mesmerizing creations for his eponymous label (including rich and idiosyncratic details) and the intense backstage work of Galliano's trusted collaborators. Robert Fairer's long stint as backstage photographer for Vogue gives him a unique perspective, and his exquisite photographs of Galliano's collections, many of which are published here for the first time, offer insights into the extravagance and playfulness of one of the world's most flamboyant, innovative, and controversial fashion designers at the zenith of his career.

In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Bronte, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Gorgeous paper constructions expand on Hermès scarf designs in this luxury pop-up book.

Every year, the iconic luxury brand Hermès chooses a new theme to celebrate its creative direction for the upcoming year. This practice began in 1987, marking the brand s 150th anniversary, and has since become a beloved tradition a way to combine the house s proud, storied heritage with its creative vision for the future.

This year s theme is Let s Play , and Hermès is celebrating in style with this new, deluxe pop-up book. Featuring a selection of fourteen of the house s iconic square scarf designs, both old and more recent, this book brings the designs alive with exhilarating ingenuity. Delicate paper constructions bring out the depth and volume within the scarf designs; zebras rear up, delicately arching trees grow from the page and painterly strokes detach themselves from the paper surface. This is the Hermès carré as you ve never seen it before.

For Hermès, a brand associated with the highest quality luxury materials and design, play is movement, freedom, imagination, fantasy, seduction, lightness. Impeccably produced, Hermès Pop Up gives readers the chance to play around in the brand s archives.