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Books > Arts & Architecture > Industrial / commercial art & design > Fashion design
Here is a look at some typical and some extraordinary clothing of mid-century. Whether by well-known or unrecognized designers, all are well-designed and well-constructed. Each of the nearly 500 photographs was taken outdoors against a landscape showing the season. With close-ups of fabrics and labels, detailed captions, a fashion timeline with historic context, and a value guide, this book will be an exciting addition to any library and a must for anyone interested in great fashion design and/or the period.
Sleek. Chic. Notoriously guarded. Welcome to the secret world of Gabrielle Chanel. The story of Chanel begins with an abandoned child, as lost as a girl in a dark fairy tale. Unveiling remarkable new details about Gabrielle Chanel's early years in a convent orphanage and her flight into unconventional adulthood, Justine Picardie explores what lies beneath the glossy surface of a mythic fashion icon. Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. An authoritative account, based on personal observations and interviews with Chanel's last surviving friends, employees and relatives, it also unravels her coded language and symbols, and traces the influence of her formative years on her legendary style. Feared and revered by the rest of the fashion industry, Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of eighty-seven, but her legacy lives on. Drawing on unprecedented research, Justine Picardie brings her fascinating, enigmatic subject out of hiding and uncovers the consequences of what Chanel covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and myth in a story that reveals the true heart of fashion.
Jermyn Street in St James's, London, has been the Mecca of fine British shirtmaking for more than a century. Patrons have included Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Roger Moore, the Beatles, Warren Beatty, Pierce Brosnan, the Prince of Wales, Sir Michael Caine and Ronald Reagan. Between them, these shirtmaking artisans have styled that most debonair of onscreen heroes, James Bond. Indeed, the Jermyn Street shirt is the ultimate in entry-level luxury menswear. For many years seen as a stuffy and elitist institution, the advent of Instagram has seen the doors to the world's finest shirtmakers blown open as tailoring enthusiasts come together to share their passion. The Jermyn Street Shirt includes a wealth of sartorial showbusiness anecdotes as well as style tips from some of the big screen's most dapper stars. With unique access to many of the makers, including Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key and Budd, Jonathan Sothcott presents an expertly curated pictorial treasure trove of previously unseen ephemera, including celebrity shirt patterns and samples.
'Each shoot is a total love letter to an object from the V&A, sometimes several objects. My relationship to objects is like falling in love with someone. It relates to how we interact as people, how you become best friends with someone. It's a search for a new friend...' TIM WALKER Published to accompany the V&A's mesmerizing exhibition Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, this book is a journey through the creative mind of one of the world's most inventive photographers. It presents over 100 compelling photographs, from ten magical photoshoots inspired by objects from the V&A's enormous and eclectic collection. Featuring conversations between the set designers, stylists, hair and make-up artists, models and muses who bring Walker's imagination to life, it includes contributions by Jack Appleyard, Zoe Bedeaux, Terry Bloxham, Edie Campbell, Gwendoline Christie, Josephine Cowell, James Crewe, Malcolm Edwards, Karen Elson, Katy England, Edward Enninful OBE, Amanda Harlech, Shona Heath, Hungry/Johannes Jaruraak, Ibrahim Kamara, Kate Phelan, James Spencer, Jerry Stafford, Tilda Swinton and Gareth Wrighton. Previously unpublished behind-the-scenes imagery and preliminary sketches combine to reveal Walker's extraordinary creative process, from his detailed research in the labyrinth of storerooms and galleries at the V&A, to his spectacular final pictures.
Images are everywhere. They are displayed in streets. They are leafed through in magazines. They jump out of our screens. And what we most remember about them is the emotion they rouse. The work of photo stylists is still not widely known. Yet this work is vital to conveying the right fashion message. This publication takes you into the anteroom of professions in fashion to discover the work behind the scenes of photo creation: preliminary style drafts, photo studios and casting. It is also a chance to dive into the basics of framing and photography. Theories, focus points, tutorials and interviews with professionals will help you better contemplate the job of photo stylist.
Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel is an icon of fashion, and can lay claim to having invented the look of the 20th century. At the height of the Belle Epoque, she stripped women of their corsets and feathers, bobbed their hair, put them in bathing suits and sent them out to get tanned in the sun. She introduced the little black dress; trousers for women; costume jewelry; the exquisitely comfortable suit that became her trademark. Early in the Roaring Twenties, Chanel made the first ever couture perfume - No. 5 - presenting it in the famous little square-cut flagon that, inspired by Picasso and Cubism, became the arch symbol of the Art Deco style. No. 5 remains the most popular scent ever created. This volume, published to accompany a landmark exhibition in Paris, traces the birth and evolution of Chanel's timeless style. Specially commissioned photographs by Julien T. Hamon showcase the clothing, while essays by fashion historians illuminate a period, an event or a theme. Rare archival documents, including portraits of Gabrielle Chanel herself, round out the book.
The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches - including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.
Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.
As testified by the monumental success of the recent Dior retrospective curated by the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, 'Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams', which attracted over 700,000 visitors over its extended run, John Galliano's creations for the house of Dior have entered fashion history and are widely recognized as some of the most breathtaking and imaginative collections ever created. John Galliano for Dior is the first publication entirely dedicated to showcasing these unforgettable designs, which have become collectors' items and form a key chapter of the history of the house of Dior - 'the greatest house in the world', as Galliano stated when he was first placed at its helm. 'I see myself as a guardian of [Christian Dior's] spirit, a keeper of his dreams,' he added. The book unfolds chronologically, revisiting the most iconic creations and revealing previously unseen behind-the-scenes moments that capture models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and John Galliano himself at their most creative. Robert Fairer's stunning and high-energy photographs convey the drama, glamour and wild imagination that defined Galliano's Dior shows. A treasure trove of inspiration, they make this publication a must-have reference for fashion and photography lovers alike.
Coco Rules takes 30 quotes from the inimitable Coco Chanel and translates them into modern, practical style rules to live by. With her trademark acerbic wit and no-nonsense attitude, Coco Chanel has always been a wonderfully entertaining source on matters of life and style. Coco Rules gathers her words of wisdom on both fashion and empowerment and uses them to provide solutions to many of the style-based conundrums you might encounter, as well as inspiration on how to be the very best version of yourself - strong, fearless and confident - no matter what you wear. Written by acclaimed fashion journalist Katherine Ormerod, each rule is accompanied by a bold and stylish illustration from Carolina Melis.
From the turbulence of the 1930s emerged the Golden Age of Glamour. Framed by two world-changing events - the economic crash of 1929 and the outbreak of the Second World War - the 1930s saw new looks emerge and thrive, despite economic and social uncertainty. This was the decade of the bias cut, the statement shoulder, the puff sleeve, the tea dress, the fur shrug and the floor-length evening gown. It was also the era that saw Hollywood challenge Paris's fashion crown and its stars become fashion icons, signalling a new grown-up direction in womenswear design. Packed with over 500 original photographs, illustrations and sketches from the decade, this is an essential guide for any fashion historian, student or vintage enthusiast. These classic images have been selected from popular fashion publications of the day, mail-order catalogues and Hollywood studio press shots, including material from Chic Parisien, Harper's Bazaar, Sears, La Femme Chic and film studios Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer and Paramount. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.
The importance of fashion and design in an events context remains under-researched, despite their ubiquity and significance from a societal and economic perspective. Fashion-themed events, for example, appeal to broad audiences and may tour the globe. Staging these events might help to brand destinations, boost visitor numbers and trigger popular debates about the contributions that fashion and design can make to identity. They may also tell us something about our culture and wider society. This edited volume for the first time examines fashion and design events from a social perspective, including the meanings they bestow and their potential economic, cultural and personal impacts. It explores the reasons for their popularity and influence, and provides a critique of their growth in different markets. Events examined include fashion weeks, fashion or design themed exhibitions, historical re-enactments, extreme/alternative fashion and design events, and large-scale public events such as royal weddings and horse races. International examples and case studies are drawn from countries as diverse as the USA, UK, Germany, Bhutan, New Zealand and Australia. These are used to develop and critique various thematic concepts linked to fashion and design events, such as identity, gender, aspirations and self-image, commodification, authenticity, destination development and marketing, business strategy and protection/infringement of intellectual property. Fashion, Design and Events also provides a futurist view of these types of events and sets out a future research agenda. This book has a unique focus on events associated with fashion and design and features a swathe of disciplinary backgrounds. It will appeal to a broad academic audience, such as students of art and design, cultural studies, tourism, events studies, sociology and marketing.
Fingerless gloves have burst onto the fashion scene in recent years--with designers from Gucci to Kate Spade embracing this popular style. Now home knitters can create personalized fingerless gloves using original Japanese knitting patterns. From the editors of Nihon Vogue--the Japanese publisher of worldwide knitting bestsellers by Hitomi Shida, Yoko Hatta, Keiko Okamoto and other top knitting designers--Easy Knitted Fingerless Gloves presents an updated take on a favorite cool weather accessory with classic patterns like Fair Isle, Aran, cables and knit-and-purl, all knitted using Japanese charts and techniques. Among the 21 patterns in this book you'll find: Fair Isle-patterned gloves with lacy cuffs A pair of slouchy, lightweight arm warmers Cozy picot-finished gloves with loop-stitched cuffs Elegant beaded mohair cuffs And more! The colorful patterns and classy neutrals offer something for every personal style and level of coziness. A few basic lessons--aimed at those who already have some knitting experience--and a step-by-step guide to the Japanese knitting symbols help simplify the process. Easy Knitted Fingerless Gloves brings knitters everywhere a step closer to Japan's much-loved styles and techniques. Once you get started, making these beauties will be as addicting as wearing them!
If you love the designs, fabrics, and sheer beauty of 19th and early 20th century women's fashions, this book will be your guide and time machine. It presents over 450 enchanting color photographs of modern-day models wearing the dresses, waists, undergarments, and accessories of this elegant era, including daywear, sportswear, and formalwear. Unusual items such as fancy dress, aesthetic garments, and reform styles are explained and illustrated. This book will help both novice and expert collectors accurately identify and date their collections by evaluating the silhouette, construction, style, and details of fashionable garments. Sound advice for maintaining, laundering, and repairing them is also provided, as is an updated price guide.
Looking through the pages of Fun Fabrics of the 50s will transport you back to the days of Beaver Cleaver shirt plaids, cowboy heroes flannel pajamas, early American rec room drapery, splashy lounge chair tropical blooms, housewives' duster florals, and festive south-of-the-border kitchen curtains. The decade's fascination with geometric shapes, bright colors and "foreign" motifs results in interesting, sometimes strange, combinations of design. For designers and 50s fanatics alike, this full-color book offers hundreds of fabric styles that reflect an innocent era.
Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry. Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia). Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.
Barbara Hulanicki was the creator of the iconic BIBA fashion label which captured the imagination of a generation and gained cult status in 'Swinging London' in the '60s and '70s. Barbara started her career as a fashion illustrator working for magazines and newspapers from Vogue to the Daily Mirror, so who could be better placed to create a fashion workbook? Barbara Hulanicki's Fashion Illustration Workbook is great fun for everybody - from young children and students, to those who remember the period with such affection. Create whatever you want with this innovative book, copy the work of a brilliant artist, design your own hats, make up or hair fashion; colour in the dresses of various models in an array of colourways or create your own BIBA inspired prints.
This is the first in-depth, book-length study on fashion and Italian cinema from the silent film to the present. Italian cinema launched Italian fashion to the world. The book is the story of this launch. The creation of an Italian style and fashion as they are perceived today, especially by foreigners, was a product of the post World War II years. Before then, Parisian fashion had dominated Europe and the world. Just as fashion was part of Parisian and French national identity, the book explores the process of shaping and inventing an Italian style and fashion that ran parallel to, and at times took the lead in, the creation of an Italian national identity. In bringing to the fore these intersections, as well as emphasizing the importance of craft in cinema, fashion and costume design, the book aims to offer new visions of films by directors such as Nino Oxilia, Mario Camerini, Alessandro Blasetti, Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Luchino Visconti and Paolo Sorrentino, of film stars such as Lyda Borelli, Francesca Bertini, Pina Menichelli, Lucia Bose, Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, Toni Servillo and others, and the costume archives and designers who have been central to the development of Made in Italy and Italian style.
An in-depth analysis of the business empire set up by Yves Saint Laurent's lover Pierre Berge and an insight into the life of a tragic 20th-century genius.
This book provides an overview for identifying and dating vintage eyewear for the growing numbers of collectors. Explore ways in which eyeglass design has developed to reflect both popular fashion and scientific investigation.The designs of frames and lenses were changed as more comfortable and practical styles were invented. In the mid-twentieth century, eyeglass makers carefully sought high profile entertainers to wear their designs in order to promote their companies. Advertising worked its magic and the general public came to prefer the advertised designs. Examples of eyewear from the sevententh century to the present are shown in over 600 color photos and explained in an engaging text. Bifocals, monocles, pince-nez, fanciful and safety styles of eyeglasses and sunglasses are shown along with some price estimates.
This practical book explains how to achieve great designs and creative cuts by seeing ideas come to life three dimensionally. By manipulating and pinning fabric on the dress form or house model, fashion designers can visualise their ideas and become more confident with their own creative visions. This new book includes advice on how to measure the body, as well as prepare the mannequin and fabric; it explains the draping process in detail with step-by-step instructions and practical tips throughout. It gives advice on working at half scale and provides calico preparation diagrams. Finally, there are chapters which introduce new design elements and/or garment type, and covers dresses, skirts, shirts and blouses. Written by a leading designer, Draping for Fashion Design is an essential guide to this skill (also known as 'moulage'), and explains how the fashion designer can understand their designs more fully, as well as the fabric and the garment's fit, in order to achieve impressive and sometimes unexpected results.
This gorgeous work takes a sentimental journey through 100 years of fashion accessories that have added individuality to each "new look." Hundreds of hats, shoes, gloves, scarves, jewelry, handbags, and more are presented in a decade-by-decade progression of fashion styles. The 478 glorious color photographs, original drawings, and extensive text bring the century to life-for "what" people wore reflects the tenor of the times that tells us "why!" This book is nostalgic, informative and a feast for the eyes. Collectors of vintage clothing will covet the information and outstandingly beautiful illustrations.
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