Sleek. Chic. Notoriously guarded. Welcome to the secret world of Gabrielle Chanel.

The story of Chanel begins with an abandoned child, as lost as a girl in a dark fairy tale. Unveiling remarkable new details about Gabrielle Chanel's early years in a convent orphanage and her flight into unconventional adulthood, Justine Picardie explores what lies beneath the glossy surface of a mythic fashion icon.

Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. An authoritative account, based on personal observations and interviews with Chanel's last surviving friends, employees and relatives, it also unravels her coded language and symbols, and traces the influence of her formative years on her legendary style.

Feared and revered by the rest of the fashion industry, Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of eighty-seven, but her legacy lives on. Drawing on unprecedented research, Justine Picardie brings her fascinating, enigmatic subject out of hiding and uncovers the consequences of what Chanel covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and myth in a story that reveals the true heart of fashion.

Hats represent an art form that is opening up new vistas for the vintage clothing collector. For the authors hats are a visual treat, and they have crafted a book that is chuck-full of some of the sweetest you'll ever see. This carefully researched book profiles important American and European milliners, and lists the most desirable designer and salon labels. It offers special sections with tips on dating, valuation, and storing and decoration. 500 vivid photos are beautifully styled and enhanced by lively and informative captions. Many period advertisements and illustrations from popular magazines depict the styles and moods of the times.

On January 21, 1971, couturier Yves Saint Laurent presented his Spring-Summer haute couture collection. Inspired by the garments of the war years, the collection included short dresses, platform shoes, square shoulders, and exaggerated makeup. The show caused an outrage among the public, the critics, and the press alike, earning it the title of "Paris's ugliest collection." Nevertheless, the haute couture designs of the runway made their way to the boulevards, giving full sway to the "retro" trend that quickly conquered the streets. Yves Saint Laurent: The Scandal Collection, 1971 offers a behind-the-scenes look at the influential collection that "drew fire in the fashion world" from the collection's inspiration to the press coverage that followed. Beautifully illustrated and documented with well-researched essays, this book is enriched with personal interviews and archival photographs of the show, the models, the designs, and the textile and print samples, as well as sketches and international press clippings.

A veteran of Fruits magazine, Rei Shito is a pioneer of the Harajuku street-style scene. Known for her unique ability to capture the unexpected, Rei's collection of street snaps offers a local girl's look into Tokyo's inimitable style--one that is honest, descriptive, and always super cool. Unlike most street-fashion compendiums, entire chapters are tutorials on achieving your own signature style. Illustrated and with step-by-step instructions, Rei unlocks the secret to pairing bold graphics, patterns, and metallics with everyday staples to create ensembles that are at once fearless and effortless. Commentary from fashion insiders including Scott Schuman, Phil Oh, Susie Bubble, and Tommy Ton highlights the influence that Tokyo street style continues to have on fashion, while dozens of tips and tricks offer readers endless inspiration on how to master pattern, texture, and color to create the perfect outfit the Tokyo way. This collection of diverse, urban style inspirations is a necessity for any fashion lover's bookshelf.

An industry-focused guide to patternmaking with Gerber AccuMark software. Patternmaking and Grading: Using Gerber AccuMark Pattern Design, 1/e examines every aspect of patternmaking and grading using Gerber AccuMark Pattern Design software and hones in on the job responsibilities often assigned to apparel patternmakers and graders. Rather than focus solely on software commands, the text incorporates invaluable insight gained from the author's extensive experience as an industry insider. Lessons, exercises, and quizzes focus not only on teaching the software, but also on preparing students to be successful industry professionals. Chapters cover all aspects of patternmaking, including pattern creation, drafting, digitizing, plotting, knockoffs, data conversion, spec sheets, and costing markers. Teaching and Learning Experience Patternmaking and Grading has been designed to be the most effective and robust text on the market. It provides: *Robust, current content: Lininger offers up-to-date content referencing the most recent software and industry practices.*Chapters designed for learning: Logical organization and effective chapter features help students truly master chapter material. *Downloadable pattern data: Sample patterns and templates help students practice in-text procedures. *A truly customizable resource: Instructors can customize the text to best suit their individual needs.

Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches - including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.

The importance of fashion and design in an events context remains under-researched, despite their ubiquity and significance from a societal and economic perspective. Fashion-themed events, for example, appeal to broad audiences and may tour the globe. Staging these events might help to brand destinations, boost visitor numbers and trigger popular debates about the contributions that fashion and design can make to identity. They may also tell us something about our culture and wider society. This edited volume for the first time examines fashion and design events from a social perspective, including the meanings they bestow and their potential economic, cultural and personal impacts. It explores the reasons for their popularity and influence, and provides a critique of their growth in different markets. Events examined include fashion weeks, fashion or design themed exhibitions, historical re-enactments, extreme/alternative fashion and design events, and large-scale public events such as royal weddings and horse races. International examples and case studies are drawn from countries as diverse as the USA, UK, Germany, Bhutan, New Zealand and Australia. These are used to develop and critique various thematic concepts linked to fashion and design events, such as identity, gender, aspirations and self-image, commodification, authenticity, destination development and marketing, business strategy and protection/infringement of intellectual property. Fashion, Design and Events also provides a futurist view of these types of events and sets out a future research agenda. This book has a unique focus on events associated with fashion and design and features a swathe of disciplinary backgrounds. It will appeal to a broad academic audience, such as students of art and design, cultural studies, tourism, events studies, sociology and marketing.

Looking through the pages of Fun Fabrics of the 50s will transport you back to the days of Beaver Cleaver shirt plaids, cowboy heroes flannel pajamas, early American rec room drapery, splashy lounge chair tropical blooms, housewives' duster florals, and festive south-of-the-border kitchen curtains. The decade's fascination with geometric shapes, bright colors and "foreign" motifs results in interesting, sometimes strange, combinations of design. For designers and 50s fanatics alike, this full-color book offers hundreds of fabric styles that reflect an innocent era.

Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry. Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia). Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.

This book provides an overview for identifying and dating vintage eyewear for the growing numbers of collectors. Explore ways in which eyeglass design has developed to reflect both popular fashion and scientific investigation.The designs of frames and lenses were changed as more comfortable and practical styles were invented. In the mid-twentieth century, eyeglass makers carefully sought high profile entertainers to wear their designs in order to promote their companies. Advertising worked its magic and the general public came to prefer the advertised designs. Examples of eyewear from the sevententh century to the present are shown in over 600 color photos and explained in an engaging text. Bifocals, monocles, pince-nez, fanciful and safety styles of eyeglasses and sunglasses are shown along with some price estimates.

Fingerless gloves have burst onto the fashion scene in recent years--with designers from Gucci to Kate Spade embracing this popular style. Now home knitters can create personalized fingerless gloves using original Japanese knitting patterns. From the editors of Nihon Vogue--the Japanese publisher of worldwide knitting bestsellers by Hitomi Shida, Yoko Hatta, Keiko Okamoto and other top knitting designers--Easy Knitted Fingerless Gloves presents an updated take on a favorite cool weather accessory with classic patterns like Fair Isle, Aran, cables and knit-and-purl, all knitted using Japanese charts and techniques. Among the 21 patterns in this book you'll find: Fair Isle-patterned gloves with lacy cuffs A pair of slouchy, lightweight arm warmers Cozy picot-finished gloves with loop-stitched cuffs Elegant beaded mohair cuffs And more! The colorful patterns and classy neutrals offer something for every personal style and level of coziness. A few basic lessons--aimed at those who already have some knitting experience--and a step-by-step guide to the Japanese knitting symbols help simplify the process. Easy Knitted Fingerless Gloves brings knitters everywhere a step closer to Japan's much-loved styles and techniques. Once you get started, making these beauties will be as addicting as wearing them!

This gorgeous work takes a sentimental journey through 100 years of fashion accessories that have added individuality to each "new look." Hundreds of hats, shoes, gloves, scarves, jewelry, handbags, and more are presented in a decade-by-decade progression of fashion styles. The 478 glorious color photographs, original drawings, and extensive text bring the century to life-for "what" people wore reflects the tenor of the times that tells us "why!" This book is nostalgic, informative and a feast for the eyes. Collectors of vintage clothing will covet the information and outstandingly beautiful illustrations.

In this new addition to the Pattern Magic series from Japan, Tomoko Nakamichi teaches you how to sculpt with fabric, creating beautiful shapes, waves and accents. Next, she looks at creating dynamic movement in garments, using ruffles, shirring and precise, sharply pleated lines. All the measurements and scaling information you need to start pattern making is included. As throughout the series, all the patterns are based on a basic block, supplied in the book. Thorough step-by-step instructions and diagrams will ensure that your own patterns translate beautifully to your choice of garment, while photographs of the finished garments will inspire you to create your own designs.

The Ambassador has been described as 'probably the most daring and enterprising trade magazine ever conceived'. With the motto 'Export or Die!', the magazine was renowned for its innovative design and adventurous editorial approach in promoting British manufacturing in the post-war period. This book takes a detailed look at the background and impact of The Ambassador. The magazine was driven by the vision of its founder Hans Juda and his wife, Elsbeth, who was responsible for much of the magazine's striking photography. Focusing on the perceived strengths of British industry, they set up ambitious photo shoots to showcase the latest couture fashions by the likes of Charles Creed and Victor Stiebel. The magazine promoted fine art as an inspiration for design, and commissioned artists such as John Piper and Henry Moore for their covers.

Barbara Hulanicki was the creator of the iconic BIBA fashion label which captured the imagination of a generation and gained cult status in 'Swinging London' in the '60s and '70s. Barbara started her career as a fashion illustrator working for magazines and newspapers from Vogue to the Daily Mirror, so who could be better placed to create a fashion workbook? Barbara Hulanicki's Fashion Illustration Workbook is great fun for everybody - from young children and students, to those who remember the period with such affection. Create whatever you want with this innovative book, copy the work of a brilliant artist, design your own hats, make up or hair fashion; colour in the dresses of various models in an array of colourways or create your own BIBA inspired prints.

From choosing the right pair of eyeglasses to properly coordinating a shirt, tie, and pocket square, getting dressed is an art to be mastered. Yet, how many of us just throw on, well, whatever each morning? How many understand the subtleties of selecting the right pair of socks or the most compatible patterns of our various garments,much less the history, imperatives, and importance of our choices?In True Style , acclaimed fashion expert G. Bruce Boyer provides a crisp, indispensable primer for this daily ritual, catalogueuing the essential elements of the male wardrobe and showing how best to employ them. In witty, stylish prose, Boyer breezes through classic items and traditions in menswear, detailing the evolution and best uses of fabrics like denim and linen, accoutrements like neckties and eyeglasses, and principles for combining patterns, colours, and textures. He enlightens readers about acceptable circumstances for donning a turtleneck, declaims the evils of wearing dress shoes without socks, and trumpets the virtues of sprezzatura, the artistry of concealing effort beneath a cloak of nonchalance.With a gentle yet firm approach to the rules of dressing and an incredible working knowledge of the different items, styles, and principles of menswear, Boyer provides essential wardrobe guidance for the discriminating gentleman, explaining what true style looks like,and why.

A favorite of Spike Lee, Drake, and the British boy band One Direction, the brand has its broadest appeal among the football fans of the English Premier League. Starting in the 1990s, Stone Island parkas appeared in the stands at Stoke City, Blackburn Rovers, and in cities in the north, migrating ever south to the Midlands, and ultimately to London teams such as Chelsea, Arsenal, and Tottenham. Famously worn by the likes of soccer guru Pep Guardiola, The Guardian notes that the brand entered into fashion folklore as a tough, working-class premium brand that could set you back a couple of months wages for a single jacket. More recently, the brand has experienced a surge in popularity, garnering an explosive following in the rap, hip-hop, and grime scenes rocked by the likes of Travis Scott, Vince Staples, Skepta, Kano, and Boy Better Know. Cementing its place among the masters of contemporary cool, Stone Island has ongoing collabs with Supreme and Nike. This is the first book to publish the complete history of the brand, from inception to modern day. Straight from the Stone Island archives, this volume is filled with stunning, never-before-seen images and texts, and it also takes a deep dive into the technical processes that this brand is known for.

Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-cutting book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometric shapes and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. The book takes a creative approach to pattern cutting, with step-by-step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. All the basic information you need to start pattern cutting is included, from the basic block to measurements and scaling. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the toiles and the finished garments. These easy-to-follow illustrations and detailed instructions make it easy to create stunning, sculptural clothes with a couture look.

After many requests for a book about clothing labels we decided to put one together featuring a wonderful gallery of labels for artists, textile manufacturers, graphic designers, and just plan old ordinary people to enjoy. This book includes a little bit of history and technical information as well as a diverse selection of lovely labels to look at and be inspired by. There are labels dating back to the turn of the century, as well as a current roster of famous names and contemporary designs. A wonderful introduction gives a comprehensive overview of the history of garment labels and manufacturing techniques. A resource guide lists many of today's leading clothing-label manufacturers. After leafing through this book, you'll never take your clothing labels for granted again! This is an excellent, inspirational resource for fashion designers and historians.

This innovative and breathtakingly detailed book from the V&A presents dress patterns, construction details, embroidery, and making instructions (including a knitting pattern and lacemaking) for 15 garments and accessories from a 17th-century British woman's wardrobe. Step-by-step drawings of the construction sequence and scale patterns for each garment enable readers to accurately reconstruct them. There are scale diagrams for making linen and metal thread laces, silk braids, and embroidery designs. Multiple photographs, close-up construction details, and X-ray photography reveal the hidden elements of the clothes, the number of layers, and the stitches used inside. This first book in a new series takes the physical examination and study of historical clothing to a new depth and degree of detail, using the expertise of designers, tailors, and makers from London's Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

This book tells the story of critical avant-garde design in Japan, which emerged during the 1960s and continues to inspire designers today. The practice communicates a form of visual and material protest drawing on the ideologies and critical theories of the 1960s and 1970s, notably feminism, body politics, the politics of identity, and ecological, anti-consumerist and anti-institutional critiques, as well as the concept of otherness. It also presents an encounter between two seemingly contradictory concepts: luxury and the avant-garde. The book challenges the definition of design as the production of unnecessary decorative and conceptual objects, and the characterisation of Japanese design in particular as beautiful, sublime or a product of 'Japanese culture'. In doing so it reveals the ways in which material and visual culture serve to voice protest and formulate a social critique. -- .