Draping, also known as moulage, is a fashion design technique that involves working with fabric directly on a mannequin, 'sculpting' the toile on a dress form. Imagination and freedom are the key principles of this process, allowing the designer to start from an idea and change it as the garment progresses. Pieces take shape inch-by-inch on the dress form, going directly from sketch to fabric. Using the intricate process of draping, this extensively illustrated publication is an essential step-by-step guide for students, couture connoisseurs and fashion professionals who want to delve deeper into a technique used by prestigious fashion houses around the globe. This volume offers everything readers need to learn about the principles of draping and to gain a solid foundation for making their own imaginative pieces without limiting their creativity.

Profiles Jean Shrimpton, Suzy Parker, Capucine, and other leading models of a period when the fashion ideal was a sophisticated adult woman, rather than the more childlike figure that became popular in the late 1960s.

* An essential reference for students, curators and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, and the expanding range of disciplines that see fashion as imbued with meaning far beyond the material. * Over 300 in-depth entries covering designers, articles of clothing, key concepts and styles. * Edited and introduced by Valerie Steele, a scholar who has revolutionized the study of fashion, and who has been described by The Washington Post as one of "fashion's brainiest women." Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is anything but a neutral topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even amongst those who may feel impervious. This handy volume is a one-stop reference for anyone interested in fashion - its meaning, history and theory. From Avedon to Codpiece, Dandyism to the G-String, Japanese Fashion to Subcultures, Trickle down to Zoot Suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of this most fascinating of topics and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come.

Combining transnationalism and exoticism, transorientalism is the new orientalism of the age of globalization. With its roots in earlier times, it is a term that emphasizes alteration, mutation, and exchange between cultures. While the familiar orientalisms persist, transorientalism is a term that covers notions like the adoption of a hat from a different country for Turkish nationalist dress, the fact that an Italian could be one of the most influential directors in recent Chinese cinema, that Muslim women artists explore Islamic womanhood in non-Islamic countries, that artists can embrace both indigenous and non-indigenous identity at the same time. This is more than nostalgia or bland nationalism. It is a reflection of the effect that communication and representation in recent decades have brought to the way in which national identity is crafted and constructed-yet this does not make it any less authentic. The diversity of race and culture, the manner in which they are expressed and transacted, are most evident in art, fashion, and film. This much-needed book offers a refreshing, informed, and incisive account of a paradigm shift in the ways in which identity and otherness is moulded, perceived, and portrayed.

This book demonstrates how fashion brands communicate, why the practice is significant within wider society and how it can be perceived as culturally meaningful. Enabling readers to connect the tools and techniques of communication with their theoretical underpinnings and historical antecedents, the book shows how these methods can be applied in practice. The authors utilise social, consumer and cultural theory, and frameworks rooted in psychology, sociology and economics, as mechanisms to analyse and deconstruct current communication strategies used by fashion brands. The book presents insights and strategies for communicating authentic values, conveying a clearly defined aesthetic and visual language and generating shareable content that resonates with audiences. With insights into strategies used by brands including Burberry, Gucci, Dior, COS, Rapha, Warby Parker and Maryam Nassir Zadeh, each chapter outlines ways of maintaining relevant and consistent brand narratives in the 21st century. From how to sustain a dialogue with a brand's community, to the use of brand collaboration, co-creative storytelling and fashion spaces, the book aims to develop reflective communication practitioners who have a deep understanding of the cultural landscape, brand strategy and industry innovation. Written for scholars and practitioners, this book is a valuable blend of theory and practice across the fields of fashion, communication and branding.

So you've mastered the basics in shirtmaking and you are looking to create your own couture blouses, dress shirts, or jackets... Well, you are in luck then. David Page Coffin, author of "Shirtmaking," is back to help you through amazing custom patterns for men and women Inside you'll find a helpful guide explaining specific concepts, structures, and styles, such as: Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block, Sport (or Unshaped) Shirt Block, Knit (or Stretch-to-Fit) Shirt Block, Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block, and Shirt-Jacket (or Over-Sized) Block. "The Shirtmaking Workbook" also includes lists for further reading, suppliers, and references to help make your custom shirtmaking easier. With these shirtmaking basics, you'll be creating hundreds of fashionable designs in no time

Men in khaki and grey squatting in the trenches, women at work, gender bending in goggles and overalls over their trousers, a girl at the Paris theatre in pleated, beaded silk, a bangle on her forearm made from copper fuse wire from the Somme. What people wear matters. Copiously illustrated, this book is the story of what people on both sides wore on the front line and on the home front through the seismic years of World War I. Nina Edwards, reveals fresh aspects of the war through the prism of the smallest details of personal dress, of clothes, hair and accessories, both in uniform and civilian wear. She explores how, during a period of extraordinary upheaval and rapid change, a particular preference for a type of razor blade or perfume, say, or the just-so adjustment to the tilt of a hat, offer insights into the individual experience of men, women and children during the course of World War I.

Enter an ultra-patriotic era of "military mood" fashions, replete in red, white, and blue. One in a series of books from Schiffer Publishing documenting fashion trends in America, this is an invaluable resource for fashion designers looking to revive and rework retro styles, for costume designers working to recreate an era, and for collectors and historians wanting to document vintage clothing. A visual treasure chest, this book offers more than 400 full-color photographs, with thousands of items of clothing, shoes, and accessories pictured, along with detailed descriptions. A guide to retail values for these items on today's market is featured as well.

D_Tex is proposed as a hub around which it is possible to look at textiles in their different forms, in order to better understand, study, adapt and project them for the future. It is intended to build a flow of ideas and concepts so that participants can arrive at new ideas and concepts and work them in their own way, adapting them to their objectives and research. D_Tex is intended as a space for sharing and building knowledge around textile material in order to propose new understandings and explorations. Present in all areas of knowledge, the textile material bets on renewed social readings and its evolutions to constantly reinvent itself and enable innovative cultural and aesthetic dimensions and unexpected applications to solve questions and promote new knowledge. D_Tex proposes to promote discussion and knowledge in the different areas where textiles, with all their characteristics, can ensure an important contribution, combining material and immaterial knowledge, innovative and traditional techniques, technological and innovative materials and methods, but also new organization and service models, different concepts and views on teaching. With the renewed idea of the intrinsic interdisciplinarity of design and sharing with different areas that support each other, the research and practice of textiles was proposed by the D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2019, held June 19-21, 2019 at the Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal under the theme "In Touch" where, as broadly understood as possible, different areas of textiles were regarded as needing to keep in touch with each other and end users in order to promote and share the best they can offer for the welfare of their users and consumers.

What do you use every day that is small and large, worthless and beyond price? It's easily found in the gutter, yet you may never be able to replace it. You are always losing it but it faithfully protects you; sexy and uptight, it is knitted in to your affections or it may give you nightmares. It has led to conflict, fostered and repressed political and religious change and epitomizes the great aesthetic movements. It's Eurocentric, and is found all over the world. On the Button is an inventive and unusual exploration of the cultural history of the button, illustrated with a multiplicity of buttons in black and white and colour. It tells tales of a huge variety of the button's forms and functions, its sometimes uncompromising glamour, its stronghold in fashion and literature, its place in the visual arts, its association with crime and death, its tender call to nostalgia and the sentimental. There have been works addressed to the button collector and general cultural histories. On the Button links the two, revealing why we are so attracted to buttons, and how they punch way above their weight.

Fashion in the Edwardian period underwent some quite revolutionary changes. The delicately coloured, flower-and-lace-trimmed trailing gowns and elaborate hairstyles worn by tightly corseted fashionable ladies in the early years of Edward VII's reign would transform into the boldly coloured, dramatically stylized Eastern-inspired kimono wraps, slender hobble skirts, ankle-skimming tunic dresses and turbans of 1914 on the eve of the First World War. This book presents the story of women's and men's dress through this exciting period, and is a fascinating addition to the bestselling Shire fashion list that already includes Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen and Fashion in the Time of the Great Gatsby.

Who has not, well arranged in a cupboard, well folded, or under cover, a garment emblematic of its history: the one that we do not want to get rid of! Often abondoned with regret, we dream of postponing it. But its usury or its size disuades us. Souvenir of trave, timeless but worn, imprinted by the memory of a loved one, to classical but percisely our size, too strict also, chine in a frippe, we keep it intact and it moves with us! The seven workshops in this book explain how to redo the patterns of these garments without undoing them in order to preserve them. You will find pullover, pants, shirt and corsage but also dress and jackets. Using a variety of very simple techniques, you will be able to extract a pattern that you can transform to your taste to give your new garment a look that will only belong to you! Passionate about clothes, fabrics and cutting techniques in that it reveals the history of the wearer, Claire Wargnier has been dreaming of this work for a long time in order to allow everyone to redo a garment full of emotion and of experience. It was based on the technicality of Nathalie Coppin, professor of model CAD at ESMOD Paris, able to respond to the technique of patronage explained step by step in this book.

These styles will ring a bell not only with America's baby-boomers, but also with current fashion trend watchers. Today's interest in retro fashions makes this book as current as it would have been more than thirty years ago, but the quality is much better. Using today's technology, it presents more than 400 color photographs of clothing styles for men, women, and children culled from 1964-67 Sears Catalogs. Images of mohair sweaters, cardigan sets, bloomer playsuits, madras jackets, checked gingham shifts with matching triangle scarves, ruffled rib-tickler tops and capri pants, Bermuda collars, wraparound skirts, maternity wear, and even days-of-the-week panties all combine to give us a look into what the average American was wearing, along with descriptions and original prices. Current prices are listed for some of the items for those interested in collectible vintage clothing from the era.

Pattern Cutting for Menswear is a comprehensive guide to cutting patterns, from basic skills to advanced techniques. With over twenty complete patterns, including new jacket and trouser styles, this revised edition features all the elements that made the first edition so successful, as well as additional sections on the leg stride relationship in the development of certain trouser styles, fabric properties and their effect on cut and drape, fitting techniques for structured jackets, and the latest information on pattern CAD-based technologies. The step-by-step approach, complete with scaled diagrams and technical flats, fashion illustrations and photographs of toiles, enables the reader to cut patterns with confidence.

Learn how to make and embellish six fabulous felt hats. 'A chic hat elevates any outfit and always draws compliments. I treasure my unique Bobbi Heath hat and now, thanks to her book, I can create my own from scratch at home. Bobbi is a natural teacher, she provides clear and easy-to-follow instructions and makes millinery fun.' - Susanna Brown - Curator, Victoria and Albert Museum A stunning felt hat is the perfect accessory for any occasion - from an everyday addition to your winter wardrobe to a head-turning statement piece for a special occasion. In this practical and informative guide, expert milliner Bobbi Heath shows you how to make felt hats in six different styles to perfectly complement any outfit, including a fabulous floppy hat, cloche, bucket, pill box, cap and button. Bobbi starts with the basics of how to measure your head, then talks you through the secrets of stiffening the felt, using steam to mould your fabric, and blocking. Learn invaluable stitching and edging techniques, then have fun experimenting with trimmings to make your hat unique. With a foreword by Dillion Wallwork, a London hat designer and prominent milliner for over 30 years, this practical book will appeal to all hat lovers and anyone looking for an easy introduction to the art of millinery.

This volume presents a collection of the most recent knowledge on the relationship between gender and fashion in historical and contemporary contexts. Through fourteen essays divided into three segments - how dress creates, disrupts and transcends gender - the chapters investigate gender issues through the lens of fashion. Crossing Gender Boundaries first examines how clothing has been, and continues to be, used to create and maintain the binary gender division that has come to permeate Western and westernized cultures. Next, it explores how dress can be used to contest and subvert binary gender expectations, before a final section that considers the meaning of gender and how dress can transcend it, focusing on unisex and genderless clothing. The essays consider how fashion can both constrict and free gender expression, explore the ways dress and gender are products of one other and illuminate the construction of gender through social norms. Readers will find that through analysis of the relationship between gender and fashion, they gain a better understanding of the world around them.

We know that way we dress says a lot about us. It's drilled into us by our parents as children, as adults throughout our working lives, and eternally from the culture surrounding us. Our dress tells the outside world of the culture and era we come from to our social status within that culture. Our dress can be telling of our political views, religious beliefs, sexuality and countless other identifying traits that we can keep hidden or show to the world by our choice of what to wear when heading venturing out. This was absolutely true, famously so, in the Victorian Era in which men and women alike wore their status on their often lavish, embellished sleeves. In her new book, Dr. Madeleine Seyes explores Victorian culture through the lens of fashion in her new book, Double Threads: Fashion and Victorian Popular Literature, which sits at the intersection of the fields of Victorian literary studies, dress and material cultural studies, feminist literary criticism, and gender and sexuality studies.

"Material Strategies" brings together scholars from different disciplines to explore what dress and textiles can tell us about gender history.
Broad in scope - covers women, men, social groupings and nations from the sixteenth to the twentieth century.
Rich in detail - incorporates illustrations that provide visual evidence for gendered strategies of dress.
Combines perspectives from design and textile history, business history, cultural anthropology, social history, art history and cultural history.
Considers 'material strategies' in relation to production and consumption, the public and the private, the body and sexuality, and national identity.
Written in a jargon-free style, making it accessible to readers from a wide range of backgrounds.

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, there was a tubercular 'moment' in which perceptions of the consumptive disease became inextricably tied to contemporary concepts of beauty, playing out in the clothing fashions of the day. With the ravages of the illness widely regarded as conferring beauty on the sufferer, it became commonplace to regard tuberculosis as a positive affliction, one to be emulated in both beauty practices and dress. While medical writers of the time believed that the fashionable way of life of many women actually rendered them susceptible to the disease, Carolyn A. Day investigates the deliberate and widespread flouting of admonitions against these fashion practices in the pursuit of beauty. Through an exploration of contemporary social trends and medical advice revealed in medical writing, literature and personal papers, Consumptive Chic uncovers the intimate relationship between fashionable women's clothing, and medical understandings of the illness. Illustrated with over 40 full color fashion plates, caricatures, medical images, and photographs of original garments, this is a compelling story of the intimate relationship between the body, beauty, and disease - and the rise of 'tubercular chic'.

A comprehensive and beautifully illustrated examination of dress, clothing, fashion, and sewing in the Regency seen through the lens of Jane Austen's life and writings This lively book reveals the clothing and fashion of the world depicted in Jane Austen's beloved books, focusing on the long Regency between the years 1795 and 1825. During this period, accelerated change saw Britain's turbulent entry into the modern age, and clothing reflected these transformations. Starting with the intimate perspective of clothing the self, Dress in the Age of Jane Austen moves outward through the social and cultural spheres of home, village, countryside, and cities, and into the wider national and global realms, exploring the varied ways people dressed to inhabit these environments. Jane Austen's famously observant fictional writings, as well as her letters, provide the entry point for examining the Regency age's rich complexity of fashion, dress, and textiles for men and women in their contemporary contexts. Lavishly illustrated with paintings, drawings, historic garments, and fashion plates-including many previously unpublished images-this authoritative yet accessible book will help readers visualize the external selves of Austen's immortal characters as clearly as she wrote of their internal ones. The result is an enhanced understanding of Austen's work and time, and also of the history of one of Britain's most distinctive fashion eras.

Most take for granted that a pair of jeans is not considered complete without patches, rivets, buttons, and other trims. The existence of such design elements is not questioned because they are seen as the standard. Nick Williams's book is exclusively dedicated to denim branding and deconstructs every element that goes into branding a pair of jeans. These elements are a jeans' identity, its source code, a marker from which to discover the jean's provenance. Through beautiful and inspirational photography, this book tells the fascinating and sometimes surprising history of denim branding from the 1870s to current day. Primary source materials for this book come from the historical archive departments of Levi Strauss & Co., Lee Jeans, Wrangler, Carhartt, and Cone Mills, as well as some of the best contemporary denim brands of today, including Rogue Territory, Dawson Denim, Denham, Kings of Indigo, Endrime, Evisu, Eat Dust, Butcher of Blue, and Tellason.