A comprehensive study of walking canes from around the world, dating from the distant past to the modern-day. The book presents a historical context on both practical and ceremonial usage. At the same time, specially shot pictures showcase the celebrated A&D Collection of canes, while enlightening prose demonstrates the cane's enduring relevance to society. More than just a mobility aid, the cane has held numerous offices of significance. From the staff of the legendary Monkey King in the classic Chinese Journey to the West, or the stylised crosiers carried by high-ranking prelates from the Roman Catholic church, to the truncheon wielded by Mr Punch in puppet shows, canes are embedded in the culture of almost every country around the globe. Roving the map with one hand and thumbing through history books with the other, A Virtual History of Walking Canes and Sticks seeks not only to introduce the collector to the diverse wealth of canes available but also to entertain the casual reader. Intermingled with over 800 full-colour pictures are descriptions of gadget canes for tradesmen, squirting canes for pranksters, and glamorous Art Nouveau canes for the dapper gentlemen of the '20s. Informative and meticulously researched, this book paves an accessible route into a niche subject while paying homage to our ongoing relationship with canes. This story stretches back as far as history itself.

This book provides a sweeping study of the clothing of the 1930s. Garments of all kinds, from the intimate to the most formal, the flamboyant to the practical, for women, men and children, are displayed and discussed in detail. Accessories including jewelry, hats, and handbags are also explored. Even uniforms used for work, band, and cheerleading are found in this inclusive work. More than 600 color photographs spread the 1930s fashion world out before you. An historical overview explains the turbulent 1930s and the economic depression that so affected every aspect of daily life. Values for the garments and accessories are found in the captions. Finally, a glossary, bibliography, and index round out this fascinating presentation. Designers, historians, and fashion-conscious consumers will find this an indespensible reference.

Fashioning James Bond is the first book to study the costumes and fashions of the James Bond movie franchise, from Sean Connery in 1962's Dr No to Daniel Craig in Spectre (2015). Llewella Chapman draws on original archival research, close analysis of the costumes and fashion brands featured in the Bond films, interviews with families of tailors and shirt-makers who assisted in creating the 'look' of James Bond, and considers marketing strategies for the films and tie-in merchandise that promoted the idea of an aspirational 'James Bond lifestyle'. Addressing each Bond film in turn, Chapman questions why costumes are an important tool for analysing and evaluating film, both in terms of the development of gender and identity in the James Bond film franchise in relation to character, and how it evokes the desire in audiences to become part of a specific lifestyle construct through the wearing of fashions as seen on screen. She researches the agency of the costume department, director, producer and actor in creating the look and characterisation of James Bond, the villains, the Bond girls and the henchmen who inhibit the world of 007. Alongside this, she analyses trends and their impact on the Bond films, how the different costume designers have individually and creatively approached costuming them, and how the costumes were designed and developed from novel to script and screen. In doing so, this book contributes to the emerging critical literature surrounding the combined areas of film, fashion, gender and James Bond.

Benjamin on Fashion reconstructs and redefines Walter Benjamin's complex, fragmentary and yet influential fashion theory that he developed in the Arcades Project (1927-1940) and beyond, while situating it within the environment from which it emerged - 1930s Parisian couture. In this insightful new book, Philipp Ekardt brings Benjamin into discussion with a number of important, but frequently overlooked sources. Amongst many others, these include the German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced him to the contemporary fashion scene; Georg Simmel's fashion sociology; Henri Focillon's morphological art history; designs by Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet; films by L'Herbier and others starring Mae West; and the photography of George Hoyningen-Huene and Man Ray. In doing so, Ekardt demonstrates how fashion and silhouettes became grounded in sex; how an ideal of the elegant animation of matter was pitted against the concept of an obdurate fashion form; and how Benjamin's idea of 'fashion's tiger's leap into the past' paralleled the return of 1930s couture to the depths of (fashion) history. The use of such relevant sources makes this crucial for understanding Benjamin both as a thinker and a cultural theorist.

100 Years of Fashion documents in pictures the most exciting and diverse period in fashion: from 1900 to today, covering high society, uniforms, sportswear, streetwear and couture. It will appeal to everyone with an interest in fashion as well as students. The last hundred or so years bore witness to the transformation of women's fashion. The restrictive corsetry of the early twentieth century gave way to looser styles such as those made fashionable by French fashion designer Paul Poiret. As women's lives changed dramatically under the shadow of two World Wars, so the style of female dress was altered beyond recognition. From home dressmaking to couture, from rationing to 'The New Look', from the birth of the teenager to mass manufacture, from high society to celebrity culture. Over 400 photographs and illustrations, many published for the first time, tell the stylish story of a fashion revolution. This is the third in Cally Blackman's series of fashion titles, previously publishing 100 Years of Fashion Illustration and 100 Years of Menswear with Laurence King Publishing. As featured in The Cut Magazine "If you need a book with visual representation of the history of fashion this one is one of the best" - Goodreads reader "Wonderfully illustrated history of fashion from the early 1900's to now. Discusses styles, materials, trends and famous icons of style. Comprehensive and a great read." - Amazon review

Cartier: The Story Behind the Style is a beautifully illustrated, handbag-sized visual history of one of the world's most iconic brands. From the brand's inception in Paris in 1847, Cartier has been the go-to jeweller for the world's most stylish set. Filled with photographs and information from the company's 175 years, go behind the scenes to discover the story of how Cartier became synonymous with luxury. Chart the rise of the famous jeweller and watchmaker from humble beginnings in 19th-century Paris to the slick empire it is today. Discover how the ambitious Cartier family broke fresh ground in design, enchanted maharajas and presidents, struck up strategic creative partnerships, and became a household name with iconic designs such as the Panthere, Tank and Love bracelet. Cartier: The Story Behind the Style is the perfect book for any fashion or jewellery lover. Also available, Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style

From the 1920s to the 1960s, Rene Hubert (1895-1976) belonged to the creme de la creme of costume designers. He designed costumes for stars such as Tallulah Bankhead, Ingrid Bergman, Marlon Brando, Yul Brynner, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, and Marilyn Monroe in one of her first roles. Shirley Temple danced the hula in the film Curly Top wearing a grass skirt ensemble designed by Hubert; he was especially closely associated with Gloria Swanson, who encouraged him to relocate to Los Angeles when she met him in Paris in 1924. Hubert consented, and soon found himself working with directors Rene Clair, Alfred Hitchcock and Otto Preminger, elevating their stars with his flair for opulent color and elegant lines. Hubert's international reputation helped him to win commissions in his native Switzerland, most notably for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939, for Swissair uniforms and aircraft interiors, and for various theaters and textile companies. This richly illustrated publication compiles sketches, costume photography, stage photos and film stills of Hubert's work. Experts from both sides of the Atlantic reflect on his multifaceted oeuvre at his numerous workplaces in Switzerland, Europe and the US. Excerpts from his unpublished memoirs provide a personal view of his life and the glamor of the era.

In this timely book, three noted fashion historians examine the global transformations in the fashion industry today, and identify the challenges of the future. Since the dawn of designer fashion at the beginning of the 20th century, the role and position of the designer has drastically changed. This book addresses how the interpretation of creativity, authorship, craft, and innovation have evolved in this new context, and asks what role designers play in a globalised and digitised fashion world.

On January 21, 1971, couturier Yves Saint Laurent presented his Spring-Summer haute couture collection. Inspired by the garments of the war years, the collection included short dresses, platform shoes, square shoulders, and exaggerated makeup. The show caused an outrage among the public, the critics, and the press alike, earning it the title of "Paris's ugliest collection." Nevertheless, the haute couture designs of the runway made their way to the boulevards, giving full sway to the "retro" trend that quickly conquered the streets. Yves Saint Laurent: The Scandal Collection, 1971 offers a behind-the-scenes look at the influential collection that "drew fire in the fashion world" from the collection's inspiration to the press coverage that followed. Beautifully illustrated and documented with well-researched essays, this book is enriched with personal interviews and archival photographs of the show, the models, the designs, and the textile and print samples, as well as sketches and international press clippings.

Despite the growing demand for design strategies to reduce our petroleum use, no one has yet brought together the lessons of the world's leading post-petroleum designers into a single resource. Post-Petroleum Design brings them together for the first time. Readers will be introduced to the most current, innovative, plastic-and petroleum-free products and projects in industrial design, architecture, transportation, electronics, apparel and more. Post-Petroleum Design explores firsthand the client and consumer motivations behind the demand, and shares the case studies, principles, best practices, risks and opportunities of the world's leading post-petroleum design experts who are already meeting that demand. It introduces 40 inspiring individuals from across the globe; people like Eben Bayer, the American innovator whose company, Ecovative, is growing houses from mushrooms; Mohammed Bah Abba, whose Zeer Pot is helping families keep produce fresh in the sweltering Nigerian summer without electricity; and the engineers at Mercedes-Benz Advanced Design Studios whose Biome car evolves from genetically engineered DNA. Post-Petroleum Design gives design professionals the information they need to research, evaluate, and select materials, technologies and design strategies that meet the growing demand for sustainable design, plastic-free materials and process energy conservation. Designer profiles, studies, statistics and many colour illustrations all highlight the work-some of the best design work to be found anywhere, and showcased here for the first time.

Textiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.

Featuring detailed analyses of clothing culture in 17th-century provincial Sussex, this original study draws on previously unexploited sources to create an intimate and nuanced portrait of people and their clothes. An introductory chapter uses 17th-century literature to identify and explore contemporary ideas about clothing, the individual and society, as well as the relationship between London and the provinces and the causes and consequences of conspicuous clothing consumption. Subsequent chapters look at the production, distribution and acquisition of clothing in Sussex and the participation of consumers in these processes; the role of London as a centre of fashionable clothing consumption and the experience of wealthier consumers in shopping there; the clothing worn by individual men, women and older children of the 'middle' and 'better' sort and the extent to which they participated in contemporary, London-driven, fashion culture. A final chapter examines the clothing worn by the poor, including vagrants, parish paupers and the 'labouring' poor. With over 40 images Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England offers a new window onto early modern experiences of clothing.

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. This sixth volume of Medieval Clothing and Textiles ranges widely, as ever, across England and Europe. It presents two groundbreaking articles in novel areas of textile and dress scholarship: an introduction to a previouslyunexamined class of embroidery (decorative manuscript repair), and an English-language overview of scholarly research on historical dress in Latvia. Among the other topics considered in the volume are two very different listingsof clothing items from medieval Germany: an invented lexicon by the mystic Hildegard of Bingen, and an accounting of specific real garments worn by ordinary people and donated to finance the building of Strasbourg Cathedral. Papers also consider the mercantile world of clothing in medieval London: one gathers insight on dealers of secondhand clothing from the evidence of historical documents, while the other examines the social rise of the mercers in the light of their representation in literature, and their connections to the literary world. Further articles consider luxurious dress accessories with both worldly and spiritual significance, and analyse a French manual for Englishhousewives, illuminating the often-overlooked topic of home linen production. Contributors: Hilary Davidson, Ieva Pigozne, Valerie L. Garver, Christine Sciacca, Sarah L. Higley, William Sayers, Roger A. Ladd, Kate KelseyStaples, Charlotte A. Stanford

Born in the Brazilian countryside, and nearly six feet tall by the age of 14, Gisele Bundchen grew from humble roots into the most successful supermodel in the world. This book celebrates her 20-year milestone in the industry with a unique and spectacular collection of jaw-dropping glamour and intimate, personal insights. Gisele was just 18 when she made her breakthrough in the S/S 1998 ready-to-wear "Rain" show of Alexander McQueen, who chose "The Body" thanks to her ability to walk in towering heels on a slippery runway. The same year, Gisele secured her first British Vogue cover, and swiftly became the most in-demand cover girl of her generation. The following year, she was chosen for the cover of American Vogue, shot by Steven Meisel, and lauded as "the return of the sexy model" with her bronzed, athletic beauty defying late-'90s grunge. Since then, Gisele has appeared on more than 1,000 covers around the globe, in approximately 450 fashion shows, and in multinational campaigns for the biggest fashion and beauty brands. With more than 300 photographs, this book is curated and art directed by Giovanni Bianco. From Gisele's legendary nude portrait by Irving Penn, chosen as the book's cover, to iconic shots from such industry luminaries as Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh, David LaChapelle, Juergen Teller, Inez & Vinoodh, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, and Corinne Day, it is a unique artistic presentation of the most famous Brazilian export together with Pele and Senna and the highest-earning model in the world. The breathtaking image collection is accompanied by an introduction by Steven Meisel and tributes from Gisele's closest friends, family, and fashion leaders, who shed light on how and why she has become one of the greatest models of all time. First published as a limited edition-now available in a popular TASCHEN edition! Gisele is donating all her proceeds from the book to charity.

Here is a look at some typical and some extraordinary clothing of mid-century. Whether by well-known or unrecognized designers, all are well-designed and well-constructed. Each of the nearly 500 photographs was taken outdoors against a landscape showing the season. With close-ups of fabrics and labels, detailed captions, a fashion timeline with historic context, and a value guide, this book will be an exciting addition to any library and a must for anyone interested in great fashion design and/or the period.

Sleek. Chic. Notoriously guarded. Welcome to the secret world of Gabrielle Chanel.

The story of Chanel begins with an abandoned child, as lost as a girl in a dark fairy tale. Unveiling remarkable new details about Gabrielle Chanel's early years in a convent orphanage and her flight into unconventional adulthood, Justine Picardie explores what lies beneath the glossy surface of a mythic fashion icon.

Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. An authoritative account, based on personal observations and interviews with Chanel's last surviving friends, employees and relatives, it also unravels her coded language and symbols, and traces the influence of her formative years on her legendary style.

Feared and revered by the rest of the fashion industry, Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of eighty-seven, but her legacy lives on. Drawing on unprecedented research, Justine Picardie brings her fascinating, enigmatic subject out of hiding and uncovers the consequences of what Chanel covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and myth in a story that reveals the true heart of fashion.

Jermyn Street in St James's, London, has been the Mecca of fine British shirtmaking for more than a century. Patrons have included Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, Roger Moore, the Beatles, Warren Beatty, Pierce Brosnan, the Prince of Wales, Sir Michael Caine and Ronald Reagan. Between them, these shirtmaking artisans have styled that most debonair of onscreen heroes, James Bond. Indeed, the Jermyn Street shirt is the ultimate in entry-level luxury menswear. For many years seen as a stuffy and elitist institution, the advent of Instagram has seen the doors to the world's finest shirtmakers blown open as tailoring enthusiasts come together to share their passion. The Jermyn Street Shirt includes a wealth of sartorial showbusiness anecdotes as well as style tips from some of the big screen's most dapper stars. With unique access to many of the makers, including Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key and Budd, Jonathan Sothcott presents an expertly curated pictorial treasure trove of previously unseen ephemera, including celebrity shirt patterns and samples.

'Each shoot is a total love letter to an object from the V&A, sometimes several objects. My relationship to objects is like falling in love with someone. It relates to how we interact as people, how you become best friends with someone. It's a search for a new friend...' TIM WALKER Published to accompany the V&A's mesmerizing exhibition Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, this book is a journey through the creative mind of one of the world's most inventive photographers. It presents over 100 compelling photographs, from ten magical photoshoots inspired by objects from the V&A's enormous and eclectic collection. Featuring conversations between the set designers, stylists, hair and make-up artists, models and muses who bring Walker's imagination to life, it includes contributions by Jack Appleyard, Zoe Bedeaux, Terry Bloxham, Edie Campbell, Gwendoline Christie, Josephine Cowell, James Crewe, Malcolm Edwards, Karen Elson, Katy England, Edward Enninful OBE, Amanda Harlech, Shona Heath, Hungry/Johannes Jaruraak, Ibrahim Kamara, Kate Phelan, James Spencer, Jerry Stafford, Tilda Swinton and Gareth Wrighton. Previously unpublished behind-the-scenes imagery and preliminary sketches combine to reveal Walker's extraordinary creative process, from his detailed research in the labyrinth of storerooms and galleries at the V&A, to his spectacular final pictures.

Images are everywhere. They are displayed in streets. They are leafed through in magazines. They jump out of our screens. And what we most remember about them is the emotion they rouse. The work of photo stylists is still not widely known. Yet this work is vital to conveying the right fashion message. This publication takes you into the anteroom of professions in fashion to discover the work behind the scenes of photo creation: preliminary style drafts, photo studios and casting. It is also a chance to dive into the basics of framing and photography. Theories, focus points, tutorials and interviews with professionals will help you better contemplate the job of photo stylist.

Fantastic fashion that won't cost you the earth. What is a 'fashion footprint'? What's the problem with fast fashion? And is there any alternative to it? This inspirational guide is your sustainable sourcebook full of activities and practical tips on how you can cut ties with unethical fashion practices and form new fashion habits that work for you - all without compromising your signature style! Author Laura Strutt will help readers identify the approach that will work best for them - are you a seasonal clothes swapper or would you rather get crafty? Covering topics such as motivational mindset changes, trusted brands to try, buying and selling secondhand clothes, inspiration for upcycles, mending techniques and questions to ask companies before you shop, this is the ultimate book for the closet-curious who want to create a wardrobe that doesn't cost the Earth.

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel is an icon of fashion, and can lay claim to having invented the look of the 20th century. At the height of the Belle Epoque, she stripped women of their corsets and feathers, bobbed their hair, put them in bathing suits and sent them out to get tanned in the sun. She introduced the little black dress; trousers for women; costume jewelry; the exquisitely comfortable suit that became her trademark. Early in the Roaring Twenties, Chanel made the first ever couture perfume - No. 5 - presenting it in the famous little square-cut flagon that, inspired by Picasso and Cubism, became the arch symbol of the Art Deco style. No. 5 remains the most popular scent ever created. This volume, published to accompany a landmark exhibition in Paris, traces the birth and evolution of Chanel's timeless style. Specially commissioned photographs by Julien T. Hamon showcase the clothing, while essays by fashion historians illuminate a period, an event or a theme. Rare archival documents, including portraits of Gabrielle Chanel herself, round out the book.

Like Japanese knitting before it, Japanese-style crochet is getting ready to sweep the globe! Japanese Wonder Crochet is the first major Japanese crochet book to be translated into English. It introduces crafters outside Japan to the wonderful crochet techniques and charts that are so popular within the country. The book shows a creative approach to classic crochet stitches such as Aran, herringbone, Bavarian, waffle, crocodile, reversible crochet, and many more. In Japan, crochet work is often added to knitted garments; while you may choose to incorporate these techniques into your own knitting projects, Japanese crochet is a great pleasure in and of itself. In this book, a swatch pattern is provided for each stitch which helps crocheters practice the mechanics of the stitch before applying them to larger projects. The personal and home accessory projects included provide something for every level of time commitment from potholders and cup cosies to tote bags and blankets. More than 25 exciting projects are included: A patchwork throw; A reversible cowl; Bags in Bavarian, crocodile, Aran stitches and more; Totes in herringbone and rib stitches; A vintage bag and floral brooch in bullion stitch; A tea cosy, mittens, a shawl; And so much more!. An extensive introduction by Japanese knitting and crochet expert Gayle Roehm explains the stitch charts as well as the differences and similarities between Japanese and Western styles of crochet. A guide to stitch symbols and extensive lessons provide visual guidance. With Japanese Wonder Crochet and a little practice, crocheters and Japanese-style knitters can open up many new horizons using the wonderful patterns that so many Westerners have already fallen in love with.

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches - including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.

Praise for the previous edition: "[A] fascinating book." John Thackara, Doors of Perception "Provides the foundations for a radical new perspective." Ethical Pulse "At last a book that dispels the idea that fashion is only interested in trend-driven fluff: not only does it have a brain, but it could be a sustainable one." Lucy Siegle, Crafts Magazine Fully revised and updated, the second edition of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys continues to define the field of design in fashion and textiles. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each chapter is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design. Including a new preface, updated content and a new conclusion reflecting and critiquing developments in the field, as well as discussing future developments, the second edition promises to provide further impetus for future change, sealing Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys as the must-buy book for fashion and textiles professionals and students interested in sustainability.