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Books > Arts & Architecture > Industrial / commercial art & design > Fashion design
In the turbulent political and social landscape of Revolutionary France, dress played a major role in defining and displaying new identities. What people wore was, in fact, a vital symbol of their allegiances and beliefs. Drawing on a wide range of documentary and visual sources, this book offers a vivid picture of the highly charged politics of Revolutionary appearances. The author explores the dynamic complexity of the new socio-political world, where the identification of who stood for what was such an urgent, if vexed, issue: where identical items of dress could stand for opposing political ideologies, where a variety of institutions - from local societies to the national assembly - tried to define the meanings associated with clothing, and where the clothes a person wore could seal their fate. Tracing the stories surrounding the liberty cap, the different manifestations of official dress, the tricolore cockade and the sans-culotte provides a new and exciting insight into the complexities and uncertainties that made up life in Revolutionary France and the political culture that it created.
Beginning in the 16th century, the golden age of European navigation brought about the flowering of an abundant textile trade, spurred by Western tastes for Eastern spices. While previous studies have focused on this story from the viewpoint of trade, Interwoven Globe is the first book to explore it as a history of design - and to approach it with from a truly universal perspective. Fascinating and richly illustrated texts explore the inter-relationship of textiles, commerce and taste from the Age of Discovery to the 19th century, and 120 works from around the globe are discussed in detail. From India and its renowned, ancient mastery of dyed-and-painted cotton goods to the sumptuous silks of Japan and China, Turkey and Iran, the paths of influence are traced westward to Europe and the Americas. Essential to this exchange was the trade in highly valued natural dyes and dye products, underscoring the impact of global exploration on the aesthetics and techniques used to produce textiles. Shaped by an emerging worldwide visual culture, the resulting fashion for the exotic' in textiles, as well as other goods and art forms, gave rise to what can be called the first global style.
While the story of women's liberation has often been framed by the growing acceptance of pants over the twentieth century, the most important and influential female fashions of the era featured skirts. Suffragists and soldiers marched in skirts; the heroines of the Civil Rights Movement took a stand in skirts. Frida Kahlo and Georgia O'Keeffe revolutionized modern art and Marie Curie won two Nobel Prizes in skirts. When NASA put a man on the moon, "the computer wore a skirt," in the words of one of those 'computers', mathematician Katherine G. Johnson. As women made strides towards equality in the voting booth, the workforce, and the world at large, their wardrobes evolved with them. They did not need to 'wear the pants' to be powerful or progressive; the dress itself became modern as designers like Mariano Fortuny, Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, and Diane von Furstenberg redefined femininity for a new era. Skirts looks at the history of twentieth-century womenswear through the lens of game-changing styles like the Little Black Dress and the Bar Suit, as well as more obscure innovations like the Taxi dress or the Popover dress, which came with a matching potholder. These influential garments illuminate the times in which they were first worn - and the women who wore them - while continuing to shape contemporary fashion and even opening the door for a genderfluid future of skirts. At once an authoritative work of history and a delightfully entertaining romp through decades of fashion, Skirts charts the changing fortunes, freedoms, and aspirations of women themselves.
Galliano: Spectacular Fashion is the first detailed guide to the work of one of fashion's greatest talents. Though the designer's otherwise glittering career has been punctured by years out of the limelight, his catalogue of work remains astonishing. Written by internationally renowned fashion expert Kerry Taylor, this beautifully illustrated and meticulously researched book looks in depth at John Galliano's collections from his 1984 graduate show at Saint Martins to his triumphant renaissance at Maison Margiela in 2015. With never-before-seen images of rare designs from private couture archives, close ups revealing the intricacies of garments, and iconic runway shots showing the designer's most innovative creations in motion, this visually rich book examines his revolutionary designs in unprecedented depth. In addition, original interviews with the designer as well as the people who worked closely with him throughout his career shed new light on both the clothes and the context in which they were created. A must-have for fashion lovers, collectors and researchers alike, Galliano: Spectacular Fashion is the ultimate overview of the work of a design genius.
Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the 'fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.
In 1947, Christian Dior stunned the fashion world with his first collection; his 'New Look' featured designs that transformed the way women dressed. Dior continued to send shockwaves with his later shows, significantly altering the fashion landscape during the ten years of his career as a couturier. This book recounts Dior's search for the perfect line and how his unique vision of women's ideal silhouette developed. More than any designer before him, Dior embraced the dual aspects of creativity and commerce, becoming the first couturier to license his products in 1949. He became one of the most famous designers of the twentieth century, and his name still fronts one of the most successful haute couture fashion houses. As portrayed in the pages of Vogue by photographers such as Horst and Irving Penn and artists like Christian Berard, the book offers a unique insight into Dior's contribution to design, his dramatic impact on the landscape of 40s and 50s fashion and his personal legacy. Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.
Filled with stunning photographs, this fascinating tribute illustrates and illuminates Hepburn's life. From her early years as an ingenue to her status as an international icon of elegance, it reveals how her unique beauty made her a dream subject for designers and photographers alike. Featuring her collaborations with Givenchy, and stills from the sets of her most famous Hollywood films, the Little Book of Audrey Hepburn takes the reader on a journey through the actress's career and reveals just how powerfully her image resonates across the globe - even so long after her death.
An unprecedented and intimate behind-the-scenes look at London designer fashion over the last fifteen years, edited by Tania Fares and Sarah Mower and profiling 50 leading London fashion designers, from Paul Smith and Stella McCartney to Erdem and Simone Rocha. London has long been a fashion-world capital, and the past fifteen years have been an especially fertile period in its centuries-long history of setting trends. This stunning book is an all-access pass into the world of designer fashion - an exclusive behind-the-scenes studio tour that calls in on fifty of the city's leading design talents - London-based global superstars - all of whom open up about their practice and philosophy, and share a wealth of images from their private collections.
Denim is a symbol of cultural globalisation. Democratic, versatile, resistant to the passing of time and to changing tastes and styles, it embodies rebellion and standardisation at the same time. Stefano Chassai, an established designer on the international scene, searches for new variations of the iconic blue fabric in the sphere of men's wardrobe: mixed with other materials and ennobled with unusual techniques, between craftsmanship and new technologies, denim leaves the casual universe to enter the field of tailoring, as the raw material for a new concept of elegance. The result is Blue Tailoring, the story of an ideal collection, a creative laboratory and manifesto of the stylist's poetics. With the collaboration of over 30 Italian companies, Stefano Chiassai tells his original interpretation of the most widespread fabric on the planet. The book is divided into 10 chapters in which the designer tackles different design methods and combinations of materials, exploring new concepts of form. It also includes an interview by Claudio Marenco Mores and critical texts by Paola Maddaluno, Bruno Casini, Antonio Mancinelli and Claudio Marenco Mores. Text in English and Italian.
The first book to document Los Angeles's remarkable explosion onto the global fashion scene New York, London, Milan, Paris ... and now, Los Angeles. Thanks to its unique blend of cultural influences and artistic industry, the City of Angels has earned its place alongside these traditional creative capitals and Fashion in LA goes beyond the red carpet to profile more than 40 designers instrumental to its success. It's a who's-who of talent, a true insider's guide to the men and women who have put twenty-first century Los Angeles on the world’s fashion map.
Shows how cinematic treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of postwar German women. This book steers attention toward two key aspects of German culture - film and fashion - that shared similar trajectories and multiple connections, looking at them not only in the immediate postwar years but as far back as 1939. They formed spectacular sites of the postwar recovery processes in both East and West Germany. Viewed against the background of the abundant fashion discourses in the Berlin-based press, the films discussed include classics such as The Murderers Are among Us, Street Acquaintance, and Destinies of Women as well as neglected works such as And the Heavens above Us, Martina, Modell Bianka, and Ingrid. These films' treatments of fashion during times of crisis offer subtle reflections on the everyday lives, desires, careers, and self-perceptions of the women who made up a large majority of the postwar public. Costume - in films produced both by DEFA and by West German studios - is a productive site to explore the intersections between realism and escapism. With its focus on costumes within the context of the films' production, distribution, and reception, this book opens up wider discussions about the role of the costume designer, the ways film costumes can be read as intertexts, and the impact on audiences' behaviors and looks. The book reveals multiple connections between film and fashion, both across the temporal dividing line of 1945 and the Cold War split between East and West. Mila Ganeva is Department Chair and Professor of German at Miami University, Oxford, Ohio.
The ultimate introduction to art and culture presents 3,000 years of fashion in one gorgeous coffee table book. This is the definitive visual guide to everything ever worn. Fashion: The Definitive Visual Guide brings you a grand gallery of more than 3,000 years of fashion history. From simple to sophisticated, elegant to excessive, what we wear defines who we are. Discover all you need to know about the evolution of costume and dress from different eras in this all-encompassing guide to fashion. Explore the pages of this curated coffee table book, which offers:
The 6 core chapters are structured chronologically,so there's something for everyone to explore, learn and love. Starting with Medieval Romance and Trade 600-1449, right the way up until 1890 and onwards with The Designer Decades. Now fully revised and updated, this stylish book about fashion includes recent subjects of interest, including ethical fashion, diversity in fashion and shaping the body. The illustrated glossary of technical terms and an informative index help make this page-turning fashion book an indispensable work of reference for anyone with an interest in fashion who wants to gain a broader knowledge of the subject, making Fashion a must-have for your book-shelf.
The finishing touches applied to a garment can take it from the realms of the ordinary to the heights of luxury. Creating Couture Embellishment offers a step-by-step guide to manipulating fabric and making and applying a rich variety of embellishments. Chapters cover fabric-manipulation techniques of pleating, quilting, tucking, ruffling, shirring and smocking, as well as the fabrication and application of feathers, beading, embroidery, flowers, decorative ribbons and bows, bias bindings and piping, fringe, braids and passementerie. The heirloom quality created by the insertion or application of lace is also explored. Featuring a visual index of every embellishment in the book that is designed to offer inspiration as well as showcasing the myriad of choice, Creating Couture Embellishment provides a comprehensive sourcebook of ideas for the student, professional and home sewer alike.
Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume's chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism. -- .
Through 100 groundbreaking dresses, The Dress traces the past and present influences and reinterpretations in clothing design. From the Victorian crinoline to Vivienne Westwood's mini-crini of 1985, from Herve Leger's 1985 bandage dress to Christopher Kane's 2006 neon version, each landmark dress gives examples of how fashion ideas have been reborn and referenced throughout time by designers. By making connections between designers and across decades, the book allows the reader to discover the breadth of influence in this field, the magic of inspired originality from fashion designers and an overview of fashion history. From beaded and bias-cut to frou-frou to corseted, Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent, laced to bustled, each dress tells a fashion story through anecdotes and analysis, with historic and cross-cultural references, beautiful imagery, and immaculate referencing.
The Christian Lacroix Atout Coeur Round Lacquer Tray features a black, white and silver foil embellished geometric game board design adorned with a poker-faced diamond in the center. This elegant 12-inch diameter round tray has a sleek shiny black lacquer exterior with cut out handles on two sides.
Travel around the globe with Vogue's most exotic fashion, travel, and lifestyle stories Have fashion, will travel. That's the vision behind Vogue on Location, a journey in itself through the many spectacular voyages that the magazine took over the years. Spanning a century, this remarkable book includes dispatches and travel writing by journalistic icons like Jan Morris, Truman Capote, Lee Miller, Lesley Blanch, and Frances FitzGerald, as well as stunning editorials from legendary photographers like Irving Penn, Henry Clarke, Helmut Newton, Arthur Elgort, Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh, and Annie Leibovitz. With historic reportage and landmark fashion shoots in far-flung locales like India, Iran, Morocco, Bali, Vogue on Location captures important moments in both travel and fashion history. An essential addition to any Vogue lover's shelf, Vogue on Location is sure to inspire a sense of fantasy and flight.
For over 400 years the tailored suit has dominated wardrobes the world over. Its simple forms, inspired by royal, military, religious and professional clothing, have provided a functional and often elegant uniform for modern life. But whether bespoke or tailor-made, on the street or in the office, during times of celebration or of crisis, we typically take the suit for granted, ignoring its complex construction and many symbolic meanings.The Suit unpicks the story of this most familiar garment, from its emergence in western Europe at the end of the seventeenth century to today. Suit-wearing figures such as the Savile Row gentleman and the Wall Street businessman have long embodied ideas of tradition, masculinity, power and respectability, but the suit has also been used to disrupt concepts of gender and conformity. Adopted and subverted by women, artists, musicians and social revolutionaries through the decades - from dandies and Sapeurs to the Zoot Suit and Le Smoking - the suit is also a device for challenging the status quo. For all those interested in the history of menswear, this beautifully illustrated book offers new perspectives on this most mundane, and poetic, product of modern culture.
Three decades of fashion brought together in one Collection, worn as originally intended by the Collector herself, and developed over five years by established fashion and portrait photographer Frederic Aranda: this is Electric Fashion. But why is it electric? It is the story of how the Collector, Christine Suppes, blazed an indelible trail into online fashion editorial whilst developing a unique collection in the heart of Silicon Valley. Electric Fashion is essential viewing, punctuated with academic perspective, comprehensive technical references, and archival text from the collection's accompanying website, fashionlines.com. This timeless tome boasts a double vantage point; on the one hand, each garment is photographed in a studio setting to enhance critical academic understanding, whilst on the other, worn by the collector herself at locations around the world to depict the garments as they were originally intended to be worn. The finished product is a 360 degree view of fashion, from historical, cultural, and practical standpoints.
Men's jewelry has a long and fascinating history, with storied houses, famous patrons and a diverse range of modern designers. Behind each tiny piece often lies a complex narrative of patronage, personality and craftsmanship. This is the first publication dedicated solely to a neglected subject. Drawing on his expertise on men's style and insider's knowledge of the jewelry industry, men's style aficionado James Sherwood tells the story of men's relationship with jewelry and presents the contemporary artisans who keep the art alive. Through thematic chapters, works by key jewelers are profiled and richly illustrated, including pieces by Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Cartier, Boucheron and Ara Vartanian. Hundreds of exquisite photographs, many specially commissioned, of rings, cufflinks, studs, pins, slides, bracelets, chains and pendants chart changing fashions and evolving attitudes to men's jewelry over the centuries. Pieces by great craftsmen and -women and the patrons who commissioned them, from the Maharaja of Kashmir to David Bowie, are brought to life through vivid texts and contemporary and archival portraits. This sumptuous guide to sartorial elegance sets men's jewelry in its proper historical and cultural contexts, offering an unexpected resource for jewelers and a trove of inspiration for anyone who wears, gifts or simply admires men's jewelry.
Milan is the European fashion capital with one of the world's most unique luxury fashion districts where the leaders of some of the most exclusive fashion houses are still living and working today. It's the Italian city whose skyline has changed more than any, and whose fashion industry has extended to encompass the worlds of design, restaurants, bars, exhibition spaces, hotels and more. Whether you're looking for designer labels within the city's luxury fashion district, prefer to browse the city's boutiques or pick up some quality vintage at the city's vintage shops and markets, this is the guide that will tell you where to go. Split into geographical sections along with relevant maps, cultural highlights and suggestions for where to eat and drink, it places Milan as the city of fashion within the context of Italian fashion history and a city, and brings the stories of its people to life. Why did Milan become Italy's fashion capital? And what does it offer the fashion lover as a city today? |
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