What's a djibbah, how long has the old school tie been around and do yellow petticoats really repel vermin? How have social and educational changes affected the appearance of schoolchildren? This book will provide answers to these questions and more, in an engaging foray into 500 years of British school uniform history from the charity schools of the sixteenth century through the Victorian public schools to the present day. In this cross-disciplinary work, Kate Stephenson presents the first comprehensive academic study of school uniform development in Britain as well as offering an analysis of the social and institutional contexts in which this development occurred. With recent debates around the cost, necessity and religious implications of school uniform and its (re)introduction and increasingly formal appearance in many schools, this book is a timely reminder that modern ideas associated with school uniform are the result of a long history of communicating (and disguising) identity. DOI: https://doi.org/10.47788/LYYA3304

In the late nineteenth century, the United States was known internationally as a place full of gaudiness and glitter. While scholars have long assumed that this visual excess was literal, linked to the United States-utilization of sophisticated modern light and consumer technologies, Fashion Nation argues that far from being linked to technology or consumerism, the reputation of the United States as a place of glittery bodies and landscapes was rooted in early nineteenth-century British and European ethnic nationalism, and the fashion of wearing colorful ethnic costuming that was adopted as part of these movements. In this work, Sandra Tomc traces the history of the idea of America as a gauche, flashy place from its early proliferation in the 1820s and 1830s, when American flashiness was associated primarily with colorful clothes, to its fruition in late nineteenth-century mass entertainment when the notion of American visual audacity shifted from clothes to elaborate lights and technological displays. Tomc argues that in the wake of pressure in the first half of the nineteenth century to embrace racially and ethnically saturated national types, significant branches of U.S. nationalist culture developed national types distinguished by their refusal to divulge racial and ethnic affiliation. To make its case, Fashion Nation reads literature alongside an extraordinary, colorful, and largely forgotten archive of international costume books, theatrical spectacles, travelogues, and world's fair extravaganzas to show how America was textually and visually constructed for transatlantic audiences.

In The Fashion Reader, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun have selected 76 influential articles to offer insight into the critical theories and conversations that surround this huge international industry. Many of the essays are drawn from books, journals, magazines, and exhibition catalogues, bringing together new and established concepts to offer a solid grounding in the history, business and culture of fashion. Fourteen of the chapters were written expressly for this edition. For added context, each of the fifteen parts has an introduction from the editors, guiding you through the interdisciplinary world of fashion studies, and each part concludes with suggestions for further reading. This third edition has been substantially revised to highlight issues of sustainability, identity, the body, as well as global perspectives from "The Commodification of Ethnicity" to "The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing."

The twelfth edition of J.J. Pizzuto's Fabric Science provides the most current and comprehensive overview and introduction to the textile industry--from fibers and finishes to applications in fashion design, fashion business, fashion merchandising, apparel product development, textile production management, and interior design. With an increased emphasis on textile sustainability, this best-selling book continues to meet the needs of both students and professionals in the textile, fashion, and related industries. Based on their combined experience in both education and the industry, the authors provide readers with a comprehensive text about the design, structure, and application of textiles. The range of information is broad and deep, and includes basic fiber chemistry, fiber innovations, the fabrication of fabrics, quality assurance, and laws that regulate textiles; updated topics include bio-based fibers, circularity and sustainability, wearable textiles, and revised and updated chapters on fibers, yarns, non-wovens, dyeing, printing, and finishing. The authors also provide readers with information regarding textile-related trade and professional associations and career opportunities in design, production, marketing, merchandising, apparel, and home products. STUDIO Features Include: - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification - Watch videos that bring chapter topics and concepts to life Instructor Resources - Instructor's Guide with teaching suggestions, activities, lecture notes, and a guide to Swatch Kit assignments - Test Bank with over 600 multiple choice, short answer, and true or false questions - PowerPoint (R) presentations include full-color images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion

From fashion aficionados to casual wearers, this sumptuous book is the perfect companion for Birkenstock’s loyal fans on the company’s 250th anniversary.

The Birkenstock brand is adored the world over for its function-first footwear and commitment to high-quality European production. Its sandals and famous cork footbeds have filtered into countless cultures and subcultures over many decades. The rich visual history of the Birkenstock brand and the creativity it has inspired over the years is gathered here in book form for the first time.

The Book of Birkenstock provides a lush, image-led history of the company, its family origins in shoemaking and its relationship with the health and fashion industries. It also offers a peek behind the scenes into the company’s German production and world-leading design processes that form the Birkenstock footbed, appreciated by millions of wearers. Enhancing this narrative, The Book of Birkenstock is not just a publication but a premium product in itself, mirroring the brand’s dedication to excellence. It boasts beautiful printing and finishing, with a debossed cover for a tactile sense of luxury. This attention to detail ensures that each page turn is an experience in itself, inviting readers not only to engage with the content but also to appreciate the fine craftsmanship of the book.

Published in 2024, a landmark year for Birkenstock in which it celebrates its 250-year family tradition in shoemaking, this project is a testament to Birkenstock’s enduring legacy and a celebration of its continuous influence on footwear and fashion.

Rich with illustrations, this revised and updated second edition of " Dress Codes" systematically analyzes the meaning and relevance of clothing in American culture. Presented here is an up-to-date analysis of images of power and authority, gender, seduction (the sexy look, the alluring look, the glamorous look, the vulnerable look), wealth and beauty, youth and health, and leisure and political hierarchy. Taken together, the chapters offer to the student and the general reader a complete "semiotics of clothing" in a form that is highly readable, very entertaining, and thoroughly informative. The illustrations provide fascinating glimpses into the history of American fashion and clothing-along with their antecedents in Europe-as well as a fine collection of images from the more familiar world of contemporary America.Rubinstein has identified six distinct categories of dress in American society, upon which "Dress Codes" is based. "Clothing signs" were instituted by those in authority, have one meaning, indicate behavior, and are required attire (police uniforms, or the clothing of ministers and priests); "clothing symbols," on the other hand, reflect the achievement of cultural values--wealth, beauty, you and health. The wearing of clothing symbols--designer clothing or jewelry--may have several meanings; 'clothing tie-signs," which are specific types of clothing that indicate membership in a community outside mainstream culture (Hasidic, Amish, or Hare Krishna attire). They were instituted by those in authority, have one meaning, they indicate expected behavior, and are required attire; "clothing tie symbols" emanate from hopes, fears, and dreams of particular groups. They include trendy styles such as hip-hop, hippie, and gothic. Another category, "contemporary fashion," reflects consumer sentiments and the political and economic forces of the period. "Personal dress," refers to the "I" component we bring in when dressing the public self (bowtie, dramatic, or artistic attire). Many of these images have their roots in the "collective memory" of western society. Written in a lively and entertaining style, "Dress Codes "will fascinate both general readers and students interested in the history of fashion and costume, fashion design, human development, and gender studies.

Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the 'fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.

Fashion Drawing is a comprehensive, practical guide to fashion drawing for students of fashion design.This second edition features brand new illlustrations reflecting developments in pose, presentation and digital design, plus guidance on creating technical flats. * Step-by-step tutorials show how to create fashion drawings for women, men and children, and adapt them for different markets * More than 1000 illustrations depict work from leading designers and illustrators revealing a wide variety of approaches * Discover how to render fabrics, textures and effects, from faux fur and metallics to prints, woven and knitted materials * Includes an illustrated glossary of garment and fabric details and an extensive resource section

Food and Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This beautifully illustrated book featuring over 100 enticing full-color images, from fashion runways to fine art photography and period cookbooks, examines the influence of food culture through the lens of fashion over the last 250 years. It focuses on the ways that food culture has expressed itself in fashion and how these connect to broader socio-cultural change, examining how vital both have been in expressing cultural movements across centuries, and specifically exploring the role food plays in fashionable expression. With its superb selection of images, and thought-provoking and engaging discussion, Food and Fashion appeals to fashion enthusiasts who have an overlapping interest in food and food studies, including scholars and students, those who enjoy the fashion of food, and all who appreciate the visual culture of food, fashion, and art.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Hardy Amies epitomized understated British couture, emphasizing the cut of fine materials by tailored construction. Untrained in dress-making, he achieved headlines in Vogue in 1937 with his 'Panic' suit, a reconstructed design of a staple in every woman's wardrobe, wittily named to reflect current events. Evoking the glamour of pre-war London while meeting the demands of contemporary society's activities - town to country, morning to night - Amies designs drew a star-studded clientele. His war-time 'utility' designs revealed his design philosophy (and partly concealed his role as head of the Belgian Section of SOE), unveiling a needle-sharp intelligence and intuition for the changing world of fashion, his elegant execution of which was rewarded through the influential seal of approval by HM Queen Elizabeth II, as Princess Elizabeth, in 1950. The first post-war international designer to visit the USA, Amies' luxurious style produced lucrative global business opportunities, including ready-to-wear, menswear shown as couture, and wide-ranging merchandising options.

Fashion branding is more than just advertising. It helps to encourage the purchase and repurchase of consumer goods from the same company. While historically fashion branding has primarily focused on consumption and purchasing decisions, recent scholarship suggests that branding is a process that needs to be analyzed from a style, luxury, and historical pop cultural view using critical, ethnographic, individualistic, or interpretive methods.
In this collection, the contributors explore the meaning behind fashion branding in the context of the contested power relations underpinning the production, marketing, and consumption of style and fashion as part of our global culture.

The vast wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth I is legendary: in her own time some of the richly embroidered gowns were displayed with other treasures to dazzle the eyes of foreign visitors to the Tower of London. The quantity of clothes recorded in the inventories taken in 1600 would seem to suggest sheer vanity, but a survey of work carried out in the Wardrobe of Robes throughout the reign reveals a different picture. It is one of careful organisation and economy. This copiously annotated work is illustrated with photographs of portraits, miniatures, tomb sculptures, engravings, woven textiles and embroideries. Two indexes are provided, the first of paintings, persons, places, and events, while the second, partly a glossary, enables the reader to quickly trace information on fashionable dress and accessories. An invaluable reference for students of the history of dress and embroidery, for social historians, for art historians working in the field of portraiture, and those with a general interest in the period. Case-bound in cloth with dust jacket.

Survey of Historic Costume Coloring Book highlights Western dress from the ancient world to today through fashion silhouettes. By coloring line drawings that parallel chapters from the Survey of Historic Costume, Seventh Edition textbook, students will learn to identify and retain specific details that make each historical period's fashion unique. Each chapter also includes activities and prompts to promote further thinking and creativity, including features like Draw-It Boxes and Modern Connections Boxes. Through these dynamic, hands-on exercises, students will develop an understanding of historic costume, increase awareness of world culture, and have fun through this interactive learning medium. Features: -92 pieces of line art to color, adapted from images in Survey of Historic Costume -Modern Connections Boxes, Draw-It Boxes, Activity Boxes, and Global Connections Boxes provide additional exercises to apply knowledge of costume history and design -Image Captions and Cross References give additional historical context and allow images to be looked up in the companion textbook for further study

Fashion imagery has existed for hundreds of years and yet the methods used by scholars to understand it have remained mostly historical and descriptive. The belief informing these approaches may be that fashion imagery is designed for one purpose: to depict a garment and how to wear it. In this interdisciplinary book, Sanda Miller suggests a radical alternative to these well-practiced approaches, proposing that fashion imagery has stories to tell and meanings to uncover. The methodology she has developed is an iconography of fashion imagery, based on the same theory which has been key to the History of Art for centuries. Applying Panofsky's theory of iconography to illustrations from books, magazines and fashion plates, as well as fashion photography and even live fashion events, Miller uncovers three levels of meaning: descriptive, secondary (or conventional) and tertiary or 'symbolic'. In doing so, she answers questions such as who is the model; what did people wear and why; and how did people live? She proves that fashion imagery, far from being purely descriptive, is ripe with meaning and can be used to shed light on society, class, culture and the history of dress.

An exclusive homage to - and retrospective of - the iconic fashion designer's couture accessories.'One can never overstate the importance of accessories. They are what turns a dress into something else. I like dresses to be sober and accessories to be wild', Yves Saint Laurent, 1977.Yves Saint Laurent Accessories is the first book to date to shed light on the breathtaking accessories created by one of the most influential fashion designers of all time. From his first collection in 1962 to his acclaimed final presentation in 2002, Yves Saint Laurent created exquisite jewellery, hats, shoes, and handbags to complement and enhance each of his couture creations. Beautifully designed, in a small format evocative of a jewellery box, the book offers an unprecedented glimpse into the highly confidential archives of The Yves Saint Laurent Foundation in Paris, which is home to over 20,000 remarkable accessories. The book features specially commissioned photography of the accessories alongside a treasure trove of rare materials including preparatory sketches, intimate portraits of Saint Laurent at work, behind-the-scenes snapshots of models, catwalk photographs, and advertising campaigns. Yves Saint Laurent Accessories introduces readers to a prominent yet rarely seen side of Saint Laurent's art, leading them backstage and through the history of a house that helped to shape the course of fashion.

Packed with key skills and friendly know-how, this essential guide is ideal for anyone taking their first steps into dressmaking. The latest title in Debbie Shore's Sewing Room Secrets series, this essential guide is packed with key skills and friendly know-how and is ideal for anyone taking their first steps into dressmaking. It covers the important basics such as: how to read and adjust a pattern; how to choose, mark and cut fabric; how to add zips, pockets and buttons; how to adapt old, misshapen or over-sized garments, and how to do some basic mending - all shown step-by-step. This book is a toolkit designed to equip you with all the dressmaking skills you need; it contains ten inventive projects for you to try your hand at using your own pre-loved clothes, and gives you all the knowledge you need to make your own clothes from scratch using the pattern of your choice.

Created in 2002, the Nike Dunk was adopted from the court by skateboarders and sneakerheads to become an icon of the streets. An early catalyst to evolving sneaker culture as we know it today, the Nike Dunk has enjoyed a storied legacy of reinvention through numerous iterations and creative collaborations proving to be an integral part of a culture obsessed with sneakers. To celebrate this legacy, Nike SB: The Dunk Book is the first book to present the historical archive of one of the most important shoes ever created. Worn by an ever-growing list of elite riders at competitions all over the world, Nike Dunks are prized as much for their funky, one-of-a-kind designs as well as their high performance. Nike SB: The Dunk Book is filled with stunning images that tell the visual story of Nike SB s most iconic styles. Including Danny Supas, Staple Pigeon Dunks, De La Soul Highs, Paris Dunks, U.N.K.L.Es, and Supreme Dunk SBs, this volume flaunts the signature colour-ways and craftsmanship that Nike SBs are known for. Through enlightening anecdotes by the likes of Futura and Paul Rodriguez, readers get intimate accounts of how their favourite sneakers came to be. Also featured are archival images of Nike SB s most recognizable skaters rocking the iconic sneakers, including Eric Koston, Richard Mulder, Grant Taylor, Omar Salazar, Reese Forbes, Brian Anderson, Theotis Beasley, and Daniel Shimizu.

"Why have you not sent the clothes which you were supposed to send from the province of the Frisians? For the sake of God the Almighty, send them soon."- from an anonymous letter to a cleric in Frisia in the spring of 748. In this work the author presents a pioneering cultural history of clothing from approx. 750 to 1050, which places the clothing and life of medieval people in their social context. The findings of this volume are based on the detailed examination and evaluation of written, graphic and archaeological sources. The author presents the clothing of the laity, the robes of the ruling classes and the habits of monks and cathedral clergy, and gives an overview of the changes in clothing and fashion. A more technical second section deals with raw materials, dyes, and production and processing technology.

An engaging survey from the Middle Ages to the present, presenting fashion as a complex process that reflects economic, social, and political changes This engaging volume tells the history of Western fashion, exploring how and why it has influenced people's attitudes, actions, and beliefs since the Middle Ages. Back in Fashion focuses on themes specific to particular periods-such as the significance of medieval sumptuary laws that limited expenditure on clothing; the use of black in early modern Europe; the role of sports on clothing in contemporary times; and the rise of luxury in the new millennium. Author Giorgio Riello investigates how fashion has shaped and continues to characterize Western societies, impacting the lives of millions of people and their relationship to the economy and politics. Making a masterful case for why fashion history demands academic consideration on par with other more traditional histories, Riello presents fashion as a complex and constantly evolving force that not only reflects but drives cultural transformation.

This new edition of the classic reference is enhanced with hundreds of new color photographs depicting a wide array of collectors' treasures. Victorian hatpins, required to fasten large hats, and the holders used to store them when not in use, are presented in close views with extensive text to interpret their use and place them among popular historical fashion accessories. Precious and everyday materials alike are found in hatpins, and the holders are generally glass or porcelain. This new book will be a valuable aid to collectors and all who are interested in period costume, jewelry, and memorabilia

The fast and easy way to learn the art of fashion drawing

This fun guide gives you dozens of step-by-step diagrams that walk you through the process of preparing creative illustrations that you can later develop into dynamic presentations for your design portfolio. Plus, you'll not only learn how to draw clothes and fabric, but also how to show details that make up the total look: faces and hairstyles, fashion accents, and a wide variety of textures.

If you're an aspiring fashion designer, you know it's essential to be able to draw, prepare, and present a fashion drawing. Whether you have little or no prior drawing experience, "Fashion Drawing For Dummies" gives you easy-to-follow, non-intimidating instructions for mastering the drawing skills you need to design like a pro.Learn the rules and techniques of fashion drawingDraw the fashion figure in different poses and from multiple anglesDiscover how to complement your drawings with accessories, clothing, and style

If you're a fledgling designer looking for non-intimidating guidance on learning the ins and outs of fashion drawing, this friendly guide has you covered

"Personal style really originated with Iris Apfel; she has always espoused the virtues of not just dressing for yourself, but being who you are and doing it unapologetically, which is perhaps why she and her messaging and aesthetic have resonated so comprehensively. She's a transcendent icon!"- Leandra Medine, manrepeller.com A unique and lavishly illustrated collection of musings, anecdotes, and observations on all matters of life and style, infused with the singular candor, wit, and exuberance of the globally revered ninety-six-year-old fashion icon whose work has been celebrated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute and by countless fans worldwide. A woman who transcends time and trends, Iris Apfel is a true original, one of the most dynamic personalities in the worlds of fashion, textiles, and interior design. As the cofounder with her husband, Carl Apfel, of Old World Weavers, an international textile manufacturing company that specialized in reproducing antique fabrics, her prestigious clientele has included Greta Garbo, Estee Lauder, Montgomery Clift, and Joan Rivers. She also acted as a restoration consultant and replicated fabric for the White House over nine presidential administrations. Iris's travels worldwide and a passion for flea markets of all sorts inspired her work and fueled her passion for collecting fashion and accessories. In 2005, she was the first living person who was not a designer to have her clothing and accessories exhibited at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a blockbuster show that catapulted her to fame and a career as a supermodel, muse, and collaborator for renowned brands, from Citroen to Tag Heuer, and global gigs at Bon Marche in Paris and the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. In 2015, acclaimed director Albert Maysles released Iris, his last film-now an Emmy Award nominee-to a global audience. Now, this self-dubbed geriatric starlet, whose irrepressible authenticity, wit, candor, and infectious energy have earned her nearly a million followers on social media, has created an entertaining, thought-provoking, visually arresting, and inspiring volume-her first book-that captures her unique joie de vivre. Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon, contains an eclectic mix of musings and 180 full-color and black-and-white photos and illustrations-presented in the same improvisational, multifaceted style that have made Iris a contemporary fashion icon. Astute maxims, witty anecdotes from childhood to the present, essays on style and various subjects, from the decline of manners to the importance of taking risks, fill the book as do lists, both proclamatory, revelatory, and advisory. All are paired with a bold, color-filled, exciting design that varies from page to page. Here, too, is a treasure trove of never-before-published personal photographs and mementos, mixed with images from top international fashion photographers and illustrators with enchanting, surprising novelties such as Disney cartoons, vintage postcards, the Iris Apfel Halloween costume for children, and more.

The Time of Discretion is an intimate, slow and relational time. It is also an artistic project. Besides Italy, it has been developed in the remote areas on the southeast border of the Gobi Desert and in the Guizhou Province (South China), in search of rituals, ancient textile practices or together as one. The research documented here crosses experience and representation, dramatically compares East and West, advancing a dense theoretical scenario in relation to globalisation processes.

Technical Drawing for Fashion explains how to create a technical fashion drawing using a simple and straightforward step-by-step method. This second edition includes more information on rendering drawings by hand and using a computer, and a brand new section on knitwear. The main part of the book presents over 600 technical drawings of garment types, styles and construction details, the basic key shapes of which are shown alongside a specially created and photographed calico toile. This unique presentation illustrates the relationship between the three-dimensional garment and the two-dimensional drawing, allowing readers to really understand how to render technical drawings