"Quite simply the most fascinating record of a '[fashion] victim' one could hope for." The Spectator This captivating study reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, it chronicles how style-conscious accountant Matthaus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the 16th century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress - seemingly both ephemeral and trivial - is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and everyday culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of 16th-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.

In a searing 2012 Guardian op-ed, Hannah Azieb Pool took Western fashion designers to task for their so-called African-inspired clothing. 'Dear Fashion,' she wrote, 'Africa is a continent, not a country. Can you imagine anyone describing a fashion trend as "European-inspired?" Of course not. It's meaningless.' Now, with Fashion Cities Africa, Pool aims to correct the misconceptions about African fashion, providing key context for contemporary African fashion scenes and capturing the depth and breadth of truly African fashion. Tied to the Fashion Cities Africa exhibition at the Brighton Museum, the book gives much needed attention to four key African fashion scenes: Nairobi, Lagos, Casablanca and Johannesburg - one from each region of the continent. Filled with interviews of leading African fashion designers, stylists and commentators, alongside hundreds of exclusive street-style images, Fashion Cities Africa is a landmark book that should be celebrated in fashion houses the world over.

From workaday marigolds to hand-wear custom crafted for the Queen, gloves perform many functions - insulation from the cold, protection from injury, and even ceremonial roles. Gloves have been used since prehistoric times, but in Britain their use as formal and fashion items took off during Elizabeth I's reign, and played a surprisingly significant cultural role well into the nineteenth century. They were often given as precious gifts, used in coronation ceremonies, sent to indicate assent, or even to offer a formal challenge. This beautifully illustrated history, published in association with the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London, delves into the glove's place in history, offers detailed descriptions of their production in the artisanal workshop and on the factory floor, and also tells the fascinating story of the closely guarded privileges of the glove-makers' guilds.

This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. "A remarkable resource for the field of fashion studies suitable for both newcomers ... [and] seasoned practitioners." - Fashion Historia "A precious source in the study of the subject ... inspiring." - The Journal of Dress History The last decade has seen the growing popularity and visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions. This book explores the history of fashion displays, highlighting the continuity of past and present curatorial practices. Comparing and contrasting exhibitions from different museums and decades-from the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 to the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011, and beyond-it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By critically analyzing trends in fashion exhibition practice over the 20th and early 21st centuries, Julia Petrov defines and describes the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American museum exhibitions. Rooted in extensive archival research on exhibitions by global leaders in the field-from the Victoria and Albert and the Bath Fashion Museum to the Brooklyn and the Royal Ontario Museums-the work reveals how fashion exhibitions have been shaped by the values and anxieties associated with fashion more generally. Supplemented by parallel critical approaches, including museological theory, historiography, body theory, material culture, and visual studies, Fashion, History, Museums demonstrates that in an increasingly corporate and mass-mediated world, fashion exhibitions must be analysed in a comparative and global context. Richly illustrated with 70 images, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion history and museology, as well as curators, conservators, and exhibition designers.

Fashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain - separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked - this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fashion scholars to consider how global and local networks of dress dissemination converged to shape fashionable dress in Britain, and how British methods and aesthetics spread outwards across the world. From the drawing rooms of 19th-century London, to the verandas of 19th-century Australia, contributors to Disseminating Dress develop narratives of commodity and knowledge exchange to consider how fashion circulated.

Coco Chanel lived her own life as a romantic heroine. Fuelled by 19th century literature, she built a life which was partly myth and, partly, factual. She was the fashion designer everyone admired. The business woman whose fortune was impossible to track. She was also a performer, lover of many high profile intellectuals and, as believed by many, a nazi spy. Her life was, extraordinarily, affected by history (the nazi movement and World War II), symbolism and literature. This biography explores her life from her troubled and poor past to the opening of her first hat shop, passions and secrets; the biography also draws parallelisms between myths and facts and how, and if ever, they match at all. The biography also features chapters on the Chanel Maison and the creation of her iconic trademark as well as her little black dress' and Chanel No 5'. Finally, the biography ends with a reflection on how the myth of Coco Chanel is represented today in pop culture.

Noted photo-historian documents bonnets, capes, caps, shawls, bodices and crinolines as people actually wore them-from 1840 to 1914. 235 early photos show aristocrats and the middle class (as well as Oscar Wilde, Lily Langtry, G. B. Shaw, Queen Victoria, etc.). A commentary and annotations to the photos describe and identify the costumes.

Commanding the hothouse environment of Harajuku, the street fashion and culture district of Tokyo, Hiroshi Fujiwara is recognized the world over as a pioneer in streetwear, music, and art and is the ultimate arbiter of cool. Known internationally as one of the founding fathers of the 1990s Tokyo scene, Fujiwara exerts a disproportionate influence over contemporary design culture. With recent and highly successful collaborations with Louis Vuitton and Moncler, and with his mainstay work at Nike and Medicom, Fujiwara refines an aesthetic immersed in punk, hip-hop, and skate culture and translates it into pure luxury. A musician and producer originally from western Japan, Fujiwara is one of the most prolific of sneaker designers, and his kicks remain some of the most sought-after collectibles. In addition to his very visible and long-standing collaborations with major Western brands, he has long associations with Japanese disruptors like Jun Takahashi of Undercover and is head of the Tokyo-based Fragment Design. Chronicling his reign as the arbiter of hip for more than thirty years, this book presents his current preoccupations, with chapters on his highly sought-after artwork and graphics, sneakers, product design, and curated personal effects, giving readers a unique glimpse into one of the most influential tastemakers of our time.

"Chanel fans rejoice. . . . As glamorous and chic as you'd expect."--The Observer (on the first edition) A comprehensive and captivating overview of all of Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel collections, showcasing his creations through original catwalk photography This fully revised edition of the first overview of Karl Lagerfeld's (1933-2019) Chanel creations maintains every exceptional detail of the first edition. Images of key looks and short informative texts bring to life each season--now with 22 new collections, including Lagerfeld's final show for the house and the work of his successor, Virginie Viard. Beautifully produced, this book will stand as the ultimate reference on Lagerfeld's iconic Chanel looks and serve as a lasting tribute to one of the most talented and influential fashion designers in history. Opening with an introductory essay about Lagerfeld and his vision for Chanel, the book explores the collections chronologically, revealing the designer's inspired reinvention of classic Chanel style elements from season to season. Each collection is illustrated with a curated selection of catwalk images (filled with photos of top fashion models, including Cara Delevingne, Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss, and Claudia Schiffer), showcasing hundreds of spectacular clothes, from luxurious haute couture to trendsetting ready-to-wear, accessories, beauty looks, and set designs.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

Perhaps more so than any other decade, the sixties had the broadest impact on the twentieth-century Western world. Across society, culture and the arts, youth voices rose to prominence and had a significant influence on new trends. Mature polished elegance was replaced by young liveliness as the fashionable ideal. Although only the most daring young followers of fashion wore the tiny miniskirts and borderline-unwearable plastic and metal outfits publicised in the press, stylish and smart fashion was increasingly available to all, with an emphasis on self-expression. New style icons such as Twiggy combined girl-next-door looks with trendy, aspirational and accessible outfits, and popular culture heavily influenced mainstream fashion. This beautifully illustrated book offers a concise guide to changing styles across the decade.

The heyday of Silent Film, so beloved by film buffs, was an era that became instantly quaint with the arrival of "Talkies." As early as 1929, critics and film historians were writing of the period as though of the distant past. Since then, a torrent of books has been released, many of which mention art-in the main, asking whether film could be art-others discussing the splendor of the sets, the persuasion of the ambiance, or the psychological depth of the scenario. What these authors seem to have overlooked is the work of the costume and set designers to provide the background which profoundly affects all of the above. Most especially, they failed to examine the source of the inspiration on those who created that background. To fill this apparent gap, the premise of this volume-costume and set design in the silent film-concentrates on what is arguably the most prevailing influence on both, the presumed nobility of the Middle Ages. Largely owing to the psychological upset of World War I, although beginning earlier, society was in a state of flux. Women, who had been so active during the war, refused to return exclusively to home and kitchen. Veterans, who had experienced the worst, could no longer accept the prewar class restrictions and artificial manners. It was only natural that a longing for what seemed a nobler and purer period would be created. Designers, if only partly consciously, turned to that period like flowers to the sun, creating an ambiance which they felt reflected those higher ideals. Ironically, although the influence is more than obvious in both sets and wardrobes, the period devolves into one of freedom bordering on license, and an almost complete overthrow of those old-fashioned ideals.

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on smart and sustainable industrial procedures and 3D printing, issues in marketing and communication, and topics concerning social responsibility, sustainability, emotions, creativity and education. It highlights research that is expected to foster the development of design and fashion on a global and interdisciplinary scale. Gathering the proceedings of the 5th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2022, held on July 4-7, 2022, in Guimaraes, Portugal, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education.

A couture of the risque evolved on a bridge of fashion from Paris nightclubs to Las Vegas casinos. A one-time writer for sexy magazines and on style, the author, with contributions from many experts on topics from Paris to feathers and sequins explores that entertainment story, and the hedonism behind it. For over a century, France exported costumes and millinery, as well as whole productions from the Moulin Rouge, the Lido, and Folies Bergere in Paris to the United States and the world. French has meant luxury, sexuality and fashion. In large part, the concept of glamour itself was founded in what French courtesans and French burlesque performers wore in Paris. Where did the costume typifying showgirls originate and from what? Whereas fashion implies change, the iconic showgirl costume stabilized into feathers, sparkle and revealing clothes by 1910. A tall pretty girl wearing a headdress, nude core with spangles, high heels, and dramatic makeup came to be a Gallic symbol. She performed a role of the dissimulation of sexual availability with now venerable features. She was the fizz on intoxication with no hangover, and by the 1920s, the trademark of Hollywood musicals. More recently, while showgirls are an endangered species, the scanty French cabaret clothes have translated into today's day, sport and evening clothes.

Clothes define people. A person's attire, whether it's a sari, kimono, or business suit, is an essential code to his or her culture, class, personality, even faith. Founded in 1978, the Kyoto Costume Institute recognizes the importance of understanding clothes from sociological, historical, and artistic perspectives. With one of the world's most extensive clothing collections, the KCI has amassed a wide range of historical garments, underwear, shoes, and fashion accessories dating from the 18th century to the present day. Showcasing the Institute's vast collection, Fashion History is a fascinating excursion through clothing trends from the 18th to the 20th century. Featuring impeccable photography of clothing expertly displayed and arranged on custom-made mannequins, it is a testimony to attire as "an essential manifestation of our very being" and to the Institute's passion for fashion as a complex and intricate art form. The authors include some of the smartest minds and sharpest eyes in fashion studies: Akiko Fukai (Director and Curator Emeritus of the Kyoto Costume Institute), Tamami Suoh (Curator of The Kyoto Costume Institute), Miki Iwagami (Lecturer of fashion history at Bunka Gakuen University, Tokyo), Reiko Koga (former professor of fashion history at Bunka Gakuen University, Tokyo), and Rie Nii (Curator of The Kyoto Costume Institute).

Fashion demands a steady flow of creative ideas. Research and Design for Fashion will guide you through the research techniques that could spark your next original collection. With practical advice on designing effective moodboards, recycling existing garments and getting to know your customer, this new edition will help you master the research process and apply it to your own designs. There's also a wealth of advice through interviews with exceptional designers, including Christopher Raeburn, ThreeASFOUR and Magdalena Mikulicakova, as well as updated imagery of the research and design work behind both single garments and entire collections. This fourth edition also explores how cultural events, historical anniversaries and sport influences can be the starting point for a collection. There's also more on creative ways of recording your findings and designing for menswear, childrenswear and gender-neutral clothing.

This redesigned and full-colour second edition by best-selling author Elisabetta Drudi is an inspirational sourcebook of the drawing techniques required to render fashion details. It contains all the knowledge required to make accurate tech- nical drawings of all imaginable variations of collars, pleats, flounces, gathers, drapes and necklines, and it includes 4,000 original fashion drawings. This title offers an extended, topic- by-topic guide to acquiring and perfecting the skills needed to produce realistic and precise fashion plates that accurately reflect a designer's creative vision. The volume's breadth of information and attention to detail make this worldwide best- seller an invaluable resource for designers, illustrators, artists, students and anyone who enjoys fashion design.

Beyond Fashion provides a behind-the-scenes peek into the world of fashion, a universe that is as fascinating and creative as it is inextricably linked to commercial, psychological and social canons. This thoroughly-illustrated volume covers all elements of the fashion business beyond clothing, from the commercial to psychological and sociological aspects of the industry. Branding, marketing, retailing, merchandising and business identity, style, the eternal pursuit of beauty, and the search for personal expression are the fundamental aspects of an industry which has evolved to become one of the most sophisticated, influential and dynamic sectors in the world. The implications are not just economic: what we wear conveys who we are. Clothes and accessories are the bearers of complex psychological and social canons, they are aesthetic products, means of self-definition and objects of desire. Complementary to the evolution of fashion itself, hand-in-hand with changes in taste throughout history, the practice of shopping has undergone epic transformations, becoming a daily activity, an integral part of everyday life. So, which elements are involved in the creation of this 'desire'? What are the ingredients of fashion alchemy? This book reveals these and many more secrets of the fashion business.

The Fashion Intern is intended for the student employed in any segment of the textile and apparel industry. Drawing on her experience with students and her earlier edition of Guide to Analyzing Your Fashion Industry Internship,Granger provides information for any organization along the channel of distribution. This guide, with accompanying CD-ROM, is intended for the student employed in any segment of the apparel, accessories, soft goods and home interior industries. It is written to accommodate interns in fashion merchandising, retailing, design, product development, promotion and production. It encourages interns to view the fashion industry from a marketing perspective.

The Dress of the Year is a deluxe study of exquisite fashion from 1963 to the present, drawn from the renowned collection at the Fashion Museum, Bath. Each year, a fashion-world luminary is invited to capture the definitive moment in an international whirlwind of creative style by choosing the outfit that truly represents that year's mood in fashion. The announcement of each winner is widely covered in the British press, and the resulting Dress of the Year collection is a treasure trove of international design. Among the extraordinary roll-call of design names are Mary Quant, Jean Muir, Ossie Clark, Biba, Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Margaret Howell, Katharine Hamnett, Giorgio Armani, John Galliano, Paul Smith, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ralph Lauren, Donatella Versace, Tom Ford, Marni, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Kate Moss for Top Shop, Vivienne Westwood and Sarah Burton. The choices are made and explained by a Who's Who of great style writers, including Felicity Green, Prudence Glynn, Beatrix Miller, Grace Coddington, Suzy Menkes, Colin McDowell, Liz Tilberis, Isabella Blow, Iain R. Webb, Alexandra Shulman, Hilary Alexander, Paula Reed and Hamish Bowles. Through specially-commissioned new photography, unseen archive material and contemporary media images, this sumptuous book reveals the Dress of The Year collection in all its glory for the first time. The book champions an important and fascinating fashion project, offering a detailed insight into our ever-changing styles and tastes since the early 1960s, and revealing the complex interplay between haute couture, celebrity endorsement and the High Street.

Fashionary has teamed up with idiosyncratic Danish artist and designer Henrik Vibskov to create its first ever pocket planner. As an artist, stage designer, musician and head of his fashion brand, Henrik Vibskov is an icon of the Scandinavian design industry, and now you can own an incredible fashion dictionary and notebook in his signature African print.

From the sky-high coiffures of Georgian Britain to the languid silhouette of 1920s 'flappers', Style and Satire tells the story of European fashion and its most fantastical trends from two interrelated perspectives - the lavish, celebratory fashion plate, and the gloriously irreverent satirical print. Beautifully printed, hand-coloured fashion plates depicting the latest styles and fabrics first appeared in Britain and France in the late 1700s - nestled in luxurious periodicals and available for sale as desirable objects in their own right. At the same time (and often by the same artists), satirical prints gloried in the absurdities of fashion, presenting an alternative, often grotesque, vision of the fashionable ideal. Presented here as a joint history for the first time, the two genres describe an emerging, vibrant fashion culture. They themselves also evolved as art forms, first through the pages of the mass-produced Victorian periodical, and then as vibrant, stencilled images in the luxurious publications of the 1920s and '30s. Lavishly illustrated and rigorously researched, Style and Satire presents a fresh and original history of fashion - a vital and witty addition to every fashion victim's library.

The silhouettes in this splendid collection, selected from archives of late 19th- and early 20th-century graphic arts, offer designers and artists nearly 1000 designs ideal for illustrating a vast array of subjects: the human profile and figure, coiffed and dressed in many different ways; familiar animals, flowers and birds; trains, planes, automobiles, ships and many more.

A fresh and enticing introduction to the art of millinery, blending modern design and refined techniques with trusted traditional methods. Clear and concise, this book has been compiled with all budgets and a variety of skill levels in mind. Explore core millinery materials through a series of techniques based on a single wooden block and sculptural, hand-sewn, flat-patterned hats. Learn how to push the boundaries of your equipment through creative thinking and nurture your own design ability with milliner-specific design advice and exercises. You'll also learn ways of working sustainably. Over 200 photographs, sketches, and clear guidance from Sophie Beale combine to offer you over 20 activities, with instructions for 11 complete headpieces and hats, including straw hats, boaters, felt hats, veils, and more. The projects are carefully planned to make them easy to digest, each focusing on different, interchangeable materials and methods.