Tang dynasty (618-907) China hummed with cosmopolitan trends. Its capital at Chang'an was the most populous city in the world and was connected via the Silk Road with the critical markets and thriving cultures of Central Asia and the Middle East. In Empire of Style, BuYun Chen reveals a vibrant fashion system that emerged through the efforts of Tang artisans, wearers, and critics of clothing. Across the empire, elite men and women subverted regulations on dress to acquire majestic silks and au courant designs, as shifts in economic and social structures gave rise to what we now recognize as precursors of a modern fashion system: a new consciousness of time, a game of imitation and emulation, and a shift in modes of production. This first book on fashion in premodern China is informed by archaeological sources-paintings, figurines, and silk artifacts-and textual records such as dynastic annals, poetry, tax documents, economic treatises, and sumptuary laws. Tang fashion is shown to have flourished in response to a confluence of social, economic, and political changes that brought innovative weavers and chic court elites to the forefront of history. Art History Publication Initiative. For more information, visit http://arthistorypi.org/books/empire-of-style

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on smart and sustainable industrial procedures and 3D printing, issues in marketing and communication, and topics concerning social responsibility, sustainability, emotions, creativity and education. It highlights research that is expected to foster the development of design and fashion on a global and interdisciplinary scale. Gathering the proceedings of the 5th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2022, held on July 4-7, 2022, in Guimaraes, Portugal, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education.

Paul Jackson's major new title Complete Pleats is the most comprehensive book about pleating on the market. It explains how pleating systems can be stretched, compressed, flared, skewed, multiplied, and mirrored, showing how from simple ideas, a huge number of original pleat forms can be created. Each technique is explained with a series of step-by-step photographs and line illustrations, enabling the designer to work through the basic principles of pleating and then adapt them to their specific needs. Complete Pleats also features more than 60 examples of pleats from the worlds of architecture, fashion, and product design. Paul Jackson has taught pleating techniques to students of Fashion Design for 30 years, in both paper and fabric. Complete Pleats is the definitive practical guide for anyone wishing to create and make pleats. The book includes a DVD featuring 23 videos of pleating techniques.

**THE INSTANT NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER** Veteran style journalist Elizabeth Holmes expands her popular Instagram series, So Many Thoughts, into a nuanced look at the fashion and branding of the four most influential members of the British Royal Family: Queen Elizabeth II; Diana, Princess of Wales; Catherine, The Duchess of Cambridge; and Meghan, The Duchess of Sussex. Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle are global style icons, their every fashion choice chronicled and celebrated. With all eyes on them, the duchesses select clothes that send a message about their values, interests, and priorities. Their thoughtful sartorial strategies follow in the footsteps of Queen Elizabeth II and Diana, Princess of Wales, two towering figures known for using their personal style to great acclaim. With one section devoted to each woman, HRH is a celebration of their stories and their style, pairing hundreds of gorgeous photographs with extensive research. A picture emerges of the British monarchy's evolution and the power of royal fashion, showing there's always more than what meets the eye.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

Men's jewelry has a long and fascinating history, with storied houses, famous patrons and a diverse range of modern designers. Behind each tiny piece often lies a complex narrative of patronage, personality and craftsmanship. This is the first publication dedicated solely to a neglected subject. Drawing on his expertise on men's style and insider's knowledge of the jewelry industry, men's style aficionado James Sherwood tells the story of men's relationship with jewelry and presents the contemporary artisans who keep the art alive. Through thematic chapters, works by key jewelers are profiled and richly illustrated, including pieces by Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Cartier, Boucheron and Ara Vartanian. Hundreds of exquisite photographs, many specially commissioned, of rings, cufflinks, studs, pins, slides, bracelets, chains and pendants chart changing fashions and evolving attitudes to men's jewelry over the centuries. Pieces by great craftsmen and -women and the patrons who commissioned them, from the Maharaja of Kashmir to David Bowie, are brought to life through vivid texts and contemporary and archival portraits. This sumptuous guide to sartorial elegance sets men's jewelry in its proper historical and cultural contexts, offering an unexpected resource for jewelers and a trove of inspiration for anyone who wears, gifts or simply admires men's jewelry.

How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping - there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH. This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.

Beyond Fashion provides a behind-the-scenes peek into the world of fashion, a universe that is as fascinating and creative as it is inextricably linked to commercial, psychological and social canons. This thoroughly-illustrated volume covers all elements of the fashion business beyond clothing, from the commercial to psychological and sociological aspects of the industry. Branding, marketing, retailing, merchandising and business identity, style, the eternal pursuit of beauty, and the search for personal expression are the fundamental aspects of an industry which has evolved to become one of the most sophisticated, influential and dynamic sectors in the world. The implications are not just economic: what we wear conveys who we are. Clothes and accessories are the bearers of complex psychological and social canons, they are aesthetic products, means of self-definition and objects of desire. Complementary to the evolution of fashion itself, hand-in-hand with changes in taste throughout history, the practice of shopping has undergone epic transformations, becoming a daily activity, an integral part of everyday life. So, which elements are involved in the creation of this 'desire'? What are the ingredients of fashion alchemy? This book reveals these and many more secrets of the fashion business.

Surface Design for Fabric is a comprehensive, how-to guide to more than 60 surface design techniques for various fabrics and leather-ranging from the traditional to the experimental.Highly illustrated with more than 600 color images, the step-by-step instructions and photographs demonstrate surface design techniques, allowing readers to quickly grasp the material and further explore and experiment on their own. Irwin covers a broad range of surface design techniques including: dyeing, staining, removing color, resists, printing and transfer, fiber manipulations, fabric manipulations, embroidery, and embellishments. This modern studio resource clearly guides readers in the creation of beautiful, innovative, and professional surface designs. Key Features ~Surface Design for Fabric STUDIO provides online access to video tutorials featuring select techniques from each chapter; student self quizzes with results and personalized study tips; and flashcards with definitions and image identification to help students master concepts and improve grades ~Chapters feature a fabric selection quick guide, tools and materials, how to set up your workspace, application methods, and safety guidelines for each technique. ~Designer Profiles and Collection Spotlights show current examples of surface design end uses in fashion design, textile art, fine art, and interior design ~Environmental Impact boxes address critical environmental and sustainability issues and concerns for each chapter ~Includes helpful hints, important facts, shortcuts and mistakes to avoid throughout chapters Instructor's Resources ~ Instructor's Guide and Test Bank

When Cecil Beaton died in 1980, it was not surprising that one of his tailors was telephoned with the news before Buckingham Palace, despite his close association with the Royal Family. From the moment he arrived at Cambridge University in 1922 wearing evening jacket, red shoes, black-and-white trousers and a large cravat, to his first meeting with Greta Garbo ten years later in `pristine white kid coat, sharkskin, and new white shoes and socks', to his appearance nearly forty years later at Truman Capote's 1970 Black and White Ball, Beaton expressed a flamboyant sartorial nonchalance - a sprezzatura. He had accounts with many Savile Row tailors; he bought his hats from Herbert Johnson and Lock & Co, his shirts from Excello in New York; and the clothes he bought from Lanz of Salzburg are now, along with other elements of his wardrobe, in the Metropolitan Museum, New York, and the V&A, London. His wardrobe went through many changes, beautifully documented and illustrated in this virtuoso study, which will delight and inform the big new audience for men's clothes that are distinctive, supremely well made, and carrying authority with style.

Queen Alexandra used clothes to fashion images of herself as a wife, a mother and a royal: a woman who both led Britain alongside her husband Edward VII and lived her life through fashion. Inside the Royal Wardrobe overturns the popular portrait of a vapid and neglected queen, examining the surviving garments of Alexandra, Princess of Wales - who later became Queen Consort - to unlock a rich tapestry of royal dress and society in the second half of the 19th century. More than 130 extraordinary garments from Alexandra's wardrobe survive, from sumptuous court dress and politicised fancy dress to mourning attire and elegant coronation gowns, and can be found in various collections around the world, from London, Oslo and Denmark to New York, Toronto and Tokyo. Curator and fashion scholar Kate Strasdin places these garments at the heart of this in-depth study, examining their relationships to issues such as body politics, power, celebrity, social identity and performance, and interpreting Alexandra's world from the objects out. Adopting an object-based methodology, the book features a range of original sources from letters, travel journals and newspaper editorials, to wardrobe accounts, memoirs, tailors' ledgers and business records. Revealing a shrewd and socially aware woman attuned to the popular power of royal dress, the work will appeal to students and scholars of costume, fashion and dress history, as well as of material culture and 19th century history.

This book examines cosplay from a set of groundbreaking disciplinary approaches, highlighting the latest and emerging discourses around this popular cultural practice. Planet Cosplay is authored by widely published scholars in this field, examining the central aspects of cosplay ranging from sources and sites to performance and play, from sex and gender to production and consumption. Topics discussed include the rise of cosplay as a cultural phenomenon and its role in personal, cultural and global identities. Planet Cosplay provides a unique, multifaceted examination of the practice from theoretical bases including popular cultural studies, performance studies, gender studies and transmedia studies. As the title suggests, the book's purview is global, encompassing some of the main centres of cosplay throughout the United States, Asia, Europe and Australasia. Each of the chapters offers not only a set of entry points into its subject matter, but also a narrative of the development of cosplay and scholarly approaches to it.

Bring the best French fashion looks to life with the Elegance 1000 Piece Puzzle. The Elegance 1000 Piece Puzzle is an exquisite celebration of haute couture, pret-a-porter and everything chic, from internationally renowned fashion illustrator Megan Hess. From the courts of Versailles to the cobbled streets of Paris, French fashion has always been the epitome of elegance. Whether it's the New Look, the Le Smoking jacket or the little black dress, the masters of French fashion understand that clothing is more than a craft: it's an art form. Now you too can absorb yourself in the world of French fashion with this divine puzzle. Recommended for ages 10 and up, the Elegance 1000 Piece Puzzle takes 3 to 10 hours to complete. Completed puzzle measures 685 x 480 mm.

For fashion students who want to be both in the now and in the know! The Dynamics of Fashion, Sixth Edition, has the latest facts and figures, and the most current theories in fashion development, production, and merchandising, giving you the foundation you need in the industry. It offers hundreds of real-life examples of leading brands and industry trends, to show you fashion careers and how to apply what you learn. The book also covers sustainable fashion, wearable technology, social media, and more in detail. An online STUDIO includes self-quizzes, flashcards, and links to videos. New to this Edition -New chapter on sustainability with current industry processes -New chapter on fashion careers and how to get started in the industry -All Fashion Focus box features have been updated to current topics and industry trends The Dynamics of Fashion, 6th Edition STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification -Branch out with links to curated online multi-media resources that bring chapter concepts to life -Expand your knowledge by further exploring special features Fashion Focus, Sustainability, and Social media Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide featuring answers to end-of-chapter activities, supplemental student activities and assignments, a comprehensive test bank of multiple choice, identification, true or false, and essay questions for each chapter and unit, and a guide to exploring careers -PowerPoint (R) presentations include full-color images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion -Curated digital library of special supplemental resources for all of the text's features including categorical links to articles, image galleries, and videos from respected trade, fashion, and news websites

Terence Donovan was one of the foremost photographers of his generation - among the greatest Britain has ever produced. He came to prominence in London as part of a postwar renaissance in art, fashion, graphic design and photography. Alongside David Bailey and Brian Duffy, photographers of a similar working-class background and outlook, Donovan was a new force in fashion photography. Together, they captured and helped create the Swinging 60s. They socialized with celebrities and royalty, and found themselves elevated to stardom in their own right. Gifted with an unerring eye for the iconic image, Donovan was also master of his craft, a technical genius who pushed the limits of what was possible with a camera. And yet despite his fame and status, there has never been a publication devoted to his fashion work, for he allowed none to be released during his lifetime. Terence Donovan Fashion is thus the first time his fashion pictures have been collected together in book form. Arranged chronologically, from the gritty monochromatic 1960s and 1970s to the vibrant and colourful 1980s and 1990s, the book reveals how his constant invention and experimentation not only set him apart from his contemporaries, but also influenced generations to come. Contributions from some of the many designers, models and art directors who worked with him provide fascinating insights into his practice. Compiled by the artist's widow Diana Donovan and former art director of Nova magazine and Pentagram partner David Hillman, who worked closely with Donovan for over a decade, and including an illuminating text by Robin Muir, ex-picture editor of Vogue, and foreword by Grace Coddington, creative director of American Vogue and advisor to the project, Terence Donovan Fashion is indisputably a landmark in the history of fashion photography.

Rethinking Fashion Globalization is a timely call to rewrite the fashion system and push back against Eurocentric dominance within fashion histories by presenting new models, approaches and understandings of fashion from critical thinkers at the forefront of decolonial fashion discourse. This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more. The volume is divided into three key themes, 'Disruptions in Time and Space', 'Nationalism and Transnationalism' and 'Global Design Practices'. These themes re-map fashion's origins, practices and futures, to present alternatives for reclaiming and rethinking fashion globalization in the 21st century.

The Business of Beauty is a unique exploration of the history of beauty, consumption, and business in Victorian and Edwardian London. Illuminating national and cultural contingencies specific to London as a global metropolis, it makes an important intervention by challenging the view of those who-like their historical contemporaries-perceive the 19th and early 20th centuries as devoid of beauty praxis, let alone a commercial beauty culture. Contrary to this perception, The Business of Beauty reveals that Victorian and Edwardian women and men developed a number of tacit strategies to transform their looks including the purchase of new goods and services from a heterogeneous group of urban entrepreneurs: hairdressers, barbers, perfumers, wigmakers, complexion specialists, hair-restorers, manicurists, and beauty "culturists." Mining trade journals, census data, periodical print, and advice literature, Jessica P. Clark takes us on a journey through Victorian and Edwardian London's beauty businesses, from the shady back parlors of Sarah "Madame Rachel" Leverson to the elegant showrooms of Eugene Rimmel into the first Mayfair salon of Mrs. Helena Titus, aka Helena Rubinstein. By revealing these stories, Jessica P. Clark revises traditional chronologies of British beauty consumption and provides the historical background to 20th-century developments led by Rubinstein and others. Weaving together histories of gender, fashion, and business to investigate the ways that Victorian critiques of self-fashioning and beautification defined both the buying and selling of beauty goods, this is a revealing resource for scholars, students, fashion followers, and beauty enthusiasts alike.

Peter Lindbergh, one of the world's foremost fashion photographers, celebrates the female form in this classic book. Peter Lindbergh's Images of Women is now available in this new unabridged compact edition. Lindbergh, who passed away in 2019, took a comprehensive look at his body of work from the 1980s and '90s and hand selected these black-and-white photographs of the most beautiful and famous women in the world. It was the era of the supermodels, a phenomenon he himself had helped create, and he left his own unique stamp upon it, influencing an entire generation of fashion photographers with his distinct style. Lindbergh was always interested in the aura, individuality, and personality of his models which resulted in images that captured an ideal of beauty more than just perfection and glamour. This splendid monograph represents the definitive collection of Lindbergh's considerable oeuvre: classic fashion photographs, arresting candids, portraits of female celebrities--including Madonna, Isabella Rossellini, Sharon Stone, Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Rampling, Daryl Hannah--and of course his signature shots of the world's supermodels.

The kimono is an iconic garment with a history as rich and colourful as the textiles from which it is crafted. Deeply associated with Japanese culture both past and present, it has often been thought of as a highly gendered, rigidly traditional and unchanging national costume. This book challenges that perception, revealing the nuanced meanings and messages behind the kimono from the point of view of its wearers and producers, many of whom - both men and women - see the garment as a vehicle for self-expression. Taking a material culture approach, The Social Life of Kimono is the first study to combine the history of the kimono as a fashionable garment with an in-depth exploration of its multifaceted role today on both the street and the catwalk. Through case studies covering historical advertising campaigns, fashion magazines, interviews with contemporary kimono designers, large scale and small craft producers, and consumers who choose to wear them, The Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into making and meaning of this complex garment.

Justine Picardie spent years puzzling over the truth about Coco Chanel, peeling away the accretions of romance and lies. Since its publication in 2010, hers has become the definitive Chanel biography. With a new foreword and previously unseen images, this new edition delves even deeper into the life and legacy of this eternally alluring woman. Coco Chanel was an extraordinary inventor - she conjured up the little black dress, bobbed hair, trousers for women, contemporary chic, best-selling perfumes, and the most successful fashion brand of all time - but she also invented herself, fashioning the myth of her own life with the same dexterity as her couture. While Chanel was supreme innovator and vendor of all things elegant and beautiful, what lies beneath her own glossy myth is far darker. Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. Justine Picardie brings the mysterious Gabrielle Chanel out of hiding, to celebrate her great achievements. She examines Chanel's enduring afterlife, as well as her remarkable life, uncovering the consequences of what she covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and legend, yet keeping intact the real fabric of her past.

The colour and shade of dyed textiles were once as much an indicator of social class or position as the fabric itself and for centuries the recipes used by dyers were closely guarded secrets. The arrival of synthetic dyestuffs in the middle of the nineteenth century opened up a whole rainbow of options and within 50 years modern dyes had completely overturned the dyeing industry. From pre-history to the current day, the story of dyed textiles in Western Europe brings together the worlds of politics, money, the church, law, taxation, international trade and exploration, fashion, serendipity and science. This book is an introduction to a broad, diverse and fascinating subject of how and why people coloured textiles. A fresh review of this topic, this book brings previous scholars' work to light, alongside new discoveries and research.

In an era of increasingly available digital resources, many textile designers and makers find themselves at an interesting juncture between traditional craft processes and newer digital technologies. Highly specialized craft/design practitioners may now elect to make use of digital processes in their work, but often choose not to abandon craft skills fundamental to their practice, and aim to balance the complex connection between craft and digital processes. The essays collected here consider this transition from the viewpoint of aesthetic opportunity arising in the textile designer's hands-on experimentation with material and digital technologies available in the present. Craft provides the foundations for thinking within the design and production of textiles, and as such may provide some clues in the transition to creative and thoughtful use of current and future digital technologies. Within the framework of current challenges relating to sustainable development, globalization, and economic constraints it is important to interrogate and question how we might go about using established and emerging technologies in textiles in a positive manner.

Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse is a revelatory, irresistible treat for dance aficionados and fashionistas alike. Couturiers such as Balmain, Balenciaga, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Charles James, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent designed ballet-inspired dresses and gowns, many featuring the boned bodices and voluminous tulle skirts of classical tutus. American ready-to-wear designers such as Claire McCardell found inspiration in ballet leotards and other practice clothing, creating knitted separates, bathing suits, and wrap dresses.

Written by fashion and ballet experts, the book is illustrated with archival photography by such masters as Richard Avedon, Edward Steichen, Irving Penn, Man Ray, and Cecil Beaton, along with newly commissioned photography of contemporary ballerinas wearing ballet-influenced couture.