Since 1818, Brooks Brothers, America s oldest clothing brand, has grown into a global sartorial institution that has influenced American style through its iconic fashions, which conjure intimate memories of pivotal life events from your first navy blazer as a child to stepping into a bespoke suit on your wedding day. On the eve of its two-hundredth anniversary, Brooks Brothers remains synonymous with timeless style, the finest quality, and innovative designs that resonate with both old and new generations. This richly illustrated book is replete with photographs of the signature heritage pieces, from the Original Polo button-down oxford, grey flannel suit, and Rep ties to the camel overcoat, and features an unparalleled roster of high-profile political and cultural icons who have worn and made these pieces their own: from Abraham Lincoln and John F. Kennedy to Madonna, Lady Gaga, Grace Kelly, Katharine Hepburn, Miles Davis, and Andy Warhol, as well as TV and film stars in Glee, Gossip Girl, Mad Men, and Baz Luhrmann s The Great Gatsby. The text comprises interviews and personal anecdotes from the retailer s loyal clientele fashion designers, writers, and celebrities each sharing treasured memories and connections to Brooks Brothers. This dazzling volume invites readers to delve into the world of Brooks Brothers, providing insight into the people, places, and historical moments that have shaped and provoked the innovative yet timeless American institution, and is a must for those interested in fashion and American style.

Is it ever acceptable to "borrow" culturally inspired ideas? Who has ownership over intangible culture? What role does power inequality play? These questions are often at the center of heated public debates around cultural appropriation, with new controversies breaking seemingly every day. Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment offers a sociological perspective on the appropriation of race, ethnicity, class, sexuality, and religion embedded in clothing, textiles, jewelry, accessories, hairstyles and tattoos, as well as in entertainment, such as K-pop, Bhangra, and hip-hop. By providing a range of global perspectives on the adoption, adaptation, and application of both tangible and intangible cultural objects, Kawamura and de Jong help move the conversation beyond simply criticizing designers and creators to encourage nuanced discussion and raise awareness of diverse cultures in the creative industries.

Fashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain - separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked - this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fashion scholars to consider how global and local networks of dress dissemination converged to shape fashionable dress in Britain, and how British methods and aesthetics spread outwards across the world. From the drawing rooms of 19th-century London, to the verandas of 19th-century Australia, contributors to Disseminating Dress develop narratives of commodity and knowledge exchange to consider how fashion circulated.

Fashion is one of the defining features of human evolution and culture. Spanning from the first civilizations to today's most recent trends, this enlarged and updated edition of our bestseller analyses the importance and meaning of fashion via an in-depth approach and a rich selection of illustrations and photographs. It contains interpretative sketches and drawings of the clothes that are featured in paintings and works of art to provide an overall perspective on and a comprehensive understanding of fashion. The lavish visuals, which many other titles in this field lack, truly bring the clothes and fashion accessories to life. In this book, the reader will discover the beauty and mystery of fashion throughout the ages, the roles it has played in society and the creativity and inventive power it has held throughout history.

Despite its limited number of inhabitants and rather small surface, the Belgian province of Limburg has a great number of designers with an international reputation. Based on the 10 principles of good design by Dieter Rams this book discovers the roots of Limburg's top design of the last 25 years. With famous names such as Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, Bram Boo, Dieter Bikkembergs and Pieter Stockmans but also unknown or almost invisible design. With contributions by Jesse Brouns, Veerle Windels, Hettie Judah, Virginia Tassinari, Nik Baerten. Cultural platform Design supports and promotes designers and design made in Limburg. In collaboration with different partners they provide inspiring thinking patterns about design and create a dynamic climate for design in Flanders.

A unique monograph of over 50 collections created by the fashion designer Marc Jacobs in the past 25 years and illustrated by Grace Coddington

In 2016, internationally acclaimed designer Marc Jacobs commissioned his friend and talented illustrator Grace Coddington to select and draw her personal selection from his collections dating back to 1992, the year he presented his now-infamous grunge-inspired collection. Sofia Coppola contributes an introduction and the illustrations are punctuated with Jacobs's written commentary about the collections. Personal and insightful, this is the first look back on Jacobs's groundbreaking career.

This is an extraordinary account of a young Jewish girl whose childhood was torn apart by the Nazis, who made her way as a dancer, as an actress, as a designer, from Sofia to Vienna to London to Hollywood. Dora Reisser was highly successful in her three careers, and here she tells her heartrending, exciting story with humour and honesty - the little-known story of how Bulgaria's Jews survived the Holocaust, her life in post-war Vienna, and her rise to become one of the leading dancers in the Vienna Opera. A refugee from the Nazi regime as a child, Dora trained and danced with the Vienna Opera as their youngest solo dancer until an accidental fall in her late teens ended her dancing career. She then moved to London and studied theatre at the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art in London. After a career on British television, in a few Hollywood films and on the stage, she gave up her acting career to raise a family and, beginning in the 1980s, she became one of Britain's leading fashion designers. Dora went from wealth to poverty, heartbreak and danger, and bounced back again and again, with all the vigour and determination of a Jewish Scarlett O'Hara. She knew the world of Harry Lime and Bernie Cornfeld, the KGB and the early days of Israel, and had lovers along the way. She uniquely describes the hard and painful world of ballet, the exaltation of success, and the despair of a career tragically curtailed. We sometimes forget about the generation whose parents' lives were destroyed by Hitler and who had to reconstruct their souls amid the rubble and ruins that were all that was left of Old Europe. Dora's Story is a tale of triumph over every possible adversity, a story of terror and hunger and persistence. Above all, it is the tale of a survivor.

Through object-based case studies of garments from the ancient past through to the 21st century, Margaret Maynard reveals the countless ways the temporal is woven into our attire. From the physical effects of age on garments to their changing cultural significance, time and fashion are inextricably linked. Every garment has its own pace and narrative, and every dress practice is rich with temporal associations: 'wearing' time in the form wristwatches, marking key moments in time from marriage to death, 'defying' time with beauty products, preserving and re-imagining time through vintage, and concepts of 'timeless' and 'classic' styles. This ground-breaking book presents a complete rethinking of the study of global fashion history, revealing the complex nature of changing fashion when viewed through the lens of time and challenging Eurocentric approaches such as the periodization of style and the arbitrary division of 'western' and 'non-western' fashion. Fashion in Time is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and dress history, material culture studies, cultural anthropology, archaeology and related fields.

When she was 16, Tala Raassi went to a party. She talked to boys, and wore a mini-skirt. She was punished with 40 lashes and five days in jail. Growing up in Tehran, Tala learnt to use fashion as a getaway whenever she suffered from the restrictions of her society. Labeled a rebel with a propensity to break the rules, she quickly came to realise being hungry for freedom in Iran was a recipe for disaster. Tala's lashes served as a stark warning to her - she needed to escape. Moving to the USA, she was able to develop her own clothing label to massive success. But the cut-throat world of Western fashion wasn't exactly how she had imagined it. She witnessed first-hand the ups and downs of hard work, hard decisions, and hard truths. Fashion Is Freedom is an inspiring true story of how courage, a dream, and some needle and thread can change a life forever...

Dress is everywhere imbued with symbols that reflect different meanings in different contexts. This compelling book convincingly demonstrates how clothing is analogous to a working language and is similarly underpinned by deeper meanings and philosophies.From tattoos and mini-skirts, to skin decoration, makeup and hair, Calefato unpicks the multiple functions of modern dress. Exploring intriguing commonalities - for example, between tattooed Egyptian mummies of 2000 BC and modern subcultural styles - Calefato considers the psychological, cultural, spiritual and symbolic significances at play in what she aptly labels 'body cartography'. What we wear is a vehicle for the (often contentious) expression of politics, gender and identity, placing clothing at the root of a complex set of messages, many of which are paradoxical. Clothing may, for example, liberate through the pleasures of masquerade and at the same time 'cage' or control the body. The Clothed Body shows how semiotics can provide a convincing template for understanding dress in a wide range of contexts and will be essential reading for anyone interested in the meaning of what we wear.

Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.

On November 28, 1973, the world's social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening's spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story. At the Battle of Versailles, five Americans - Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows - faced off against the five French designers considered the best in the world - Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Against all odds, the American energy and the domination by their fearless models (ten of whom, in a ground-breaking move, were African-American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had transformed their place on the world stage and sowed the seeds for changing the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. The in-fighting between ego-inflated designers, the unforeseen obstacles instaging the show on a shoestring, the triumphant win, the vastly different fates of the designers post-show. Robin Givhan's meticulous research brings the event alive and places it firmly in the history of fashion, offering an intimate examination of a single moment that teaches us how the culture of fashion as we now know it came to be.

Miss Dior is a wartime story of freedom and fascism, beauty and betrayal and 'a gripping story' (Antonia Fraser). 'Exceptional . . . Miss Dior is so much more than a biography. It's about how necessity can drive people to either terrible deeds or acts of great courage, and how beauty can grow from the worst kinds of horror.' DAILY TELEGRAPH Miss Dior explores the relationship between the visionary designer Christian Dior and his beloved younger sister Catherine, who inspired his most famous perfume and shaped his vision of femininity. Justine Picardie's journey takes her to wartime Paris, where Christian honed his couture skills while Catherine dedicated herself to the French Resistance and the battle against the Nazis, until she was captured by the Gestapo and deported to the German concentration camp of Ravensbruck. Tracing the wartime paths of the Dior siblings leads Picardie deep into other hidden histories, and different forms of resistance and sisterhood. She discovers what it means to believe in beauty and hope, despite our knowledge of darkness and despair, and reveals the timeless solace of the natural world in the aftermath of devastation and destruction. *A beautiful, full colour package featuring over 200 archival images.* 'Extraordinary . . . Picardie uses her investigative reporting skills . . . the result is Netflix-worthy and the pace page-turning . . . Catherine's story shines - the quiet Dior who preferred flowers to fashion, the unsung heroine who survived the abuse of the Third Reich to help liberate France.' SUNDAY TIMES

1. Highlights recent advances in material science and armour technology 2. Provides information on computational methods for armour design 3. Discusses stress waves and penetration mechanics 4. Covers human vulnerability and reactive armour systems

Welcome to the world of the sharp-suited 'faces'. The Italianistas. The scooter-riding, all-night-dancing instigators of what became, from its myriad sources, a very British phenomenon. Mod began life as the quintessential working-class movement of a newly affluent nation - a uniquely British amalgam of American music and European fashions that mixed modern jazz with modernist design in an attempt to escape the drab conformity, snobbery and prudery of life in 1950s Britain. But what started as a popular cult became a mainstream culture, and a style became a revolution. In Mod, Richard Weight tells the story of Britain's biggest and most influential youth cult. He charts the origins of Mod in the Soho jazz scene of the 1950s, set to the cool sounds of Charlie Parker and Miles Davis. He explores Mod's heyday in Swinging London in the mid-60s - to a new soundtrack courtesy of the Small Faces, the Who and the Kinks. He takes us to the Mod-Rocker riots at Margate and Brighton, and into the world of fashion and design dominated by Twiggy, Mary Quant and Terence Conran. But Mod did not end in the 1960s. Richard Weight not only brings us up to the cult's revival in the late 70s - played out against its own soundtrack of Quadrophenia and the Jam - but reveals Mod to be the DNA of British youth culture, leaving its mark on glam and Northern Soul, punk and Two Tone, Britpop and rave. This is the story of Britain's biggest and brassiest youth movement - and of its legacy. Music, film, fashion, art, architecture and design - nothing was untouched by the eclectic, frenetic, irresistible energy of Mod.

From the first sketch to handling a prototype, Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is an all-inclusive overview of the entire design process. This second edition begins with an exploration of fashion in the context of different histories and cultural moments, before fashion designer, and educator John Hopkins walks you through fashion drawing, colour, fibres, research methods, and studio must-knows such as pattern making, draping and fitting. You'll also learn how to develop your portfolio and practice as a professional designer. Each of the six chapters ends with activities to help you hone your skills. Interviewees include Stefan Siegel (founder and CEO of Not Just A Label), Maggie Norris (Founder of Maggie Norris Couture and former designer at Ralph Lauren), Samson Soboye (Creative Director and Founder of Soboye Boutique) and Jessica Bird (a fashion illustrator, whose clients include Vivienne Westwood and matchesfashion.com). With discussion of the evolving role of social media and the practicalities of incorporating sustainability at the centre of the design process this is an essential text for any aspiring fashion designer.

The technical Become a Pattern Drafter series presents garment construction bases for the different sectors of ready-to-wear : Men, Women and Children. Using a simple, clear, logical, precise method, these books are conceived through a rational technique known as Flat Patternmaking which gives valid, key formulas to help construct any conceivable garment. The methods are accessible to everyone : those wanting to make unique creations for their family or those who wish to pursue a creative career in fashion as patternmakers, designers, product managers or clothing manufacturers. Pattern Grading, Men's Garments completes the clothing creation addressed in the previous work by explaining, step-by-step, how to change sizes. Conceived to meet the industry's needs, it addresses anyone with a passion for garment construction. The models explained are chosen specifically because an infinite number of models can be graded using the same principles. Both an introductory work and a reference document on grading techniques for Men's garments from shirts, vest, trouser up to the biggest parts as blazer, blouson, parka and coat.

How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping - there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH. This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.

Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.