Dress is everywhere imbued with symbols that reflect different meanings in different contexts. This compelling book convincingly demonstrates how clothing is analogous to a working language and is similarly underpinned by deeper meanings and philosophies.From tattoos and mini-skirts, to skin decoration, makeup and hair, Calefato unpicks the multiple functions of modern dress. Exploring intriguing commonalities - for example, between tattooed Egyptian mummies of 2000 BC and modern subcultural styles - Calefato considers the psychological, cultural, spiritual and symbolic significances at play in what she aptly labels 'body cartography'. What we wear is a vehicle for the (often contentious) expression of politics, gender and identity, placing clothing at the root of a complex set of messages, many of which are paradoxical. Clothing may, for example, liberate through the pleasures of masquerade and at the same time 'cage' or control the body. The Clothed Body shows how semiotics can provide a convincing template for understanding dress in a wide range of contexts and will be essential reading for anyone interested in the meaning of what we wear.

A unique monograph of over 50 collections created by the fashion designer Marc Jacobs in the past 25 years and illustrated by Grace Coddington

In 2016, internationally acclaimed designer Marc Jacobs commissioned his friend and talented illustrator Grace Coddington to select and draw her personal selection from his collections dating back to 1992, the year he presented his now-infamous grunge-inspired collection. Sofia Coppola contributes an introduction and the illustrations are punctuated with Jacobs's written commentary about the collections. Personal and insightful, this is the first look back on Jacobs's groundbreaking career.

Enter an ultra-patriotic era of "military mood" fashions, replete in red, white, and blue. One in a series of books from Schiffer Publishing documenting fashion trends in America, this is an invaluable resource for fashion designers looking to revive and rework retro styles, for costume designers working to recreate an era, and for collectors and historians wanting to document vintage clothing. A visual treasure chest, this book offers more than 400 full-color photographs, with thousands of items of clothing, shoes, and accessories pictured, along with detailed descriptions. A guide to retail values for these items on today's market is featured as well.

With The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric and Form: Contouring, Structure, Textile Designs Focusing on Concepts: Adaptation, Reduction, Zero Waste Online resources include a downloadable pattern block, which is available in US sizes 4-18. www.bloomsburyonlineresources.com/fashion-design-toolkit

Fashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain - separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked - this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shape this volume, which asks urgent questions about the extent of global influence on fashion, and the intertwining nature of written, printed, visual and material fashion news. This collection brings together innovative scholarship from an interdisciplinary group of historians, art historians and fashion scholars to consider how global and local networks of dress dissemination converged to shape fashionable dress in Britain, and how British methods and aesthetics spread outwards across the world. From the drawing rooms of 19th-century London, to the verandas of 19th-century Australia, contributors to Disseminating Dress develop narratives of commodity and knowledge exchange to consider how fashion circulated.

A sumptuous monograph tracing the life and legacy of fashion luminary Oscar de la Renta. In October 2014 one of the fashion world's champions, Oscar de la Renta, passed away, a great loss brightened by the innumerable successes of his half-century reign. The acclaimed fashion designer dressed first ladies from Kennedy to Obama, and celebrities from Beyonce to Sarah Jessica Parker. Renowned for his unique charm, impeccable taste, and original lifestyle, he married the highest standards of French couture with the ultimate motivation that women must look and feel beautiful. In this intimate volume, longtime editor and friend Andre Leon Talley recounts de la Renta's journey through nearly 70 iconic dresses, mainly made for private clients, accompanied by fascinating stories of the exquisite craftsmanship and the legendary friends that brought each gown to life. Born in the Dominican Republic in 1932, de la Renta left for Madrid at nineteen to study art, where he rose to prominence as a sketch artist for newspapers and fashion houses. From his apprenticeship under Cristobal Balenciaga to his eponymous collections, the designer's simple lines elevated with a flamenco dancer's flourish reflect his deep connection to his roots and his commitment to transcendence through beautiful garments.

What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von Busch sees fashion as a totalitarian state, with a population all too eager to enact the decrees of its aesthetic superiority. Peers police each other and deploy acts of judgment, peer-regulation, and micro-violence to uphold the aesthetic order of fashion supremacy. Using four design projects as tools for inquiry, Von Busch explores the seductive desires of envy and violence within fashion drawing on political theories. He proposes that the violent conflicts of fashion happen not only in arid cotton fields or collapsing factories, but in the everyday practice of getting dressed, in the judgments, sneers, and rejections of others. Indeed, he suggests that feelings of inclusion and adoration are what make us feel the pleasure of being fashionable-of being seductive, popular, and powerful. Exploring the conflicting emotions associated with fashion, Von Busch argues that while the current state of fashion is bred out of fear, The Psychopolitics of Fashion can offer constructive modes of mitigation and resistance. Through projects that actively work towards disarming the violent practices of dress, Von Busch suggests paths towards a more engaging and meaningful experience of fashion he calls "deep fashion."

The technical Become a Pattern Drafter series presents garment construction bases for the different sectors of ready-to-wear : Men, Women and Children. Using a simple, clear, logical, precise method, these books are conceived through a rational technique known as Flat Patternmaking which gives valid, key formulas to help construct any conceivable garment. The methods are accessible to everyone : those wanting to make unique creations for their family or those who wish to pursue a creative career in fashion as patternmakers, designers, product managers or clothing manufacturers. Pattern Grading, Men's Garments completes the clothing creation addressed in the previous work by explaining, step-by-step, how to change sizes. Conceived to meet the industry's needs, it addresses anyone with a passion for garment construction. The models explained are chosen specifically because an infinite number of models can be graded using the same principles. Both an introductory work and a reference document on grading techniques for Men's garments from shirts, vest, trouser up to the biggest parts as blazer, blouson, parka and coat.

This comprehensive study of womens and mens fashion accessories provides fashion merchandising students with a detailed analysis of the fashion accessory categories. Broken into three units, the text not only covers the major categories but provides an overview of the accessories business and discusses the materials used in the production of a variety of accessories.

Hawai'i is one of the most ethnically and racially diverse places in the world due to its central location in the Pacific. Situated at the crossroads of different cultures, Honolulu has a style all of its own. "Honolulu Street Style" captures this unique approach as it demonstrates how global trends are transformed by stylish Honolulu denizens to give them a unique, local look. Divided into chapters on hair, hats, accessories, and beachwear, the book features the styles of people encountered on the street and in many different neighborhoods, with an essay on the history and clothing of Hawai'i as a whole.
The neighborhood fashion explored includes that of iconic Waikiki which conjures images most people associate with Hawai'i, yet the mass-produced tourist clothing belies a deeper fashion culture hidden in local enclaves and local boutiques that foster an upscale, casual style. Chinatown is a neighborhood of dramatic color and exotic touches, and hosts "First Friday" events that transform the neighborhood into a crowded hub of artistic, musical, and retail activity. As the photos show, the Kaka'ako neighborhood draws a crowd that is hip, traveled, and not afraid to venture off the beaten path. In contrast, the Manoa valley, home to the flagship campus of the University of Hawai'i, presents itself as an eclectic mix of students and professionals dressed in everything from boho chic to surfer, skater, avant-garde, and casual professional style.
A highly visual book with full-color street style photography, "Honolulu Street Style" will be a landmark publication in the study of place and style.

This book is an essential and practical tool for designing and creating fashion accessories for men and women. Intended for fashion students and professionals, the book includes different pattern techniques for each accessory and explains production processes so that readers can incorporate them into their professional practice, in addition to identifying and providing the information needed to recreate a wide range of accessory models. It includes descriptions of materials, examples of patterns and designs and different possible finishes through illustrations, photographs, technical drawings and texts that clearly explain the production process of each artisanal and industrial piece. As items that provide personality and originality to one's personal style, fashion accessories have become essential to completing the "look" for each occasion. With the help of this manual, having in-depth knowledge about the creation of different pieces, from a bag to a pair of shoes to hats, gloves, ties and buttons -even clothing for dogs-, is a great way to get started in this branch of the fashion field.

Where do shoppers meet before heading out to browse the stores? Why might they go to a particular shop and not another? What first attracts them to a brand or garment? Visual merchandising is concerned with all these questions, spanning the relationship between consumer, environment, brand and product. As part of the Basics Fashion Management series, Bailey and Baker introduce the principles underpinning successful visual merchandising using examples from budget, mid-range and luxury brands. These real-world examples take the form of detailed case studies and interviews, providing hands-on advice from all levels of industry. This revised edition includes additional coverage of online visual merchandising, lighting techniques, mannequin dressing and integrating technology into displays.

Christian Dior was born in Granville, a seaside town on the coast of Normandy, France: while his family had hoped that he would become a diplomat, Dior preferred art. His preternatural talent resulted in him being hired by Robert Piquet in 1937, and subsequently worked alongside Pierre Balmain and Lucien Lelong. Dior was an instant sensation after the Second World War. His designs, which asserted femininity, were a strong rebuke to the utilitarian, unisex clothing of wartime and came to symbolise the 'New Look'. Dior had an extremely close relationship with his sister, Catherine - honouring her work during the war in the French Resistance with the popular perfume Miss Dior. She was his muse. The book features around 60 haute couture designs from the collections of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs along with an equivalent number of iconic pieces belonging to Dior Heritage (the house's own archives of original runway prototypes or garments ordered by clients), supplemented by fragrances and accessories. The items on display thus offer a panorama of Christian Dior's haute couture creations since 1947, always the epitome of modern elegance, with the selection taking as its unifying thread the fabric of dreams and the passing on of an aesthetic vision. Text in English and Arabic.

Trina Turk celebrates the 25th anniversary of the colorful, mid-century-inspired fashion and lifestyle brand by designer Trina Turk. This first-ever monograph on the Trina Turk aesthetic celebrates her distinctive patterns and sensibility. Explore the inspiration behind her clothing designs for women, the Mr. Turk menswear collection, swimwear, and home goods. * Features Turk's distinctly designed retail stores * Celebrates the architecturally significant homes she has restored * Includes many of her signature bold and colorful textile patterns Essays by Booth Moore, Barbara Bestor, and Simon Doonan each provide insight on a specific aspect of Trina Turk-the designer, and her eponymous brand. This stunning monograph makes a great gift for mid-century architecture, design, and lifestyle fans. * Cloth wrapped in her vibrant and colorful 25th anniversary patterned fabric and brimming with gorgeous photography * Perfect for fans of Trina Turk, as well as those who love Palm Springs design, vintage clothing, interior design, and more * Gorgeous on display on the coffee table

The most colorful and complete book published on the most enduring souvenir ever invented: the Hawaiian shirt. Beautifully illustrated with hundreds of images, this book recounts the colorful stories behind these marvelous shirts: as cultural icons, evocative of the mystery and the allure of the islands, capturing the vibe of the watermen culture and lifestyle -- casual, relaxed, and fun. Valued by professional collectors and by millions of vacationers and fashionistos, these shirts are enjoying a fashion revival. Drawing from hundreds of interviews, newspaper and magazine archives, and personal memorabilia, the author evokes the world of the designers, seamstresses, manufacturers, and retailers who created the industry and nurtured it from its single-sewing-machine-shop beginnings to an enterprise of international scope and importance and its revival today. The Aloha Shirt is both a dazzling, fun-to-browse art book, and a fascinating chronicle of the world's love affair with Hawaii.

From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century "star" designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

"The book is an excellent resource for students in identifying the range of positions they can have in the fashion industry. Interviews with professionals are included to aid students in decision making about careers choices." - Lori Faulkner, Ferris State University, USA Learn what to expect on the job, required education and training, and the relationship of the role to the fashion industry as a whole. Among the more than 75 role descriptions are four new roles for Sustainability Officer, Transparency Officer, Data Analyst, and Reference Librarian. More than 175 images show you recent developments affecting the industry sectors and career opportunities. Case studies, Social media Strikes features, chapter summaries, key terms, online resources, discussion questions, and a glossary will help you identify which careers match your aptitudes, skill sets, and interests. New to this Edition * In-depth job descriptions for a wider range of careers expanded to include Technical Designer, Brand Marketing Manager, and Spreader and Cutter, among others * New sections on recycling and sustainability, trends in brand marketing, and portfolio development and presentation * Fully updated online resources throughout the book * Updated Case Studies in Career Exploration boxes showcase profiles of companies, interviews with individuals, industry scenarios, and insider tips * Updated Appendices include sample resumes and career positions sorted by career areas, with Web links to salary and benefit information The Fashion Industry and Its Careers STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

This highly acclaimed study explores Kafka's early dandyism and interest in fashion, literary decadence, and the `superficial' spectacle of modern urban life as well as his subsequent repudiation of these phenomena in forging a literary identity as isolated, otherwordly `poet' of modern alienation. In its discussion of Jugendstil aesthetics, Otto Weininger's `egoless' woman, the Viennese critique of architectural ornament, the clothing-reform movement, anti-Semitism, and the question of Jewish-German writing, Kafka's Clothes paints a startlingly unconventional portrait of Kafka and Prague at the turn of the century.

A great book for expressing your creative fashion urges, with doodling, drawing and colouring exercises to fill in.Fashion illustrator and lecturer Frances Moffatt provides suggestions and half-filled pages of drawings and doodles for you to continue. Including sections on designing your own fashion blog, creating your own festival fashions, styling street style models from across the globe, adding bling to celebrity pets and creating your own fashion patterns and prints. This book is packed full of fun exercises to get creative and bring out the fashionista in you. Unleash your creative potential by adding colour, patterns and glitter to these line drawings to make them unique to your style. Whether it's a simple colouring-in piece, or a more considered drawing, the suggestions offer something for everyone and encourage you to make the book about your own style.

Intended for fashion students and fashion designers, this fabric book is indispensable for sourcing and selecting textiles for fashion. It will guide you to the perfect fabric for every design, helping you find the ideal material to achieve the desired effect and recommending different ways to use it. With a revised and updated selection of photographs from fashion shows that exemplify current fashion trends in which the collections of such renowned designers as Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Vuitton, Vivian Westwood, van Herpen, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein appeared, the book shows you how some of the most emblematic names in fashion today use fabrics to achieve the highest expression of their creativity. This updated and enlarged edition also includes a detailed technical and historical introduction on the types of fabrics and their classification, the relationship between fabric and the fashion industry and the aesthetic, emotional, commercial and social aspects involved. This fabric bible is sure to become essential reading for all aspiring and experienced dressmakers and fashion designers.

Clothing appears in all forms of figurative painting, often taking up two thirds of a frame; yet it can often go unnoticed. Far more than a simple means of identifying the status or occupation of a figure, clothes and cloth are used creatively by artists to hint at ambiguities in character, adjust the emotional temperature, direct the eye or make subtle allusions. Drawing on works by artists over a period of six centuries, from Giotto to El Greco, Matisse to Cindy Sherman, the author reveals through paintings, fashion plates, photographs and film stills how drapery in art evolved from Renaissance extravagance to Neoclassical simplicity at the end of the 18th century, and has extended to infinite uses in all genres of Modern art. First published in 2002 to accompany an exhibition of the same name at the National Gallery, London, this beautifully illustrated - and beautifully written - book by pioneering art historian and critic Anne Hollander, is reissued with a new Foreword by Valerie Steele. As penetrating and insightful as when it was first published, it remains a must-read for today's generation of students and anyone with an interest in art and fashion.

An enduring classic since its publication in 1970, "Mastering Witchcraft" is one of the best how-to manuals for those wishing to practice traditional European Witchcraft as a craft rather than a New Age religion. Starting from first principles, Huson instructs the novice step by step in the arts of circle casting, blessing and banning, the uses of amulets and talismans, philters, divination, necromancy, waxen images, knots, fascination, conjuration, magical familiars, spells to arouse passion or lust, attain vengeance, and of course, counter-spells to exorcize and annul the malice of others. "A genuine "vade mecum.""-"The Catholic Herald."

This is a vivid record, in words, illustrations and working diagrams, of a section of women's clothing design from 1600 to 1930. The author was in charge of costume at the Theatre Studio run by Michel Saint-Denis in the 1930s.