This book can be read through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement Hair, or lack of it, is one the most significant identifiers of individuals in any society. In Antiquity, the power of hair to send a series of social messages was no different. This volume covers nearly a thousand years of history, from Archaic Greece to the end of the Roman Empire, concentrating on what is now Europe, North Africa, and the Near East. Among the key issues identified by its authors is the recognition that in any given society male and female hair tend to be opposites (when male hair is generally short, women's is long); that hair is a marker of age and stage of life (children and young people have longer, less confined hairstyles; adult hair is far more controlled); hair can be used to identify the 'other' in terms of race and ethnicity but also those who stand outside social norms such as witches and mad women. The chapters in A Cultural History of Hair in Antiquity cover the following topics: religion and ritualized belief, self and society, fashion and adornment, production and practice, health and hygiene, gender and sexuality, race and ethnicity, class and social status, and cultural representations.

Alan Flusser believes that dressing well is something every man can readily accomplish. In this newly abridged and updated edition of Style and the Man, Flusser shares his vast knowledge of men's clothes and provides essential information for anyone interested in savvy attire. This elegantly written treatise will arm any man with a connoisseur's knowledge of the dos and don'ts of buying and wearing quality clothes and how much they should cost, from dinnerwear to casual sportswear. This book is also a veritable encyclopedia on individualizing questions about fabric, quality, and fit, as well as the appreciable and qualitative distinctions between clothes of different prices and makes. Open Style and the Man to discover: the difference between a $395 and a $1,000 suitwhat two words to look for on a costly dress shirt's labelwhy the folds in a cummerbund should always be worn facing up

From the tuxedo to the Top-Sider, Alan Flusser explains the sartorial origins and modern applications of haberdashery. All a man has to do is tuck this book into a corner of his suitcase or back pocket, and he'll be armed with an insider's knowledge of how to guide the tailor or salesperson in fitting or choosing those clothes that will become long-term players in his maturing wardrobe and personal style.

Find your unique fashion illustration style with Draw Fashion Now! Draw Fashion Now is a combination how-to guide and workbook that teaches the best techniques for illustrating and envisioning 21st-century fashion. Professional fashion illustrator Danielle Meder shares lessons she's learned over fourteen seasons of sketching fashion and style in every fashion capital, offering readers solid illustration techniques that demystify the enigma of fashion "attitude." Start by learning the development and rendering process of contemporary male and female figures, each in three essential fashion poses--runway, street style, and red carpet. Then, master basic sketching through rendering garments and fabrics directly on the figure in a range of mediums, both traditional and digital with plenty of blank space throughout to sketch and draw alongside the given examples! Become an expert at "fashion on the fly" quick sketches for when inspiration strikes while viewing runway or street style. Two beautiful, sophisticated paper dolls are also included, with contemporary, high-fashion wardrobes by critically acclaimed designers to dress them up!Draw Fashion Now is a uniquely creative and interactive learning experience for fashion illustrators, designers, and enthusiasts at all levels of experience.

On April 24, 2021, the designer Alber Elbaz passed away due to complications from Covid-19. The artistic director of the House of Lanvin from 2001 to 2016, he was the most consequential figure from the fashion community lost to the pandemic. Love Brings Love, the celebration of Alber Elbaz s life and work that concluded Paris Fashion Week on October 5, 2021 remains a unique event in the recent history of the industry. In tribute, 44 designers, from nearly all the French and Italian maisons, to his dear friends in Japan and the United States, created dresses for a memorial fashion show the first collaborative one to have ever been held in Paris. Of the over 70 looks, thirty were by Alber, posthumously executed by his team at AZ Factory. The international fashion community came as one family to publicly mourn and remember one of their own, with a reverence and affection reserved only to someone so universally and genuinely loved. The book is divided into three parts, which includes texts written by Alber prior to his passing, a sequence of sketches by 44 designers/maisons, including Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons, Giambattista Valli, Gucci, John Paul Gaultier, Rick Owens, Valentino, on uncoated stock, and a section of completed dresses, including dresses designed by Alber, on matte coated stock. The sequence describes in ways both conceptual and material how his friends and peers saw him, and how they intimately honored his memory with their own work.

Gianni Versace created a fashion house that, as British Vogue declared, defined late twentieth-century glamour, invented the supermodel and sanctioned in the public consciousness a supremely self-assured feminine sexuality.' His debut line in 1978 was instantly successful; in the Eighties, his extravagant designs and his vision of powerful women defined the era, and culminated in the Nineties with the supermodel phenomenon - his designs worn by those glamazons who featured on every Vogue cover. Vogue on: Gianni Versace explores how his childhood spent in his mother's dressmaker's shops, his Italian hometown of Reggio Calabria, and his family, particularly his younger sister, Donatella, influenced not only the designer he became - the insistent sensuality, vivid colours, classical motifs, clashing prints and daring cuts - but also the way he constructed his business: family first. The book reveals how the more brazen elements of his design - the jewelled embroidery, the bondage straps, the safety-pin gowns - were predicated on supremely skilled tailoring, deft use of materials and innovative techniques. Alongside are Vogue's eye-witness accounts of the Versace lifestyle - the palazzos and parties, the art, the celebrity friends. Vogue on: Gianni Versace is a celebration of a designer and a house that, in only 19 years, came to dominate the catwalk and the red carpet.

In Exquisite Slaves, Tamara J. Walker examines how slaves used elegant clothing as a language for expressing attitudes about gender and status in the wealthy urban center of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Lima, Peru. Drawing on traditional historical research methods, visual studies, feminist theory, and material culture scholarship, Walker argues that clothing was an emblem of not only the reach but also the limits of slaveholders' power and racial domination. Even as it acknowledges the significant limits imposed on slaves' access to elegant clothing, Exquisite Slaves also showcases the insistence and ingenuity with which slaves dressed to convey their own sense of humanity and dignity. Building on other scholars' work on slaves' agency and subjectivity in examining how they made use of myriad legal discourses and forums, Exquisite Slaves argues for the importance of understanding the body itself as a site of claims-making.

As a glance down any street in America quickly reveals, American women have forgotten how to dress. We chase fads, choose inappropriate materials and unattractive cuts, and waste energy tottering in heels when we could be moving gracefully. Quite simply, we lack the fashion know-how we need to dress professionally and flatteringly.As historian and expert dressmaker Linda Przybyszewski reveals in The Lost Art of Dress , it wasn't always like this. In the first half of the twentieth century, a remarkable group of women,the so-called Dress Doctors,taught American women how to stretch each yard of fabric and dress well on a budget. Knowledge not money, they insisted, is the key to timeless fashion. Based in Home Economics departments across the country, the Dress Doctors offered advice on radio shows, at women's clubs, and in magazines. Millions of young girls read their books in school and at 4-H clothing clubs. As Przybyszewski shows, the Dress Doctors' concerns weren't purely superficial: they prized practicality, and empowered women to design and make clothing for both the workplace and the home. They championed skirts that would allow women to move about freely and campaigned against impractical and painful shoes. Armed with the Dress Doctors'simple design principles,harmony, proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis,modern American women from all classes could learn to dress for all occasions in a way that made them confident, engaged members of society.A captivating and beautifully-illustrated look at the world of the Dress Doctors, The Lost Art of Dress introduces a new audience to their timeless rules of fashion and beauty,rules which, with a little help, we can certainly learn again.

Stories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place follows the journeys of five companies with evolving sustainable supply chains in the fashion and textile industry. Each of the profiled companies are committed to advancing cultural traditions of a particular place. They value, honor, and are all deeply rooted in the geography, culture, and people of a specific location and their success is attributable to their connection to that place. With this shared value, their unique stories highlight the conditions, risks, strategies, and successes in creating and maintaining sustainable supply chains for ready-to-wear and home fashions. The companies include: -Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company - Oregon, USA -Angela Damman Yucatan - Yucatan, Mexico -Tonle - Phenom Penh, Cambodia -Indigenous Designs - Highlands, Peru -Harris Tweed (R) - Outer Hebrides, Scotland, UK With a focus on economic, social, environmental, and cultural sustainability, and the connection between textiles and place, Burns and Carver offer personal and insightful narratives of companies addressing the challenges facing today's global fashion industry.

Born in 1995 in Ho Chi Minh City, Eris Tran has led a dream life, one of his own choosing in haute couture fashion illustration. His reputation is international; his clients are among the elite in fashion design; and his drawings are bewitching yet disciplined. He perfectly captures the intricate detail of fabrics, be they delicate silks, bold brocades, or diaphanous sheers. At the same time, Tran combines humour with a touch of the avant-garde, and the effects are both magical and audacious. With more than 200,000 followers on Instagram (@eris_tran), and a favourite of such houses as Alexander McQueen, Dior, Armani, Marchesa, Givenchy, Versace, and many others, including many emerging designers from Asia, Eris Tran interprets haute couture in a style perfectly suited to the times. This, his first book, is a showcase of Tran's stunning work for some of the world's best designers over the past few years. Featuring over 200 colour illustrations and his own commentary throughout, Dressing in Dreams is a book no true connoisseur of high fashion should be without.

From the internationally prestigious fashion brand, British Vogue, comes this gorgeous celebration of the must-have fashion accessory: the handbag "Any woman can wear shoes and handbags: it's not a question of how tall you are, how skinny you are, how blonde or blue-eyed or tanned or whatever." - Marc Jacobs Carolyn Asome reveals the fashion accessory that can make any woman feel fabulous - from the myriad surrealist creations of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel to Prada's democratic nylon backpack, from the exclusive Hermes Birkin bag to individual vintage gems, the handbag is fashion's most inventive accessory. No shock, then, that the handbag market today is worth more than a hundred billion dollars. From each season's must-have to five-figure rarities, the handbag symbolizes the inexplicable power of fashion desire. Vogue Essentials: Handbags explores all the greatest hits in a collection that any fashion devotee will covet. This irresistible series from Conran Octopus and British Vogue explores the key pieces in a stylish woman's wardrobe and features photographs from Vogue's peerless archive of more than a million pictures.

This collection of articles and essays from magazines, newspapers, books, and academic journals is designed to expand the reader's awareness and understanding of the role dress plays in cultures and subcultures across the globe. The text, which represents the very best thinking and writing on the subject today, explores essential topics such as dress and sociology, cultural studies, gender, religion, modesty, and technological changes. The Meanings of Dress, 3rd Edition is newly revised to reflect the current cultural landscape and includes more theory than previous editions, as well as an increased emphasis on the male perspective. The book provides design and merchandising students with insight into how - and why - consumers buy clothing and other products related to dress, and helps them to hone their trend forecasting skills. Instructors, contact your Sales Representative for access to Instructor's Materials.

Pull back the curtain on making fun and innovative costumes and accessories incorporating technologies like low-cost microprocessors, sensors and programmable LEDs. Fashion tech can require skills in design, pattern-making, sewing, electronics, and maybe 3D printing. Besides the tech skills, making a good costume or accessory also requires knowledge of the intangibles of what makes a good costume. This book is a collaboration between two technologists and a veteran teacher, costumer, and choreographer. Regardless of whether you are coming at this from the theater costuming, sewing, or electronics side, the authors will help you get started with the other skills you need. More than just a book of projects (although it has those too), Practical Fashion Tech teaches why things are done a certain way to impart the authors' collective wealth of experience. Whether you need a book for a wearable tech class or you just want to get started making fantastic costumes and wearables on your own, Practical Fashion Tech will get you there. What you will learn: The fundamentals of both the sewing and the technology aspects of wearable tech for fashion How to make a memorable costume that reacts to its wearer or environment Ideas for using this book as a textbook Who this is for: Electronics enthusiasts, hipsters, costume designers, teachers, and students who want to learn how to make fashion or cosplay wearables. Cosplay fans wanting to incorporate sensors and more into their costumes.

Tokyo is home to a creative and daring street-style scene, rich with subcultures and shaped by constant motion. In Tokyo Street Style, fashion writer Yoko Yagi explores influential trends, covering an eclectic range of styles from kawaii cute to genderless looks, while designers, editors, models, stylists, and other important personalities in the Tokyo fashion scene share their individual approaches to style in interviews. Moving from a glimpse of the outrageous fashion found on the streets of Harajuku to everyday-chic work and weekend attire, this comprehensive guide offers a lively overview of an extraordinary urban culture with a rich collection of inspirational photographs and practical guidance for cultivating Tokyo style, no matter where you live. Concluding with a curated selection of the best boutiques and vintage stores, along with some of the most fashionable places to eat and drink, Tokyo Street Style is a colorful lookbook and travel guide filled with insight from Japan's most fascinating tastemakers.

Featuring easy-to-follow instructions on all the main basic and intermediate skills required to sew garments from a pattern, Fashion Sewing: Introductory Techniques is an excellent resource for fashion design students who want to improve their sewing skills. The book includes advice on setting up the home sewing studio, an introduction to fabrics, a fitting guide and a wide range of basic and intermediate techniques on stitches, seams, hems and fastenings.Featuring comprehensive instructions, accompanied by large, clear illustrations, this book enables readers to visualize each action and apply key sewing techniques to their own projects.

This book reveals the impact of wartime and austerity on British fashion and tells the story of how a spirit of patriotism and make-do-and-mend unleashed a wave of new creativity among women who were starved of high fashion by shortages and rationing. Many home dressmakers copied the high-end looks, and women involved in war work created a whole new aesthetic of less formal street wear. Fashion in the 1940s also shows how the Second World War shifted the centre of the international couture scene away from Paris, allowing British designers to influence Home Front style. Afterwards Paris fashion was re-born with Dior's extravagant New Look, while casual American trends were widely adopted by young British women and men.

As a cultivated form of invention, product design is a deeply human phenomenon that enables us to shape, modify and alter the world around us - for better or worse. The recent emergence of the sustainability imperative in product design compels us to recalibrate the parameters of good design in an unsustainable age. Written by designers, for designers, the Routledge Handbook of Sustainable Product Design presents the first systematic overview of the burgeoning field of sustainable product design. Brimming with intelligent viewpoints, critical propositions, practical examples and rich theoretical analyses, this book provides an essential point of reference for scholars and practitioners at the intersection of product design and sustainability. The book takes readers to the depth of our engagements with the designed world to advance the social and ecological purpose of product design as a critical twenty-first-century practice. Comprising 35 chapters across 6 thematic parts, the book's contributors include the most significant international thinkers in this dynamic and evolving field.

This seminal text demystifies the terminology of working in the fashion industry today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials, new technologies, and processes. This book has been reorganized in a purely alphabetical order for easy reference. Lavishly illustrated with over 800 illustrations capturing the styles and details of fashion, this reference work is a must have for students, designers, fashion merchandisers, librarians, and fashion enthusiasts. The fifth edition also includes online availability to vocabulary and image flashcards via STUDIO for easy on-the-go access.

This entertaining A to Z follows the success of the popular V&A guides to Style and Hollywood Style. Compiled by Kate Bethune, it brings together style tips, pithy advice and engaging opinions in a beautiful book that will make a perfect present for anyone getting ready for a wedding, or indeed recovering from one. Where fashion has always moved on swiftly from season to season, bridal wear can keep a trend or style current for several years or longer - maintaining perennial favourites and occasional revivals. Concentrating on wedding style, but also featuring thoughts on etiquette and history, this book captures some of the abiding wisdom and witticisms that surround the Happy Day.

Previous work discussing Black beauty has tended to concentrate on Black women's search for white beauty as a consequence of racialization. Without denying either the continuation of such aesthetics or their enduring power, this book uncovers the cracks in this hegemonic Black beauty. Drawing on detailed ethnographic research amongst British women of Caribbean heritage, this volume pursues a broad discussion of beauty within the Black diaspora contexts of the Caribbean, the UK, the United States and Latin America through different historical periods to the present day. With a unique exploration of beauty, race and identity politics, the author reveals how Black women themselves speak about, negotiate, inhabit, work on and perform Black beauty. As such, it will appeal not only to sociologists, but anyone working in the fields of race, ethnicity and post-colonial thought, feminism and the sociology of the body.

Fashion is all around us, and so too is fashion journalism. Discussions of fashion proliferate in an ever-increasing range of media, from newspapers and magazines to tweets and TV programs. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory and Practice is an accessible, comprehensive guide to writing about fashion in any form, whether in style blogging, magazine interviews, news reportage or art reviews. Exploring what sets fashion journalism apart from other forms of journalistic writing, the book features a wide range of global fashion case studies, from Carmel Snow's reporting on Dior's 'New Look' to 1970s responses to Yves Saint Laurent, and Diana Vreeland's role as a fashion editor. Through a series of engaging exercises, you will learn how to find inspiration, carry out successful research, structure your work logically, use a style appropriate to your readership, and to make the leap from descriptive writing to informed analysis and criticism. Engaging and clearly written, Fashion Journalism examines how recent technological developments are shaping and driving fashion journalism, and delves into the theory and practice of writing about fashion.

As famous as the stars he photographed, Brian Duffy defined the image of Swinging London in the 1960s. Together with David Bailey and Terence Donovan, Duffy is recognised as one of the innovators of 'documentary' fashion photography, a style which revolutionised the industry. Their attitude and aesthetic iconified the scene, birthing the cult of the fashion photographer and inspiring the famous film Blow-Up (Michelangelo Antonioni, 1966). As Duffy put it, "Before 1960, a fashion photographer was tall, thin and camp. But we three are different: short, fat and heterosexual!" The press nicknamed the three photographers 'The Terrible Three', while Norman Parkinson added to their notoriety by naming them 'The Black Trinity'. Duffy's most famous photograph is the 'Mona Lisa of pop', the cover of Bowie's 'Aladdin Sane'. He collaborated with the artist over eight years and exerted a direct influence on the numerous reinventions of Bowie's image. It is fitting, therefore, that this new edition should expand on their work together with new images. This new edition of Duffy also features other, new images from the photographer's archive, depicting both star and photographer in their prime. Duffy's first commission came from Ernestine Carter, the then fashion editor of The Sunday Times. From there he was hired by British Vogue in 1957, where he remained working until 1963, photographing famous models such as Pauline Stone and Jean Shrimpton. In the 1960s Duffy worked for many of the major fashion magazines; his list of subjects was a roll call of the celebrities of that time, including Sidney Poitier, Michael Caine, Tom Courtney, Sammy Davis Jnr, Nina Simone, John Lennon, Paul McCartney, Charlton Heston and William Burroughs. He was also critically acclaimed for his advertising campaigns with Benson & Hedges and Smirnoff. Notoriously, in 1979 Duffy decided to give up photography, burning many of his negatives in a symbolic fire in his back yard - although he would later take up the camera again at the behest of his son. Thankfully, many of these negatives have been discovered and salvaged since. Duffy died on 31 May 2010. "Duffy and aggravation go together like gin and tonic." - David Bailey

The sweeping crinolines, corsets, bustles, bonnets and parasols of Victorian Britain are indispensable to our period dramas, and their influences can still be seen within burlesque and steampunk fashions. This is no surprise, as nineteenth-century clothing was so wide-ranging and decorative. We might unfairly think gentlemen's costume to be rather plain and uniform, but this is more by contrast to the overwhelming ostentation, luxury fabrics, fine accessories and constantly evolving silhouettes of ladies' fashion. This colourful introduction to what the Victorians wore describes the vibrant, fancy materials and lace edging at one end of the spectrum, and the tightlaced sobriety of mourning apparel at the other. It examines both high fashion imports from Paris and more modest everyday wear, evening costume, bridal styles, children's clothes and sportswear, and explores the social and cultural backdrop to clothing in Britain's great age of industry and empire.