It was a scene that had many names: some original members referred to themselves as punks, others, new romantics, new wavers, the bats, or the morbids. "Goth" did not gain lexical currency until the late 1980s. But no matter what term was used, "postpunk" encompasses all the incarnations of the 1980s alternative movement. "Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace "is a visual and oral history of the first decade of the scene. Featuring interviews with both the performers and the audience to capture the community on and off stage, the book places personal snapshots alongside professional photography to reveal a unique range of fashions, bands, and scenes.
A book about the music, the individual, and the creativity of a worldwide community rather than theoretical definitions of a subculture, "Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace" considers a subject not often covered by academic books. Whether you were part of the scene or are just fascinated by different modes of expression, this book will transport you to another time and place.

This book explores the 'craft of use', the cultivated, ordinary and ingenious ideas and practices that promote satisfying and resourceful use of garments, presenting them as an alternative, dynamic, experiential frame with which to articulate and foster sustainability in the fashion sector. Here Kate Fletcher provides a broad imagining of sustainability in fashion that gives attention to tending and wearing garments, and favours their use as much as their creation. She offers a diversified view of fashion beyond the market and the market's purpose and reveals fashion provision and expression in a world not dependent on continuous consumption. Framing design and use as a single whole, the book uncovers a more contingent and time-dependent role for design in sustainability, recognising that garments, while sold as a product, are lived as a process. Drawing from stories and portrait photography that document the ways in which members of the public from across three continents use their clothes, and the work of seven international design teams seeking to amplify these use practices, Craft of Use presents a changed social narrative for fashion, borne out of ideas of satisfaction and interdependence, of action, knowledge and human agency, that glimpses fashion post-growth.

Chanel suits, Louis Vuitton bags and Omega watches are now objects that embody a globalized material culture. Over the past 30 years, the luxury goods industry has undergone a tremendous expansion around the world. However, it remains largely dominated by European companies, ranging from diversified conglomerates such as LVMH and Richemont to independent companies such as the Italian fashion houses Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna, and industrial groups like Swatch and L'Oreal or new start-ups such as Richard Mille. How and why did these companies succeed? How did they manage to transform a sector previously dominated by small family firms into a global big business? Selling Europe to the World presents the development of the global luxury goods industry from the 1980s to the present day. It highlights the strategies implemented by a new generation of entrepreneurs and explains, beyond the glamorous image conveyed by luxury brands, the sources of success of these firms. An essential book for understanding the success of the contemporary luxury industry.

Foreword by Anya Hindmarch Decade by decade, the lavishly illustrated Vintage Handbags recounts over 100 years of handbag history, from Elsa Schiaparelli's mesh bags for Whiting & Davis in the 1920s through the Hermes Kelly bag in the 1950s to the Fendi Baguette of the 1990s. Accompanied by archive images, fashion photography and specially commissioned photographs of period pieces, the most collectible and beautiful handbags are showcased. An invaluable and visually stunning reference, the book explores the key designers, technical developments and cultural influences that shaped handbag design, revealing exquisite and groundbreaking work from such luminaries as Salvatore Ferragamo, Coco Chanel, Hermes, Fendi, Bonnie Cashin and Judith Leiber.

Perfect for students of costume design and history, A Handbook of Costume Drawing illustrates and describes the dominant male and female costume silhouettes for major historical periods ranging from Egyptian dynasties through the 1960s. Important details, including head and footwear, hair styles, fashion accessories, shoulders, waist, hem, and neckline are provided to maximize the historical accuracy of each design and to help you fully recreate the look and feel of each period.

From fashion aficionados to casual wearers, this sumptuous book is the perfect companion for Birkenstock’s loyal fans on the company’s 250th anniversary.

The Birkenstock brand is adored the world over for its function-first footwear and commitment to high-quality European production. Its sandals and famous cork footbeds have filtered into countless cultures and subcultures over many decades. The rich visual history of the Birkenstock brand and the creativity it has inspired over the years is gathered here in book form for the first time.

The Book of Birkenstock provides a lush, image-led history of the company, its family origins in shoemaking and its relationship with the health and fashion industries. It also offers a peek behind the scenes into the company’s German production and world-leading design processes that form the Birkenstock footbed, appreciated by millions of wearers. Enhancing this narrative, The Book of Birkenstock is not just a publication but a premium product in itself, mirroring the brand’s dedication to excellence. It boasts beautiful printing and finishing, with a debossed cover for a tactile sense of luxury. This attention to detail ensures that each page turn is an experience in itself, inviting readers not only to engage with the content but also to appreciate the fine craftsmanship of the book.

Published in 2024, a landmark year for Birkenstock in which it celebrates its 250-year family tradition in shoemaking, this project is a testament to Birkenstock’s enduring legacy and a celebration of its continuous influence on footwear and fashion.

A virtual pageantry of the many ways in which military styles inspire and influence contemporary fashion The transformation of military clothing into popular retail fashion has a long history. In fact, the designs of some of today's most popular styles, worn for the most peaceful purposes, actually originated in clothing intended for warfare. In a campaign to dress well, combat and battle rarely, if ever, enter the picture. This book celebrates the enduring appeal of military-inspired clothing and acts as a reference guide and source of inspiration for designers and fashion followers alike.

Special Make-Up Effects concentrates on the genre of horror characters and other special creations (fantasy, sci-fi, etc), giving tips about the materials, techniques, and 'tricks of the trade' necessary to create unique make-up effects. This focused volume is a scaled-down version of Vincent Kehoe's encyclopedic reference for professional make-up artists. It contains new segments and photographs. This book shows how many of cinema's most famous characters and effects were developed. It gives students and make-up artists the techniques they need to perform their own magic.

Textiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.

Learn how to develop, launch and build a successful fashion brand with this definitive textbook which explores the realities of the contemporary fashion industry. Fashion Brand Management is a complete guide to operating a fashion business in a multi-trillion revenue industry. Written by a leading innovator in the space, it describes how to gain competitive advantage, meaningfully embrace sustainability and purpose and successfully market to and engage consumers. Balancing theory with practical applications throughout, it also explores the key business models and financial management processes used in the industry and how fashion brands can build entrepreneurial advantage. Exploring the key challenges and opportunities for today's fashion businesses both large and small, Fashion Brand Management examines supply chain disruption, social selling and technological innovations including the metaverse, digital collections and blockchain. Featuring case studies from a range of innovative global brands including Ecoalf, MWHQ, Pala Eyewear and Unhidden, in-text features include learning objectives, key terms and activities. With supporting online resources consisting of lecture slides, self-test questions, group activities and worksheets, this is an essential resource for fashion students.

This book explores the 'craft of use', the cultivated, ordinary and ingenious ideas and practices that promote satisfying and resourceful use of garments, presenting them as an alternative, dynamic, experiential frame with which to articulate and foster sustainability in the fashion sector. Here Kate Fletcher provides a broad imagining of sustainability in fashion that gives attention to tending and wearing garments, and favours their use as much as their creation. She offers a diversified view of fashion beyond the market and the market's purpose and reveals fashion provision and expression in a world not dependent on continuous consumption. Framing design and use as a single whole, the book uncovers a more contingent and time-dependent role for design in sustainability, recognising that garments, while sold as a product, are lived as a process. Drawing from stories and portrait photography that document the ways in which members of the public from across three continents use their clothes, and the work of seven international design teams seeking to amplify these use practices, Craft of Use presents a changed social narrative for fashion, borne out of ideas of satisfaction and interdependence, of action, knowledge and human agency, that glimpses fashion post-growth.

Classic workwear, sports and military clothing in a new mini format. Curated by connoisseurs of vintage clothing, the Vintage Showroom is a vast collection of rare 20th-century pieces that fashion designers and stylists pay to view, using the cut and detailing of individual garments as inspiration for their own work. Offering one-of-a kind access, Vintage Menswear now makes this unique resource available in book form. Featuring 130 of the most influential examples of 20th-century and earlier European, American and Asian utilitarian tailoring and design, the book is divided into three sections of sportswear, militaria and workwear, covering everything from 1940s flying jackets and polar exploration suits to vintage French denims. Stunning full-page bleeds and front and back views showcase ground-breaking designs in concept, shape and cut. Providing over 300 lavishly illustrated pages of rare, must-see designs, Vintage Menswear is the essential choice of 20th-century vintage tailoring and detailing and an inspirational resource for students and menswear fashion designers and stylists.

This beautifully illustrated book reveals the sharp pleats, high collars, gleaming pastes, colourful beads, elaborate buttons and intricate lacework that make up some of the garments in the Victoria and Albert Museum's extensive fashion collection. With an expertly written text by one of the museum's fashion curators and exquisite colour photography of garment details, complemented by line drawings and photographs, the reader has the unique opportunity to examine up close historical clothing that is often too fragile to be on display. It is an inspirational resource for students, collectors, designers and anyone who is fascinated by fashion and costume. This new edition features an updated design, fresh content and new research, and an introduction that focuses on the makers and processes involved in producing 18th-century fashion.

Japanese Wonder Knitting offers the perfect foray into the techniques and application of Japanese-style knitting. Japanese knitting dictionaries have quickly become the favorite go-to reference for experienced knitters all around the world, and Japanese Wonder Knitting takes this trend a step further, giving step-by-step lessons in executing classic stitches the Japanese way. Like its companion volume, Japanese Wonder Crochet, this book introduces needleworkers to a whole new approach to classic stitches such as bubble stitches, herringbone, cockleshell, cables, smocking, entrelac and more. A swatch pattern is provided for each stitch to help knitters learn the mechanics of the stitch before applying them to larger projects. The personal and home accessory projects included provide something for every level of time commitment. A total of 23 projects are presented in this book, including: Cozy hats and neckwear Head bands for warmth and style Beautiful clutches and bags An amazing entrelac stitch shawl Clever boot liners/ankle warmers And so much more! An introduction by Japanese knitting expert Gayle Roehm explains the stitch charts as well as the differences and similarities between Japanese and Western styles of knitting. A guide to stitch symbols and extensive lessons provide visual guidance. With this book and a little practice, knitters who love Japanese knitwear and patterns will be ready to try their hand at the many wonderful fashions and home goods so many Western knitters love to make.

Dressy men as a type of celebrity have played a distinctive part in the cultural - and even in the political - life of Britain over several centuries. But unlike the twenty-first-century hipster, the dandies of the British past provoked intense degrees of fascination and horror in their homeland and played an important role in British society from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. This book - illustrated with contemporary prints, portraits and caricatures - explores that social and cultural history through a focus on the macaroni, the dandy and the aesthete. The first was noted for his flamboyance, the second for his austere perfectionism and the third for his sexual perversity. All were highly controversial in their time, pioneering new ways of displaying and performing gender, as demonstrated by the impact of key figures such as Lord Hervey, George 'Beau' Brummell and Oscar Wilde. This groundbreaking study tells the scandalous story of fashionable men and their clothes as a reflection of changing attitudes not only to style but also to gender and sexuality.

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. This sixth volume of Medieval Clothing and Textiles ranges widely, as ever, across England and Europe. It presents two groundbreaking articles in novel areas of textile and dress scholarship: an introduction to a previouslyunexamined class of embroidery (decorative manuscript repair), and an English-language overview of scholarly research on historical dress in Latvia. Among the other topics considered in the volume are two very different listingsof clothing items from medieval Germany: an invented lexicon by the mystic Hildegard of Bingen, and an accounting of specific real garments worn by ordinary people and donated to finance the building of Strasbourg Cathedral. Papers also consider the mercantile world of clothing in medieval London: one gathers insight on dealers of secondhand clothing from the evidence of historical documents, while the other examines the social rise of the mercers in the light of their representation in literature, and their connections to the literary world. Further articles consider luxurious dress accessories with both worldly and spiritual significance, and analyse a French manual for Englishhousewives, illuminating the often-overlooked topic of home linen production. Contributors: Hilary Davidson, Ieva Pigozne, Valerie L. Garver, Christine Sciacca, Sarah L. Higley, William Sayers, Roger A. Ladd, Kate KelseyStaples, Charlotte A. Stanford

Imagine stepping into someone else's shoes. Walking back in time a century ago, which shoes would they be? A pair of silk sensations costing thousands of pounds designed by Yanturni of Paris, or wooden clogs with metal cleats that spark on the cobbles of a factory yard? Would your shoes be heavy with mud from trudging along duckboards between the tents of a front-line hospital or stuck with tufts of turf from a football pitch? Would you be cloaked in green and purple, brandishing a 'Votes for Women' banner, or would you be respectably dressed, restricted by your thigh-length corset? Great War Fashion opens the wardrobe of women in the years before the outbreak of war to explore the real woman behind the stiff, mono-bosomed ideal of Edwardian society, and closes it on a new breed of women who have donned trousers and overalls to feed the nation and work in munitions factories and who, clad in mourning, have loved and lost a whole generation of men. The journey through Great War Fashion is not just about the changing clothes and fashions of the war years - it is a journey into the lives of the women who lived under the shadow of war and were irrevocably changed by it. Using material from her own extensive collection, renowned costume expert Lucy Adlington brings an inspiring generation of women to life with rare and stunning images alongside a narrative that is both deeply poignant and laugh-out-loud funny.

This book presents full step-by-step instructions for the making of early 17th-century men's clothes and accessories in a technically accurate, visually exciting and easy-to-follow format. Twelve garments - all historical pieces from the Victoria and Albert Museum's collections - are featured: a suit, three doublets and a cloak, as well as a felt hat, an embroidered nightcap and a plain nightcap liner, a pasteboard picadil, a sword girdle and hangers, a pair of mittens and a linen stocking. They have been analysed so that every aspect of the pattern is exact. Scale patterns and precise construction diagrams are accompanied by colour photography of the whole garment as well as an abundance of informative details and X-ray photographs that reveal the hidden structure of each piece, showing the precise number of layers and the types of stitches used inside. The methods and techniques of historical tailoring and plain sewing are shown in detail. The authors have some of the best historical tailoring skills in the world and have worked with world-renowned institutions such as the Globe Theatre in London, creating award-winning costumes for film, stage and television. This book is a unique resource for costume and fashion designers, fashion historians and students.

Featuring detailed analyses of clothing culture in 17th-century provincial Sussex, this original study draws on previously unexploited sources to create an intimate and nuanced portrait of people and their clothes. An introductory chapter uses 17th-century literature to identify and explore contemporary ideas about clothing, the individual and society, as well as the relationship between London and the provinces and the causes and consequences of conspicuous clothing consumption. Subsequent chapters look at the production, distribution and acquisition of clothing in Sussex and the participation of consumers in these processes; the role of London as a centre of fashionable clothing consumption and the experience of wealthier consumers in shopping there; the clothing worn by individual men, women and older children of the 'middle' and 'better' sort and the extent to which they participated in contemporary, London-driven, fashion culture. A final chapter examines the clothing worn by the poor, including vagrants, parish paupers and the 'labouring' poor. With over 40 images Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England offers a new window onto early modern experiences of clothing.

Benjamin on Fashion reconstructs and redefines Walter Benjamin's complex, fragmentary and yet influential fashion theory that he developed in the Arcades Project (1927-1940) and beyond, while situating it within the environment from which it emerged - 1930s Parisian couture. In this insightful new book, Philipp Ekardt brings Benjamin into discussion with a number of important, but frequently overlooked sources. Amongst many others, these include the German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced him to the contemporary fashion scene; Georg Simmel's fashion sociology; Henri Focillon's morphological art history; designs by Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet; films by L'Herbier and others starring Mae West; and the photography of George Hoyningen-Huene and Man Ray. In doing so, Ekardt demonstrates how fashion and silhouettes became grounded in sex; how an ideal of the elegant animation of matter was pitted against the concept of an obdurate fashion form; and how Benjamin's idea of 'fashion's tiger's leap into the past' paralleled the return of 1930s couture to the depths of (fashion) history. The use of such relevant sources makes this crucial for understanding Benjamin both as a thinker and a cultural theorist.

"The sustainable fashion revolution has begun, and we must all be part of it." - Alois Guinut Stylish women everywhere are realizing the environmental damage of fast fashion and looking for new ways to dress that don't involve cramming their wardrobe with clothes that may never get worn. As Paris-based style-coach Alois Guinut explores in this invaluable book, French women have a lot to teach us about how to cherish the planet without sacrificing your style: - Know what works for you. - Buy less and buy better. - Mix vintage items with a few wisely chosen modern pieces. - Optimize your closet. - Look after what you have and make it last. - Seek out quality fabrics that don't poison the environment.

In this vibrant blend of Marie Kondo and Iyanla Vanzant, the "First Lady of Beauty" and trusted lifestyle expert Mikki Taylor shares uplifting advice for women who want to cultivate their own unique brand of beauty both inside and out in this "master class on beauty, wellness, purpose, and what it means to live in your power zone" (Gabrielle Union, actress and New York Times bestselling author). From dress code to life code, Mikki Taylor shares hundreds of her favorite secrets, including the five products you need to perfect your complexion; the genius ingredient for living in heels; how to be frugal and look fabulous; unexpected drugstore buys that give your everyday look a wake-up call; rules for mastering eye-catching makeup and the perfect red lips; what really has the power to motivate or defeat you; why being "risk adverse" is to be "success adverse" and much more. Whether you're standing in front of the mirror debating what to wear to a last-minute event or trying to hold your peace in the middle of a confrontation, Editor in Chic gives you the tools and confidence to be your best self every single day. "Mikki Taylor is like that trusted friend who has to remind you of the power that was on you all along. From life-affirming lessons, to beauty, style, and insider secrets every woman will treasure--Editor in Chic is gold" (Tina Knowles-Lawson, designer and philanthropist).

Everyone knows Steve Madden's name and his shoes, but few are familiar with his story. Over the past thirty years Steve Madden has taken his eponymous shoe company from the fledgling start up he founded with a mere $1,100 to a global, multi-billion dollar brand. But Madden's mistakes, from his battle with addiction to the financial shortcuts that landed him in prison, are as important to his story as his most iconic shoes. In this raw, intimate, and ultimately inspiring book, Madden holds nothing back as he shares what it took to get here and the lessons he's learned along the way. From his unconventional hiring strategies to his slavish devotion to product, Madden offers a business perspective that is as unique as his styles. In The Cobbler, readers are treated to the wild ride though his rise, fall, and comeback. But they will also walk away uplifted by a man who has owned up to his mistakes and come back determined to give back and use his hard-won platform to create positive change.