Fashion is both big business and big news. From models eating disorders and sweated labour to the glamour of a new season's trends, statements and arguments about fashion and the fashion industry can be found in every newspaper, consumer website and fashion blog. Books which define, analyse and explain the nature, production and consumption of fashion in terms of one theory or another abound. But what "are" the theories that run through all of these analyses, and how can they help us to understand fashion and clothing?

"

Fashion Theory: an introduction" explains some of the most influential and important theories on fashion: it brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion every day and shows how they depend on those theories. This clear, accessible introduction contextualises and critiques the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used different theoretical approaches to explain and sometimes to explain away the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Through engaging examples and case studies, this book explores:

• fashion and clothing in history
• fashion and clothing as communication
• fashion as identity
• fashion, clothing and the body
• production and consumption
• fashion, globalization and colonialism
• fashion, fetish and the erotic.

This book will be an invaluable resource for students of cultural studies, sociology, gender studies, fashion design, textiles or the advertising, marketing and manufacturing of clothes."

The antique beaded bag is a most exquisite and sought-after vintage collectible. Over 600 detailed color photographs display hundreds of mostly European (French, Italian, Austrian, and Czechoslovakian) handbags, many never before published, including Miser, American Indian, embroidered, drawstring, framed, scenic, Bohemian, and cut steel, with information on care, history, and design techniques, and close-up photographs of the intricate beadwork. Detailed captions, a current value guide, a comprehensive bibliography, and an index guarantee this to be the ultimate collector's guide to vintage handbag fashion design.

Learn how to create historically accurate costumes for Elizabethan period productions with Elizabethan Costume Design and Construction! Extensive coverage of a variety of costumes for both men and women of all social classes will allow you to be prepared for any costuming need, and step-by-step instructions will ensure you have the know-how to design and construct your garments. Get inspired by stunning, hand-drawn renderings of costumes used in real life productions like Mary Stuart as you're led through the design process. Detailed instructions will allow you to bring your designs to life and create a meticulously constructed costume.

This practical book explains how to achieve great designs and creative cuts by seeing ideas come to life three dimensionally. By manipulating and pinning fabric on the dress form or house model, fashion designers can visualise their ideas and become more confident with their own creative visions. This new book includes advice on how to measure the body, as well as prepare the mannequin and fabric; it explains the draping process in detail with step-by-step instructions and practical tips throughout. It gives advice on working at half scale and provides calico preparation diagrams. Finally, there are chapters which introduce new design elements and/or garment type, and covers dresses, skirts, shirts and blouses. Written by a leading designer, Draping for Fashion Design is an essential guide to this skill (also known as 'moulage'), and explains how the fashion designer can understand their designs more fully, as well as the fabric and the garment's fit, in order to achieve impressive and sometimes unexpected results.

During her 40-year career, Margit Koppendorfer has designed costumes for the greats of theatre history: characters from Shakespeare, Brecht, and Handke, directed by Berghaus, Peymann, and Tabori, performed in Vienna, Zurich, and Berlin. Margit Koppendorfer: Costume Designs presents Koppendorfer's often life-sized mixed-media design sketches on transparent paper and reveals through these unique illustrations how the costume designer accords identity to the characters. By alienating the real in a visionary way, a latent truth emerges. While author Elfriede Jelinek and actress Maria Happel emphasise in their texts the masterful embodiment of the costumes, and of their characters, Margit Koppendorfer herself says of her work, "I dance into the set with my characters." Text in English and German.

There is always another old dress lurking around the corner, waiting to be "rescued", says Kristina Harris. A cornucopia of 403 full-color photographs, of fun, sophisticated, frivolous, and glamorous fashions on live models include rich satin evening gowns, fun flapperish beaded dresses, sleek and classic suits, knickered and skirted bathing suits, distinctive cloche hats, beaded bags, elaborate shoes, and a splendid host of accessory items. From whimsical anecdotes to wonderful historical details that help bring the era alive, this book conveys a vivid picture of the women of Jazz and Big Band era. Garnish this with specific and sound advice on using style, construction, and other details to value, identify, date, and further enhance items in your collection. A value guide is included to help experienced collectors and novices alike as they search for new discoveries. For everyone who has admired the fashions of the 20s, 30s and 40s, this book will be treasured possession.

This irresistible, authorized, illustrated gift book from the luxury brand Hermes is an homage, in stories and drawings, to the artisans and craftsmen who have been the foundation of the iconic brand since its beginnings as a saddle-maker for the carriage trade in 19th-century Paris. The stories are short, pithy, often quite witty, and they include first-person accounts from the leather artisans, silk manufacturers, and goldsmiths, gardeners, window dressers, designers, and electricians who have plied their craft at Hermes.We learn about quirky characters in the atelier who refuse to share their tools, of an elevator ride with a visiting President Nixon that went badly wrong, of a life-sized white rhinoceros made for a window display that disappears in Switzerland, reappears in Colorado, and returns, eventually, to Paris. A concise and witty company history, the book shares genuine love for the craft of producing luxury goods of the highest quality. Even if you can't afford to buy your partner a Hermes bag or wallet, you can afford to give them this enchanting book.

To work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.

Sleek. Chic. Notoriously guarded. Welcome to the secret world of Gabrielle Chanel.

The story of Chanel begins with an abandoned child, as lost as a girl in a dark fairy tale. Unveiling remarkable new details about Gabrielle Chanel's early years in a convent orphanage and her flight into unconventional adulthood, Justine Picardie explores what lies beneath the glossy surface of a mythic fashion icon.

Throwing new light on her passionate and turbulent relationships, this beautifully constructed portrait gives a fresh and penetrating look at how Coco Chanel made herself into her own most powerful creation. An authoritative account, based on personal observations and interviews with Chanel's last surviving friends, employees and relatives, it also unravels her coded language and symbols, and traces the influence of her formative years on her legendary style.

Feared and revered by the rest of the fashion industry, Coco Chanel died in 1971 at the age of eighty-seven, but her legacy lives on. Drawing on unprecedented research, Justine Picardie brings her fascinating, enigmatic subject out of hiding and uncovers the consequences of what Chanel covered up, unpicking the seams between truth and myth in a story that reveals the true heart of fashion.

Cosmetics and tobacco are two of the 20th century's most fascinating fashion influences, for they inspired new accessories for the well-dressed woman. This book highlights the evolution of popular vanity cases by investigating materials from compact, cigarette case and lighter manufacturers. The book begins with a history of cosmetics, and their impact on society, and goes on to show how compacts evolved to hold cosmetics and who fashioned them. The tobacco-related containers are also traced from their beginnings to the establishment of a new line of accessories for both men and women. Through her newly revised text and hundreds of color photographs and advertising pieces of examples arranged chronologically, the author provides a wealth of information in this growing collector's field.

Goths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures of recent times. The dedication of those involved to a lifestyle which, from the outside, may appear dark and sinister, has spawned reactions ranging from admiration to alarm. Until now, no one has conducted a full-scale ethnographic study of this fascinating subcultural group. Based on extensive research by an 'insider', this is the first. Immersing us in the potent mix of identities, practices and values that make up the goth scene, the author takes us behind the faade of the goth mystique. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, Hodkinson details the inner workings of this intriguing group. Defying postmodern theories that claim media and commerce break down substantive cultural groupings, Hodkinson shows how both have been used by goths to retain, and even strengthen, their group identity. Hodkinson provides a comprehensive reworking of subcultural theory, making a key contribution to the disciplines of sociology, cultural studies, youth studies, media studies, and popular music studies. Readable and accessible, this groundbreaking book presents a unique chance to engage with a contemporary, spectacular culture.

A collection of essays and photos that will inspire you to celebrate life's memorable moments The newest book in the bestselling kate spade new york series, celebratethat, picks up where all in good taste left off and joyfully "celebrates" the way that kate spade women know how. From the little things in life to the big moments, celebratethat is a collection of essays, photos, and illustrations that illuminate the ways the kate spade woman takes everyday moments and makes them extraordinary. Featuring the signature kate spade design and aesthetic, this book is the ultimate gift for any and every occasion. What better way is there to celebrate Kate Spade's memory than with celebrate that?

Exploring 35 years of creative output, this richly illustrated book offers an unprecedented look into Giorgio Armani's unique aesthetic, corporate and cultural strategies. More than any other designer, Armani best represents the global success of the 'Made in Italy' label. His impact is palpable not simply in women's fashion and red carpet glamour, but is also inseparable from the evolution of the menswear industry. Written in a lively and accessible style, the book includes thoughtful and provocative chapters exploring: the evolution of the man's suit; boutique culture in a global reality; the influence of Orientalism; the designer's ambivalent relationship with the fashion press; the business of vertical branding; the use of the evening dress to construct the house's history; power dressing for the modern woman; the relationship between textiles, film and the contours of masculinity; the continued dialogue with early twentieth-century aesthetics; as well as the spaces and bodies of the theatre of fashion. The first holistic and critical investigation of one of the most influential fashion houses in the world, Giorgio Armani: Empire of the Senses is a must read for anyone interested in the history and theories of fashion.

Here is an exciting new installment in a series from Schiffer Publishing illustrating fashion trends in America. These books are a fantastic resource for costume designers looking for new ideas to recreate an era, for collectors who want to broaden their search for vintage clothing, and for fashion designers looking to revive retro styles. From hats to handbags, and dresses to dungarees, this book brings to life every necessity of the late 1940s with authentic details from the original Sears catalogs. Displaying the fashions and trends of post-War America. The clothing reflects a social revitalization after years of hardship and strife, with an emphasis on children with the post-War baby boom, the influence of French and European styles, and a return to femininity for women following the 'Rosie the Riveter' era. Juniors' skirts flare in anticipation of circle skirts, complete with big motifs. Men's suits are flatteringly tailored to emphasize long torsos and narrow hips, and casual wear stresses a return to the concerns of bowling and hunting. An excellent visual reference, this book offers more than 300 full-color and black and white photographs, and thousands of items of clothing, shoes, and accessories, along with detailed descriptions. A guide to retail values for these items on today's market is included as well.

Mario Testino is recognized as the ultimate fashion photographer of his generation but his pictures of Kate Moss transcend fashion. The result of two decades of extraordinary friendship, and phenomenal glamour, this iconic collaboration is an intimate insight into the lives and minds of two of the world's definitive style leaders. This book follows the journey of this exceptional fashion partnership, from early days backstage at the shows to behind-the-scenes glimpses of the groundbreaking editorials they continue to produce for the world's most respected magazines. Of the 100-plus images, many photographs have been chosen from Testino's private archive and are published here for the first time. They are accompanied by a foreword by Testino and an exclusive essay by Kate Moss.

A beautifully illustrated journey through the history of travel-and traveling in style-from one of the world's preeminent fashion brands The mid-19th and early 20th centuries heralded new means of transport and equipment and, with them, new and original ways of exploring the world. Transatlantic liners, automobiles, long-haul airplanes, zeppelins, and express trains unfurled new horizons and changed travel itself into an adventure. Distant lands were no longer solely accessible to aristocrats, explorers, and adventurers. Instead, the world opened up to new groups of people eager to circumvent the globe. And for many of these new globetrotters, traveling was synonymous with Louis Vuitton, the French label whose iconic and functional luggage trunks could be found on nearly every boat, plane, car, and train around the world. In this beautiful book, author Francisca Matteoli recounts 50 tales of thrilling travel undertaken in every possible mode of transit, from the hot air balloon to the space shuttle, each lavishly illustrated with more than 300 historical photographs and ephemera from Louis Vuitton's official archives. Louis Vuitton: Extraordinary Voyages is a journey all its own-an evocative and transporting account of the most surprising and transformative trips taken since the 19th century.

Terence Donovan (1936-1996) was one of the foremost photographers of his generation, with a career spanning almost 40 years. He came to prominence in London as part of a post-war renaissance in art, design and music, representing a new force in fashion and, later, advertising and portrait photography. He operated at the heart of London's Swinging Sixties, both as participant in, and observer of, the world he so brilliantly and incisively captured with his camera. Born into a working-class family in East London, Donovan was fascinated by photography and printmaking from an early age. He opened his own studio in 1959 at the age of twenty-two and was immediately sought after by a range of clients, including leading advertising agencies and fashion and lifestyle magazines of the time, including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Elle. Terence Donovan: 100 Fashion Photos brings together the very best of his fashion photography, from his ground-breaking work in the sixties to the superlative glamour of the supermodels of the nineties. Gifted with an unerring eye for the iconic as well as the transformative, Donovan was a master of his craft, a technical genius who pushed the limits of what was possible with a camera. This stylish book contains some of his most famous shots, as well as previously unseen images, and is a perfect gift for lovers of both fashion and photography.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Fans--they are mysterious and magical, and have been elevated to an art form by the great artists and decorators. They can be viewed as a tangible extension of femininity, style, and elegance. This book tells the fascinating tale of the fan as both a charming fashion accessory and a sophisticated mirror reflecting the changes in fashion and culture over time. Covering medieval times to the twentieth century, individual chapters trace the history of fans and their relationship to the major fashion trends of each era. Over 255 images, including dramatic original photos as well as historical illustrations, showcase fans made of paper, silk, lace, wood, celluloid, feathers, and more. Different shapes and styles of fans are featured, including fixed, pleated, and brise fans, souvenir fans, even several restored fans shown in "before and after" photos. An outstanding resource for fashion historians, students, designers, collectors, and aficionados, this unique study of the fan and its relationship to fashion will be of great interest to anyone who appreciates beautiful clothing and beautiful accessories.

A sumptuous monograph tracing the life and legacy of fashion luminary Oscar de la Renta. In October 2014 one of the fashion world's champions, Oscar de la Renta, passed away, a great loss brightened by the innumerable successes of his half-century reign. The acclaimed fashion designer dressed first ladies from Kennedy to Obama, and celebrities from Beyonce to Sarah Jessica Parker. Renowned for his unique charm, impeccable taste, and original lifestyle, he married the highest standards of French couture with the ultimate motivation that women must look and feel beautiful. In this intimate volume, longtime editor and friend Andre Leon Talley recounts de la Renta's journey through nearly 70 iconic dresses, mainly made for private clients, accompanied by fascinating stories of the exquisite craftsmanship and the legendary friends that brought each gown to life. Born in the Dominican Republic in 1932, de la Renta left for Madrid at nineteen to study art, where he rose to prominence as a sketch artist for newspapers and fashion houses. From his apprenticeship under Cristobal Balenciaga to his eponymous collections, the designer's simple lines elevated with a flamenco dancer's flourish reflect his deep connection to his roots and his commitment to transcendence through beautiful garments.

Over the years, various garments have become increasingly popular collectible items as they grant insight into the cultures in which they were made. Collectors who love the sand, sun, and surf will delight in this extraordinary guide to handsome Hawaiian clothing. Filled with over 460 beautiful photos, this book gives a historical account of Hawai`i's fashion industry and its effect on the Western world. Unique island designs, exotic fabrics, and traditional garments--including the holoku and mu`umu`u--are all included within this spectacular display of Hawaiian paradise. Generations of tourists to Hawai`i will enjoy the explanations of clothing designs unique to the islands, and designers will find this an invaluable and inspiring reference tool.

Mid-1930s clothing for men, women, and children are presented in 300 color photographs from the Sears catalogs. See the popular styles of dresses, suits, coats, and sleepwear; as well as hats, shoes, and undergarments. Printed and solid fabrics are shown with customary accessories and in the latest styles available. Today's fashion designers will find the pages inspiring, and vintage clothing collectors will enjoy authentic designs.

Replacing buttons, darning socks and other mending skills have largely been lost to the decades. Yet, as the eco-conscious are ditching fast fashion, these techniques are being rediscovered as easy methods to revamp wardrobes with personal flair-hello, visible mending-and sustainability. In Wear, Repair, Repurpose Lily Fulop welcomes beginner and experienced makers with projects to refresh their wardrobes, make the most of thrift store finds and give worn-out cloth new life. Illustrated step-by-step instructions demystify mending techniques and skill-based projects will inspire readers to embrace their own personal style. Learn to darn socks, hem trousers, embroider over stains, and crochet and braid rugs. For anyone who cares about reducing fashion waste but doesn't want to sacrifice style, this is the immersive guide you need.