In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Bronte, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Gorgeous paper constructions expand on Hermès scarf designs in this luxury pop-up book.

Every year, the iconic luxury brand Hermès chooses a new theme to celebrate its creative direction for the upcoming year. This practice began in 1987, marking the brand s 150th anniversary, and has since become a beloved tradition a way to combine the house s proud, storied heritage with its creative vision for the future.

This year s theme is Let s Play , and Hermès is celebrating in style with this new, deluxe pop-up book. Featuring a selection of fourteen of the house s iconic square scarf designs, both old and more recent, this book brings the designs alive with exhilarating ingenuity. Delicate paper constructions bring out the depth and volume within the scarf designs; zebras rear up, delicately arching trees grow from the page and painterly strokes detach themselves from the paper surface. This is the Hermès carré as you ve never seen it before.

For Hermès, a brand associated with the highest quality luxury materials and design, play is movement, freedom, imagination, fantasy, seduction, lightness. Impeccably produced, Hermès Pop Up gives readers the chance to play around in the brand s archives.

Previous work discussing Black beauty has tended to concentrate on Black women's search for white beauty as a consequence of racialization; the idea that beauty is a form of social capital and that light skin and straight hair ensure one's upward mobility in the labor market and in society. Without denying either the continuation of such aesthetics or their enduring power, this book uncovers the cracks in this hegemonic Black beauty; cracks which become clear if viewed through the lens of the performativity of everyday practices of stylization and the continuing significance of discourses of Black anti racist aesthetics. Drawing on detailed ethnographic research amongst British women of Caribbean heritage, this volume pursues a broad discussion of beauty within the Black diaspora contexts of the Caribbean, the UK, the United States and Latin America through different historical periods to the present day. With a unique exploration of beauty, race and identity politics, the author reveals how Black women themselves speak about, negotiate, inhabit, work on and perform Black beauty. Rather than dwelling on the workings of racialized beauty standards, this book reveals how women work with and against existing beauty paradigms to bring new Black beauty ideals into view at the level of the everyday. As such, it will appeal not only to sociologists, but anyone working in the fields of race, ethnicity and post-colonial thought, feminism and the sociology of the body.

Fashion is all around us: we see it, we buy it, we read about it, but most people know little about fashion as a business. Veronica Manlow considers the broader signifi cance of fashion in society, the creative process of fashion design, and how fashion unfolds in an organizational context where design is conceived and executed. To get a true insider's perspective, she became an intern at fashion giant Tommy Hilfi ger. Th ere, she observed and recorded how a business's culture is built on a brand that is linked to the charisma and style of its leader.

Fashion firms are not just in the business of selling clothing along with a variety of sidelines. Th ese companies must also sell a larger concept around which people can identify and distinguish themselves from others. Manlow defi nes the four main tasks of a fashion fi rm as creation of an image, translation of that image into a product, presentation of the product, and selling the product. Each of these processes is interrelated and each requires the eff orts of a variety of specialists, who are often in distant locations. Manlow shows how the design and presentation of fashion is infl uenced by changes in society, both cultural and economic. Information about past sales and reception of items, as well as projective research informs design, manufacturing, sales, distribution, and marketing decisions.

Manlow offers a comprehensive view of the ways in which creative decisions are made, leading up to the creation of actual styles. She helps to defi ne the contribution fashion fi rms make in upholding, challenging, or redefi ning the social order. Readers will fi nd this a fascinating examination of an industry that is quite visible, but little understood.

David Bowie's career as a pioneering artist spanned nearly 50 years and brought him international acclaim. He continues to be cited as a major influence on contemporary artists and designers working across the creative arts. Published to accompany the blockbuster international exhibition launched at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, this is the only book to be granted access to Bowie's personal archive of performance costume, ephemera and original design artwork by the artist, and brings it together to present a completely new perspective on his creative work and collaborations. The book traces his career from its beginnings in London, through the breakthroughs of Space Oddity and Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars, and on to his impact on the larger international tradition of twentieth-century avant-garde art. Essays by V&A curators on Bowie's London, image, and influence on the fashion world, are complemented by Howard Goodall on musicology; Camille Paglia on gender and decadence and Jon Savage on Bowie's relationship with William Burroughs and his fans. Also included is a discussion between Christopher Frayling, Philip Hoare and Mark Kermode, held at the V&A, of Bowie's cultural impact. Over 300 images include personal and performance photographs, costumes, lyric sheets giving an unique insight into Bowie's world.

Draft patterns and sew clothes that fit your unique body! In this garment-making primer, sewing is an act of radical kindness and self-care. Learning to sew for yourself enables you to make exactly the kinds of clothes you want, and empowers you to solve the fit issues that come with buying commercial clothing designed to fit one 'ideal' body type. Sanae Ishida, author of the award-winning Sewing Happiness, guides you through the process with her inspiring personal story and gentle instruction in the simple art of pattern-making and garment sewing. Create a complete capsule wardrobe of tops, bottoms, dresses, tunics, and outerwear. Each of the 15 projects (including variations) is designed to look good on a wide variety of body types - they're fashionable yet timeless, and let you move with ease. Every pattern is self-drafted (no printed pattern sheets here - you will learn to draft and customize basic shapes to your own body measurements for a comfortable fit). Patternmaking has never been easier than in this intuitive, fully illustrated book.Includes: Lookbook with photographs of the projects on diverse models Primer on basic sewing, pattern drafting (slopers and muslins), and fitting Step-by-step illustrated instructions for all 15 projects and variations Heartwarming personal essay on the author's journey to body positivity

Described by an admirer as 'the High Druidess of fashion, the Supreme Pontiff, Perpetual Curate and Archpresbyter of elegance, the Vicaress of Style', Diana Vreeland is the cloth from which 21st-century fashion editors are cut. Diana joined Harper's Bazaar in 1936, where her pizzazz and singular point of view quickly made her a major creative force in fashion. During her time at Harper's Bazaar and later as the editor-in-chief of Vogue, the self-styled 'Empress of fashion' launched Twiggy's career, advised Jackie Kennedy, and enjoyed the full swing of sixties' London. In Diana's Vogue, women were encouraged to resist fashion orders from on high, and to use their own imaginations in re-creating themselves - much as Vreeland spent her own life doing. In this book, Amanda Mackenzie Stuart portrays a visionary: a fearless innovator who inspired designers, models, photographers and artists. Diana Vreeland reinvented the way we think about style and where we go to find it. As an editor, curator and wit, she made a lasting mark and remains an icon for generations of fashion lovers.

Known internationally and variously described as the Godfather of Streetwear and one of the founding fathers of Tokyo's Harajuku scene, Hiroshi Fujiwara exerts a disproportionate influence over contemporary design culture. Fujiwara, who had collaborated with the likes of Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood as a teenager in the early 1980s, merged a seminal interest in punk with hip-hop and skate culture to become one of Japan's principal tastemakers. A musician and producer, Fujiwara is also one of the most prolific of sneaker designers, and his kicks are some of the most sought-after collectibles. In addition to his very visible and longstanding collaborations with Nike, he has authored a number of fashion lines, and is at the head of the Tokyo-based Fragment Design. Maintaining his reign as the arbiter of hip for over 30 years, this book presents the breadth of his career, including sections on his highly sought after artwork and graphics, sneakers, product design, and curated personal effects. With an introduction by Eric Clapton and contributions by Takashi Murakami, Mark Parker, Jean Touitou, Nigo, Sarah Lerfel, this graphically inspired book provides a unique glimpse into one of the most influential tastemakers of our time.

From the award-winning costume designer of Amazon Prime Video's The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, a collection of the show's costumes, with never-before-seen photography, sketches, production stills, and more Amazon Prime Video's Emmy- and Golden Globe-winning series The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel centers on Miriam "Midge" Maisel, a 1950s New York City woman whose seemingly perfect life suddenly takes an unexpected turn, taking her from a comfortable life on Riverside Drive through the basket houses and nightclubs of Greenwich Village as she embarks on a groundbreaking standup comedy career. Created by Amy Sherman-Palladino (creator and showrunner of Gilmore Girls), and starring Rachel Brosnahan, Alex Borstein, and Tony Shalhoub, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel has garnered fan and critical praise alike, with much of the attention focused on the exquisitely designed period costumes. Madly Marvelous: The Costumes of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel explores the inner workings of award-winning costume designer Donna Zakowska's process, as well as the many inspirations for the show's wardrobe, including period photography, American and European fashion trends, and the various cultures and countercultures of late-1950s New York. The clothes of Mrs. Maisel are gorgeous, authentically detailed, and carefully crafted. Illustrated with sketches, photographs from Zakowska's workspace, behind-the-scenes shots, and production stills, the book follows the series from season to season, showing how the vocabulary of fashion-context, style, color, cut, accessories, and more-is integral to defining and developing the characters in the show. Madly Marvelous is a must-have for fans of the show and fashionistas alike, providing readers with a curated and well-informed look at an integral period in fashion history.

A colourfully illustrated guide to the traditional and contemporary textile skills of hooking, prodding, punching and tufting, to fire your imagination, and to discover ideas for eco-friendly crafting. - Contains 20 vibrant step-by-step projects exploring playful design and quirky creativity, including rugs, cushions, bags and personal accessories. - Conserves resources through imaginative re-use of all kinds of materials - from recycled clothing, food packaging and plastics, to junk jewellery and surplus yarn. - Includes examples of community projects and an inspirational gallery of work by notable artists from around the world.

-Offers design educators a comprehensive, hands-on introduction to design education and pedagogy in higher education. -Offers educators concrete methods and strategies to improve design students' learning, holistic development, and design school experience, as well as to help students face challenges posed by the changing nature of the design industry. -Includes international case studies and interviews with thought leaders in design, design education, and higher ed, drawn from across fashion design, architecture, and industrial design. -Written by a leading educator in fashion design.

When presenting projects in competitive design environments, how you say something is as important as what you're actually saying. Projects are increasingly complex and designers are working from more sources, and many designers are familiar with the struggle to harness this information and craft a meaningful and engaging story from it. Telling the Design Story: Effective and Engaging Communication teaches designers to craft cohesive and innovative presentations through storytelling. From the various stages of the creative process to the nuts and bolts of writing for impact, speaking skills, and creating visuals, Amy Huber provides a comprehensive approach for designers creating presentations for clients. Including chapter by chapter exercises, project briefs, and forms, this is an essential resource for students and practicing designers alike.

- A one-of-a-kind book that examines Persian celebrations from their earliest incarnations to their present state- Reaches out to Iranians worldwide, embracing and celebrating their cultural heritage- Glossy full-color photographs capture the spirit of these ancient traditions in the modern day'Sofreh' is Persian for 'spread' - referring to the colorful arrangements of flowers, condiments and objects of spiritual or cultural importance that are displayed at Persian ceremonies. As the title promises, this book is a visual feast. Flush with lavish historical illustrations and contemporary photography, it documents Persian marriage and New Year celebrations in rich detail. Sofreh pays homage to ancient traditions, discussing the symbiosis of symbolism and culture. Despite their ancestral roots, the featured ceremonies are infused with life and creativity. Modern fabrics are welcomed alongside refined antique textiles, creative floral designs, unconventional pieces of furniture, and unexpected objects. References to Persian poetry, literature, art and folklore stimulate the imagination, and the text is illuminated with exquisitely detailed extracts from old manuscripts, antique woven textiles and embroideries. Each volume centers around a series of original and at times highly elaborate sofreh creations. Together they comprise an extensive project, involving research into Persian ceremonies and sofreh history by an eminent scholar, and the design and creation of stunning compositions. Book One is about the Persian New Year (Nowruz), which is celebrated on the first day of Spring. Book Two explores Persian marriage and wedding customs, and the elaborate settings for marriage ceremonies (Aqd). These two lavishly illustrated volumes which make an enduring gift are devoted to showcasing sofreh compositions in all of their glory. Never before have the splendor and beauty of the sofreh been presented in such an intricate and novel fashion.

This lavish publication celebrates the gentleman's search for the perfect sartorial detail, the ideal accessory, or beautiful gift for a loved one. Presented through the eyes of a connoisseur looking for quality and bepoke goods in London's key stylistic historic periods, it tells the stories of the personalities, shop-keepers and mastercraftsmen who have animated the business of luxury goods for centuries. The book is arranged chronologically in six chapters, each followed by three or four profiles of British luxury marques. A reference section presents the London gentleman's social world, from the shopping arcades to classic hotels and the member's clubs and antiquarians in between. This is the perfect book for the man who has everything.

Interior Provocations: History, Theory, and Practice of Autonomous Interiors addresses the broad cultural, historical, and theoretical implications of interiors beyond their conventionally defined architectural boundaries. With provocative contributions from leading and emerging historians, theorists, and design practitioners, the book is rooted in new scholarship that expands traditional relationships between architecture and interiors and that reflects the latest theoretical developments in the fields of interior design history and practice. This collection contains diverse case studies from the late eighteenth century to the twenty-first century including Alexander Pope's Memorial Garden, Design Indaba, and Robin Evans. It is an essential read for researchers, practitioners, and students of interior design at all levels.

As the epitome of reckless devil-may-care cool, denim jeans have been embraced by people from practically all cultures and walks of life, and favoured for their sheer versatility and style."Delirious Denim" chronicles the garment's meteoric rise in popularity and its role in building iconic brands like Levi's and Wranglers, and celebrities from James Dean to Andy Warhol.While showcasing the creative and infinitely varied modifications of jeans to express the unique identity of the wearer, "Delirious Denim" offers insightful interviews with jeans collectors and afficionados to articulate their irresistible allure.Illustrated with full-colour photography throughout, "Delirious Denim" is a colourful tribute to jeans for designers and fashionistas everywhere.

"Printed Textile Design: Profession, Trends and Product Development" walks us through the different aspects of textile design as a process and a profession. The authors describe the steps involved in projects within the fashion, home and garden sectors of textile design, and also examine the specific characteristics of these three sectors. They pay special attention to current tendencies and offer an excellent insight into interpreting trends, which is essential for textile designers. The projects shown, developed by students approaching the professional level, provide the reader with outstanding explanatory case studies. This teaching resource is a key aid for both students and young professionals. It also includes a highly useful list of professional contacts.

Animal products were used extensively in nineteenth-century Britain. A middle-class Victorian woman might wear a dress made of alpaca wool, drape herself in a sealskin jacket, brush her hair with a tortoiseshell comb, and sport feathers in her hat. She might entertain her friends by playing a piano with ivory keys or own a parrot or monkey as a living fashion accessory. In this innovative study, Helen Cowie examines the role of these animal-based commodities in Britain in the long nineteenth century and traces their rise and fall in popularity in response to changing tastes, availability, and ethical concerns. Focusing on six popular animal products - feathers, sealskin, ivory, alpaca wool, perfumes, and exotic pets - she considers how animal commodities were sourced and processed, how they were marketed and how they were consumed. She also assesses the ecological impact of nineteenth-century fashion.

'The go-to for all things Vuitton' Tatler Founded as a luxury leather goods house in 1854, Louis Vuitton was for many decades one of the world's leading trunk and accessories makers. It was after launching its first fashion collections in 1998, however, that the house reached unprecedented global fame, and pioneered high-profile collaborations with artists such as Richard Prince, Takashi Murakami and Stephen Sprouse. Louis Vuitton Catwalk is a complete and unrivalled overview of the world's top fashion house. The book opens with a concise history of the house, followed by brief biographical profiles of Marc Jacobs, the first creative director 1998-2014, and Nicolas Ghesquiere, who helms the brand today, before exploring the collections themselves, organized chronologically. Each collection is introduced by a short text unveiling its influences and highlights, and illustrated with carefully curated catwalk images. Showcasing hundreds of spectacular clothes, details, accessories, beauty looks and set designs - and, of course, the top fashion models who wore them on the runway, from Naomi Campbell and Gisele to Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne. A rich reference section, including an extensive index, concludes the book.

This definitive publication on Alexander McQueen (1969 2010) invites you into the creative mind and world of one of Britain s most brilliant, daring, and provocative designers, and the many themes and references that shaped his visionary fashion collections. A true comprehensive study, this catalog is the first in-depth look at McQueen and explores key themes of the exhibition tailoring, gothic, primitivism, naturalism, and futurism. The book also features previously unseen material as well as groundbreaking essays and feature spreads by multiple authors and leading fashion commentators. This kaleidoscopic approach explores themes central to the designer s work and his collections, such as the psychology of fashion, natural history, the theatre and spectacle of his shows, and the key creative collaborators during McQueen s lifetime. Alexander McQueen also offers an encyclopedic survey of McQueen s catwalk collections, illustrated with striking images by leading fashion photographers, and specially commissioned photographs that capture the breathtaking skill of his designs and awesome theatricality of his shows.

This book examines the ways in which luxury fashion brands use their heritage in their digital storytelling and marketing. With chapters from authors in China and Macau (PRC), India, Romania, Turkey, the United Kingdom, and the United States, covering British, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indian, Italian, and Turkish brands, this truly global collection is the first book of its kind devoted solely to the emerging study of digital heritage storytelling. This method of reaching potential consumers and perpetuating brand identity is a hugely important factor in the marketing of luxury brands and has yet to be studied comprehensively. The book will be of interest to scholars working in fashion studies, fashion history, design history, design studies, digital humanities, and fashion marketing.

Essays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and beyond. All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices. Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University. Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.

A favorite of Spike Lee, Drake, and the British boy band One Direction, the brand has its broadest appeal among the football fans of the English Premier League. Starting in the 1990s, Stone Island parkas appeared in the stands at Stoke City, Blackburn Rovers, and in cities in the north, migrating ever south to the Midlands, and ultimately to London teams such as Chelsea, Arsenal, and Tottenham. Famously worn by the likes of soccer guru Pep Guardiola, The Guardian notes that the brand entered into fashion folklore as a tough, working-class premium brand that could set you back a couple of months wages for a single jacket. More recently, the brand has experienced a surge in popularity, garnering an explosive following in the rap, hip-hop, and grime scenes rocked by the likes of Travis Scott, Vince Staples, Skepta, Kano, and Boy Better Know. Cementing its place among the masters of contemporary cool, Stone Island has ongoing collabs with Supreme and Nike. This is the first book to publish the complete history of the brand, from inception to modern day. Straight from the Stone Island archives, this volume is filled with stunning, never-before-seen images and texts, and it also takes a deep dive into the technical processes that this brand is known for.