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Books > Arts & Architecture > Industrial / commercial art & design > Fashion design
Numerous designers have pioneered cutting-edge garments and collections throughout the evolution of fashion. But all too often a lack of obvious fit or purpose has been mistaken for a lack of design sophistication. In an informed defence of innovative fashion, Why You Can Go Out Dressed Like That champions the improbable, the provocative, the uncomfortable and the seemingly ridiculous. Inspired by diverse sources, theories and concepts, as well as futuristic textiles and techniques, the book explores the groundbreaking work of designers who strive to extend the boundaries of their creativity. There are no fixed elements to the 100 designs featured in this book, which range from the cerebral conceptions of Comme des Garcons, to the augmented anatomies of Thierry Mugler and the exaggerated physicality of Thom Browne's broad-shouldered men. The garments do not have to fulfil a function, keep you warm, or increase sexual attraction, nor do they have to beguile or disarm. They do need to have impact at the time of creation and to prove influential in the longer term. Many original designs elicit the response: `You can't go out dressed like that!'. Marnie Fogg proves decisively that modern fashion is not as outrageous and unwearable as it may seem.
Back in 2002, Simon "Woody" Wood was dreaming up schemes to get free sneakers. Two weeks later, he was the proud owner of Sneaker Freaker and his life was never the same. From its early roots as a punk-style fanzine to today's super-slick print and online operations, the fiercely independent publication has documented every collab, custom, limited edition, retro reissue, Quickstrike, Hyperstrike, and Tier Zero sneaker released over the last 15 years. Woody's original premise that Sneaker Freaker would be "funny and serious, meaningful and pointless at the same time" has certainly been vindicated in The Ultimate Sneaker Book. With more than 650 pages jam-packed with insider knowledge and his own irreverent observations, the insane historical detail and otaku-level minutiae is beyond obsessive. Traversing 100 years of history, each chapter paints a rollicking picture of the sneaker industry's evolution. Air Max, Air Force, Adi Dassler, Converse, Kanye, Dapper Dan, Dee Brown, Michael Jordan, and Yeezy-along with obscure treasures like Troop, Airwalk, and Vision Street Wear-are all exhaustively documented. This is a definitive source of knowledge. This is... The Ultimate Sneaker Book!
Moquette is the carpet-like fabric covering the seats we sit on in London's Tubes, buses, trams and Overground trains - and here is a brilliantly colourful guide to all its patterns. London Transport has always wanted the best design, be it Charles Holden's superb art deco Tube stations on the Piccadilly Line, its elegant Johnston typeface or Harry Beck's Tube map. And this pursuit of excellence has extended even to the design of the fabrics it covers our bus and Tube seats with: moquette. In the Thirties top artists like Paul Nash and Enid Marx were commissioned to design patterns; nowadays every line like Crossrail or the Overground gets its own unique, colour-co-ordinated moquette pattern. Now, in conjunction with the London Transport Museum, which has the definitive London Transport moquette archive, Andrew Martin has written a delightful, surprising and covetable guide to all these patterns, from the first horse bus to the latest Tube train.
More than 350 photographs of historic fabric swatches explore design variations in foulards, the small motifs printed on silks and related fabrics that were intended for men's ties and dressing gowns. Take an inspiring visual tour of designs, from the traditional to pop art, in foulard prints. An invaluable guide for the historian and student, a treasure of ideas and inspiration for designers.
Take a look at the wild, bold, colorful, and naughty designs that have swelled men's chests throughout necktie history. Follow the development of this manly fashion, from fabrics to tie care, and enjoy an astounding kaleidoscope of colors and motifs. Hundreds of neck and bow ties from the late twentieth century are displayed in 340 color pictures. The designs range from the incredible "Bold Look" ties of the late 1940s and early 1950s to the thinly conservative ties of the late 1950s. The early 1960s produced mundane ties, but Pop, Op, and Psychedelic Art ushered in another era in the late 1960s and early 1970s called the "Peacock Look," characterized by extremely wide ties and extravagantly wild prints. Finally, take a tour of the stylistic progression ties made through the 1980s and 1990s.
Everything you need to know to sew your own clothes and home
furnishings.
'Haute couture is like an orchestra, whose conductor is Balenciaga. We other couturiers are the musicians and we follow the direction he gives' - Christian Dior The godfather of conceptual design, a master of shape, a true fashion game changer - all are accolades bestowed upon one of the most interesting, venerated and iconic couturiers of the twentieth century: Cristobal Balenciaga. His pureness of line, the comfort of his garments and innovative work with textiles, colour and volume made a huge impact on twentieth-century fashion, with creations such as the babydoll, balloon and sack dresses still influencing fashion today. Through stunning images and captivating text, Little Book of Balenciaga depicts the work and life of Balenciaga the couturier. Fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix examines his legacy both through tracing the Maison's artistic direction after his death, and the generations of designers influenced by the master himself.
Fibres to Smart Textiles: Advances in Manufacturing, Technologies, and Applications offers comprehensive coverage of the fundamentals and advances in the textile and clothing manufacturing sectors. It describes the basics of fibres, yarns, and fabrics and their end use in the latest developments and applications in the field and addresses environmental impacts from textile processes and how to minimize them. This book serves as a single comprehensive source discussing textile fibres, yarn formation, filament formation techniques, woven fabric formation, knitting technologies, nonwoven manufacturing technologies, braiding technologies, and dyeing, printing, and finishing processes. Testing of textile materials, environmental impacts of textile processes and use of CAD and CAM in designing textile products are also included. The book also discusses applications including textile composites and biocomposites, technical textiles, smart textiles, and nanotextiles. With chapters authored by textile experts, this practical book offers guidance to professionals in textile and clothing manufacturing and shows how to avoid potential pitfalls in product development.
Design Materials and Making for Social Change spans the two interconnected worlds of the material and the social, at different scales and in different contexts, and explores the value of the knowledge, skills and methods that emerge when design researchers work directly with materials and hold making central to their practice. Through the social entanglements of addressing material impacts, the contributors to this edited volume examine homelessness, diaspora, migration, the erosion of craft skills and communities, dignity in work and family life, the impacts of colonialism, climate crisis, education, mental health and the shifting complexities in collaborating with and across diverse disciplines and stakeholders. This book celebrates the role of materials and making in design research by demonstrating the diverse and complex interplay between disciplines and the cultures it enables, when in search of alternative futures. Design Materials and Making for Social Change will be of interest to scholars in materials design, textile design, product design, fashion design, maker culture, systemic design, social design, design for sustainability and circular design.
Galliano: Spectacular Fashion is the first detailed guide to the work of one of fashion's greatest talents. Though the designer's otherwise glittering career has been punctured by years out of the limelight, his catalogue of work remains astonishing. Written by internationally renowned fashion expert Kerry Taylor, this beautifully illustrated and meticulously researched book looks in depth at John Galliano's collections from his 1984 graduate show at Saint Martins to his triumphant renaissance at Maison Margiela in 2015. With never-before-seen images of rare designs from private couture archives, close ups revealing the intricacies of garments, and iconic runway shots showing the designer's most innovative creations in motion, this visually rich book examines his revolutionary designs in unprecedented depth. In addition, original interviews with the designer as well as the people who worked closely with him throughout his career shed new light on both the clothes and the context in which they were created. A must-have for fashion lovers, collectors and researchers alike, Galliano: Spectacular Fashion is the ultimate overview of the work of a design genius.
The powerful chronicle of the women who used their sewing skills to survive the Holocaust, stitching beautiful clothes at an extraordinary fashion workshop created within one of the most notorious WWII death camps. At the height of the Holocaust twenty-five young inmates of the infamous Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp - mainly Jewish women and girls - were selected to design, cut, and sew beautiful fashions for elite Nazi women in a dedicated salon. It was work that they hoped would spare them from the gas chambers. This fashion workshop - called the Upper Tailoring Studio - was established by Hedwig Höss, the camp commandant's wife, and patronized by the wives of SS guards and officers. Here, the dressmakers produced high-quality garments for SS social functions in Auschwitz, and for ladies from Nazi Berlin's upper crust. Drawing on diverse sources - including interviews with the last surviving seamstress - The Dressmakers of Auschwitz follows the fates of these brave women. Their bonds of family and friendship not only helped them endure persecution but also played their part in camp resistance. Weaving the dressmakers' remarkable experiences within the context of Nazi policies for plunder and exploitation, historian Lucy Adlington exposes the greed, cruelty, and hypocrisy of the Third Reich and offers a fresh look at a little-known chapter of World War II and the Holocaust.
Providing detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal comfort, which allows for systematic control of the measuring methods and the services and final products that are distributed on the global market. This book is aimed at industry professionals, researchers, and advanced students working in textile and clothing engineering, comfort testing, and ergonomics.
The skilled tailors of Savile Row in Mayfair, central London, have dressed kings, movie stars, rock legends, billionaires - and even a few regular guys. A Savile Row suit remains an enduring and highly individual symbol of the finest a man can buy. From its origins close to Britain's main royal palaces, the Row has grown from clothing aristocrats to military men; more recently it has been revivified by the renewed appreciation of personalized, handmade goods, and by a new generation of modern sartorialists seeking 'heritage luxury'. Told through eight chronological themes, this beautifully illustrated celebration brings together Savile Row's highlights and low-lifes, the dramas and private tales, the suits and their accoutrements, the fabrics and the cuts, the history and future, as never before. Each chapter charts a stage of the Row's development and its contribution to men's fashion and culture. Throughout the book are dispersed 26 profiles of today's master tailors, providing insight into what makes their work, relationships and clothes so special. The book is finely detailed with reference sections on the anatomy and making of the perfect suit. This once-in-a-lifetime publication, by the archetypal modern gentleman and devoted customer of the Row, weaves a fabric rich with anecdote, personality and sartorial detail.
The fourth edition of Schiffer Fashion Press's (SFP) runway compendium tells the story of the Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week collections from "Atelier to Runway." Sketches, inspirations, mementos, swatches, and mood boards from the studios of five top designers offer insights into the creative process behind the collections. The story further unfolds with compelling backstage coverage gathered before 10 runway shows. Here you'll see the pre-runway excitement of hair stylists, makeup artists, and designers creating the final look. Finally, over 1,500 runway and presentation images from the collections of 69 designers complete this New York Fashion Week experience. Complementing this dramatic fashion narrative, this volume also presents street fashion photography and an expanded trend guide with more details and analysis, plus hair and makeup coverage. Come behind the scenes with us to experience everything that makes this week the most exciting time in American fashion.
The most gifted textile designer of her generation, Shirley Craven won a string of awards during the 1960s. This book celebrates her remarkable achievements at Hull Traders and documents her arresting hand screen-printed furnishing fabrics in full. Big bold abstracts were her speciality, striking in colour and breathtakingly original in style. A visionary small company with high ideals, Hull Traders made its mark initially with designs by artists Eduardo Paolozzi, Nigel Henderson and Ivon Hitchens. Under Craven's direction Hull Traders issued a string of ground-breaking textiles during the 1960s by forty artist-designers, recorded here in their entirety for the first time. Contributors included Althea McNish, John Drummond, Peter McCulloch, Doreen Dyall, Roger Limbrick, Cliff Holden, Richard Allen and Dorothy Carr. In 1966 Hull Traders branched out into furniture with the launch of Bernard Holdaway's revolutionary tom-tom range made of painted cardboard tubes - an icon of the Swinging Sixties, based entirely on circular forms, sold all over the world. Drawing on pioneering new research by leading post-war design historian Lesley Jackson, this book traces the fascinating, hitherto untold story of Hull Traders and its unique creative alliance with Shirley Craven and Bernard Holdaway. Featuring stunning new photography and rare archive photographs, it captures the explosion of creativity during the 1960s and provides a visual feast of inspirational post-war pattern and form. This work accompanies a major touring exhibition curated by Lesley Jackson, opening at the Ferens Art Gallery in Hull, 3 October 2009 - 3 January 2010.
Optimization and decision making are integral parts of any manufacturing process and management system. The objective of this book is to demonstrate the confluence of theory and applications of various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization techniques with reference to textile manufacturing and management. Divided into twelve chapters, it discusses various multi-criteria decision-making methods such as AHP, TOPSIS, ELECTRE, and optimization techniques like linear programming, fuzzy linear programming, quadratic programming, in textile domain. Multi-objective optimization problems have been dealt with two approaches, namely desirability function and evolutionary algorithm. Key Features Exclusive title covering textiles and soft computing fields including optimization and decision making Discusses concepts of traditional and non-traditional optimization methods with textile examples Explores pertinent single-objective and multi-objective optimizations Provides MATLAB coding in the Appendix to solve various types of multi-criteria decision making and optimization problems Includes examples and case studies related to textile engineering and management
An elegant collection of Christian Dior's maxims on style, women and inspiration, presented in a fashionable gift format. Credited with creating some of the most luxurious and spectacular haute couture pieces of all time, Christian Dior became a fashion icon overnight in 1947 with the launch of his 'New Look' - sumptuous hourglass silhouettes that provided a welcome tonic to the austerity of wartime. Its wild success, and the global fame that ensued, was built on the designer's subtle understanding of fashion, couture, style, elegance and women - a perspective and insight best revealed in Dior's own words, which are gathered here for the first time. Rightly described as the 'Designer of Dreams' in the recent blockbuster exhibition on the house of Dior that attracted millions of visitors the world over, Christian Dior was an unrivalled arbiter in the world of high fashion. Dior was generous with his advice on all things, from style and how to dress ('No elegant woman follows fashion blindly', he once declared), to his insights into the creative process, invaluable for any budding designer. Presented in a beautiful package and accessible format, The World According to Christian Dior is the perfect gift for fashion fans, publishing on the occasion of the house's 75th anniversary.
Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) Technology and Application in Fashion and Textile Supply Chain highlights the technology of Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) and its applications in fashion and textile manufacturing and supply chain management. It discusses the brief history, technology, and working of RFID including the types of RFID systems. It compares differences, advantages, and disadvantages of RFID and barcode technologies. It also covers application of RFID technology in textile and fashion manufacturing, supply chain, and retail, and RFID-based process control in textile and fashion manufacturing. It covers various applications of RFID starting from fibre manufacturing through yarn and fabric manufacturing; fabric chemical processing; garment manufacturing and quality control; and retail management. It offers case studies of RFID adoption by famous fashion brands detailing the competitive advantages and discusses various challenges faced and future directions of RFID technology.
A striking, sumptuous portfolio of catwalk and behind-the-scene images of John Galliano's highly creative collections for his eponymous label John Galliano's (b. 1960) ascent in the world of fashion design was swift and filled with acclaim for his bold, quick-witted sensibility and his theatrical flair. He became head designer for Givenchy in 1995, and then for Christian Dior in 1996, and directed his own fashion label between 1996 and 2011. He was named Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards four times. Currently creative director of the Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela, Galliano has fascinated the fashion world with his often outrageous and whimsical creations, including some of the most memorable collections of the 20th century: from the iconic Suzie Sphinx collection to luxurious and edgy reinventions of Chinese, Peruvian, Yemeni, or Mongolian costumes. Unfolding chronologically with short texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox introducing each collection, John Galliano: Unseen captures the designer's mesmerizing creations for his eponymous label (including rich and idiosyncratic details) and the intense backstage work of Galliano's trusted collaborators. Robert Fairer's long stint as backstage photographer for Vogue gives him a unique perspective, and his exquisite photographs of Galliano's collections, many of which are published here for the first time, offer insights into the extravagance and playfulness of one of the world's most flamboyant, innovative, and controversial fashion designers at the zenith of his career.
Volume II of The Watch Book follows on the successful and comprehensive earlier volume with a magnificently illustrated book about the additional functions and refinements of wristwatches. For centuries, so-called "complications" - any feature of a mechanical timepiece beyond the display of hours, minutes and seconds - have embodied the crowning glory of fine mechanical watchmaking. Among the earliest of these are alarm clocks and calendar movements. Moon phase displays have also been known for several centuries. Striking movements can be considered among the most complex and technically elaborate additional functions, while finishing techniques such as skeletonising, which is mainly done by hand, also characterise the high art of watchmaking. This superbly illustrated volume by watch expert and historian Gisbert L. Brunner is dedicated to advanced functions of mechanical timepieces, their historical development and special technical features. Topics covered in this book include: Hands and numerals; Spring; Astronomical display (moon phases etc.); Tides; Double balance; Alarm clock; Altitude/depth measurement; Skeletonisation. Text in English and German.
Visually stunning and deeply insightful, 80s Sound and Vision is THE defining book of an unforgettable decade, capturing the raw energy, creativity and flamboyance of the era through its fashion and music. With images by renowned photographer Sheila Rock, this personal journey offers a sumptuous visual account including many rare images from the photographer's archive, alongside those originally featured in seminal publications such as The Face, Rolling Stone and Vogue. Rock's compelling first hand narrative shot across a decade primarily in London but also LA, San Francisco and Tokyo, takes us to a time when the real catwalk happened on the street; when style was the first and last word and when youth made their own identity, culture, music and entertainment. Here are the burgeoning roots of gender fluidity and an index of impressive talents that bubbled out of the suburbs and art schools to energise and invigorate a grey place with positivity and possibility. This lavish compendium is a who's who of the artists, designers, stylists, hairdressers, models and performers, who made the 1980s their own. Alongside many notable stars (David Bowie, Brian Ferry, Naomi Campbell, Judy Blame, Leigh Bowery) are documented the equally relevant style gangs and subcultures who lived by their own rules (New Romantics, Goths, Mods and Metal Heads) and the 'it' hang outs and clubs (Billy's, Blitz, Le Beat Route) where a new sensibility was created and paraded. 80s Sound and Vision is a unique chronicle of an extraordinary time and bears witness to the powerful explosion of imagination and innovation that shaped a decade. |
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