Platinum Jubilee edition 'Full of gems ... Angela Kelly is a jewel in the crown' Daily Telegraph 'Entertaining and beautifully illustrated' The Sunday Times 'For real intel, [The Crown] can't come close to The Other Side of the Coin by Angela Kelly' The New York Times 'When Angela Kelly and The Queen are together, laughter echoes through the corridors of Buckingham Palace.' Angela worked with The Queen and walked the corridors of the Royal Household for twenty-eight years, initially as Her Majesty's Senior Dresser and then latterly as Her Majesty's Personal Advisor, Curator, Wardrobe and In-house Designer. As the first person in history to hold this title, she shared a uniquely close working relationship with The Queen. Her Majesty personally gave Angela her blessing to share their extraordinary bond with the world. Whether it was preparing for a formal occasion or brightening Her Majesty's day with a playful joke, Angela's priority was to serve and support. Sharing never-before-seen photographs - many from Angela's own private collection - and charming anecdotes of their time spent together, this revealing book provides memorable insights into what it was like to work closely with The Queen, to curate her wardrobe and to discover a true and lasting connection along the way. Revised and updated to mark The Queen's Platinum Jubilee, this special edition of The Other Side of the Coin contains chapters covering the Royal Household's isolation during the pandemic, Angela's own devotion to service to keep the monarch safe, and the light and laughter that was shared behind closed doors, even in the darkest moments.

The marriage between flowers and fashion has never been more pronounced than when seen in the work of Yves Saint Laurent. This retrospective examines Yves Saint Laurent’s use of flowers from their symbolism to their fruition on the runway.

Flowers in every form inspired fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, serving as a leitmotif in his work. His passion for plants manifested itself in countless patterns and techniques, and he adorned women in floral appliqués, prints, and embroideries. From a thousand and one rose buds to sprigs of lily of the valley, from an avalanche of bougainvillea to delicate poppy touches, and from sheaves of wheat to majestic lilies, nature was an essential part of his visual palette.

Through the discerning eyes of Olivier Saillard, this veritable garden of Yves Saint Laurent’s designs―culled from a broad range of styles―metamorphoses into a bouquet of flowering silhouettes. Under the direction of Elsa Janssen and Alexis Sornin, essays from Emanuele Coccia, Marc Jeanson, and Serena Bucalo Mussely explore, respectively, the symbolism of flowers, characteristics of his recurring prints, and the designer’s signature use of flora in accessories.

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.

Give new life to your pre-loved jeans, with these simple techniques and inventive designs.

This practical book brings together ingenious repairing techniques and repurposing ideas. Your favourite jeans can be patched, visibly mended, reworked into a new fashionable style or even cut up to form a completely new garment or accessory. Whether you want a tote bag, a bucket hat, or a fresh new cut in your trousers, Janelle Hanna's designs will show you how to rescue good denim from landfill and give it a better future. And you'll discover that there's nothing more satisfying than turning something old into something new!

This book represents a major milestone in the endeavour to understand how communication is impacting on the fashion industry and on societal fashion-related practices and values in the digital age. It presents the proceedings of FACTUM 19, the first in a series of fashion communication conferences that highlights important theoretical and empirical work in the field. Beyond documenting the latest scientific insights, the book is intended to foster the sharing of methodological approaches, expand the dialogue between communications' studies and fashion-related disciplines, help establish an international and interdisciplinary network of scholars, and offer encouragement and fresh ideas to junior researchers. It is of high value to academics and students in the fields of fashion communication, fashion marketing, visual studies in fashion, digital transformation of the fashion industry, and the cultural heritage dimension of fashion. In addition, it is a key resource for professionals seeking sound research on fashion communication and marketing.

Hailed as 'the most influential female designer of the twentieth century', Coco Chanel pioneered classic easy-to-wear fashion for the modern woman. She arrived on the fashion scene when feathers, lace and ostentatious beads were favourites, and proceeded to re-invent couture using new materials, like jersey, for outfits that were suitable for everyday wear yet still elegant. With original illustrations and images from celebrated photographers, such as Cecil Beaton, Bronwyn Cosgrave traces the story of Coco Chanel's iconic designs and glamorous, racy life. In 1921 Coco opened her Chanel boutique in Paris - still a destination store today - and launched her first perfume, Chanel No.5. Perhaps her most important contribution to the fashion world was the simple, much-imitated 'little black dress' which made its debut in 1926. Other landmark creations include the Chanel suit and the quilted handbag. A testament to her lasting influence, these legendary designs remain as popular today as when they first appeared. Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.

What did British combatants wear on the western front in the First World War? From the idealized recruitment images to the coarse trousers and ill-fitting tunics, Jane Tynan retraces wartime culture through images and experiences of khaki. Photographs, newspapers, memoirs, war office documents and tailoring ephemera reveal the impact of the war on the tailoring trade. But the story of uniform also involves the wartime knitting projects, the issue of 'Kitchener Blue', Sikhs wearing khaki on the western front, and the punishments given to COs. Military uniforms were designed to make soldiers of civilian men and to rank them according to race and class, but Tynan argues that neat images of men in khaki concealed the reality that clothing an ever-expanding army involved compromise, resistance and improvisation. Uniforms transformed men and war changed British society. This book tells the story of British army clothing during wartime and offers insights into why khaki has endured as the symbol of modern militarism.

A glamorous tribute to Karl Lagerfeld's highly influential creations for Chanel captured behind the scenes by US Vogue photographer Robert Fairer in beautiful, never-before-seen images. Casting a new light on one of the best-loved chapters in fashion history, Karl Lagerfeld Unseen: The Chanel Years illuminates key Chanel collections and creations from behind the scenes. From discreet client fittings in rue Cambon's immaculate black-and-beige salons to previously unseen backstage moments that show models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and Karl Lagerfeld himself at work, Robert Fairer's stunning and high-energy photographs capture the elegance, glamour and spirit that defined Karl Lagerfeld's shows for Chanel. Texts by Karl Lagerfeld's collaborators and friends provide a fresh perspective on his creative process and reveal the stories behind the now iconic designs. A treasure trove of inspiration, this publication will be a must-have reference for fashion and photography lovers alike, and for dedicated Chanel fans the world over.

This series celebrates the Bodleian Library's acquisition of Tom Phillips's archive of over 50,000 photographic postcards dating from the first half of the twentieth century, a period in which, thanks to the ever cheaper medium of photography, 'ordinary' people could afford to own their portraits. Each title in this series is thematically assembled and designed by the artist, the covers featuring a linked painting specially created for each title from Tom Phillips's signature work, A Humument. With an illuminating foreword by Eric Musgrave, 'Menswear' presents postcards of men in all manner of outfits, whether formal, practical or casual, dating from around 1900 up to c. 1949. Most of the subjects are posing for portraits, displaying both their individual style and an interpretation of the fashions of the time. The rich variety of accessories on display includes ties, gloves, pocket squares, walking sticks, canes, boutonnieres and spats.

Coco Rules takes 30 quotes from the inimitable Coco Chanel and translates them into modern, practical style rules to live by. With her trademark acerbic wit and no-nonsense attitude, Coco Chanel has always been a wonderfully entertaining source on matters of life and style. Coco Rules gathers her words of wisdom on both fashion and empowerment and uses them to provide solutions to many of the style-based conundrums you might encounter, as well as inspiration on how to be the very best version of yourself - strong, fearless and confident - no matter what you wear. Written by acclaimed fashion journalist Katherine Ormerod, each rule is accompanied by a bold and stylish illustration from Carolina Melis.

Before the outbreak of WWII, French fashion represented the very pinnacle of style, and French women the epitome of chic. At home and abroad, couturiers' wealthy clients eagerly awaited the latest collections, and design houses throughout the world looked to Paris for inspiration. Unparalleled for glamour and elegance, all things French were noted and emulated - and especially French fashion.One morning in September 1939, into this idyllic world of haute couture and Cafe society came the shattering experience of war, followed by the German Occupation. French women, determined not to give way to the inevitable austerities, sought innovation: hats made from blotting paper or newspapers - the latter signalling political allegiances - and blouses made out of parachute silk, often obtained through dubious means. Not only did life go on, but creativity flourished - culottes, which enabled stylish bicycle journeys, became the vogue, and couturiers capitalized on deprivation with wit - dubbing designs 'Coal' and 'Black Coffee', or naming an entire collection after Metro stops.Fashion under the Occupation provides the only in-depth history of these blackest years in French history, long overlooked by fashion history because of the impoverished industry and deprivations that affected design. Widely acknowledged as the authoritative work on fashion during this period, it is available in English for the first time and will be essential reading for anyone interested in fashion, French cultural history, and particularly the German Occupation of France.

- What is an earthquake gown?
- Who wore eelskin masher trousers?
- What did the word "dudes" mean in the 16th century? "A Dictionary of English Costume" by C. Willett Cunnington, Phillis Cunnington and Charles Beard was originally published in 1960. A monumental achievement and encyclopaedic in scope, it was a comprehensive catalogue of fashion terms from the mid-medieval period up to 1900. It was reissued and updated several times, for the last time in 1976. For decades it has served as a bible for costume historians. "The Dictionary of Fashion History" completely updates and supplements the Cunningtons' landmark work to bring it up to the present day. Featuring additional terms and revised definitions, this new edition represents an essential reference for costume historians, students of fashion history, or anyone involved in creating period costume for the theatre, film or television. It is also fascinating reading for those simply interested in the subject. Clear, concise, and meticulous in detail, this essential reference answers countless questions relating to the history of dress and adornment and promises to be a definitive guide for generations to come.

YOUR ULTIMATE LIFESTYLE GUIDE TO THE MOST ENDURING OF ALL SUBCULTURES - FROM A VOGUE BEAUTY EDITOR

'There's a bit of goth in us all' KATE MOSS

'A celebration of darkness' ANJELICA HUSTON

Amidst the waking nightmares of our times, the melancholy of goth soothes our morbid anxieties. Influencing pop culture at every juncture - fashion, art, music, film, the Kardashians - what was once mysterious is now mainstream.

This is a grimoire for the modern goth, whether seasoned or aspiring, as you navigate the pentagram of life in style. Cradled within these pages lie the secret lives of undead icons throughout the ages, including godmother of goth Siouxsie Sioux.

To illuminate the darkness further, you'll hear from notable goths and goth-coded figures such as Christina Ricci on what films to watch, clothes to don, music to wallow in, and books to take with you to the grave.

Lauren Wager's follow up to her bestselling Color Collective's Palette Perfect features a fresh approach to color combinations with entirely new palettes, organized by season. What color is summer? Is it a cool and translucent swimming pool aquamarine, brilliant watermelon red, or the pale pink interior of a seashell? If these colors define summer, what color is autumn? How about winter? And spring? In Palette Perfect, Volume 2, designer and best-selling author Lauren Wager explores the multiple possibilities of seasonal color applications, leading the reader through an inspirational presentation of image pairings and color combinations. The color palettes are portrayed in a fresh and dynamic way that allows the reader to see how certain colors play off each other in foreground and background, close together and further apart. This format is a different take on color palettes than Volume 1, and still provides the RGB and CMYK values for artists that would like to translate the colors for web and print. This volume--both a practical guide and inspirational book for designers, illustrators, architects, and crafters, as well home decoration and fashion lovers, professional or otherwise--provides examples of color application within the worlds of contemporary art, fashion, interiors, photography and graphic design. It is a carefully gathered collection of color palettes and stunning images with a touch of the unexpected, utterly successful in its aim.

From the 1920s to the 1960s, Rene Hubert (1895-1976) belonged to the creme de la creme of costume designers. He designed costumes for stars such as Tallulah Bankhead, Ingrid Bergman, Marlon Brando, Yul Brynner, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, and Marilyn Monroe in one of her first roles. Shirley Temple danced the hula in the film Curly Top wearing a grass skirt ensemble designed by Hubert; he was especially closely associated with Gloria Swanson, who encouraged him to relocate to Los Angeles when she met him in Paris in 1924. Hubert consented, and soon found himself working with directors Rene Clair, Alfred Hitchcock and Otto Preminger, elevating their stars with his flair for opulent color and elegant lines. Hubert's international reputation helped him to win commissions in his native Switzerland, most notably for the Swiss National Exhibition in 1939, for Swissair uniforms and aircraft interiors, and for various theaters and textile companies. This richly illustrated publication compiles sketches, costume photography, stage photos and film stills of Hubert's work. Experts from both sides of the Atlantic reflect on his multifaceted oeuvre at his numerous workplaces in Switzerland, Europe and the US. Excerpts from his unpublished memoirs provide a personal view of his life and the glamor of the era.

Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. "Fashion and Jazz" is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, " Fashion and Jazz" provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history.

Feminists have argued that the Barbie doll perpetuates unrealistic standards of feminine beauty and undermines the credibility of women - that her long, slender plastic limbs and tiny waist fetishize the female body in unnatural ways and that her mature, overtly fashionable image promotes consumerism and superficiality over and above womens liberty and intellect. Depending on the viewer, Barbie is either a malign symbol of the strategies of the capitalist system or she is a symbol of glamour, high fashion and style, a fascinating indice of cultural change and nostalgic memory. Yet both Barbies fans and detractors assume that she stands alone.In reality she is the most high profile of a series of iconic dolls that over the past century and a half have been intimately connected to notions of fashionability. The prominence of haute couture in popular culture suggests that the link between fashion marketing and dolls should be an obvious one. Yet to date this connection has not been systematically explored. Doll collecting has been viewed as an enthusiasts or curatorial preserve, while the volumes these artefacts speak about culture and identity has not been adequately interrogated. Peers original and shrewd analysis fills a major gap in cultural studies by examining in depth the dolls associations with concepts of femininity and fashionability.

Four stunning pocket-sized fashion books in one box set.

Includes Little Book of Chanel, Little Book of Dior, Little Book of Gucci and Little Book of Prada – telling the stories of four iconic fashion houses. With images of the four houses' most timeless and celebrated designs, plus captivating text on the personalities and lives of the creative geniuses behind the brands, The Little Guides to Style is the quintessential collection that will delight any fashion lover.

The highly competitive world of retail branding and brand packaging is evident in the increasing demand for creating unique, eye-catching and recognisable clothing packaging designs. Designers continue to focus their talent by leveraging striking visual devices into an internal and external messaging system via the product's packaging design, which acts as a portable and extendable marketing tool. This superbly designed book showcases innovative, custom-packaging designs across a range of products, including footwear, clothing and apparel, fashion products, and more. Fashion Packaging Now presents in highly illustrated, full-colour detail how the brand connects with the item and with the packaging itself, and offers unique insight on individual project design production strategies. The case studies are modern, contemporary examples, which also feature many well-known brands, such as Adidas, Nike, and Puma. This book will be a source of inspiration for design aficionados, advertising and merchandise managers, students, brand and retail managers, and educators in the product design and graphic design fields.

For some time now the body has been a central topic across a range of social science disciplines. Similarly, there has been a growing interest in the cultural meaning of clothing. But curiously, even though people are nearly always clothed, the relationship between dress and the body has been relatively unexplored until now.
Dress is a crucial aspect of embodiment, shaping the self physically and psychologically. From dressing up to dressing down, this book exposes the complex ways that fashions and costumes render the body presentable in a vast range of social situations. It investigates the varied ways in which western and non-western clothes operate to give the body meaning and situate it within culture. The authors consider different approaches to the relationship between fashion, dress and the body, and present new theoretical models for their future study. They demonstrate the importance of the concept of ‘embodiment’ to dress and fashion studies.
Exploring gender, photography, cultural history and modernity, this book deals with a vast range of questions inherent in dressing up the body. From fashion photography in the 1960s to contemporary queer fashion and the history of the masquerade, this is a fascinating and far-reaching collection. Its breadth and depth make it essential reading for anyone interested in style, costume, the body, gender or history.

Why is fashion "in fashion" in museums today? This timely volume brings together expert scholars and curators to examine the reasons behind fashion's popularity in the twenty-first century museum and the impact this has had on wider museum practice. Chapters explore the role of fashion in the museum across a range of international case studies including the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, The Fashion Museum at Bath, ModeMuseum in Antwerp and many more. Contributions look at topics such as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences and how curators present broader themes and issues such as gender, class and technology innovatively through exhibiting fashion. Drawing on approaches from dress history, fashion studies, museum studies and curatorship, this engaging book will be key reading for students and scholars across a range of disciplines.