Choice Outstanding Academic Title 2014 In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the 'peacock male' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men's clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. The study explores design issues and period style in advertising, the role of market research and consumer psychology in determining target audiences, the idea of the 'new man' in representing fashionable masculinities, and the various ways that menswear retailers and brands dealt with sex and gender, race, class and age. From y-fronts to Austin Reed suits to Levi's jeans, menswear advertising epitomised the themes, stereotypes, contradictions and ambiguities of masculinity in an age of great social change. This meticulously researched and detailed work of scholarship will be essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, advertising, media, cultural and gender studies.

Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style is a beautifully illustrated, handbag-sized visual history of one of the world's most iconic brands. Open the world's most famous little blue box to discover the story of Tiffany & Co. since its founding in 1837. Packed with photographs and information from the company's 185 years, get a glimpse of the legendary designs that have made Tiffany & Co. a household name. Starting in New York City in 1837, you will discover just how far plucky upstart Charles Lewis Tiffany went to be crowned the King of Diamonds. It is a tale of fortunes won and lost, the discovery of new gems and design talent, and the making of some of the most iconic jewels of our times - including the classic Tiffany engagement ring. Tiffany & Co.: The Story Behind the Style is the perfect gift for any fashion or jewellery lover. Also available: Cartier: The Story Behind the Style

Through intertwined narratives and evocative illustrations, this graphic biography reveals the life and influence of Karl Lagerfeld, the legendary designer who revolutionized fashion.

The book’s innovative structure alternates between Lagerfeld’s public achievements and personal moments, offering an in-depth and multifaceted look at his story. One narrative chronicles his rapid ascent in the fashion world, charting his journey from his beginnings in 1940s Germany to his rise as a global creative force. Set against the vibrant worlds of 1950s Paris and 1970s Italy, it highlights his transformative work at Chanel, Fendi, and his eponymous label, celebrating his groundbreaking designs and larger-than-life persona that captivated audiences worldwide.

The parallel narrative provides a rare glimpse into Lagerfeld’s private life, showcasing a reflective and deeply creative individual. In the quietude of his home in the countryside south of Paris, he immersed himself in literature, art, and his love for his famous cat, Choupette.

These intimate scenes illuminate a man whose relentless drive was paired with a profound appreciation for beauty and simplicity.

With meticulous storytelling and engaging visuals, this biography captures the many facets of Karl Lagerfeld—a figure defined by ambition, artistry, and an ability to seamlessly navigate grandeur and introspection. Essential for fashion aficionados and readers fascinated by influential lives, this book is a unique celebration of a legacy that continues to shape the cultural and creative landscapes of today.

Textilepedia is an extensive textile dictionary that covers all essential fabric knowledge - from deciphering different types of materials to understanding your finishing options. A balance between text and imagery; it acts as a quick easy-to-navigate guide - simplifying complicated fabric and fibre information using comparisons and relatable stories. The book brings a comprehensive knowledge of textile applications to you. From how to choose fibres, the formation of yarns, the characteristics of common fabrics, and the effects of textile finishing, the book serves as an all-in-one textile information hub.

This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. Why are civil authorities in so-called liberal democracies affronted by public nudity and the Islamic full-face 'veil'? Why is law and civil order so closely associated with robes, gowns, suits, wigs and uniforms? Why is law so concerned with the 'evident' and the need for justice to be 'seen' to be done? Why do we dress and obey dress codes at all? In this, the first ever study devoted to the many deep cultural connections between dress and law, the author addresses these questions and more. His responses flow from the radical thesis that 'law is dress and dress is law'. Engaging with sources from The Epic of Gilgamesh to Shakespeare, Carlyle, Dickens and Damien Hirst, Professor Watt draws a revealing history of dress and civil order and offers challenging conclusions about the nature of truth and the potential for individuals to fit within the forms of civil life.

Management technique and operation strategies vary depending on the particular industry. This allows businesses in that industry to thrive and increase competitive advantage. Fashion and Textiles: Breakthroughs in Research and Practice is a critical source of academic knowledge on the latest business and management perspectives within the fashion and textiles industry. Highlighting a range of pertinent topics such as marketing, consumer behavior, and value creation, this book is an ideal reference source for academics, professionals, researchers, students, and practitioners interested in emerging trends in global fashion and textile management.

Entering fashion history in 1993 with his notorious 'grunge' collection for Perry Ellis, Marc Jacobs would soon be hailed by American Vogue as 'the dauphin of grungy, understated cool'. He quickly rose to become one of the most influential designers of his generation, both at the helm of his own label and as creative director of Louis Vuitton from 1998 to 2014. Known for his collaborations with prominent artists, musicians and muses - from Stephen Sprouse to Sonic Youth, Debbie Harry, Sofia Coppola and Chloe Sevigny, Marc Jacobs 'changed what it means to be a fashion designer, just as once upon a time Andy Warhol changed what it meant to be an artist', according to fashion historian Valerie Steele. Opening with an essay on the designer's work, Marc Jacobs: Unseen unfolds chronologically, revisiting the designer's most iconic creations and revealing previously unseen behind-the-scenes moments of models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and Marc Jacobs himself at their most creative. Robert Fairer's stunning and highenergy photographs capture the youth, glamour and spirit that defined Jacobs's shows.

Tongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile by anthropologists and art historians alike, little is known about its history. Providing a unique insight into Polynesian material culture, this book explores barkcloth's rich cultural history, and argues that its manufacture, decoration and use are vehicles of creativity and female agency. Based on twelve years of extensive ethnographic and archival research, the book uncovers stories of ceremony, gender, the senses, religion and nationhood, from the 17th century up to the present-day. Placing the materiality of textiles at the heart of Tongan culture, Veys reveals not only how barkcloth was and continues to be made, but also how it defines what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study to explore the place of barkcloth in the European imagination, she examines international museum collections of Tongan barkcloth, from the UK and Italy to Switzerland and the USA, addressing the bias of the European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings of the cloth. A nuanced narrative of past and present barkcloth manufacture, designs and use, Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth demonstrates the importance of the textile to both historical and contemporary Polynesian culture.

This fun volume from fashion experts Fashionary tracks the rise to fame of the most influential designers in fashion. This visual book walks you through the stories of the world's greatest designers, across the decades. Explore each of the legend's life choices, learn how they adapted to trends and adversities, and discover how the fashion industry has changed over the years. Filled with timelines and fascinating graphics that place each fashion designer on the world stage. This volume shares appraisals of 50 of the most important fashion designers and their iconic status. Alongside star designers such as Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Cristobal Balenciaga, and the most influential fashion designers in the fashion industry, it is filled with historical information about the brands and biographies. A special treat for anyone who loves fashion. Fashion Legends included: Coco Chanel, Cristo bal Balenciaga, Christian Dior , Pierre Balmain, Emilio Pucci , Pierre Cardin , Hubert de Givenchy , Mary Quant , Sonia Rykiel , Valentino Garavani, Oscar de la Renta , Karl Lagerfeld , Giorgio Armani , Azzedine Alai a, Yves Saint Laurent , Issey Miyake , Kenzo Takada, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli , Vivienne Westwood , Rei Kawakubo , Calvin Klein , Yohji Yamamoto , Jil Sander , Paul Smith , Gianni Versace , Diane Von Fu rstenberg, Donna Karan , Miuccia Prada , Franco Moshino , Tommy Hilger , Jean Paul Gaultier , Helmut Lang , Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, Micheal Kors , Ann Demeulemeester , John Galliano , Alber Elbaz , Tom Ford , Marc Jacobs , Thom Browne , Raf Simons , Hedi Slimane , Alexander Mcqueen , Hussein Chalayan , Nicolas Ghesquie re, Stella McCartney, Riccardo Tisci

'When times are hard, fantasy and escapism are crucial' Alexander McQueen Having grown up in London's East End, Alexander McQueen left school at 15 to become a tailor's apprentice on Mayfair's Savile Row. At 22, he joined the prestigious MA course at Central Saint Martins and, after presenting his 1992 graduate collection (bought on the spot by influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow), went on to change the course of fashion. McQueen was defiant in his opinions on creativity ('Give me time and I'll give you a revolution'), women ('I design clothes because I don't want women to look all innocent and naive ... I want people to be afraid of the women I dress') and craft ('You've got to know the rules to break them. That's what I'm here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition'). He drew much of his inspiration from the natural world ('I have always loved the mechanics of nature and to a greater or lesser extent my work is always informed by that') and consistently challenged perceptions of beauty ('People find my things sometimes aggressive. But I don't see it as aggressive. I see it as romantic, dealing with a dark side of personality'). This attractive book in an accessible format is the perfect gift for fans of fashion and Alexander McQueen, capturing the wit and spirit of a true visionary.

Mere clothing is transformed into desirable fashion by the way it is represented in imagery. Fashion's Double examines how meanings are projected onto garments through their representation, whether in painting, photography, cinema or online fashion film, conveying identity and status, eliciting fascination and desire. With in-depth case studies including the work of Nick Knight and Helmut Newton, film examples such as The Hunger Games, music video Girl Panic by Duran Duran, and much more, this book analyses the interrelationship between clothing, identity, embodiment, representation and self-representation. Written for students and scholars alike, Fashion's Double will appeal to anyone studying fashion, cultural studies, art theory and history, photography, sociology, and film.

The ultimate guide to achieving beautiful and inspirational quilt blocks. Modern Japanese quilting uses Eastern and Western techniques to create quilts of extraordinary beauty. This book is a treasury of more than 125 block designs, characterised by their use of beautiful oriental textiles, unusual motifs and striking colour combinations. Choose from patchwork, applique and sashiko blocks, organised into themed sections based on geometric, pictorial and family crest designs. All the techniques you will need are clearly demonstrated. Each design features a photograph, clear instructional diagram or template, fabric palette and cutting guide, and instructions for making the block. At-a-glance icons indicate skill level and techniques used. All of the blocks can be mixed and matched, and you will find examples of fail-safe block combinations for stylish quilts, from tessellated all-over patterns to spectacular sampler quilts.

Our dress is our identity. In dress, we live, move and have our social being. This book shows how the dressed body is central to the construction of a recognizable identity and provides accessible accounts of the particular dress ‘ ways’ associated with a considerable variety of lifestyles. Churchgoers, ballerinas, Muslim schoolgirls, glamour models, ‘ vampires’ , monks and country gents all fashion a social self through dress. These cultures all have characteristic forms of displaying the dressed body for social visibility - whether in religion, sex, performance, or on the street. In contrast to much of the literature on dress, which often assumes a lack of agency on the part of the wearer, contributors to this book focus on the conscious manipulation of dress to reflect an identity that is designed to look ‘ different’ .
Why do people choose to mark themselves off socially from others? What are the costs and benefits? For every dress ‘ identity’ , there is a corresponding set of entitlements and expectations as to behaviour and belief. ‘ Priestly’ bodies inhabit a different universe of response from strippers, just as ‘ Gothic’ bodies experience the public gaze differently from ‘ Methodist’ ones. Where one look commands respect in one setting, in another it can incite antipathy and rejection. Contributors tackle head-on this ‘ paradox of dress’ - its potent power to unite and divide. Evidence of the dressed body’ s social ambiguity as a medium of consensus, on the one hand, and conflict, on the other, provides a glimpse through dress into an elementary condition of social and cultural lifethat has all too rarely been part of historical and sociological discourse.

With the massive amount of brands present in the market and the abundance of products offered, identifying a brand has become increasingly difficult. Developing a trademark is now an absolute necessity: a brand must multiply the signals which set its message apart from everyone else.This book will analyse and help conceive the identification codes a brand will use on all its communication grounds - logos, signage and packaging - without forgetting marketing and merchandising strategies.

A glamorous tribute to Karl Lagerfeld's highly influential creations for Chanel captured behind the scenes by US Vogue photographer Robert Fairer in beautiful, never-before-seen images. Casting a new light on one of the best-loved chapters in fashion history, Karl Lagerfeld Unseen: The Chanel Years illuminates key Chanel collections and creations from behind the scenes. From discreet client fittings in rue Cambon's immaculate black-and-beige salons to previously unseen backstage moments that show models, hairdressers, stylists, make-up artists and Karl Lagerfeld himself at work, Robert Fairer's stunning and high-energy photographs capture the elegance, glamour and spirit that defined Karl Lagerfeld's shows for Chanel. Texts by Karl Lagerfeld's collaborators and friends provide a fresh perspective on his creative process and reveal the stories behind the now iconic designs. A treasure trove of inspiration, this publication will be a must-have reference for fashion and photography lovers alike, and for dedicated Chanel fans the world over.

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.

'A photographic encyclopaedia of one of the 20th century's greatest creators' The Business of Fashion Founded by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge in 1961, shortly after the young couturier left his post at the helm of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent would soon become one of the most successful and influential haute couture houses in Paris. Introducing Le Smoking, the first tuxedo suit for women, in 1966, Saint Laurent also presented iconic art-inspired creations, from Mondrian dresses to precious Van Gogh embroidery and the famous Ballets Russes collection. This definitive publication opens with a concise history of the house, followed by a brief biographical profile of Yves Saint Laurent, before exploring the collections themselves, organized chronologically. Each collection is introduced by a short text unveiling its influences and highlights, and illustrated with a gallery of carefully curated catwalk images. These showcase hundreds of spectacular clothes, details, accessories, beauty looks and set designs - and, of course, the top fashion models who wore them on the runway. A rich reference section concludes the book.

Coco Rules takes 30 quotes from the inimitable Coco Chanel and translates them into modern, practical style rules to live by. With her trademark acerbic wit and no-nonsense attitude, Coco Chanel has always been a wonderfully entertaining source on matters of life and style. Coco Rules gathers her words of wisdom on both fashion and empowerment and uses them to provide solutions to many of the style-based conundrums you might encounter, as well as inspiration on how to be the very best version of yourself - strong, fearless and confident - no matter what you wear. Written by acclaimed fashion journalist Katherine Ormerod, each rule is accompanied by a bold and stylish illustration from Carolina Melis.

Fashion is a business of smoke and mirrors, notorious for crushing the souls of most who dare to be part of the industry. Go on a global expedition with New York City-based fashion buyer, strategist, and consultant, Mercedes Gonzalez, as she learns that there is no glamour in fashion and that only cutthroat corporate espionage prevails. From politicking with blood diamond dealers and Russian kingpins to living in indigenous villages, she has relied on her street smarts and fear of her uncle in order to outwit the industry tyrants at their own game. The underdog becomes the overlord (at-large). You'll want to grab a notebook for all the business (and life) tips this read has to offer. Advance warning, this book will convince you to become a proponent of child labor, an advocate of GMO, and a cynic of organic cotton.