The field of dress history has experienced exponential growth over the past two decades. This in-depth investigation examines the expanding borders and porous boundaries of the discipline today, outlining key debates and showcasing the most exciting research. With international case studies from a wide range of scholars, the volume encompasses work from a variety of historical periods from the late 18th century to the present day. Contributors examine, critique and expand the methodologies and sources used in fashion history, analyse how dress is collected, displayed and sold, and investigate clothing's meanings and uses in the practice of identity. Exploring overlooked territories and new approaches to analysis, the book offers students and scholars a fresh appraisal of dress history in the 21st century.

Based on years of archival research in Madrid and Barcelona, this interdisciplinary study offers a fresh approach to understanding how men visualized themselves and their place in a nation that struggled to modernize after nearly a century of civil war, colonial entanglement, and imperial loss. Masculine Figures is the first study to provide a comprehensive overview of competing models of masculinity in nineteenth-century Spain, and is particularly novel in its treatment of Catalan texts and previously unstudied evidence (e.g., department store catalogs, commercial advertisements, fashion plates, and men's tailoring journals). Fictional masculinity performs a symbolic role in representing and negotiating the contradictions male novelists often encountered in their attempts to professionalize not only as writers, but also as businessmen, professors, lawyers, and politicians. Through specific and recurring figures like the student, the priest, the businessman, and the heir, male novelists represent an increasingly middle-class world at odds with the values and virtues it inherited from an imperial Spanish past, and those it imported from more industrialized nations like England and France. The visual culture of the time and place marks the material turn in middle-class masculinity and sets the stage for discussions of race and sexuality. Significant chapter sections on the used clothing trade (in the Rastro flea market in Madrid, also called "Las AmEricas" during the nineteenth century) and the "indiano businessman" (the colonial returnee) discuss the racial implications of fashion of the period-in the first example, through the racialized discourse of contagion that hygienists used to frame the market. In the second example, the book discusses the ways the Catalan indiano "accessorizes" himself with racialized commodities like pocket watches and tobacco and objectified/infantilized figures like Black house servants and footmen.

Choice Outstanding Academic Title 2014 In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the 'peacock male' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men's clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. The study explores design issues and period style in advertising, the role of market research and consumer psychology in determining target audiences, the idea of the 'new man' in representing fashionable masculinities, and the various ways that menswear retailers and brands dealt with sex and gender, race, class and age. From y-fronts to Austin Reed suits to Levi's jeans, menswear advertising epitomised the themes, stereotypes, contradictions and ambiguities of masculinity in an age of great social change. This meticulously researched and detailed work of scholarship will be essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, advertising, media, cultural and gender studies.

A fully updated, third edition of this essential practical foundation course in fashion design. Becoming a successful fashion designer involves understanding a wide variety of core principles. This foundation course is an ideal introduction for students, dressmakers and anyone interested in the creative side of fashion. Step-by-step tutorials, practical exercises and inspirational interviews with industry professionals teach you how to create your own unique fashion design collections. Design schools around the world are now emphasising design thinking and conceptualisation more than just mere skill building. Packed with scores of new images, this new and fully updated edition provides students with more diverse methods of creating fashion, including digital design iteration and final projects, fabric design development, 3D 'sketching' on the dress form, paper collage design techniques and much more. This book concludes with practical advice for anyone considering a career in fashion, offering ideas on building a portfolio, preparing for interviews and continuing on a path to a professional career.

This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. Why are civil authorities in so-called liberal democracies affronted by public nudity and the Islamic full-face 'veil'? Why is law and civil order so closely associated with robes, gowns, suits, wigs and uniforms? Why is law so concerned with the 'evident' and the need for justice to be 'seen' to be done? Why do we dress and obey dress codes at all? In this, the first ever study devoted to the many deep cultural connections between dress and law, the author addresses these questions and more. His responses flow from the radical thesis that 'law is dress and dress is law'. Engaging with sources from The Epic of Gilgamesh to Shakespeare, Carlyle, Dickens and Damien Hirst, Professor Watt draws a revealing history of dress and civil order and offers challenging conclusions about the nature of truth and the potential for individuals to fit within the forms of civil life.

Little Book of Chanel is the pocket-sized and beautifully illustrated story of the most celebrated fashion designer in history. Chronicling the life and legacy of Coco Chanel, one of fashion's most influential couturiers, this gorgeous book offers a fascinating account of Chanel's evolution and innovation. From her early days of millinery, through her revolutionary inventions in sportswear and jersey fashions for women, to the classics that made her name, such as the Chanel cardigan jacket, little black dress and exquisite perfumes. Detailed photographs and sketches of Chanel's designs, along with fashion photography and catwalk shots, pay tribute to one of the world's most highly regarded fashion houses and the woman behind it, making a striking gift for any lover of fashion.

Management technique and operation strategies vary depending on the particular industry. This allows businesses in that industry to thrive and increase competitive advantage. Fashion and Textiles: Breakthroughs in Research and Practice is a critical source of academic knowledge on the latest business and management perspectives within the fashion and textiles industry. Highlighting a range of pertinent topics such as marketing, consumer behavior, and value creation, this book is an ideal reference source for academics, professionals, researchers, students, and practitioners interested in emerging trends in global fashion and textile management.

Naomi Campbell is a phenomenon. Still very much at the top of her game after nearly four decades in the fashion industry, news of her trailblazing work, both on and off the catwalk, continues to hit the front pages as she pushes the boundaries of the fashion world. Inspiring, creative, energetic and most definitely iconic, Campbell stands apart as a unique force.

Opening with a specially commissioned interview by Tim Blanks, this book showcases more than 20 of the most eloquent ensembles from across her career, personally selected and discussed by Campbell herself. It also explores the different facets of her success - from her work as a model, a muse and brand builder, to life beyond the catwalk as a cultural leader with her unerring support of emerging designers.

With spectacular looks from Azzedine Alaïa, Gianni Versace, Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Kenneth Ize - to name but a few - this is an exclusive look into the world of one of fashion's most talented and enduring personalities.

London may have Savile Row and Paris its luxury houses, but nowhere can compete with the essence of Italy's nonchalant elegance: sprezzatura. This book presents the most in-depth look at the designers, tailors and artisans who for generations have defined the very notion of Italian style. From such fabled names as Rubinacci and Kiton to highly sought-after global brands like Zegna, more than fifty iconic Italian menswear houses are featured for their individual style and commitment to upholding the values of quality and timelessness. Featuring lavish photographs, with close-ups of subtle, exquisite details, most taken specially for this publication, The Italian Gentleman explores the world behind the finished garments - the ateliers and hidden shops where legends are born. Including iconic brands alongside fabric mills, shirting, accessories and shoemaking, this timely publication is a tribute to true Italian style with today's modern man in mind.

A sumptuous treasury of Dior scarves.

Plain and elaborate, commonplace and precious, fashionable and timeless, masculine and feminine: Dior’s silk scarves form a unique visual repertoire and cover a gamut of palettes, themes and styles. The epitome of Parisian chic, they express the poetic imagination of the creative directors who have shaped the destiny of the house, from Christian Dior to Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Unveiling the history and artistry of Dior’s scarves from the first designs to today, this sumptuous book celebrates their incredible variety and beauty as never before. At its heart is an atlas of over 400 scarves, organized by theme and printed on a delicate paper that replicates the texture of the scarves themselves. Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has overseen the creation of this volume, contributes a foreword. The atlas is supplemented by exclusive visual essays from renowned photographers Brigitte Niedermair and Pol Baril, as well as texts by distinguished fashion historians Maria Luisa Frisa, Claire Allen-Johnstone, Elda Danese and Emilie Hammen.

From vibrant opulence to graphic harmony, every scarf conveys a mood and every one tells a story. Those stories are now brought together in a book that will delight all aficionados of this symbol of timeless elegance.

Tongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile by anthropologists and art historians alike, little is known about its history. Providing a unique insight into Polynesian material culture, this book explores barkcloth's rich cultural history, and argues that its manufacture, decoration and use are vehicles of creativity and female agency. Based on twelve years of extensive ethnographic and archival research, the book uncovers stories of ceremony, gender, the senses, religion and nationhood, from the 17th century up to the present-day. Placing the materiality of textiles at the heart of Tongan culture, Veys reveals not only how barkcloth was and continues to be made, but also how it defines what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study to explore the place of barkcloth in the European imagination, she examines international museum collections of Tongan barkcloth, from the UK and Italy to Switzerland and the USA, addressing the bias of the European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings of the cloth. A nuanced narrative of past and present barkcloth manufacture, designs and use, Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth demonstrates the importance of the textile to both historical and contemporary Polynesian culture.

From 1976 to 1978, the young photographer Simon Barker was a member of the "Bromley Contingent"--a group of avid Sex Pistols fans who comprised the group's inner circle at the height of the punk movement. Many of them, such as Jordan and Siouxsie Sioux, were notorious for their daredevil dress sense, and several--such as Sioux, Steven Severin, Adam Ant, Poly Styrene, Billy Idol, Viv Albertine and Ari Up--went on to form some of the most important bands of the era. This compilation of previously unseen photographs by Barker shows these founders of punk in their earliest incarnations--in bedrooms and kitchens, at public gigs and private parties--before media and commerce sunk their claws into punk's iconoclastic look and class politics. Taken with the simplest and cheapest pocket cameras, the photographs in this collection constitute Barker's "family album for the years 1976 to 1978." In the spirit of the Pistols' "God Save the Queen," the volume closes with a photographic sequence taken by Barker during the 1976 Jubilee celebrations, which shows Romanian tyrant Nicolae Ceausescu hobnobbing with the Queen of England in the royal procession.

Mere clothing is transformed into desirable fashion by the way it is represented in imagery. Fashion's Double examines how meanings are projected onto garments through their representation, whether in painting, photography, cinema or online fashion film, conveying identity and status, eliciting fascination and desire. With in-depth case studies including the work of Nick Knight and Helmut Newton, film examples such as The Hunger Games, music video Girl Panic by Duran Duran, and much more, this book analyses the interrelationship between clothing, identity, embodiment, representation and self-representation. Written for students and scholars alike, Fashion's Double will appeal to anyone studying fashion, cultural studies, art theory and history, photography, sociology, and film.

With the massive amount of brands present in the market and the abundance of products offered, identifying a brand has become increasingly difficult. Developing a trademark is now an absolute necessity: a brand must multiply the signals which set its message apart from everyone else.This book will analyse and help conceive the identification codes a brand will use on all its communication grounds - logos, signage and packaging - without forgetting marketing and merchandising strategies.

Arguably the most famous perfume in the world - most memorably endorsed by Marilyn Monroe - Chanel No 5 continues to fascinate and claims millions of devotees around the world. Created in 1921 by Coco Chanel, the perfume was one of the first to use synthetics. To complement her pioneering fashion, Chanel wanted to give the modern woman 'a perfume, but an artificial perfume...not rose or lily of the valley...a perfume that is compound', presented in a distinctively pared-back glass bottle that would become an icon in its own right (inspiring a series of works by Andy Warhol decades later). Presented in two volumes (one on the early years of Chanel No 5 from 1921 to 1945, the other on the period in which Chanel No. 5 went truly global, from the postwar years to today), Chanel No 5 explores the evolution of the perfume's packaging, composition, manufacture and marketing, with unprecedented access to the Chanel archives and those tasked with creating the fragrance today. The world's leading creatives have lent their talents to the perfume's advertising campaigns, which are given pride of place in the book, from photographers such as Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton, to film directors including Ridley Scott and Baz Luhrmann, and stylish muses - Coco Chanel herself, of course, as well as Suzy Parker, Catherine Deneuve, Nicole Kidman, Gisele Bundchen and Lily-Rose Depp. With over 750 illustrations

Our dress is our identity. In dress, we live, move and have our social being. This book shows how the dressed body is central to the construction of a recognizable identity and provides accessible accounts of the particular dress ‘ ways’ associated with a considerable variety of lifestyles. Churchgoers, ballerinas, Muslim schoolgirls, glamour models, ‘ vampires’ , monks and country gents all fashion a social self through dress. These cultures all have characteristic forms of displaying the dressed body for social visibility - whether in religion, sex, performance, or on the street. In contrast to much of the literature on dress, which often assumes a lack of agency on the part of the wearer, contributors to this book focus on the conscious manipulation of dress to reflect an identity that is designed to look ‘ different’ .
Why do people choose to mark themselves off socially from others? What are the costs and benefits? For every dress ‘ identity’ , there is a corresponding set of entitlements and expectations as to behaviour and belief. ‘ Priestly’ bodies inhabit a different universe of response from strippers, just as ‘ Gothic’ bodies experience the public gaze differently from ‘ Methodist’ ones. Where one look commands respect in one setting, in another it can incite antipathy and rejection. Contributors tackle head-on this ‘ paradox of dress’ - its potent power to unite and divide. Evidence of the dressed body’ s social ambiguity as a medium of consensus, on the one hand, and conflict, on the other, provides a glimpse through dress into an elementary condition of social and cultural lifethat has all too rarely been part of historical and sociological discourse.

The marriage between flowers and fashion has never been more pronounced than when seen in the work of Yves Saint Laurent. This retrospective examines Yves Saint Laurent’s use of flowers from their symbolism to their fruition on the runway.

Flowers in every form inspired fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, serving as a leitmotif in his work. His passion for plants manifested itself in countless patterns and techniques, and he adorned women in floral appliqués, prints, and embroideries. From a thousand and one rose buds to sprigs of lily of the valley, from an avalanche of bougainvillea to delicate poppy touches, and from sheaves of wheat to majestic lilies, nature was an essential part of his visual palette.

Through the discerning eyes of Olivier Saillard, this veritable garden of Yves Saint Laurent’s designs―culled from a broad range of styles―metamorphoses into a bouquet of flowering silhouettes. Under the direction of Elsa Janssen and Alexis Sornin, essays from Emanuele Coccia, Marc Jeanson, and Serena Bucalo Mussely explore, respectively, the symbolism of flowers, characteristics of his recurring prints, and the designer’s signature use of flora in accessories.

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.