In Victorian England, women's accessories were always much more than incidental finishing touches to their elaborate dress. Accessories helped women to fashion their identities.Victorian Fashion Accessories explores how women's use of gloves, parasols, fans and vanity sets revealed their class, gender and colonial aspirations. The colour and fit of a pair of gloves could help a middle-class woman indicate her class aspirations.The sun filtering through a rose-colored parasol would provide a woman of a certain age with the glow of youth. The use of a fan was a socially acceptable means of attracting interest and flirting.Even the choice of vanity set on a woman's bedroom dresser reflected her complicity with colonial expansion. By paying attention to the particular details of women's accessories we discover the beliefs embedded in these artefacts and enhance our understanding of the culture at large. Beaujot's engaging prose illuminates the complex identities of the women who used accessories in the Victorian culture that created and consumed them. Victorian Fashion Accessories is essential reading for students and scholars of, history, gender studies, cultural studies, material culture and fashion studies, as well as anyone interested in the history of dress.

The ultimate guide to achieving beautiful and inspirational quilt blocks. Modern Japanese quilting uses Eastern and Western techniques to create quilts of extraordinary beauty. This book is a treasury of more than 125 block designs, characterised by their use of beautiful oriental textiles, unusual motifs and striking colour combinations. Choose from patchwork, applique and sashiko blocks, organised into themed sections based on geometric, pictorial and family crest designs. All the techniques you will need are clearly demonstrated. Each design features a photograph, clear instructional diagram or template, fabric palette and cutting guide, and instructions for making the block. At-a-glance icons indicate skill level and techniques used. All of the blocks can be mixed and matched, and you will find examples of fail-safe block combinations for stylish quilts, from tessellated all-over patterns to spectacular sampler quilts.

"Performance, Fashion and the Modern Interior "examines the interior as a "stage" upon which modern life and lifestyles are consciously fashioned and "performed," and from which modern identities are projected by and through design. Scholars from Europe, Canada, America and Australia present a range of interior environments--domestic interiors, sets for stage and film, exhibition spaces, art galleries, hotel lobbies, cafes and retail spaces--to explore each as an intersection of fashion, lifestyle and performance. Sharing the thesis that the fashionably dressed body and the interior can be seen as part of the same creative and expressive continuum, the essays highlight the ways in which interiors can give shape to and dramatize modern life.

This fun volume from fashion experts Fashionary tracks the rise to fame of the most influential designers in fashion. This visual book walks you through the stories of the world's greatest designers, across the decades. Explore each of the legend's life choices, learn how they adapted to trends and adversities, and discover how the fashion industry has changed over the years. Filled with timelines and fascinating graphics that place each fashion designer on the world stage. This volume shares appraisals of 50 of the most important fashion designers and their iconic status. Alongside star designers such as Coco Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, Cristobal Balenciaga, and the most influential fashion designers in the fashion industry, it is filled with historical information about the brands and biographies. A special treat for anyone who loves fashion. Fashion Legends included: Coco Chanel, Cristo bal Balenciaga, Christian Dior , Pierre Balmain, Emilio Pucci , Pierre Cardin , Hubert de Givenchy , Mary Quant , Sonia Rykiel , Valentino Garavani, Oscar de la Renta , Karl Lagerfeld , Giorgio Armani , Azzedine Alai a, Yves Saint Laurent , Issey Miyake , Kenzo Takada, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli , Vivienne Westwood , Rei Kawakubo , Calvin Klein , Yohji Yamamoto , Jil Sander , Paul Smith , Gianni Versace , Diane Von Fu rstenberg, Donna Karan , Miuccia Prada , Franco Moshino , Tommy Hilger , Jean Paul Gaultier , Helmut Lang , Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, Micheal Kors , Ann Demeulemeester , John Galliano , Alber Elbaz , Tom Ford , Marc Jacobs , Thom Browne , Raf Simons , Hedi Slimane , Alexander Mcqueen , Hussein Chalayan , Nicolas Ghesquie re, Stella McCartney, Riccardo Tisci

Activated Carbon Fiber and Textiles provides systematic coverage of the fundamentals, properties, and current and emerging applications of carbon fiber textiles in a single volume, providing industry professionals and academics working in the field with a broader understanding of these materials. Part I discusses carbon fiber principles and production, including precursors and pyrolysis, carbon fiber spinning, and carbonization and activation. Part II provides more detailed analysis of the key properties of carbon fiber textiles, including their thermal, acoustic, electrical, adsorption, and mechanical behaviors. The final section covers applications of carbon fiber such as filtration, energy protection, and energy and gas storage.

'Fascinating' Sunday Times 'Deeply sourced and rich with anecdotes' The Times 'Like a nonfiction version of The Devil Wears Prada' Elizabeth Day 'Odell's extensive reporting dredges up a wealth of delightful details' New York Times This definitive biography of Anna Wintour chronicles the steep climb of an ambitious young woman who would, with singular and legendary focus, become the most powerful woman in media. As a child, Anna Wintour was a tomboy with no apparent interest in clothing but, seduced by the miniskirts and bob haircuts of swinging 1960s London, she grew into a fashion-obsessed teenager. Her father, the influential editor of the Evening Standard, loomed large in her life, and once he decided she should become editor in chief of Vogue, she never looked back. Impatient to start her career, she left high school and got a job at a fashionable boutique in London - an experience that would be the first of many defeats. Undeterred, she found work in the competitive world of magazines, eventually moving to New York. Before long, Anna's journey to Vogue became a battle to ascend, no matter who or what stood in her way. Once she was crowned editor in chief - in one of the stormiest transitions in fashion magazine history - she continued the fight to retain her enviable position, ultimately rising to dominate all of Conde Nast. Based on extensive interviews with Anna Wintour's closest friends and collaborators, including some of the biggest names in fashion, journalist Amy Odell has crafted the most revealing portrait of Wintour ever published. Weaving Anna's personal story into a larger narrative about the hierarchical dynamics of the fashion industry and the complex world of Conde Nast, Anna charts the relentless ambition of the woman who would become an icon.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

Moroccan garment design and consumption have experienced major shifts in recent history, transforming from a traditional craft-based enterprise to a thriving fashion industry. Influenced by western fashion, dress has become commoditized and has expanded from tailoring to designer labels. This book presents the first detailed ethnographic study of Moroccan fashion. Drawing on interviews with three generations of designers and the lifestyle press, the author provides an in-depth analysis of the development of urban dress, which reveals how traditional dress has not been threatened but rather produced and consumed in different ways. With chapters examining themes such as dress and politics, gender, faith, modernity, and exploring topics from craft to e-fashion, this book will be essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, material culture, sociology, cultural studies, gender studies and related fields.

Art and fashion have long gone hand in hand, but it was during the modernist period that fashion first gained equal value to - and took on the same aesthetic ideals as - painting, film, photography, dance, and literature. Combining high and low art forms, modernism turned fashion designers into artists and vice versa. Bringing together internationally renowned scholars across a range of disciplines, this vibrant volume explores the history and significance of the relationship between modernism and fashion and examines how the intimate connection between these fields remains evident today, with contemporary designers relating their work to art and artists problematizing fashion in their works. With chapters on a variety topics ranging from Russian constructionism and clothing to tango and fashion in the early 20th century, Fashion and Modernism is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, dress history, and art history alike. Contributors: Patrizia Calefato, Caroline Evans, Ulrich Lehmann, Astrid Soederbergh Widding, Alessandra Vaccari, Olga Vainshtein, Sven-Olov Wallenstein

Clothes are inherently geographical objects, yet few of us consider the social and economic significance of their journey from design to production to consumption. The Geographies of Fashion is the first in-depth study of fashion economies from a geographer's perspective, exploring the complex relationship between our attachment to the clothes we own, love and desire, and their geographic and economic ties. How far does a garment physically travel from factory to wardrobe? How do clothes come to have social or economic value and who or what creates it? What are the geographies of fashion and how do they interact with one another? This ground-breaking book powerfully reframes fashion spaces, from the body to the city, digital or virtual space to material production, positioning fashion at the centre of contemporary culture and collective identities. Combining contemporary theoretical approaches with a cutting-edge analysis of international fashion brands and institutions including Maison Martin Margiela, Zara, Louis Vuitton, ASOS and Savile Row, The Geographies of Fashion is essential reading for students of fashion, geography and related disciplines including sociology, architecture and design.

Fetish Style traces the history, forms and tendencies of sub-cultural fashions that are popular in both mainstream and alternative fashion cultures. Presenting the world of subcultural fetish clothing design in all of its richness and beauty, this book explores the idea of fetish as subversive and repressive as reflected in clothing choices in people of all ages and cultures. Linking the fetishistic aspects of contemporary culture with everyday clothing as dictated by fashion and merchandizing, Fetish Style presents a fascinating study of historical as well as 21st century subcultures. Case studies include the Japanese-influenced 'tribes' of the various Lolita formations, the Shotaru (male Lolita), the club scene, the Goths, the hip-hop fashions and other locally-formed fetishized practices. Fetish Style will be key reading for anyone interested in fetish fashion both past and present.

Changing trends in fashion have always reflected large-scale social and cultural changes. Changing Fashion presents for the first time a multi-disciplinary approach to examining fashion change, bringing together theory from fashion studies, cultural studies, sociology, psychology and art history, amongst others. Ideal for the undergraduate student of fashion and cultural studies, the book has a wide range of contemporary and historical case material which provides practical examples of trend analysis and change, from the art deco textile designs of Sonia Delaunay to the chameleonic shifts in Bob Dylan's appearance over time. Key issues in fashion and identity, such as race, gender and consumption are examined from different disciplinary angles to provide a critical overview of the field. Changing Fashion provides a concise guide to the main theories across disciplines that explain how and why media, clothing styles, and cultural practices fall in and out of fashion.

A comprehensive analysis of Second World War dress practice and appearance, this study places dress at the forefront of a complex series of cultural chain reactions. As lives were changed by the conditions of war, dress continued to reflect important visual narratives regarding class, gender and taste that would impact significantly on public consciousness of equality, fairness and morale. Using new archival and primary source evidence, Wartime Fashion clarifies how and why clothing was rationed, and repositions style and design during the war in relation to past expectations and ideas about clothes and fabrics. The book explores the impact of war on the dress and appearance of civilian women of all classes in the context of changing social and economic infrastructures created by the national emergency. The varied research elements combined in this book form a rounded and definitive account of the dress history of British women during the Second World War. This is essential reading for anyone with an active interest in the field, whether personal or professional.

There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garcons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change.

From digital-display dresses to remote control couture, this book exposes the revolutionary interface between contemporary fashion and technology. As twenty-first century fashion makes a dramatic departure from traditional methods, designers no longer turn to the past for inspiration, but look to the hi-tech future. The result is techno fashion, the new wave of intelligent clothing that fuses fashion with communication technology, electronic textiles, and sophisticated design innovations that express new ideas about appearance, construction and wearability. Born out of the collaboration between fashion designers, researchers and scientists, this new dialogue could be the most significant design innovation in fashion's history, or indicate its eventual demise. Either way, techno fashion promises to forever disrupt the historical narrative of fashion evolution. Through interviews with designers ranging from innovators such as Hussein Chalayan and Tristan Webber to mavericks like Alexander McQueen, Bradley Quinn examines the impact of this new direction. The fusion of design and technology introduced by Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake has created another direction for clothing, creating a new breed of designer-cum-scientist who redefines the way we dress, communicate, and even respond to environmental changes. As technology begins to shape fashion's future, it redefines the boundaries between clothing, body and machine, forever transforming the ethics and lifestyles traditionally designated by codes of dress.