Despite its long eclipse by Parisian couture, Italian fashion is now celebrated globally for the quality of its tailoring, fabric and design. But an Italian label was not always a yardstick for excellence. In the twenty years following the Second World War, a little known fact is that America played a key role in the development of Italy's fashion industry. More generally known is that the Marshall Plan had a formative influence on the financial and industrial reorganization of Italian postwar reconstruction. But America's specific influence on the regeneration of the Italian textile industry has been largely passed over, despite the meteoric rise of design houses such as Max Mara, Gucci and Prada.However, while American interest was central to the industrial and stylistic expansion of Italian fashion, the lessons learned were combined with Italian ideas and energies to create fashions with a distinctly Italian edge. This book reveals that a deliberate effort went into the development of an Italian national identity in fashion design, partially in response to American interest. Drawing on a wide range of sources, notably the testimonies of key witnesses, contemporary media reports and surviving garments, this book contributes to the scant research on twentieth century Italian dress and specifically exposes for the first time the depth of American involvement in Italian fashion in a crucial phase of its development.

London may have Savile Row and Paris its luxury houses, but nowhere can compete with the essence of Italy's nonchalant elegance: sprezzatura. This book presents the most in-depth look at the designers, tailors and artisans who for generations have defined the very notion of Italian style. From such fabled names as Rubinacci and Kiton to highly sought-after global brands like Zegna, more than fifty iconic Italian menswear houses are featured for their individual style and commitment to upholding the values of quality and timelessness. Featuring lavish photographs, with close-ups of subtle, exquisite details, most taken specially for this publication, The Italian Gentleman explores the world behind the finished garments - the ateliers and hidden shops where legends are born. Including iconic brands alongside fabric mills, shirting, accessories and shoemaking, this timely publication is a tribute to true Italian style with today's modern man in mind.

How transnational modernity is taking shape in and in relation to Asia Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia considers the role of bodily aesthetics in the shaping of Asian modernities and the formation of the so-called "Asian Century." S. Heijin Lee, Christina H. Moon, and Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu train our eyes on sites as far-flung, varied, and intimate as Guangzhou and Los Angeles, Saigon and Seoul, New York and Toronto. They map the transregional connections, ever-evolving aspirations and sensibilities, and new worlds and life paths forged through engagements with fashion and beauty. Contributors consider American influence on plastic surgery in Korea, Vietnamese debates about "the fashionable," and the costs and commitments demanded of those who make and wear fast fashion, from Chinese garment workers to Nepalese nail technicians in New York who are mandated to dress "fashionably." In doing so, this interdisciplinary anthology moves beyond common characterizations of Asians and the Asian diaspora as simply abject laborers or frenzied consumers, analyzing who the modern Asian subject is now: what they wear and how they work, move, eat, and shop.

From rococo to Edwardian fashions, Japanese street style has reinvented many western dress styles, reinterpreting and altering their meanings and messages in a different cultural and historical context. This wide ranging and original study reveals the complex exchange of styles and what they represent in Japan and beyond, contesting common perceptions of gender in Japanese dress and the notion that non-western fashions simply imitate western styles. Through case studies focussing on fashion image consumption in style tribes such as Kamikaze Girls, Lolita, Edwardian, Ivy Style, Victorian, Romantic and Kawaii, this ground-breaking book investigates the complexities of dress and gender and demonstrates the flexible nature of contemporary fashion and style exchange in a global context. Japanese Fashion Cultures will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, gender studies, media studies and related fields.

'Fascinating' Sunday Times 'Deeply sourced and rich with anecdotes' The Times 'Like a nonfiction version of The Devil Wears Prada' Elizabeth Day 'Odell's extensive reporting dredges up a wealth of delightful details' New York Times This definitive biography of Anna Wintour chronicles the steep climb of an ambitious young woman who would, with singular and legendary focus, become the most powerful woman in media. As a child, Anna Wintour was a tomboy with no apparent interest in clothing but, seduced by the miniskirts and bob haircuts of swinging 1960s London, she grew into a fashion-obsessed teenager. Her father, the influential editor of the Evening Standard, loomed large in her life, and once he decided she should become editor in chief of Vogue, she never looked back. Impatient to start her career, she left high school and got a job at a fashionable boutique in London - an experience that would be the first of many defeats. Undeterred, she found work in the competitive world of magazines, eventually moving to New York. Before long, Anna's journey to Vogue became a battle to ascend, no matter who or what stood in her way. Once she was crowned editor in chief - in one of the stormiest transitions in fashion magazine history - she continued the fight to retain her enviable position, ultimately rising to dominate all of Conde Nast. Based on extensive interviews with Anna Wintour's closest friends and collaborators, including some of the biggest names in fashion, journalist Amy Odell has crafted the most revealing portrait of Wintour ever published. Weaving Anna's personal story into a larger narrative about the hierarchical dynamics of the fashion industry and the complex world of Conde Nast, Anna charts the relentless ambition of the woman who would become an icon.

As in a grammar book, this volume looks at the foundations and rules of the Western wardrobe. By exploring each garment with its functions that often called for extremely precise details, we have developed a teaching tool for the general public, using pieces from the author's enormous collection, to help understand the attraction and appeal of a specific garment. This second book, which focuses on breeches and trousers, offers secrets that were the foundation for what ended up as a social evolution - Wearing the Trousers. Both an introductory book and a reference document on the culture of fashion, this second book of the series looks at breeches and trousers from yesterday and today. It helps better understand the changes in these garments for men and especially for women, moving from ready-to-wear for the city to leisure activities.

From colorful threads found on the floor of an ancient Georgian cave to the Indian calicoes that fueled the Industrial Revolution, The Golden Thread illuminates the myriad and fascinating histories behind the cloths that came to define human civilization-the fabric, for example, that allowed mankind to shatter athletic records, and the textile technology that granted us the power to survive in space. Exploring the enduring association of textiles with "women's work," Kassia St. Clair "spins a rich social history . . . that also reflects the darker side of technology" (Rachel Newcomb, Washington Post).

The connection between fashion, femininity, frivolity and Frenchness has become a cliche. Yet, relegating fashion to the realm of frivolity and femininity is a distinctly modern belief that developed along with the urban culture of the Enlightenment. In eighteenth-century France, a commercial culture filled with shop girls, fashion magazines and window displays began to supplant a court-based fashion culture based on rank and distinction, stimulating debates over the proper relationship between women and commercial culture, public and private spheres, and morality and taste. Mary Wollstonecraft was one of those particularly critical of this 'vulgar' obsession with 'tawdry finery', declaring it to be 'merely the external mark of a depravity shared with slaves'. The story of how la mode was 'sexed' as feminine offers a compelling insight into the political, economic and cultural tensions that marked the birth of modern commercial culture. Jones examines men's and women's relation to fashion at this time, looking at both consumption and production to argue how clothing was becoming increasingly conceptualized as feminine/effeminate. A concise history of French fashion culture suitable for anyone interested in eighteenth-century culture, women and gender studies or fashion history.

This comprehensive survey of women's fashion footwear, with more than 1,000 photos, includes every type of fashion shoe that has walked through the century, from the 1900s through the early 2000s. Along with a decade-by-decade photo timeline, with detailed information on each shoe's design and craftsmanship, every aspect of shoes is also explained. Starting with a clear explanation of the fundamentals of shoe design and the parts of the shoe, this treasure trove of info goes on to cover the great shoe designers and well-known brands, and the many cultural and societal influences and trends that shoes reflected. Special sections explore the health of the fashionable foot, the care and preservation of antique and vintage footwear, and the role of the celebrity shoe designer.

"The Swimsuit: Fashion from Poolside to Catwalk "documents the modern swimsuit's trajectory from men's underwear and circus/performance wear to its unique niche in world fashion. It emphasizes the relationship between fashion, media, celebrity, sport and the cultivation of the modern body. This fascinating book provides an historical, sociological and cultural context in which to view how the swimsuit - and Australia, the country that significantly influenced its modern form - migrated from the cultural and colonial periphery to the centre of international attention. In addition, the book offers new perspectives on national histories of the swimsuit and investigates how traditional European fashion centers have opened up to new markets and modes of living, bringing together influences from around the globe. "The Swimsuit "is essential reading for students, scholars, and the general reader interested in fashion, popular culture, history, media, sport, and gender studies.

Crochet your own shawls, wraps, capelets and more from this collection of stylish patterns Shawls are a simple yet colourful way to liven up your wardrobe - they are comforting and cosy, but they can also be stylish and delicate. Modern Crocheted Shawls and Wraps has 35 patterns ranging from a simple, slip-on crochet wrap, to a large open-work pattern shawl. There are lace-patterned shawls to throw over your shoulders at a party, or capelets to add a layer of warmth to your outfit on chilly days. Granny hexagons and stars are used to make giant rectangular wraps, while star stitch and popcorn stitch add texture and weight. There's even a 'stash-buster' pattern with a mix-and-match border designed to use up your colourful leftover yarns. Many of the shawls would make excellent gifts - particularly as 'prayer shawls' - and of course, one size fits all! This collection of patterns from Laura Strutt features her usual up-to-date style and modern pallette of brights, variegated yarns, and neutrals, while many of the patterns use the increasingly popular super-chunky and variegated yarns. First Published in 2016, this is a new edition.

For an undergraduate course in Patternmaking. Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this #1 text offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles-dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring-it provides students with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity.

Hailed as 'the most influential female designer of the twentieth century', Coco Chanel pioneered classic easy-to-wear fashion for the modern woman. She arrived on the fashion scene when feathers, lace and ostentatious beads were favourites, and proceeded to re-invent couture using new materials, like jersey, for outfits that were suitable for everyday wear yet still elegant. With original illustrations and images from celebrated photographers, such as Cecil Beaton, Bronwyn Cosgrave traces the story of Coco Chanel's iconic designs and glamorous, racy life. In 1921 Coco opened her Chanel boutique in Paris - still a destination store today - and launched her first perfume, Chanel No.5. Perhaps her most important contribution to the fashion world was the simple, much-imitated 'little black dress' which made its debut in 1926. Other landmark creations include the Chanel suit and the quilted handbag. A testament to her lasting influence, these legendary designs remain as popular today as when they first appeared. Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel was, without doubt, the most influential designer of the 20th century. This book honours her influence by celebrating the key elements that defined and still define her style through inspired pairings of classic and contemporary photographs. Juxtaposing fashion plates from Chanel's own time with the most recent creations by Karl Lagerfeld, such as Cecil Beaton's portrait of Coco Chanel presented alongside one of Cate Blanchett by Lagerfeld himself, the resonance between archive and contemporary photographs becomes sharp, vibrant and telling. The vocabulary of Chanel's style - the little black dress, baroque inspirations, androgynous chic - is revealed in eleven chapters that compare original forms in the 1920s with the full range of their later expressions through every fashion era. Chanel's legendary fashion house continues to captivate a huge audience with an insatiable appetite for one of fashion's undisputed style perennials.

Vienna may not be synonymous with fashion like its metropolitan counterparts Paris and Milan, but it is a fashionable city, one that historically has been structured by changing fashions and fashionable appearances. Like the "Litfasaule" in Orson Welles's 1949 urban noir masterpiece "The Third Man," into which Harry Lime escapes in order to avoid capture and which hapless visitors today presume are merely surfaces for advertising, there are many overlooked aspects of Vienna's distinct style and attitude. By focusing on fashion, "Wiener Chic" narrates Vienna's history through an interpretation of the material dimensions of Viennese cultural life--from architecture to arts festivals to the urban fabric of street chic.
The first book that connects Vienna and fashion with urban theory, "Wiener Chic" draws on material that is virtually unknown in an English-language context to give readers an insider's vantage point on an underappreciated European fashion capital.

This book is the first to explore handicrafting practiced by media fans, their online fan communities and the multiple meanings they create. Based on in-depth ethnographic research into fans on the online social network for knitters, crocheters and crafters, Ravelry, Brigid Cherry explores textile craft by fans as both an artistic practice and transformative fan work. Including case studies of projects inspired by Doctor Who, True Blood, Firefly, Harry Potter, Sherlock and steampunk, the book engages with many forms of fan production, including fan art, fan fiction and cosplay. Fans of popular films and TV shows are increasingly engaging with textile crafts as a way of reworking, reimagining and engaging with cult media texts. Proving a global phenomenon amongst fan cultures in the digital media sphere, traditional film and TV audiences are forging their fan identities and participating in wider fan communities in innovative ways through online craft forums and blogs that showcase their knitting, crochet, spinning and dyeing projects. Exploring key debates from textile and media theory, surrounding gender, domesticity, the culture industries, audiences and fan culture, this book is essential reading for students of textiles, media studies, fashion, cultural and gender studies.

Ahead of the Curve is the first sewing book to empower curvy and plus size women to feel body confident by sewing a wardrobe that fits. Don't change your body to fit your clothes - change your clothes to fit your body! Ahead of the Curve includes 5 basic garment patterns (UK sizes 16-36/US size 12-32/EUR sizes 44-64), which includes a pair of trousers, a t-shirt, a sleeveless top and two dress designs. Jenny takes you through a series of "Fit Clinics" - tutorials and case studies demystifying the fitting process - showing you how to adjust these patterns to master the perfect fit for your body shape. Once you have got to grips with this, you can go on to customize your closet and create an unlimited array of fantastic clothes that celebrate your body. If you're curvy or plus size, trying to find clothes that fit and reflect your personal style can be incredibly difficult and frustrating. Plus size women feel constantly excluded and like they can't express their personality through clothes. This book finally changes that.

This is the first in-depth, book-length study on fashion and Italian cinema from the silent film to the present. Italian cinema launched Italian fashion to the world. The book is the story of this launch. The creation of an Italian style and fashion as they are perceived today, especially by foreigners, was a product of the post World War II years. Before then, Parisian fashion had dominated Europe and the world. Just as fashion was part of Parisian and French national identity, the book explores the process of shaping and inventing an Italian style and fashion that ran parallel to, and at times took the lead in, the creation of an Italian national identity. In bringing to the fore these intersections, as well as emphasizing the importance of craft in cinema, fashion and costume design, the book aims to offer new visions of films by directors such as Nino Oxilia, Mario Camerini, Alessandro Blasetti, Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Luchino Visconti and Paolo Sorrentino, of film stars such as Lyda Borelli, Francesca Bertini, Pina Menichelli, Lucia Bose, Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, Toni Servillo and others, and the costume archives and designers who have been central to the development of Made in Italy and Italian style.

The Fashion Business Manual is everything you need to start building your fashion brand. It takes you step by step through building a brand from startup to retailing, using illustrations to break down complex business information into an easy-to-read visual format - making it a dynamic resource for fashion students, entrepreneurs and people in the fashion industry.