Exquisite blankets, sarapes and ponchos handwoven by southwestern
peoples are admired throughout the world. Despite many popularized
accounts, serious gaps have existed in our understanding of these
textiles--gaps that one man devoted years of scholarly attention to
address.
During much of his career, anthropologist Joe Ben Wheat
(1916-1997) earned a reputation as a preeminent authority on
southwestern and plains prehistory. Beginning in 1972, he turned
his scientific methods and considerable talents to historical
questions as well. He visited dozens of museums to study thousands
of nineteenth-century textiles, oversaw chemical tests of dyes from
hundreds of yarns, and sought out obscure archives to research the
material and documentary basis for textile development. His goal
was to establish a key for southwestern textile identification
based on the traits that distinguish the Pueblo, Navajo, and
Spanish American blanket weaving traditions--and thereby provide a
better way of identifying and dating pieces of unknown origin.
Wheat's years of research resulted in a masterful classification
scheme for southwestern textiles--and a book that establishes an
essential baseline for understanding craft production. Nearly
completed before Wheat's death, "Blanket Weaving in the Southwest"
describes the evolution of southwestern textiles from the early
historic period to the late nineteenth century, establishes a
revised chronology for its development, and traces significant
changes in materials, techniques, and designs.
Wheat first relates what Spanish observers learned about the
state of native weaving in the region--a historical review that
reveals the impact of new technologies andeconomies on a
traditional craft. Subsequent chapters deal with fibers, yarns,
dyes, and fabric structures--including an unprecedented examination
of the nature, variety, and origins of bayeta yarns--and with
tools, weaves, and finishing techniques.
A final chapter, constructed by editor Ann Hedlund from Wheat's
notes, provides clues to his evolving ideas about the development
of textile design. Hedlund--herself a respected textile scholar and
a protA(c)gA(c)e of Wheat's--is uniquely qualified to interpret the
many notes he left behind and brings her own understanding of
weaving to every facet of the text. She has ensured that Wheat's
research is applicable to the needs of scholars, collectors, and
general readers alike. Throughout the text, Wheat discusses and
evaluates the distinct traits of the three textile traditions. More
than 200 photos demonstrate these features, including 191 color
plates depicting a vast array of chief blankets, shoulder blankets,
ponchos, sarapes, diyugi, mantas, and dresses from museum
collections nationwide. In addition, dozens of line drawings
demonstrate the fine points of technique concerning weaves, edge
finishes, and corner tassels. Through his groundbreaking and
painstaking research, Wheat created a new view of southwestern
textile history that goes beyond any other book on the subject.
"Blanket Weaving in the Southwest" addresses a host of unresolved
issues in textile research and provides critical tools for
resolving them. It is an essential resource for anyone who
appreciates the intricacy of these outstanding creations.
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