Millions of immigrants were drawn to American shores, not by the
mythic streets paved with gold, but rather by its tables heaped
with food. How they experienced the realities of America's abundant
food--its meat and white bread, its butter and cheese, fruits and
vegetables, coffee and beer--reflected their earlier deprivations
and shaped their ethnic practices in the new land.
"Hungering for America" tells the stories of three distinctive
groups and their unique culinary dramas. Italian immigrants
transformed the food of their upper classes and of sacred days into
a generic "Italian" food that inspired community pride and
cohesion. Irish immigrants, in contrast, loath to mimic the
foodways of the Protestant British elite, diminished food as a
marker of ethnicity. And, East European Jews, who venerated food as
the vital center around which family and religious practice
gathered, found that dietary restrictions jarred with America's
boundless choices.
These tales, of immigrants in their old worlds and in the new,
demonstrate the role of hunger in driving migration and the
significance of food in cementing ethnic identity and community.
Hasia Diner confirms the well-worn adage, "Tell me what you eat and
I will tell you what you are."
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