Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) was undoubtedly the
most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. Her clothes
and accessories have remained perennially chic, and her legendary
fashion house continues to exert a powerful sway over today's
designers. Jerome Gautier tells the story of Chanel's iconic style
through hundreds of images, many taken by the leading lights of
fashion photography, including Richard Avedon, Gilles Bensimon,
Patrick Demarchelier, Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz, Man Ray,
Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, and Ellen von Unwerth. This innovative
volume pairs classic and contemporary photographs, placing fashion
plates from Chanel's time alongside those by the house's
designer-in-chief, Karl Lagerfeld. For instance, Cecil Beaton's
portrait of Chanel appears alongside Lagerfeld's image of Cate
Blanchett emulating her, and a classic plate by Henry Clarke flanks
an arresting shot by Juergen Teller.
Through these dazzling photographs, "Chanel: The Vocabulary of
Style" identifies key elements that have defined Chanel's style for
generations, such as jersey and tweed, formerly considered menswear
fabrics, and the little black dress, which transformed a hue
previously reserved for mourning into a statement of elegance.
Pearls were her staple, and she often embellished outfits with her
signature camellia. Eleven chapters compare the original forms of
these enduring trademarks with their later expressions over the
years and to the present day, letting the vocabulary of Chanel's
style speak for itself.
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