In this wide-ranging and comprehensive review of the historical development and current status of ocean circulation models, the analysis extends from simple analytical approaches to the latest high-resolution numerical models with data assimilation. The authors, both of whom are pioneer scientists in ocean and shelf sea modelling, look back at the evolution of Western and Eastern modelling methodologies during the second half of the last century. They also present the very latest information on ocean climate modelling and offer examples for a number of oceans and shelf seas.

The book includes a critical analysis of literature on ocean climate variability modelling, as well as assessing the strengths and weaknesses of the best-known modelling techniques. It also anticipates future developments in the field, focusing on models based on a synthesis of numerical simulation and field observation, and on nonlinear thermodynamic model data synthesis.

This book reviews and summarizes the results and hypotheses raised by studies directly or indirectly dealing with the ecology of fronts and aims to identify the themes that connect them to produce a synthesis of this knowledge. Though not immediately perceived the ocean is highly structured and fronts are one of the most important components of its structural complexity. Marine fronts have been known since the early 20th Century, however, the more recent availability of high resolution satellite imagery, field measurements and numerical simulations have greatly advanced our understanding of their ecological impact. This work touches on topics such as front types, its biology and its comparisons with other bounderies at sea, as well as comparisons of fronts with terrestrial boundaries and the 'ecotone' concept. Furthermore, it also looks at the management and conservation of marine life.

This guide details the techniques and numerical procedures required for numerical modelling of radioactivity dispersion in marine environments. The book goes beyond the basics of hydrodynamic modeling to analyze the latest trends in modeling.

One key uncertainty in predictions of future climate is caused by the lack of knowledge of transport processes in the air-water interface; this poses the main transfer resistance between oceans and atmosphere. This book reviews recent progress in the domains of experimental process studies as well as computer stimulation. It represents an early approach of merging insights gained in both fields and broadens our understanding of air-water gas and heat exchange.

The Asia and Pacific region is home to the world's largest concentration of coral reefs and mangroves. It accommodates two-thirds of the world's human population and its economic activities have the highest growth rate in the world. This book gives an overview of the state-of-the-art understanding on the drivers, state, and responses to the coastal environmental changes in the Asia and Pacific region. It provides important perspectives on the subject for researchers.

Ecological Informatics promotes interdisciplinary research between ecology and computer science on elucidation of principles of information processing in ecosystems, ecological sustainability by informed decision making, and bio-inspired computation. The 2nd edition of the book consolidates the scope, concepts, and techniques of this newly emerging discipline by a new preface and additional chapters on cellular automata, qualitative reasoning, hybrid evolutionary algorithms and artificial neural networks. It illustrates numerous applications of Ecological Informatics for aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems, image recognition at micro- and macro-scale as well as computer hardware design. Case studies focus on applications of artificial neural networks, evolutionary computation, cellular automata, adaptive agents, fuzzy logic as well as qualitative reasoning. The 2nd edition of the book includes an index with novel evolutionary algorithms for the discovery of multiple nonlinear functions and rule sets as well as parameter optimisation in complex ecological data.

Field Methods in Marine Science: From Measurements to Models is an authoritative guide of the methods most appropriate for field research within the marine sciences, from experimental design to data analysis. Written for upper-level undergraduate and graduate students as well as early-career researchers, this textbook also serves as an accessible introduction to the concepts and practice of modeling marine system dynamics. This textbook trains the next generation of field scientists to move beyond the classic methods of data collection and statistical analysis to contemporary methods of numerical modeling; to pursue the assimilation and synthesis of information, not the mere recording of data. Boxes and side bars highlight important questions, interesting facts, relevant examples, and research techniques that supplement the text. Students and researchers alike will find the thorough appendices useful as a way of expanding comprehension of fundamental concepts.

Originally published in Russian in 2006, this is the first English translation of this important book on paleoceanography and paleoclimatology. Its initial publication was followed by a surge of interest in this subject prompting the author to revise and translate her original work. In the book, she successfully summarizes her own research over recent years and compiles an overview of up-to-date knowledge on past ocean circulation. The key topics include: - Modern thermohaline circulation and main stages of its development during the Cenozoic - Methods and proxies of paleoceanographic reconstruction - Variability of the meridional overturning circulation and paleoceanographic events in the North Atlantic during the last climatic cycle - Influence of the global thermohaline circulation on paleoceanographic events in the Eurasian Arctic seas, the Northern Indian Ocean, and the South China Sea - The role of the thermohaline circulation in global teleconnections in the Antarctic, Eurasian Arctic, northern Pacific and low latitudes Indo-Pacific. Comprehensive investigation of hundreds of international publications and her own results, convinced the author that the global thermohaline circulation controls the remote teleconnections on millennial-scale and partly on centennial-scale, while short-term climate signals are mainly transferred by the atmosphere. This revised and extended English edition provides the latest unpublished data, new figures and modeling results. The extensive reference list contains more than 100 publications and 140 new references.

This book focuses on motions of incompressible ?uids of a freely moving surface being in?uenced by both the Earth's rotation and density strati?cation. In contrast to traditional textbooks in the ?eld of geophysical ?uid dynamics, such as those by by Cushman-Roisin (1994) and Gill (1982), this book uses the method of proce- oriented hydrodynamic modelling to illustrate a rich variety of ?uid phenomena. To this end, the reader can adopt the model codes, found on the Springer server accompanying this book, to reproduce most graphs of this book and, even better, to create animation movies. The reader can also employ the codes as templates for own independent studies. This can be done by a lay person as a hobby activity, undergraduate or postgraduate students as part of their education, or professional scientists as part of research. Exercises of this book are run with open-source software that can be freely downloaded from the Internet. This includes the FORTRAN 95 compiler "G95" used for execution of model simulations, the data visualisation program "SciLab", and "ImageMagick" for the creation of graphs and GIF animations, which can be watched with most Internet browsers.

Renewable energy resources now play an essential role in the energy supply debate, and especially a new interest in wind energy has resulted in the intensified construction of wind farms. Thanks to the growing demand for renewable energy, offshore wind farms (OWFs) are increasingly gaining in popularity, since yields over sea are greater and more reliable than over land. Against this background it is becoming particularly urgent to determine whether and if so to what extent such OWF expansion affects our oceans and local climates. OWFs produce a downstream wind speed reduction, the so-called wind-wake effect, which impacts atmospheric boundary layers, alters local wind characteristics and in turn affects ocean dynamics. This book will help readers to understand in detail these OWF-induced changes in the atmosphere and ocean by analyzing model simulations and measurements. In this context, OWF-induced upwelling and downwelling are key aspects.

It all began with Markus Jochum approaching one of us (HvS) - "when you guys are doing interviews with senior scientists from oceanography and related sciences, why are you not doing Walter Munk?" Indeed, why not? Walter Munk, an icon in oceanography, had just given a wonderful talk in a symposium in honor of his 90th birthday, sweeping a grand circle from his earliest work with Chip Cox on airborne measurements of ocean surface roughness to the latest satellite data - not simply a review, but the struggle of an active scientist opening up new perspectives - as inspiring and stimulating as when one of us (KH) rst met him at the Ocean Waves Conference in Easton in 1961 (Fig. I. 1). Walter immediately agreed to share with us his recollections on the nearly seventy years of his path-breaking contributions in a sheer amazing range of topics, from ocean waves, internal waves, ocean currents, tides, tsunamis, sea level, microseisms and the rotation of the earth to ocean acoustic tomography. With "you guys" Markus was referring to HvS and the various partners HvS had 1 invited to join him in conducting a series of interviews of retired colleagues.

Data assimilation methods were largely developed for operational weather forecasting, but in recent years have been applied to an increasing range of earth science disciplines. This book will set out the theoretical basis of data assimilation with contributions by top international experts in the field. Various aspects of data assimilation are discussed including: theory; observations; models; numerical weather prediction; evaluation of observations and models; assessment of future satellite missions; application to components of the Earth System. References are made to recent developments in data assimilation theory (e.g. Ensemble Kalman filter), and to novel applications of the data assimilation method (e.g. ionosphere, Mars data assimilation).

This book is dedicated to the study of structure and transport of deep and bottom waters above and through underwater channels of the Atlantic Ocean. The study is based on recent observations, analysis of historical data, and literature reviews. This approach allows us to understand how water transport and water mass prop- ties have changed over the last years and decades. The focus of our study is on the propagation of bottom waters in the Atlantic Ocean based on new field data at key points. At the end of the 1920s, the first integral study of water masses and bottom topography of the Central and South Atlantic was carried out from the German - search vessel Meteor. This German Atlantic Expedition was one of the first cruises equipped with the newly developed echo sounder (fathometer): an obligatory p- requisite for the investigation of bottom morphology in the deep sea on an - erational base. The results of the expedition were published by Wust, Defant, and colleagues in the multivolume METEOR publication series starting with the cruise report by the ship's commander (Spiess 1928, 1932). Historically, this series of p- lications, intermittently interrupted by World War II, was the basis for many years of research into the development of modern concepts about Atlantic water masses and their circulation schemes.

Pinxian Wang and Qianyu Li The South China Sea (SCS) (Fig. 1. 1) offers a special attraction for Earth scientists world-wide because of its location and its well-preserved hemipelagic sediments. As the largest one of the marginal seas separating Asia from the Paci?c, the largest continent from the largest ocean, the SCS functions as a focal point in land-sea int- actions of the Earth system. Climatically, the SCS is located between the Western Paci?c Warm Pool, the centre of global heating at the sea level, and the Tibetan Plateau, the centre of heating at an altitude of 5,000m. Geomorphologically, the SCS lies to the east of the highest peak on earth, Zhumulangma or Everest in the Himalayas (8,848m elevation) and to the west of the deepest trench in the ocean, Philippine Trench (10,497m water depth) (Wang P. 2004). Biogeographically, the SCS belongs to the so-called "East Indies Triangle" where modern marine and terrestrial biodiversity reaches a global maximum (Briggs 1999). Among the major marginal sea basins from the west Paci?c, the SCS presents some of the best conditions for accumulating complete paleoclimatic records in its hemipelagic deposits. These records are favorable for high-resolution pa- oceanographic studies because of high sedimentation rates and good carbonate preservation. It may not be merely a coincidence that two cores from the southern 14 SCS were among the ?rst several cores in the world ocean used by AMS C dating for high-resolution stratigraphy (Andree et al. 1986; Broecker et al. 1988).

This is a book on the practical side of tropical meteorology which in its 3 Parts covered in 12 chapters reviews several current theories and ideas on tropical circulations and monsoons, offering new definitions and ideas to facilitate a systematic development of the subject. The book emphasizes the need for a system's approach to tropical circulations in general and monsoons in particular to facilitate orderly and systematic development of the topic.

Flood Geomorphology describes and analyzes global causes, effects and dynamics of floods and includes methods for related environmental management. It reviews recent advances in the interdisciplinary study of floods and their effects on landforms, sediments, human works, and populations. The use of morphometric parameters of drainage basins is covered and standard procedures for measuring geomorphically significant variables following a major flood are established. Specific chapters present data on the neglected topic of sedimentation in bedrock fluvial systems, and discuss, from the viewpoint of Holocene stratigraphy, common alluvial systems leading to flood plains. The book includes numerous photographs, illustrations and diagrams of flood effects around the world.

Beach renourishment is the restoration of beaches that have been depleted. The text deals with the sources of beach sediment as well as the causes and typical responses to beach erosion, before discussion of beach renourishment. Some of the first documented renourishment projects were undertaken in the early 1900's on the east coast of the United States. Several countries have since renourished beaches, particularly during the past few decades. Most projects have been in the United States, the United Kingdom, some European countries and Australia. These are reviewed and experience from various beach renourishment projects used for discussion of the following topics: 1. The need for preliminary investigations 2. Sources of sediment for beach renourishment 3. Methods of beach renourishment 4. Design considerations 5. Monitoring changes after beach renourishment 6. Assessment of performance 7. Modelling of beach renourishment 8. Beach renourishment for coast protection 9. Environmental impacts 10. Costs and benefits 11. Response of renourished beaches to a rising sea level

In 2005 the CoastGIS symposium and exhibition was once again held in Aberdeen, Scotland, in the UK, the second time that we have had the privilege host this international event in the city of Aberdeen. This was the 6th International S- posium Computer Mapping and GIS for Coastal Zone Management, a collabo- tion between the International Cartographic Association's (ICA) Commission on Marine Cartography, and the International Geographical Union's (IGU) Comm- sion on Coastal Systems. The theme for 2005 was: De ning and Building a Marine and Coastal Spatial Data Infrastructure. As a major coastal event, the CoastGIS series of conferences always attracts an international audience of coastal researchers, managers, and pr- titioners who use one or more of the geospatial technologies (e. g. GIS, GPS, digital mapping, remote sensing, databases, and the Internet) in their work. The CoastGIS series is fundamentally an international event which over the years has gained a strong following attracting delegates from around the globe. Hosted by the University of Aberdeen - at the Aberdeen Exhibition and Conference Centre (AECC) - once again CoastGIS 2005 provided an opportunity to communicate the results of a wide range of innovative scienti c research into coastal and marine applications of the geospatial technologies, including remote sensing, Geograp- cal Information Systems (GIS), Global Positioning Systems (GPS), databases, data models, the Internet and online mapping systems.

A major task for physical oceanographers is to determine the movement of oceanic water from observations. This book introduces the P-vector inverse method, with a two-step determination of the velocity from hydrographic data. The book provide insights into the basics of the P-vector inverse method and the features of the inverted global and regional ocean circulations. Upper undergraduate and graduate students as well as oceanographers, marine biologists and other environmental scientists will find this book a valuable tool for their studies.

This book compiles for the first time the development of echinoderm research in Latin America. The book contains 17 chapters, one introductory, 15 country chapters, and a final biogeographic analysis. It compiles all the investigations published in international and local journals, reports, theses and other gray literature. Each chapter is composed of 7 sections: introduction describes the marine environments, and main oceanographic characteristics, followed by a history of research account divided by specific subjects. The next section addresses patterns of distribution and diversity. A specific section would explain fishery or aquaculture activities. The next sections deal with environmental and anthropogenic threats that are affecting echinoderm, and any conservation or management action. Finally, a section with conclusions, needs and new lines of research. The book will include two appendixes with species lists of all echinoderms with bathimetric data, habitat and distribution.

Dead-Reckoning aided with Doppler velocity measurement has been the most common method for underwater navigation for small vehicles. Unfortunately DR requires frequent position recalibrations and underwater vehicle navigation systems are limited to periodic position update when they surface. Finally standard Global Positioning System (GPS) receivers are unable to provide the rate or precision required when used on a small vessel. To overcome this, a low cost high rate motion measurement system for an Unmanned Surface Vehicle (USV) with underwater and oceanographic purposes is proposed. The proposed onboard system for the USV consists of an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) with accelerometers and rate gyros, a GPS receiver, a flux-gate compass, a roll and tilt sensor and an ADCP. Interfacing all the sensors proved rather challenging because of their different characteristics. The proposed data fusion technique integrates the sensors and develops an embeddable software package, using real time data fusion methods, for a USV to aid in navigation and control as well as controlling an onboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP). While ADCPs non-intrusively measure water flow, the vessel motion needs to be removed to analyze the data and the system developed provides the motion measurements and processing to accomplish this task.

To all those sailors / Who dreamed before us / Of another way to sail the oceans. The dedication of this Volume is meant to recall, and honour, the bold pioneers of ocean exploration, ancient as well as modern. As a marine scientist, dealing with the oceans through the complex tools, ?lters and mechanisms of contemporary research, I have always wondered what it was like, in centuries past, to look at that vast ho- zon with the naked eye, not knowing what was ahead, and yet to sail on. I have tried to imagine what ancient sailors felt, when "the unknown swirls around and engulfs the mind", as a forgotten author simply described the brave, perhaps reckless, act of facing such a hostile, menacing and yet fascinating adventure. Innovation has always been the key element, I think, for their success: another way, a better way, a more effective, safer and worthier way was the proper answer to the challenge. The map of our world has been changed time and again, from the geographical as well as the social, economic and scienti?c points of view, by the new discoveries of those sailors. One of the positive qualities of human beings is without doubt the inborn desire to expand their horizons, to see what lies beyond, to learn and understand.

Oceanic Migration studies the prehistoric peopling of the Pacific. It uses science and mathematics to expand the research base of Pacific prehistory and casts new light on this final human expansion. It explores the fundamental roles of oceanography and of global climate change in determining the paths, sequence, timing and range of Spice Island-based maritime migrations ranging across a quarter of the globe. The book is of interest to Pacific prehistorians, oceanographers and American anthropologists concerned with the diffusionist debate. For oceanographers it presents the new idea of the role of the West Pacific Warm Pool and of three of its four major currents in determining the evolution of voyaging in two oceans. For diffusionists it provides new chronological and technological contexts in which the issue of diffusionism needs to be reconsidered. For prehistorians it creates a paradigmatic shift by establishing a new time depth and mechanism for Polynesian exploration, offers a new view of voyaging and exploration strategies and of economic imperatives and adds a new dimension to the debate on Polynesian origins.

Sidescan sonar is proving to be the preeminent technique for researchers and professionals seeking knowledge about the structure and behavior of the seafloor, but its data is often difficult to interpret due to the physics of acoustic remote sensing, and to the varied geological processes at play. This book covers the fundamentals of sidescan sonar, incorporates new understanding of marine structures, and explains how to interpret sidescan sonar imagery and bathymetry.

Unique combination and integrated assessment of three major fields in physical oceanography Providing both in depth scientific views and a historical overview Very prominent and reknown authors brought together