Marine environmental conditions such as storms, storm surges and wave heights are directly experienced by, for example, off-shore operations or coastal populations. The authors review and bring together the state-of-the-art and present day knowledge about historical changes, recent trends and concepts on how marine environmental conditions may change in the future as well as discuss models and data problems.

Lorsqu'il n'est pas en notre pouvoir de discerner les plus vraies opinions, nous devons suivre les plus pro babies. -Rene Descartes When, in the early 1960's I undertook to covered, due to limitations imposed by a single study Arctic Ocean deep-sea cores, I did not volume. anticipate that 10 years later the climatic history Although not comprehensive, it is hoped that of the north polar basin would be still a matter of this book will provide an insight into the current debate. Although much new data have accumu- status of Arctic research and will also serve as a lated in various fields of Arctic geology and reference for investigators studying the Arctic and oceanography during the past decade, many ques- subarctic seas. tions remain to be answered. The paleo-oceanog- It is with pleasure that I acknowledge the raphy and the past atmospheric circulatory pat- following people for helping in various ways terns are still open to controversy, as are the during the preparation of this book: Philip E. structure and evolution of the crust beneath this Rosenberg, David M. Hopkins, C. Hans Nelson, ocean; furthermore, the origin and mode of dis- Horace G. Richards, Richard C. Allison, Peter persal of sediments is still not fully understood. Barnes, Edwin C. Buffington, Joe S. Creager, The current status of many of these problems is D. A. McManus, Joseph H. Kravitz, G. Vilks, discussed in the present volume. Thomas D. Hamilton, Ronald J. Echols, G. D.

The Conference on the Benthic Boundary Layer was held under the auspices of the NATO Science Committee as part of its continuing effort to promote the useful progress of science through international cooperation. Science Committee Conferences are deliberately designed to focus attention on unsolved problems, with carefully selected participants invited to provide complementary expertise from a variety of relevant disciplines. Through inten sive discussion in small groups they seek to reach a consensus on assessments and recommendations for future research emphasis, which it is hoped will be of value to the larger scientific community. The subjects treated over the past few years have been as varied as science itself-e.g., computer software engineering, chemical catalysis, and materials and energy research. The present effort evolved from informal discussions between marine geolo gists, chemists, and biologists which underlined the desirability of improved communication among those concerned with the benthic layer. In both scien tific and technological terms this is an exciting frontier, rich in promise but poorly understood at present. It is particularly striking to realize that there are at least as many definitions of the benthic layer as there are disciplines involved, and it seemed clear that there was much to be gained by a detailed exchange of views on research capabilities, trends, and priorities. The results of the meeting appear to have confirmed the hopes of the sponsors."

This book which is the outcome of a NATO-Advanced Study Institute on Mod elling the Ocean Circulation and Geochemical Tracer Transport is concerned with using models to infer the ocean circulation. Understanding our climate is one of the major problems of the late twentieth century. The possible climatic changes resulting from the rise in atmospheric carbon dioxide and other trace gases are of primary interest and the ocean pla. ys a ma. jor role in determining the magnitude, temporal evolution and regional distribution of those changes. Because of the poor observational basis the ocean general circulation is not well understood. The World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) which is now underway is an attempt to improve our knowledge of ocean dynamics and thermodynamics on global scales relevant to climate change. Despite those efforts, the oceanic data base is likely to remain scarce and it is crucial to use appropriate methods in order to extract the maximum amount of information from observations. The book contains a thorough analysis of methods to combine data of val'ious types with dynamical concepts, and to assimilate data directly into ocean models. The properties of geocl;temical tracers such as HC, He, Tritium and Freons and how they may be used to impose integral constraints on the ocean circulation are discussed."

c. P. Wroth, Oxford University, UK I am grateful to the Organising Committee that were covered on the first day. First, we for the invitation to attempt to sum up the had Dr Riemersma talking about positioning proceedings. Summing up is not really the requirements, and it seemed to me to be an appropriate phrase - it is a difficult job to unhappy reflection on human frailty that he do justice in a summary to the amount of was concentrating so much on the errors in material that has been presented over the the system and on the human factors that two days of the conference. Clearly, each led to trouble, emphasizing that the techni paper merits further individual attention in ques are vastly superior to the ability of the order to reflect on its content. What I am human beings who used them. Then, Dr going to say must necessarily be an unbal Palmer talked about a fascinating case his anced critique, because we are considering a tory of the Ocean Thermal Power Project; whole range of knowledge and experience in this was of particular interest because most a wide diversity of topics, and my comments of the other stories we heard were not so are bound to be biased by my own interests. specific and not about such a novel project."

In July 1972, the U.S. Office of Naval Research identified several areas that it interpreted as being of interest to the U.S. Navy. Four of these research areas were then selected for their special importance in understanding physical processes on the ocean floor. In some of these, a great wealth of data has accumulated over the past two or three decades, but controversy exists in the interpretation of the results. In others, new techniques have re cently been devised that could lead to the collection and synthesis of new information. There was yet a third area in which little study had been undertaken and the results available appeared of great potential importance. The latter subject constitutes the title of this volume. To assess the information available and to facilitate plans for further research in the fields of interest that had been identified, the U.S. Office of Naval Research sponsored four symposia. The first was held in November 1972 at the University of California Con ference Center, Lake Arrowhead. The title of the symposium was "Natural Gases in Marine Sediments and Their Mode of Distribution." Twenty lectures were presented over a three-day period. All but two participants at this symposium subsequently submitted papers, which are published in this volume. In addition, Dr. K.O. Emery, who did not attend the symposium, supplied a manuscript on a topic most re levant to the subject matter discussed."

This literature study presents an overview of underwater acoustic networking. It provides a background and describes the state of the art of all networking facets that are relevant for underwater applications. This report serves both as an introduction to the subject and as a summary of existing protocols, providing support and inspiration for the development of network architectures.

As part of its continuing program to stimulate superior basic research in the marine environment, the Office of Naval Research, Ocean Science and Technology Division, sponsored a series of closed seminar-workshops in 1972-1973. Each seminar focused upon one re search area of marine geology which is relatively new and in need of a critical evaluation and accelerated support. The subjects areas chosen for the seminars were: 1. natural gases in marine sediments and their mode of distribution, 2. nephelometry and the optical properties of ocean waters, 3. physical and engineering properties of deep-sea sediments, and 4. physics of sound in marine sediments. The objectives of each seminar-workshop were to bring into sharper focus the state-of-the-science within each subject area, to effect some degree of coordination among the investigators working within each of these areas and to provide the Ocean Science and Technology Division guidance for national program support. This volume.contains most of the papers presented at the semi nar on the physical and engineering properties of deep-sea sediments. The seminar was held at Airlie House, Airlie, Virginia on April 24- 27, 1973 and was organized and chaired by A. Inderbitzen. The at tendees were invited from among the leading investigators in this field from both the engineering and scientific disciplines. Each attendee was requested to prepare a paper within his area of spe ciality."

This seminal book results from a NATO Advanced Research Workshop at the University of Cambridge with Russian co-directorship, enabling the first formal dialogue between NATO and Russia about security issues in the Arctic Ocean. Involving interdisciplinary participation with experts from 17 nations, including all of the Arctic states, this workshop itself reflects progress in Arctic cooperation and collaboration. Interests now are awakening globally to take advantage of extensive energy, shipping, fishing and tourism opportunities in the Arctic Ocean as it is being transformed from a permanent sea-ice cap to a seasonally ice-free sea. This environmental state-change is introducing inherent risks of political, economic and cultural instabilities that are centralized among the Arctic states and indigenous peoples with repercussions globally. Responding with urgency, environmental security is presented as an "integrated approach for assessing and responding to the risks as well as the opportunities generated by an environmental state-change." In this book - diverse perspectives on environmental security in the Arctic Ocean are shared in chapters from high-level diplomats, parliamentarians and government officials of Arctic and non-Arctic states; leaders of Arctic indigenous peoples organizations; international law advisors from Arctic states as well as the United Nations; directors of inter-governmental organizations and non-governmental organizations; managers of multi-national corporations; political scientists, historians and economists; along with Earth system scientists and oceanographers. Building on the "common arctic issues" of "sustainable development and environmental protection" established by the Arctic Council - environmental security offers an holistic approach to assess opportunities and risks as well as develop infrastructure responses with law of the sea as the key "international legal framework" to "promote the peaceful uses" of the Arctic Ocean. With vision for future generations, environmental security is a path to balance national interests and common interests in the Arctic Ocean for the lasting benefit of all.

Satelli te oceanography, as the term is used in this book, is a generic term that means application of the technology of aerospace electromagnetic remote sensing to the study of the oceans. The key words here are "application of technology **. to the study of the oceans." The goal is to learn more about our planet's hydrosphere. As such, remote sensing technology is another tool in the oceanographer's sea bag, just like a bathythermograph or a plankton net. But is a whole book necessary if remote sensing is just another tool? While it is true that no one has written a whole book on plankton nets, volumes have been written about what is found in those nets. Today's state-of-the-art measurements from spacecraft or aircraft first must be interpreted in terms of their physics; then the interpretations must be understood in terms of oceanic processes. This is not materially different from the analogy to Ii plankton net; marine biolo gists still argue about what didn't get caught in the net.

Shear waves and closely related interface waves (Rayleigh, Stoneley and Scholte) play an important role in many areas of engineering, geophysics and underwater acoustics. In some cases interest is focused on large-amplitude waves of low frequency such as those associ ated with earthquakes and nuclear explosions; in other cases low amplitude waves, which have often travelled great distances through the sediment, are of interest. Both low and high frequency shear and interface waves are often used for seafloor probing and sediment characterization. As a result of the wide spectrum of different interests, different disciplines have developed lines of research and a literature particularly suited to their own problems. For example water-column acousticians view the seafloor sediment as the lower boundary of their domain and are interested in shear and interface waves in the near bottom sediments mainly from the standpoint of how they influence absorption and reflection at this boundary. On the other hand, geophysicists seeking deep oil deposits are interested in the maximum penetration into the sediments and the tell-tale characteristics of the seismic waves that have encountered potential oil or gas bearing strata. In another area, geotechnical engineers use shear and interface waves to study soil properties necessary for the design and the siting of seafloor structures.

El Nino is a meteorological and oceanographic phenomenon, which occurs at irregular intervals in the eastern tropical Pacific. Its most obvious characteristic is the warming of surface waters, which causes enormous disturbances of the marine environment. A severe Nino may also affect continental systems worldwide. This book gathers in a comprehensive way the information available on the effects of the exceptionally strong 1982-83 Nino on a group of marine mammals, the pinnipeds. It presents an analysis of the effects of environmental stress on the populations of top predators. Data and interpretations are based on a most unusual collection of long-term studies of pinniped population dynamics, behavior and ecology which spanned the El Nino event. The responses of pinniped populations to the El Nino disturbance of the marine ecosystem also has important implications for the management and conservation of marine mammal populations.

PREFACE xv LIST OF LECTURERS xix LIST OF PARTICIPANTS xx]. VOLUME I PART I - DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF PHYSICALLY-BASED MODELS OF THE ATMOSPHERE Section 1 - Introduction GATES, W. L. - Climate and the Climate System 3 SIMMONS, A. J. and L. BENGTSSON - Atmospheric General Circulation Models: Their Design and Use for Climate Studies 23 Section 2 - Numerical Methods for Large-Scale Dynamics ARAKAWA, A. - Finite-Difference Methods in Climate Modeling 79 BOURKE, W. - Spectral Methods in Global Climate and Weather Prediction Models 169 Section 3 - Parameterization of Subgrid-Scale Physical Processes FOUQUART, Y. - Radiative Transfer in Climate Models 223 LAVAL, K. - Land Surface Processes 285 SELLERS, P. J. , Y. MINTZ, Y. C. SUD and A. DALCHER - A Brief Description of the Simple Biosphere Model (SiB) 307 SOMMERIA, G. - Parameterization of the Planetary Boundary Layer in Large-Scale Atmospheric Models 331 x TABLE OF CONTENTS TIEDTKE, M. - Parameterization of Cumulus Convection in Large-Scale Models 375 SUNDQVIST, H. - Parameterization of Condensation and Associated Clouds in Models for Weather Prediction and General Circulation Simulation 433 PART II - DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF PHYSICALLY-BASED MODELS OF THE OCEAN AND SEA ICE HAN, Y. -J. - Modelling and Simulation of the General Circulation of the Ocean 465 HIBLER, W. D. - Modelling Sea Ice Thermodynamics and Dynamics in Climate Studies 509 PART III - METHODS OF COUPLING ATMOSPHERE, OCEAN AND ICE MODELS BRYAN, K.

The oceans cover about 72 percent of our planet (which is named for the remaining 28 percent). These oceans have fascinated and challenged the human race for centuries. In the past, the ocean had been used first as a source of food and later as a means of transportation. However, the oceans have recently become very important-they may offer a solution to many of our modern problems. For example, refuse from land is to be dumped into the ocean never to be seen again; fish and other biological resources are to be caught and used to meet the protein deficiency of the world; oil and gas from the continental shelf and perhaps deeper areas will eventually solve our energy problems. None ofthese examples is completely possible, and the at source offood and later as a means of transportation. However, the oceans social, and ecological problems in the marine environment. Countries are al ready planning how the oceans can be divided up, so that they will get their "fair share." Economists, politicians, and others are producing almost daily, optimistic or pessimistic views (depending upon your own viewpoint) about the ocean and its resources. Equally loud reports come from environ mentalists, conservationists, government sources, and oil companies con cerning the pollution and potential destruction of the ocean."

One of the most crucial but still very poorly understood topics of oceanographic science is the role of ocean processes in contributing to the dynamics of climate and global change. This book presents a series of high level lectures on the major categories of ocean/atmosphere processes. Three of these major issues are the focus of the lectures: (1) air--sea interaction processes; (2) water mass formation, dispersion and mixing; (3) general circulation, with specific emphasis on the thermohaline component. Global examples in the world ocean are provided and discussed in the lectures. In parallel, the Mediterranean Sea is a laboratory basin in providing analogues of the above global processes relevant to climate dynamics. They include the Mediterranean thermohaline circulation with its own `conveyor belt'; intermediate and deep water mass formation and transformations, dispersion and mixing. No other book in the field provides a review of fundamental lectures on these processes, coupled with global examples and their Mediterranean analogues.

Discussing all aspects of offshore surveying in a single volume, this book provides all algorithms necessary to develop complete software suites, and gives a large number of quality control criteria. It is invaluable to professional surveyors, offshore engineers and geophysicists, providing them with a wealth of data in a single volume. It is also a valuable reference work for hydrographic surveyors, seismic navigators and operations geophysicists. This book brings together information on spheroids, datums, projections and binning; gives a complete listing of UKOOA P1/90 and P2/91 formats for data transfer; a field guide to the calibration of radio navigation systems and compasses, acoustic and laser measuring devices; GPS, including calibration, use and differential techniques; field manual for quality control of all aspects of offshore surveying; listing of typical specifications for inclusion in survey contracts; and a comprehensive glossary of relevant terms for offshore surveying.

Scientists who have had the opportunity of being associated with Professor Egon T. Degens, to whom this Festschrift is devoted, have been influenced by his ideas on subjects as varied as: extraterrestrial organic matter, origin of life, evolution of organisms, isotope biogeochemistry down to more imminent ones such as the carbon cycle and its implications on climate. This variety is also reflected in the papers in the present volume contributed by colleagues who have known Egon or have worked with him. Egon Theodor Degens was born on April 16, 1928 at Inden, Germany and had his education in Bonn and Wiirzburg. After a stint at the Pennsylvania State University he returned to Wiirzburg to help set up one of the first organic geochemistry laboratories in the world. This laboratory was the breeding ground for some of the eminent organic geochemists at work today. Later, he joined the California Institute of Technology and began his work on stable carbon isotopes, and later on biogeochemical compounds in natural waters. From California he moved on to the east coast, which led to yet another productive phase at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. He was instrumental in the pioneering work carried out by the Woods Hole scientists in the Black Sea which is the largest anoxic basin in the world, and in the Red Sea where the first hydrothermal ore deposits on the seafloor were discovered.

Individual cell and particle analysis in aquatic sciences is involved in many aspects of oceanography and limnology, including optical physics of particles, phytoplankton physiology and ecology, marine and aquatic microbiology and food web interactions. This book concentrates on the optimal utilization of flow cytometry and image analysis and the ways in which oceanographic and limnological problems can be uniquely or better addressed using these techniques.

Some 115 thousand years ago the world as we know it today shifted into a much colder glacial mode which culminated with huge ice sheets reaching as far south as New York, Berlin and St. Petersburg. The numerical climate models, used to predict the next century climate, were as yet unable to explain what happened. The reader of the book gains a detailed picture of what is known on the most important episodes of the past climate history, what to expect during the transition into a glacial climate mode, and which aspects and elements of the climate system seem mostsusceptible to change. The climate modelers will realize that the long term history of natural climate variations may hold important clues to the mechanism of climate changes which should be taken in account if the near future CO2 rich climate have to be predicted with any degree ofreliability.

This book is devoted to the quantitative physical modeling of subduction and subduction-related processes. It presents a coherent description of the modeling method (including similarity criteria, and a novel applied experimental technique), results from model experiments, theoretical analysis of results on the basis of continuum mechanics, and their geodynamic interpretation. Subduction is modeled in general as well as applied to particular regions using both 2-D and 3-D approaches, with both slab-push and slab-pull driving forces. The modeling covers all stages from subduction initiation to death', different regimes of subduction producing back arc extension and compression, blocking of subduction and jumps of subduction zone, arc-continent collision and continental subduction. This work is for geologists and geophysicists interested in geodynamics of the convergent plate boundaries and in mechanics of the lithosphere.

Major structural features are used in this study to reconstruct the links which existed between North America, Europe and Africa before the opening of the North Atlantic Ocean. The synthesis of geophysical and geochemical data as well as geological observations allows the recognition of the original geometry of the Grenvillian, Cadomian, Caledonian, Ligerian-Acadian and Hercynian foldbelts and the identification of ancient plate sutures. The reader will find a wealth of information based not only on the English but also on the French and Spanish literature, thus opening less known results to the international community.

A comprehensive progress report on the multi-disciplinary field of ocean and climate change research is given. It compiles introductory background papers and leading scientific results on the ocean-atmosphere carbon cycle with emphasis on the ocean's carbon inventory and the various components involved. The relationship between plankton productivity, carbon fixation, oceanic PCO2 and climate change is investigated from the viewpoint of long-term climatic change during the late Quaternary cycles of ice ages and warm ages. The various approaches range from micropaleontology over organic and trace element geochemistry to molecular isotope geochemistry.

The original idea of this book started when we were making a residual fluxes study of the Paranagua Coastal Lagoon (Brazil) near the colonial town of Guaraque~aba.Among the beautiful mangroves of this Brazilian National Park, between profile and profile, we wondered why South American estuaries were little known in the international arena. Besides, most of the papers published in the literature are based on biological research. Practically nothing is known about their geomorphology and dynamics. That night, while we were walking along the hilly streets of the town, we decided that the only way to have an idea about the degree of advance in the geomorphology and dynamics of our estuaries was to ask the proper South American researchers to write review articles about the estuaries in which they were working or about the gen eral state of the art of the Geomorphology and Physical Oceanography of the estuar ies of his/her country. The book grew from then on. Although initially many scien tists offer to write a chapter, we ran into the same problem these researchers have to publish in journals, they felt that their English was not good enough and withdrew. However, we are very satisfy about the number and quality of the contributions which also passed a very strong review process.

Key biogeochemical events in the ocean take place in less than a second, are studied in experiments lasting a few hours, and determine cycles that last over seasons or even years. Models of the controlling processes thus have to take into account these time scales. This book aims at achieving consensus among these controlling processes at all relevant time scales. It helps understand the global carbon cycle including the production and breakdown of solved organic matter and the production, sinking and breakdown of particles. The emphasis on considering all time scales in submodel formulation is new and of interest to all those working in global ocean models and related fields.

Ten years ago, de Loor and co-workers at TNO, The Netherlands, were the first to report bottom topography patterns in real aperture radar (RAR) images of the southern North Sea. At that time, this was a real puzzle. The skin depth of microwaves for sea water is only of the order of centimeters while the sea bottom is about 20 meters below the surface. Electromagnetic radiation therefore cannot probe the bottom directly. Similar phenomena were found in radar imagery from SEASAT and SIR-AlB synthetic aperture radars (SAR's) of Nantucket Shoals, the English Channel and many other coastal areas. Since then theory and ocean field experiments (Le., Phelps Bank, Georgia Straits, SARSEX, TOWARD, FASINEX, etc.) have advanced our understanding considerably. We now know that these surface signatures are the results of surface currents, perturbed by the bottom topography, which refract the propagation and modulate the energy of (short) surface waves so as to cause microwave backscatter power variations. Hence, any large scale ocean features containing nonuniform surface currents (i.e. internal waves, eddies, fronts, etc.) will cause similar manifestations in the radar imagery by means of current-wave-microwave interactions. Observations confirm this.