Written for anyone interested in coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the resulting features seen in coastal systems across the world. Accessible to students from a range of disciplines, the quantitative approach of this book helps to build a solid understanding of wave and current processes that shape coastlines. From sandy beaches to coral reefs, the major coastal features are related to contemporary processes and to sea-level changes over the past 25,000 years. Key equations describing these processes and standard methods and instrumentation used to collect measurements are all presented in this wide-ranging overview. Designed to support a one- or two-semester course and grounded in current research, this second edition has been substantially updated and rewritten - featuring cutting-edge new topics, insights from new models and technologies, additional global examples and an enhanced package of online teaching materials.

The last one or two decades have witnessed an increased interest in to pographic Rossby waves, both from a theoretical computational as well as an observational point of view. However, even though long periodic pro cesses were observed in lakes and ocean basins with considerable detail, it appears that interpretation in terms of physical models is not suffi ciently conclusive. The reasons for this lack in understanding may be sought both, in the insufficient spatial resolution or the brevity of the time series of the available data and the inadequacy of the theoretical understanding of long periodic oscillating processes in lakes and ocean bays. Advancement will emerge from intensified studies of both aspects, but it is equally our believe that the understanding of long per'iodic oscillations in lakes is presently likely to profit most from a theore tical-computational study of topographic Rossby waves in enclosed basins. With this tractate we aim to provide the reader with the basic concepts of wave motion in shallow waters at subinertial frequencies. Our ques tions throughout this monogra h are essentially: How can the solutions to this topographic wave equation in a prescribed idealized domain be construced; what are the physical properties of these solutions; are their features identifiable by observations; how reliable are such in terpretations, etc."

The seventy-fifth anniversary edition of the classic book about Cape Cod, "written with simplicity, sympathy, and beauty" ("New York Herald Tribune")
A chronicle of a solitary year spent on a Cape Cod beach, " The Outermost House" has long been recognized as a classic of American nature writing. Henry Beston had originally planned to spend just two weeks in his seaside home, but was so possessed by the mysterious beauty of his surroundings that he found he "could not go."
Instead, he sat down to try and capture in words the wonders of the magical landscape he found himself in thrall to: the migrations of seabirds, the rhythms of the tide, the windblown dunes, and the scatter of stars in the changing summer sky. Beston argued that, "The world today is sick to its thin blood for the lack of elemental things, for fire before the hands, for water, for air, for the dear earth itself underfoot." Seventy-five years after they were first published, Beston's words are more true than ever.

Published on behalf of The Commission of the European Communities Directorate-General Information, Market and Innovation

The present lecture notes cover a first course in th most common types of stratified flows encountered in Environ mental Hydraulics. Most of the flows are buoyancy flows, i.e. currents in which gravity acts on small density differences. Part I presents the basic concepts of stagnant, densit- stratified water, and of flowing non-miscible stratified fluids. The similarity to the (presumed) well-known open channel flow, subject to a reduced gravity, is illustrated. Part II treats the miscible density stratified flows. In outlining the governing equations, the strong coupling between the turbulence (the mixing) and the mean flow is emphasized. The presentation and discussions of the basic governing equa tions are followed by illustrative examples. Separate chapters are devoted to Dense Bottom Currents, Free Penetrative Convec tion, Wind-driven Stratified Flow, Horizontal Buoyancy Flow and Vertical jet/plumes. Part III presents some examples of practical problems solved on the basis of knowledge given in the present lecture notes. It is the author's experience that the topics treated in chapter 8 and in the subsequent chapters are especially well suited for self-tuition, followed by a study-circle. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The author has benefited by the valuable help of his col legues at the Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engin eering, the Technical University of Denmark, especially our librarian Mrs. Kirsten Djcentsrup, our secretary Mrs. Marianne Lewis and our technical draftsman Mrs. Liselotte Norup."

During the past several years, research into the frontal divisions of the ocean has been particularly intensive. The significance of this lies not only in the fact that, in the five years from 1976 to 1980, more than 500 papers on this question were published in various journals throughout the world and at least three major international discussions were held (see p. 17). The newness of the discussion of the topic stems from the qualitative reinterpretation of the physical essence of the phenomenon and its role in the ocean, particularly in the processes of mixing and structure formation. While in the past the conventional view of fronts as boundaries between large scale water masses of the ocean only led to the recognition of convenient classi fication limits created by nature itself, there is now a tendency to study oceanic fronts as integral elements of the dynamics of oceanic waters. As we understand it, fronts are being associated more and more with the dynamic and kinematic features which arise when kinetic energy and enstrophy are transmitted through a cascade of scales characterizing various forms of motion of a stratified medium in laterally confined oceanic basins. We are beginning to get a better understanding of the role synoptic-scale oceanic eddies play in the process of frontogenesis in the ocean."

The background for the Workshop on Cohesive Sediment Dynamics - . !!!!!. Special Reference to Physical Processes in Estuaries is briefly outlined in Chapter I. Here I wish to acknowledge those whose support I consider to be pivotal to this under taking. My deepest appreciation goes to Cynthia Vey, whose organizational skills and dedicated effort made the completion of this volume possible. Thanks are also due to Gail Terry for workshop organization, Jean Branson for word processing and Lillean Pieter for helping with drawings. Finally, I must express my sincere appreciation to Arthur Ezra 9f the National Science Foundation for providing support (through Grant No. CEE-8401185) for the workshop, and to Hsiang Wang for depart mental encouragement. With deepest regret, I must note the untimely death of Ranjan Ariathurai, 39, on June 5, 1985, before this volume could be published. He was a guiding force to many within the small group of researchers in cohesive sediment dynamics, and his professional brilliance and inspirational personal qualities constituted the true spirit . behind the workshop. I trust this volume will serve, albeit in a small way, as a fitting memory to this spirit, and to the remarkable professional contributions Ranjan made during his short career. Professor Ray B. Krone Professor Emmanuel Partheniades Department of Civil Engineering Department of Engineering Sciences University of California University of Florida Davis, California Gainesville, Florida TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. INTRODUCTION Ashish J. Mehta **************************************************** 1 II.

Ramon Navarro, a third-generation subsistence fisherman and farmer who lives on the coast of Chile at Punta Lobos, learned to surf on a busted surfboard left by a visiting surfer. Since then he has become one of the top-ten big wave riders. He has used his surfing accomplishments to protect his home break, and he is admired around the world as an environmental activist: he fights resort development on the point, the building of pulp mills along on the coast, and sewage pipes that pollute the ocean off Pichilemu. Editor Chris Malloy created the film and book The Fisherman's Son, which focuses on Ramon's rise to big wave fame and how Ramon is using that notoriety to make his voice heard on activism issues. Contributors to the book include Gerry Lopez, Josh Berry, and Jack Johnson. Part of the proceeds to the book and film will be used to support Ramon's environmental efforts.

Buoyancy is one of the main forces driving flows on our planet, especially in the oceans and atmosphere. These flows range from buoyant coastal currents to dense overflows in the ocean, and from avalanches to volcanic pyroclastic flows on the Earth's surface. This book brings together contributions by leading world scientists to summarize our present theoretical, observational, experimental and modeling understanding of buoyancy-driven flows. Buoyancy-driven currents play a key role in the global ocean circulation and in climate variability through their impact on deep-water formation. Buoyancy-driven currents are also primarily responsible for the redistribution of fresh water throughout the world's oceans. This book is an invaluable resource for advanced students and researchers in oceanography, geophysical fluid dynamics, atmospheric science and the wider Earth sciences who need a state-of-the-art reference on buoyancy-driven flows.

Development and publication of this monograph are the result of the joint efforts of Boston Edison Company and the Pilgrim Administrative Technical Committee (PATC). The PATC is an advisory committee established in 1969 to ensure that Pilgrim Station marine studies have the benefit of Qualified scientific and technical advice and are responsive to regulatory agency concerns. The PATC is composed of representatives from the following: Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries Massachusetts Division of Water Pollution Control National Marine Fisheries Service (NOAA) U. S. Environmental Protection Agency U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service (Dept. of the Interior) University of Massachusetts Boston Edison Company The PATC formed the Pi 1 grim Stati on Marine Ecology Monograph Subcommi ttee to guide Monograph funding efforts, oversee technical aspects of preparation, consi der editor sel ecti on, advi se the edi tors and authors, and resol ve possi bl e conflicts. Members of the Subcommittee were as follows: W. Leigh Bridges - Mass. Div. Marine Fisheries (Subcommittee Chairman) Robert Lawton - Mass. Div. of Marine Fisheries Joseph Pelczarski - Mass. Office Coastal Zone Management Michael Ross - University of Massachusetts Robert Leger - U. S. Environmental Protection Agency Thomas Horst - Stone & Webster Engineering Corporation Richard Toner - Marine Research, Inc. Robert Anderson - Boston Edison Company Lewis Scotton - Boston Edison Company This publication was made possible by grants from: Massachusetts Office of Coastal Zone Management Boston Edison Company Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries U. S.

Since the pioneering work of Clarke et a1. (1970) it has been known that chlorophyll a (or. more generally. pigments) contained in phytoplankton in near-surface waters produced systematic variations in the color of the ocean which could be observed from aircraft. As a direct result of this work. NASA developed the Coastal Zone Color Scanner (CZCS). which was launched on Nimbus-G (now Nimbus-7) in October 1978. (A short description of the CZCS is provided in Appendix I. ) Shortly before launch. at the IUCRM Colloquium on Passive Radiometry of the Ocean (June 1978). a working group on water color measurements was formed to assess water color remote sensing at that time. A report (Morel and Gordon. 1980) was prepared which summarized the state-of-the-art of the algorithms for atmospheric correction. and phytoplankton pigment and seston retrieval. and which included recommendations concerning the design of next generation sensors. The water color session of the COSPAR/SCOR/IUCRM Symposium 'Oceanography from Space' held in Venice (May 1980. i. e ** in the post-launch period) provided the opportunity for a reassessment of the state-of-the-art after having gained some experience in the analysis of the initial CZCS imagery. Such an assessment is the purpose of this review paper. which will begin with an outline of the basic physics of water color remote sensing and the fundamentals of atmospheric corrections. The present state of the constituent retrieval and atmospheric correction algorithms will then be critically assessed.

In 1972, James Lovelock and Lynn Margulis began collaborating on the Gaia hypothesis. They suggested that over geological time, life on Earth has had a major role in both producing and regulating its own environment. Gaia is now an ecological and environmental worldview underpinning vital scientific and cultural debates over environmental issues. Their ideas have transformed the Earth and life sciences, as well as contemporary conceptions of nature. Their correspondence describes these crucial developments from the inside, showing how their partnership proved decisive for the development of the Gaia hypothesis. Clarke and Dutreuil provide historical background and explain the concepts and references introduced throughout the Lovelock-Margulis correspondence, while highlighting the major landmarks of their collaboration within the sequence of almost 300 letters written between 1970 and 2007. This book will be of interest to researchers in ecology, history of science, environmental history and climate change, and cultural science studies.

The presence of concentrations of organic substances and cations in seawater is a matter of increasing concern to the water industry, environmentalists and the general public alike. It poses a threat of possible health hazards for humans, fish and crustacea. Until fairly recently, the analysis of seawater was limited to a number of major constituents such as chloride and alkalinity. Insufficient attention was given to the analysis of sediments. Analysis of Oceanic Waters and Sediments draws attention to the methods available for analysing sediments in seawater. It covers classical methods as well as the most advanced and recently introduced physical techniques. It also discusses the sensitivities and limitations of the methods. The book is comprised of two major components. The first is a review of the occurrence of organic compounds and cations as well as examples of pollution by these substances in the ocean. The second is concerned with determination of the concentrations of organic compounds and metals, including an in-depth examination of the most sensitive analytical methods that are available and necessary for detecting them due to their low concentrations in the ocean. A detailed exploration of the largely overlooked area of oceanic sediment analysis, this book is of high interest for all professionals in the water industry, from river management to fish industries, sewage effluent treatment and disposal, land drainage and water supply. Its scope also applies to agriculturalists, chemists, biologists, toxicologists, public health workers and public analysts.

The second edition of this concise, affordable textbook is ideal for curious undergraduate majors and non-majors taking a first course in meteorology. The first two chapters introduce readers to the main concepts and tools used to analyze weather patterns. Chapters 3-8 provide a foundational understanding of the fundamental processes taking place in the atmosphere, and in Chapters 9-12 these physical concepts are applied to specific weather phenomena. Weather concepts are then used in Chapters 13-15 to explain weather forecasting, air pollution, and the impact of climate change on weather. Key concepts are illustrated through a running case study of a single mid-latitude cyclone, providing students with an opportunity to progressively develop their understanding of weather phenomena with a familiar example approached from multiple perspectives. This edition includes expanded and updated coverage of precipitation types and formation, satellite and radar technology, tornadoes, and more. It also features thought-provoking end-of-chapter review questions, new visual analysis exercises, an expanded test bank and nearly 100 new figures.

Between extremes of climate farther north and south, the 38th North parallel line marks a temperate, middle latitude where human societies have thrived since the beginning of civilization. It divides North and South Korea, passes through Athens and San Francisco, and bisects Mono Lake in the eastern Sierra Nevada, where authors David and Janet Carle make their home. Former park rangers, the authors set out on an around-the-world journey in search of water-related environmental and cultural intersections along the 38th parallel. This book is a chronicle of their adventures as they meet people confronting challenges in water supply, pollution, wetlands loss, and habitat protection. At the heart of the narrative are the riveting stories of the passionate individuals--scientists, educators, and local activists--who are struggling to preserve some of the world's most amazing, yet threatened, landscapes.
Traveling largely outside of cities, away from well-beaten tourist tracks, the authors cross Japan, Korea, China, Turkmenistan, Turkey, Greece, Sicily, Spain, Portugal, the Azores Islands, and the United States--from Chesapeake Bay to San Francisco Bay. The stories they gather provide stark contrasts as well as reaffirming similarities across diverse cultures. Generously illustrated with maps and photos, "Traveling the 38th Parallel" documents devastating environmental losses but also inspiring gains made through the efforts of dedicated individuals working against the odds to protect these fragile places.

Oceanography and Marine Biology: An Annual Review remains one of the most cited sources in marine science and oceanography. The ever increasing interest in work in oceanography and marine biology and its relevance to global environmental issues, especially global climate change and its impacts, creates a demand for authoritative reviews summarizing the results of recent research. This volume covers topics that include resting cysts from coastal marine plankton, facilitation cascades in marine ecosystems, and the way that human activities are rapidly altering the sensory landscape and behaviour of marine animals. For more than 50 years, OMBAR has been an essential reference for research workers and students in all fields of marine science. From Volume 57 a new international Editorial Board ensures global relevance, with editors from the UK, Ireland, Canada, Australia and Singapore. The series volumes find a place in the libraries of not only marine laboratories and institutes, but also universities. Previous volume Impact Factors include: Volume 53, 4.545. Volume 54, 7.000. Volume 55, 5.071. Guidelines for contributors, including information on illustration requirements, can be downloaded on the Downloads/Updates tab on the volume's CRC Press webpage. Chapters 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 of this book are freely available as a downloadable Open Access PDF under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non Commercial-No Derivatives 4.0 license. The links can be found on the book's Routledge web page at https://www.routledge.com//9780367134150

The depths of the oceans are the last example of terra incognita on earth. Adamowsky presents a study of the sea, arguing that - contrary to popular belief - post-Enlightenment discourse on the sea was still subject to mystery and wonder, and not wholly rationalized by science.

'Like Sir David Attenborough, he has the rare ability to be an excellent communicator and has written an engaging book sprinkled with mind-blowing facts about the deep oceans' - Daily Express 'A new informed perspective on the wide, watery world we inhabit' - Coast magazine 'Book of the month' 'The gripping story of how ocean science has advanced in recent years is captivatingly told by Jon Copley in this introduction to the deep ocean' - China Dialogue 'Deftly conjures the wonders of a bathynaut's world' - Nature It is often said that we know more about space than we do our own oceans, but is that really the case? Or do we in fact know a great deal more about the oceans than many people realise. The wellbeing of our oceans and the life contained within and around them has never been more important. But to truly understand the vital role they play, we need to first understand how the oceans work, how we explore them and learn about the mysteries they hold, and what our effect is on them. Between these pages is everything you need to know about our oceans, explained in 25 questions. Combining untold history of ocean exploration and personal account of what it's like to be a 'bathynaut' diving in a mini-submarine, Ask an Ocean Explorer brings to light weird and wonderful deep-sea creatures and how the oceans and their future is connected to our everyday lives.

The heavily-revised Practical Handbook of Marine Science, Fourth Edition continues its tradition as a state-of-the-art reference that updates the field of marine science to meet the interdisciplinary research needs of physical oceanographers, marine biologists, marine chemists, and marine geologists. This edition adds an entirely new section devoted to Climate Change and Climate Change Effects. It also adds new sections on Estuaries, Beaches, Barrier Islands, Shellfish, Macroalgae, Food Chains, Food Webs, Trophic Dynamics, System Productivity, Physical-Chemical-Biological Alteration, and Coastal Resource Management. The Handbook assembles an extensive international collection of marine science data throughout, with approximately 1,000 tables and illustrations. It provides comprehensive coverage of anthropogenic impacts in estuarine and marine ecosystems from local, regional, and global perspectives. Maintaining its user-friendly, multi-sectional format, this comprehensive resource will also be of value to undergraduate and graduate students, research scientists, administrators, and other professionals who deal with the management of marine resources. Now published in full color, the new edition offers extensive illustrative and tabular reference material covering all the major disciplines related to the sea.

Climate research over recent decades has shown that the interaction between the ocean and atmosphere drives the global climate system. This engaging and accessible textbook focuses on climate dynamics from the perspective of the upper ocean, and specifically on the interaction between the atmosphere and ocean. It describes the fundamental physics and dynamics governing the behavior of the ocean, and how it interacts with the atmosphere, giving rise to natural climate variability and influencing climate change. Including end-of-chapter questions and turn-key access to online, research-quality data sets, the book allows readers the chance to apply their knowledge and work with real data. Comprehensive information is also provided on the data sets used to produce the numerous illustrations, allowing students to dive deeper into the data themselves. Providing an accessible treatment of physical oceanography, it is perfect for intermediate-advanced students wishing to gain an interdisciplinary introduction to climate science and oceanography.

As we discover more about the role of the ocean in global changes and identify the effects of global change on the ocean, understanding its chemical composition and processes becomes increasingly paramount. However, understanding these processes requires a wide range of measurements in the vast ocean, from the sea surface to deep-ocean trenches, from the tropics to the poles. Practical Guidelines for the Analysis of Seawater provides a common analytical basis for generating quality-assured and reliable data on chemical parameters in the ocean.

A source of practical know-how, the book covers sampling and storage, analytical methodology, and guidelines and procedures for quality assurance. It presents analytical methods with the step-by-step procedures that help practitioners implement these methods successfully into the laboratory, making them instantly applicable without consulting further literature. The book also contains essential information for developing or improving quality control and quality assurance programs in the laboratory. It includes the availability and measurement of standard reference materials, blank estimation and correction, control of recoveries, and statistical evaluation of quality assurance data.

Analytical chemistry is a very active and fast moving area. Despite the development of innovative new analytical techniques for chemical trace element research, obtaining reliable data at ultra-trace levels remains a formidable challenge. A complete and practical guide, this book delineates proven methods that consistently yield reproducible data in routine work.

Introduction to Ocean Circulation and Modeling provide basics for physical oceanography covering ocean properties, ocean circulations and their modeling. First part of the book explains concepts of oceanic circulation, geostrophy, Ekman, Sverdrup dynamics, Stommel and Munk problems, two-layer dynamics, stratification, thermal and salt diffusion, vorticity/instability, and so forth. Second part highlights basic implementation framework for ocean models, discussion of different models, and their unique differences from the common framework with basin-scale modeling, regional modeling, and interdisciplinary modeling at different space and time scales. Features: Covers ocean properties, ocean circulations and their modeling. Explains the centrality of a rotating earth and its implications for ocean and atmosphere in a simple manner. Provides basic facts of ocean dynamics. Illustrative diagrams for clear understanding of key concepts. Outlines interdisciplinary and complex models for societal applications. The book aims at Senior Undergraduate Students, Graduate Students and Researchers in Ocean Science and Engineering, Ocean Technology, Physical Oceanography, Ocean Circulation, Ocean Modeling, Dynamical Oceanography and Earth Science.