This book introduces the new discipline of urban oceanography, providing a deeper understanding of the physics of the coastal ocean in an urban setting. The authors explore how the coastal ocean impacts with the humans who live, work and play along its shores; and in turn how human activities impact the health and dynamics of the coastal ocean. Fundamental topics covered include: the governing dynamical equations; tidal and circulation processes; variation of salinity and freshwater fluxes; watershed pollutants; observing systems; and climate change. Bridging the gaps between the fields of engineering, physical and social sciences, economics, and policy, this book is for anyone who wishes to learn about the physics, chemistry, and biology of coastal waters. It will support an introductory course on urban oceanography at the advanced undergraduate and graduate level, and will also prove invaluable as a reference text for researchers, professionals, coastal urban planners, and environmental engineers.

Our knowledge of the oceans is increasing rapidly, as more powerful tools for exploration and exploitation make it easier to locate valuable resources, such as fish stocks, oil and gas reserves, or sites for wind and hydropower schemes. At the same time competition for space has intensified, affecting marine life and people's livelihoods. Much has been written about marine management using marine protected areas, but MPAs are only a small subset of spatial management tools available. MPAs and MPA networks are better seen as starting points for more comprehensive spatial management, facilitated by ocean zoning. This logical scaling up from discreet piecemeal protected areas to larger and more systematic planning is happening around the world, but few are aware that we are entering a brave new world in ocean management with zoning at its core. This book provides guidance on using ocean zoning to improve marine management. It reviews the benefits of ocean zoning in theory, reviews progress made in zoning around the world through a wide range of case studies, and derives lessons learned to recommend a process by which future zoning can be maximally effective and efficient. Published with MARES, Forest Trends and UNEP

Cotidal lines are lines on a map which connect points at which the same tidal level occurs simultaneously. Isaac Newton had explained the movement of the tides by the action of the moon and sun, and Daniel Bernoulli had used Newton's findings to create tide tables for specific locations, but William Whewell wanted to take research further by gathering and analysing information which would link cotidal points or lines across the world. Fellow and eventually Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, Whewell (1794 1866) published this work in 1833. In it he proposes various observations that would need to be undertaken to produce a cotidal map, with detailed descriptions of the factors to be taken into account in computing the results. In 1837, Whewell, several of whose other works are also reissued in this series, was awarded a royal prize medal by the Royal Society for his work on 'tidology'."

The polar regions are the 'canary in the coal mine' of climate change: they are likely to be hit the hardest and fastest. This comprehensive textbook provides an accessible introduction to the scientific study of polar environments against a backdrop of climate change and the wider global environment. The book assembles diverse information on polar environmental characteristics in terrestrial and oceanic domains, and describes the ongoing changes in climate, the oceans, and components of the cryosphere. Recent significant changes in the polar region caused by global warming are explored: shrinking Arctic sea ice, thawing permafrost, accelerating loss of mass from glaciers and ice sheets, and rising ocean temperatures. These rapidly changing conditions are discussed in the context of the paleoclimatic history of the polar regions from the Eocene to the Anthropocene. Future projections for these regions during the twenty-first century are discussed. The text is illustrated with many color figures and tables, and includes further reading lists, review questions for each chapter, and a glossary.

In later life the recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize for his humanitarian work, the explorer and scientist Fridtjof Nansen (1861 1930) encouraged and supported the 1901 voyage of his fellow Norwegian Roald Amundsen (1872 1928), publishing this account of its scientific findings in 1906. Amundsen had just purchased his famous boat, the Gjoa, and wanted to test her in Arctic waters. He planned to pay for the expedition by hunting seals, but wanted to carry out scientific work at the same time. On Nansen's advice, he decided to make oceanographic observations. After a six-month voyage, he returned with both observations and samples of water and plankton which considerably enlarged understanding of the bottom waters of the Norwegian Sea and the play of current in the area. Nansen's work supplies technical details, diagrams and maps from this remarkable scientific survey."

The limiting influence of the environment on sonar has long been recognised as a major challenge to science and technology. As the area of interest shifts towards the lit toral, environmental influences become dominant both in time and space. The manyfold challenges encompass prediction, measurement, assessment and adaptive responses to maximize the effectiveness of systems. Although MCM and ASW activities are dom inated in different ways and scales by the environment, both warfare areas have had to consider the significantly changing requirements posed by operations in the littoraL The fundamental scientific issues involved in developing models relating acoustics to the environment are matched in difficulty by the need for data for their validation and eventual practical use for prediction. In many instances the need is for on-line adaptation of systems to changing circumstances whilst other needs are for the Ionger term planning activities. This book and the attached full-color CD are the proceedings of a conference organ ised by the SACLANT Undersea Research Centre, held at Villa Marigola, Lerici, Italy, on 16-20 September 2002. The fundamental problems associated with environmental 1 variability and sonar were explored at a previous SACLANTCEN conference in 1990. These problems have not gone away but, on the one hand are exaggerated by the move to the littoral and on the other hand, are open to treatrnent in new ways that advances in technology and computer power allow.

The 2011 Tohoku earthquake generated a tsunami that caused severe damage including 20,000 casualties in Japan. The tsunami also affected other Pacific coasts, including the Kuril Islands, the USA, French Polynesia, the Galapagos Islands, Australia, and New Zealand. This volume contains an introduction and 21papers, mostly presented at the 25th International Tsunami Symposium held 1-4 July 2011, only four months after the tsunami. They report seismological aspects of the event related to the tsunami warning, the tsunami impacts and effects in Japan and around the Pacific, analyses of instrumental tsunami data and modelling.

John Young Buchanan (1844-1925) was a Scottish chemist and oceanographer who worked extensively on the chemistry of marine environments. Originally published in 1917, this book gathers together a selection of Buchanan's papers on a broad variety of topics, some of them non-scientific. Numerous illustrative figures are also included and the contents listing contains extensive notes on each of the papers. This book will be of value to anyone with an interest in the writings of Buchanan, chemistry, oceanography and the history of science.

John Young Buchanan (1844-1925) was a Scottish chemist and oceanographer, he worked extensively on the chemistry of marine environments. Originally published in 1919, this book gathers together a selection of Buchanan's papers on a broad variety of topics, some of them non-scientific. Numerous illustrative figures are also included and the contents listing contains extensive notes on each of the papers. This book will be of value to anyone with an interest in the writings of Buchanan, chemistry, oceanography and the history of science.

This book presents a systemic view of the diversity of pressures and impacts produced by climate change and human actions. Erosion of biodiversity by changing ocean chemistry, the intensification of global change raises the problem of the adaptation of living resources. Land uses induce ecological imbalances leading to asphyxiation true coastal ecosystems. More than a billion tons of solid waste must be assimilated by the marine environment and food webs. Radioactive discharges emitted into the atmosphere or into the aquatic environment, raise the question of their future. Sea and Ocean series offers a transversal approach of the ocean system that leads to governance, sustainable resource management and adaptation of societies.

Science and Engineering of Freak Waves provides a holistic and interdisciplinary view of extreme ocean waves for both scientific and engineering applications. Readers will learn the fundamental theory of extreme waves and the implications they have on coastal structures and methods of prediction through chapters that review the definitions of extreme waves, their history and other important observations. After this, the book's authors describe the theory and modeling of extreme waves that occur in various situations. Final sections provide examples of the application of extreme wave research results to various engineering designs are presented. This book provides a comprehensive overview of the current status of our understandings on freak/rogue waves, the science of extreme waves, prediction, and their engineering applications. As such, it is a must read for physical oceanographers looking for a better understanding of prediction models and the history of these waves, and engineers looking for more information on preparedness and implications for offshore structures and shipping.

Modeling and prediction of oceanographic phenomena and climate is based on the integration of dynamic equations. The Equations of Oceanic Motions derives and systematically classifies the most common dynamic equations used in physical oceanography, from large-scale thermohaline circulations to those governing small scale motions and turbulence. After establishing the basic dynamical equations that describe all oceanic motions, Muller then derives approximate equations, emphasizing the assumptions made and physical processes eliminated. He distinguishes between geometric, thermodynamic and dynamic approximations and between the acoustic, gravity, vortical and temperature-salinity modes of motion. Basic concepts and formulae of equilibrium thermodynamics, vector and tensor calculus, curvilinear coordinate systems, and the kinematics of fluid motion and wave propagation are covered in appendices. Providing the basic theoretical background for graduate students and researchers of physical oceanography and climate science, this book will serve as both a comprehensive text and an essential reference.

This book was first published in 2005. When an oceanic tidal wave that is primarily active on the water surface passes an ocean shelf or a region with a seamount, it is split into a less energetic surface wave and other internal modes with different wavelengths and propagation speeds. This cascading process, from the barotropic tides to the baroclinic components, leads to the transformation of tidal energy into turbulence and heat, an important process for the dynamics of the lower ocean. Baroclinic Tides demonstrates the analytical and numerical methods used to study the generation and evolution of baroclinic tides and, by comparison with experiments and observational data, shows how to distinguish and interpret internal waves. Strongly non-linear solitary internal waves, which are generated by internal tidal waves at the final stage of their evolution, are investigated in detail. This book is intended for researchers and graduate students of physical oceanography, geophysical fluid dynamics and hydroacoustics.

The problems of making inferences about the natural world from noisy observations and imperfect theories occur in almost all scientific disciplines. This 2006 book addresses these problems using examples taken from geophysical fluid dynamics. It focuses on discrete formulations, both static and time-varying, known variously as inverse, state estimation or data assimilation problems. Starting with fundamental algebraic and statistical ideas, the book guides the reader through a range of inference tools including the singular value decomposition, Gauss-Markov and minimum variance estimates, Kalman filters and related smoothers, and adjoint (Lagrange multiplier) methods. The final chapters discuss a variety of practical applications to geophysical flow problems. Discrete Inverse and State Estimation Problems is an ideal introduction to the topic for graduate students and researchers in oceanography, meteorology, climate dynamics, and geophysical fluid dynamics. It is also accessible to a wider scientific audience; the only prerequisite is an understanding of linear algebra.

In Tides: The Science and Spirit of the Ocean, writer, sailor, and surfer Jonathan White takes readers across the globe to discover the science and spirit of ocean tides. In the Arctic, White shimmies under the ice with an Inuit elder to hunt for mussels in the dark cavities left behind at low tide; in China, he races the Silver Dragon, a twenty-five-foot tidal bore that crashes eighty miles up the Qiantang River; in France, he interviews the monks that live in the tide-wrapped monastery of Mont Saint-Michel; in Chile and Scotland, he investigates the growth of tidal power generation; and in Panama and Venice, he delves into how the threat of sea level rise is changing human culture—the very old and very new. Tides combines lyrical prose, colorful adventure travel, and provocative scientific inquiry into the elemental, mysterious paradox that keeps our planet’s waters in constant motion. Photographs, scientific figures, line drawings, and sixteen color photos dramatically illustrate this engaging, expert tour of the tides.

Senior level/graduate level text/reference presenting state-of-the- art numerical techniques to solve the wave equation in heterogeneous fluid-solid media. Numerical models have become standard research tools in acoustic laboratories, and thus computational acoustics is becoming an increasingly important branch of ocean acoustic science. The first edition of this successful book, written by the recognized leaders of the field, was the first to present a comprehensive and modern introduction to computational ocean acoustics accessible to students. This revision, with 100 additional pages, completely updates the material in the first edition and includes new models based on current research. It includes problems and solutions in every chapter, making the book more useful in teaching (the first edition had a separate solutions manual). The book is intended for graduate and advanced undergraduate students of acoustics, geology and geophysics, applied mathematics, ocean engineering or as a reference in computational methods courses, as well as professionals in these fields, particularly those working in government (especially Navy) and industry labs engaged in the development or use of propagating models.

Increasing population, expanding industry and commerce, and tourism are placing added pressures on an already highly-utilized coastal zone. This book, through a series of case studies, illustrates the variety of changes already made along the coastlines of the world. The examples used are mainly from China, Japan, The Netherlands, and the United States, all countries with extensively engineered shorelines. Modifications emphasized include those associated with protection against coastal erosion, building of artificial beaches and islands, reclamation for aquaculture and agriculture, and the construction of harbors. The information in this book should be useful for all planners and engineers involved in the construction of coastal engineering works and for students interested in coastal modification.

This advanced textbook on modeling, data analysis and numerical techniques for marine science has been developed from a course taught by the authors for many years at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute. The first part covers statistics: singular value decomposition, error propagation, least squares regression, principal component analysis, time series analysis and objective interpolation. The second part deals with modeling techniques: finite differences, stability analysis and optimization. The third part describes case studies of actual ocean models of ever increasing dimensionality and complexity, starting with zero-dimensional models and finishing with three-dimensional general circulation models. Throughout the book hands-on computational examples are introduced using the MATLAB programming language and the principles of scientific visualization are emphasised. Ideal as a textbook for advanced students of oceanography on courses in data analysis and numerical modeling, the book is also an invaluable resource for a broad range of scientists undertaking modeling in chemical, biological, geological and physical oceanography.

This unique collaboration of Russian and Norwegian scientists examines the most recent data on the White Sea bathymetry, examines the ecosystem profile, and provides extensive historical marine and riverine data records. The book presents extensive data and numerical modelling simulations of the White Sea to provide a quantitative assessment of vulnerability of the Sea 's marine ecosystems, of future anthropogenic and climate change forcing.

Half of the world's population today lives in coastal regions lapped by tidal waters. But the tide rises and falls according to rules that are a mystery to almost all of us. In The Tide, celebrated science writer Hugh Aldersey-Williams weaves together centuries of scientific thinking with the literature and folklore the tide has inspired to explain the power and workings of this most remarkable force. Here is the epic story of the long search to understand the tide from Aristotle, to Galileo and Newton, to classic literary portrayals of the tide from Shakespeare to Dickens, Melville to Jules Verne. Throughout, Aldersey-Williams whisks the reader along on his travels: He visits the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia, where the tides are the strongest in the world; arctic Norway, home of the raging tidal whirlpool known as the maelstrom; and Venice, to investigate efforts to defend the city against flooding caused by the famed acqua alta.

This 2005 book gives a comprehensive overview of measurement techniques and theories for marine turbulence and mixing processes. It describes the processes which control the mixing of greenhouse gases, nutrients, trace elements, and hazardous substances in our oceans and shelf seas - from local to planetary scales. These processes buffer climate changes and are centrally important for regional to global ecosystem dynamics. The publication also contains source codes of turbulence models and models of the upper-ocean mixing layer (COHERENS and GOTM), and observational data sets of turbulence characteristics or corresponding proxies of waters from all over the world. These can be found at www.cambridge.org/9780521153720. Written by a team of 53 world-leading experts, it represents a rich source of data and methods for students and scientists in oceanography, hydrology, limnology, and meteorology, as well as marine, naval and civil engineers.

This 1971 volume presents the proceedings of a Symposium of Micropalaeontology of Marine Bottom Sediments held in Cambridge, England, in September 1967. The collection and paleontological interpretations of deep-sea sediments had only been carried out intensively for the twenty years preceding the book's publication, and it provides a summary of the state of knowledge in this field as it stood. Beginning with a consideration of the organisms in relation to the water in which they live, successive chapters deal with the descent of the skeletons to the sea floor, their entombment in the sediments and their interpretation to elucidate the history of the oceans. It is written by many of the specialists responsible for the development of this field and includes numerous Russian contributions. This book became the definitive compendium for students and workers in oceanography and palaeontology, and is still a useful resource today.

Persistent organic contaminants, which are bioaccumulative and toxic are a concern for the ecosystems and human health and are regulated under international law (global and regional conventions, besides other). If semivolatile, they cycle in different environmental compartments and follow complex transport pathways. The ocean is believed to play a key role in the cycling by accumulating and storing the contaminant and providing a transport medium. But substance fate in the marine environment is not fully understood yet. Here, the global multicompartment chemistry-transport model MPI-MCTM is used to study the fate of organic pollutants in the marine and total environment. For the first time historical emission data are used in spatially-resolved long-term simulations of an insecticide, DDT, and an industrial chemical, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA). The model results give new insights into the cycling of these substances as different spatial and process resolutions were tested. E.g. for DDT the model results show saturation and reversal of air-sea exchange, which was not indicated by any other study before.

The ocean is transparent to sound where slight irregularities within the ocean cause sound fluctuations, and thus set limits on the many uses of sound in the ocean, similar to the limits imposed by the atmosphere on ground-based telescopes. This 1979 book attempts to connect the known structure of the ocean volume with experimental results in long-range sound transmission. Theories of wave propagation through irregular media, developed for optical and radio wave transmission are found to be inapplicable in many respects due to the complications of ocean structure, particularly the combination of anisotropy and 'sound channel'. The authors extend wave propagation theory to account for the ocean complications and introduces the path-integral approach to the solution of the strong-scattering regime that solves many long-standing problems. The book is written at the post-graduate level, but has been carefully organised to give experimenters a grasp of important results without undue mathematics.

""Ocean Biogeochemical Dynamics" is an outstanding text for student and professional alike. The authors have developed an exceptionally lucid yet detailed discussion of the major biogeochemical cycles in the oceans, culminating in a quantitative examination of climate change and the contemporary carbon cycle. The book is a tour de force that should be incorporated into all marine chemistry and biogeochemistry courses."--Paul Falkowski, Rutgers University

"Global ocean research projects during the past two decades have resulted in explosive growth in our knowledge of ocean biogeochemistry. Sarmiento and Gruber's book crystallizes this knowledge into a systematic quantitative treatise. For many years to come, this observation--and equation-filled volume will serve as a window into the literature on many subjects, a textbook for our classes, and a reference book on our desks. Studied carefully, it could teach chemical, biological, and physical oceanographers to speak a common language."--Edward A. Boyle, Massachusetts Institute of Technology

"With this book, ocean biogeochemistry--the fascinating science behind the cycling of elements in the sea, and their transformation by biological, chemical, and physical properties--has finally found its theoretical underpinning. The two authors, both world experts, have succeeded in bringing together in a comprehensive and unified way the mass of information from the different scientific disciplines as well as the numerous observations obtained over the last few decades. This book will serve as the ultimate reference, both for students and the advanced research scientist, for many years to come."--Martin Heimann, Max Planck Institute forBiogeochemistry

"The Sarmiento and Gruber text is a very impressive achievement, providing a readable yet advanced treatise on ocean biogeochemistry and providing the best available summary of the advances of the last few decades. The emphasis on dynamics is highly relevant for studies of global change, while the emphasis on problem solving has yielded an invaluable teaching reference."--Ralph Keeling, Scripps Institution of Oceanography

Sarmiento and Gruber have cleverly found the middle ground between the "educated layman" approach so often typified in "soft sciences" and the stultifying rigor that cloaks the conceptual simplicity underlying many of the foundations of the field. They don't shy away from mathematical explanations but rather use them to make their points succinctly, and to clarify what is often a confused muddle in more basic texts."--W.J. Jenkins, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution