Coastal basins are defined as estuaries, lagoons, and embayments. This book deals with the science of coastal basins using simple models, many of which are presented in either analytical form or Microsoft Excel or MATLAB. The book introduces simple hydrodynamics and its applications, from the use of simple box and one-dimensional models to flow over coral reefs. The book also emphasizes models as a scientific tool in our understanding of coasts, and introduces the value of the most modern flexible mesh combined wave-current models. Examples from shallow basins around the world illustrate the wonders of the scientific method and the power of simple dynamics. This book is ideal for use as an advanced textbook for graduate students and as an introduction to the topic for researchers, especially those from other fields of science needing a basic understanding of the basic ideas of the dynamics of coastal basins.

Observations of ocean circulation have increased as a result of international field programmes and of remote sensing systems on artificial earth satellites. Oceanographers are increasingly turning to inverse methods for combining these observations with numerical models of ocean circulation. Professor Bennett's work explores the potential for inverse theory, emphasizing possibilities rather than expedient or rudimentary applications. In addition to interpolating the data and adding realism to the model solutions, the methods can yield estimates for unobserved flow variables, forcing fields, and model parameters. Inverse formulations can resolve ill-posed modelling problems, lead to design criteria for oceanic observing systems, and enable the testing of models as scientific hypothesis. Exercises of varying difficulty rehearse technical skills and supplement the central theoretical development. Thus this book will be invaluable for environmental scientists and engineers, advanced undergraduates in applied mathematics, and graduate students in physical oceanography.

This textbook provides an introduction to turbulent motion occurring naturally in the ocean on scales ranging from millimetres to hundreds of kilometres. It describes turbulence in the mixed boundary layers at the sea surface and seabed, turbulent motion in the density-stratified water between, and the energy sources that support and sustain ocean mixing. Little prior knowledge of physical oceanography is assumed. The text is supported by numerous figures, extensive further reading lists, and more than 50 exercises that are graded in difficulty. Detailed solutions to the exercises are available to instructors online at www.cambridge.org/9780521859486. This textbook is intended for undergraduate courses in physical oceanography, and all students interested in multidisciplinary aspects of how the ocean works, from the shoreline to the deep abyssal plains. It also forms a useful lead-in to the author's more advanced graduate textbook, The Turbulent Ocean (Cambridge University Press, 2005).

Written by a group of international experts in their field, this book is a review of Lagrangian observation, analysis and assimilation methods in physical and biological oceanography. This multidisciplinary text presents new results on nonlinear analysis of Lagrangian dynamics, the prediction of particle trajectories, and Lagrangian stochastic models. It includes historical information, up-to-date developments, and speculation on future developments in Lagrangian-based observations, analysis, and modeling of physical and biological systems. Containing contributions from experimentalists, theoreticians, and modellers in the fields of physical oceanography, marine biology, mathematics, and meteorology, this book will be of great interest to researchers and graduate students looking for both practical applications and information on the theory of transport and dispersion in physical systems, biological modelling, and data assimilation.

Rich and strange from the tip of its title to its deep-sunk bones' Robert Macfarlane From the author of Leviathan, or, The Whale, comes a composite portrait of the subtle, beautiful, inspired and demented ways in which we have come to terms with our watery planet. In the third of his watery books, the author goes in pursuit of human and animal stories of the sea. Of people enchanted or driven to despair by the water, accompanied by whales and birds and seals - familiar spirits swimming and flying with the author on his meandering odyssey from suburbia into the unknown. Along the way, he encounters drowned poets and eccentric artists, modernist writers and era-defining performers, wild utopians and national heroes - famous or infamous, they are all surprisingly, and sometimes fatally, linked to the sea. Out of the storm-clouds of the twenty-first century and our restive time, these stories reach back into the past and forward into the future. This is a shape-shifting world that has never been certain, caught between the natural and unnatural, where the state between human and animal is blurred. Time, space, gender and species become as fluid as the sea. Here humans challenge their landbound lives through art or words or performance or myth, through the animal and the elemental. And here they are forever drawn back to the water, forever lost and found on the infinite sea.

Foraminifera and thecamoebians are highly sensitive to environmental stress (natural or anthropogenic). This feature means that they can be used to biologically characterize a variety of freshwater and coastal marine environments. Due to their small size and hard shells, large quantities are also found fossilised in core samples, making them ideal for reconstructing past environmental conditions. This volume covers the specific environmental applications of these organisms and contains an introduction to the subject, detailed descriptions of methods and techniques and case studies. Written for non-specialists, this book will appeal to resource managers and consultants in the public and private sector who routinely work on coastal environmental problems. The book will also serve as a supplementary text for graduate students in many courses on environmental monitoring, ecological baseline studies and environmental science.

Written for anyone interested in coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the resulting features seen in coastal systems across the world. Accessible to students from a range of disciplines, the quantitative approach of this book helps to build a solid understanding of wave and current processes that shape coastlines. From sandy beaches to coral reefs, the major coastal features are related to contemporary processes and to sea-level changes over the past 25,000 years. Key equations describing these processes and standard methods and instrumentation used to collect measurements are all presented in this wide-ranging overview. Designed to support a one- or two-semester course and grounded in current research, this second edition has been substantially updated and rewritten - featuring cutting-edge new topics, insights from new models and technologies, additional global examples and an enhanced package of online teaching materials.

This 1995 text is addressed to advanced students in oceanography, meteorology and environmental sciences, as well as to professional researchers in these fields. It aims to acquaint them with advances in experimental and theoretical investigations of ocean-atmosphere interactions, a rapidly developing field in earth sciences. Particular attention is paid to the scope and perspectives for satellite measurements and mathematical modeling. Approaches to the construction of coupled ocean-atmosphere models (from the simplest one-dimensional to the most comprehensive three-dimensional ones) for the solution of key problems in climate theory are discussed in detail. Field measurements and the results of numerical climate simulations are presented, to help understand the variability arising from various natural and anthropogenic factors.

Inverse Modeling of the Ocean and Atmosphere is a graduate-level book for students of oceanography and meteorology, and anyone interested in combining computer models and observations of the hydrosphere or solid earth. A step-by-step development of maximally efficient inversion algorithms, using ideal models, is complemented by computer codes and comprehensive details for realistic models. Variational tools and statistical concepts are concisely introduced, and applications to contemporary research models, together with elaborate observing systems, are examined in detail. The book offers a review of the various alternative approaches, and further advanced research topics are discussed. Derived from the author's lecture notes, this book constitutes an ideal course companion for graduate students, as well as being a valuable reference source for researchers and managers in theoretical earth science, civil engineering and applied mathematics.

Geology of the United States' Seafloor presents new, definitive studies of the seafloor adjacent to various regions of the United States--the West Coast, East Coast, Alaskan margin, Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean--from the GLORIA long-range sidescan sonar images, complementary seismic profiling, and magnetic surveys. This spectacular dataset provides a new insight into the structural evolution of the seafloor, and the sedimentary processes that have modified it. Such a comprehensive interpretation of the images, in the context of the geology and geological processes of the seafloor, is presented here for the first time. New concepts have emerged and scientists have garnered much new knowledge as a result of this surveying. Geology of the United States' Seafloor will be useful to the broad range of advanced students and scientists studying the continental margins and the seafloors of the world.

A FINANCIAL TIMES BEST ECONOMICS BOOK OF 2022 'A landmark book... The Blue Commons is at once a brilliant synthesis, a searing analysis, and an inspiring call to action.' - David Bollier 'With remarkable erudition, passion and lyricism, Guy Standing commands the reader to wake up to the threat posed by rentier capitalism's violent policies for extraction, exploitation and depletion of that which is both common to us all, but also vital to our survival: the sea and all within it.' - Ann Pettifor 'Shines a bright light on the economy of the oceans, directing us brilliantly towards where a sustainable future lies.' - Danny Dorling 'This is a powerful, visionary book - essential reading for all who yearn for a better world.' - Jason Hickel The sea provides more than half the oxygen we breathe, food for billions of people and livelihoods for hundreds of millions. But giant corporations are plundering the world's oceans, aided by global finance and complicit states, following the neoliberal maxim of Blue Growth. The situation is dire: rampant exploitation and corruption now drive all aspects of the ocean economy, destroying communities, intensifying inequalities, and driving fish populations and other ocean life towards extinction. The Blue Commons is an urgent call for change, from a campaigning economist responsible for some of the most innovative solutions to inequality of recent times. From large nations bullying smaller nations into giving up eco-friendly fishing policies to the profiteering by the Crown Estate in commandeering much of the British seabed, the scale of the global problem is synthesised here for the first time, as well as a toolkit for all of us to rise up and tackle it. The oceans have been left out of calls for a Green New Deal but must be at the centre of the fight against climate change. How do we do it? By building a Blue Commons alternative: a transformative worldview and new set of proposals that prioritise the historic rights of local communities, the wellbeing of all people and, with it, the health of our oceans.

In this "wonderfully vivid, kinetic narrative" (The New York Times), the bestselling author of Voices in the Ocean captures colossal, ship-swallowing waves, and the surfers and scientists who seek them out.

For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge. As Susan Casey travels the globe, hunting these monsters of the ocean with Hamilton’s crew, she witnesses first-hand the life or death stakes, the glory, and the mystery of impossibly mammoth waves. Yet for the scientists who study them, these waves represent something truly scary brewing in the planet’s waters.

With inexorable verve, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.

An interdisciplinary study of the Kuroshio nutrient stream The surface water of the Kuroshio, a western boundary current in the North Pacific Ocean, is nutrient-depleted and has relatively low primary productivity, yet abundant fish populations are supported in the region. This is called the "Kuroshio Paradox". Kuroshio Current: Physical, Biogeochemical and Ecosystem Dynamics presents research from a multidisciplinary team that conducted observational and modeling studies to investigate this contradiction. This timely and important contribution to the ocean sciences literature provides a comprehensive analysis of the Kuroshio. Volume highlights include: New insights into the role of the Kuroshio as a nutrient stream The first interdisciplinary examination of the Kuroshio Paradox Reflections on the influence of the Kuroshio on Japanese culture Research results on both the lower and higher trophic levels in the Kuroshio ecosystem Comparisons of nutrient dynamics in the Kuroshio and Gulf Stream Predictions of ecosystem responses to future climate variability

From where -- and what -- does water come? How did it become the key to life in the universe? Water from Heaven presents a state-of-the-art portrait of the science of water, recounting how the oxygen needed to form H2O originated in the nuclear reactions in the interiors of stars, asking whether microcomets may be replenishing our world's oceans, and explaining how the Moon and planets set ice-age rhythms by way of slight variations in Earth's orbit and rotation. The book then takes the measure of water today in all its states, solid and gaseous as well as liquid.

How do the famous El Ni?o and La Ni?a events in the Pacific affect our weather? What clues can water provide scientists in search of evidence of climate changes of the past, and how does it complicate their predictions of future global warming? Finally, Water from Heaven deals with the role of water in the rise and fall of civilizations. As nations grapple over watershed rights and pollution controls, water is poised to supplant oil as the most contested natural resource of the new century. The vast majority of water "used" today is devoted to large-scale agriculture and though water is a renewable resource, it is not an infinite one. Already many parts of the world are running up against the limits of what is readily available.

Water from Heaven is, in short, the full story of water and all its remarkable properties. It spans from water's beginnings during the formation of stars, all the way through the origin of the solar system, the evolution of life on Earth, the rise of civilization, and what will happen in the future. Dealing with the physical, chemical, biological, and political importance of water, this book transforms our understanding of our most precious, and abused, resource. Robert Kandel shows that water presents us with a series of crucial questions and pivotal choices that will change the way you look at your next glass of water.

Since the mid-nineteenth century, agricultural development and fisheries management in northern Japan have been profoundly shaped by how people within and beyond Japan have compared Hokkaido's landscapes to those of other places, as part of efforts to make the new Japanese nation-state more legibly "modern." In doing so, they engaged in non-conforming modes of thinking that reached out to diverse places, including the American West and southern Chile. Today, the comparisons made by Hokkaido fishing industry professionals, scientists, and Ainu indigenous groups between the island's forests, fields, and waters and those of other places around the world continue to dramatically affect the region's approaches to environmental management and its physical landscapes. In this far-ranging ethnography, Heather Anne Swanson shows how this traffic in ideas shapes the course of Hokkaido's development, its fish, and the lives of people on and beyond the island while structuring trade dynamics, political economy, and multispecies relations in watersheds around the globe.

This publication identifies investment approaches, opportunities, and finance mechanisms in Southeast Asia that can promote and catalyze funds for a sustainable ocean economy. It provides an overview of the "blue economy"" and emphasizes its significance for protecting the biodiversity of natural resources in Southeast Asia. The "blue economy" is defined as the sustainable use of ocean and coastal resources to drive economic growth and improve livelihoods, while protecting and nurturing marine ecosystems. The publication looks how multilateral and bilateral funding sources, a market-based approach, incentives, and regulations can contribute to achieving a blue economy. It also discusses how these elements need to be aligned within a cohesive development framework.

Time-series analysis is used to identify and quantify periodic features in datasets and has many applications across the geosciences, from analysing weather data, to solid-Earth geophysical modelling. This intuitive introduction provides a practical 'how-to' guide to basic Fourier theory, with a particular focus on Earth system applications. The book starts with a discussion of statistical correlation, before introducing Fourier series and building to the fast Fourier transform (FFT) and related periodogram techniques. The theory is illustrated with numerous worked examples using R datasets, from Milankovitch orbital-forcing cycles to tidal harmonics and exoplanet orbital periods. These examples highlight the key concepts and encourage readers to investigate more advanced time-series techniques. The book concludes with a consideration of statistical effect size and significance. This useful book is ideal for graduate students and researchers in the Earth system sciences who are looking for an accessible introduction to time-series analysis.

Covering 70 percent of the surface area of our globe, the oceans are vast and mysterious and primal and pretty much everywhere you go. The Handy Ocean Answer Book tackles over 1,000 questions on ocean life, waterspouts, whirlpools, ocean shelves, tides and quakes, famous shipwrecks, the effects of pollution and global warming, and more. Plus, you'll find out what the ocean has revealed about the origins and evolution of life on our planet and major climate changes. With 180 photos and illustrations, Handy Ocean will please landlubbers and salty sailors alike.

In 1940 Steinbeck sailed in a sardine boat with his great friend the marine biologist, Ed Ricketts, to collect marine invertebrates from the beaches of the Gulf of California.

The expedition was described by the two men in SEA OF CORTEZ, published in 1941. The day-to-day story of the trip is told here in the Log, which combines science, philosophy and high-spirited adventue.

An exhilarating and highly entertaining read.

The 6e of "Descriptive Physical Oceanography" provides an introduction to descriptive physical oceanography for advanced undergraduates and graduate students. The emphasis is on large-scale oceanography, based mainly in observations, with some topics from waves and coastal oceanography also included. Topics include the physical properties of seawater, heat and salt budgets, instrumentation, data analysis methods, introductory dynamics, oceanography and climate variability of each of the oceans and of the global ocean, and brief introductions to the physical setting, waves, and coastal oceanography.
Expanded ocean basin descriptions, including ocean climate variability, emphasizing dynamical contextNew chapters on global ocean circulation and introductory ocean dynamics Companion website containing PowerPoint figures, supplemental chapters, and practical exercises for analyzing a global ocean data set using Java OceanAtlas

How do you dig up a 13,000 year-old footprint? Why do kelp forests need sea otters? How do you measure a shrinking glacier from an airplane? What is a 'zombie urchin'? Heart of the Coast brings these questions to life in a deep exploration of the beauty, mystery and biodiversity of the Pacific coast. Join Hakai Institute researchers in the field-archaeologists, oceanographers, marine biologists and beyond-as they journey from the ice fields of Klinaklini Glacier to the dazzling undersea reefs of a place called Crazy Town. British Columbia's Central Coast is a rich landscape called "a biologist's dream" and "the Amazon of the north." Since launching its Calvert Island ecological observatory there in 2009, the Hakai Institute has become a renowned centre of science and exploration. Collaborations with the Smithsonian Institution, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, and several First Nations on the BC coast--along with a wide array of scientists hailing from other agencies and universities across North America-have uncovered new species, advanced our knowledge of marine food webs, and helped track the effects of climate change on watersheds and coastal ecosystems. Stunning photography illuminates the institute's journey of discovery over the past decade. This unforgettable book will inspire you with wonder and awe for the natural world, but be careful-you may learn something along the way.

This book provides a comprehensive overview of ocean electronics, energy conversion, and instrumentation. As remote (satellite) sensing becomes increasingly important, this text provides readers with a solid background of wireless sensor networks and image-processing for oceans and ocean-related energy issues. Features: Focuses on wind energy, ocean wave, ocean tidal, and ocean thermal energy conversion Discusses the measurements of ocean monitoring parameters such as ocean color, sediment monitoring methods, surface currents, surface wind waves, wave height and wind speed, sea surface temperature, upwelling, wave power and the ocean floor Discusses sensors like scanner sensor systems, weather satellites sensors, synthetic aperture radar sensors, marine observation satellite(MOS) sensors, micro sensors for monitoring ocean acidification Includes material on underwater acoustics and underwater communication Assesses the environmental impact of generating energy from the ocean Explores the design of applications of marine electronics and oceanographic instruments

In order to understand the state of the oceans, researchers turn to the origins of global waters, 90 million years ago. This study explores the subject of sea-level change in the Phanerozoic era, a topic which has much relevance to current issues of climatic shifts and the greenhouse effect.

Professor Bennett's work explores the potential for inverse theory, emphasizing possibilities rather than expedient or rudimentary applications. In addition to interpolating the data and adding realism to the model solutions, the methods can yield estimates for unobserved flow variables, forcing fields, and model parameters. Inverse formulations can resolve ill-posed modeling problems, lead to design criteria for oceanic observing systems, and enable the testing of models as scientific hypothesis. Ocean models considered range from linear, finite-dimensional systems of equality and inequality constraints, to nonlinear, regional primitive-equation models. Examples from the recent oceanographic literature are analyzed, and several outstanding research problems are surveyed. The methods employ solution techniques including Kalman filters and smoothers, representer expansions and descent algorithms. Exercises of varying difficulty rehearse technical skills and supplement the central theoretical development.

Lynne Cox has set open water swimming records across the world, and now she has focused her decades-long experience and expertise into this definitive guide to swimming. Cox methodically addresses what is needed to succeed at and enjoy open water swimming, including choosing the right bathing suit and sunscreen; surviving in dangerous weather conditions, currents, and waves; confronting various marine organisms; treating ailments, such as being stung or bitten, and much more. Cox calls upon Navy SEAL training materials and instructors' knowledge of open water swimming and safety procedures to guide her research. In addition, first-hand anecdotes from SEAL specialists and stories of Cox's own experiences serve as both warnings and proper practices to adopt.
"Open Water Swimming Manual" provides a wealth of knowledge for all swimmers, from seasoned triathletes and expert swimmers to beginners exploring open water swimming for the first time. It is, as well, the first manual of its kind to make use of oceanography, marine biology, and to weave in stories about the successes and failures of other athletes, giving us a deeper, broader understanding of this exhilarating and fast growing sport.