It all began with Markus Jochum approaching one of us (HvS) - "when you guys are doing interviews with senior scientists from oceanography and related sciences, why are you not doing Walter Munk?" Indeed, why not? Walter Munk, an icon in oceanography, had just given a wonderful talk in a symposium in honor of his 90th birthday, sweeping a grand circle from his earliest work with Chip Cox on airborne measurements of ocean surface roughness to the latest satellite data - not simply a review, but the struggle of an active scientist opening up new perspectives - as inspiring and stimulating as when one of us (KH) rst met him at the Ocean Waves Conference in Easton in 1961 (Fig. I. 1). Walter immediately agreed to share with us his recollections on the nearly seventy years of his path-breaking contributions in a sheer amazing range of topics, from ocean waves, internal waves, ocean currents, tides, tsunamis, sea level, microseisms and the rotation of the earth to ocean acoustic tomography. With "you guys" Markus was referring to HvS and the various partners HvS had 1 invited to join him in conducting a series of interviews of retired colleagues.

Data assimilation methods were largely developed for operational weather forecasting, but in recent years have been applied to an increasing range of earth science disciplines. This book will set out the theoretical basis of data assimilation with contributions by top international experts in the field. Various aspects of data assimilation are discussed including: theory; observations; models; numerical weather prediction; evaluation of observations and models; assessment of future satellite missions; application to components of the Earth System. References are made to recent developments in data assimilation theory (e.g. Ensemble Kalman filter), and to novel applications of the data assimilation method (e.g. ionosphere, Mars data assimilation).

This book is dedicated to the study of structure and transport of deep and bottom waters above and through underwater channels of the Atlantic Ocean. The study is based on recent observations, analysis of historical data, and literature reviews. This approach allows us to understand how water transport and water mass prop- ties have changed over the last years and decades. The focus of our study is on the propagation of bottom waters in the Atlantic Ocean based on new field data at key points. At the end of the 1920s, the first integral study of water masses and bottom topography of the Central and South Atlantic was carried out from the German - search vessel Meteor. This German Atlantic Expedition was one of the first cruises equipped with the newly developed echo sounder (fathometer): an obligatory p- requisite for the investigation of bottom morphology in the deep sea on an - erational base. The results of the expedition were published by Wust, Defant, and colleagues in the multivolume METEOR publication series starting with the cruise report by the ship's commander (Spiess 1928, 1932). Historically, this series of p- lications, intermittently interrupted by World War II, was the basis for many years of research into the development of modern concepts about Atlantic water masses and their circulation schemes.

This is a book on the practical side of tropical meteorology which in its 3 Parts covered in 12 chapters reviews several current theories and ideas on tropical circulations and monsoons, offering new definitions and ideas to facilitate a systematic development of the subject. The book emphasizes the need for a system's approach to tropical circulations in general and monsoons in particular to facilitate orderly and systematic development of the topic.

To all those sailors / Who dreamed before us / Of another way to sail the oceans. The dedication of this Volume is meant to recall, and honour, the bold pioneers of ocean exploration, ancient as well as modern. As a marine scientist, dealing with the oceans through the complex tools, ?lters and mechanisms of contemporary research, I have always wondered what it was like, in centuries past, to look at that vast ho- zon with the naked eye, not knowing what was ahead, and yet to sail on. I have tried to imagine what ancient sailors felt, when "the unknown swirls around and engulfs the mind", as a forgotten author simply described the brave, perhaps reckless, act of facing such a hostile, menacing and yet fascinating adventure. Innovation has always been the key element, I think, for their success: another way, a better way, a more effective, safer and worthier way was the proper answer to the challenge. The map of our world has been changed time and again, from the geographical as well as the social, economic and scienti?c points of view, by the new discoveries of those sailors. One of the positive qualities of human beings is without doubt the inborn desire to expand their horizons, to see what lies beyond, to learn and understand.

Oceanic Migration studies the prehistoric peopling of the Pacific. It uses science and mathematics to expand the research base of Pacific prehistory and casts new light on this final human expansion. It explores the fundamental roles of oceanography and of global climate change in determining the paths, sequence, timing and range of Spice Island-based maritime migrations ranging across a quarter of the globe. The book is of interest to Pacific prehistorians, oceanographers and American anthropologists concerned with the diffusionist debate. For oceanographers it presents the new idea of the role of the West Pacific Warm Pool and of three of its four major currents in determining the evolution of voyaging in two oceans. For diffusionists it provides new chronological and technological contexts in which the issue of diffusionism needs to be reconsidered. For prehistorians it creates a paradigmatic shift by establishing a new time depth and mechanism for Polynesian exploration, offers a new view of voyaging and exploration strategies and of economic imperatives and adds a new dimension to the debate on Polynesian origins.

Dead-Reckoning aided with Doppler velocity measurement has been the most common method for underwater navigation for small vehicles. Unfortunately DR requires frequent position recalibrations and underwater vehicle navigation systems are limited to periodic position update when they surface. Finally standard Global Positioning System (GPS) receivers are unable to provide the rate or precision required when used on a small vessel. To overcome this, a low cost high rate motion measurement system for an Unmanned Surface Vehicle (USV) with underwater and oceanographic purposes is proposed. The proposed onboard system for the USV consists of an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) with accelerometers and rate gyros, a GPS receiver, a flux-gate compass, a roll and tilt sensor and an ADCP. Interfacing all the sensors proved rather challenging because of their different characteristics. The proposed data fusion technique integrates the sensors and develops an embeddable software package, using real time data fusion methods, for a USV to aid in navigation and control as well as controlling an onboard Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP). While ADCPs non-intrusively measure water flow, the vessel motion needs to be removed to analyze the data and the system developed provides the motion measurements and processing to accomplish this task.

A major task for physical oceanographers is to determine the movement of oceanic water from observations. This book introduces the P-vector inverse method, with a two-step determination of the velocity from hydrographic data. The book provide insights into the basics of the P-vector inverse method and the features of the inverted global and regional ocean circulations. Upper undergraduate and graduate students as well as oceanographers, marine biologists and other environmental scientists will find this book a valuable tool for their studies.

This book compiles for the first time the development of echinoderm research in Latin America. The book contains 17 chapters, one introductory, 15 country chapters, and a final biogeographic analysis. It compiles all the investigations published in international and local journals, reports, theses and other gray literature. Each chapter is composed of 7 sections: introduction describes the marine environments, and main oceanographic characteristics, followed by a history of research account divided by specific subjects. The next section addresses patterns of distribution and diversity. A specific section would explain fishery or aquaculture activities. The next sections deal with environmental and anthropogenic threats that are affecting echinoderm, and any conservation or management action. Finally, a section with conclusions, needs and new lines of research. The book will include two appendixes with species lists of all echinoderms with bathimetric data, habitat and distribution.

Sidescan sonar is proving to be the preeminent technique for researchers and professionals seeking knowledge about the structure and behavior of the seafloor, but its data is often difficult to interpret due to the physics of acoustic remote sensing, and to the varied geological processes at play. This book covers the fundamentals of sidescan sonar, incorporates new understanding of marine structures, and explains how to interpret sidescan sonar imagery and bathymetry.

Flood Geomorphology describes and analyzes global causes, effects and dynamics of floods and includes methods for related environmental management. It reviews recent advances in the interdisciplinary study of floods and their effects on landforms, sediments, human works, and populations. The use of morphometric parameters of drainage basins is covered and standard procedures for measuring geomorphically significant variables following a major flood are established. Specific chapters present data on the neglected topic of sedimentation in bedrock fluvial systems, and discuss, from the viewpoint of Holocene stratigraphy, common alluvial systems leading to flood plains. The book includes numerous photographs, illustrations and diagrams of flood effects around the world.

Unique combination and integrated assessment of three major fields in physical oceanography Providing both in depth scientific views and a historical overview Very prominent and reknown authors brought together

As the world grieves over the catastrophic loss of humanity from the 26 December 2004 tsunami, we must resolve to learn from nature's lessons. This issue provides a framework and a set of tools to develop communities that are resilient to tsunami. This collection of papers represents a starting point on our new journey toward a safer world. The history of tsunami hazard mitigation tracks well with the history of destructive tsunamis in the United States. Following the 1946 Alaska g- erated tsunami that killed 173 people in Hawaii, the Paci?c Tsunami Warning Center was established in Hawaii by a predecessor agency to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Following the 1960 Chilean tsunami that killed 1,000 people in Chile, 61 in Hawaii, and 199 in Japan, the United States formed the Joint Tsunami Research E?ort (JTRE) and sta?ed the International Tsunami Information Center (ITIC) in Hawaii. JTRE was formed to conduct research on tsunamis while ITIC, sponsored by the United Nations, was formed to coordinate tsunami warning e?orts of the Paci?c Countries. Many research and mitigation e?orts were focused on the distant tsunami problem. Following the 1964 Alaskan t- nami that killed 117 in Alaska, 11 in California, and 4 in Oregon, the U. S. was confronted with the local tsunami problem. In response, the U. S. established the Alaska Tsunami Warning Center in Palmer, Alaska. In 1992, a Ms 7.

This book presents new research on the mathematical description of tsunamis and hurricanes. The description includes dissipative terms and does not contain singularities or two valued functions. The book uses the equivalence principle of solutions of nonlinear large gas dynamic waves and of solutions of water wave equations. An extension of the continuity equation by a source term due to evaporation rates of salt seawater help to understand hurricanes. Detailed formula, tables, and results of the calculations are given.

With contributions from leading researchers in science and engineering, this book provides a global perspective on submarine mass movements and their consequences. Authors report on new findings from fundamental as well as site-specific studies from around the world. All studies relied on the most recent technologies, including multi-beam sonar imaging techniques, 3D seismic analysis, slope stability analysis, debris flow, and tsunami modeling.

Stable Isotope Geochemistry is an introduction to the use of stable isotopes in the geosciences. For students and scientists alike the book will be a primary source of information with regard to how and where stable isotopes can be used to solve geological problems. It is subdivided into three parts: i) theoretical and experimental principles, ii) fractionation processes of light and heavy elements, iii) the natural variations of geologically important reservoirs. In the last decade, major advances in multicollector-ICP-mass-spectrometry enable the precise determination of a wide range of transition and heavy elements. Progress in analysing the rare isotopes of certain elements allows the distinction between mass-dependent and mass-independent fractionations. These major advances in analytical techniques make an extended new edition necessary. Special emphasis has been given to the growing field of “non-traditional” isotope systems. Many new references have been added, which will enable quick access to recent literature.

A timely review of state-of-the-art tsunami research, covering case studies and recent developments from various approaches. Provides a practical guide to improving operational tsunami warning systems and mitigating coastal hazard from tsunamis.

Over the last few decades many studies have focused on the oxygen depletion of coastal and oceanic waters. An understanding of the processes involved is fundamental to assess the effects of global and climatic changes and to support an ecosystem approach to adaptive environmental management for coastal seas and ocean basins. This timely book presents the state-of-the-art of our knowledge of the nature and chemical structure of redox interfaces in a marine water column, oxygen depletion and connected processes. The structures of the redox layers, including the distribution of certain parameters and microbiological features, are described in detail. The volume also covers studies devoted to the interannual variability of some oxygen-depleted systems, modeling and new developments in observation techniques. In addition, it identifies remaining gaps in our knowledge of the cycling of chemical elements in changing redox conditions. The chapters are based on extensive observational data, collected by the authors during sea and shore expeditions, on archive data, and on a broad range of scientific literature.

In the Spring of 2000 the idea of a consortium of Mediterranean countries support- ing the Italian bid to host the 32nd International Geological Congress took off during ageological fieldtrip on the slopes ofMountVesuviushosted byProf. Bruno D'Argenio (University of Naples) with the sponsorship of SMED(the UNESCO-CNR Office for Scientific and Technological Cooperation with Mediterranean Countries). On that st occasion, the head of the Italian delegation to the coming 31 IGCProf. Gian Battista Vaichampionedthe notionthat - had the bid been accepted - such cooperationshould have not only translated into the participation of the Mediterranean countries in the organization of the future congress, but also should have been a springboard for launching a scientific project focused on the Mediterranean region and whose re- sults had to be presented at the congress. st During the 31 IGCin Riode Janeiro,after the designation of Florence bythe lUGS nd Council as the venue for the 32 IGC,the Mediterranean Consortium was set up. In its full configuration, the Consortium was an association of thirty-one Mediterra- nean and nearbycountries. Alongwith Italy,they are:Albania,Algeria,Austria, Bosnia- Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Egypt, France, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Libya,Macedonia, Malta,Morocco,Palestine, Romania, Saudi Arabia, Serbia and Montenegro, Slovakia,Slovenia,Spain, Switzerland, Syria,Tunisia, and Turkey. Each member country nominated a National Representative who served as a liai- son between his/her national geological community and the IGCOrganizing Commit- tee.

Showing marine ecologists, oceanographers and marine engineers how ocean waters interact with, influence and constrain life in the ocean, this package makes the physical processes intelligible to biologists with a modicum of mathematics. Part I of the book examines classical fluid mechanics such as laminar and turbulent flow, boundary layers, and forces induced by flow. Part II deals with large-scale flows, such as waves, large ocean currents, and tides, which are beyond the scope of classic fluid mechanics. In Part III, the link between hydrodynamics of ocean flows and marine ecology is demonstrated by examples of well-established phenomena and processes. The CD-ROM contains 12 ready-to-use computer programs on the calculation, representation and simulation of various processes.

Large-scale winds and currents tend to balance Coriolis and pressure gradient forces. The time evolution of these winds and currents is the subject of the quasi-geostrophic theory. Chapter 1 presents concepts and equations of classical inertial fluid mechanics. Chapter 2 deals with the equations of thermodynamics that close the governing equations of the fluids. Then, the motion is reformulated in a uniformly rotating reference frame. Chapter 3 deals with the shallow-water model and the homogeneous model of wind-driven circulation. The chapter also describes a classical application of the Ekman layer to the atmosphere. Chapter 4 considers the two-layer model, as an introduction to baroclinic flows, together with the concept of available potential energy. Chapter 5 takes into account continuously stratified flows in the ocean and in the atmosphere.

Against the backdrop of the environmental setting of the subequatorial NE Pacific abyssal plain, the book will characterise the meiobenthos as an ecological category in the deep sea and introduce research lines meiobenthic studies are applied to, including environmental assessments of human-induced disturbance of the deep seafloor. It will proceed to present an overview of the current knowledge on the meiobenthos of the area of concern and will discuss general considerations regarding the use of meiobenthos as indicator of seafloor disturbance. It will address the question of deep-sea mineral resources development versus benthic communities and will present an overview of field studies ("experiments") aimed at assessing the magnitude of potential impact associated with seafloor resources development (polymetallic nodule mining in particular) in the Pacific.

In 2005 the CoastGIS symposium and exhibition was once again held in Aberdeen, Scotland, in the UK, the second time that we have had the privilege host this international event in the city of Aberdeen. This was the 6th International S- posium Computer Mapping and GIS for Coastal Zone Management, a collabo- tion between the International Cartographic Association's (ICA) Commission on Marine Cartography, and the International Geographical Union's (IGU) Comm- sion on Coastal Systems. The theme for 2005 was: De ning and Building a Marine and Coastal Spatial Data Infrastructure. As a major coastal event, the CoastGIS series of conferences always attracts an international audience of coastal researchers, managers, and pr- titioners who use one or more of the geospatial technologies (e. g. GIS, GPS, digital mapping, remote sensing, databases, and the Internet) in their work. The CoastGIS series is fundamentally an international event which over the years has gained a strong following attracting delegates from around the globe. Hosted by the University of Aberdeen - at the Aberdeen Exhibition and Conference Centre (AECC) - once again CoastGIS 2005 provided an opportunity to communicate the results of a wide range of innovative scienti c research into coastal and marine applications of the geospatial technologies, including remote sensing, Geograp- cal Information Systems (GIS), Global Positioning Systems (GPS), databases, data models, the Internet and online mapping systems.

As we discover more about the role of the ocean in global changes and identify the effects of global change on the ocean, understanding its chemical composition and processes becomes increasingly paramount. However, understanding these processes requires a wide range of measurements in the vast ocean, from the sea surface to deep-ocean trenches, from the tropics to the poles. Practical Guidelines for the Analysis of Seawater provides a common analytical basis for generating quality-assured and reliable data on chemical parameters in the ocean. A source of practical know-how, the book covers sampling and storage, analytical methodology, and guidelines and procedures for quality assurance. It presents analytical methods with the step-by-step procedures that help practitioners implement these methods successfully into the laboratory, making them instantly applicable without consulting further literature. The book also contains essential information for developing or improving quality control and quality assurance programs in the laboratory. It includes the availability and measurement of standard reference materials, blank estimation and correction, control of recoveries, and statistical evaluation of quality assurance data. Analytical chemistry is a very active and fast moving area. Despite the development of innovative new analytical techniques for chemical trace element research, obtaining reliable data at ultra-trace levels remains a formidable challenge. A complete and practical guide, this book delineates proven methods that consistently yield reproducible data in routine work.

This book contains the results of a 9 year (1995-2004) investigation of the Canary Islands Exclusive Economic Zone, using state of the art technology. The coverage includes a multibeam survey demonstrating the magnitude of catastrophic failures of the Canary Islands; a comparison of the morphology of the Canary Islands with Hawaii; evaluation of hydrothermal activity associated with Mesozoic salt diapirs; and many more articles.