This first volume in the treatise on the Physics of Lakes deals with the formulation of the mathematical and physical background. A large number of lakes on Earth are described, presenting their morphology as well as the causes of their response to the driving environment. Because the physics of lakes cannot be described without the language used in mathematics, these subjects are introduced first by using the simplest approach and with utmost care, assuming only a limited college knowledge of classical Newtonian physics, and continues with increasing complexity and elegance, starting with the fundamental equations of Lake Hydrodynamics in the form of 'primitive equations' and leading to a detailed treatment of angular momentum and vorticity. Following the presentation of these fundamentals turbulence modeling is introduced with Reynolds, Favre and other non-ergodic filters. The derivation of averaged field equations is presented with different closure schemes, including the k- model for a Boussinesq fluid and early anisotropic closure schemes. This is followed by expositions of surface gravity waves without rotation and an analysis of the role played by the distribution of mass within water bodies on the Earth, leading to a study of internal waves. The vertical structure of wind-induced currents in homogeneous and stratified waters and the Ekman theory and some of its extensions close this first volume of Physics of Lakes. The last chapter collects formulas for the phenomenological coefficients of water.

It is now nine years since the first edition appeared and much has changed in marine science during that time. For example, satellites are now routinely used in remote sensing of the ocean surface and hydrothermal vents at sea noor spreading centres have been extensively researched. The second edition has been considerably expanded and reorganised, and many new figures and tables have been included. Every chapter has been carefully updated and many have been rewritten. A new chapter on man's use of the oceans has been included to cover satellites and position fixing, renewable energy sources in the sea, seabed minerals, oil and gas, pollution and maritime law. In this edition we have also referred to a number of original references and review articles so that readers can find their way into the literature more easily. As in the first edition, PSM has been mainly responsible for the text and HC for the illustrations, although each has responded to advice from the other and also from many colleagues. In this context readers should note that the illustrations form an integral and major part of the book. The text will almost certainly be too concise for many readers if they do not study the illustrations carefully at the same time. The book has been written as an introductory text for students, although it can serve anyone who is beginning a study of the sea.

While various volumes havepreviously been de- bable, answer to this question lies in the obser- vation that while whitecaps are some of the voted to such topics as droplets and bubbles, it is our conceit that this is the first volume dedi- most apparent features associated with high sea cated to the description of the phenomenon states, they have also pro\'ed to be someofthe of oceanic whitecapping, and to a considera- most difficult objects to measure and describe tion of the role these whitecapsplay in satellite quantitatively, and while scientists as a group marine remote sensing, in sea-salt aerosol gene- may like to tackle difficult problems, we ration, and in a broad range ofother sea surface should not be accused ofundue modesty when processes. This observation, reOecting in part we observe that as a group we also have a finite the relatively modest attention paid until re- tolerance for frustration and ahuman,perhaps cently by the scientific community to white- aesthetic, prejudice in favour ofnatural pheno- caps, is noteworthy when one considers that mena that are amcnable to detailed description. collectively whitecaps are to thegeneral public It is appropriate to note that Professor Wood- one of the most striking features of the sea- cock, to whom this volume is dedicated, ap- scape.

The. Advanced Research Inst i tute (ARI) on Dynamic Processes in the Chemistry of the Upper OCean had its origins in discussions by the NATO Special Programme Panel on Marine Sciences during 1978 when a wide range of topics for future ARIs was being considered. What was then envisaged was a workshop on chemical aspects of the oceanic mixed layer, at which consider ation would be given to the inputs, cycling and removal of material, and the problems involved in the quantitative assessment of fluxes. It was realised that any attempt to model chemical processes would need the active collaboration of workers from other fields, especially physical oceano graphers concerned with air-sea interaction and turbulence, and biological oceano raphers with expertise in primary productivity and the cycling of particulate and dissolved organic material. As plans for the ARI developed further a somewhat different emphasis emerged, focused on the question as to how chemists should set about observing an environment as variable and dynamic as the upper ocean and selecting the appropriate scales for the framework of measurements to study a particular process, especially in the light of current knowledge of physical processes of transport and mixing. It was plain that the capabil ity of physical oceanographic methods to resolve differences on small spatial and temporal scales is considerably ahead of the capabilities of biologists and chemists who rely upon discrete sampling and complex lab oratory manipulations in order to obtain most of their data."

Modern researchers in plate tectonics may be concerned with the analysis of distributed deformation across diffuse plate boundaries and triple junction zones. This book extends classic methods of kinematic analysis first developed in the 1960s to the more general scenarios of diffuse deformation zones between plates. The analytic methods presented specifically target the non-rigid deformation implied by unstable triple junction configurations. These methods are then applied to the tectonic evolution of western Caribbean region which provides new ways to test and challenge the established Pacific model of Caribbean tectonics. Possible advantages of the new Pirate model of Caribbean tectonics are discussed in terms of paleo-geography and paleo-ocean connections, as well as mineral and hydrocarbon potential and seismic risks across the region.

The phenomenon of sound transmissions through marine sediments is of extreme interest to both the United States civilian and Navy research communities. Both communities have conducted research within the field of this phenomenon approaching it from different perspectives. The academic research community has approached it as a technique for studying sedimentary and crustal structures of the ocean basins. The Navy research community has approached it as an additional variable in the predictability of sound trans mission through oceanic waters. In order to join these diverse talents, with the principal aim of bringing into sharp focus the state-of-the-science in the problems relating to the behavior of sound in marine sediments, the Office of Naval Research organized and sponsored an invited symposium on this subject. The papers published in this volume are the results of this symposium and mark the frontiers in the state-of-the-art. The symposia series were based on five research areas identified by ONR as being particularly suitable for critical review and for the appraisal of future research trends. These areas include: 1. Physics of Sound in Marine Sediments, 2. Physical and Engineering Properties of Deep-Sea Sediments, 3. The Role of Bottom Currents in Sea Floor Geological Processes, 4. Nephelometry and the Optical Properties of the Ocean I'laters, S. Natural Gases in Marine Sediments and Their Mode of Distribution. These five areas also form some of the research priorities of the ONR program in Marine Geology and Geophysics."

Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion, designing and building structures, designing and operating ships, providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few examples of projects for which extensive information about wave conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in volving coastal processes and the development of better wave prediction models, also require wave condition information. How ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States have not been adequately determined. The main categories of available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which may provide currently needed data."

The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park is 344 400 square kilometres in size and is home to one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. This comprehensive guide describes the organisms and ecosystems of the Great Barrier Reef, as well as the biological, chemical and physical processes that influence them. Contemporary pressing issues such as climate change, coral bleaching, coral disease and the challenges of coral reef fisheries are also discussed.

In addition, the book includes a field guide that will help people to identify the common animals and plants on the reef, then to delve into the book to learn more about the roles the biota play.

Beautifully illustrated and with contributions from thirty-three international experts, The Great Barrier Reef is a must-read for the interested reef tourist, student, researcher and manager. While it has an Australian focus, it can equally be used as a baseline text for most Indo-Pacific coral reefs.

"Data Analysis Methods in Physical Oceanography, Third Edition" is a practical reference to established and modern data analysis techniques in earth and ocean sciences. Its five major sections address data acquisition and recording, data processing and presentation, statistical methods and error handling, analysis of spatial data fields, and time series analysis methods. The revised "Third Edition" updates the instrumentation used to collect and analyze physical oceanic data and adds new techniques including Kalman Filtering. Additionally, the sections covering spectral, wavelet, and harmonic analysis techniques are completely revised since these techniques have attracted significant attention over the past decade as more accurate and efficient data gathering and analysis methods.
Completely updated and revised to reflect new filtering techniques and major updating of the instrumentation used to collect and analyze dataCo-authored by scientists from academe and industry, both of whom have more than 30 years of experience in oceanographic research and field workSignificant revision of sections covering spectral, wavelet, and harmonic analysis techniquesExamples address typical data analysis problems yet provide the reader with formulaic recipes for working with their own dataSignificant expansion to 350 figures, illustrations, diagrams and photos"

Shear waves and closely related interface waves (Rayleigh, Stoneley and Scholte) play an important role in many areas of engineering, geophysics and underwater acoustics. In some cases interest is focused on large-amplitude waves of low frequency such as those associ ated with earthquakes and nuclear explosions; in other cases low amplitude waves, which have often travelled great distances through the sediment, are of interest. Both low and high frequency shear and interface waves are often used for seafloor probing and sediment characterization. As a result of the wide spectrum of different interests, different disciplines have developed lines of research and a literature particularly suited to their own problems. For example water-column acousticians view the seafloor sediment as the lower boundary of their domain and are interested in shear and interface waves in the near bottom sediments mainly from the standpoint of how they influence absorption and reflection at this boundary. On the other hand, geophysicists seeking deep oil deposits are interested in the maximum penetration into the sediments and the tell-tale characteristics of the seismic waves that have encountered potential oil or gas bearing strata. In another area, geotechnical engineers use shear and interface waves to study soil properties necessary for the design and the siting of seafloor structures.

The continental shelf seas have an importance which is out of proportion to the rela tively small fraction of the area of the global ocean which they occupy. These shallow seas play an important role as the high energy boundary zones of the deep ocean where much of the ocean's tidal and wave energies are dissipated. They are highly productive biologically and are responsible for most of the world's fishery production. In many cases, they are also sources of economically important resources, notably hydrocarbons and they are frequently important as thorough fares for merchant shipping. Because they are the regions of the ocean closest to our centres of population and industrial activity, they have been the first to feel the impact of the increasing pressures imposed by large scale waste disposal into the ocean. The North Sea is an archetypal representative of such seas: we need to be able to understand its processes and predict them if we are to achieve a degree of rational management in the future, as the environmental threats increase. The understanding required extends through a wide range of processes that operate in the shelf seas from the fundamental physics to the chemistry and biology of the water column and the seabed sediments. These processes, and the interactions between them, cut across the traditional discipline boundaries within marine science and require a substantial inter disciplinary effort for their effective study.

Recent decades have seen a degradation of the environmental quality in semi-enclosed seas, which are particularly sensitive to population pressures due to their naturally low flushing rates related to their geometry. The North Sea, Baltic Sea and the Black Sea are amongst the most seriously threatened seas in the Euro-Asian region. Each semi-enclosed sea has a distinct pattern of circulation, transport, mixing, associated with the particular geometry, topography, boundary processes, interior stratification, atmospheric forcing, ice fonnation, straits / sill controls, and the specific inputs of freshwater, nutrients and pollutants. The workshop investigated the distinctive physical and ecological characteristics of the three seas in a comparative manner, in order to identify the types of driving forces and dynamic controls operating on productivity, nutrient cycling, physical transport and mixing mechanisms. A comparative study of these controlling mechanisms would allow us to better understand ecosystem sensitivity in these different environments. The workshop presentations highlighted the complexity of the semi-enclosed seas related to the interaction amongst the physical, chemical and biological fields, and differences in time and space scales in each of the systems. Further, a strong climate signal exists in these systems, manifest in the interannual, interdecadal and longer term variability. Part of the variability appears connected with background climatic variability.

Optical remote sensing is of invaluable help in understanding the marine environment and its biogeochemical and physical processes. The Coastal Zone Color Scanner (CZCS), which operated on board the Nimbus-7 satellite from late 1978 to early 1986, has been the main source of ocean colour data. Much work has been devoted to CZCS data processing and analysis techniques throughout the 1980s. After a decade of experience, the Productivity of the Global Ocean (PGO) Activity - which was established in the framework of the International Space Year 1992 (ISY '92) by SAFISY, the Space Agency Forum of ISY - sponsored a workshop aimed at providing a reference in ocean colour science and at promoting the full exploitation of the CZCS historical data in the field of biological oceanography. The present volume comprises a series of state-of-the-art contributions on theory, applications and future perspectives of ocean colour. After an introduction on the historical perspective of ocean colour, a number of articles are devoted to the CZCS theoretical background, on radiative transfer and in-water topics, as well as on calibration, atmospheric correction and pigment concentration retrieval algorithms developed for the CZCS. Further, a review is given of major applications of CZCS data around the world, carried out in the past decade. The following part of the book is centered on the application of ocean colour to the assessment of marine biological information, with particular regard to plankton biomass, primary productivity and the coupling of physical/biological models. The links between global oceanic production and climate dynamics are also addressed. Finally, the last section is devoted to future approaches and goals of ocean colour science, and to planned sensors and systems. The book is required reading for those involved in ocean colour and related disciplines, providing an overview of the current status in this field as well as stimulating the debate on new ideas and developments for upcoming ocean colour missions.

The book presents current research into the effect that environmental conditions have on volcanic eruptions and the subsequent emplacement of volcanic products. This is accomplished through a series of chapters that investigate specific environments - both terrestrial and extraterrestrial - and the expression of volcanic materials found within those settings. Current state-of-the-art numerical, analytical and computer models are used in most chapters to provide robust, quantitative insights into how volcanoes behave in different environmental settings. Readership: Upper level undergraduates and new graduates. The book is primarily a presentation of research results rather than a tutorial for the general public. Textbook or supplementary reading for courses in volcanology or comparative planetology at college/university level.

Thisvolumecontainsacollectionofpapersbyinternationalexpertsingeoph- ical ?uid dynamics, based upon presentations at a colloquium held in memory of Pedro Ripa on the ?rst anniversary of his untimely death. They review or present recent developments in hydrodynamic stability theory, Hamiltonian ?uid mechanics, balanceddynamics, waves, vortices, generaloceanographyand the physical oceanography of the Gulf ofCalifornia; all of them subjects in which Professor Ripamadeimportant contributions. His work, but also his friendly spiritandkindnesswerehighly regardedandappreciatedby colleagues and students alike around the world. This book is a tribute to his scienti?c legacy and constitutes a valuable reference for researchers and graduate s- dents interested in geophysical and general ?uid mechanics. Earlyin his career asa physicaloceanographer, Pedro Ripa made two la- mark contributions to geophysical ?uid dynamics. In 1981, he showed that the conservation of the potential vorticity is related to the invariance of the eq- tions of motion under the symmetry transformationsof the labels that identify the ?uid particles. That is, potential vorticity conservation is a consequence, via Noether's theorem, of the particle re-labelling symmetry. Two years later he published a paper entitled "General stability conditions for zonal ?ows in a one-layer model on the beta-plane or the sphere," where he established nec- sary conditions for stability in the shallow water equations, nowadays known as "Ripa's Theorem. " This is one of the very few Arnol'd-like stability con- tions that goes beyond two-dimensional or quasi-geostrophic ?ow, and stands alongside other famous stability criteria in making the foundations of the ?eld.

Carbon dioxide and other `greenhouse' gases are increasing in the atmosphere due to the burning of fossil fuels, the destruction of rain forests, etc., leading to predictions of a gradual global warming which will perturb the global biosphere. An important process which counters this trend toward potential climate change is the removal of carbon dioxide from the surface ocean by photosynthesis. This process packages carbon in phytoplankton which enter the food chain or sink into the deep sea. Their ultimate fate is a `rain' of organic debris out of the surface-mixed layer of the ocean. On a global scale, the mechanisms and overall rate of this process are poorly known. The authors of the 25 papers in this volume present their state-of-the-art approaches to quantifying the mechanisms by which the `rain' of biogenic debris nourishes deep ocean life. Prominent deep sea ecologists, geochemists and modelers address relationships between data and models of carbon fluxes and food chains in the deep ocean. An attempt is made to estimate the fate of carbon in the deep sea on a global scale by summing up the utilization of organic matter among all the populations of the abyssal biosphere. Comparisons are made between these ecological approaches and estimates of geochemical fluxes based on sediment trapping, one-dimensional geochemical models and horizontal (physical) input from continental margins. Planning interdisciplinary enterprises between geochemists and ecologists, including new field programs, are summarized in the final chapter. The summary includes a list of the important gaps in understanding which must be addressed before the role of the deep-sea biota in global-scale processes can be put in perspective.

This symposium continues a long tradition for IUGGjIUTAM symposia going back to "Fundamental Problems in Thrbulence and their Relation to Geophysics" Marseille, 1961. The five topics that were emphasized were: turbulence modeling, statistics of small scales and coherent structures, con vective turbulence, stratified turbulence, and historical developments. The objective was to consider the ubiquitous nature of turbulence in a variety of geophysical problems and related flows. Some history of the contribu tions of NCAR and its alumni were discussed, including those of Jackson R Herring, who has been a central figure at NCAR since 1972. To the original topics we added rotation, which appeared in many places. This includes rotating stratified turbulence, rotating convective turbulence, horizontal rotation that appears in flows over terrain and the role of small scale vorticity in many flows. These complicated flows have recently begun to be simulated by several groups from around the world and this meeting provided them with an excellent forum for exchanging results, plus inter actions with those doing more fundamental work on rotating stratified and convective flows. New work on double diffusive convection was given in two presentations. The history of Large Eddy Simulations was presented and several new approaches to this field were given. This meeting also spawned some interesting interactions between observational side and how to inter pret the observations with modeling and simulations around the theme of particle dispersion in these flows.

Lake Mendota has often been called "the most studied lake in the world. " Beginning in the "classic" period of limnology in the late 19th century and continuing through the present time, this lake has been the subject of a wide variety of studies. Although many of these studies have been published in accessible journals, a significant number have appeared in local monographs and reports, ephemeral documents, or poorly distributed journals. To date, there has been no attempt at a synthetic treatment ofthe vast amount of work that has been published. One intent of the present book is to present a com prehensive compilation of the major early studies on Lake Mendota and to examine how they impinge on important present-day biological questions. In addition, this book presents a summary of field and laboratory work carried out in my own laboratory over a period of about 6 years and shows where correlations with earlier work exist. The book should be ofinterest to limnologists desiring a ready reference to data and published papers on this important lake, to biogeochemists, ocean ographers, and low-temperature geochemists interested in lakes as model sys tems for global processes, and to lake managers interested in understanding short-term and long-term changes in lake systems. Although the major thrust ofthe present book is ecologicaland environmental, sufficient background has been presented on other aspects ofLake Mendota's limnology so that the book should also be useful to nonbiologists."

Fifteen years ago NATO organised a conference entitled 'Ocean Acoustic Modelling'. Many of its participants were again present at this variability workshop. One such participant. in concluding his 1975 paper, quoted the following from a 1972 literature survey: ' ... history presents a sad lack of communications between acousticians and oceanographers' Have we done any better in the last 15 years? We believe so, but only moderately. There is still a massive underdeveloped potential for acousticians and oceanographers to make significant progress together. Currently, the two camps talk together insufficiently even to avoid simple misun derstandings. such as those in Table 1. Table 1 Ocsanographic and acoustic jargon (from an idea by Pol/ardi Jargon Oceanographic use Acoustic use dbordB decibar (depth in m) decibel (energy level) PE primitive equations parabolic equations convergence zone converging currents converging rays (downwelling water) (high energy density) front thermohaline front wave, ray or time front speed water current speed sound propagation speed 1 The list goes on.

The Arctic sea ice is characterized by profound changes caused by surface melting processes and the formation of melt ponds in summer. Melt ponds contribute to the ice-albedo feedback as they reduce the surface albedo of sea ice, and hence accelerate the decay of Arctic sea ice. To quantify the melting of the entire Arctic sea ice, satellite based observations are necessary. Due to different spectral properties of snow, ice, and water, theoretically, multi-spectral optical sensors are necessary for the analysis of these distinct surface types. This study demonstrates the potential of optical sensors to detect melt ponds on Arctic sea ice. For the first time, an Arctic-wide, multi-annual melt pond data set for the years 2000-2011 has been created and analyzed.

Sedimentary coasts with their unique forms of life and productive ecosystems are one of the most threatened parts of the biosphere.
This volume analyzes and compares ecological structures and processes at sandy beaches, tidal mudflats and in shallow coastal waters all around the world. Analyses of local processes are paired with comparisons between distant shores, across latitudinal gradients or between separate biogeographic provinces. Emphasis is given to suspension feeders in coastal mud and sand, to biogenic stabilizations and disturbances in coastal sediments, to seagrass beds and faunal assemblages across latitudes and oceans, to recovery dynamics in benthic communities, shorebird predation, and to experimental approaches to the biota of sedimentary shores.

Paleoceanographic proxies provide infonnation for reconstructions of the past, including climate changes, global and regional oceanography, and the cycles of biochemical components in the ocean. These prox ies are measurable descriptors for desired but unobservable environmental variables such as tempera ture, salinity, primary productivity, nutrient content, or surface-water carbon dioxide concentrations. The proxies are employed in a manner analogous to oceanographic methods. The water masses are first characterized according to their specific physical and chemical properties, and then related to particular assemblages of certain organisms or to particular element or isotope distributions. We have a long-standing series of proven proxies available. Marine microfossil assemblages, for instance, are employed to reconstruct surface-water temperatures. The calcareous shells of planktonic and benthic microorgan isms contain a wealth of paleoceanographic information in their isotopic and elemental compositions. Stable oxygen isotope measurements are used to detennine ice volume, and MglCa ratios are related to water temperatures, to cite a few examples. Organic material may also provide valuable infonnation, e. g. , about past productivity conditions. Studying the stable carbon isotope composition of bulk organic matter or individual marine organic components may provide a measure of past surface-water CO 2 conditions within the bounds of certain assumptions. Within the scope of paleoceanographic investigations, the existing proxies are continuously evolving and improving, while new proxies are being studied and developed. The methodology is improved by analysis of samples from the water column and surface sediments, and through laboratory experiments.

Oceanographic discontinuities (e. g. frontal systems, upwelling areas, ice edges) are often areas of enhanced biological productivity. Considerable research on the physics and biology of the physical boundaries defining these discontinues has been accomplished (see [I D. The interface between water and sediment is the largest physical boundary in the ocean, but has not received a proportionate degree of attention. The purpose of the Nato Advanced Research Workshop (ARW) was to focus on soft-sediment systems by identifying deficiencies in our knowledge of these systems and defining key issues in the management of coastal sedimentary habitats. Marine sediments play important roles in the marine ecosystem and the biosphere. They provide food and habitat for many marine organisms, some of which are commercially important. More importantly from a global perspective, marine sediments also provide "ecosystem goods and services" [2J. Organic matter from primary production in the water column and contaminants scavenged by particles accumulate in sediments where their fate is determined by sediment processes such as bioturbation and biogeochemical cycling. Nutrients are regenerated and contaminants degraded in sediments. Under some conditions, carbon accumulates in coastal and shelf sediments and may by removed from the carbon cycle for millions of years, having a potentially significant impact on global climate change. Sediments also protect coasts. The economic value of services provided by coastal areas has recently been estimated to be on the order of $12,568 9 10 y" [3J, far in excess of the global GNP.