The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be
able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the
environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the
atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours,
coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the
specific requirements of these various fields differ
considerably.
This book attempts to summarise the current state of this
knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work.
It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic
engineering view of requiring a short term result and the
scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to
provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved
as well as practical predictive tools.
General
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