Another transatlantic work of robust and practical charm - like
Jane Grigson's Vegetable Book (1979), organized into some 45
sections each devoted to an individual fruit or cluster of near
cousins (e.g., oranges, tangerines, and kumquats). Matters are
amiably parceled out among practical information; recipes (from
sources as diverse as Elizabeth David, the Scottish Tourist Board,
and a "Sine-Vietnamese" cookbook bought "near the station in
Tours"); and odd bits of lore (a snatch of Browning on an Italian
melonpeddler, Herrick on the cherries growing "where Julia's lips
do smile"). The recipes naturally run strongly to desserts; Grigson
does not go in for today's outre fruit-and-meat combinations. But
she does draw interestingly on the use of fruit for savory dishes
in, for example, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine (Italian
orange and olive salad; lamb "polo" - i.e., pilaf - with raisins
and dried apricots; Persian faisinjan of duck stewed with
pomegranate juice); and she comes up with some pleasantly offbeat
improvisations - like ossi buchi with gooseberries. The dessert
recipes should charm almost anyone but fanciers of gooey
extravaganzas: apple dumplings, pear and black currant tart, citrus
sorbets, paskha with glazed pineapple, prunes stuffed with walnuts.
As in Jane Grigson's Vegetable Book, the recipes are printed with
triple-system measurements (metric, UK, US), and there is a
moderately useful but far from deft glossary of English culinary
terms (this one by Judith Hill). The book itself, however,
transcends oddities of communication. (Kirkus Reviews)
Companion to her prize-winning Vegetable Book, Jane Grigson's alphabetical guide to fruit advises us on selecting the finest fruits in season, cooking them in sweet or savoury dishes, serving them as desserts or as treats on their own. From apple to water-melon, including the familiar and the exotic, Jane Grigson's Fruit Book is a work to treasure.
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