Sir Leslie Stephen (November 28, 1832-February 22, 1904) was an
English author, critic, and mountaineer, and the father of Virginia
Woolf and Vanessa Bell. Literary career: While at Cambridge,
Stephen became an Anglican clergyman. In 1865, having renounced his
religious beliefs, and after a visit to the United States two years
earlier, where he had formed lasting friendships with Oliver
Wendell Holmes, Jr., James Russell Lowell, and Charles Eliot
Norton, he settled in London and became a journalist, eventually
editing the Cornhill Magazine in 1871, where R. L. Stevenson,
Thomas Hardy, W. E. Norris, Henry James, and James Payne figured
among his contributors. In his spare time, he participated in
athletics and mountaineering. He was already known as a climber, as
a contributor to Peaks, Passes and Glaciers (1862), and as one of
the earliest presidents of the Alpine Club, when in 1871, in
commemoration of his own first ascents in the Alps, he published
The Playground of Europe, which immediately became a mountaineering
classic, drawing - together with Whymper's Scrambles Amongst the
Alps - successive generations of its readers to the Alps.
Mountaineering: Stephen was one of the most prominent figures in
the golden age of alpinism (the period between Wills's ascent of
the Wetterhorn in 1854 and Whymper's ascent of the Matterhorn in
1865), during which many major alpine peaks saw their first
ascents. Joining the Alpine Club in 1857, Stephen made the first
ascent, with various other climbers and usually in the company of
his favorite Swiss guide Melchior Anderegg, of the following peaks:
Wildstrubel, Bietschhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Alphubel, Blemlisalphorn,
Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn, and Mont Mallet.
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