Over 350 color photographs depict a magnificent array of fashion hats from the early 19th century to present day, including the earliest known American straw bonnet. The hats are presented chronologically according to primary materials; straw, felt, horsehair, feathers, silk, velvet, and flowers. Trends in hat designs, Hollywood style, Stetson hats, tips on collecting, and contemporary millinery are also discussed. The captions include specific details about each hat, as well as labels and information about the milliners. This useful reference includes a glossary, a detailed price reference, and index with photographs of designer labels. This beautiful book will be cherished by collectors, dealers, fashion connoisseurs, and everyone who simply loves hats!

'Riello and McNeil's new collection of essays represents an immense and impressive project' Choice

'Now, the key contributions from nearly every expert in the field are assembled in one fascinating book. This kaleidoscopic and informative volume ranges impressively across conventional boundaries of chronology, geography, and discipline.' Glenn Adamson, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK

'This book is indispensable for anyone interested in fashion. History has never been more alive than in the pages of this Reader.' Patrizia Calefato, University of Bari, Italy

The Fashion History Reader is an innovative work that provides a broad introduction to the complex literature in the fields of fashion studies, and dress and fashion history. Twenty-three chapters and over forty shorter Snapshot texts cover a wide range of topics and approaches within the history of fashion, ranging from object-based studies to theory-driven analyses. The book is divided into six parts, surveying some of the key themes in the history of fashion. Themes also move in and across time, providing a chronology to enable student learning:

• parts one to three cover the fifteenth to the eighteenth-century
• parts four and five cover the nineteenth-century to the contemporary (with particular attention given to non-European countries)
• part six provides a survey of the global setting and current globalized nature of fashion.

A comprehensive introduction by the editors contextualizes debates for students, synthesising past history and bringing them up-to-date through a discussion of globalization. Each section also includes a short, accessible introduction by the editors, placing each chapter within the wider, thematic treatment of fashion and its history, and an 'Annotated Guide to Further Reading' encourages students to enhance their learning independently.

The Fashion History Reader was awarded a prize for 'Best Edited Book' at the Art Association of Australia and New Zealand: Art Historians of Australasia, Annual General Meeting, December 2011.

A bumper edition of John Peacock's renowned costume drawings, charting the development of women's and men's clothing from the 1920s onwards. This beautifully illustrated, easy-reference volume features over 2,100 meticulous illustrations that record in fascinating detail the ways in which fashion has changed year by year, decade by decade, from the boyish silhouette of the 1920s right through to the structured `power dressing' of the 1980s. Day wear, evening dress, sports and leisure wear, accessories, underwear and wedding wear are all portrayed, accompanied by complete descriptions of colour, cut, necklines, lapels, sleeves, pockets, fastening, buttons and belts. The reference section includes a chart that summarizes the evolution of fashion and garment-shapes through the decades, as well as biographies of the outstanding designers of each era. The Complete Fashion Sourcebook will be indispensable to all fashion enthusiasts, historians and collectors, and will be an invaluable sourcebook for any designer or student working in the performing arts.

The shoes of Manolo Blahnik have been called magical totems of success and femininity (The Guardian) and boast a cult following of devotees the world over. With their sleek elegance and distinctive fashion edge, Manolos are at once fascinating and timeless, their design a beautiful combination of chic, playfulness, and flair. This book explores the creativity and influences of this modern master through an alphabetical chronicle of the designer s loves and inspiration. Blahnik s alphabet gives insight into the art and craftsmanship of shoemaking and includes whimsical musings on his relationships with figures such as Anna Piaggi, Loulou de la Falaise, and Diana Vreeland; the inspiration he draws from works by Goya, Zurbaran, Picasso, Barbara Hepworth, and Zaha Hadid; and his admiration for fellow designers such as Azzedine Alaia, Balenciaga, and Yves Saint Laurent. These highly personal anecdotes drawn from conversations between Blahnik and the author and accompanied by original sketches and new photography offer the reader a rare opportunity to learn the vision behind the shoes as told by a fashion legend. The book which will accompany a traveling global exhibition is introduced by an illustrated essay, which describes the designer s illustrious forty-five-year career in the fashion industry.

A "Washington Post Book World" Best Book of the Year
When her carriage first crossed over from her native Austria into France, fourteen-year-old Marie Antoinette was taken out, stripped naked before an entourage, and dressed in French attire to please the court of her new king. For a short while, the young girl played the part.
But by the time she took the throne, everything had changed. In "Queen of Fashion, " Caroline Weber tells of the radical restyling that transformed the young queen into an icon and shaped the future of the nation. With her riding gear, her white furs, her pouf hairstyles, and her intricate ballroom disguises, Marie Antoinette came to embody--gloriously and tragically--all the extravagance of the monarchy.

Prerevolutionary Russia was renowned for the glam- orous and luxurious lifestyles of the nobility, with their opulent palaces and glittering social life. Now, this lavish volume reveals the incredible clothing they wore, from everyday dress and ceremonial attire (traditional holidays outfits and military uniforms) to dress for special occasions, including elaborate evening wear for theater and musical events and fancy masquerade balls. Celebrated for luxurious materials and impeccable craftsmanship, the dress of the Russian nobility was haute couture at its finest. With beautiful photog- raphy and details highlighting the hand-spun silks and lace and jeweled embroideries, Russian Splendor highlights the glamour of this gilded age and offers a fascinating window into a vanished world. Essays by Hermitage Museum curators, alongside historic Russian paintings and photographs, place the clothing in a historical context, revealing the rich cultural layers and artistic influences of czarist Russia.

The everyday clothes of American consumers of the early 1980s are shown in hundreds of pictures that portray the Preppie era when dress-for-success clothing helped build a corporate culture. Explore the suggestive lingerie, slinky dresses, and tight jeans women wore on the town and the safari and rodeo styles men wore to disco dances. Colorful sweatsuits became a uniform of comfort. This book is indispensible for fashion historians and collectors of fashions of the 20th century.

Beginning with Alexander McQueen's infamous attempt to live stream his 2009 Plato's Atlantis collection on SHOWStudio, this book traces how digital and social media have disrupted social structures within the field of fashion, and transformed the way it is communicated and consumed. Analysing key case studies, from Chanel, Givenchy, Yeezy and Opening Cermony to interactive social media and 'see now buy now' campaigns from Burberry, Topshop and Tommy Hilfiger, The Fashion Show Goes Live analyses the mode and impact of fashion shows' transmission. Through the rise of experimental film, fashion shows tailored for media transmission and the use of live streaming and social media to render shows 'immediate' to consumers, fashion weeks - and fashion shows - have become not just trend barometers but material sites that demonstrate media's effects. Rebecca Halliday evaluates the performativity of consumer relations to such live streams and other mediatized content. In linking these relations back to fashion show footage, she demonstrates that although intended to communicate fashion to mass audiences, these practices also promote it as exclusive and aspirational. Despite democratized, international access to content, the shows themselves remain elite events; kindling new forms of consumer attention, interaction, immaterial labour and desire. Through the microcosm of the fashion show, The Fashion Show Goes Live asks broader socio-political questions about the effects of the fashion industry's mediatization, challenging the notion that new technology has fostered inclusivity.

Popular culture in the latter half of the twentieth century precipitated a decisive change in style and body image. Postwar film, television, radio shows, pulp fiction and comics placed heroic types firmly within public consciousness. This book concentrates on these heroic male types as they have evolved from the postwar era and their relationship to fashion to the present day. As well as demonstrating the role of male icons in contemporary society, this book's originality also lies in showing the many gender slippages that these icons help to effect or expose. It is by exploring the somewhat inviolate types accorded to contemporary masculinity that we see the very fragility of a stable or rounded male identity.

From workaday marigolds to hand-wear custom crafted for the Queen, gloves perform many functions - insulation from the cold, protection from injury, and even ceremonial roles. Gloves have been used since prehistoric times, but in Britain their use as formal and fashion items took off during Elizabeth I's reign, and played a surprisingly significant cultural role well into the nineteenth century. They were often given as precious gifts, used in coronation ceremonies, sent to indicate assent, or even to offer a formal challenge. This beautifully illustrated history, published in association with the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London, delves into the glove's place in history, offers detailed descriptions of their production in the artisanal workshop and on the factory floor, and also tells the fascinating story of the closely guarded privileges of the glove-makers' guilds.

Fashion Writing and Criticism provides students with the tools to critique fashion with skill and style. Explaining the history and theory of criticism, this innovative text demonstrates how the tradition of criticism has developed and how this knowledge can be applied to fashion, enabling students to acquire the methods and proper vocabulary to be active critics themselves. Integrating history and theory, this innovative book explains the development of fashion writing, the theoretical basis on which it sits, and how it might be improved and applied. Through concise snapshot case studies, top international scholars McNeil and Miller analyse fashion excerpts in relation to philosophical ideas and situate them within historical contexts. Case studies include classic examples of fashion writing, such as Diana Vreeland at Harper's Bazaar and Richard Martin on Karl Lagerfeld, as well as contemporary examples such as Suzy Menkes and the blogger Tavi. Accessibly written, Fashion Writing and Criticism enables readers to understand, assess and make value judgments about the fascinating and changeable field of fashion. It is an invaluable text for students and researchers alike, studying fashion, journalism, history and media studies.

The much-anticipated first book by photographer Kevin Amato, a leading influencer in fashion today Kevin Amato, a fashion insider whose influence is felt around the world, defines who and what is beautiful and fashionable today. Through his photography - evocative of the work of the generation of photographers before him, including Nan Goldin, Larry Clark, and Ryan McGinley - Amato celebrates the faces of the Bronx, where he discovers the majority of his subjects. He takes their pictures. He casts them in fashion shows and advertising campaigns. He calls them 'The Importants', the young people thriving against all odds and who together exemplify diversity and inclusivity. Amato documents a new world order that is as provocative as it is tender, and as disturbing as it is joyful.

This book is the first to explore style and spectacle in glam popular music performance from the 1970s to the present day, and from an international perspective. Focus is given to a number of representative artists, bands, and movements, as well as national, regional, and cultural contexts from around the globe. Approaching glam music performance and style broadly, and using the glam/glitter rock genre of the early 1970s as a foundation for case studies and comparisons, the volume engages with subjects that help in defining the glam phenomenon in its many manifestations and contexts. Glam rock, in its original, term-defining inception, had its birth in the UK in 1970/71, and featured at its forefront acts such as David Bowie, T. Rex, Slade, and Roxy Music. Termed "glitter rock" in the US, stateside artists included Alice Cooper, Suzi Quatro, The New York Dolls, and Kiss. In a global context, glam is represented in many other cultures, where the influences of early glam rock can be seen clearly. In this book, glam exists at the intersections of glam rock and other styles (e.g., punk, metal, disco, goth). Its performers are characterized by their flamboyant and theatrical appearance (clothes, costumes, makeup, hairstyles), they often challenge gender stereotypes and sexuality (androgyny), and they create spectacle in popular music performance, fandom, and fashion. The essays in this collection comprise theoretically-informed contributions that address the diversity of the world's popular music via artists, bands, and movements, with special attention given to the ways glam has been influential not only as a music genre, but also in fashion, design, and other visual culture.

Who says you can't be pious and fashionable? Throughout the Muslim world, women have found creative ways of expressing their personality through the way they dress. Headscarves can be modest or bold, while brand-name clothing and accessories are part of a multimillion-dollar ready-to-wear industry that caters to pious fashion from head to toe. In this lively snapshot, Liz Bucar takes us to Iran, Turkey, and Indonesia and finds a dynamic world of fashion, faith, and style. "Brings out both the sensuality and pleasure of sartorial experimentation." -Times Literary Supplement "I defy anyone not to be beguiled by [Bucar's] generous-hearted yet penetrating observation of pious fashion in Indonesia, Turkey and Iran... Bucar uses interviews with consumers, designers, retailers and journalists...to examine the presumptions that modest dressing can't be fashionable, and fashion can't be faithful." -Times Higher Education "Bucar disabuses readers of any preconceived ideas that women who adhere to an aesthetic of modesty are unfashionable or frumpy." -Robin Givhan, Washington Post "A smart, eye-opening guide to the creative sartorial practices of young Muslim women... Bucar's lively narrative illuminates fashion choices, moral aspirations, and social struggles that will unsettle those who prefer to stereotype than inform themselves about women's everyday lives in the fast-changing, diverse societies that constitute the Muslim world." -Lila Abu-Lughod, author of Do Muslim Women Need Saving?

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. The usual wide range of approaches to garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives. Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an examination of the life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the landmark Medieval English Embroidery. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors: Michelle L. Beer, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Valija Evalds, Christine Meek, Maureen C. Miller, Christopher J. Monk, Lisa Monnas, Rebecca Woodward Wendelken

Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Suit is an authoritative visual guide to the under-explored area of men's fashion across four centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history - as well as how menswear has varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their Chesterfield from their Ulster coat. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' menswear, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.

From yellow-face performance in the 19th century to Jackie Chan in the 21st, Chinese Looks examines articles of clothing and modes of adornment as a window on how American views of China have changed in the past 150 years. Sean Metzger provides a cultural history of three iconic objects in theatrical and cinematic performance: the queue, or man's hair braid; the woman's suit known as the qipao; and the Mao suit. Each object emerges at a pivotal moment in US-China relations, indexing shifts in the balance of power between the two nations. Metzger shows how aesthetics, gender, politics, economics, and race are interwoven and argues that close examination of particular forms of dress can help us think anew about gender and modernity.

Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Early 1950s focuses on wearable, collectible vintage clothing and accessories. The Sears catalogs provide the basis for a comprehensive evaluation of the fashions of this period. There is no guessing as to the dates of the clothing, and the descriptions are unsurpassed in terms of detail and accuracy. Vintage clothing from the early 1950s is extremely desirable to collectors, but it is increasingly difficult to find. Fashion designers look to the elegant styles of the period for inspiration. Collectors love the beautiful crafted handbags and the carefully tailored suits, jackets, and coats. Shoes have become very interesting to collectors in recent years, perhaps due to their comfortable styling and beautiful craftsmanship. This survey encompasses all aspects of the era's fashions, including: gowns, dresses, shirts, skirts, sportswear, accessories, nightware, underwear, coats, suits, and jackets. Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs: Early 1950s includes introductory remarks, helpful hints for collectors, descriptions from the catalog, and current values placed next to the original Sears' prices.

Retail Buying, Seventh Edition integrates math concepts throughout the text to guide students through typical buying tasks, from identifying potential customers, to creating a six-month merchandising plan, to developing sales forecasts. Updated with examples and trends from across the world, this book will keep readers informed on how the retailing industry is adapting to changes like an increased focus on sustainability, the growth of digital retailing, and impacts from the coronavirus pandemic. Practice problems and updated information tables further help students to analyze and interpret data across relevant subjects like global buying and sourcing, omnichannel retailing, and social media. New to this Edition: -Updated coverage of the coronavirus pandemic and the expanding usage of social media and mobile technologies -Increased emphasis on product sustainability and changing consumer behavior -New and updated Trendwatch and Snapshot features Instructor Resources -The Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, including sample syllabi, in-class activities, and teaching ideas -The Test Bank includes sample test questions for each chapter -PowerPoint (R) presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion STUDIO Features Include: -Study smarter with self-assessment quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary and basic retail math formulas -Practice your skills with downloadable Excel spreadsheets to complete the end-of-chapter Spreadsheet Skills exercises -Enhance your knowledge with printable worksheets featuring step-by-step solutions to common retail buying math problems -Watch videos related to chapter concepts

A vital sourcebook for information on clothing and textiles in the middle ages, containing many previously unprinted documents. Texts (with modern English translation) offering insights into the place of cloth and clothing in everyday life are presented here. Covering a wide range of genres, they include documents from the royal wardrobe accounts and petitions to king and Parliament, previously available only in manuscript form. The accounts detail royal expenditure on fabrics and garments, while the petitions demand the restoration of livery, for example, or protest about the needfor winter clothing for children who are wards of the king. In addition, the volume includes extracts from wills, inventories and rolls of livery, sumptuary laws, moral and satirical works condemning contemporary fashions, an OldEnglish epic, and English and French romances. The texts themselves are in Old and Middle English, Latin and Anglo-Norman French, with some of the documents switching between more than one of these languages. They are presented with introduction, glossary and detailed notes. Louise M. Sylvester is Reader in English Language at the University of Westminster; Mark Chambers is a Post-Doctoral Research Associate at Durham University; Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester.

Bias-cut Dressmaking is the best easy-to-follow guide to bias-cut clothes. It provides step-by-step instructions and diagrams for making over 40 items of clothing that are cut on the bias. The bias-cut technique is used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the bias or diagonal direction of the fabric. This allows the fabric to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. Bias-cut garments were an important feature of the designs of Madeleine Vionnet in the 1920s and 1930s but are now timeless.This classic text on the subject includes making skirts, dresses, trousers, eveningwear and even lingerie. You can make a halterneck evening dress, a cowl-necked shift dress, palazzo pants, bias-cut culottes, a cowl camisole, a strapless evening dress or a slightly flared bias skirt.The text is clearly written and laid out, making the beauty and the comfort of bias-cut clothing accessible to those not overly familiar with this type of dressmaking, including fashion students and amateur dressmakers.

Drawing on the collections of the V&A, Glam Rock narrates the story of glam and explores its impact on fashion, theatre and film. In the early 1970s, glam rock changed the face of popular culture in Britain and, against a backdrop of a nation racked by economical and social crises, its flamboyancy and theatricality provided an excuse for a party and an escapist dream for musicians and fans alike. British acts like David Bowie, Roxy Music, T. Rex and Mott the Hoople - together with American fellow-travellers including Lou Reed, Alice Cooper and Sparks - drew on the original blueprint of rock and roll, as well as a host of other traditions, from Hollywood to the music hall, Berlin cabaret and Broadway musicals to science fiction and pop art. The resulting music was a wild blend of camp artifice and avant-garde decadence. By 1975 the era had come to an end, but glam never truly went away. Indeed, its attitudes and aesthetics have shaped much that has followed since, from disco to punk, the new romantics to Britpop, Prince to Lady Gaga.

This is a beautifully illustrated and well-researched Pitkin Guide. Taking costume though the ages from 1500 to the present day, it shows how we can relate our own experience of fashion to that of our ancestors. Look out for more Pitkin Guides on the very best of British history, heritage and travel.

Social Psychology of Dress presents and explains the major theories and concepts that are important to understanding relationships between dress and human behavior. These concepts and theories are derived from such disciplines as sociology, psychology, anthropology, communication, and textiles and clothing. Information presented will provide summaries of empirical research, as well as examples from current events or popular culture. The book provides a broad-based and inclusive discussion of the social psychology of dress, including: - The study of dress and how to do it - Cultural topics such as cultural patterns including technology, cultural complexity, normative order, aesthetics, hygiene, ethnicity, ritual - Societal topics such as family, economy-occupation, social organizations and sports, fraternal organizations - Individual-focused theories on deviance, personality variables, self, values, body image and social cognition - Coverage of key theories related to dress and identity provide a strong theoretical foundation for further research Unique chapter features bring in industry application and current events. The end-of-chapter summaries, discussion questions and activities give students opportunities to study and research dress. Teaching resources including an instructor's guide, test bank and PowerPoint presentations with full-color versions of images from the textbook. Social Psychology of Dress STUDIO - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary - Download worksheets to complete chapter activities

Representations of fashionable femininity have multiplied throughout the 20th century, with complex versions of feminine identity being found in fashion store advertising, magazines, photography, and museum collections. This book examines the relationship between women's fashion, female representation and femininity in Britain throughout the 1900s. The authors unpick the dynamics of the fashion system and set fashion into the context of British social life, using the oral history accounts of women of all classes to highlight the meanings of particular fashions.