This definitive publication on Alexander McQueen (1969 2010) invites you into the creative mind and world of one of Britain s most brilliant, daring, and provocative designers, and the many themes and references that shaped his visionary fashion collections. A true comprehensive study, this catalog is the first in-depth look at McQueen and explores key themes of the exhibition tailoring, gothic, primitivism, naturalism, and futurism. The book also features previously unseen material as well as groundbreaking essays and feature spreads by multiple authors and leading fashion commentators. This kaleidoscopic approach explores themes central to the designer s work and his collections, such as the psychology of fashion, natural history, the theatre and spectacle of his shows, and the key creative collaborators during McQueen s lifetime. Alexander McQueen also offers an encyclopedic survey of McQueen s catwalk collections, illustrated with striking images by leading fashion photographers, and specially commissioned photographs that capture the breathtaking skill of his designs and awesome theatricality of his shows.

Through 100 groundbreaking dresses, The Dress traces the past and present influences and reinterpretations in clothing design. From the Victorian crinoline to Vivienne Westwood's mini-crini of 1985, from Herve Leger's 1985 bandage dress to Christopher Kane's 2006 neon version, each landmark dress gives examples of how fashion ideas have been reborn and referenced throughout time by designers. By making connections between designers and across decades, the book allows the reader to discover the breadth of influence in this field, the magic of inspired originality from fashion designers and an overview of fashion history. From beaded and bias-cut to frou-frou to corseted, Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent, laced to bustled, each dress tells a fashion story through anecdotes and analysis, with historic and cross-cultural references, beautiful imagery, and immaculate referencing.

What happens to punks, clubbers, goths, riot grrls, soulies, break-dancers and queer scene participants as they become older?
For decades, research on spectacular 'youth cultures' has understood such groups as adolescent phenomena and assumed that involvement ceases with the onset of adulthood. In an age of increasingly complex life trajectories, "Ageing and Youth Cultures" is the first anthology to challenge such thinking by examining the lives of those who continue to participate into adulthood and middle-age.
Showcasing a range of original research case studies from across the globe, the chapters explore how participants reconcile their continuing involvement with ageing bodies, older identities and adult responsibilities. Breaking new ground and establishing a new field of study, the book will be essential reading for students and scholars researching or studying questions of youth, fashion, popular music and identity across a wide range of disciplines.

In this sequel to GingerNutz: The Jungle Memoir of a Model Orangutan, we see the ginger-haired beauty cavorting about the famous landmarks of Paris and visiting the ateliers of storied fashion designers. She's back! After becoming a breakout star in the fashion world, GingerNutz, the first Bornean-born orangutan supermodel, has landed in Paris for a whirlwind week of fittings, photo shoots and parties. Though born in humble jungle surroundings, the precocious primate quickly adjusts to life at the upper echelons of the fashion world: bookings at all the maisons de haute couture, front-row seats to the latest theater shows and hotel suites at the Ritz. In this sequel to GingerNutz: The Jungle Memoir of a Model Orangutan, we see the ginger-haired beauty cavorting about the famous landmarks of Paris - Notre Dame Cathedral, Cafe de Flore - and visiting the ateliers of storied fashion designers including Azzedine Alaia, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Comme des Garcons and Dries van Noten. Being the hottest model of the moment, GingerNutz will also model the latest haute couture styles, chosen at the Fall 2018 shows in Paris by Grace Coddington. Michael Roberts' charming text and hand-drawn illustrations capture the wonder and whimsy of a glamorous but still naive young girl's adventures in Paris. The story of GingerNutz was inspired by legendary model and fashion editor Grace Coddington, the longtime creative director of American Vogue and a close friend of the author.

Often described as the "hottest" retail phenomenon, ephemeral retail concerns the growth of pop-up stores as a new mode of retailing. These temporary stores "pop-up" without notice, quickly attract crowds, then disappear or morph into something else. Although they share similarities with traditional physical stores and online stores, ephemeral stores outshine existing retail formats as they have many unique and differentiating characteristics. These stores are becoming more popular among distribution channels as they offer exclusive and surprising retail experiences. Many established brands have already integrated these new points of sale into their distribution channels, while other brands are adopting them to raise communication, awareness, sales or just for experimentation. This phenomenon is finding its place amongst retailers not only for its efficiency and effectiveness but also for its unique impact, providing a sense of novelty that makes it particularly attractive to postmodern consumers seeking hedonic experiences. This concise text introduces all aspects of this growing phenomenon and contextualises it within existing channels of distribution. It explores brand atmospheric interventions that are designed to affect customer emotions, behaviours or experiences, as well as practices retailers adopt to build relationships with their customers. It will be of interest to scholars and advanced students in retail marketing and branding.

Inspired by a rapidly changing fashion landscape, Fashion: New Feminist Essays offers historical and contemporary studies that reveal the relationships between fashion with gender, sexuality, race, and age. Fashion is a rich terrain for feminist scholars in the twenty-first century. Explicit engagements with feminist and queer politics, critical interventions by industry outsiders across digital platforms, diversifying images of stylish bodies, and ongoing discussions of the ethics and sustainability of fashion production: all of these point to an urgent need to reappraise the relationship of fashion to feminism and other justice-seeking movements. The essays in this collection take up fashion as a feminist critical tool that uniquely holds together the lived and represented body with larger cultural structures. Contributors unearth surprising new lines of connection between gender, sexuality, race, age, and religion in their relationship to capitalism, both historically and in the present. Bringing together established and emerging scholars, and perspectives from gender studies, history, sociology, philosophy, and literary studies, Fashion: New Feminist Essays traces the far-reaching impact of this most feminized of forms, underscoring the significance of fashion studies for understanding the politics of culture. This book was originally published as a special issue of the Australian Feminist Studies journal.

The Mongol period (1206-1368) marked a major turning point of exchange - culturally, politically, and artistically - across Eurasia. The wide-ranging international exchange that occurred during the Mongol period is most apparent visually through the inclusion of Mongol motifs in textile, paintings, ceramics, and metalwork, among other media. Eiren Shea investigates how a group of newly-confederated tribes from the steppe conquered the most sophisticated societies in existence in less than a century, creating a courtly idiom that permanently changed the aesthetics of China and whose echoes were felt across Central Asia, the Middle East, and even Europe. This book will be of interest to scholars in art history, fashion design, and Asian studies.

Now available in a brand-new edition, this popular and widely praised instructional textbook has become a standard for classroom use in fashion design courses. Twenty-four step-by-step exercises tutor students in methods for finding inspiration, developing techniques to sharpen their observational skills, and in creating fashion drawings in color and black-and-white media. Separate sections coach students in getting started, and on understanding figure proportions, planning and designing garments, and creating and assessing flat specification drawings. New in this expanded and updated edition is a section that provides detailed instruction in digital art techniques. This beautifully illustrated guide is organized into units that reflect curricula at leading international design colleges. Added features include a designer's glossary and an index. The book's more than 300 color illustrations are as instructive as they are handsome.

In 1881, a writer in the Saturday Review called tattooing 'an art without a history'. 'No-one', it went on, 'has made it the business of his life to study the development of tattooing.' Until now. Painted People is a beguiling and intimate look at an untold history of humanity. The earliest tattoos yet identified belonged to OEtzi, the 'iceman', whose mummy allows us a brief glimpse into the prehistory of the practice. We know that over the more than five thousand years since he was tattooed, countless cultures have performed this ancient practice, and people in every corner of the world have been tattooed. For the most part, these fascinating histories remain stubbornly untold, and the secrets of Siberian princesses, Chinese generals and Victorian socialites have been hidden on the skin, under layers of clothing and under layers of history. Now with access to a wealth of new and unreported material, this book will roll up its sleeves and reveal the artwork hidden beneath them. In Painted People, Dr Matt Lodder, one of the world's foremost experts on tattooing, tells the stories of people like Arnaq, who was tattooed in keeping with her cultural and religious traditions in sixteenth-century Canada, and Horace Ridler, who was tattooed as a means to make money in 1930s London. And in between these two extremes, he describes tattoos inked for love, for loyalty, for sedition and espionage and for self-expression, as well as tattoos inflicted on the unwilling, to ostracise. Taken together, these twenty-one tattoos paint a portrait of humanity as both artist and canvas.

In this innovative collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the fashion industry, Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako offer a new methodology for studying transnational capitalism. Drawing on their respective linguistic and regional areas of expertise, Rofel and Yanagisako show how different historical legacies of capital, labor, nation, and kinship are crucial in the formation of global capitalism. Focusing on how Italian fashion is manufactured, distributed, and marketed by Italian-Chinese ventures and how their relationships have been complicated by China's emergence as a market for luxury goods, the authors illuminate the often-overlooked processes that produce transnational capitalism-including privatization, negotiation of labor value, rearrangement of accumulation, reconfiguration of kinship, and outsourcing of inequality. In so doing, Fabricating Transnational Capitalism reveals the crucial role of the state and the shifting power relations between nations in shaping the ideas and practices of the Italian and Chinese partners.

It is a common belief that Australians take little interest in their appearance. Yet from the first white settlement, clothing was of crucial importance to Australians. It was central to the ways class and status were negotiated and equally significant for marking out sexual differences. Dress was implicated in definitions of morality, in the relationship between Europeans and Aboriginal people, and between convict and free. This 1994 book, a history of the cultural practices of dress rather than an account of fashion, reveals the broader historical and cultural implications of clothes in Australia for the first time. It shows that the colonies did not always slavishly follow British fashion, and also looks at the impact of the gold field experience on Australian dress, the nature of local manufacturing and retail outlets, and the way in which rural men and their bush dress, rather than women's dress, became closely related to Australian identity.

It is a common belief that Australians take little interest in their appearance. Yet from the first white settlement, clothing was of crucial importance to Australians. It was central to the ways class and status were negotiated and equally significant for marking out sexual differences. Dress was implicated in definitions of morality, in the relationship between Europeans and Aboriginal people, and between convict and free. This 1994 book, a history of the cultural practices of dress rather than an account of fashion, reveals the broader historical and cultural implications of clothes in Australia for the first time. It shows that the colonies did not always slavishly follow British fashion, and also looks at the impact of the gold field experience on Australian dress, the nature of local manufacturing and retail outlets, and the way in which rural men and their bush dress, rather than women's dress, became closely related to Australian identity.

Veils, Turbans, and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria tells the story of Islamic reform from the perspective of dress, textile production, trade, and pilgrimage over the past 200 years. As Islamic reformers have sought to address societal problems such as poverty, inequality, ignorance, unemployment, extravagance, and corruption, they have used textiles as a means to express their religious positions on these concerns. Home first to the early indigo trade and later to a thriving textile industry, northern Nigeria has been a center for Islamic practice as well as a place where everything from women's hijabs to turbans, buttons, zippers, short pants, and military uniforms offers a statement on Islam. Elisha P. Renne argues that awareness of material distinctions, religious ideology, and the political and economic contexts from which successive Islamic reform groups have emerged is important for understanding how people in northern Nigeria continue to seek a proper Islamic way of being in the world and how they imagine their futures-spiritually, economically, politically, and environmentally.

Taking a global, multicultural, social, and economic perspective, this work explores the diverse and colourful history of human attire. From prehistoric times to the age of globalization, articles cover the evolution of clothing utility, style, production, and commerce, including accessories (shoes, hats, gloves, handbags, and jewellery) for men, women, and children. Dress for different climates, occupations, recreational activities, religious observances, rites of passages, and other human needs and purposes - from hunting and warfare to sports and space exploration - are examined in depth and detail. Fashion and design trends in diverse historical periods, regions and countries, and social and ethnic groups constitute a major area of coverage, as does the evolution of materials (from animal fur to textiles to synthetic fabrics) and production methods (from sewing and weaving to industrial manufacturing and computer-aided design).

One of the greatest photographers of the twentieth century. A collection of Norman Parkinson's greatest works, in the fields of fashion, celebrity, royalty and portraiture. Featuring many iconic images of famous faces including Audrey Hepburn, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Jean Seberg, Jerry Hall and many more. A long overdue introduction into the work of a genius of photography. Norman Parkinson (1913-1990) is one of the greatest and most influential photographers of the twentieth century. Beginning in the 1930s his style of work helped define the look of each subsequent decade (including the New Look of Paris in the '50s and Swinging London of the '60s) and his impact on his followers was immense. Parkinson gained recognition in his early years revolutionising photography by moving female models from the static, serious and controlled environment of the photographic studio to real-life locations and exotic surroundings. This dynamic and spontaneous style garnered the attention of numerous fashion magazines including Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and Town & Country, earning Parkinson international recognition. His photographs helped create the age of the supermodel and made Parkinson the photographer of choice for fashion designers, artists and writers, musicians and actors, and British royalty. In a career that spanned six decades, Parkinson dazzled the world and inspired his peers with sparkling inventiveness as a portrait and fashion photographer. His achievements were recognised by the Queen of England when, in 1981, he was awarded a C.B.E. (Commander of the British Empire). In that same year he was also honoured with a major retrospective exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery in London.

*** Fashion writer Eloise Moran has studied thousands of pictures of Princess Diana over the past few years. Looking carefully at Diana's clothes, she discovered that behind each outfit lies a carefully crafted strategy. What Lady Di couldn't express verbally, she seemed to express through her clothes. With The Lady Di Look Book Eloise Moran takes us on a photographic journey celebrating Princess Diana's fashion choices over the years. From the pink gingham pants and pastel-yellow overalls of a sacrificial lamb - to the sexy Versace mini dresses, power suits, and cycling shorts of a free woman; this is an interpretation of Diana's most show stopping eighties and early nineties outfits and of course, her most fearless post-divorce revenge looks. Whether it's '80s cottagecore Diana, androgynous bow-tie Diana, little black dress Diana, or athleisure Diana - there is a look for everyone. Full of wit and humour, The Lady Di Look Book illuminates what a bold, and inspiring fashion icon Diana really was and shows that there's a bit of Diana in all of us.

The act of undressing has a multitude of meanings, which vary dramatically when this commonly private gesture is presented for public consumption. This ground-breaking book explores the significance of undressing in various cultural and social contexts. As we are increasingly obsessed with dress choices as signifiers of who we are and how we feel, an investigation into what happens as we remove our clothes has never been more pertinent. Exploring three main issues - politics, tease, and clothes without bodies - Acts of Undressing discusses these key themes through an in-depth and eclectic mix of case studies including flashing at Mardi Gras, the World Burlesque Games, and 'shoefiti' used by gangs to mark territories. Building on leading theories of dress and the body, from academics including Roland Barthes and Mario Perniolato, Ruth Barcan and Erving Goffman, Acts of Undressing is essential reading for students of fashion, sociology, anthropology, visual culture, and related subjects.

Fashion design students about to start out on their professional career are shown how to showcase their talent and stand out from the competition in their quest for a rewarding job. This book instructs in editing and targeting a Graduate Collection, and then shows how to present it in a winning portfolio. Author Steven Faerm discusses the student's graduate thesis collection from first concept and inspiration to a final merchandising plan. He goes on to analyze the qualities that make a stellar portfolio--its layout, use of color, labeling, and more. A following section focuses on strategies for successful job hunting, including creating a winning r sum and cover letter, making a winning impression at job interviews, seeking out internships, and more. The book concludes with descriptions of specific careers to seek in the fashion industry, including fashion designer, costume designer, patternmaker, buyer, fashion journalist, fashion illustrator, and many others. An inspiring text is complemented with more than 400 color illustrations.

In the first ever book devoted to a critical investigation of the personal style blogosphere, Minh-Ha T. Pham examines the phenomenal rise of elite Asian bloggers who have made a career of posting photographs of themselves wearing clothes on the Internet. Pham understands their online activities as "taste work" practices that generate myriad forms of capital for superbloggers and the brands they feature. A multifaceted and detailed analysis, Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet addresses questions concerning the status and meaning of "Asian taste" in the early twenty-first century, the kinds of cultural and economic work Asian tastes do, and the fashion public and industry's appetite for certain kinds of racialized eliteness. Situating blogging within the historical context of gendered and racialized fashion work while being attentive to the broader cultural, technological, and economic shifts in global consumer capitalism, Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet has profound implications for understanding the changing and enduring dynamics of race, gender, and class in shaping some of the most popular work practices and spaces of the digital fashion media economy.

Modest fashion has been gaining momentum in the mainstream global fashion industry over the past half-decade and is now a multi-billion-dollar retail sector. Its growing and now consistent appearance on high-profile fashion runways, on celebrities and in the headlines of fashion publications and news outlets, has shown that the modest fashion movement is hugely relevant to consumers. This is particularly true for millennials who are attracted to the feminist influences behind concealing your body, follow faith-based dress codes, or are attuned to social media, where more and more modest fashion bloggers are using imagery to inspire their followers. While the movement can credit European high fashion houses, like Gucci, for making conservative dresses and layering "in style" and "on trend," and subsequent Western labels like DKNY, H&M and Mango for dabbling in the realm of modest wear, it is the newly emerging group of faith-influenced fashion brands who are driving the revolution, along with a new crop of Muslim fashion bloggers. These have helped catapult demure dressing trends globally. This book speaks to the various personalities and companies who have helped shape the modest fashion industry into such a significant retail sector, while also exploring the controversies that lie at the heart of the movement, such as one pressing question: even if it covers the skin but is flamboyant, modeled with the purpose of attracting attention, and publicly promoted on social media, can fashion truly be modest?

Over the last four decades, the fashion modeling industry has become a lightning rod for debates about Western beauty ideals, the sexual objectification of women, and consumer desire. Yet, fashion models still captivate, embodying all that is cool, glam, hip, and desirable. They are a fixture in tabloids, magazines, fashion blogs, and television. Why exactly are models so appealing? And how do these women succeed in so soundly holding our attention? In This Year's Model, Elizabeth Wissinger weaves together in-depth interviews and research at model castings, photo shoots, and runway shows to offer a glimpse into the life of the model throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. Once an ad hoc occupation, the "model life" now involves a great deal of physical and virtual management of the body, or what Wissinger terms "glamour labor." Wissinger argues that glamour labor-the specialized modeling work of self-styling, crafting a 'look,' and building an image-has been amplified by the rise of digital media, as new technologies make tinkering with the body's form and image easy. Models can now present self-fashioning, self-surveillance, and self-branding as essential behaviors for anyone who is truly in the know and 'in fashion.' Countless regular people make it their mission to achieve this ideal, not realizing that technology is key to creating the unattainable standard of beauty the model upholds-and as Wissinger argues, this has been the case for decades, before Photoshop even existed. Both a vividly illustrated historical survey and an incisive critique of fashion media, This Year's Model demonstrates the lasting cultural influence of this unique form of embodied labor.

Fashion Ethics provides a comprehensive overview of the ethical issues in the fashion industry, from collection design concept to upcycling and closed loop production. This book answers an urgent need for a comprehensive understanding of the fundamental ethics of the fashion industry. Sue Thomas goes beyond the usual contentious issues of environmental impact and human rights, taking the reader deeper into the endemic issues including sizeism, ageism, animal rights, and the lack of diversity in models and in the media. The book lays out the significant ethical issues within the fashion supply chain by mapping the lifecycle of a garment and exploring key topics such as deep ecology, cultural copyright speciesism, the role of the customer, and technology in future ethics. It also features current international industry information and industry-relevant case studies from brands, media and mobile technology, and NGOs including Oxfam (UK), Redress (Hong Kong), Nimany (US), Labor Link (US), People Tree (UK), and Peppermint (Australia). Fashion Ethics provides much-needed information for fashion students, industry professionals, and customers.

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world's influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world. This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today's rapidly changing modern world. Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

The Banjara - an ethnic group composed of nomadic tribes, centered in the Indian state of Rajasthan - are renowned for their highly colourful textiles, often embellished with mirrors and intricate embroidery and produced from natural resources. Created to satisfy the needs of the tribe, occasionally incorporating shells, beads, mirrors, and tassels for decoration, the Banjara technique is unique in India and a celebration of the strength of the women who practise it. Recent genetic and linguistic evidence supports ties between the Banjara and the European Roma, eliciting much debate about the exact nature of the connection. This is the first book to be devoted to the traditions and embroidery of the Banjara, illuminating their history and investigating their links with the European Roma. Photographs by documentary photographer Tim McLaughlin illustrate the highest quality pieces of Banjara embroidery and costume, both historic and contemporary, and are accompanied by a foreword by Rosemary Crill, a senior curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and an appendix of line drawings.