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Books > Social sciences > Sociology, social studies > Social institutions > Customs & folklore > Costume, clothes & fashion
The story of fashion is woven through with colour. Vividly illustrated and compellingly written, The Colour of Fashion uncovers the colourful history of style, through 10 shades and their key moments in the spotlight - including Beyonce in empowering yellow chiffon, Valentino's signature red gowns, and Audrey Hepburn in that Little Black Dress - and shows that colour means so much more than meets the eye. Black - Purple - Blue - Green - Yellow - Orange - Brown - Red - Pink - White
The Great age of ocean travel has long since passed, but ocean liners remain one of the most powerful and admired symbols of modernity. No form of transport was as romantic, remarkable, or contested, and ocean liner design became a matter of national prestige as well as an arena in which the larger dynamics of global competition were played out. This beautifully illustrated book considers over a century of liner design: from the striking graphics created to promote liners to the triumphs of engineering, and from luxurious interiors to on board fashion and activities. Ocean Liners explores the design of Victorian and Art Deco 'floating palaces', sleek post-war liners as well as these ships' impact on avant-garde artists and architects such as Le Corbusier.
"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement 19th and early 20th-century hair appears to be everywhere when you start to look, from the abundant locks of the pre-Raphaelites to the myriad objects on show at the Great Exhibitions. The latter, hosted at venues such as the Crystal Palace, hinted at the level of global trade in hair economies, from hair harvest, hairpieces, and hairwork to commodities for styling and adornment. It was a period when hair became fetishized in all sorts of ways, from fashioning hair to moralising constriction, from suggestions of sexuality in abundant free-flowing locks, to intricate hair-incorporating jewellery which offered spiritual connections to the dead. In a period of increasing globalization and associated anxieties, hair came to express identity not just for the individual but for different cultures. Perhaps inevitably, hair itself became a contested site of signification whether as the strands of the diaspora, the cut locks of the underclass, or the coiffures of the court. A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Empire presents an overview of the tangled tresses of hair in this period, with essays covering: Religion and Ritualized Belief; Self and Society; Fashion and Adornment; Production and Practice; Health and Hygiene; Gender and Sexuality; Race and Ethnicity; Class and Social Status and Cultural Representations.
The ultimate glamorous, escapist blockbuster - perfect for fans of Melanie Blake, Jackie Collins and Shirley Conran's Lace. 'Just the kind of glamorous escapism we all desperately need right now. Compelling and satisfying from start to fantastic finish' Celia Walden 'Campbell's warm, wise bonkbuster...transports you to the sexual free-for-all of the 1970s... There's an upbeat honesty in the writing that reminded me of Jilly Cooper' Rowan Pelling, Daily Mail 'A rip-roaring, gold-plated, sizzling bonkbuster - this is one for Jackie Collins fans everywhere who are missing the glitz!' Fiona Walker Glamour. Deceit. Sex. Deadly ambition. They have the world at their feet. And they want it ALL. 5* reader raves for Secrets in the Dark! 'Wow, wow, wow. Hot, steamy, surprising. Fantastically written, fun read. For anyone missing the amazing Jackie Collins your book needs are fulfilled in Ceril Campbell. I promise you won't be disappointed' 'Pure unadulterated fun' 'As an avid reader of anything by Jackie Collins and Shirley Conran, this novel felt like candy to me!' 'A fantastic gripping read hyped as the new Jackie Collins which didn't disappoint . . . please say Ceril Campbell is already writing her next book!!' ....................................................................... Innocent Phoebe has only known a life of privilege. Street-smart Paula has had to make her own way in the world. When the two girls meet as teenagers, they form a deep sisterly bond, recognising in one another a yearning for love and for lives that are different from the ones they were born into. But when they each suffer a personal trauma, they are torn apart and set out on very different paths. So begins a rollercoaster journey throughout the 1970s of extreme highs and lows for Phoebe and Paula, as they travel from the epicentre of cool on the Kings Road, Chelsea, to the glamour of Paris, LA and the South of France. It's a scandalous world of sex, drugs, celebrity and wealth - alluring, addictive...and deceptive. ....................................................................... Readers adore Secrets in the Dark! 'For those of you missing the fabulous Jackie Collins, look no further than Ceril Campbell's debut novel' 5* reader review 'The perfect escapism...easy to read, full of luxury, romance, style, fashion and rock and roll. Highly recommend!' 5* reader review 'Anyone interested in what made swinging London cool would enjoy this exciting, action-packed narrative - it is both a love letter to London and a tantalizing mystery' 5* reader review 'Loved, loved the story and could not put the book down' 5* reader review 'Terrific mystery that has you guessing till practically the last page. Highly recommended' 5* reader review 'The new Jackie Collins' 5* reader review 'A great debut novel with a clever twist at the end. Recommend as a brilliant holiday read' reader review
Rethinking Fashion Globalization is a timely call to rewrite the fashion system and push back against Eurocentric dominance within fashion histories by presenting new models, approaches and understandings of fashion from critical thinkers at the forefront of decolonial fashion discourse. This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more. The volume is divided into three key themes, 'Disruptions in Time and Space', 'Nationalism and Transnationalism' and 'Global Design Practices'. These themes re-map fashion's origins, practices and futures, to present alternatives for reclaiming and rethinking fashion globalization in the 21st century.
2020 Second Place, Best Nonfiction Multi Author, International Latino Book Awards Collecting the perspectives of scholars who reflect on their own relationships to particular garments, analyze the politics of dress, and examine the role of consumerism and entrepreneurialism in the production of creating and selling a style, meXicana Fashions examines and searches for meaning in these visible, performative aspects of identity. Focusing primarily on Chicanas but also considering trends connected to other Latin American communities, the authors highlight specific constituencies that are defined by region ("Tejana style," "L.A. style"), age group ("homie," "chola"), and social class (marked by haute couture labels such as Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta). The essays acknowledge the complex layers of these styles, which are not mutually exclusive but instead reflect a range of intersections in occupation, origin, personality, sexuality, and fads. Other elements include urban indigenous fashion shows, the shifting quinceanera market, "walking altars" on the Days of the Dead, plus-size clothing, huipiles in the workplace, and dressing in drag. Together, these chapters illuminate the full array of messages woven into a vibrant social fabric.
Fashion in Altermodern China examines key features of women's fashion within the cultural and political context of contemporary China. While global brands and styles heavily influence Chinese consumer trends, the Chinese fashion 'system' is formed of its own internal logics and emergent trends, too. Adopting the theoretical term 'altermodern', Feng Jie encourages us to view China in terms of its rapid modernization which presents its own rhythms and meanings, and argues persuasively that Chinese fashion can't be wholly understood in terms of a Western discourse of modernity, postmodernity and the global. Expanding our understanding of the fashion 'system', Fashion in Altermodern China takes on board new trends in global trade, new technologies, and the hybridity of designs and consumption of fashion. Through critical readings of Barthes, on the 'neutral', and Jullien, on 'blandness', both directly influenced by Asian philosophies, the author offers a new perspective on Chinese fashion, arguing that, while global-local contexts lead to identifiably postmodern and hybrid aesthetics, for women in contemporary China the flux and mix of available fashions is experienced in a more open neutral manner than scholars have previously described. Crucially, then, rather than position trends in China only in terms of 'hybridity' (which betrays a Western bias and a binary logic of host-recipient), there are more fluid ways in which we need to understand how women engage in fashion in China today.
Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 Libertine practices have long been associated with transgression and social deviance. This innovative book is the first to focus fully on the relationship between libertinism as a social phenomenon and as a form of fashion. Taking the reader from early modernity to the present day, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas reveal how the connection between clothing and the taboo, the erotic, and the forbidden is at the heart of "libertine fashion". Moving from the decadent courts of Charles II and Louis XV to the catwalks of the 21st century, Libertine Fashion examines literary and sartorial figures ranging from the Marquis de Sade and Lord Byron to Oscar Wilde, Josephine Baker, Colette, and Madonna. Focusing on libertinism as a sartorial practice and identity, this book traces the genealogy of the concept through the proto feminists of the English Reformation, the hedonistic decadents of the fin de siecle, and the Flappers of the Roaring 20s. The historical arc traverses the 1970s era of punk and glam, the shapeshifting personae of David Bowie, and the "disciplinary regimes" of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Looking at libertine practices and appearances with fresh eyes, this bracing and original book affords many new insights into transgressive style, and of the relationship between sexuality and clothing. Accessible and thoroughly researched, Libertine Fashion uses a multidisciplinary approach that draws on historical literature, film, fashion, philosophy, and popular culture. Offering a historical and philosophical grounding in contemporary forms of identity and dress, it is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, gender, sexuality, and cultural studies.
Mid-1930s clothing for men, women, and children are presented in 300 color photographs from the Sears catalogs. See the popular styles of dresses, suits, coats, and sleepwear; as well as hats, shoes, and undergarments. Printed and solid fabrics are shown with customary accessories and in the latest styles available. Today's fashion designers will find the pages inspiring, and vintage clothing collectors will enjoy authentic designs.
Veils, Turbans, and Islamic Reform in Northern Nigeria tells the story of Islamic reform from the perspective of dress, textile production, trade, and pilgrimage over the past 200 years. As Islamic reformers have sought to address societal problems such as poverty, inequality, ignorance, unemployment, extravagance, and corruption, they have used textiles as a means to express their religious positions on these concerns. Home first to the early indigo trade and later to a thriving textile industry, northern Nigeria has been a center for Islamic practice as well as a place where everything from women's hijabs to turbans, buttons, zippers, short pants, and military uniforms offers a statement on Islam. Elisha P. Renne argues that awareness of material distinctions, religious ideology, and the political and economic contexts from which successive Islamic reform groups have emerged is important for understanding how people in northern Nigeria continue to seek a proper Islamic way of being in the world and how they imagine their futures-spiritually, economically, politically, and environmentally.
More than 400 of the author's own drawings provide an authentic record of over 1,300 years of changing fashions in women's hairstyles and headwear in England. Finely detailed images -- rendered from vintage sources -- depict everything from wimples and crespines worn in Anglo-Saxon times to early Victorian bonnets and pillboxes of the mid-20th century.
The antique beaded bag is a most exquisite and sought-after vintage collectible. Over 600 detailed color photographs display hundreds of mostly European (French, Italian, Austrian, and Czechoslovakian) handbags, many never before published, including Miser, American Indian, embroidered, drawstring, framed, scenic, Bohemian, and cut steel, with information on care, history, and design techniques, and close-up photographs of the intricate beadwork. Detailed captions, a current value guide, a comprehensive bibliography, and an index guarantee this to be the ultimate collector's guide to vintage handbag fashion design.
The tradition of the veil, which refers to various cloth coverings of the head, face, and body, has been little studied in Africa, where Islam has been present for more than a thousand years. These lively essays raise questions about what is distinctive about veiling in Africa, what religious histories or practices are reflected in particular uses of the veil, and how styles of veils have changed in response to contemporary events. Together, they explore the diversity of meanings and experiences with the veil, revealing it as both an object of Muslim piety and an expression of glamorous fashion.
This book details Britain's neckwear of distinction, with 472 regimental, college, university, and club ties pictured in full color. The guide takes readers on an easy-to-follow tour of the ties that distinguish Royal Armoured Corps from Regiments and Yeomanry, the Gurkha, Indian, and Colonial regiments from Naval and Army Corps, and the Royal Marines from Air Force. In addition, the official ties for London colleges, medical schools, Oxford colleges, and universities are pictured, along with Old Boys, clubs, and national and county designs. Ties of Distinction includes an introduction by Christopher Sells of P.L. Sells & Co., Britain's last remaining manufacturer of a complete line of today's regimental stripe ties.
Through ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's (R), and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers. These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption. Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3e
For 500 years, the world's greatest makers of costume jewelry have hidden, anonymous, in the heart of Europe: Gablonz, Bohemia. This groundbreaking, beautiful book exposes the jewels, craftsmanship, technological development, and history of Bohemia. Almost 400 gorgeous color photographs illustrate the area's artistry, its most significant designers and manufacturers and their contributions to the art of jewelry, button, and bead making. Bohemian glass dynasties lasted for centuries, until the middle of the 20th century, when the entire community of German-stock craftsmen was expelled from the area in the turbulence of World War II. Though Gablonz will forever feel the loss of these great craftsmen, their artistry has been meticulously researched and documented by Sibylle Jargstorf for this book.
The name Phyllis Posnick is synonymous with Vogue and the extraordinary fashion editorials the magazine's audience loves. Posnick is best known for creating photo editorials to illustrate the magazine's Beauty and Health articles, but cast off any ideas you have about close-ups of lips and eyelashes. Instead, picture models bathed in paint or posing next to cuts of fresh meat. This collection invites readers to glimpse the complex production process-and the collaboration and creativity-behind each extraordinary editorial. The book features images by a who's who of legendary photographers: Irving Penn, Steven Klein, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Tim Walker, Anton Corbijn and Helmut Newton. The book includes a foreword by Anna Wintour and is punctuated by Posnick's personal memories and irreverence.
Cosplay, short for "costume play", has grown from its origins at fan conventions into a billion-dollar global dress phenomenon. Costuming Cosplay takes us from elaborately crafted DIY costumes to online fandoms, examining how the practice of portraying fictional characters from popular culture through dress and performance has become a creative means of expressing and playing with different identities. With an approach that ranges from admiration and role-play to gender performance, this is the first book to fully examine the subculture and costume of the Cosplay phenomenon. Drawing on extensive first-hand research at conventions across North America and Asia, Theresa M. Winge invites us to explore how Cosplay functions as a meritocracy of creativity, escapism, and disguise, and offers a creative realm in which fantasy and new forms of socializing carry as much importance as costume. Illustrated with color photographs of both celebrity and amateur Cosplayers, Costuming Cosplay is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and costume, popular culture, anthropology, gender, and media studies, as well as global players and fans of Cosplay.
From the Chanel suit to the Wonderbra, via Jackie Kennedy, Ziggy Stardust and Alexander McQueen, respected fashion journalist and editor Paula Reed explores each of the styles and visionaries that have defined the way we dress. Spanning fifty years - from the 1950s to the 1990s - and accompanied by striking photographs throughout, Fashion Evolution is the definitive story of the style moments that changed the world.
The Nigerian and West African practice of aso ebi fashion invokes notions of wealth and group dynamics in social gatherings. Okechukwu Nwafor's volume Aso ebi investigates the practice in the cosmopolitan urban setting of Lagos, and argues that the visual and consumerist hype typical of the late capitalist system feeds this unique fashion practice. The book suggests that dress, fashion, aso ebi, and photography engender a new visual culture that largely reflects the economics of mundane living. Nwafor examines the practice's societal dilemma, whereby the solidarity of aso ebi is dismissed by many as an ephemeral transaction. A circuitous transaction among photographers, fashion magazine producers, textile merchants, tailors, and individual fashionistas reinvents aso ebi as a product of cosmopolitan urban modernity. The results are a fetishization of various forms of commodity culture, personality cults through mass followership, the negotiation of symbolic power through mass-produced images, exchange value in human relationships through gifts, and a form of exclusion achieved through digital photo editing. Aso ebi has become an essential part of Lagos cosmopolitanism: as a rising form of a unique visual culture it is central to the unprecedented spread of a unique West African fashion style that revels in excessive textile overflow. This extreme dress style is what an individual requires to transcend the lack imposed by the chaos of the postcolonial city.
Mid-1930s clothing for men, women, and children are presented in 300 color photographs from the Sears catalogs. See the popular styles of dresses, suits, coats, and sleepwear; as well as hats, shoes, and undergarments. Printed and solid fabrics are shown with customary accessories and in the latest styles available. Today's fashion designers will find the pages inspiring, and vintage clothing collectors will enjoy authentic designs.
'I loved her then, I love her now. Annie's back and she's better than ever! Fun, feel good and feisty - Annie Valentine is the woman you want to share a cocktail with!' Portia MacIntosh Can she get her life back online?Tired of being underestimated, Annie Valentine is determined to prove to everyone that she can make her life a success. Her job as a personal shopper is brilliant, but she's now intent on setting up a shoe and handbag empire of her own. To get there, she'll do anything and go anywhere - the handbag factories of Italy are calling! But what started out as a fun after hours project is getting slightly out of hand. Because Annie is working around the clock to bag the perfect bargain, and her family life and relationship with adorable Ed is feeling the strain. Annie knows she is getting in too deep, but the more she tries to pull back, the more risks she takes. Soon, everything Annie loves is on the line and perhaps the only way to have it all is to step into the real world again.... Fans of Sophie Kinsella, Lindsey Kelk and Paige Toon will love this laugh-out-loud romantic comedy from bestselling author Carmen Reid. What readers are saying! "If you love shopping as much as you love a great read, try this. Wonderful." Bestselling author, Katie Fforde "Annie Valentine is a wonderful character - I want her to burst into my life and sort out my wardrobe for me!" Bestselling author, Jill Mansell "You will enjoy getting to know Annie Valentine; laughing with her and crying with her. You may even fall in love with her . . . I have! A fantastic read!" Reader review "Fantastic read, couldn't put it down" Reader review "Can't wait to read the next one!" Reader review
"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement Hair, or lack of it, is one the most significant identifiers of individuals in any society. In Antiquity, the power of hair to send a series of social messages was no different. This volume covers nearly a thousand years of history, from Archaic Greece to the end of the Roman Empire, concentrating on what is now Europe, North Africa, and the Near East. Among the key issues identified by its authors is the recognition that in any given society male and female hair tend to be opposites (when male hair is generally short, women's is long); that hair is a marker of age and stage of life (children and young people have longer, less confined hairstyles; adult hair is far more controlled); hair can be used to identify the 'other' in terms of race and ethnicity but also those who stand outside social norms such as witches and mad women. The chapters in A Cultural History of Hair in Antiquity cover the following topics: religion and ritualized belief, self and society, fashion and adornment, production and practice, health and hygiene, gender and sexuality, race and ethnicity, class and social status, and cultural representations.
"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement The Middle Ages were a time of great innovation, artistic vigor, and cultural richness. Appearances mattered a great deal during this vibrant era and hair was a key marker of the dynamism and sophistication of the period. Hair became ever more central to religious iconography, from Mary Magdalen to the Virgin Mary, while vernacular poets embellished their verses with descriptions of hairstyles both humble and elaborate, and merchants imported the finest hair products from great distances. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources, the volume examines how hairstyles and their representations developed-often to a degree of dazzling complexity-between the years AD 800 and AD 1450. From wimpled matrons and tonsured monks to adorned noblewomen, hair is revealed as a potent cultural symbol of gender, age, sexuality, health, class, and race. Illustrated with approximately 80 images, A Cultural History of Hair in the Middle Ages brings together leading scholars to present an overview of the period with essays on politics, science, religion, fashion, beauty, the visual arts, and popular culture.
"A thick, tangled and deliciously idiosyncratic history of hair." Times Literary Supplement The Enlightenment (1650-1800) was the Golden Age of hair. Hair dominated fashion as never before or since, with more men and women than ever donning elaborate wigs and hairdos. Such unprecedentedly extravagant styling naturally increased the demand for the services of professional hairdressers, whose numbers grew apace throughout the period. They, in turn, created a new range of hair-care products and a new literature of hair-care advice, ranging from hairstyles to hygiene, thus enlarging the market and further stimulating consumption. A Cultural History of Hair in the Enlightenment offers a record of their marketing success, mindful that the ultimate product of this culture of consumption was the consumer. Literary and visual arts celebrated the ambitious tetes and coifs of the period, but they also lampooned and caricatured the most fashionable in society. By exploring paintings, prints, plays, poems, novels, treatises, and advice manuals, the contributors to this volume show how hair in this period expanded beyond the fashionable and the superstitious, and became newly understood as material, inspiring empirical research and powering applications such as in the woolen goods industry. The essays in this volume-covering Religion and Ritualized Belief, Self and Society, Fashion and Adornment, Production and Practice, Health and Hygiene, Gender and Sexuality, Race and Ethnicity, Class and Social Status, and Cultural Representations-explore hair's many meanings and its importance during the Enlightenment period. |
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