Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather.

"A powerful expose of Parisian haute couture" - Book of the Week, Times Higher Education Fashion is one of the most powerful industries in the world, accounting for 6% of global consumption and growing steadily. Since the 1980s and the birth of the neoliberal economy, it has emerged as the glittering face of capitalism, bringing together prestige, power and beauty and occupying a central place in media and consumer fantasies. Yet the fashion industry, which claims to offer highly desirable job opportunities, relies significantly on job instability, not just in outsourced garment production but at the very heart of its creative production of luxury. Based on an in-depth investigation involving stylists, models, designers, hairdressers, make-up artists, photographers and interns, anthropologist Giulia Mensitieri goes behind fashion's glamorous facade to explore the lived realities of working in the industry. This challenging book lays bare the working conditions of 'the most beautiful job in the world,' showing that exploitation isn't confined to sweatshops abroad or sexual harassment of models, but exists at the very heart of the powerful symbolic and economic centre of fashion.

Clothing of the "Roaring `20s" comes to life in this new book through more than 550 color pictures of distinctive garments, fashion illustrations, and period photographs. The comprehensive text discusses the historical events and renowned designers who influenced the evolution of fashion throughout the decade. Fashions for men, women and children are shown here, from glittering evening gowns and bridal wear to lingerie, sportswear, and domestic uniforms. Hats, handbags, shoes, and jewelry plus smoking and drinking accessories are all included to document the heyday of the "flapper" and her friends. The glossary includes French fashion terms and pronunciations and the price guide is a useful reference.

Christian Dior described him as the inspiration for the New Look. Salvador Dali called his work soft sculpture, and Virginia Woolf exclaimed, He is a genius. As George Bernard Shaw tells us, only unreasonable men change the world. This portrait of the life and times of Charles James winner of two Coty awards, and the subject of a 2014 Metropolitan Museum of Art show draws on the glamour of Europe in the 1930s, and the dazzle of New York City from the 40s through the 70s as it travels with James from his birth to privilege in England in 1906 and follows his career through his complex and turbulent relationships with exceptional women such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Eleanor Lambert, ending with his penurious death in New York s fabled Chelsea Hotel. As engrossing as a novel, as dramatic as grand opera, James s story will provoke, rivet, and inspire.

"The entire town is disguised," declared a French tourist of eighteenth-century Venice. And, indeed, maskers of all ranks--nobles, clergy, imposters, seducers, con men--could be found mixing at every level of Venetian society. Even a pious nun donned a mask and male attire for her liaison with the libertine Casanova. In Venice Incognito, James H. Johnson offers a spirited analysis of masking in this carnival-loving city. He draws on a wealth of material to explore the world view of maskers, both during and outside of carnival, and reconstructs their logic: covering the face in public was a uniquely Venetian response to one of the most rigid class hierarchies in European history. This vivid account goes beyond common views that masking was about forgetting the past and minding the muse of pleasure to offer fresh insight into the historical construction of identity.

'A funny, achievable guide' Observer 'Lauren Bravo is one of my favourite writers' Dolly Alderton 'Bravo will inspire you to repair, recycle and give old items a new lease of life' Stylist You probably know the statistics: global clothing production has roughly doubled in just 15 years, and every year an estimated 300,000 tonnes of used clothing ends up in UK landfill. Fast fashion is the ultimate toxic relationship. It's bad news for the planet, our brains and our bank balances. We can't go on like this; our shopping habits need an overhaul. Journalist Lauren Bravo loves clothes more than anything, but she's called time on her affair with fast fashion in search of a slower, saner way of dressing. In this book, she'll help you do the same. How To Break Up With Fast Fashion will help you to change your mindset, fall back in love with your wardrobe and embrace more sustainable ways of shopping - from the clothes swap to the charity shop. Full of refreshing honesty and realistic advice, Lauren will inspire you to repair, recycle and give your unloved items a new lease of life without sacrificing your style. Because fashion belongs to everyone, but no outfit should cost us the earth.

In The Fashion Reader, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun have selected 76 influential articles to offer insight into the critical theories and conversations that surround this huge international industry. Many of the essays are drawn from books, journals, magazines, and exhibition catalogues, bringing together new and established concepts to offer a solid grounding in the history, business and culture of fashion. Fourteen of the chapters were written expressly for this edition. For added context, each of the fifteen parts has an introduction from the editors, guiding you through the interdisciplinary world of fashion studies, and each part concludes with suggestions for further reading. This third edition has been substantially revised to highlight issues of sustainability, identity, the body, as well as global perspectives from "The Commodification of Ethnicity" to "The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing."

Fashion by Design, Second Edition, explains how the elements and principles of design relate to fashion, based on the philosophy of the Bauhaus Experiment of the 1920s and 1930s, which is the foundation for art education in the United States. The book is structured into three parts: the stages of the design process (inspiration, identification, conceptualization, exploration/refinement, definition/modeling, communication, and production); physical elements (such as line, shape, form, space, texture, light, pattern, color, and value); and theoretical principles (like balance, emphasis, rhythm, proportion, and unity) of design. This is reinforced by fashion designer profiles and illustrations covering art, architecture, and fashion. The book aims to improve the designer's eye for creating fashion and related art forms; to identify terminology used in the communication of fashion; and to show how other factors, such as the human form, clothing structure, historic silhouettes, fashion trends, culture, and industry trends, may impact the development of a line or a collection. New to this Edition: -A more user-friendly order of information, in a more condensed language style, with updated color visuals -Expanded section on the design process, with information on sustainable design -New creative assignments at the end of chapters with application to the fields of fashion design (including the development of a design journal), fashion merchandising (such as styling, product development, buying or trend research) and theater arts (such as costumes, sets, lighting) STUDIO Features: -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary - Downloadable "Paper Dolls" pdfs for students to interact with key concepts of the design process Instructor Resources: -PowerPoint (R) slides featuring key concepts from each chapter -Instructor's Guide with sample course outlines for teaching and tools for integrating the STUDIO with the course

*Selected by Emma Watson for her Ultimate Book List* Fashion is political. From the red carpets of the Met Gala to online fast fashion, clothes tell a story of inequality, racism and climate crisis. In The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion, Tansy E. Hoskins unpicks the threads of capitalist industry to reveal the truth about our clothes. Fashion brands entice us to consume more by manipulating us to feel ugly, poor and worthless, sentiments that line the pockets of billionaires exploiting colonial supply chains. Garment workers on poverty pay risk their lives in dangerous factories, animals are tortured, fossil fuels extracted and toxic chemicals spread just to keep this season's collections fresh. We can do better than this. Moving between Karl Lagerfeld and Karl Marx, The Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion goes beyond ethical fashion and consumer responsibility showing that if we want to feel comfortable in our clothes, we need to reshape the system and ensure this is not our last season.

Fashion is a dynamic global industry that plays an important role in the economic, political, cultural, and social lives of an international audience. It spans high art and popular culture, and plays a significant role in material and visual culture. This book introduces fashion's myriad influences and manifestations. Fashion is explored as a creative force, a business, and a means of communication. From Karl Lagerfeld's creative reinventions of Chanel's iconic style to the multicultural reference points of Indian designer Manish Arora, from the spectacular fashion shows held in nineteenth century department stores to the mix-and-match styles of Japanese youth, the book examines the ways that fashion both reflects and shapes contemporary culture. Using historical and contemporary examples, it gives a clear understanding of how fashion has developed since the renaissance, while raising questions about its status, ethical credibility, and influence on consumers. The book provides insight into the structure of the fashion industry and how fashions are designed, promoted and consumed, in relation to relevant historical, social and cultural contexts. It is structured thematically, to look at the role and development of designers, the growth of shopping and the different businesses involved in making and selling fashionable clothes. Fashion's relationship to the wider culture is also explored, by considering its representation in art and collaborations between designers and artists, the moral controversies surrounding fashion, and attempts to produce ethical clothing, and the effects of globalisation on the fashion trade. ABOUT THE SERIES: The Very Short Introductions series from Oxford University Press contains hundreds of titles in almost every subject area. These pocket-sized books are the perfect way to get ahead in a new subject quickly. Our expert authors combine facts, analysis, perspective, new ideas, and enthusiasm to make interesting and challenging topics highly readable.

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2021 From West African masquerades to Venetian carnivals and New York society galas, fancy dress has long been used to convey important social and political messages. The only form of clothing that all people, regardless of gender, race, class or sexuality are likely to wear at some point in their lives, fancy dress is a symbol of both escapism and protest; it stands for a vision of fantasy and fun, while also confronting the reality of cultural stereotypes. Exploring all the allure, playfulness and daring of dressing up, Carnival to Catwalk takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the global history of fancy dress. Drawing on a treasure-trove of textual and visual resources, the book encompasses Halloween festivities and transvestite clubs, Mardi Gras parades and gatherings at Versailles, revealing how fancy dress has long been used to celebrate as well as to disguise individual identity. Vividly chronicling evidence from the Middle Ages to the modern day, cultural historian Benjamin Wild throws open the historical dressing-up box and demonstrates the enduring appeal of fancy dress, as it becomes an increasingly central part of modern couture and clothing design. Meticulously researched and beautifully illustrated, Carnival to Catwalk is a remarkable resource for scholars, students and costume enthusiasts alike.

It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares 19th-century societies - France and the United States - where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late 20th-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how 19th-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and "Fashion and Its Social Agendas" stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion and consumer culture.

This book is available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. "A remarkable resource for the field of fashion studies suitable for both newcomers ... [and] seasoned practitioners." - Fashion Historia "A precious source in the study of the subject ... inspiring." - The Journal of Dress History The last decade has seen the growing popularity and visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions. This book explores the history of fashion displays, highlighting the continuity of past and present curatorial practices. Comparing and contrasting exhibitions from different museums and decades-from the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 to the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2011, and beyond-it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By critically analyzing trends in fashion exhibition practice over the 20th and early 21st centuries, Julia Petrov defines and describes the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American museum exhibitions. Rooted in extensive archival research on exhibitions by global leaders in the field-from the Victoria and Albert and the Bath Fashion Museum to the Brooklyn and the Royal Ontario Museums-the work reveals how fashion exhibitions have been shaped by the values and anxieties associated with fashion more generally. Supplemented by parallel critical approaches, including museological theory, historiography, body theory, material culture, and visual studies, Fashion, History, Museums demonstrates that in an increasingly corporate and mass-mediated world, fashion exhibitions must be analysed in a comparative and global context. Richly illustrated with 70 images, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion history and museology, as well as curators, conservators, and exhibition designers.

Here is an exciting new installment in a series from Schiffer Publishing illustrating fashion trends in America. These books are a fantastic resource for costume designers looking for new ideas to recreate an era, for collectors who want to broaden their search for vintage clothing, and for fashion designers looking to revive retro styles. From hats to handbags, and dresses to dungarees, this book brings to life every necessity of the late 1940s with authentic details from the original Sears catalogs. Displaying the fashions and trends of post-War America. The clothing reflects a social revitalization after years of hardship and strife, with an emphasis on children with the post-War baby boom, the influence of French and European styles, and a return to femininity for women following the 'Rosie the Riveter' era. Juniors' skirts flare in anticipation of circle skirts, complete with big motifs. Men's suits are flatteringly tailored to emphasize long torsos and narrow hips, and casual wear stresses a return to the concerns of bowling and hunting. An excellent visual reference, this book offers more than 300 full-color and black and white photographs, and thousands of items of clothing, shoes, and accessories, along with detailed descriptions. A guide to retail values for these items on today's market is included as well.

Turkey has witnessed remarkable sociocultural change under the regime of Recep Tayyip Erdogan and his Justice and Development Party (AKP), particularly regarding its religious communities. As individuals with pious identities have increasingly gained access to state power and accumulated economic influence, so religious appearances and practices have become more visible in Turkey's `secular' public spaces. More than this, consumption practices have changed and new Islamic and Islamist identities have emerged. This book investigates three of the most widespread faith-inspired communities in Turkey: the Gulen, Suleymanli and the Menzil. Nazli Alimen compares these communities, looking at their diverse interpretations of Islamic rules related to the body and dress, and how these different groups compete for power and control in Turkey. In tracing what motivates consumption practices, the book adds to the growing interest in the commercial aspects of modest and Islamic fashion. It also highlights the importance of clothing and bodily rituals (such as veiling, grooming and food choices) for the formation of community identities. Based on ethnographic research, Alimen analyses the relationship between the marketplace and religion, and shows how different communities interact with each other and state institutions. Of particular note are the varied expressions of Islamic masculinities and femininities at play. Appealing to a cross-disciplinary readership, the book will be relevant for scholars within Turkish Studies, Gender Studies, Islamic Studies, Fashion, Consumption Studies, Sociology of Religion and Middle Eastern Studies.

**THE SUNDAY TIMES BESTSELLER** From the star of Netflix's My Unorthodox Life, a riveting, inspiring memoir. Julia Haart tells the story of her extraordinary journey, from leaving an ultra-Orthodox Jewish community to her rise from housewife to shoe designer, to CEO and co-owner of the modelling agency Elite World Group. 'I congratulate Haart on the show and book, both of which I enjoyed ... Haart is a hustler, a born entrepreneur, charismatic enough to attract investment like a pop ingenue attracts talent scouts, a "fighter" (her words) and a woman who loves and understands fashion.' POLLY VERNON, THE TIMES 'An irresistible read . . . Written with great intensity and rare candor, Brazen is a story of longing for more and manifesting that vision.' TOMMY HILFIGER 'An ode to believing in yourself, believing in your dreams, and it being never too late to transform your life. Brazen, with its soul-bearing, cathartic style is set to inspire.' LOVEREADING EXPERT REVIEW Ever since she was a child, every aspect of Julia Haart's life - what she wore, what she ate, what she thought - was controlled by the rules of ultra-Orthodox Judaism. At nineteen, after a lifetime spent caring for her seven younger siblings, she was married off to a man she barely knew. For the next twenty-three years, her marriage would rule her life. Eventually, when Haart's youngest daughter, Miriam, started to innocently question why she wasn't allowed to sing in public, run in shorts, or ride a bike without being covered from neck to knee, Haart reached a breaking point. She knew that if she didn't find a way to leave, her daughters would be forced into the same unending servitude. So Haart created a double life. In the ultra- Orthodox world, clothing has one purpose - to cover the body, head to toe - and giving any more thought than that to one's appearance is considered sinful, an affront to God. But when no one was looking, Haart would pour over fashion magazines and sketch designs for the clothes she dreamed about wearing in the world beyond her Orthodox suburb. She started preparing for her escape by educating herself and creating a 'freedom' fund. At the age of forty-two, she finally mustered the courage to flee. Within a week of her escape, Haart founded a shoe brand, and within nine months, she was at Paris Fashion Week. Just a few years later, she was named creative director of La Perla. Soon she would become co-owner and CEO of Elite World Group and one of the most powerful people in fashion. Along the way, her four children - Batsheva, Shlomo, Miriam and Aron - have not only accepted but embraced her transformation. Propulsive and unforgettable, Haart's story is the journey from a world of 'no' to a world of 'yes', and an inspiration for women everywhere to find their freedom, their purpose and their voice. 'Julia lives her life with an exhilarating fervour that's contagious to anyone lucky enough to be around her. Never willing to accept the status quo, time and again she has fought for her place in the world and demanded her seat at the table. I'm incredibly inspired by her stories, which are always told with honesty and heart. This book is a must read!' COCO ROCHA 'Julia Haart is a hustler. Her story is an inspiring, believe-in-your-dreams, never-give-up, anything-in-life-is-possible story of hope. Run, don't walk, to get this book!' LISA RINNA

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, social construct. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, the book provides a complete exploration of the field, and features a wide range of international case studies which bring the theory to life. Updated with two new chapters on subcultures and the impact of technology, along with guides to further reading and a student guide to sociological research in fashion, this is essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, and cultural studies.

When we open our closet doors each morning, we seldom consider what our sartorial choices say, whether we tend toward jeans and a well-worn concert t-shirt or wingtips and a three-piece suit. Yet, how we dress divulges more than whether we crave comfort or couture; our clothing communicates who we are and how we relate to our culture. But how does a Balenciaga bag or a tough leather jacket topped by liberty spikes signify these things?
Fashion in Popular Culture considers this question. Combining fashion theory with approaches from literature, art, advertising, music, media studies, material studies, and sociology, contributors from across Europe, Australia, and the United States consider the function of fashion within popular culture. Fashion, they show, has the capacity to both influence and be influenced by popular culture, and its meaning is also contingent upon context. Chapters in the book cover both historical and contemporary concerns, addressing a variety of other questions, including the role fashion plays in subcultures.
For students and scholars of fashion and popular culture--or anyone fascinated by what clothing can convey--"Fashion in Popular Culture" offers an engaging, interdisciplinary analysis.

Over 700 illustrations, detailed descriptions, and prices for a vast array of upscale women's clothing and accessories appear among these highlights from rare 1920s B. Altman & Company catalogs. Stylized drawings of flappers depict sophisticated evening dresses, bathing suits, cloche hats, shoes, and much more. A selection of formal and casual attire for men and children appears as well. A first-rate, authentic style record of the Jazz Age. Over 700 black-and-white illus.

Enter an ultra-patriotic era of "military mood" fashions, replete in red, white, and blue. One in a series of books from Schiffer Publishing documenting fashion trends in America, this is an invaluable resource for fashion designers looking to revive and rework retro styles, for costume designers working to recreate an era, and for collectors and historians wanting to document vintage clothing. A visual treasure chest, this book offers more than 400 full-color photographs, with thousands of items of clothing, shoes, and accessories pictured, along with detailed descriptions. A guide to retail values for these items on today's market is featured as well.

Niche fashion magazines speak to a highly fashion literate readership and mix the codes of style magazines, glossy women's magazines and art catalogues. They are often produced and read by people engaged in the business of creating fashion taste. Through this business-to-business practice, the niche magazine genre is powerful in shaping the face of fashion. Based on unique analysis of niche fashion magazines and unprecedented access to the making of the respected Danish niche fashion magazine, DANSK, including interviews with its makers and its readers, this book unveils the behind-the-scenes of niche fashion magazines. It pays special attention to the symbolic and material cultures, as well as the values and meanings that are shared across magazine producers and their readers. It is a valuable contribution to the study and practice of fashion journalism, with appeal to students and readers of the increasingly popular high-end glossy magazines.

The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines and with a special focus on reconstruction. The third volume of this pioneering series explores the manufacture and trade of textiles and their practical, fashionable, and symbolic uses. Papers include in-depth studies and cross-genre scholarship representing such fields associal history, economics, art history, archaeology and literature, as well as the reconstruction of textile-making techniques. They range over England, Flanders, France, Germany, and Spain from the seventh to the sixteenth centuries, and address such topics as soft furnishings, ecclesiastical vestments, the economics of the wool trade, the making and use of narrow wares, symbolic reference to courtly dress in a religious text, and aristocratic children'sclothing. Also included are reviews of recent books on dress and textile topics. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on Western European dress, specializing in the depiction and interpretation of clothing by artists and historians. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at The University of Manchester and author of Dress in Anglo-Saxon England; she is the Director of an ARHC-fundedproject on cloth and clothing terminology in medieval Britain. CONTRIBUTORS: ELIZABETH COATSWORTH, SARAH LARRATT KEEFER, SUSAN LEIBACHER WARD, JOHN H. MUNRO, JOHN OLDLAN, LESLEY K. TWOMEY, ELIZABETH BENNS, LOIS SWALES, HEATHER BLATT, MELANIE SCHUESSLER

The dressmaking trade developed rapidly during the 18th and 19th centuries, changing the lives of thousands of British workers. Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid focuses on the trade and the people within it, from their working conditions and earnings to their training, services and relationships with customers. Exploring the lives of dressmakers in fact and fiction, the book looks at representations of the trade in the plays and novels of the time, while surveying the often harsh realities of the workers' lives. From the arrival of the sewing machine to the influence of the department store, it explores the impact of mechanization, commercialization and modernity on a historical trade. Pamela Inder illuminates a new world of dressmaking enabled by goods like paper patterns and magazines, and sets out to investigate the increasing monopoly of female dressmakers in an industry once dominated by male tailors. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources - including business records, diaries, letters, bills and newspaper articles - Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid reveals the untold story of the dressmaking trade. Beautifully illustrated with over 80 images, the book brings dressmakers into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.

How does a style become a fashion? Why do trends spread and decline? Introducing Fashion Theory explores these questions and more to help you quickly get up-to-speed with fashion theories, from scarcity to conformity, through clear practical examples and fascinating case studies. This second edition, re-titled from Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry, includes expanded coverage on cultural appropriation, corporate greenwashing, and the criminal world of counterfeit goods. - Illustrated examples, from Apple's post-postmodernist iWatch to Savage X Fenty's body image message on diversity - Covers core fashion theories, from trickle-down to trickle-up, to political dress and conspicuous consumption - Filled with learning activities, key terms, chapter summaries, and discussion questions to inspire and inform

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.