William Morris is well known for his unmistakable tapestries, furniture, fabrics, wallpaper and even stained glass. His work has now been used for over 150 years on many more decorative as well as functional products. The William Morris Everyday Pen Set from Galison include 3 capped pens decorated with iconic Morris patterns.

In recent years, the study of textiles and culture has become a dynamic field of scholarship, reflecting new global, material and technological possibilities. This is the first handbook of specially commissioned essays to provide a guide to the major strands of critical work around textiles past and present and to draw upon the work of artists and designers as well as researchers in textiles studies. The handbook offers an authoritative and wide-ranging guide to the topics, issues, and questions that are central to the study of textiles today: it examines how material practices reflect cross-cultural influences; it explores textiles' relationships to history, memory, place, and social and technological change; and considers their influence on fashion and design, sustainable production, craft, architecture, curation and contemporary textile art practice. This illustrated volume will be essential reading for students and scholars involved in research on textiles and related subjects such as dress, costume and fashion, feminism and gender, art and design, and cultural history. Cover image: Anne Wilson, To Cross (Walking New York), 2014. Site-specific performance and sculpture at The Drawing Center, NYC. Thread cross research. Photo: Christie Carlson/Anne Wilson Studio.

"It's an evocative, inspiring mood board of a book." - Andreina Cordani, Reclaim Magazine "Decorating with flowers - on everything from walls and windows to sofas and floors - will bring magic and romance to any space." - Mail on Sunday's You Magazine In the designs of Tricia Guild, atmosphere is everything. Patterns, colour, texture, furniture and furnishings interweave to create spaces that have all the depth and meaning of installation art. Yet just as an outfit never feels complete without a spritz of scent, a room without plants is only nearly complete. Only nearly perfect. At Designers Guild, Tricia Guild uses flowers, leaves and stems to enhance a room's mood, bringing soul to the spaces we live in. A flower has many spirits over the course of its life, from the promise of those first pristine and innocent buds, to the resplendent joy of full blooms and the wistful glory as they fade. The cycle of nature provides an ever-evolving muse for Tricia Guild. Her latest book explores how blooms can evoke emotion, presenting a plethora of inspirational designs that breathe fresh life into our homes and workspaces.

One of the most distinctive features of Islamic design is the evolution of an increasingly abstract and repetitive repertoire of motifs, which are shared among all media - metalwork, woodwork, ceramics, tilework and textiles. In textiles the main themes are based on angular and geometric shapes - vertical and horizontal striped bands; hexagons and octagons, which can be linked and infinitely extended; stylized and rhythmic scrolls of foliage and flowers; and Arabic calligraphy, of which the letters can be formed into continuous borders, panels and medallions. These motifs can be used separately or combined into complex patterns, of which the repetitive and two-dimensional features are ideal for textile production, especially where varying lengths are required - for hangings, curtains, robes and shawls. Valued for their role in the subtleties of court ceremonial and fashion, these textiles were also much admired beyond the Islamic lands. The exceptional collection published here ranges widely in region, material and technique. There are textiles and garments from North Africa, Syria, Arabia, Iran, Turkey and the Indian subcontinent linked by a shared vocabulary of ornament - evidence of the international nature of Islamic design. Materials represented are silk - the most prestigious of fibres, requiring highly respected weavers - wool, cotton and linen. Decoration is based on variations of weave and colour and embellishment through embroidery, printing and applique and illustrates the work of both professional and domestic workers. The strengths of the collection are concentrated in the textile production of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, which, thanks to the basically conservative nature of textile technique and design, preserve and continue the traditions established in the medieval Islamic world. They are important in an assessment of Islamic textiles both for their quality and as illustrations of survival and adaptation in a major industry. Their heritage reaches back well over a thousand years, even though their very high perishability means that for the earlier part of the tradition our knowledge is reliant very largely on written sources. These, however, attest to the superb quality and quantity of textiles at the courts of the period.

Collections of textiles-historic costume, quilts, needlework samplers, and the like-have benefited greatly from the digital turn in museum and archival work. Both institutional online repositories and collections-based social media sites have fostered unprecedented access to textile collections that have traditionally been marginalized in museums. How can curators, interpreters, and collections managers make best use of these new opportunities? To answer this question, the author worked with sites including the Great Lakes Quilt Center at the Michigan State University Museum, the Design Center at Philadelphia University, the International Quilt Study Center and Museum at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, and the WGBH Boston Media Library and Archives, as well as user-curated social sites online such as Tumblr and Polyvore, to create four compelling case studies on the preservation, access, curation, and interpretation of textile objects. The book explores: *The nature of digital material culture. *The role of audience participation versus curatorial authority online. *Audience-friendly collections metadata and tagging. *Visual, rather than text-based, searching and cataloging. *The legality of ownership and access of museum collections online. *Gender equity in museums and archives. This book is essential reading for anyone who cares for, collects, exhibits, or interprets historic costume or textile collections, but its broad implications for the future of museum work make it relevant for anyone with an interest in museum work online. And because the focus of this volume is theory and praxis, rather than specific technologies that are likely to become obsolete, it will be staple on your bookshelf for years to come.

This book features the original sample collection and handwritten drafts of the talented, early 20th century weaver, Bertha Gray Hayes of Providence, Rhode Island. She designed and wove miniature overshot patterns for four-harness looms that are creative and unique. The book contains color reproductions of 72 original sample cards and 20 recently discovered patterns, many shown with a picture of the woven sample, and each with computer-generated drawdowns and drafting patterns. Her designs are unique in their asymmetry and personal in her use of name drafting to create the designs. Bertha Hayes attended the first nine National Conferences of American Handweavers (1938-1946). She learned to weave by herself through the Shuttle-Craft home course and was a charter member of the Shuttle-Craft Guild, and authored articles on weaving.

For freshmen-level courses in Industrial Sewing, Introduction to Industry Methods, Sewn Product Techniques, Production Management, Workroom Techniques, and Beginning Apparel Construction. Sewing for the Apparel Industry, Second Edition, focuses on the fundamental principles of garment construction, the interrelationship of assembly methods, and the elements which the designer must consider at the outset of individual design creation. It details easy-to-master production operations, while emphasizing the equipment, practical skills, and sewing processes used in apparel manufacturing. Efficient and cost effective procedure descriptions complement material on the basic concept of design and desired quality, providing students with an understanding of various production methods and how they affect design decisions and relate to garment quality and labor and material costs.

A guide to harnessing the world of nature to create sustainable textile art. Textile artist Alice Fox shows how to work with found, foraged, gathered and grown materials to create fabulous textile pieces that are inspired by, and made from, nature. She encourages crafters to be open minded and experimental, using local (and sometimes) unconventional materials, working with the seasons and learning what materials are available at different times of year to ground artists in natural cycles and integrate creative activity with a strong sense of place and character. Alongside advice on growing your own plants (such as flax or nettles) for creative work, the book is packed with practical ideas for foraging - from weeds, dandelions and other plants useful for making cordage, or leaves that can be stitched, quilted and shaped into vessels, to grass, wool, plastics and mud that can be gathered and delightfully repurposed by the textile artist. Other ideas for found materials include stones, shells and wood that can be wrapped or woven into, as well as a multitude of urban treasures that find a new life in creative hands. Alongside advice on growing your own plants (such as flax or nettles) for creative work, the book is packed with practical ideas for foraging - from weeds, dandelions and other plants useful for making cordage, or leaves that can be stitched, quilted and shaped into vessels, to grass, wool, plastics and mud that can be gathered and delightfully repurposed by the textile artist. Other ideas for found materials include stones, shells and wood that can be wrapped or woven into, as well as a multitude of urban treasures that find a new life in creative hands.

Crochet your own costumes, familiar creatures, and classic artifacts from the Harry Potter films in this follow up companion to the bestselling Harry Potter: Knitting Magic. Conjure the magic of the Wizarding World with your crochet hook with this deluxe collection of more than 20 official patterns for toys, keepsakes, and costume replicas inspired by the Harry Potter films. A comprehensive, officially licensed guide to crocheting the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Harry Potter: Crochet Wizardry includes projects for every skill level and a wide range of stitches and techniques featuring yarn expertly matched to the true colors used in the films. Harry Potter: Crochet Wizardry also includes behind-the-scenes facts and quotes from the films, as well as concept art and film stills to inspire your creativity and relive favorite movie moments. With beautiful full-color photography, step-by-step instructions, and clearly presented charts and schematics, Harry Potter: Crochet Wizardry is the ultimate crocheter's guide to the Wizarding World.

In the ancient city of Kyoto, contemporary artisans and designers are using heritage techniques and traditional clothing aesthetics to reinvent wafuku (Japanese clothing, including kimono) for modern life. Japan Beyond the Kimono explores these shifts, highlighting developments in the Kyoto fashion industry such as its integration of digital weaving and printing techniques and the influence of social media on fashion distribution systems. Through case studies of designers, artisans, and retailers, Jenny Hall provides a comprehensive picture of the reasons behind the production and consumption of these rejuvenated fashion goods. She argues that conceptualisations of Japanese tradition include innovation and change, which is vital to understanding how Japanese cultural heritage is both sustained and evolving. Essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and Japanese studies, Jenny Hall's sensory ethnography is the first of its kind, describing the lived experiences of people in the Kyoto textiles industry, explaining the renewal of traditional techniques and styles, and placing them both within contexts such as transnational 'craftscapes' and fast or slow fashion systems.

This book explores interconnections between high literary modernism and the revolution in dress design of the early twentieth century. During this time, new and «liberated» lifestyles created a bond among figures as diverse as writers and fashion editors, painters and art critics, photographers and models, dancers and economists – all of whom were in different ways looking at new «inventive clothes» (Vreeland) as life experiences. Starting points of the research are Pirandello’s One, no one, and one hundred thousand, where the protagonist’s disowning of his own image in the mirror ignites a tragedy, and Roger Fry’s essays on the resuscitation of Victorianism at the end of the First World War, where the phantasmagoria of time is identified as the basis for modern illusion. Each chapter in the book explores a different facet of the same topic: the distance between self and image as the dispenser or destroyer of enchantment. This issue was actively pursued by philosophers (Benjamin), writers (Woolf, Mansfield, Fitzgerald), photographers (Man Ray, Cecil Beaton) and fashion critics (Vreeland). The evolution in fashion editing was meanwhile instructing the sophisticated readers of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in the art of contemplating their own reflections in the mirror and seeing in them exactly what they wanted to see. The Natasha of the title is Tolstoy’s heroine, a secret spring of creative energy for Katherine Mansfield, and the source of one of Diana Vreeland’s most perceptive insights into the nature of fashion.

This second edition of 'Textile Conservator's Manual', now revised and available in paperback, provides an in-depth review of the current practice, ethics and materials used in textile conservation. Concentrating on decorative art objects from the major cultures, the book gives practical instruction and a wide variety of case histories. While the format has been simplified, the text has been expanded and updated to include changes bought about by recent developments in the conservation of material. This new information will increase the reader's ability to interpret signs of ageing and past activity on the object. New case histories in Part Two represent major investigations into the technical history. A basis is provided from which to develop practical skills, taking into account the needs of the object, its essential characteristics of appearance and, above all, its structure. The book covers a wide range of decorative objects, from a fragment of linen 4000 years old to a theatrical backcloth of the twentieth century. This book is practical and thought-provoking, not only about what is being done and how, but also why.

This beautiful and inspirational book written by a doyenne of British textile design explores the art of painting and making patterns on cloth. Fabrics bring colour and vibrance to our lives, adding inventiveness and charm to both our clothes and our domestic interiors. In this book, lifelong textile designer Sarah Campbell takes you through her world of pattern and colour to uncover the joys of design from dots, stripes and checks to more surprising decorative solutions. Beautifully illustrated with Sarah's colourful and internationally acclaimed work, her fabric designs show the comforting rhythm and universal language of pattern. - Learn how to create your own unique designs using a range of tools and techniques including brushes and potato-cuts, stencils and simple 'kitchen cupboard' resists. - Explore the delights of painting on different fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk and calico/muslin. - Develop your understanding of scale, colour, tonality and the organisation of pattern ideas, alongside suggestions on how to use your finished fabrics.

A colourfully illustrated guide to the traditional and contemporary textile skills of hooking, prodding, punching and tufting, to fire your imagination, and to discover ideas for eco-friendly crafting. - Contains 20 vibrant step-by-step projects exploring playful design and quirky creativity, including rugs, cushions, bags and personal accessories. - Conserves resources through imaginative re-use of all kinds of materials - from recycled clothing, food packaging and plastics, to junk jewellery and surplus yarn. - Includes examples of community projects and an inspirational gallery of work by notable artists from around the world.

This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of "Layla and Majnun" and "Khusrau and Shirin" that appear on early modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural designs, the study presents original cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.

Textiles are the most ubiquitous, diverse, and consistently creative art form on the planet. This major new work comprises more than one thousand images that highlight the beauty, subtlety, simplicity, or complexity of textiles created around the world. Based on knowledge accrued over a lifetime of immersion in the textile arts, Mary Schoeser s definitive text offers sweeping insight into the role that textiles have played throughout human civilization. The juxtaposition of historical and contemporary examples highlights the skill and imagination of textile designers through the centuries as well as the remarkable range of achievements. Detailed images and informed captions illustrate the variety and allure of textiles, and the informative descriptions include histories of private collections, underscoring the importance of context for appreciating the exquisite detail of fabric and cloth. An extensive resource section provides valuable information about museum and textile associations across the globe."

Louisiana Coushatta Basket Makers brings together oral histories, tribal records, archival materials, and archaeological evidence to explore the fascinating history of the Coushatta Tribe's famed basket weavers. After settling at their present location near the town of Elton, Louisiana, in the 1880s, the Coushatta (Koasati) tribe developed a basket industry that bolstered the local tribal economy and became the basis for generating tourism and political mobilization. The baskets represented a material culture that distinguished the Coushattas as Indigenous people within an ethnically and racially diverse region. Tribal leaders serving as diplomats also used baskets as strategic gifts as they built political and economic allegiances throughout the twentieth century, thereby securing the Coushattas' future. Behind all these efforts were the basket makers themselves. Although a few Coushatta men assisted in the production of baskets, it was mostly women who put in the long hours to gather and process the materials, then skillfully stitch them together to produce treasures of all shapes and sizes. The art of basket making exists within a broader framework of Coushatta traditional teachings and educational practices that have persisted to the present. As they tell the story of Coushatta basket makers, Linda P. Langley and Denise E. Bates provide a better understanding of the tribe's culture and values. The weavers' own ""language of baskets"" shapes this narrative, which depicts how the tribe survived repeated hardships as weavers responded on their own terms to market demands. The work of Coushatta basket makers represents the perseverance of traditional knowledge in the form of unique and carefully crafted fine art that continues to garner greater recognition and appreciation with every successive generation.

For courses in Textile Science, Textile Fundamentals, Introduction to Textiles, Textiles for Interiors, or other courses that focus on basic textiles. A revered resource, Textiles, Elevnth Edition, by Sara Kadolph, provides students with a basic knowledge of textiles, how they are produced and how appropriate performance characteristics are incorporated into materials and products. Organized according to the textile production process, the text provides a solid understanding of textile components-including fibers, yarns, fabrics, and finishes. Using new full-color photos and illustrations, it examines the interrelationships among these components and their impact on product performance. This edition features coverage of new fibers, updated industry and company examples and summary tables that make this a timeless resource for any industry professional. Also discusses the new effects of sustainablity in the industry.

Quilting, once regarded as a traditional craft, has broken through the barriers of history, art and commerce to become a global phenomenon, international multi-billion dollar industry and means of gendered cultural production. In Quilting, sociologist and quilter Marybeth C. Stalp explores how and why women quilt.
This close ethnographic study illustrates that women's lives can be transformed in often surprising ways by the activity and art of quilting. Some women who quilt as a leisure pastime are too afraid to admit to being a quilter for fear of ridicule; others boldly identify themselves as quilters and regard it as part of their everyday lives.
The place of quilting in women's lives affects core family and personal identity issues such as marriage, childcare, friendship and aging. The book's accessible and intimate portrayal of real quilters' lives provides a fabric for the sociology, anthropology and textile student to understand more about wider issues of cultural production and identity that stem from this very personal pastime.

Rejecting traditional notions of what constitutes art, this book brings together essays on a variety of fiber arts to recoup women's artistic practices by redefining what counts as art. Although scholars over the last twenty years have turned their attention to fiber arts, redefining the conditions, practices, and products as art, there is still much work to be done to deconstruct the stubborn patriarchal art/craft binary. With essays on a range of fiber art practices, including embroidery, knitting, crocheting, machine stitching, rug making, weaving, and quilting, this collection contributes to the ongoing scholarly redefinition of women's relationship to creative activity. Focusing on women as producers of cultural products and creators of social value, the contributors treat women as active subjects and problematize their material practices and artifacts in the complex world of textiles. Each essay also examines the ways in which needlework both performs gender and, in turn, constructs gender. Moreover, in concentrating on and theorizing material practices of textiles, these essays reorient the study of fiber arts towards a focus on process"the making of the object, including the conditions under which it was made, by whom, and for what purpose"as a way to rethink the fiber arts as social praxis.

An evocative exploration of how travel - local and far away - can inform, inspire and enhance textile art. Travel has always featured heavily in textile art, from artists’ ‘travelling sketchbooks’ to large-scale installations mapping coastal erosion or the effects of climate change. In this book, renowned textile artist Anne Kelly shows how to capture your travels, past and present, in stitch, with practical techniques sitting alongside inspiring images. She begins the book by discussing maps in textile art, including their iconography as well as incorporating actual maps into textile work. She then goes on to explore the influence of different cultures from across the globe on textile art. From India and Peru to Scotland and Scandinavia, the book shows how to harness traditional techniques, fabrics, motifs and colours for use in your own work. The chapter ‘Stopping Places’ captures the moments in time on a journey that can be distilled, remembered and documented to create stitched postcards, sketchbooks and other pieces. The final chapter, ‘Space and the Imagination’, explores the possibilities of space travel as a source of inspiration, and covers inner space too, with artists mapping their own emotional journeys. Including a wealth of practical tricks and techniques as well as exquisite photography of both Anne’s own work and that of other leading textile artists, this fascinating book will inspire all textile artists, embroiderers and makers to use past travels to influence their work.

This book interprets the fiber art and craft-inspired sculpture by eight US and Latin American women artists whose works incite embodied affective experience. Grounded in the work of Gilles Deleuze and Felix Guattari, John Corso-Esquivel posits craft as a material act of intuition. The book provocatively asserts that fiber art-long disparaged in the wake of the high-low dichotomy of late Modernism-is, in fact, well-positioned to lead art at the vanguard of affect theory and twenty-first-century feminist subjectivities.