This unique text offers a holistic, insightful and timely exploration of sustainable practices across the fashion industry.

The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors’ newResponsible 9 Framework™, providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation’s people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community. Next addressed is thePerceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication, where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life.

Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

Table of Contents

LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS

FOREWORD

The book and its associated content are introduced by Andrea De Santis, who is part of the Global McKinsey AF&L team. He specialises in the retail sector, currently leading the AF&L practice in the Italian office.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS　

INTRODUCTION

So what does sustainability mean in the fashion business now?

The emergence of the mindful "Eco-Conscious Consumer"

Expert Insight from Disha Daswaney

From planned obsolescence to circular systems

Dissecting and understanding the 7P’s

Introducing THE RESPONSIBLE 9 FRAMEWORK

Objective of the book and how the book structured　

References and further reading

CHAPTER 1　- CONSCIOUS ITEM

Expert insight from Charlotte Turner

Responsible Fashion Design

Expert insight from Massimo Casagrade

Textiles and Fibres

Dyes

Expert insight from Karen Spurgin

Slow fashion

Expert insight from Jeffery Heilgers

Key takeaways

References and further reading

CHAPTER 2 - CIRCULAR SERVICES

The Product Life Cycle: The post purchase necessity　　

Turning waste and deadstock into new items

Circular ranges and products from plastic

Increasing the lifespan of a garment through aftercare

Repair

Buy and give back schemes

Preserving the archive

Expert insight from Andrew Groves

Second hand market　

Expert insight from Felix Krueger

Expert insight from Gemma A Williams

The Sharing Economy　

The consumer as the investor

The new conscious priority

Expert insight from Laura Coppen and Daniel Newton

Key takeaways

References and further reading　

CHAPTER 3 - COMMUNITY　

Expert insight from Craig Crawford,

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR)

Introducing the CITREC Framework for CSR

Expert insight from Lisa Nann

Mission Statements

Diversity in the workplace

Expert insight from Mathew Dixon

Equal representation in marketing and advertising　

Volunteer programs

The role of education

Expert insight from Liliana Sanguino Ramirez

Key takeaways

References and further reading　

CHAPTER 4 - PERCEIVED VALUE

Typical price strategy

Transparent pricing - the importance in communicating the true cost to the consumer

Expert insight from Mytro Angelidou

Connecting with credible causes aligned to your brand proposition　

Volunteer programs

Expert insight from Lucy Litwack

Charitable donations

Expert insight from Erica Charles

Key takeaways

References and further reading　

CHAPTER 5 - ACCOUNTABLE SYSTEMS　

Responsible Sourcing and Supply Chain

Upstream and Downstream

The challenges with the Supply Chain

Expert insight from Archana Chandrasekar

The deep layers of the fashion supply chain

The need for ACCOUNTABLE SYSTEMS

Unacceptable practice exposed

Emissions

Carbon Neutral

Carbon Negative

Net Zero

Sustainable transportation

Innovations

Expert insight from James Clark

QR Codes

On Demand Manufacturing

Expert insight from Joanne Yulan Jong

Packaging

Biodegradable sustainable packaging solutions

Reusable packaging

Packaging free

Solutions　

Expert insight from Amy Kim

Key insights

References and further reading

CHAPTER 6 - GREEN ENVIRONMENT　

The move to green and more environmentally friendly stores

Zero waste

Store interiors

Clothes hangers　

Mannequins

The 5 R’s Hierarchy, Bell, 2020

Expert insight from Patsy Perry

Energy efficient lighting

Renewable energy　

Key takeaways

References and further reading

CHAPTER 7 - GOVERNANCE　

Organisations　

Expert insight from M. Fernanda Hernandez Franco

Certifications　

Certification companies

Activist groups

CHAPTER 8 - HONEST COMMUNICATION

What is Greenwashing?

Green marketing & communication　

The New Green Marketing Paradigm, Ottman, 2011

Ottman’s 7 Winning Strategies for Green Marketing, Ottman 2011

Transparent communication

Expert Insight from Peter Rees　

The changing consumer　

AIDA Marketing Model, Lewis, 1898

Expert Insight from Martin Deal

Responsible consumption

Expert insight from Veronica Bates Kassatly

Equal representation in marketing and advertising　

Multicultural and inclusive marketing　

The following expert insight, provided from photographer Darren Black

Influencer marketing

Expert insight from Giorgia Pagliuca　

Brand activism and cause marketing strategies

Key insights

References and further reading

CHAPTER 9 - STORYTELLING PLATFORMS　

Expert insight from Nick Pye

Storytelling retail spaces

Retailers showing genuine inclusive behaviour on the shop floor

Expert insight by Vittorio Cosma and Mario Innocente

Manifestos

Communicating commitments in store

Local stores

Expert insight by Rae Sims

Live streaming shopping experience

Podcasting

Expert insight by Samara Croci

Key insights

References and further reading

INDEX

As a relatively young subject matter, corporate social responsibility has unsurprisingly developed and evolved in numerous ways since the first edition of this textbook was published. Retaining the features which made the first edition a top selling text in the field, the new edition continues to be the only textbook available which provides a ready-made, enhanced course pack for CSR classes.

Authoritative editor introductions provide accessible entry points to the subjects covered - an approach which is particularly suited to advanced undergraduate and postgraduate teaching that emphasises a research-led approach. New case studies are integrated throughout the text to enable students to think and analyze the subject from every angle. The entire textbook reflects the global nature of CSR as a discipline and further pedagogical features include chapter learning outcomes; study questions; ‘challenges for practice’ boxes and additional ‘further reading’ features at the end of each chapter.

This highly rated textbook now also benefits from a regularly updated companion website which features a brand new 'CSR Case Club' presenting students and lecturers with further case suggestions with which to enhance learning; lecture slides; updates from the popular Crane and Matten blog, links to further reading and career sites, YouTube clips and suggested answers to study questions.

An Ivey CaseMate has also been created for this book at https://www.iveycases.com/CaseMateBookDetail.aspx?id=335.

Table of Contents

Part I: Understanding CSR 1. Corporate Social Responsibility in a Global Context 2. The Case for and Against CSR 3. What is CSR?: Concepts and Theories 4. Responsibilities to Stakeholders Part II: Applying CSR 5. CSR in the Marketplace 6. CSR in the Workplace 7. CSR in the Community 8. CSR and the Ecological Environment Part III: Managing CSR 9. CSR Reporting and Auditing 10. Developing CSR Strategy 11. CSR Partnerships and Self-Regulation 12. The Future of CSR in a Global Context

How organisations listen, learn, and adapt to their environment drives success and long-term sustainability. This book focuses on internal stakeholders and how employers can use the voice of their people to improve decision-making, innovation, and performance. It is about why listening to employees matters and how to do it well.

Leading the Listening Organisation reveals not just the practices and processes that underpin effective listening but also the leadership characteristics and mindsets necessary to create resilient organisations that feel fair to work in, where people want to speak up, and where new ideas can flourish. It is based on extensive international research with leaders across over 500 organisations before, during, and after the pandemic. The authors bring decades of international experience and expertise in communicating with employees across public, private, and third sector organisations. Rich in practical tools, processes, and working frameworks and brought to life with case studies and insights from leaders and communicators, this book provides a complete guide to understanding the barriers to, and implementation plans for, leading a listening organisation.

This comprehensive guide will resonate with leadership, internal communications, human resources, and organisational development professionals.

Table of Contents

1. The advent of the listening age 2. Why listening matters 3. The barriers to effective listening 4. How to listen 5. Digital listening 6. Employee resource groups and activism 7. The role of leadership 8. Developing an employee listening climate 9. Leadership listening: A new approach for an era of uncertainty

How do you tailor education to the learning needs of adults? Do they learn differently from children? How does their life experience inform their learning processes? These were the questions at the heart of Malcolm Knowles’ pioneering theory of andragogy which transformed education theory in the 1970s. The resulting principles of a self-directed, experiential, problem-centred approach to learning have been hugely influential and are still the basis of the learning practices we use today.

Understanding these principles is the cornerstone of increasing motivation and enabling adult learners to achieve. The 10th edition of The Adult Learner has been revised to include:

The two chapters on diversity, inclusion and belonging in adult learning, and andragogy and the online adult learner have been greatly expanded to reflect the importance of these topics to the field today.

The accompanying Instructor and Student Resources website provides free digital materials designed to enhance student learning and save instructors time when preparing lessons. Resources include:

• Ready-to-use PowerPoint slides to save instructor time when planning lessons

• Learning objectives and part outlines for structured learning

• Suggested class discussions, exercises, and scenario-based activities

• Downloadable instruments for chapters 19 to 22

• Video explaining the Andragogy In Practice model

• A chapter-by-chapter Instructor Manual and a corresponding Student Guide to enhance learning outcomes.

If you are a researcher, practitioner, or student in education, an adult learning practitioner, training manager, or involved in human resource development, this is the definitive book in adult learning you should not be without.

Table of Contents

PART 1 Adult Learning 1. Introduction to Adult Learning 2. Exploring the World of Learning Theory 3. Andragogy: A Theory of Adult Learning 4. The Andragogical Process Model for Learning 5. Andragogy in Practice PART 2 The Backdrop of Learning and Teaching Theories 6. Theories of Learning 7. Theories of Teaching 8. Adult Learning Within Human Resource Development PART 3 Advancements in Adult Learning 9. New Perspectives on Andragogy 10. Beyond Andragogy 11. Diversity, Equity, Inclusion, and Belonging in Adult Education 12. Neuroscience and Andragogy 13. Andragogy and Adult Online Learning 14. Effective Computer-Based Instruction for Adults PART 4 International and Future Perspectives on Andragogy 15. European Perspectives on Adult Learning (Contributed by John A. Henschke and Mary Cooper) 16. Andragogy: International History, Meaning, Context, and Function (contributed by Jost Reischmann) 17. The Future of Andragogy Part 5 Tools and Resources for Implementing Andragogy 18. Andragogical Learner Analysis Using the Andragogy in Practice Framework 19. Andragogy in Practice Inventory (contributed by Reid A. Bates) 20. Guidelines for the Using Learning Contracts 21. Core Competency Diagnostic and Planning Guide 22. Personal Adult Learning Style Inventory

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Public-sector organizations are fundamentally different from their private-sector counterparts. They are part of the society’s political organizations and are major political actors. They are multifunctional, follow a political leadership and the majority do not operate in an external market. In an era of rapid reform, reorganization and modernization of the public sector, this book offers a timely and illuminating introduction to the public-sector organization that recognizes its unique values, interests, knowledge and power base.

Drawing on both instrumental and institutional perspectives within organization theory, as well as democratic theory and empirical studies of decision-making, the book addresses five central aspects of the public-sector organization:

■ goals, values and motivation

■ leadership and steering

■ reform and change

■ effects, learning and implications

■ understanding and design

The book challenges conventional economic analysis of the public sector, arguing instead for a political-democratic approach and a new prescriptive organization theory. A rich resource of both theory and practice, Organization Theory and the Public Sector: Instrument, Culture and Myth is essential reading for anybody studying the public sector.

This second edition of the book contains a range of new and updated themes, examples and references.

Table of Contents

1 Organization theory for the public sector

2 An instrumental perspective

3 A cultural perspective

4 A myth perspective

5 Goals, values and motivation

6 Leadership and steering

7 Reform and change

8 Effects, learning and implications

9 Understanding and design

Index

In a rapidly changing world, with increasing competition in all sectors of transportation, railways are currently restructuring their planning, management, and technology. As commercial and pricing policies change and new methods of organization are introduced, a more entrepreneurial spirit is required. At the same time, new high-speed tracks are being constructed and old tracks are being renewed, magnetic levitation trains are in operation, hyperloop systems are being planned, high-comfort rolling stock vehicles are being introduced, logistics and combined transport are being developed. Awareness of environmental issues and the search for greater safety attribute a new role to the railways within the transportation system. Meanwhile, methods of analysis have evolved significantly, principally due to computer applications, the internet revolution, satellite technologies, and artificial intelligence, all of which offer new ways of thinking about and addressing old problems.

Railway Planning, Management, and Engineering aims to fulfill the need for a new scientific approach for railways. It is intended to be of use to railway planners, managers, economists, engineers, and students in engineering, transportation, economics, and management. The book is divided into three parts, which deal successively with planning, management, track, rolling stock, safety, and the environment.

Table of Contents

Preface

List of Abbreviations

1. Railways and Transport

2. High Speeds, Magnetic Levitation and Hyperloop

3. Policy and Legislation

4. Forecast of Rail Demand

5. Costs and Pricing

6. Planning and Management of Railways

7. The Track System

8. Mechanical Behavior of Track

9. Subgrade - Geotechnical and Hydrogeological Analysis

10. The Rail

11. Sleepers – Fastenings

12. Ballast

13. Transverse Effects – Derailment

14. Track Layout

15. Switches, Tracks in Stations, Marshaling Yards

16. Laying and Maintenance of Track

17. Slab Track

18. Train Dynamics

19. Rolling Stock

20. Diesel and Electric Traction, Hydrogen Trains

21. Signaling – Automations – Interoperability

22. Safety - Level Crossings

23. Enviromental Effects of Railways

List of References

Index

Now in its fourth edition, the bestselling, seminal book by James Flaherty, Coaching: Evoking Excellence in Others, is an insightful, thought-provoking, pragmatic guide that dissects the art and science of coaching.

This fourth edition includes two brand new chapters: the first is on finding one’s inner guidance and purpose in traversing the world of work, especially in more uncertain working environments; and the second is on the topic of somatic intelligence. As in earlier editions, this foundational book in coaching clearly presents the theories, concepts, and models, and then moves on to consider rigorous methods of practice and self-observation in a relationship of mutual trust, respect, and freedom of expression. It will probe you to rethink how you relate to your clients and your staff, how you produce long-term excellent performance in yourself, and how you can become more effective in helping others to achieve their goals.

Coaching, Fourth Edition is a rich learning resource guide for new and experienced coaches who want to challenge their methods of partnering with clients. It is also an inspiring guide for training managers and leaders, human resource development managers, and general managers who want to develop their teams.

Table of Contents

1. The Foundation for Coaching 2. Basic Principles 3. The Flow of Coaching 4. The Coaching Relationship 5. Openings 6. Assessment Models 7. How Things Really Get Done 8. Enrollment 9. Coaching Conversations 10. Stuck 11. Midlife Drift 12. Somatic Intelligence: The Missing Piece in Adult Development 13. Getting in Condition for Change 14. Track Two: Working with Ourselves

Entrepreneurship is often focused on understanding new ventures, but the entrepreneurial flame is required in growing organisations too. This textbook examines how organisations can become more entrepreneurial to achieve sustainable growth.

The authors show how entrepreneurship can be used to address crisis points of growth within small firms and to overcome the limitations of stagnation within large firms. By integrating entrepreneurship and innovation management, the book presents a framework to diagnose entrepreneurial behaviour within existing firms. Drawing upon research and reflecting practice across a range of industries, from football, through Silicon Valley, to the retail sector, it includes insights from leading practitioners.

The authors build an understanding of entrepreneurship in context to provide diagnostic tools to help organisations make entrepreneurship central to their culture. This unique text is therefore useful reading for business students from advanced undergraduate to executive education.

Table of Contents

1. How to Build an Entrepreneurial Organisation

2. Entrepreneurial Strategy

3. Strategy in Practice: insights from an entrepreneurial multinational

4. Entrepreneurial Culture and Leadership: structure, processes and people

5. Building a Culture of Entrepreneurship in Practice

6. Entrepreneurship with External Stakeholders

7. Managing Uncertainty and Failure

8. Building an Ambidextrous Organisation

9. Diagnosing an Entrepreneurial Change Programme

This book provides a holistic and accessible approach to sustainable fashion management. It offers an interdisciplinary and practical outlook, combining theory with practical application from a management perspective and underpinned by the Sustainable Development Goals throughout.

The book helps students to gain a better understanding of what sustainable fashion is and how it is implemented across the fashion industry, through business model innovations, innovative designs, new technology and digital approaches, and material innovations. Global case studies are employed throughout each chapter, including fashion companies and events of all sizes, alongside other pedagogical features to aid learning, including key learning points, chapter objectives, and textboxes explaining key terminology.

This is an essential textbook for those investigating sustainable fashion, whether from a design or management perspective, providing the knowledge and tools for a future career. It is designed to serve Fashion Business and Management, Fashion Marketing, Fashion Buying and Merchandising and Fashion Technology courses, at all levels, and will also be valuable reading for those already working within the fashion industry and studying for professional qualifications. Online resources include chapter-by-chapter PowerPoint slides and a test bank.

Table of Contents

Foreword

Part 1 – Management of Sustainable Fashion

Chapter 1

Emergence Of Sustainability And Its Management In The Fashion Industry

Management – art and science

Sustainability – definitions and meaning

Sustainability in fashion and sustainable fashion

Importance of sustainable fashion in the 21st century

Chapter 2

Sustainable Fashion – Company Perspective

Sustainability as a strategy

Issues in the fashion industry surrounding sustainable fashion

Case study - Understanding sustainability and value – the example of We Are Knitters

Chapter 3

Sustainable Fashion – consumer view

Sustainable fashion and consumer perceptions

New developments in sustainable fashion

Chapter 4

Circular economy

Evolution of the circular economy

Case study: Thinking outside the box – the example of Freitag

Business model innovations

The circular economy – zero waste fashion

Zero Waste Fashion – Pre-consumer Approaches

Zero Waste Fashion – Post-consumer Approaches

Opportunities and barriers to the circular economy

Case Study: Circularity in the Fashion Industry – The example of Hetty Rose

　

Part 2 Managing sustainable fashion through design

Foreword

Chapter 1

2.1 New system understanding for design

2.1.1 Redesigning industrial design processes

Chapter 2

2.2. Design for a circular economy

2.2.1. Intentional design for recycling

2.2.2 Design for alternative business models

Chapter 3

Slowing down the fashion system through design

Slow fashion and garment lifetimes

Designing value for secondhand fashion

Chapter 4

Designing carbon-neutral fashion

Responsibility, safety, and risk management

Transparency and code of conduct

Clean chemistry and ethical fashion

Control, trust, and crisis management

Chapter 5

Fashion design in a new paradigm

　

Part 3: Sustainability, Fashion, and Technology

Foreword

Chapter 1

3.1.1 The current scenario for fashion retail: from multichannel to omnichannel

3.1.1.1 The role of technology in omnichannel retailing

3.1.1.2 Consumer’ intake about the use of technology

3.1.1.3 Digital channels

3.1.2 The use of technology to promote sustainable behaviours

3.1.3 The importance of sustainability communication

Chapter 2

3.2 Digital Sustainability

3.2.1 Introduction

3.2.2 The impact of online shopping: returns

3.2.3 The nature of online shopping: the importance of touch and vision

3.2.4 The role of specific technologies

3.2.4.1 Image Interactive Technology

3.2.5. Sustainability communication and digital channels

3.2.5.1. The importance of narrative strategies in social media communication

3.2.6. Key developments and industry practices

Chapter 3

3.3 Digital Fashion

3.3.1. What is digital fashion?

3.3.1.1 Digital Fashion

3.3.1.2 Non fungible tokens (NFTs)

3.3.1.3Digital Fashion Marketplaces

3.3.1.4 The Metaverse

3.3.1.5 Digital Fashion Shows

3.3.2 Will digital fashion become mainstream? The importance of communication

3.3.3. Key developments and industry practices

3.3.4 Case Studies

Part 4: Material Innovations in Sustainable Fashion

Foreword

Chapter 1

4.1 Fibre Selection

4.1.1. 20th Century Production

4.1.2 Natural Fibres

4.1.2.1 Plant Fibres

4.1.2.2 Animal Fibres

4.1.2.3 Man-made (Manufactured) Fibres

4.1.3. 21st Century Developments

4.1.4. Case Study Task - Alternative fibres for textile production - Bananatex®

Chapter 2

4.2 Fabric Creation

4.2.1 Preparation of Raw Materials

4.2.2 Woven Fabrics

4.2.3 Knitted Fabrics

4.2.4 Nonwoven Fabrics

4.2.4.1 Leather

4.2.4.2. Case Study Task – The knitted jumper that used to be a pair of woven jeans – Innovations in Fabric Construction by We Are Knitters

Chapter 3

4.3 Fabric Finishes and Surface Design

4.3.1 Fabric Colouration – Overview

4.3.2 Fabric Preparation

4.3.3 Application of Colourants

4.3.4 Innovative Approach to Colouration

4.3.5 Case Study – Sustaina-jeans Innovation Capsule

　

While the morale of an organization is an intangible element composed of feelings and attitudes of individuals and groups, the effects of morale include tangible and extremely important factors such as profits, efficiency, quality, and productivity. Low morale and its costliest indicator, high turnover, can be a tremendous drain on a company's finances. Managers often view morale as mysterious and unpredictable, when in fact it is a measurable, controllable expense. The High Cost of Low Morale explores the underlying causes of low morale and offers you field-proven, practical methods for increasing morale and reducing turnover in your organization.

This book is directly aligned to the NEBOSH Certificate in Environmental Management, which is a qualification aimed primarily at those in business who influence the environmental performance of their organisation by the decisions that they make as managers or the actions that they take as operators. This book aims to provide an introduction to the main areas of concern and how the challenges can be addressed.

This new edition takes account of recent changes in international guidance and legislation and the recent update of the International Standard in Environmental Management ISO 14001. The contents are important for businesses that wish to stay within the law and avoid adverse publicity. It explains how the concept of sustainability can be achieved in practice and what benefits – especially financial – that can accrue. Recent developments in the definitions of sustainability and the growing interest in the circular economy are introduced. It pays to be ahead of the game because decisions made now need to reflect an awareness of the coming pressures and there are opportunities available that can bring other benefits.

This book is intended for candidates for the NEBOSH qualification, but it will also be useful to anyone who wishes to understand the problems and how they can be tackled within their own organisations, be they industry, public service, voluntary bodies, or even as individuals.

Table of Contents

Introduction 1 Foundations in environmental management 2 Environmental management systems 3 Environmental impact assessments 4 Control of emissions to air 5 Control of contamination of water supplies 6 Control of waste and land use 7 Sources of energy and energy efficiency 8 Control of environmental noise 9 Planning for and dealing with environmental emergencies 10 The examination for the NEBOSH certificate in environmental management Appendix 1 Units of measurement used in environmental management Appendix 2 Background briefing to some of the terminology used in the text Appendix 3 Some examples of environmental management in practice Appendix 4 Further details on chapter references to UK law

This new edition of Professional and Business Communication is an ideal core communications textbook for students on business, management, and professional courses preferring a practice-focused and colloquial approach that combines accessibility with key theory. Techniques and processes detailed in the book include planning and preparing written communication, effective structures in documents, diverse writing styles, managing face-to-face interactions, using visual aids, delivering presentations, and organising effective meetings.

The third edition of this popular text has been thoroughly revised and updated to cover the dramatic shifts in communication practices that have been driven by remote working and increased technology use. It explores the current and likely future impact of these changes on communication practices, both for good (borderlessness; flexibility) and bad (isolation; burnout; fatigue) and looks at contemporary trends and future developments. This edition has also been revised to include even more examples, cases, tasks, activities, and discussion topics, with pedagogical features designed to aid international students. This popular text (and the accompanying website) will continue to support students on business, management, and professional courses for years to come.

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Part 1: How do we understand and analyse the ways we Communicate in Organisations

Chapter 1: Developing your Communication: Deciding where to start

Chapter 2: How should we analyse communication?

Chapter 3: What does communication mean?

Chapter 4: Communication Context 1: Culture and Structure

Chapter 5: Communication Context 2: The New Technology Landscape

　

Part 2: Presenting Information: Effective Methods and Media

Chapter 6: Planning and Organising Professional Written Communication

Chapter 7: Effective Writing Style

Chapter 8: Effective Design and Visual Aids

Chapter 9: Effective Documents for the Future

　

Part 3: Effective Interpersonal and Group Communication

Chapter 10: Effective Interpersonal Communication

Chapter 11: Interpersonal Skills in Practice

Chapter 12: Effective Meetings

Chapter 13: Effective Presentations

Chapter 14: Effective Teams

　

Part 4: Future-Gazing

Chapter 15: Change and Future-Gazing

Chapter 16: Planning your Future

Our socio-economic systems continue to grow and evolve. We need to acknowledge that, consequently, our decisions often fail – they are ineffective and create unexpected side effects. The speed of execution is increasing constantly and markets and systems respond almost immediately, making decision-making challenging. There is little or no room for failure.

This important new book analyses real world strategy and policy challenges, addressing the interconnectedness of the markets/systems we live in. It provides a step-by-step approach using systems thinking to solve complex problems in socio-political as well as business environment. It proposes a technique with which to better understand the problems and the context in which they arise, and tools to directly inform each step of the decision-making process. The book explores the main innovation that systemic thinking introduces – the emphasis on defining the problem creating system, which is made up of interacting parts, rather than prioritizing events that need immediate fixing.The case studies, examples and the approach proposed can be used to better understand reality and its complexity, and to integrate stakeholders for a better solution.

Practically, it can be used to identify problems, analyse their boundaries, design interventions, forecast and measure their expected impacts, implement them and monitor and evaluate their success/failure. The book touches upon global issues related to policy making and strategic management, as well as issues related to sustainable development for both the public and private sector.

The fashion industry has a dynamic, ever-changing landscape. The last decade has seen a shift in consumer expectations and a heightened dependence on efficient and effective supply chain management. These shifts in the consumer mentality have already forced apparel retailers to adapt, making changes throughout their organisations to maintain consumer loyalty. This new textprovides an overview of the latest trends and advances in fashion supply chain management and logistics, including:

The fundamentals of fashion supply chain management

Strategic management of the fashion supply chain, including the planning aspect of management

Technology in fashion supply chain management

Radio-frequency identification (RFID) and interoperability

Drawing on the expertise of academics, researchers and industry experts, including a wealth of real-life international cases, this book is ideal for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students and academics of fashion management, logistics and supply chain management, as well as practising professionals.

Table of Contents

Foreword II

1. Basic concepts of fashion supply chain

1.1 Introduction

1.2 Supply Chain and supply chain management

1.3 Supply Chain environment

1.4 Outsourcing and Off-shoring

1.5 Fast Fashion

1.6 Sustainable supply and logistics

References

2. Introduction to Fashion

2.1 The definition of fashion

2.2 Concepts of fashion

2.3 Cultural dimension of fashion consumers

2.4 Consumer’s Decision-making process

References

3. Lean vs Agile supply chain

3.1 Introduction

3.2 Fashion Supply chain – Volatility

3.3 Agile Supply Chain

3.4 Lean Supply Chain

3.5 Similarities and difference

3.6 Summary

References

4. Supply Chain Integration in the Apparel Industry

4.1 Introduction

4.2 Literature Review

4.3 Supply Chain Integration in the Apparel Industry

4.4 Vertical Integration

4.5 Horizontal Integration

4.6 Analysis of the two Solutions

References

5. Fashion Supply chain Traceability –RFID vs Barcode

5.1 Introduction

5.2 Barcodes

5.3 RFID

5.4 Similarities between the two solutions

5.5 Open or closed-loop system

5.6 Summary

References

6. Consumer behaviour and fashion supply chain

6.1 Consumer purchasing behavior

6.2 Impulse purchasing behaviour

6.3 Products characteristics

6.4 Consumer characteristics

References

7. Research methodologies for fashion supply chain analysis

7.1 Introduction

7.2 Research Philosophy

7.3 Research approach

7.4 Data sources

7.5 Data collection approach

7.6 Data collection method

7.7 Data analysis method

7.8 Sampling and validation

References

8. Social media and fashion supply chain

8.1 Social Media

8.2 Fashion Industry and Social Media

8.3 Fashion Blogging

8.4 Social Media and Fashion Markets

8.5 Brand Image Building

References

9. The global supply chain risk management

9.1 Introduction

9.2 Supply chain risk

9.3 Global Supply Chain Risk

9.4 Importance of supply chain risk management

9.5 Risk Drivers

9.6 Five Steps Integrated Risk Management Framework

9.7 Summary

References

10. A delivery system of Sainsbury’s clothing brand

10.1 Introduction

10.2 Problem Identification

10.3 Home delivery

10.4 In-store Delivery

10.5 Comparisons

10.6 Summary

References

Advertising Media Planning blends the latest methods for digital communication and an understanding of the global landscape with the best practices of the functional areas of media planning. Taking a unique brand communication approach from an agency perspective, the textbook is organized into four key parts, walking the student through the foundations of brand communication, communication planning, the different media channels available, and the process of preparing, presenting, and evaluating a media plan.

This 5th edition has been fully updated to include:

• An emphasis throughout on digital and global media planning

• New chapters on the role of brand communication, media planning and data analytics, paid media, mobile media, influencer marketing, and B2B media

• New mini-case studies and innovation-focused call-out boxes throughout, showcasing media examples from Europe, the United States, and Asia

• Discussion questions to foster engagement and understanding

A highly regarded new edition, this practical and integrated textbook should be core reading for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students studying Media Planning, Advertising Management, Integrated Marketing Communication, and Brand Management. Instructor resources include: PowerPoint slides, a test bank, and an instructor manual.

Table of Contents

1 The Changing Role of Brand Communication Support

2 Role of Data in Planning

3 Establishing a Media Framework

4 Dynamics of Paid Media

5 Dynamics of Owned Media

6 Dynamics of Earned Media

7 Components of a Strategic Communication Plan

8 How Brand Objectives Affect Communication Planning

9 The Role of Communication Plays in Brand Support

10 Working with a Situation Analysis

11 Defining the Target Audience

12 Geography’s Role in Planning

13 Seasonality and Timing

14 Competitive Analysis

15 Working with Creative

16 Working with a Budget

17 Setting Communication Objectives

18 Communication Idea and Briefi ng

19 Strategy and Tactics

20 Learning a New Language

21 Learning about Costs

22 Video Media

23 Audio Media

24 Print Media

25 Out-of-Home Media

26 Search Engine Marketing

27 Online Display Advertising

28 Mobile

29 Paid Social Media

30 Role of Social Influencers

31 In store Media

32 Direct Response

33 Gaming

34 Global Media

35 B2B

36 Sales Promotion

37 Global Campaign Planning

38 Preparing the Plan

39 Media and Campaign Measurement

40 Presenting the Plan: Developing the Narrative

41 Testing

42 Evaluating an Advertising Media Plan

Index

Career Management for Life provides students and employees with an integrative approach to managing their careers on an ongoing basis to achieve a satisfying balance between their work and their family responsibilities, community involvement, and personal interests. The career management model guides individuals through the different phases of their career from figuring out what their first job should be right to navigating the road to retirement.

Expert authors Greenhaus, Callanan, and Godshalk bring their wealth of research experience to the book and demonstrate the individual and organizational sides of career management, allowing an appreciation of both. This material is well balanced by a set of practical tools, including self-assessments, case studies, and recommended interviews. The new edition also includes:

An emphasis on attaining work-life balance, a topic that is of growing concern to workers at all stages of their careers.

An updated focus on today’s career contexts and stages.

Material on technology and social media, now integrated throughout the book, to reflect the growing importance of these tools in career management and development.

A chapter on international careers, helping individuals face a globalized world.

Greater emphasis on alternative career paths, reflecting the newest trends and helping individuals understand all the different career options available to them.

This rich and engaging book will help individuals understand themselves better, which in turn allows them to understand what they really want out of their career. Those taking (or offering) classes in career management or career development will come to rely on this book for years to follow.

Table of Contents

1. Introduction to the Study of Careers

2. Career Contexts and Stages

3. Work-Life Challenges and Opportunities

4. A Model of Career Management

5. Applications of the Career Management Model: Career Exploration

6. Applications of the Career Management Model: Goals, Strategies, and Appraisal

7. Choosing Careers and Organizations

8. The Early Career: Establishment and Achievement

9. The Middle and Late Career Stages: Career Challenges for Seasoned Employees

10. Job Stress and Careers

11. Managing Diversity

12. Entrepreneurial Careers

13. International Careers

14. The Role of Strategic Human Resource Management Systems in Career Management

15. Closing Thoughts on Career Management

Environmental issues can present some daunting operational concerns for all types of organization, whether in the private, public and voluntary sectors. Managing them requires environmental professionals with a working knowledge of the rapidly developing body of regulatory measures.

This new edition of Environmental Management in Organizations provides all the management tools, performance measures and communication strategies that organizations need to manage their environmental responsibilities effectively. Leading experts on each topic provide focused explanations and clear practical guidance, as well as setting out the context and the key environmental and management drivers.

This edition significantly updates the original handbook to take account of developments in the environmental agenda, including new dedicated chapters on climate change, energy, transport, biodiversity and chemicals. Published with IEMA.

Table of Contents

Introduction Part 1: The Environmental Context 1.1 The Earth's Natural Systems 1.2 State of the Global Environment 1.3 Sustainability and Sustainable Development 1.4 Valuing Ecosystems and their Services 1.5 Overview of the Law and International Legislation 1.6 European Union Policy and Legislation 1.7 The UK Legislative Context Part 2: Environmental Themes 2.1 Biodiversity and Conservation 2.2 Chemicals 2.3 Climate Change 2.4 Energy 2.5 Food and Agriculture 2.6 Pollution Prevention and Control 2.7 Transport and Greenhouse Gases Part 3: Managing Environmental Performance 3.1 The Response of Organizations 3.2 Environmental Management Systems 3.3 Sustainable Procurement 3.4 Environmental Product Development 3.5 Waste Management and Producer Responsibility 3.6 Contaminated Land 3.7 Engaging with People in Your Organization Part 4: Measuring and Communicating Environmental Performance 4.1 Emissions and Contamination Standards 4.2 Measurement and Monitoring 4.3 Auditing 4.4 Environmental Performance Indicators 4.5 Reporting and Accounting 4.6 Engaging with Stakeholders Part 5: Evaluation Tools 5.1 Environmental Impact Assessment 5.2 Strategic Environmental Assessment 5.3 Environmental Risk Governance 5.4 Life Cycle Assessment Part 6: The Challenges Ahead for the Environmental Profession 6.1 The Sustainability Challenge 6.2 Getting Beyond Integrated Thinking and Governance 6.3 The Future of the Environmental Profession

20 Keys has helped many manufacturing companies integrate the top manufacturing improvement methods into a coordinated system for drastic and continual improvement in involvement, quality, and productivity. This program provides the strategies necessary to achieve ambitious goals through a five-level scoring system.

The revised edition is improved with upgraded criteria for the five-level scoring system to guide your company to world-class status. New material and updated layout make implementation even easier. Two valuable case studies demonstrate effective use by both a Japanese company and an American manufacturer.

Table of Contents

Key 1: Cleaning and Organizing

Key 2: Rationalizing the System/Management of Objectives

Key 3: Improving Team Activities

Key 4: Reducing Inventory (Shortening Lead Times)

Key 5: Quick Changeover Technology

Key 6: Manufacturing Value Analysis (Methods Improvement)

Key 7: Zero Monitor Manufacturing

Key 8: Coupled Manufacturing

Key 9: Maintaining Equipment

Key 10: Time Control and Commitment

Key 11: Quality Assurance System

Key 12: Developing Your Supplies

Key 13: Eliminating Waste (Treasure Map)

Key 14: Empowering Workers to Make Improvements

Key 15: Skill Versatility and Cross-Training

Key 16: Production Scheduling

Key 17: Efficiency Control

Key 18: Using Information Systems

Key 19: Conserving Energy and Materials

Key 20: Leading Technology and Site Technology

Implementing the 20 Keys

Appendixes

Just like the world financial system, but for different reasons, 21st-century corporations need a new business model for their enterprise supply chains. The old conventions no longer work in this new world of volatile and increasingly unpredictable demand and supply. The enterprise needs to become more 'connected' to its own parts, as well as its partners up and down the chains it participates in. So too, we need to embrace new ways of looking at customers to gain deeper, more insightful impressions of what they are telling us about the way they want to buy our products and services. Finally, these signals need converting into corresponding action, driven by the people in the business, leaders and staff alike, who are aligned to their customers' wishes. This is the world of dynamic supply chain alignment where, increasingly, supply chains are the business. In the follow-up to his hugely successful Strategic Supply Chain Alignment, John Gattorna's Dynamic Supply Chain Alignment, explores how to create and sustain multiple supply chains with a level of flexibility and responsiveness that allow you to respond to opportunities and threats; at the same time aligning with your suppliers, your partners and your customers. When more executives get to this stage of development the profits will flow more readily, and sustainability of performance will not be the same issue it is today. The way forward is right there in front of us; but, says John Gattorna, we must throw off old ways and embrace the new.

Table of Contents

Prelude: Findings of Expert Panels �€“ Shades of Things to Come; 1: People Powering Enterprise Supply Chains 1; 2: �€�Requisite' Collaboration in Enterprise Supply Chains 1; 3: Building Relationships that Create Value; 4: Lean and Agile Supply Chains; 5: The Evolution of Fully Flexible Supply Chains; 6: Humanitarian Supply Chains in Action; 7: Enhanced Civil�€“Military Collaboration in Humanitarian Supply Chains; 8: Revisiting and Refining Lee's �€�Triple-A Supply Chain' 1; 9: Designing Supply Chain Organizations for Peak Performance 1; 10: The Supply-side View and �€�Reverse' Logistics; 11: Sales and Operations Planning; 12: Supply Chain Integration Layer; 13: Supply Chain Configurations and the Impact of Different Pricing Strategies; 14: Performance Measurement; 15: Using Network Optimization Modelling Techniques to Resolve Supply Chain Complexity and Achieve Aligned Operations; 16: DHL Taiwan; 17: Aligning Fonterra's Global Supply Chain Network; 18: Supply Chain Alignment �€“ Brazilian Style; 19: Supply Chain Alignment �€“ European Style; 20: Corporate Social Responsibility in Enterprise Supply Chains; 21: Building Sustainable Supply Chains for the Future; 22: Managing Disruptions in Contemporary Supply Chains; 23: The Coming of Age of Third-Party Logistics Providers; 24: Tax-aligned Supply Chains; 25: The Emergence of National Logistics Cities; 26: The Importance of Intellectual Capital and Knowledge in the Design and Operation of Enterprise Supply Chains; 27: China and India; 28: The Supply Chains of 2030; Last Word

Management: The Basics provides an easy, jargon-free introduction to the fundamental principles and practices of modern management.

Using examples ranging from people management at Cadbury and the Enron crisis to the marketing of fried chicken in China, the book explains key aspects of management, including:

business strategy and how to use it to meet goals;

how successful marketing works;

how organizations are structured and function;

fundamentals of corporate finance;

human resource management’s role in the management and development of people;

the importance of knowledge and culture to management.

This second edition has been updated to take account of general advances in management thinking, including developments in governance, responsible management and environmental pressures, and a new emphasis on health and well-being in the aftermath of the Covid-19 pandemic. It brings management thinking fully up to date with the latest currents and trends. This accessible, readable primer is an ideal starting point for anyone wanting to learn about business and management.

Table of Contents

1. Introduction: what is management? 2. Strategy 3. Managing people 4. Managing organizations 5. Production 6. Marketing 7. Finance 8. Knowledge and technology 9. Globalization and culture 10. The manager

This book remains the sole export–import textbook aimed squarely at the academic audience. Discussing theoretical issues in depth, while maintaining a practical approach, it offers a comprehensive exploration of import procedures and export regulations.

In addition to updated cases, this new edition includes:

New major developments in bilateral and regional trade agreements

Changes to INCOTERMS 2010

Coverage of the role of e-commerce

Expanded updates on methods of payment, export pricing, and government export finance

This clearly written and comprehensive textbook will ground students in theory and prepare them for the realities of a career in this fast-moving field. Suitable for upper-level undergraduates and postgraduates of international trade, the book stands alone in its blend of conceptual frameworks and cogent analysis. A related website, filled with export–import resources, opinion pieces, cases, and the latest news is located at: www.export-importtradecenter.com.

Table of Contents

Introduction. A Brief History of International Trade

Section 1. Overview of International Trade

1. Growth and Direction of Trade

2. International and Regional Agreements Affecting Trade

Section II. Export Planning and Strategy

3. Setting Up the Business

4. Planning and Preparations for Export

5. Export Channels of Distribution

6. International Logistics, Risk and Insurance

Section III. Executing the Transactions

7. Pricing in International Trade

8. Export Sales Contracts

9. Trade Documents and Transportation.

Section IV. Payment Terms and Procedures

10. Exchange Rates and International Trade

11. Methods of Payment

12. Countertrade

Section V. Financing Techniques and Vehicles

13. Capital Requirements and Private Sources of Financing

14. Government Export Financing Programs

Section VI. Export Regulations and Tax Incentives

15. Regulations and Policies Affecting Exports

Section VII. Import Procedures and Techniques

16. Import Regulations, Trade Intermediaries, and Services

17. Selecting Import Products and Suppliers

18. The Entry Process for Imports

19. Import Relief to Domestic Industry

20. Intellectual Property Rights

APPENDICES

Appendix A. Trading Opportunities in Selected Countries

Appendix B. Importing into the United States

Appendix C. Trade Profiles of Selected Nations

Appendix D. Applied, Weighted Mean Tariff Rates of Selected Countries (2014-2018)

Appendix E. China: Import-Export Duties and Taxes

Appendix F. US Trade Profile

Appendix G. Export Credit Agencies in Selected Countries

Appendix H. A Brief Comparison of Cargo Conventions

Appendix I. Countries That Are Members of Cargo Conventions

Appendix J. Freight Calculations

Appendix K. Sample Export Business Plan: Donga Michael Export Company

Appendix L. Sample Export Business Plan: Otoro Import Company

Appendix M. Export Sales Contract (Basic Clauses)

Appendix N. Sample Distributorship Agreement

Appendix O. Sample Sales Representative Agreement

Appendix P. Trade Documents

Index

This book provides a clear understanding of the different business strategies and models across all markets of the fashion industry.

Providing a holistic and practical approach to strategic fashion management and marketing, the book covers brand image, supply chain, communication, price point and social media. Based on examples from international organisations – including Off-White, Nike and Zara, as well as leading luxury brands – the author identifies 13 core market sectors and explores the strategies applied in each: from creativity to their supply chain and sustainability, from segmentation strategy to brand policies and from pricing to distribution. Each chapter includes features to aid student learning, including interviews with a wide range of experts from across the industry as well as student activities and reflection points.

Theoretically grounded yet practical in its approach, this is important reading for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students of Strategic Fashion Management, Fashion Marketing and Communications, Fashion Merchandising and Luxury Fashion.

Table of Contents

1. Fashion business and strategic marketing

2. Large unspecialised fashion companies

3. Historic fashion brands

4. Contemporary fashion brands

5. Industrial fashion brands

6. Fast fashion brands

7. Emerging brands specialising in ready-to-wear

8. Brands specialising in formal menswear

9. Brands specialising in casualwear

10. Brands specialising in underwear

11. Brands specialising in activewear

12. Brands specialising in streetwear

13. Brands specialising in bags

14. Brands specialising in footwear

15. Conclusions: shared critical factors of success and future scenarios of the fashion industry in collaboration with Sennaith Ghebreab

The New Arts Entrepreneur is the first uniquely designed pedagogy for arts entrepreneurship educators and students. Melding an arts-first approach with understandable entrepreneurial concepts and newly formulated tools, the text helps arts students to envision themselves as an entrepreneurial CEO, not simply another random entrepreneur flailing through a maze of well-worn entrepreneurial suggestions that don't fit.

At the core of the text are the entrepreneurial ecologies of the arts. The ecologies provide a framework to envision an entrepreneurial horizon for almost any arts-based business, included those ventures seeking to impact the production of art. In addition to this revolutionary framework, the text also introduces tools designed to compliment the ecologies.

Designed with arts students in mind, it accomplishes two critical tasks not found in other textbooks: venture sustainability and decision-making. This newly developed approach focuses on the decision-making required to sustain new arts ventures and will be of interest to arts students from all disciplines.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Part 1: Arts Venture Creation

1. Business and Incorporation Models in the Arts

2. Startup Models in the Arts

3. Creating a Plan: Startup and Business Architecture

4. Estimating Revenue and Expenses

Part 2: The Basic Arts Ecologies

5. Understanding the Entrepreneurial Ecology of the Arts (EEA)

6. An Overview of the Arts Ecologies

7. Basic Arts Ecologies

8. Using the EEA

Part 3: Advanced Arts Ecologies

9. The Advanced Arts Ecologies: Extending the Model

10. Using the Advanced Ecologies

Part 4: Tools/

This handbook provides a wide-ranging, coherent, and systematic analysis of maritime management, policy, and strategy development. It undertakes a comprehensive examination of the fields of management and policy-making in shipping by bringing together chapters on key topics of seminal scientific and practical importance.

Within 21 original chapters, authoritative experts describe and analyze concepts at the cutting edge of knowledge in shipping. Themes include maritime management and policy, ship finance, port and maritime economics, and maritime logistics. A study examines the determinants of ship management fees. Aspects of corporate governance in the shipping industry are reviewed and there is a critical review of the ship investment literature. Other topics featured include the organization and management of tanker and dry bulk shipping companies, environmental management in shipping with reference to energy-efficient ship operation, a study of the BIMCO Shipping KPI standard, utilizing the Bunker Adjustment Factor as a strategic decision-making instrument, and slow steaming in the maritime industry. All chapters are written to provide implications for further advancement in professional practice and research.

The Routledge Handbook of Maritime Management will be of great interest to relevant students, researchers, academics, and professionals alike. It provides abundant opportunities to guide further research in the areas covered but will also initiate and inspire effective maritime management.

Table of Contents

1. Principles of Maritime Business Management 2. Evolution of the EU and International Maritime Shipping: Drivers, Challenges and Scenarios 3. Organization and management of dry bulk shipping companies 4. Organization and Management of Tanker Shipping Companies 5. Environmental management in shipping: Theory and practice of energy efficient ship operation 6. Sustainability, Maritime Governance and Business Performance in a Self-Regulated Shipping Industry: A Study on the BIMCO Shipping KPI Standard 7. An overview to contemporary maritime logistics and supply chain management decision areas 8. Using the Bunker Adjustment Factor as a Strategic Decision Instrument 9. Slow steaming in the maritime industry 10. Determinants of Ship Management Fees 11. Corporate Governance in the Shipping Industry 12. The ownership structure of US listed shipping companies 13. A Critical Review of the Ship Investment Literature 14. Development of Ship Finance Centre: The Case of Singapore 15. Appraisal of Shipping Investment Projects Using Real Options 16. Credit Risk Analysis, Measurement, and Management in the Shipping Industry 17. The dynamic Baltic Dry Index: an approach to improve the freight market index 18. Inter-Organizational relationships of European port management entities 19. Investments and financial instruments in port management 20. Private Sector Participation, Port Efficiency, and Economic Development 21. The attitudes of port organizations in adapting to climate change impacts

Fashion buying and merchandising has changed dramatically over the last 20 years. Aspects such as the advent of new technologies and the changing nature of the industry into one that is faster paced than ever before, as well as the shift towards more ethical and sustainable practices have resulted in a dramatic change of the roles. As a result, contemporary fast fashion retailers do not follow the traditional buying cycle processes step by step, critical paths are wildly different, and there has been a huge increase in ‘in-season buying’ as a response to heightened consumer demand.

This textbook is a comprehensive guide to 21st-century fashion buying and merchandising, considering fast fashion, sustainability, ethical issues, omnichannel retailing, and computer-aided design. It presents an up-to-date buying cycle that reflects key aspects of fashion buying and merchandising, as well as in-depth explanations of fashion product development, trend translation, and sourcing. It applies theoretical and strategic business models to buying and merchandising that have traditionally been used in marketing and management.

This book is ideal for all fashion buying and merchandising students, specifically second- and final-year undergraduate as well as MA/MSc fashion students. It will also be useful to academics and practitioners who wish to gain a greater understanding of the industry today.

Table of Contents

1 The evolution of fashion buying and merchandising; 2 Fashion buying and merchandising roles and responsibilities in the 21st century; 3 The influence of technology on fashion buying and merchandising; 4 The buying cycle and critical path; 5 Range review; 6 Research and planning; 7 Range development; 8 Sourcing and negotiation; 9 Range finalisation; 10 Manufacturing; 11 Allocation and distribution; 12 Retail sales; 13 The impact of sustainability on fashion buying and merchandising; 14 The future of fashion buying and merchandising