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Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Textile arts
Stretching lengths of yarn across interior spaces, American artist Fred Sandback (1943 2003) created expansive works that underscore the physical presence of the viewer. This book, the first major study of Sandback, explores the full range of his art, which not only disrupts traditional conceptions of material presence, but also stages an ethics of interaction between object and observer. Drawing on Sandback's substantial archive, Edward A. Vazquez demonstrates that the artist's work with all its physical slightness and attentiveness to place, as well as its relationship to minimal and conceptual art of the 1960s creates a link between viewers and space that is best understood as sculptural even as it almost surpasses physical form. At the same time, the economy of Sandback's site-determined practice draws viewers' focus to their connection to space and others sharing it. As Vazquez shows, Sandback's art aims for nothing less than a total recalibration of the senses, as the spectator is caught on neither one side nor the other of an object or space, but powerfully within it.
Part of a series of exciting and luxurious Flame Tree Notebooks. Combining high-quality production with magnificent fine art, the covers are printed on foil in five colours, embossed then foil stamped. And they're powerfully practical: a pocket at the back for receipts and scraps, two bookmarks and a solid magnetic side flap. These are perfect for personal use and make a dazzling gift. Ashmolean Museum: Chinese Embroidered Hanging with Peacock. The peacock was emblematic not of glory but of compassion and care, and so it would appear to be in this intricate hanging. What we might expect to be its show-stealing splendour is almost upstaged by the pure-white peonies, lilies and roses all around. The eyes of its furled-up tail, though beautiful, blend into the background as though they were another flower.
Quilts have become a cherished symbol of Amish craftsmanship and the beauty of the simple life. Country stores in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, and other tourist regions display row after row of handcrafted quilts. In luxury homes, office buildings, and museums, the quilts have been preserved and displayed as priceless artifacts. They are even pictured on collectible stamps. Amish Quilts explores how these objects evolved from practical bed linens into contemporary art. In this in-depth study, illustrated with more than 100 stunning color photographs, Janneken Smucker discusses what makes an Amish quilt Amish. She examines the value of quilts to those who have made, bought, sold, exhibited, and preserved them and how that value changes as a quilt travels from Amish hands to marketplace to consumers. A fifth-generation Mennonite quiltmaker herself, Smucker traces the history of Amish quilts from their use in the late nineteenth century to their sale in the lucrative business practices of today. Through her own observations as well as oral histories, newspaper accounts, ephemera, and other archival sources, she seeks to understand how the term "Amish" became a style and what it means to both quiltmakers and consumers. She also looks at how quilts influence fashion and raises issues of authenticity of quilts in the marketplace. Whether considered as art, craft, or commodity, Amish quilts reflect the intersections of consumerism and connoisseurship, religion and commerce, nostalgia and aesthetics. By thoroughly examining all of these aspects, Amish Quilts is an essential resource for anyone interested in the history of these beautiful works.
The first in-depth study of a monumental wall hanging—rediscovered after many years—by renowned Bauhaus artist Anni Albers. Albers was influential in elevating textiles from craft to fine art. Her exquisite wall hanging Camino Real—seen for the first time outside of Mexico City at David Zwirner, New York, in 2019, and the subject of this book—is a superb example of this modern master’s work. In 1967, noted architects Ricardo Legorreta and Luis Barragán commissioned Albers to create a work for the newly built Hotel Camino Real in Mexico City. Completed in 1968, her striking wall hanging Camino Real is heavily influenced by Latin American art and culture. Showcasing Albers’s approach to working with textiles as a “many-sided practice,†it is accompanied in this book by works Albers made following her move to the United States in 1933, including innovative wall hangings, weavings, and a range of works on paper. Together, these works reflect Albers’s brilliant embrace of different materials and techniques and her ability to work at varied scales. The works in this publication offer additional context and motifs, demonstrating the artist’s pioneering investment in textiles as an art form and her parallel interest in mass-produced designs. Published on the occasion of the Anni Albers exhibition presented at David Zwirner, New York, in 2019, this catalogue features new scholarship from the show’s curator, Brenda Danilowitz, art historian and chief curator of The Josef and Anni Albers Foundation, and T’ai Smith, an expert on Bauhaus craft and weaving.
This book provides a fascinating look at the intricate transformation of a watercolour painting to a beautiful silk carpet, examining the step-by-step process that led to a revolutionary painterly style in modern carpet design and manufacture. This volume offers beautifully photographed and printed views of these sumptuous carpets in rooms designed by some of the world s leading interior designers. The carpets have been collected by luminaries in the design, fashion, and art worlds including curators Mark Rosenthal and Allan Schwartzman, Joseph Ettedgui, founder of the Joseph brand, Pierre Alexis-Dumas, creative director of Hermes, and celebrities such as Steve Martin, Madonna, and Brad Pitt, among others. Experience the highs and humorous lows of Davis and Provisor s adventures in Asia as they track down the best in materials and craftsmanship, as well as the most authentic cuisine in each region.
Learn the historical art of fine whitework in this informative, instructional guide from the Royal School of Needlework and master skills of Jenny Adin-Christie. This exquisite guide provides a historical background to fine whitework, and an exploration of the key stitch techniques involved in this intricate style of hand embroidery. Discover how to master five key areas of whitework technique: sculptured, translucent, filigree, fretted and voided; then apply these to two detailed and stunning pieces - a delicate button with scabiosa motif, and an elaborate embroidery honoring the 150th anniversary of the RSN. Clear step-by-step instructions and stitch diagrams aid the reader in their own whitework embroideries, and there is plenty of inspiration by way of Jenny Adin-Christie's own elegant works, and those of other RSN students and tutors.
Covers various aspects of Bhutan's textiles and weaving heritage, from the central role of women to fibres, dyes and looms, to the functioning of beautiful cloth as an item of trade and an indicator of historical change and social identity. This book reveals the richness, originality and striking beauty of Bhutanese textiles. This volume, first published in 1994 (now reprinted in 2008) in conjunction with a special exhibition organized by the Peabody Essex Museum of Salem, Massachusetts, covers all aspects of Bhutan's textiles and weaving heritage, from
A groundbreaking, informative, and thought-provoking exploration of fur's fashionable and controversial history The first and only book of its kind, Fur: A Sensitive History looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur-long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status-became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion. Divided into five sections-dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece-the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written, and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience.
The latest from Tina Ignell: a comprehensive study of 2-shaft stripes, plaids, color effects, and so much more. Renowned weaving expert Tina Ignell (Favorite Scandinavian Projects to Weave, Favorite Rag Rugs, Simple Weaves) turns her attention to the deceptively simple and endlessly adaptable category of plain weaves, in this exhaustive overview of techniques, sample projects, and inspirational possibilities. Combine a wide variety of materials, setts, beats, and other effects with just two shafts-though sometimes four is preferred for the sake of space-and you'll be astounded by the technical complexity, visual and textural effects, and stunning pattern styles you can achieve. - Project photographs as close to "actual size" as possible, to allow a true-to-life look at pattern structure and threading - Descriptions, instructions, and tips for dyeing, finishing, specialty techniques-everything necessary to master plain weave from start to finish - Variations including open rep with weft showing, using a fan reed, weaving in pleats and other textures, ikat and other patterned dyeing techniques, knotted paper yarn, and more
From the authors of Needle Felting for Beginners, awarded BEST CRAFT BOOK in The Craft Business Awards 2021. Needle-felting is an easy and fun technique, requiring little in the way of expensive materials or equipment. Its accessibility means it's becoming more and more popular, and award-winning authors Judy Balchin and Roz Dace show how to make 20 wonderful little teddy bears using this tactile technique. Each bear measures around 10-12cm (4-5in) tall and can be made in a matter of hours from a bundle of wool fibres, a felting needle and some carefully chosen embellishments. Each bear has its own special character, and they make ideal gifts and keepsakes for friends and loved ones. There's a pretty ballet bear, a cool Christmas bear, as well as a vintage bear, rainbow bear and cute baby bears. Each project is accompanied by clear, step-by-step instructions and beautiful photographs, and there are handy hints and tips throughout the book to help make the crafting process even easier. Detailed guidance is provided at the start of the book on the materials and equipment you need; how to sculpt a basic bear; make your bears' paws, feet and faces; and how to really bring your bear to life by carefully positioning the nose, eyes and ears. The techniques are easy to learn and soon you will be designing and making bears of your own to keep or give. Previously published as How to Make Little Needle-Felted Teddy Bears (ISBN: 9781782210696).
Clothing was an essential part of material culture in ancient societies both as a form of body protection and as house equipment. Besides a practical function, textiles played a crucial role in communicating various aspects of social and personal identity. Based largely on the analysis of textile tools, this book is intended to be the first systematic attempt at reconstructing textile culture in ancient Sicily. Textile implements represent the most abundant category of evidence for textile activity in Sicily and in this book they are used as a means to explore the social dynamics within cultural interactions in the final Bronze–Iron Age and Archaic Sicily. The book begins with an overview of the cultural complexity of communities in Sicily and the Aeolian islands, focusing on two crucial periods of Sicilian history, which are characterised by intense movements of peoples from the Italian peninsula and the establishment of Greek and Phoenician settlements. Through the investigation of textile tools, the book discusses several key aspects, including technological features of textile technology and production, knowledge transfer, networks of weavers, as well as the social significance of textile activity. By employing an interdisciplinary perspective, this book is important not only for textile specialists but also for scholars and students dealing with culturally hybrid frameworks of ancient Sicily and provides a springboard for future studies on textile culture and cultural interactions in the ancient world.
Follow Jenni Smith as she's granted rare access to the Liberty design studio and historic archives, and celebrate the iconic designs that have made Liberty London one of the world's most iconic fabric manufacturers. Liberty London opened in 1875 and has been producing exquisite fabrics and designs for over 140 years. In this book there are 15 projects with a complete fabric design history of Liberty as well as a full colour reference index for every fabric used. Featuring beautiful details of the classic fabric designs produced over the years, each quilt will inspire readers to finally cut into those precious bits of fabric and begin enjoying them in pieced projects of their very own. The hardback book comes in a gorgeous hardcover textured linen slipcase in beautiful Liberty fabric. It's an ideal gift for anyone who is a fan of Liberty or British design. This is the first quilting book to be an official partnership with Liberty.
* SHORTLISTED FOR THE COSTA BIOGRAPHY AWARD 2021 * 'If her moving, engrossing, elegantly written memoir does not win prizes, there really is no justice in the literary world.' Lucy Atkins, Sunday Times All happy families are alike; each unhappy family is unhappy in its own way. When Arifa Akbar discovered that her sister had fallen seriously ill, she assumed there would be a brief spell in hospital and then she'd be home. This was not to be. It was not until the day before she died that the family discovered she was suffering from tuberculosis. Consumed is a story of sisterhood, grief, the redemptive power of art and the strange mythologies that surround tuberculosis. It takes us from Keats's deathbed and the tubercular women of opera to the resurgence of TB in modern Britain today. Arifa travels to Rome to haunt the places Keats and her sister had explored, to her grandparent's house in Pakistan, to her sister's bedside at the Royal Free Hospital in Hampstead and back to a London of the seventies when her family first arrived, poor, homeless and hungry. Consumed is an eloquent and moving excavation of a family's secrets and a sister's detective story to understand her sibling.
Textiles in Indian Ocean Societies considers the importance of trade, and the transformation of the meaning of objects has the move between different cultures. It also addresses issues of gender, ethnic and religious identity, and economic status. The book covers a broad geographic range from East Africa to Southeast Asia, and references a number of disciplines such as anthropology, art history and history. This volume is timely, as both the social sciences and historical studies have developed a new interest in material culture. Edited by a foremost expert in the region, it will add considerably to our understanding of historical and current societies in the Indian Ocean region.
In the form of The Glove Deutsches Ledermuseum is tracing the varied cultural history of an accessory whose importance is often underestimated. The sheer diversity of this article of clothing is demonstrated by means of selected exhibits, from warming Inuit mittens, boxing gloves, disposable rubber or latex gloves, and Pontifical gloves, to models by renowned designers such as Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten. As a love token, a gauntlet in a duel, or as the insignia of royalty, this highly symbolic accessory and firm component of first courtly, then bourgeois etiquette looks back on a longstanding tradition. Gloves, for centuries an indispensable part of any elegant wardrobe, are currently experiencing a comeback. Text in English and German.
In recent decades, there has been a new surge of interest in the history and legacies of the Silk Roads both within academic and public discourses. A field of Silk Roads Studies has come into its own. Consciously mirroring the temperament of its subject, the field has moved out of the narrow niches of particular disciplines to become a truly interdisciplinary endeavor. New research findings about the historical operations of the Silk Roads and interpretations of their legacies for the modern and contemporary world have broken down geographical and temporal divides that once demarcated the Silk Roads as primarily pre-modern and Old World-centered conduits of globalization. In light of these developments, the time is ripe to begin formulating a new definition of the contour of Silk Roads Studies and laying a new foundation for further work in this field. Silk Roads: From Local Realities to Global Narratives brings together leading scholars in multiple disciplines related to Silk Roads studies. It highlights the multiplicity of networks that constituted the Silk Roads, including land and maritime routes, and approaches the Silk Roads from Antiquity to China’s One Belt One Road Initiative from Afro-Eurasia to the Americas. This holistic approach to understanding ancient globalization, exchanges, transformations, and movements - and their continued relevance to the present - is in line with contemporary academic trends toward interdisciplinarity. Indeed, the Silk Roads is such an expansive topic that many approaches to its study must be included to represent accurately its many facets. The volume emphasizes exchange and transformation along the Silk Roads - moments of acculturation or hybridization that contributed to novel syncretic forms. It highlights the multiplicity of networks that constituted the Silk Roads, including land and maritime routes, and approaches to the Silk Roads from Antiquity to China’s One Belt One Road Initiative from Afro-Eurasia to the Americas.
The classic book on the art and history of weaving--now expanded and in full color Written by one of the twentieth century's leading textile artists, this splendidly illustrated book is a luminous meditation on the art of weaving, its history, its tools and techniques, and its implications for modern design. First published in 1965, On Weaving bridges the transition between handcraft and the machine-made, highlighting the essential importance of material awareness and the creative leaps that can occur when design problems are tackled by hand. With her focus on materials and handlooms, Anni Albers discusses how technology and mass production place limits on creativity and problem solving, and makes the case for a renewed embrace of human ingenuity that is particularly important today. Her lucid and engaging prose is illustrated with a wealth of rare and extraordinary images showing the history of the medium, from hand-drawn diagrams and close-ups of pre-Columbian textiles to material studies with corn, paper, and the typewriter, as well as illuminating examples of her own work. Now available for a new generation of readers, this expanded edition of On Weaving updates the book's original black-and-white illustrations with full-color photos, and features an afterword by Nicholas Fox Weber and essays by Manuel Cirauqui and T'ai Smith that shed critical light on Albers and her career.
William Morris Textiles was the first comprehensive survey of the many hundreds of original, colourful textiles produced by William Morris and the two commercial companies he founded and managed. To this day it remains the authority in the field, and this revised edition has been completely rewritten and expanded with beautiful new photography. Linda Parry provides new insight into the embroideries, printed and woven textiles, carpets and tapestries produced by Morris & Co., giving in-depth information about their design and manufacture. The varied, often highly specialized processes involved are discussed in detail, as are Morris's working methods.
The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines. Following the Journal's tradition of drawing on a range of disciplines, the essays here also extend chronologically from the tenth through the sixteenth century and cover a wide geography: from Scandinavia to Spain, with stops in England and the Low Countries. They include an examination of the lexical items for banners in Beowulf, evidence of the use of curved template for the composition in the Bayeux Tapestry, a discussion of medieval cultivation of hemp for use in textiles in Sweden, a reading of the character of Lady Mede (Piers Plowman) in the context of costume history, the historical context of the Spanish verdugados (in English, the farthingale)and its use as political propaganda, an analysis of the sartorial imagery on a tabletop painting (attributed to Bosch) depicting the Seven Deadly Sins, and the reconstruction of one of the sixteenth-century London Livery companies' crowns.
An exploration of how the rose-the most ravishingly beautiful and symbolic of flowers-has inspired fashion over hundreds of years The Rose in Fashion: Ravishing is a fascinating exploration of how the rose has inspired the way we look, dress, feel, and fantasize. It foregrounds innovative, refined, and challenging fashion design from elite 18th-century woven silks to the latest gender-neutral catwalk trends and Alexander McQueen rose dresses. Drawing upon fashion clothing, everyday dress, millinery, fine jewelry, perfume, and artificial and fresh roses, multiple expert contributors make reference to love, beauty, sex, sin, gendered identities, rites of passage, transgression, degradation, and death. This sumptuously illustrated book also includes a contribution and stunning images of roses by visionary photographer Nick Knight. Wild yet cultivated, savage yet delicate, this flower has remained an enduring symbol perhaps due to its versatility and the dichotomies it represents.
Nina Granlund Saether has captivated knitters intrigued by the textile history of Norway, with deep dives into the rich pattern traditions for both mitten- and sock-knitting that have formed in various regions of the country. Now she expands her scope to knitwear of all kinds, including shawls, sweaters, cardigans, hats, and more, in this brand new collection. With her trademark attention to detail and patience for painstaking reproduction of knitted patterns, based on archival photographs and examples preserved in museum collections, Nina guides readers through the history and origins of each design, in a fascinating step-by-step tour of Norwegian knitting tradition no knitter should be without. Including a wide variety of styles and techniques-colourwork, relief stitch, openwork, cabling, and more-and adaptable patterns for men and women in sizes from S to XXL, plus tips and tricks for working in multiple colours, finishing necklines and edges, and completing thumbs and heels, this invaluable reference guide treats the reader to a deeper understanding of Scandinavian knitting history, and of the living cultural traditions that follow in its footsteps today.
Simple Pleasures presents the first major critical assessment of works by the artist Doris Lee (1904-1983). Lee was one of the most recognized artists in America during the 1930s and 40s, and was a leading figure in the Woodstock Artist's Colony. Her oeuvre reveals a remarkable ability to merge the reduction of abstraction with the appeal of the everyday. In so doing, she offers one of the very rare examples of a coherent visual identity that successfully bridged the various artistic "camps" that formed with the shift in the art world in the post-World War II era.Doris Lee exploded onto the national scene in 1935 when her painting Thanksgiving was awarded the Art Institute of Chicago's Logan Prize and instigated the Sanity in Art movement in protest. Two years later, her painting Catastrophe was purchased by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Simple Pleasures explores this initial national recognition in the 1930s within the context of American Scene painting, and traces the artist's thematic interest in the simple objects and scenes of the everyday through her career. It also examines the influence of the rise in abstraction during the late 1940s and 1950s, and the particular way in which this abstraction found resonance with Lee's long-held interest in, and collections of, folk and non-western art. During this post-war period, Lee, like many of her American Scene colleagues, found lucrative work in the heyday of commercial advertising. Lee's commercial commissions for patrons such as American Tobacco Company, Life magazine, Abbott Laboratories, and Associated American Artists are especially compelling in both their populist accessibility and in their deceptively sophisticated abstraction. Sixty-five works by the artist span the 1930s through the 1960s and are comprised of paintings, drawings, prints, and commissioned commercial designs in fabric and pottery. Included are advertisements by companies that commissioned images from Lee, and photographs that contextualize the artist's work within the Woodstock artist's community.
In this innovative collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the fashion industry, Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako offer a new methodology for studying transnational capitalism. Drawing on their respective linguistic and regional areas of expertise, Rofel and Yanagisako show how different historical legacies of capital, labor, nation, and kinship are crucial in the formation of global capitalism. Focusing on how Italian fashion is manufactured, distributed, and marketed by Italian-Chinese ventures and how their relationships have been complicated by China's emergence as a market for luxury goods, the authors illuminate the often-overlooked processes that produce transnational capitalism-including privatization, negotiation of labor value, rearrangement of accumulation, reconfiguration of kinship, and outsourcing of inequality. In so doing, Fabricating Transnational Capitalism reveals the crucial role of the state and the shifting power relations between nations in shaping the ideas and practices of the Italian and Chinese partners.
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