Commanding its own museum and over 200 years of examination, observation and scholarship, the monumental embroidery, known popularly as the Bayeux Tapestry and documenting William the Conqueror's invasion of England in October 1066, is perhaps the most important surviving artifact of the Middle Ages. This magnificent textile, both celebrated and panned, is both enigmatic artwork and confounding historical record. With over 1780 entries, Szabo and Kuefler offer the largest and most heavily annotated bibliography on the Tapestry ever written. Notably, the Bayeux Tapestry has produced some of the most compelling questions of the medieval period: Who commissioned it and for what purpose? What was the intended venue for its display? Who was the designer and who executed the enormous task of its manufacture? How does it inform our understanding of eleventh-century life? And who was the mysterious Aelfgyva, depicted in the Tapestry's main register? This book is an effort to capture and describe the scholarship that attempts to answer these questions. But the bibliography also reflects the popularity of the Tapestry in literature covering a surprisingly broad array of subjects. The inclusion of this material will assist future scholars who may study references to the work in contemporary non-fiction and popular works as well as use of the Bayeux Tapestry as a primary and secondary source in the classroom. The monographs, articles and other works cited in this bibliography reflect dozens of research areas. Major themes are: the Tapestry as a source of information for eleventh-century material culture, its role in telling the story of the Battle of Hastings and events leading up to the invasion, patronage of the Tapestry, biographical detail on known historical figures in the Tapestry, arms and armor, medieval warfare strategy and techniques, opus anglicanum (the Anglo-Saxon needlework tradition), preservation and display of the artifact, the Tapestry's place in medieval art, the embroidery's depiction of medieval and Romanesque architecture, and the life of the Bayeux Tapestry itself.

A collection of traditional eighteenth and nineteenth century weaving drafts, written sequences of the threading order on the loom used to create specific patterns. They are presented here in their original form as gathered by Frances L. Goodrich and illustrated in over 160 color photos. This volume also contains over 200 valuable modern translations of the same drafts for use by today's weavers. In 1890, Frances L. Goodrich came to the southern mountains in North Carolina from a life of culture to live and work among people who had little opportunity for education or social enrichment. Through her work for the Presbyterian Home Mission Board, she grew to love and respect these neighbors who worked so hard and had so little. She established schools, a small hospital, and the Allanstand Cottage Industries. As she traveled the mountain roads and trails on horseback, Miss Goodrich collected these precious weaving drafts from the women who wove for Allanstand Cottage Industries. In your hands is the heart of that collection.

Sustainable Fashion: Take Action, Third Edition presents a fresh exploration of practices that are underway in design and production within the fashion industry and the possibilities for future directions that can be taken now. This book focuses on innovative action needed to achieve the goal of creating healthier environments, reducing climate change, and improving the well-being of all people as they choose and wear clothing. This third edition continues to delve into the role that fashion plays in a sustainable future, through the interconnected model of "Connecting with People, Processes, and Environment", which marks the focus of the book's three sections. Covering a wide range of sustainability practices, the chapters are written by both academic and industry professionals, providing a balanced view of the topics with breadth and depth and suggesting routes for further examination. New to this Edition: -Thoroughly revised to cover advancements since the last edition, topics of equity, diversity, and inclusion are paramount within in each chapter, and social justice as a concept is highlighted throughout -Changes in cultural, social, and health contexts as they impact fashion action are spotlighted in every chapter -"Take Action" features are integrated within chapters STUDIO Features Includes: -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, and lecture notes

Celebrates the earliest history of the Islamic world's great textile traditions through fifty beautiful carpets and fragments. A wave of these beautiful textiles has reached the West since the turn of the 21st century, and here they are divided into variants featuring birds, mammals, and mythological creatures, which retain their glowing colors and lively charm.

Gloriously pieced together, much like the fine garments it portrays, this colourful volume takes the reader on an international tour of indigo-coloured textiles, presenting a huge swathe of remarkable clothing, people and fabric. Catherine Legrand, who has spent over twenty years travelling and researching the subject, has a deep knowledge of the ancient techniques, patterns and clothing traditions that characterize ethnic textile design, knowledge that she deploys to great effect in seven chapters exploring the production of Indigo textiles throughout America, China, India, Africa, Central Asia, Japan and Laos/Vietnam, and the men and women behind them. This profusely illustrated photographic survey features more than 500 photographs, faithfully laid out to reproduce Catherine's actual travel notebooks, and is completed by specially commissioned drawings that provide close-ups on patterns and clothes.

This book explores interconnections between high literary modernism and the revolution in dress design of the early twentieth century. During this time, new and «liberated» lifestyles created a bond among figures as diverse as writers and fashion editors, painters and art critics, photographers and models, dancers and economists – all of whom were in different ways looking at new «inventive clothes» (Vreeland) as life experiences. Starting points of the research are Pirandello’s One, no one, and one hundred thousand, where the protagonist’s disowning of his own image in the mirror ignites a tragedy, and Roger Fry’s essays on the resuscitation of Victorianism at the end of the First World War, where the phantasmagoria of time is identified as the basis for modern illusion. Each chapter in the book explores a different facet of the same topic: the distance between self and image as the dispenser or destroyer of enchantment. This issue was actively pursued by philosophers (Benjamin), writers (Woolf, Mansfield, Fitzgerald), photographers (Man Ray, Cecil Beaton) and fashion critics (Vreeland). The evolution in fashion editing was meanwhile instructing the sophisticated readers of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar in the art of contemplating their own reflections in the mirror and seeing in them exactly what they wanted to see. The Natasha of the title is Tolstoy’s heroine, a secret spring of creative energy for Katherine Mansfield, and the source of one of Diana Vreeland’s most perceptive insights into the nature of fashion.

View 170 quilts that were in homes and collections in Cumberland County, Pennsylvania, and learn about the county's role as a crossroads in our nation's history. Documented by members of the Letort Quilters, specimens from the 1700s through 1970 are showcased in beautiful detail, inviting the reader to learn more about these treasures. Their information is housed at the Cumberland County Historical Society. The curated collection highlights some of the features that make quilts of such lasting interest, and basic information about them provides an overview of quilting over the past several hundred years. It also serves as a reminder of the value of preserving this part of our heritage through simple practices such as labeling a quilt and storing it properly. It will inspire readers to take a new interest in quilts and leave them with basic skills for finding, appreciating, and caring for vintage quilts.

A giant high-top sneaker embellished with golden scissors floats in a polka dot sky along with the surprising motto, "Run With Scissors." Hooked rug maker Jill Cooper explains, "The older I get, the more I don't follow 'the rules.' This rug was a way to share my belief that you must take every chance you can to enjoy all the beauty of life." Taking chances with hooked rugs -- those cozy accessories of hearth and home -- is just what members of Vermont's Green Mountain Rug Hooking Guild do best. They tackle unconventional subjects, delight in using unheard of fibers, and love the challenge of designing their own contemporary work. At the same time, they are experts on "traditional" rugs and can replicate hooked pieces from the 1800s with uncanny precision. The guild's annual exhibit in 2006 featured more than 900 wonderful rugs, of which half are presented here and half in the companion volume. Feast your eyes on winners of the coveted Viewers' Choice Awards, rugs in Oriental designs, florals, abstracts, animals, architectural designs, and delicate miniature rugs smaller than a credit card. Rugs by one of the show's three honorees, Pat Merikallio, are featured here, as are rugs made by children, rugs illustrating "The Twelve Days of Christmas," and over 100 pieces depicting the theme "Strong Women." This book is a delightful, inspiring look at what can be accomplished with the versatile and exciting medium of hooked rugs.

Hmong story cloths provide a visual documentation of the historical and cultural legacy of the Hmong people from the country of Laos. The Hmong first began making the story cloths during their time in refugee camps, and featured here are 48 vibrant story cloths that provide a comprehensive look at their lives and culture. The creation of a story cloth begins with the selection of fabric and images outlined onto the fabric. Long satin stitches of multi-colored threads fill in the image, while details are applied with intricate satin stitches and borders pieced together and hand-stitched. Topics include history, traditional life in Laos, Hmong New Year, folk tales, and neighboring people. The quality and diversity of content of the story cloths build upon one another to provide a holistic understanding of the Hmong culture and history. Augmented with personal stories and artifacts, this book is perfect for history buffs and textile artisans alike.

A colourfully illustrated guide to the traditional and contemporary textile skills of hooking, prodding, punching and tufting, to fire your imagination, and to discover ideas for eco-friendly crafting. - Contains 20 vibrant step-by-step projects exploring playful design and quirky creativity, including rugs, cushions, bags and personal accessories. - Conserves resources through imaginative re-use of all kinds of materials - from recycled clothing, food packaging and plastics, to junk jewellery and surplus yarn. - Includes examples of community projects and an inspirational gallery of work by notable artists from around the world.

This second edition of 'Textile Conservator's Manual', now revised and available in paperback, provides an in-depth review of the current practice, ethics and materials used in textile conservation. Concentrating on decorative art objects from the major cultures, the book gives practical instruction and a wide variety of case histories. While the format has been simplified, the text has been expanded and updated to include changes bought about by recent developments in the conservation of material. This new information will increase the reader's ability to interpret signs of ageing and past activity on the object. New case histories in Part Two represent major investigations into the technical history. A basis is provided from which to develop practical skills, taking into account the needs of the object, its essential characteristics of appearance and, above all, its structure. The book covers a wide range of decorative objects, from a fragment of linen 4000 years old to a theatrical backcloth of the twentieth century. This book is practical and thought-provoking, not only about what is being done and how, but also why.

More than 500 images explore the free-form embroidered creations of the tribal people of India's renown Gujarat Province. Dating back 30 to 100 years, they include original garments, temple offerings, welcome banners, and second-generation quilted works that combine precious remnants for new decorative uses. These items have trickled onto the world market where they are treasured by decorators and collectors. Textile artists, designers, and ethnologists alike will delight in these examples of the boundless imaginations of itinerant tribal women who make much of little in their elaborate, mica and bead-studded creations. Abstract, geometric, floral, and religious imagery celebrates the boundless exuberance of their quest for beauty.

An evocative exploration of how travel - local and far away - can inform, inspire and enhance textile art. Travel has always featured heavily in textile art, from artists’ ‘travelling sketchbooks’ to large-scale installations mapping coastal erosion or the effects of climate change. In this book, renowned textile artist Anne Kelly shows how to capture your travels, past and present, in stitch, with practical techniques sitting alongside inspiring images. She begins the book by discussing maps in textile art, including their iconography as well as incorporating actual maps into textile work. She then goes on to explore the influence of different cultures from across the globe on textile art. From India and Peru to Scotland and Scandinavia, the book shows how to harness traditional techniques, fabrics, motifs and colours for use in your own work. The chapter ‘Stopping Places’ captures the moments in time on a journey that can be distilled, remembered and documented to create stitched postcards, sketchbooks and other pieces. The final chapter, ‘Space and the Imagination’, explores the possibilities of space travel as a source of inspiration, and covers inner space too, with artists mapping their own emotional journeys. Including a wealth of practical tricks and techniques as well as exquisite photography of both Anne’s own work and that of other leading textile artists, this fascinating book will inspire all textile artists, embroiderers and makers to use past travels to influence their work.

Tapestries from 40 top international artists representing three generations show the best examples of contemporary approaches to the handwoven art. Featured are more than 50 examples, including full views of each artwork, as well as details. Tapestries are accompanied by biographical information on each artist, hand-picked for this collection because they are at the forefront of their field. The book also includes insightful essays, statements, and information about the field of tapestry, including artist and gallery contact information. This one-of-a-kind collection of works was curated by the author, Carol Russell, for an exhibition at Hunterdon Art Museum in Clinton, New Jersey, in 2015. Included are essays by the curator, as well as by Archie Brennan, Christine Laffer, and Dr. Lycia Trouton.

In the first ever book devoted to a critical investigation of the personal style blogosphere, Minh-Ha T. Pham examines the phenomenal rise of elite Asian bloggers who have made a career of posting photographs of themselves wearing clothes on the Internet. Pham understands their online activities as "taste work" practices that generate myriad forms of capital for superbloggers and the brands they feature. A multifaceted and detailed analysis, Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet addresses questions concerning the status and meaning of "Asian taste" in the early twenty-first century, the kinds of cultural and economic work Asian tastes do, and the fashion public and industry's appetite for certain kinds of racialized eliteness. Situating blogging within the historical context of gendered and racialized fashion work while being attentive to the broader cultural, technological, and economic shifts in global consumer capitalism, Asians Wear Clothes on the Internet has profound implications for understanding the changing and enduring dynamics of race, gender, and class in shaping some of the most popular work practices and spaces of the digital fashion media economy.

This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of "Layla and Majnun" and "Khusrau and Shirin" that appear on early modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials, literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical study of figural designs, the study presents original cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.

This unchanged hardback edition of our richly illustrated publication walks the reader through the different aspects of printed textile design as a process and a profession. The intention of this book is to present an overall panorama of the world of printed textile design. The authors--both design school teachers responsible for textile design training at the prestigious fashion, textile and luxury goods design school, Francoise Conte (Paris, France)--describe the areas of activity and involvement of the textile designer to help the reader understand the ins and outs of the profession, especially within the fashion and the home sector. They pay special attention to current tendencies and offer an excellent insight on how to interpret trends, which is essential for making a living in this profession. The book also includes a presentation of the stages of project design, creation and execution.The featured projects provide the reader with outstanding explanatory case studies and exercises in every chapter. This textbook is a key aid for design teachers, students and young professionals. It also includes a highly useful list of schools, professional publications and organizations.

Learn the fascinating history of a distinct style of needlework fashionable in Victorian America from approximately 1877 to 1912. Read how it began, learn the techniques used to create it, and gain detailed information to identify it. This is the compelling story of one woman's ingenuity and steadfast belief that she could make a difference in the lives of women with serious economic need -- the fundamental need for sustenance. Candace Wheeler conceived the idea and saw it succeed beyond her wildest expectations. Embroidering these strikingly beautiful and lifelike silk floral designs became an innovative opportunity for women to earn their own living. Featured is an extraordinary collection of anitque linens embroidered with incredible skill and shown in 383 images, including embroidery books, magazines, and other period items that help explain the story. They demonstrate why art embroidery has become popular with collectors today, apart from its sheer beauty. This awe-inspiring story of noble endeavor and the embroidery style itself is a feast for the senses.

Create the Cosplay Dress of Your Dreams Design and sew a ballgown fit for cosplay royalty! A crucial part of any cosplayer's wardrobe, the right ballgown can transform you into an elegant princess or a dramatic sorcerer. But it takes more than just magic to create jaw-dropping gowns and ball-worthy dresses. Follow along with world champion cosplayers Cowbutt Crunchies as they walk sewists of all skill levels through building a ballgown with all the flourishes. This book contains everything you need to know about silhouette, planning, patterning, construction, corsets, hoop skirts, and trims. Craft your own magical fairytale masterpiece from start to finish! - Curtsy with confidence! Sew elaborate cosplay ballgowns from scratch - Take your builds to the next level with tips from award-winning cosplayers Regan and Kelley - This complete guide helps new and experienced sewists build stunning showpiece gowns

Clothing and accessories from nineteenth-century China reveal much about women's participation in the commercialization of textile handicrafts and the flourishing of urban popular culture. Focusing on women's work and fashion, A Fashionable Century presents an array of visually compelling clothing and accessories neglected by traditional histories of Chinese dress, examining these products' potential to illuminate issues of gender and identity. In the late Qing, the expansion of production systems and market economies transformed the Chinese fashion system, widening access to fashionable techniques, materials, and imagery. Challenging the conventional production model, in which women embroidered items at home, Silberstein sets fashion within a process of commercialization that created networks of urban guilds, commercial workshops, and subcontracted female workers. These networks gave rise to new trends influenced by performance and prints, and they offered women opportunities to participate in fashion and contribute to local economies and cultures. Rachel Silberstein draws on vernacular and commercial sources, rather than on the official and imperial texts prevalent in Chinese dress history, to demonstrate that in these fascinating objects-regulated by market desires, rather than imperial edict-fashion formed at the intersection of commerce and culture. A Fashionable Century is the winner of the Costume Society of America's Millia Davenport Publication Award and was long-listed for the Textile Society of America's R. L. Shep Award. The judges described the book as "an extraordinary achievement in scholarship working with source materials that are little-known outside of China and not otherwise available in English."

Spanning more than five decades of fabric design, Plaids is an invaluable visual reference guide for designers. With more than 550 full-color photographs of printed and woven plaids, this colorful book provides a sweeping survey of plaid fabric designs, from the standard checks and gingham patterns to the farthest reaches of designers' imaginations. Special sections detail variations in plaid styles, including imitation weaves, hound's-tooth, harlequin, florals, and novelty prints. The book also includes French and Italian couture fabrics and more than 150 traditional Scottish tartans. Plaids is the most comprehensive pictorial guide ever produced on the subject.

Finally, there's a headwear solution for fashionable felines - and a practical use for accumulated shed hair. Cats in Hats contains step-by-step instructions for constructing stylish hats out of excess fur, so your cat will soon be the belle of the furball as they transform into a magical unicorn, ferocious lion or even a birthday cake! Welcome to Cats In Hats and admire the overwhelming cuteness of popular Instagrammers Rojiman and Umatan's cats in their tiny cat-hair hats. Is your cat a diva? Maybe it's time to make her a crown! Or perhaps he's a bit of a prankster - put on a joker hat! There's one for every occasion, from birthdays to graduation. Don't miss the Animal hats, from Elephant to Koala. Celebrate every annual festival with a Halloween Witch hat, Easter Bunny hat, and more. And amaze your cat with a character hat. From Princess Leia to Sherlock Holmes, whatever your cat's personality, we have a hat for them. With 300 hand-drawn step-by-step instructions for constructing 25 adorable hats, and colour photos of the authors' own cats in their handmade headgear, Cats in Hats is a fun gift for any cat-lover or crafter. And with great tips from Rojiman and Umatan, you'll be designing your own custom cat-hair creations in no time.

Quilting, once regarded as a traditional craft, has broken through the barriers of history, art and commerce to become a global phenomenon, international multi-billion dollar industry and means of gendered cultural production. In Quilting, sociologist and quilter Marybeth C. Stalp explores how and why women quilt.
This close ethnographic study illustrates that women's lives can be transformed in often surprising ways by the activity and art of quilting. Some women who quilt as a leisure pastime are too afraid to admit to being a quilter for fear of ridicule; others boldly identify themselves as quilters and regard it as part of their everyday lives.
The place of quilting in women's lives affects core family and personal identity issues such as marriage, childcare, friendship and aging. The book's accessible and intimate portrayal of real quilters' lives provides a fabric for the sociology, anthropology and textile student to understand more about wider issues of cultural production and identity that stem from this very personal pastime.

A groundbreaking study of a remarkable artist, described by the New York Times as 'a figure ahead of her time'. The significance of Hannah Ryggen (1894-1970) as one of the most important figures in the history of Scandinavian art has only recently been recognized internationally. Beloved and renowned for her original contributions to modernist tapestry, Ryggen made radical political statements against Fascism and Nazism before and during the Second World War. Using primary sources, Ryggen expert Marit Paasche brings us a much fuller knowledge of the artist, weaving her life and work into a story that illuminates not only the artist herself, but also 20th-century art history in general. Hannah Ryggen's visually spellbinding tapestries, made on a homemade handloom in her small farm on the remote Norwegian coast, depict a wealth of subjects: Mussolini's Abyssinian campaign, her husband's internment in a Nazi camp in occupied Norway, the post-war growth of nuclear power, and media coverage of the Vietnam War. At once hard-hitting and humorous, her works combine personal candour, social and political engagement and visual majesty. Paasche explores both the artist's bold subject matter and particular balance of abstraction and figuration within the context of her life and beliefs. Including a comprehensive selection of works, this book provides an enthralling account of a remarkable, and unjustly overlooked, artist.

Rejecting traditional notions of what constitutes art, this book brings together essays on a variety of fiber arts to recoup women's artistic practices by redefining what counts as art. Although scholars over the last twenty years have turned their attention to fiber arts, redefining the conditions, practices, and products as art, there is still much work to be done to deconstruct the stubborn patriarchal art/craft binary. With essays on a range of fiber art practices, including embroidery, knitting, crocheting, machine stitching, rug making, weaving, and quilting, this collection contributes to the ongoing scholarly redefinition of women's relationship to creative activity. Focusing on women as producers of cultural products and creators of social value, the contributors treat women as active subjects and problematize their material practices and artifacts in the complex world of textiles. Each essay also examines the ways in which needlework both performs gender and, in turn, constructs gender. Moreover, in concentrating on and theorizing material practices of textiles, these essays reorient the study of fiber arts towards a focus on process"the making of the object, including the conditions under which it was made, by whom, and for what purpose"as a way to rethink the fiber arts as social praxis.