A groundbreaking, informative, and thought-provoking exploration of fur's fashionable and controversial history The first and only book of its kind, Fur: A Sensitive History looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur-long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status-became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion. Divided into five sections-dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece-the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written, and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience.

Terry cloth was once relegated to towels for the kitchen and bathroom, but, after World War II, it was embraced as a bold, colorful, and comfortable fabric for everything from beachwear to evening wear. The first book devoted specifically to terry cloth, it contains more than 500 images that trace the fabric's history through vintage advertisements, sewing patterns, and terry apparel. The patterns feature designs from dainty florals to fabulous geometrics, especially from the 1950s to the 1970s. Chapters include techniques for sewing, caring for, and where to purchase terry cloth. This book is a great resource for fashion designers, students of fashion, and history buffs.

"Cool" colors were hot for fabrics in the late 1960s. The youth of the day wore hot pinks and purples, chartreuse, orange, and yellow. Sometimes called neon colors, these cool hot colors were often combined into wild and psychedelic floral and geometric designs. Hundreds of splashy colors and designs from actual 1960s European and American textile manufacturers' sample books are photographed and displayed with full descriptions and fabric content information. This book takes the '60s enthusiast on a magical ride to an era of outrageous artistic expression.

Repeating patterns can soothe or energize us, bringing joy and harmony to everyday life. Repeat Printed Pattern for Interiors explores the power repeat patterns hold over us and what goes into creating original, effective printed designs. Beginning with the history of patterns in interior design, Kate Farley uncovers lessons from the work of Owen Jones, William Morris, Collier Campbell and Josef Frank. There are also interviews with some of the best contemporary pattern designers working today: Angie Lewin, Deborah Bowness, Eley Kishimoto, Emma J. Shipley, Galbraith & Paul, Neisha Crosland, Orla Kiely OBE, Sarah Campbell and Timorous Beasties. Each interview covers the designer's practice and ethos and includes a deconstruction of one design, with discussion of initial sketches, details of design development, manufacturing insights and images of final products. Covering hand-drawn techniques through to digital manipulation, you'll also be guided through the implications of visual language, colour statements, manufacturing considerations and commercial interior contexts to prepare you to jump in and start creating your own unique patterns.

The paperback edition of this captivating story of Tudor dress, and the people who made and wore it The Tudors are some of the best-known figures in history. They continue, even today, to spark our curiosity and imagination. Their enduring popularity is no doubt partly due to the iconic portraits in which they are depicted, in farthingales and ruffs, furs and jewels, codpieces and cloaks, and vast expanses of velvet and silk. Far from being mere decoration, fashion was pivotal in the communication of status and power. This paperback edition of Tudor Fashion presents insights into the fashions of the Tudor dynasty. Histories of Kings and Queens complement stories of unsung dressmakers, laundresses, and officials charged with maintaining and transporting the immense Tudor wardrobes from palace to palace. Evidence from rare surviving garments and textiles, original documents, fine and decorative art, and archaeological findings enhance our understanding of the Tudors and their courts. Handsomely illustrated, this sumptuous book contextualizes Tudor dress and fills in gaps in our knowledge of the period and its fascinating historical figures. Published in association with Historic Royal Palaces

This collection of fifteen papers ranges from the author's initial interest in the Tapestry as a source of information on early medieval dress, through to her startling recognition of the embroidery's sophisticated narrative structure. Developing the work of previous authors who had identified graphic models for some of the images, she argues that not just the images themselves but the contexts from which they were drawn should be taken in to account in 'reading' the messages of the Tapestry. In further investigating the minds and hands behind this, the largest non-architectural artefact surviving from the Middle Ages, she ranges over the seams, the embroidery stitches, the language and artistry of the inscription, the potential significance of borders and the gestures of the figures in the main register, always scrutinising detail informatively. She identifies an over-riding conception and house style in the Tapestry, but also sees different hands at work in both needlecraft and graphics. Most intriguingly, she recognises an sub-contractor with a Roman source and a clownish wit. The author is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at The University of Manchester, UK, a specialist in Old English poetry, Anglo-Saxon material culture and medieval dress and textiles.

This is the first dedicated book to concentrate on textiles as a major commodity, and primary indicator of status, wealth and identity in Indian Ocean regions. The volume considers the importance of trade, and the transformation of the meaning of objects as they move between different cultures; it also addresses issues of gender, ethnic and religious identity, and economic status. The book covers a broad geographic range from East Africa to South-East Asia, and references a number of disciplines such as anthropology, art history and history. This volume is timely, as both the social sciences and historical studies have developed a new interest in material culture.

A dazzling celebration of the clothes that made America's favorite doll and the incredible woman behind them, timed to the movie release of Barbie, starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling and directed by Greta Gerwig. If you've ever had a Barbie doll, or you know someone who did, chances are that Barbie was dressed in one of the thousands of designs created by Carol Spencer during her unparalleled reign as a Barbie fashion designer spanning more than thirty-five years. Illustrated with more than 100 full-color photographs, including many never-before-seen images of rare and one-of-a-kind pieces from Spencer's private archive, Dressing Barbie is a treasure trove of some of the best and most iconic Barbie looks from the early 1960s until the late 1990s. Along with behind-the-scenes stories of how these designs came to be, Spencer reminisces about her thrilling time at Mattel working with legendary figures such as Ruth Handler, Barbie's creator, and Charlotte Johnson, the original Barbie designer, for a full, inside look into life with the beloved doll. Over the course of her career, Spencer won many accolades. She was the first designer to have her signature on the doll, the first to go on a signing tour, the first to design a limited-edition Barbie for collectors, and the designer of the biggest-selling Barbie of all time. Now, she is the first member of the inner circle to reveal the fashion world of the quintessential California girl as never before.

The Grammar of Pattern describes characteristics of textile and other surface patterns, and identifies, illustrates, and reviews a wide range of pattern types including spotted, striped, checked, tessellating and other types of all-over patterns with original drawings and images. This book includes original black-and-white line drawings and color images. The modular nature of patterns is explored, and attention is focused on the vast diversity of pattern types which can emerge from a small inventory of components. The book features material that is easily accessible with obvious mathematical content kept to a minimum and offers fresh perspectives on the nature of tessellating and other all-over patterns. This book serves as an effective practical guide for both students and professionals. Select sample exercises and student assignments are included, making this an ideal course text for teachers engaged across the full range of design education.

New approaches to what is arguably the most famous artefact from the Middle Ages. In the past two decades, scholarly assessment of the Bayeux Tapestry has moved beyond studies of its sources and analogues, dating, origin and purpose, and site of display. This volume demonstrates the value of more recent interpretive approaches to this famous and iconic artefact, by examining the textile's materiality, visuality, reception and historiography, and its constructions of gender, territory and cultural memory. The essays it contains frame discussions vital to the future of Tapestry scholarship and are complemented by a bibliography covering three centuries of critical writings. Martin K. Foys is Professor of English at University of Wisconsin-Madison; KarenEileen Overbey is Associate Professor of Art History at Tufts University; Dan Terkla is Professor of English at Illinois Wesleyan University. Contributors: Valerie Allen, Richard Brilliant, Shirley Ann Brown, Elizabeth Carson Pastan, Madeline H. Cavines, Martin K. Foys, Michael John Lewis, Karen Eileen Overbey, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Dan Terkla, Stephen D. White.

Woven Textile Design offers a comprehensive introduction to weaving for all those wishing to design and produce a wide range of fabrics from scratch.
Starting with the basics of woven textile design, the book looks at how to draw up and interpret records and notation, before explaining how different types of cloth are constructed. From the most basic of plain weaves, through twill weaves, textured weaves such as seersucker, crepe, and corded cloths to more complicated designs created with extra threads woven in, a wide range of patterns are covered. Illustrated throughout with diagrams, weaving plans, and beautiful examples from contemporary designers, the book also includes tips on using different yarns and colors to create stunning and unique designs.
Offering clear, practical advice, this book will show you how to interpret your initial concepts and develop your ideas on the loom.

Wallpaper's spread across trades, class and gender is charted in this first full-length study of the material's use in Britain during the long eighteenth century. It examines the types of wallpaper that were designed and produced and the interior spaces it occupied, from the country house to the homes of prosperous townsfolk and gentry, showing that wallpaper was hung by Earls and merchants as well as by aristocratic women. Drawing on a wide range of little known examples of interior schemes and surviving wallpapers, together with unpublished evidence from archives including letters and bills, it charts wallpaper's evolution across the century from cheap textile imitation to innovative new decorative material. Wallpaper's growth is considered not in terms of chronology, but rather alongside the categories used by eighteenth-century tradesmen and consumers, from plains to flocks, from China papers to papier mache and from stucco papers to materials for creating print rooms. It ends by assessing the ways in which eighteenth-century wallpaper was used to create historicist interiors in the twentieth century. Including a wide range of illustrations, many in colour, the book will be of interest to historians of material culture and design, scholars of art and architectural history as well as practicing designers and those interested in the historic interior.

Textile Landscapes demonstrates how to develop your approach to textile art with a focus on using found objects and paint and stitch on cloth and paper. Cas explains how to exploit the contrast between the hands-on textural quality of working with fabrics and threads and the spontaneity and movement of brush marks to lend a painterly quality to your work. She begins with the basics - keeping a sketchbook to generate ideas, painting and stitching on cloth and on paper and working digitally; Inspiring Landscapes looks at natural and urban space, the changing seasons and great landscapes as well as intimate spaces and travel diaries; Painting and Marking with Cloth explains the practical aspects of painting and dyeing cloth and how to make connections between paint, print, dye, stencil and stitch; Stitch-scapes looks at the different forms of landscape, experimenting with photographs and prints and how to translate those images using ink, stitch, abstract and collage techniques and then at how to transform the image using digital techniques; On Closer Inspection covers using elements and details from landscape and the environment as found objects and for research; finally People and Place explores the relationship we have with the outdoors and the built environment, as well as personal interpretations of place. The book includes artworks by the author that explore the UK, USA, Europe and Australia, as well as works by other internationally renowned textile artists. A creative guide ideal for textile artists of all levels - students, teachers and practising artists and makers - to make unique and beautiful work inspired by the world around us.

This title will present an overview of the core textiles techniques: applique; printing onto fabric; stencilling; fabric painting; dyeing; quilting and patchwork; batik; embroidery (hand and machine); felt-making; weaving; silk painting; fusing and bonding fabric; and mark-making. Each chapter will be packed with unique ideas demonstrating different ways to use the technique as you are learning. Perfect for fashion and textile students, or anyone with a passion for creative textiles. The cheapest and easiest methods for each technique will be explained, and where possible the author will cover methods for working on textiles at home, without expensive equipment. Format will be strictly practical and step-by-step, with tools and working techniques fully explained and illustrated.

From the authors of Needle Felting for Beginners, awarded BEST CRAFT BOOK in The Craft Business Awards 2021. Needle-felting is an easy and fun technique, requiring little in the way of expensive materials or equipment. Its accessibility means it's becoming more and more popular, and award-winning authors Judy Balchin and Roz Dace show how to make 20 wonderful little teddy bears using this tactile technique. Each bear measures around 10-12cm (4-5in) tall and can be made in a matter of hours from a bundle of wool fibres, a felting needle and some carefully chosen embellishments. Each bear has its own special character, and they make ideal gifts and keepsakes for friends and loved ones. There's a pretty ballet bear, a cool Christmas bear, as well as a vintage bear, rainbow bear and cute baby bears. Each project is accompanied by clear, step-by-step instructions and beautiful photographs, and there are handy hints and tips throughout the book to help make the crafting process even easier. Detailed guidance is provided at the start of the book on the materials and equipment you need; how to sculpt a basic bear; make your bears' paws, feet and faces; and how to really bring your bear to life by carefully positioning the nose, eyes and ears. The techniques are easy to learn and soon you will be designing and making bears of your own to keep or give. Previously published as How to Make Little Needle-Felted Teddy Bears (ISBN: 9781782210696).

Needle Work: Stitched Illustrations is a lavishly illustrated volume that explores the growing trend in textile-based art and illustration. The works of each featured artist are showcased with full-page illustrations, alongside a brief biography that examines their work, inspiration, and artistic vision.

Take a close-up look at far-out fabric designs from the 1960s in full, cool colors. All the orange, hot pink, and sky blue the era's most fertile imaginations could conjure. Featured are more than 300 striking swatches from top couture houses in Paris and Milan, bold flower prints on silk, cotton, and the acetates and polyesters that helped shape fashion's most eye-popping era.

Among the great designers at Herman Miller in the 1950s and 1960s, Alexander Girard enhanced Eames' and Nelson's furniture with innovative textiles. As head of Herman Miller's Textile Division since it was formed in 1952, he designed some of the most colorful and exciting fabrics available anywhere. He also designed the 25-piece Girard Group of modern furniture, and the 40-item series of Environmental Enrichment Panels for Action Office 2. Girard's unmatched folk art collection adorned Herman Miller buildings, filled their Textiles & Objects Shop in New York, and over 100,000 items made up the famous Girard Foundation. His acclaimed work as an interior designer and architect and his remarkable textiles for Herman Miller make Girard one of the legendary designers of the twentieth century. With over 400 mostly color photographs of his textile and wallpaper designs, all of the EE panels and furniture, plus detailed text, timeline, and an updated value guide, this book is a comprehensive view of Girard's work at Herman Miller, and a must for anyone interested in mid-century design of textiles, interiors, or graphics.

Timor has been a divided island at least since the seventeenth century when Dutch and Portuguese colonial empires competed for its control. Despite this fragmentation, the weaving of cloth has remained intimately linked to the cultural history of the Timorese peoples as a whole. Handwoven cotton garments serve as markers of identity and nurture social relationships when they are exchanged. Women in Timor weave an impressive variety of cloth, routinely combining more weaving techniques than any other region of Southeast Asia. This technical prowess and diversity of design make weaving the most important form of artistic expression in Timor and allow groups as small as individual families to proclaim their unique heritage. Independence for Timor-Leste (East Timor) in 2002 - following invasion by Indonesia and years of violent warfare (1975-1999) - brought with it more stable conditions and improved access for researchers. Textiles of Timor, Island in the Woven Sea brings together for the first time woven works from all parts of the island, demonstrating that the textile arts form a common foundation uniting Timor's diverse peoples despite the painful history of the country's division.

This book unfolds a history of American basketry, from its origins in Native American, immigrant, and slave communities to its contemporary presence in the fine art world. Ten contributing authors from different areas of expertise, plus over 250 photos, insightfully show how baskets convey meaning through the artists' selection of materials; the techniques they use; and the colors, designs, patterns, and textures they employ. Accompanying a museum exhibition of the same name, the book illustrates how the processes of industrialization changed the audiences, materials, and uses for basketry. It also surveys the visual landscape of basketry today; while some contemporary artists seek to maintain and revive traditions practiced for centuries, others combine age-old techniques with nontraditional materials to generate cultural commentary. This comprehensive treasury will be of vital interest to artists, collectors, curators, and historians of American basketry, textiles, and sculpture.

This pictorial survey is arranged visually with a focus on design, particularly color and pattern. The fabric is contemporary, most made of cotton primarily in Africa commercially, and many designs are printed adaptations of traditional African woven textiles. The designs can serve as a reference and inspiration to artists and designers of fabric and fashion. There are complex and abstract patterns, florals, pictorials, animal and figural themes.

Join Stuart Hillard as he expands his expertise from quilt-making to bag-making. Not just a sewing book, Bags for Life teaches you the diversity of bags that you can create once you have learnt the basics. With projects for all levels of crafter, you can work your way up from the simpler tote bag to various, more complicated, projects - such as a toiletry bag or overnight bag With 21 stylish projects for every occasion Stuart provides achievable patterns, fast makes for all abilities and professional looking results. Delving into the anatomy of the bag, take a visual tour of the various parts of different bags, before moving onto the specific details of pockets, zips, piping, binding, straps and handles and even metalwork. Divided into 5 chapters, there is much to choose from - whether you want to make re-usable shopping bags or a crafters bag that holds your yarn, there is something for every crafter out there. Chapters include: A Trip to the Market: trolley bags to shop and go; simple drawstring produce bags; expanding market tote; and a wallet. A Day at the Beach: Convertible tote 'n' towel; splash proof sling and book bag; and multi-purpose hobo perfect for carrying food, blankets and even baby essentials. A Picnic by the Lake: Picnic bag with insulated interior; bottle carrier; and drawstring games and play mat. A Meeting in the City: The ultimate workbag with room for a laptop or tables; the overnight attache; and a don't shoot the messenger bag, an everyday essential. A Weekend in the Country: The ultimate weekend bag with plenty of pockets; an absolute essentials roll-up pouch; and a multi-pocketed zippered toiletry bag. A Great Afternoon In (for every crafter!): Knitting bag to store your current project in style; a sewing machine bag; a project pouch; and a drawstring project bag. With 2 pattern sheets, step-by-step illustrations and lifestyle photography, there really is nothing stopping you from creating a whole host of homemade bags in a fun and sustainable way.

Textiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.

A New York Times best art book of 2022 Traces the history of lace in fashion from its sixteenth-century origins to the present   Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen offers a look at one of the world’s finest collections of historical lace. It traces the development of European lace from its emergence in the sixteenth century to the present, elucidating its important role in fashion. The book explores the longstanding connections between lace and status, addressing styles in lace worn at royal courts, including Habsburg Spain and Bourbon France, as well as lace worn by the elite ruling classes and Indigenous peoples in the Spanish Americas.   Featuring new research, the publication covers a range of topics related to lace production, lace in fashion and portraiture, lace revivals, the mechanization of the lace industries in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and contemporary innovations in lace. With a focus on lace techniques, women lace makers, and lace as a signifier of wealth and power, this richly illustrated book includes wide-ranging contributions by curators and experts from major museums and academic institutions.   Distributed for Bard Graduate Center   Exhibition Schedule:   Bard Graduate Center, New York (September 16, 2022–January 1, 2023)

Paisley textile designs are organized into a sweeping visual survey, from orderly foulard patterns to elaborate borders, from experimental media to ornate florals; this book delves into printed and woven fabrics alike. More than 550 full-color photographs of paisley designs provide an invaluable optical reference of variations that span more than five decades of fabric design, including French and Italian couture fabrics. It is the most comprehensive pictorial guide produced on the subject.