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Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Textile arts
Meticulously woven by hand with wool, silk, and gilt-metal thread,
the tapestry collection of the Sun King, Louis XIV of France,
represents the highest achievements of the art form. Intended to
enhance the king's reputation by visualizing his manifest glory and
to promote the kingdom's nascent mercantile economy, the royal
collection of tapestries included antique and contemporary sets
that followed the designs of the greatest artists of the
Renaissance and Baroque periods, including Raphael, Giulio Romano,
Rubens, Vouet, and Le Brun. Ranging in date from about 1540 to 1715
and coming from weaving workshops across northern Europe, these
remarkable works portray scenes from the bible, history, and
mythology. As treasured textiles, the works were traditionally
displayed in the royal palaces when the court was in residence and
in public on special occasions and feast days. They are still
little known, even in France, as they are mostly reserved for the
decoration of elite state residences and ministerial offices. This
catalogue accompanies an exhibition of fourteen marvelous examples
of the former royal collection that will be displayed exclusively
at the J. Paul Getty Museum at the Getty Center from December 15,
2015, to May 1, 2016. Lavishly illustrated, the volume presents for
the first time in English the latest scholarship of the foremost
authorities working in the field.
Symbol, Pattern and Symmetry: The Cultural Significance of
Structure investigates how pattern and symbol has functioned in
visual arts, exploring how connections and comparisons in
geometrical pattern can be made across different cultures and how
the significance of these designs has influenced craft throughout
history. The book features illustrative examples of symbol and
pattern from a wide range of historical and cultural contexts, from
Byzantine, Persian and Assyrian design, to case studies of Japanese
and Chinese patterns. Looking at each culture's specific craft
style, Hann shows how the visual arts are underpinned with a strict
geometric structure, and argues that understanding these underlying
structures enables us to classify and compare data from across
cultures and historical periods. Richly illustrated with both
colour and black and white images, and with clear, original
commentary, the book enables students, practitioners, teachers and
researchers to explore the historical and cultural significance of
symbol and pattern in craft and design, ultimately displaying how a
geometrical dialogue in design can be established through history
and culture.
Textiles and clothing are interwoven with Islamic culture. In
Islamicate Textiles, readers are taken on a journey from Central
Asia to Tanzania to uncover the central roles that textiles play
within Muslim-majority communities. This thematically arranged book
sheds light on the traditions, rituals and religious practices of
these regions, and the ways in which each one incorporates
materials and clothing. Drawing on examples including Iranian lion
carpets and Arabic keffiyeh, Faegheh Shirazi frames these textiles
and totemic items as important cultural signifiers that, together,
form a dynamic and fascinating material culture. Like a developing
language, this culture expands, bends and develops to suit the
needs of new generations and groups across the world. The political
significance of Islamicate textiles is also explored: Faegheh
Shirazi's writing reveals the fraught relationship between the East
- with its sought-after materials and much-valued textiles - and
the European countries that purchased and repurposed these goods,
and lays bare the historical and contemporary connections between
textiles, colonialism, immigration and economics. Dr Shirazi also
discusses gender and how textiles and clothing are intimately
linked with sexuality and gender identity.
The Japanese artist Koho Mori-Newton is a master when it comes to
handling silk, which he places in an exciting dialogue with
architecture. In this way he creates cult-like spaces which
interact with light in a fasci nating way. In addition to the works
in silk, this volume also shows various graphic work groups from
the last 35 years as well as the Path of Silk, created especially
for no intention. Koho Mori-Newton (*1951) is a master of
intentional lack of intention. His works appear simple, but the
aesthetic which lies behind them is complex. Time and again he
investigates the basis of art itself, questions the concept of the
originality of the artistic creative process and explores the
boundaries of artworks. His oeuvre lures us into a world that
exists beyond the obvious. Path of Silk, a labyrinthine
installation of room-high panels of silk, worked in China ink by
Mori-Newton, presents a fragile interplay of space and light, of
heaviness and lightness. Further areas of focus in his creative
work are repetition and copy, from which his graphic works derive
their own special charm.
Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) was undoubtedly the
most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. Her clothes
and accessories have remained perennially chic, and her legendary
fashion house continues to exert a powerful sway over today's
designers. Jerome Gautier tells the story of Chanel's iconic style
through hundreds of images, many taken by the leading lights of
fashion photography, including Richard Avedon, Gilles Bensimon,
Patrick Demarchelier, Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz, Man Ray,
Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, and Ellen von Unwerth. This innovative
volume pairs classic and contemporary photographs, placing fashion
plates from Chanel's time alongside those by the house's
designer-in-chief, Karl Lagerfeld. For instance, Cecil Beaton's
portrait of Chanel appears alongside Lagerfeld's image of Cate
Blanchett emulating her, and a classic plate by Henry Clarke flanks
an arresting shot by Juergen Teller.
Through these dazzling photographs, "Chanel: The Vocabulary of
Style" identifies key elements that have defined Chanel's style for
generations, such as jersey and tweed, formerly considered menswear
fabrics, and the little black dress, which transformed a hue
previously reserved for mourning into a statement of elegance.
Pearls were her staple, and she often embellished outfits with her
signature camellia. Eleven chapters compare the original forms of
these enduring trademarks with their later expressions over the
years and to the present day, letting the vocabulary of Chanel's
style speak for itself.
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