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Appalachia on the Table - Representing Mountain Food and People (Hardcover)
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Appalachia on the Table - Representing Mountain Food and People (Hardcover)
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When her mother passed along a cookbook made and assembled by her
grandmother, Erica Abrams Locklear thought she knew what to expect.
But rather than finding a homemade cookbook full of apple stack
cake, leather britches, pickled watermelon, or other "traditional"
mountain recipes, Locklear discovered recipes for devil's food cake
with coconut icing, grape catsup, and fig pickles. Some recipes
even relied on food products like Bisquick, Swans Down flour, and
Calumet baking powder. Where, Locklear wondered, did her
Appalachian food script come from? And what implicit judgments had
she made about her grandmother based on the foods she imagined she
would have been interested in cooking? Appalachia on the Table
argues, in part, that since the conception of Appalachia as a
distinctly different region from the rest of the South and the
United States, the foods associated with the region and its people
have often been used to socially categorize and stigmatize mountain
people. Rather than investigate the actual foods consumed in
Appalachia, Locklear instead focuses on the representations of
foods consumed, implied moral judgments about those foods, and how
those judgments shape reader perceptions of those depicted. The
question at the core of Locklear's analysis asks, How did the
dominant culinary narrative of the region come into existence and
what consequences has that narrative had for people in the
mountains?
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