A lively cultural history that explores how candy in America
became food and how food became more like candy
Many adults who wouldn't dream of indulging in a Snickers bar or
jelly beans feel fine snacking on sports bars and giving their
children fruit snacks. For most Americans, candy is enjoyed
guiltily and considered the most unhealthy thing we eat. But why?
Candy accounts for less than ten percent of the added sugar in the
American diet. And at least it's honest about what it is--a
processed food, eaten for pleasure, with no particular nutritional
benefit. What should really worry consumers is the fact that today
every aisle in the supermarket contains highly manipulated products
that have all the qualities of candy. So how did our definitions of
food and candy come to be so muddled?
"Candy" tells the strange, fascinating story of how candy evolved
in America and how it became a scapegoat for all our fears about
the changing nature of food. Samira Kawash takes us from the moral
crusaders at the turn of the century, who blamed candy for
everything from poisoning to alcoholism to sexual depravity; to the
reason why the government made candy an essential part of rations
during World War I (and how the troops came back craving it like
never before); to current worries about hyperactivity, cavities,
and obesity.
"Candy" is an essential, addictive read for anyone who loves
lively cultural history, cares about food, and wouldn't mind
feeling a bit better about eating candy.
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